Official 2012 Sharp LC-XXLE640U/XXC6400U - Page 20

I picked up the 70 640U a few days ago from Best Buy. I came from a 58" Panny 720P plasma. I just changed the settings to the ones on page one, except I turned ME off. Before that the PQ was bad and I thought I was going to have to return it. Thank God for the internet. PQ is awesome now. Dish 622 set to 720P. I think it looks better than 1080i and less motion blur. My only complaint is the limited off axis viewing. Luckily most of the sitting in my living room is within the good range.

BB will offer a price match for "local retailers" for 30 days, so I'll be checking around to see if I can get some cash back. Overall, very happy, 70 inches is BIG!!

Below are the settings I use on my 640U, if anyone wants to try them. These settings are the closest thing to the picture I get on my calibrated Panasonic VT50 plasma, which is the reference TV for all pro calibrators - practically the best picture money can buy today. I bought the Sharp 640U for gaming and any content that plasma might be sensitive to due to potential image retention (basically don't want to abuse the Panny which I use for BluRay and whenever I want the absolute top picture quality). So I used Calman calibration patterns and then checked the settings with various content too. I compared the color accuracy and all settings directly to the Panasonic VT50 as the reference. I must say, I was surprised how remarkably close to the VT50 I was able to get, to the point that the color accuracy was practically identical.

Btw, I use GAME AV mode, as it is the only decent mode on the 640U in terms of motion handling The 120Hz Motion Enhancement options of the 640U do not offer a good setting, and as reported the soap opera effect is really noticeable even when the motion enhancement is turned off. Only the GAME mode handles motion well with quite decent and natural looking motion.

As the last note, of course these settings may look somewhat different from set to set like with any TV and may require minor tweaks to one's personal liking, but I believe they should be a good starting point. If anyone tries them, I'd love to hear if they worked on other sets, and if they are well transferable...

AV MODE: GAME
OPC: Off
Backlight: STD
Contrast: +30
Brightness: +2
Color: -2
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

--Advanced sub-menu

C.M.S. -Hue
R: -5
Y: -2
G: +4
C: -5
B: -10
M: +3

C.M.S. -Saturation
R: -12
Y: -2
G: -20
C: 0
B: -12
M: -11

C.M.S. -Value
R: -4
Y: 0
G: -2
C: 0
B: +3
M: +3

Color Temp: Low
R Gain (LO): 0
G Gain (LO): +3
B Gain (LO): -7
R Gain (HI): -5
G Gain (HI): 0
B Gain (HI): -6

Motion Enhancement: [grayed out]
Active Contrast: Off
Gamma Adjustment: +2
Black Level: [grayed out]
Film Mode: [grayed out]
Digital Noise Reduction: Off
Monochrome: Off
Range of OPC: [any]

I received this set (the 70" model) about 5 days ago, moving from a 55" Mitsubishi RPTV (a big 250-lb box that I was tired of maintaining).

(My viewing is all Blu-Ray, DVD, and HDTV through Uverse - I do not use it for gaming).

After reading the various complaints and comments, and viewing some material myself, I turned off all of the motion and video processing options, and calibrated with Disney WOW (I did the DVD player - which does not upconvert - with the trusty old AVIA disc).

The only anomoly I encountered was with calibrating blue; I had to adjust the Advanced\Color Value of blue to +24 on all inputs; I do not know of there is a color-value error in the video processing software on this set, or if there is some sort of other error or flaw in hardware. Thank goodness the ability to make specific adjustments is available on these sets.

The results I have enjoyed thus far - especially with Blu-Ray - are stunning. A very faithful film-like reproduction, but with all of the glorious detail and color reproduction of 1080p. I have a lot of other viewing planned for the holidays, but I can report only great satisfaction thus far. My Blu-Ray player is a Pioneer Elite, which allows for Source-Direct and 4:4:4 color space output; the results through HDMI (which I never had with the old RPTV) are amazing.

....just hoping that the blue color adjustments I had to make are not a sign of a flaw in hardware, but in easily-adjustable software.

Thanks, I'll check 'em out.

Just put 'em in, looks great!

tried it using Direct TV and it just had too much SOE for me. Will try it with a Blu Ray sometime and see if it's any better.

Good to hear they work on other sets too. Hope they are helpful... I fine tuned just a bit after watching some more content and believe to have achieved a slight improvement by going down on red and green gain just a bit further. Below are the latest settings (changes in bold), which I believe I will not need to tweak any more, as the PQ is really great now. Cheers...

