Official 2012 Sharp LC-XXLE640U/XXC6400U - Page 6

1.) The note that is highlighted in the user manual is refering to the optical output diagram not the analog connection.
2.) Are you sure your receiver in not converting 2 channel PCM into 5.1 via Dolby Pro Logic?

So you're saying that you a) connected the TV to a hard wire and b) did a hard reset and it started connecting to Netflix more reliably... is that correct?

I absolutely hate this TV because of the Netflix issues. Of the times I want to watch Netflix on it, I'd say I get it to work about 20% of the time. If a hard reset would fix that (I don't even know how to do that) then I'm all for it, I just want to hear someone say that it's worth losing all my settings before I try.

you sound too desperate about Netflix. If you have so many issues with it then get yourself a WD TV Live streaming media player. I have one and it is great, much better then any smart TV on the market. You can get the player for around $50-60 if you shop around. http://wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=330

I have the LC60LE640U and think i have clouding, only problem is i have no idea if what i'm seeing is clouding. I noticed i have bluish patches when the screen is completely black. Is this what is referred to as clouding? I'll take some pictures when i get home and try to post them, but i juts need to know what should i look for in terms of clouding and how concerned should i be. I bought this set two weeks ago, so does clouding go away after a while or will it get worse?

This allowed me to get Dolby Digital to my AVR (Dennon 2113) from the TV Audio out of my 70LE640U (I'm assuming your setup is the same). It worked for both optical cable and ARC depending on the AVR settings. I only tested for Smart Apps (Vudu).

Short version: Set the TV input to TV (analog) before entering "Audio Setup".

Long Version: On the remote, choose "INPUT", on the screen choose "TV" (I'm not hooked up to analog TV so I get snow after this step). Next, on the remote choose "MENU", on the screen choose "System Options", choose "Input Terminal Settings", choose " Audio Setup", choose "Dolby Digital".

Yes, you have to be on an input mode most don't use and chose "Input Settings" to set the output -intuitive user interface award winner!

I had to do a netflix reset today

What mode and settings do most people enjoy their Sharp tv to be in? I like bright colors and sharp picture and can't seem to get it just right. I see references to DaGamePimp's picture calibration in the Official Sharp 60" AQUOS LC-60LE632U Owners Thread but have no idea why there are 3 or 4 completely different Game and Movie settings posted and what 35, 40, 50 ftl means. I sit about 13 ft from the tv in a mostly dark room. Any suggestions? thx

I purchased the 52" 640U a few weeks ago from BestBuy. Here is what I have noticed so far. The overall color and brightness/contrast is very good. The side edges are definitely brighter than the rest of the screen due to the edge lit nature of the TV. There is some noticeable clouding when an all black image is on the screen, but it is not noticeable otherwise. But most offensive of all is the image processing. The only AV setting I can stand to watch is GAME mode. I used Jason's calibration settings and the colors look correct now (stock GAME mode is definitely off color-wise) and there is no hint of motion smoothing. But any other setting, including Movie mode with all motion stuff turned off, still has some smoothing or SOE and I can't stand that.

I am seriously thinking about trying a Plasma instead. I considered it before buying this TV and ruled it out as being too high maintenance, but I think the overall increase in image quality would be worth it. The Panasonic ST50 series is on sale now and is a good deal, about the same price for a given screen size as the Sharp 640 series.

Justmtnb44
I'm also looking at the ST50, just trying to figure out about the glare though. That's my biggest issue at the moment. The 640U is a solid TV, but the ST50 seems to be blowing away everything at the moment

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Perhaps your TV isn't the problem; it could instead be related to the "Client Lease Time" setting on your router. Client lease time refers to how long a computer will "lease" an IP address and other TCP/IP configuration information from your router. If you were to set it to, say, thirty minutes, your computer would ask the router every thirty minutes for a new DHCP lease. The router would then hand out a renewed lease to the computer for the same length of time. Depending upon the router, the computer might also get a different IP address. After the new IP is handed out, you may be disconnect from your Netflix as of this result.

