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Official 2012 Sharp LC-XXLE640U/XXC6400U - Page 17

post #481 of 1111
11/29/12 at 7:09am
I've only had the set 6 days and haven't noticed it until now.
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post #482 of 1111
11/29/12 at 7:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by vonxn View Post

I've only had the set 6 days and haven't noticed it until now.

what is the latest you can return the TV? Give it at list a couple of weeks and see if it makes any difference.
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post #483 of 1111
11/29/12 at 9:35am
yea the surfing the net on ps3 is better than the web on the sharp. to be honest. even the bluray playback on the ps3 is better than other standalones... but for others in the household using the a simple bluray player to watch a movie is easier to navigate than the playstation homescreen/gamepad. might as well have em all hooked up.. i also don't want the ps3 to get overused for just movie playback.. dont want some yellow light of death.
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post #484 of 1111
11/29/12 at 9:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverfox1 View Post

IMO if folks dont mind using their Amplifier remote it is best to use a Toslink optical audio cable directly out from the back of the client provider cable box to the Amp. I did this in the past and received Dolby DTS or whatever was being broadcast correctly and my Onkyo processed it just fine. If not as KryptoNyte states you will get only 2 ch. stereo PCM coming out of the Sharp TV. Note that within the menu tabs of your client provider cable box using its remote you will find a selection under options/audio to either select " PCM or Bitstream" or " Stereo or Surround " . I have ATT Uverse.
Regards, wink.gif



So with a sharp soundbar that has dolby / dts capabilities ... with 2 hdmi and 1 optical in, and one hdmi out ... how would i connect my ps3, cable box, and bluray all together to get surround sound from soundbar while watching tv.
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post #485 of 1111
11/29/12 at 11:36am
hmm, maybe I should try aquos advantage live help.. sharp support emailed some help but nothing new I haven't tried.


On page E9 of the user manual of soundbar (Sharp soundbar ht-sb60) it shows that I should connect my bluray player and cable box via hdmi to the soundbar and conncect the soundbar to the TV via HDMI.

According to the manual diagram on pg E9, it shows a single HDMI will carry both video and audio signals from soundbar to TV via HDMI 1 with TV arc. I tried this however i noticed only audio from soundbar but no picture displayed on TV.

Page E5 of the manual also shows that the Sharp soundbar will display DTS or Dolby based on the signal it recieves. I have tried playing bluray with dolby / DTS but the logos have not light up on the soundbar display as mentioned in the manual. (pg E5 , pg E13).

strangely Sharp support told me to connect everything to tv and tv out to soundbar... but the sharp user manual states to connect everything to soundbar and hdmi out to TV with tv arc.

strange i figure more ppl would have had similar issues.
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post #486 of 1111
11/29/12 at 1:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by OnlookerDelay View Post

ME actually makes the motion blur worse in terms of the ball ghosting and blurring on my set. It helps with what I'd describe as motion judder with the players though. I have to pick my poison as to which I'd rather see, although I have learned that a broacast OTA DTV signal pretty much eliminates most of the judder with motion enhancement off..

I turned ME off and I didn't notice any improvement in football or basketball blur. Maybe I'm just expecting too much from this set.
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post #487 of 1111
11/29/12 at 1:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr266 View Post

since this subject keeps coming up, can people that are having motion problems please post what settings you've tried, and what cable provider you have. Heck, it might even be helpful if you give your definition of how severe the blur is. I'm guessing we're going
to see a trend here.

I have a Dish Network VIP722 -->hdmi --> TV. I consider 'blur' to where I can't clearly see the outline of the object from my normal viewing distance of 10 feet.

I'm using the settings from the CNet forum here. I'm starting in 'user1' mode and this person starts in 'Movie' mode, that's the only difference.
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post #488 of 1111
11/29/12 at 2:22pm
Have you experimented with Game mode yet? You may need to tweak the other settings while in there but I'd sure like to hear how the blur is when you do.
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post #489 of 1111
11/29/12 at 6:21pm
For anyone with the 60';

Does it take a couple of seconds for your TV to change channels when switching form channels that are broadcast in 1080 to channels that are broadcast in 720?

Both This Sharp AND my older Toshiba (55) do the same 3 to 4 second pause when changing channels with different signals. I believe it is my older Onkyo receiver that the signal is processed through - not the TVs, because they both do it. If you guys can change ALL channels with no hesitation, Ill assume its my receiver and will buy a new one. The Tosiba was REAL bad. Prol a 5 to 6 second lag between different channel changes. Just wondering if anyone else experiences this.