AV MODE: GAME
OPC: Off
Backlight: STD
Contrast: +30
Brightness: +2
Color: -2
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

--Advanced sub-menu

C.M.S. -Hue
R: -3
Y: -2
G: +4
C: -5
B: -12
M: +3

C.M.S. -Saturation
R: -14
Y: -2
G: -24
C: 0
B: -12
M: -11

C.M.S. -Value
R: -4
Y: 0
G: -2
C: 0
B: +3
M: +3

Color Temp: Low
R Gain (LO): 0
G Gain (LO): +3
B Gain (LO): -7
R Gain (HI): -5
G Gain (HI): 0
B Gain (HI): -6

Motion Enhancement: [grayed out]
Active Contrast: Off
Gamma Adjustment: +1
Black Level: [grayed out]
Film Mode: [grayed out]
Digital Noise Reduction: Off
Monochrome: Off
Range of OPC: [any]

Network broadcasts were a little bright so I had to lower the Gamma to -1, I think it looks better than the Pimps settings in Movie mode.

I tried Z-Mad's settings on my Blu-Ray/HDMI input, and found that - while flesh-tones are fairly accurate, overall colors seem very "washed-out" and dull. I performed comparisons from a couple of scenes from LOTR: FOTR which I use as benchmarks, and colors that came out very natural and life-like, both with my current set-up and my old 55" Mitsubishi RPTV, were very muted and dull with the new settings (including the same scenes on DVD). I would strongly recommend calibration with a disc such as WOW to gain the full color palette offered up by modern digital film reproduction.

As always, YMMV...
Edited by chucklee - 12/27/12 at 11:58am

I found that Standard factory setting is really good on this TV.

Mentioned many times but please remember that getting someone else's settings to work on your set is just 'luck' if they work (other than some of the basic settings which can often be the same).

Also as mentioned many times my settings were never intended for the 640 series, they are for the 632 and the two displays are different and thus calibrate different.

As far as I can tell Z-Mad's settings were done by eye and even when comparing to a properly calibrated display there is zero chance than any of us could match that up via a CMS, even very experienced calibrators with color in-tune eyes would have almost no chance of that one.

Also consider it very likely that (much like the 632) game mode will not be as accurate/capable as Movie mode. Of course if your set-up suffers from lag/sync issues this will be a mute point for you as game mode can usually eliminate this issue if other means are not available through AVR/Blu Ray player.

Jason

While I hoped the settings may work for others too after Hi Deaf's reply, I am not surprised if they did not translate exactly the same on every set. This was rather expected, as Jason mentioned as well. On my set the colors are very rich and in no way "washed out" for example. Even if I didn't get every tone perfectly (as I'm sure I didn't), the colors are however very "full" and accurate enough that it's hard to see the difference when comparing to my calibrated VT50. It goes to show again that transferring settings doesn't always work. Thanks for trying the settings and for the feedback...
I certainly agree and encourage pro calibration which can never be beat with any other form of calibrating

Z-Mad

Hey guys, how are you guys hooking up your bluray player to your receiver? I have a non-HDMI receiver so I'm feeding the digital audio out from the player into the receiver. Problem is that with the HDMI cable going into the TV, I'm getting audio out of the tv speakers and audio from my receiver at the same time -- it's like an echoing canyon! Is there a way to disable the tv speaker audio for that particular HDMI input?

There is no way to disable audio for an individual HDMI input. Turn the speakers down on your set when watching a movie.

Just bought an open-box 60" 6400U from Costco. Picture is good for me so far, but i havent gotten too deep into the adjustments and calibrations yet as this is my first fancy tv.

VERY disappointed that the Smart TV features the Sharp website led me to believe were part of this set actually aren't. Found an old jailbreak how-to for changing DNS settings to get a real browser working, but it was from 2010 and doesn't seem to work for me. Anyone else had any luck getting real Internet or additional apps (esp. HuluPlus) to work on this tv?

Sharp support said this model doesn't have a browse, despite verbiage on their website and in the manual about "connecting to the Internet" and "using the browser".

Cheers, y'all!

That is what we call a typo on their website. This TV does not have a browser. You would have to step up a model to get a browser.
Edited by myoda - 12/31/12 at 8:19am

These built-in apps and such that are included on "Smart TV's" are really a waste in my eyes. It's like buying a $2000 television with a DVD player built into the side - you just don't do that. In 3 years the DVD player will either be outdated, lack of support from some manufacturer, or broken.

I'm a firm believer in letting a TV do only what it's supposed to do, and getting some secondary device for the fancy, up to date media - whatever happens to be popular this year. Then, when all that dynamic stuff disappears or changes, it's only a $100 device at stake.

I share your opinion and also think that most of the extra features and apps are so unnecessary. Apart from having wifi connectivity to download firmware updates, most of the other stuff is either useless or definitely much better used on a PC, which you can easily hook up to the TV. BTW, there is practically no good web browsing experience on any TV, period. Just connect your PC or laptop to it if you want to do some web browsing, streaming, etc. A simple wireless keyboard and mouse turns any PC or laptop into an awesome entertainment center that takes care of any app, any streaming and any of the "smart" TV features, and does so 1000 times better... Just food for thought...

