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Darbee vision darblet - Page 216

post #6451 of 7863
my avr wont comunicate with my tv through arc. has anyone found a way around this yet?
thanks
derek
post #6452 of 7863
It doesn't support ARC, so there is no "way around" it.
post #6453 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek Gosselin View Post

My avr wont comunicate with my tv through arc. has anyone found a way around this yet?

I'm almost positive that the Darbee is not compatible with ARC.
post #6454 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

Please let me know how you would manage to do that.
biggrin.gifeek.gifbiggrin.gif

Should have just said If I returned the Fed Ex package unopened. biggrin.gif It doesn't matter anyway because I'm keeping the one they sent unless it is defective. I finished cleaning and calibrating the Hitachi today with my EyeOne and SprayWay. I finally got a pristine grayscale. And the TV looks unbelievably terrific. I can't believe I was thinking of dumping it for a flat belly HDTV. Maintenance can be a pain at times. But the reward is worth it. It's ready to give Darbee a joyride.
Edited by barrelbelly - 7/4/13 at 9:44pm
post #6455 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by barrelbelly View Post

...
I finally got a pristine grayscale. And the TV looks unbelievably terrific.
...

Yes, a good gamma will improve PQ more than any other single thing, as long as color is reasonably accurate. I'm assuming you meant gamma/grayscale.
post #6456 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by William L Carman View Post

I've had a Darbee Darblet since right after they first were talked about on AVS Forum. I have been extremely pleased with
this purchase. I use it with an Epson 8700 UB projector, and it makes a very nice difference.

Does anyone know what video HDMI switch will work with the Darbee? I have both an HD DVD player from Toshiba, and an
Oppo 95 Blu-ray player, and would prefer to not have to keep manually changing cables when I switch from one player to the
next. This week I went to Fry's Electronics and purchased an HDMI switcher that was HDMI 3.1b. It wouldn't give me a picture when I tried to use my projector. I assume it was because the unit was not 1.4 rated. (They had NO 1.4 units on the
shelf to try.)

Any suggestions for me would surely be appreciated.

My Monoprice HDMI switches have had no problem with the Darblet.
post #6457 of 7863
Aaronwt Thank you for your reply. May I ask you what models of Monoprice HDMI switchers you have
used with the Darbee Darblet with no problems?
post #6458 of 7863
Offhand I'm not sure. But one of them I've used with the Darblet was a 5 port HDMi switcher i got a year or two ago from Monoprice. And the othe one was a four port switcher. But I think that one is even older.

Monoprice has had several models of HDMI switches over the years and they are not all the same. The best bet might be just to get one and try it. And if there are any issues then just return it. Since the only way to know for sure if it will work is to try it. Since setups can be different depending on all the components that will be connected in the HDMi chain.
Edited by aaronwt - 7/8/13 at 12:03pm
post #6459 of 7863
Well...the Darblet 5000 came Saturday. And to my surprise...Solid Signal had switched me into a brand new unit for the opened box price! I plopped it inline between my Monoprice 4x2 Matrix switcher and Hitachi 65F59. The picture quality improved immediately and dramatically from all source devices (Blu-Ray...HD-DVD...FIOS...Xbox 360). I was very impressed. And my initial reaction was Superb! There was noticeable clarity and depth of images imparted from all sources without any noticeable artifacts. I was actually amazed by how much the Darblet improved the HD picture over FIOS. I had read in this thread, that it was not as dramatic with Cable/SAT. That was not true in my case.

Here are some of the tangible things I observed...that actually stunned me. On the Disney WOW "Visions" disk, the picture became so clear and deep that I actually saw things that were unobservable before. For example...during the "Cloud" sequence...There was a brief flash midway through the filming where I recognized several birds that flew before the cameras, that were set for time lapse photography. It shocked me because I had not seen the birds or that happen before. I reversed back to the scene and played it with Darbee and without. With Darbee it was clear as glass and looked unintended. Without Darbee...the birds vanished on my display. There were several other time lapse "ghost images" in different sequences that became just as noticeable. I was super impressed. On the HD-DVD video essentials disk...new smoke plumes emerged arouind the shuttle in that demo. The Ferris wheel colors became vibrant and shiny as opposed to just Blah. There were too many other noticeable improvements in that demanding disk to mention here. My wife...who doesn't care about my video toys at all...noticed the difference immediately. And proclaimed the Darbee picture better...and no contest.