What can you do in this situation? There are a few different things you can try. This has everything to do with your router's DHCP server settings. So, you'll have to log into your router and find the DHCP page. Look for a field that says something like: "Client Lease Time" fill it to it's maximum setting (check you user's manual) or fill in with a bunch of nines, like: 999999. On my router this would reserve the Lease Time to about 1,736 days... after 1736 days the IP would change and I have to do a hard reset at that time.

A better approach would be to set up your device (Sharp TV) to a static address outside of your DHCP server. Most Linksys router's default their DHCP to automatically assigns IP addresses between 198.162.1.100 to 192.162.1.149 ( 50 devices are assigned automatically). You want to assign your Sharp TV outside this DHCP IP range... the result of doing this will create a STATIC address that will never change so that your Netflix won't be cut off. To do this look up a feature in your wireless router called DHCP Reservations. It allows you to associate the MAC address of your Sharp TV, with a STATIC address that never changes.

This might possibly be the solution to your problem... Good luck!

Just picked up a LC-70C6400U and unboxed it and plugged it in to test things out before we mount it - and there's no picture...

the power LED flashes 5 times and then 2 times - I tried unplugging, holding the power button and plugging in and releasing the power button after 10 seconds to reset the TV - but still the same results.
It's the weekend, so Sharp support is offline - anyone run into this before? we already tossed the box and all packaging!

why are you waiting for Sharp support? Get it replaced ASAP.

got my LC-70C6400U from costco yesterday

color and all seems great, on the bottom edge, i have 2 brighter spots that are noticeable every now and then, right on the edge

had a problem flashing the firmware, first time it froze at 67%, worked the 2nd time around.

got it wall mounted, found a old monoprice mount specced for 125lbs and 60" screens and it seemed to hold fine, i pray that it stays, will probably get myself a new mount eventually, and maybe trade this back into costco if they get a 80" model back.

firmware update released today. is anyone brave enough to try first?

For all you LC-60LE640U owners there is a new firmware for the TV out today.

This firmware improves the performance of DLNA playback, as well as contains improvements to the menu and Demo mode settings

This firmware also contains all previous fixes and enhancements.

Version: 217U1205161

Date: 7/30/2012

Just updated it noticed a new option in the picture settings called Black Level, unfortunately though it seems to be grayed out.

I just updated to it, everything seems fine don't notice any differences apart from the new Black Level option that I can't actually pick.

Sorry posted this as a new thread:

I just purchased this set (60LE640U) and the tv speaker volume is very low; I am hearing impaired in most of the higher frequency ranges and thus don't desire an AV setup. Does anyone have any suggestions for wireless headphones on this tv?
Has anyone else noticed the low volume on this set or should I call Best Buy service or exchange the set. Love it otherwise, except the the Netflix log out issue also. Hope the post above will correct that.

TV seems fine to me volume wise, I use the dialog enhance and the surround off and have it at about 25 for normal watching.

called for service, hopefully later this week... geez

Just picked this up at Best Buy yesterday, haven’t had a chance to do much with it as far as calibration yet but have no beefs so far. I really like that its WiFi ready and DLNA works great. The matt screen does make the picture look a little dull compared to the LN46B640 Sammy its replacing but glare is greatly reduced. Like Samsung, if you register Sharp will extend the warranty by three months. I really like the HDMI Link feature that allows the Sharps remote to control my PS3 and the Dish ViP722.
8/13/12- update, I do have some flash-lighting in the left hand side very similar to the Sammy LN46B640 it’s replacing (only that was on the right). I have my TV wall mounted and noticed when I went to screw one of the bolts in that hold the brackets on it seemed tight as it bottomed out. I wonder if it’s pushing on one side of the panel and causing it to warp just enough to allow the bleed through?
Edited by SCHLENKER - 8/13/12 at 6:14pm

Even my friends need it on 37 or so to reach normal volume level. That is thru Directv. Panny Blu ray about 32.