BTW, for anyone interested or tweaking their picture settings, these are my final settings I settled on and haven't seen a need to tweak any further. I posted some settings earlier, but ended up seeing potential for improvement and tweaking more. Also, after chucklee's comments, I checked the potential for even more color (even though I didn't think it was necessary), and there really was room to go higher in color. After several days of using these settings with various content, I really didn't see anything further to tweak. On my set at least, the colors are accurate and rich, and overall PQ is really great now. This may or may not work on some of the other sets, but at least can be a starting point for those interested, so I figured I'd post it...

Cheers

AV MODE: GAME
OPC: Off
Backlight: STD
Contrast: +30
Brightness: +1
Color:+1
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

--Advanced sub-menu

C.M.S. -Hue
R: -6
Y: +8
G: -3
C: -5
B: -14
M: +10

C.M.S. -Saturation
R: -15
Y: -3
G: -18
C: 0
B: -10
M: -6

C.M.S. -Value
R: -4
Y: 0
G: +3
C: 0
B: +9
M: -2

Color Temp: Low
R Gain (LO): 0
G Gain (LO): +3
B Gain (LO): -7
R Gain (HI): -5
G Gain (HI): 0
B Gain (HI): -6

Motion Enhancement: [grayed out]
Active Contrast: Off
Gamma Adjustment: +1
Black Level: [grayed out]
Film Mode: [grayed out]
Digital Noise Reduction: Off
Monochrome: Off
Range of OPC: [any]

\

Oh, gosh yes. Not to mention WDTV devices, Roku, AppleTV ... etc.

Yep, couldn't agree more. Useless gimmicks by people trying to find ways to sell stuff or charge more for something nobody really needs... Yeah, someone may use an app here and there, but again, nothing that I don't already have in a much more functional format on my PC/laptop, let alone for which I'd need to pay a few hundred bucks extra to have built into my TV... Consumerism at its best...

well consumerism and..........some of us like to watch HD netflix. Use the Netflix app on your computer and you are limited on HD content. You need those devices to watch most of the movies in HD.

Jlevy, where we were going with this is that any device is an acceptable device for Netflix and Internet streaming options in general, as long as it's not built into the television, whether it be a PC or even some $100 secondary device.

Is Netlfix and "stability" something you hear frequently in the same sentence? Apparently stable enough for Sharp Television to make the largest (and only huge red button) on the remote control dedicated just to that one company. That should be viewed as foolishness from a consumer standpoint.

I have to agree... Kind of like the maker of the most widely-used consumer PC operating system basing an entire revision around a touch-screen tablet interface.

I really don't care about 3D but I can get the 745 for the same $$ as the 640. Any reason to choose one over the other? Do they use the same screen for instance? Is one more reflective than the other? Has one shown more of a tendency for flash lighting or clouding or screen uniformity? Same menu and remote? Thanks

Like you i did not care for 3D content but purchased the 60" 640 first for the master bedroom and liked it enough after minimal tweaking that i went back to BB within 2 weeks and bought the 70" 640 for the living room. I had BB price match both Sharp 640 displays with the below online vendor ad, have the settings adjusted exactly the same, & am still extremely satisfied.

http://www.eastcoasttvs.com/Televisions-s/148.htm?searching=Y&brand=Sharp

Below are the settings i use on both displays that render a vibrant pop that i personally like versus any of the washed out warm movie mode parameters. But thats just me !

---

AV Mode: Standard

Backlight : +8
Brightness: -9
Contrast: +34
Color: +1
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +4

Color Temp: High
Motion Enhancement: OFF
Active Contrast: OFF
Film Mode: Advanced Mode +2 [ The wife likes a little SOE ]
Digital Noise Reduction: Off
Monochrome: Off
OPC: OFF

---

Regards & Good Luck whatever your decision,
Edited by Silverfox1 - 1/5/13 at 8:09am

Anybody else have a comparison between the innards of the Sharp 632 and the 745?

lc70le632 - discontinued
full array backlight
piano black surface

lc70le745 - current item
edge led
3D
brushed metal surface

reviews
632:
http://www.amazon.com/Sharp-LC-70LE632U-70-inch-Internet-Ready/product-reviews/B005LYRYPE/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt/183-4157173-7367903?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

745
http://www.amazon.com/Sharp-LC70LE745U-120Hz-70-Inch-LED-Lit/product-reviews/B0076LY7NM/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

I bought my LC-60LE640U from my friend but he did not have the screws that hold the base to the TV. Does anyone know what size and lenght they are? The manual only says "the four short screws".

Sharp just announced their new lineups at CES. They seem to be heading towards the "thinner" designs similar to that of Samsung/LG. Apart from that, no real major updates other than 240Hz and Quattron. No moth-eye, no active matrix, no local dimming. Plus their silver colored design (mimic Samsung/LG) doesn't look so good. I prefer the black IMHO. Here's hoping that the prices for the 2012 start dropping soon!