With that said...I got some excellent calibration tips from Lastbutnotleast via PM. And continued to tweak the Hitachi for optimal results. Better effort in equals better results out with the Darblet. Every change I made improved the PQ. And when Darbee was turned on...PQ became unmatched IMO. I'm sure glad I didn't spring for that Plasma now. The Hitachi/Darblet combo is nothing short of AWESOME! I'm now going to shift my focus to color decoding tweaks...to dail the Hitachi in even more. This device has reminded me why I loved RPCRT in the first place. It is so adjustable. And can be super customized. The Darblet really helps that technology reach its full potential. I'll keep everyone posted as I get even more familiar with the Darblet.
post #6460 of 7863

Well, here it comes:

"I told you so."

wink.gif

Glad you're as happy as I knew you'd be.

Keep me posted.

Michael

post #6461 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

Well, here it comes:
"I told you so."
wink.gif
Glad you're as happy as I knew you'd be.
Keep me posted.
Michael

ROFLMAO! biggrin.gif Michael...are you mildly suggesting I am seeing a few doppelgangers?...which is quite possible. smile.gif But all kidding aside...so far this thing is amazing. I am still fascinated by how I missed the birds before in the Vision disk. You really have to strain to catch them without the Darblet because they blur through so fast in lapsed time. But with Darbee, the clarity just pops them out in detail at you. And I saw more masked details than just the birds for the first time in those calibration disks. And maybe that's the whole point with this intriguing device. It pulls all of the details out of the blurred images in film, games, slideshows and other HD visual sources.

I got your PM on the blue DCAM button in the Hitachi. I'll take one last look. But I swear, it's either not there...or "someone ate the bones". Maybe it's in the rear of the 65F59...which would be really stupid. If I can't find it this time I'm going to take a picture of the front of the dang thing and send it to you.

EDIT:
I found the blue button. DOH! It was just where you pictured it. But absolutely buried behind a wall of cables.
Edited by barrelbelly - 7/9/13 at 5:03pm
post #6462 of 7863
barrelbelly,
'I told you so' also.... biggrin.gif

Glad you love this wonderful device, and it NEVER gets 'old'....AND the fact you can tweak it to your own tastes wink.gif
post #6463 of 7863
Hey the talk about the length of HDMI cables, is it recommended that you use 5' plus for each and every HDMI run?

Reason I ask is that (best case scenario) if I run 5 feet from the source to a switcher + 5 feet from the switcher to the Darbee + 5 feet from the Darbee to the display then I'm already at 15 feet. Now factor in that I can't do that as my display is much further than 5 feet from all the sources. Being that HDMI can give issues over 12 feet..... confused.gif

I would much rather use a 1 footer from the switcher to the Darbee - setting the Darbee on the switcher.

or

a one footer from the Darbee to the projector - mounting the Darbee on the ceiling.
post #6464 of 7863
^^^^

I would not run 1 foot cables....How long is your run from the darblet to the display? The reason I ask is that I have a 45 foot 'redmere' monoprice cable from darblet to the projector with zero issues. The problems that people were really dealing with were the 'shorter than 3 feet' scenerios. Whether to put the darblet next to the receiver OR display: both have been succesful. Hope that helps...
post #6465 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by mp06011999 View Post

Hey the talk about the length of HDMI cables, is it recommended that you use 5' plus for each and every HDMI run?

Reason I ask is that (best case scenario) if I run 5 feet from the source to a switcher + 5 feet from the switcher to the Darbee + 5 feet from the Darbee to the display then I'm already at 15 feet. Now factor in that I can't do that as my display is much further than 5 feet from all the sources. Being that HDMI can give issues over 12 feet..... confused.gif

I would much rather use a 1 footer from the switcher to the Darbee - setting the Darbee on the switcher.

or

a one footer from the Darbee to the projector - mounting the Darbee on the ceiling.

+1 to what KBMAN said. And the runs between devices are not cumulative because each device has its own HDMI tranceiver, so the signal gets cleaned up and re broadcast to nominal specs.
post #6466 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by KBMAN View Post

^^^^
The reason I ask is that I have a 45 foot 'redmere' monoprice cable from darblet to the projector with zero issues.

+2 on KBMAN and erkq.