25 is on the loud side for me when watching the built in Netflix or Youtube app. Might be your Direct TV that needs turning up?

For me built in speaker volume is OK but sound itself way too "flat". I have no illusions and never expected good sound out of this TV. Bought a Sony soundbar with a sub woofer and can't be happier.

Which Sony did you buy?

I didn't want to spend a lot of money because sky is the limit once you start looking at sound options. I knew from the start that any flat panel TV speakers would provide only mediocre sound. I picked up used HT-CT 350 off craigslist and hooked it up by optical cable from the TV. I'd say any sony soundbar HT-CT 150 or higher should be fine. There are plenty of other good soundbar choices on the market that will not break the bank.

I bought this TV from Costco a couple of weeks ago, and have been happy with it so far, except for the DNLA client. I can play my media just fine, but have big issues when I try to fast forward, rewind or pause and stop. Some of the issues I have is when I fast forward, the media will not restart playing so I will need to back out and start over at the beginning. Hitting rewind never works as expected, and behavior sometimes varies, such as jumping to the end of the media stream. Pause works, but when I hit play again, I always jump forward in the stream, sometimes as much as 10 minutes, sometime the media will not start again.

Is anyone else having issues? I have been using Serviio as my DNLA Server, is there a better choice?

I appreciate any suggestions.

I was hoping the firmware update might actually fix the motion enhancement... ii didn't. I just watched a little olympic soccer and still see motion judder. Golf is the worst offender, as the ball often has two ghosts while it's in flight It's really laughable that a manufacturer would include a feature like this and the area in which it's supposed demonstrate its worth is where it fails worse than no enhancement at all!!?

I mostly have a sense of buyer's remorse with this set. There are times when I'm impressed with it in more static programming, but it is easily outperformed by my Toshiba Regza LCD (2009 vintage) that I moved into my rec room to make room for this one. If I had it to do over again, I would buy another Toshiba flourescent LCD, but I would have had to go with a 65" to upgrade the size from the 55". My wall space wouldn't accommodate it, so I ruled it out. I guess I can console myself with the fact that it is using less than half the power of the Toshiba...

I am also using Serviio and have no issues playing back files, I find that only MKV files have an issue with fast forward and rewind on the TV. I usually just convert them to mp4 with Handbrake and they play fine from that point.

This set does a commendable job in this department. For a set that tends to wash out just a bit in bright scenes, it does a good job in distinguishing objects in dark scenes. It delivers surprisingly pure black levels...

First post; thanks in advance! Recently got the 60LE640u and like it a lot, my first big screen TV.

My questions are about articulated wall mounting. I have to use this because the wall has a 4" well, as in the picture below.

The manual says that you have to use their branded mount, which isn't articulated. Do people follow this, or is it hogwash so they don't get sued?

Second, if we can use other articulated mounts, do we have to follow the weight requirements of the mount, or the size requirements? I ask because this is a lot lighter than many 60" or even 50" tvs.

So, if I get a Sanus mount for $100 that is rated for 26"-47", with 400mm x 400mm VESA, but for 60 lbs (the 640u is 56.2 lbs w/out stand) will that work, or do I have to spend the extra $100 for the ones rated for 60"?

On Best Buy, someone claiming to be "Sharp Advisor" says "The distance between the mounting holes is 15-3/4”. The VESA mounting standard is 400mm x 400mm and the weight is 56.2 lbs./25.5 kg. As long as your mount will fit the VESA standard and the weight of the television, it should work with the television."

Someone made the point that with an articulated mount it isn't just the weight, but the fact that swinging it will exert a lot more pressure because the lever is longer. Is this a worry?

What do you all use? Do you think I can use the 26-47" mount? Thanks!

Thanks again!