Btw: from 720 broadcast channels to 720, or from 1080 to 1080, there is no lag.
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post #490 of 1111
11/30/12 at 1:37am
So I picked up a LC-60LE640U at Target today for my new basement family room. I was torn between a Panasonic ST50 and an LCD, but since this is in a brighter room (it's a walk-out basement with full windows on one wall) and it's going to be used for a lot of gaming, I decided the LCD was the better way to go.

Overall I am happy with this set. The initial picture in Standard mode, with just film processing turned off to get rid of SOE, was already pretty impressive, certainly OK for watching during the day. This evening I adjusted it using CNET's settings, and the picture on Blu-Rays is just outstanding. I have Tron Legacy playing on it right now and it's frankly breathtaking. Compared to my 7 year old Panasonic TH-42PX50U in the living room, the crispness and detail is far superior.

The one downside is the uniformity issue. Most of the screen is not bad at all; if I look at it between inputs, some areas show a little bit of unevenness but nothing you would ever notice when something is playing. But there is one area about 1/4 of the way from the left edge of the screen that stands out, it looks kind of like a blob divided into 4 pie slices. This area is noticeable when the room is dark, if you look for it during dark scenes or sometimes when the camera pans in a movie. I kind of freaked out when I first noticed it -- it is really not visible when the lights are on in the room, so I didn't see it until later this evening. I was disappointed by this, since my old plasma didn't exhibit anything like this. But having read more about it, it seems that this is pretty hard to avoid with this type of TV. At this point I think I'll just live with it, the overall picture quality pretty much outweighs this one flaw.

I do have one question: does ARC work with the apps on the TV? I have the TV connected via HDMI 1 to a Denon AVR-1913 receiver that also supports ARC. However, when I run Netflix on the TV and set the Denon's input to TV, no sound is output from the speakers. It's not really a big deal since the Blu-Ray player I have also has Netflix and a ton of other internet video apps besides, but I'd just as soon have everything working like it is supposed to.
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post #491 of 1111
11/30/12 at 6:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr266 View Post

Have you experimented with Game mode yet? You may need to tweak the other settings while in there but I'd sure like to hear how the blur is when you do.
I haven't tried that yet. I'll be doing some PQ experimentation this weekend.
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post #492 of 1111
11/30/12 at 7:07am
I'm real curious if you'll still have blur when you do try game mode. Not that it's scientific, but it seems like owners that also use Dish, Comcast, Time Warner, and some of the smaller companies have more problems with blur than Verizon, ATT ,and Direct TV. I'm just trying to figure out if that's really true by asking everyone their settings and providers. Please let us know how it's going after you experiment.
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post #493 of 1111
11/30/12 at 8:17am
In general, I get great PQ from Dish. The images on my 46-inch Sony is great. This could just be a "bigger screen makes imperfections more noticeable" type of thing.
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post #494 of 1111
11/30/12 at 11:06am
I know i asked this before but want to make sure.

Return my LC-70LE600U for LC-70LE640U

Is it worth it if i do not use internet apps?

Is the picture going to look the same?

Since i live on the 3rd floor and packing it up to return it to the store is going to suck... Also cost me 200 more bucks.

Would appreciate some input.

Thanks guys!!
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post #495 of 1111
11/30/12 at 3:32pm
Finally got around to getting a blu ray player and setting it up. Tried both a standard dvd which gets upconverted and a blu ray, and I must say that both looked great on this display but the blu ray was just out of this world on the Sharp. I just used the previously stated Standard settings and they looked great. I'm going to try and use the posted movie settings later tonight to see if there's much of a difference.
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post #496 of 1111
11/30/12 at 4:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaid View Post