Given a choice, I really don't want the Darblet sitting on the pj, with extra cable coiling around the mount. I'd like to blame that on concern over interfering with a fan port or something, but mostly I just don't want to see it there. What the Darblet does is gorgeous, but the device itself is not.

Humbland, for example, didn't have the option of changing his HDMI run without a huge expense, since it was already installed in-wall. He and others have made the Darblet at the projector installation work fine. I'd way rather do that than go without.
post #6467 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post

+1 to what KBMAN said. And the runs between devices are not cumulative because each device has its own HDMI tranceiver, so the signal gets cleaned up and re broadcast to nominal specs.

Well that makes more sense. I have read about there being problems with syncing on runs shorter than 6 feet, but then also read (and experienced) that runs over 12 can pose an issue. So I thought, okay, you must run at least 6 foot cables, but try to stay under 12 feet. Didn't make sense. Thanx.

So 5 or 6 footers between devices, even if the total ends up being 30 feet is more likely to work better than adding anything shorter than 6 feet to the mix, correct?

BTW, I have 4 feet of HDMI from source to switcher and then 16 feet to display. Adding in the Darbee, I wanted to not introduce more problems by increasing the total run. I've had this set up for 4 years (minus the Darbee) and initially had issues with sparklies and droputs. Oddly, the solution then was switching what inputs I used for what sources on the switcher.

Anyhow, having PTSD thinking about going through all that (again) now that everything is strapped down.....
post #6468 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by mogrub View Post

+2 on KBMAN and erkq.

Given a choice, I really don't want the Darblet sitting on the pj, with extra cable coiling around the mount. I'd like to blame that on concern over interfering with a fan port or something, but mostly I just don't want to see it there....

I actually prefer to put the Darblet on the ceiling, but that's because I did my theater room like a bar where everything is painted black and I have sound baffles and dj lights hanging from the ceiling. I can mount the Darblet onto one of those sound baffles and have it aimed down so that the remote will hit it. No one will even see it and much easier than placing it with all the other devices with the way the wire runs in one side and out the other. That really was a bad idea in design imho.
post #6469 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by mogrub View Post

+2 on KBMAN and erkq.

Given a choice, I really don't want the Darblet sitting on the pj, with extra cable coiling around the mount. I'd like to blame that on concern over interfering with a fan port or something, but mostly I just don't want to see it there. What the Darblet does is gorgeous, but the device itself is not.

Humbland, for example, didn't have the option of changing his HDMI run without a huge expense, since it was already installed in-wall. He and others have made the Darblet at the projector installation work fine. I'd way rather do that than go without.

It really is not a big deal to have it on the top of the PJ. In our set up it is virtually invisible because of the high ceiling mount. I turned off the display LEDs as they lit up the night and called attention to it. It's kind of a drag to have to get up and point the remote a certain way to change settings. I can't get an easy line of site from the seating area. Has anyone experimented with bouncing the remote signal off of the projector screen? I've thought about it, but would need to get a 12 foot ladder and fool around to see if there is a location on top of the projector that the reflected signal can reach.
The only down side of the device that I can "see" (Darbee humor) biggrin.gif is the tendency to make a poor image look worse. We are watching "Step up 2 the Streets" (great dancing and sound). The Bluray transfer is a bit "grainy" and the Darbee accentuates that. I could try turning it down from 55%, but so far my use has been "set and forget". With a good HD transfer, it looks fabulous...
post #6470 of 7863
Question, and I'm sure the answer is here somewhere but I just hooked it all up and have to run out, anyway how do I clear the Darbee bug from the lower right hand of the display?

Thanks
post #6471 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

Has anyone experimented with bouncing the remote signal off of the projector screen? ..

Yes that's how mine is setup. I have it atop the curtain pelmet on the back wall. The reflected infrared signal off the screen actually works better than the projectors reflected signal.
post #6472 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by keenan View Post

Question, and I'm sure the answer is here somewhere but I just hooked it all up and have to run out, anyway how do I clear the Darbee bug from the lower right hand of the display?

Thanks

Go into the menu and there will be an option to rid it off the screen.
post #6473 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy4daisy View Post

Go into the menu and there will be an option to rid it off the screen.
Ah, thank you very much, I was using the Menu button as the Select button, hence my confusion! smile.gif
post #6474 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by mp06011999 View Post

Well that makes more sense. I have read about there being problems with syncing on runs shorter than 6 feet, but then also read (and experienced) that runs over 12 can pose an issue. So I thought, okay, you must run at least 6 foot cables, but try to stay under 12 feet. Didn't make sense. Thanx.