So I picked up a LC-60LE640U at Target today for my new basement family room. I was torn between a Panasonic ST50 and an LCD, but since this is in a brighter room (it's a walk-out basement with full windows on one wall) and it's going to be used for a lot of gaming, I decided the LCD was the better way to go.
Overall I am happy with this set. The initial picture in Standard mode, with just film processing turned off to get rid of SOE, was already pretty impressive, certainly OK for watching during the day. This evening I adjusted it using CNET's settings, and the picture on Blu-Rays is just outstanding. I have Tron Legacy playing on it right now and it's frankly breathtaking. Compared to my 7 year old Panasonic TH-42PX50U in the living room, the crispness and detail is far superior.
The one downside is the uniformity issue. Most of the screen is not bad at all; if I look at it between inputs, some areas show a little bit of unevenness but nothing you would ever notice when something is playing. But there is one area about 1/4 of the way from the left edge of the screen that stands out, it looks kind of like a blob divided into 4 pie slices. This area is noticeable when the room is dark, if you look for it during dark scenes or sometimes when the camera pans in a movie. I kind of freaked out when I first noticed it -- it is really not visible when the lights are on in the room, so I didn't see it until later this evening. I was disappointed by this, since my old plasma didn't exhibit anything like this. But having read more about it, it seems that this is pretty hard to avoid with this type of TV. At this point I think I'll just live with it, the overall picture quality pretty much outweighs this one flaw.
I do have one question: does ARC work with the apps on the TV? I have the TV connected via HDMI 1 to a Denon AVR-1913 receiver that also supports ARC. However, when I run Netflix on the TV and set the Denon's input to TV, no sound is output from the speakers. It's not really a big deal since the Blu-Ray player I have also has Netflix and a ton of other internet video apps besides, but I'd just as soon have everything working like it is supposed to.

The ARC on my Sony 520 reciver works with netflix; have optical out from tv to reciever.
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post #497 of 1111
11/30/12 at 4:13pm
I have no blur only judder; with directv but only with the compressed broadcasts.
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post #498 of 1111
11/30/12 at 4:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverfox1 View Post

IMO if folks dont mind using their Amplifier remote it is best to use a Toslink optical audio cable directly out from the back of the client provider cable box to the Amp. I did this in the past and received Dolby DTS or whatever was being broadcast correctly and my Onkyo processed it just fine. If not as KryptoNyte states you will get only 2 ch. stereo PCM coming out of the Sharp TV. Note that within the menu tabs of your client provider cable box using its remote you will find a selection under options/audio to either select " PCM or Bitstream" or " Stereo or Surround " . I have ATT Uverse.
Regards, wink.gif

I was actually using the solution you mention, optical out of the actual source, optical into my older receiver, to pass bitstream Dolby Digital AC3 or DTS directly, but as I mentioned earlier in the thread, there are problems with this setup. If you have any post-processing enabled on the television, and probably to a lesser degree if you don't, you will find that the audio plays about 80 to 120 miliseconds ahead of the video on the television. This doesn't seem like much delay, but it is extremely annoying. I was told on another forum that my optical cables were old fashioned, so I started to investigate other options.

The only solution I was able to find to remedy the video delay was to find an HDMI based receiver. So I bought a very cheap Yamaha that has 4 or 5 HDMI inputs, has one single ARC compatible HDMI output to the TV, and most importantly, has the ability to allow me to dial in a delay on the audio signal to try and fix Sharp's audio sync problem.

Now, had Sharp not made the blunder of the decade by releasing a beautiful 70" television that did not allow for bitstream passthrough of HDMI input source audio via the optical out on the television, we wouldn't have this serious issue on our hands. It's worth noting that if you allow the TV's internal tuner to tune over the air HD broadcasts available in your location, or if you plug a USB drive into the TV with mp4 or mkv DTS files on them, it WILL in fact pass the bitstream audio correctly, so one wonders if there is a software fix that could be applied to the TV via firmware update to resolve this Sharp blunder.
Edited by KryptoNyte - 11/30/12 at 4:31pm
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post #499 of 1111
11/30/12 at 5:16pm
KryptoNyte, which Yamaha did you get? I may need to upgrade my old receiver as well but haven't tested it out yet.
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post #500 of 1111
11/30/12 at 7:01pm
I use a converter box with Dish Network, so everything is 1080. But my PS3 changes from 720/1080 depending on the game/update and I do see a second or two delay in that change as well as the display in the UR corner indicating its changing.
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post #501 of 1111
11/30/12 at 7:17pm
My last TV was a Sammy LN46B640 3yrs old but man did it make SD look good, so good that I never bought an Up converting DVD player and my Wii (over component video) looked good even on game mode. I upgraded to the 60LE640U a few months ago and changed nothing else and I really noticed the Wii looks a lot blockier. I didn’t think the screen size change would make that much difference but comparing apples to apples I have to say it does. Every imperfection is magnified literally 40%.
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post #502 of 1111
11/30/12 at 9:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by fbara View Post

I turned ME off and I didn't notice any improvement in football or basketball blur. Maybe I'm just expecting too much from this set.

I should clarify a bit here... I still see some motion blur with balls in football, basketball, baseball,and golf) with ME off, but it is less noticeable than with it on. What turning the ME off totally alleviates with my set is ball "ghosting"... nothing like seeing two golf ball come off one club, shot after shot, The blur that is there on balls in motion is almost eliminated in sports broadcasts that I receive OTA. This tells me that I getting some considerable compression in my cable signal.
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post #503 of 1111
12/1/12 at 1:12am
Most of these motion issues are originating from the source, which is not to imply these particular Sharp displays have the best motion processing and are not partly at fault as well.