So 5 or 6 footers between devices, even if the total ends up being 30 feet is more likely to work better than adding anything shorter than 6 feet to the mix, correct?

BTW, I have 4 feet of HDMI from source to switcher and then 16 feet to display. Adding in the Darbee, I wanted to not introduce more problems by increasing the total run. I've had this set up for 4 years (minus the Darbee) and initially had issues with sparklies and droputs. Oddly, the solution then was switching what inputs I used for what sources on the switcher.

Anyhow, having PTSD thinking about going through all that (again) now that everything is strapped down.....

I run a 12 foot HDMI 1.4 from the Monoprice switcher. And an 8 foot monster cable HDMI 1.3 from the Darblet to the RP- HDTV. I used to have a terrible problem with sparklies with the HDMI 1.4 directly from the FIOS box. But they have completely disappeared with my current setup. And the long HDMI cable runs work perfectly for my system. I am truly getting a fabulous and mesmerizing picture from all sources. It's like a 3D dimension has been placed within the screen. Everything inxcreen looks much more 3 dimensional and lifelike. I can't take my eyes off of the Science channel "Universe" series. It looks spectacular with the Darblet. You were right DarbeeDr and KBMAN. I am impressed to the max. And my wife is too!
post #6475 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by barrelbelly View Post

I am impressed to the max. And my wife is too!
Anything that passes the Wife/GF test pretty much speaks for itself. ✌
post #6476 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by barrelbelly View Post

...
I am impressed to the max. And my wife is too!
Quote:
Originally Posted by mogrub View Post

Anything that passes the Wife/GF test pretty much speaks for itself. ✌

My wife doesn't even know I added anything. But all of a sudden she likes watching from the 1sw front row instead of the 1.6sw second row. She thinks I've learned how to calibrate better with my CalMAN/Lumagen/C6 combo... something she was very impressed with also. I go ahead and let her think that.
post #6477 of 7863
I have a JVC HD350 projector. I use it for blu rays and HD sports.
Will the Darbee be a decent upgrade to the picture?
Also have an Optoma for 3d.
Is it worth the $320?
post #6478 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by mp06011999 View Post

Well that makes more sense. I have read about there being problems with syncing on runs shorter than 6 feet, but then also read (and experienced) that runs over 12 can pose an issue. So I thought, okay, you must run at least 6 foot cables, but try to stay under 12 feet. Didn't make sense. Thanx.

So 5 or 6 footers between devices, even if the total ends up being 30 feet is more likely to work better than adding anything shorter than 6 feet to the mix, correct?

BTW, I have 4 feet of HDMI from source to switcher and then 16 feet to display. Adding in the Darbee, I wanted to not introduce more problems by increasing the total run. I've had this set up for 4 years (minus the Darbee) and initially had issues with sparklies and droputs. Oddly, the solution then was switching what inputs I used for what sources on the switcher.

Anyhow, having PTSD thinking about going through all that (again) now that everything is strapped down.....

Not all cables are created equal, I suppose. I use Blue Jeans Cable Belden Series HDMI cables exclusively, and have many shorter than six feet in my complex HDMI setup. The Darblets sync just fine.

Mark
post #6479 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by mintchris View Post

I have a JVC HD350 projector. I use it for blu rays and HD sports. Will the Darbee be a decent upgrade to the picture? Also have an Optoma for 3d.
Is it worth the $320?

There is almost nobody running a Darblet with their projector on this thread that wouldn't answer both of your questions with Yes.

Yes, I think it will improve your image, and yes I think it is worth every penny.
post #6480 of 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by mintchris View Post

I have a JVC HD350 projector. I use it for blu rays and HD sports.
Will the Darbee be a decent upgrade to the picture?
Also have an Optoma for 3d.
Is it worth the $320?

I have a BenQ W7000 projector with a Darbee in the mix. I absolutely love it and am glad I made the investment. Just know that going into it, make sure your expectations are realistic. Will it make the picture quality go from good to amazing? No. It's actually a subtle improvement to the contrast and adds more detail and definition to the picture. It's not a huge jump from say DVD to Blu-ray. It's almost like comparing 720p to 1080p. Some people say they notice a difference and some don't. Whether its worth the $320 can only be decided by you. Good luck in your decision!
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