Generally speaking you'll have better motion from sports if the cable/sat box is sending either 720p or 1080p (vs. 1080i) but everyone should do some experimenting and see what looks best to your eyes since this can vary person to person (and obviously cable/sat box to cable/sat box).

Jason
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post #504 of 1111
12/1/12 at 1:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaGamePimp View Post

Most of these motion issues are originating from the source, which is not to imply these particular Sharp displays have the best motion processing and are not partly at fault as well.
Generally speaking you'll have better motion from sports if the cable/sat box is sending either 720p or 1080p (vs. 1080i) but everyone should do some experimenting and see what looks best to your eyes since this can vary person to person (and obviously cable/sat box to cable/sat box).
Jason

Well said.
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post #505 of 1111
12/1/12 at 5:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rjhseven View Post

The ARC on my Sony 520 reciver works with netflix; have optical out from tv to reciever.

Optical out isn't really ARC. ARC specifically refers to the HDMI Audio Return Channel.

At any rate, I got it to work properly using only HDMI. I had to set the Denon's "HDMI Control" function to "On". This didn't make sense to me at first since neither the menu nor the manual talks about ARC as being controlled by this setting. But sure enough, when I have this enabled, no sound comes from the TV speakers and instead it comes from the receiver. This works for both Netflix and regular TV.
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post #506 of 1111
12/1/12 at 8:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr266 View Post

KryptoNyte, which Yamaha did you get? I may need to upgrade my old receiver as well but haven't tested it out yet.

I picked up this budget receiver;

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Yamaha+-+500W+5.1-Ch.+A/V+Home+Theater+Receiver/4566122.p?id=1218487064779&skuid=4566122

I works fairly well, allowing the user to dial up the desired audio delay in milliseconds. There is also some form of automatic lip sync, but I haven't had time to investigate how to make that work. This is my first HDMI in/HDMI out receiver, and there was one added benefit that I had not considered; because the receiver is pushing the video to the TV via HDMI, it also has the ability to do all of it's setup and menu navigation in overlay right on the TV screen - this must have been a huge advantage for the receiver design engineers when they had historically been forced to make the user navigate in the LED display on the receiver alone.

In all honesty, I would really prefer that Sharp fixes the television and allows for HDMI in to Optical out audio passthrough.
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post #507 of 1111
12/2/12 at 9:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by KryptoNyte View Post

In all honesty, I would really prefer that Sharp fixes the television and allows for HDMI in to Optical out audio passthrough.

This isn't a problem with Sharp. The audio is only allowed to pass along a HDCP path. This is due to BS rules pushed through by the movie/recording industry to prevent their precious data from getting sent to something that might be able to record it.

Read all about it here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-bandwidth_Digital_Content_Protection
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post #508 of 1111
12/2/12 at 12:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ancker View Post

This isn't a problem with Sharp. The audio is only allowed to pass along a HDCP path. This is due to BS rules pushed through by the movie/recording industry to prevent their precious data from getting sent to something that might be able to record it.
Read all about it here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-bandwidth_Digital_Content_Protection

Every single piece of hardware in the chain is fully HDCP complaint, so I can't imagine this has anything to with content protection. This is something Sharp missed.
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post #509 of 1111
12/2/12 at 1:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by KryptoNyte View Post

Every single piece of hardware in the chain is fully HDCP complaint, so I can't imagine this has anything to with content protection. This is something Sharp missed.

No, it is content protection. The optical path is not HDCP compliant, and the TV has no way of knowing what type of device you have on the other end of the optical cable. It's a stupid rule, but it's not Sharp's fault, they have to do this in order to remain HDCP compliant.
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post #510 of 1111
12/2/12 at 3:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaid View Post

Optical out isn't really ARC. ARC specifically refers to the HDMI Audio Return Channel.
At any rate, I got it to work properly using only HDMI. I had to set the Denon's "HDMI Control" function to "On". This didn't make sense to me at first since neither the menu nor the manual talks about ARC as being controlled by this setting. But sure enough, when I have this enabled, no sound comes from the TV speakers and instead it comes from the receiver. This works for both Netflix and regular TV.

I was trying to say that by using optical out from tv to reciever, I get PCM sound thru my reciever and do not have to use the TV speakers which are really bad.
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