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Official 2012 Sharp LC-XXLE640U/XXC6400U - Page 27

post #781 of 1124
Quote:
Originally Posted by whoisthat View Post

So, I was playing with a LC-60LE600U and LC-70LE600U at Costco and Best Buy. I noticed something interesting. If you use dot-by-dot option, there is a very tiny thin line of black (about 2 pixels or so) on the left side of the screen. It's really not obvious at all.

When I was at Best Buy, I got them to hook a laptop to the TV, set it to dot-by-dot and 1920x1080. Well, guess what, it is dot-by-dot displayed perfectly, except everything is shifted to the right by a couple of pixels (show a tiny thin black vertically line on the left) and the the screen is cropped off by a couple of pixels. Again, it's not obvious unless you are paying close attention and have your face right up staring at the screen. It is like this:

Dot-by-Dot
Displayed with no overscan/underscan
Every dot is matched to a pixel per computer output
Using X.Y, coordinate, the entire image is shifted by two pixels to the right (2,0).

It's is still dot by dot just everything is moved to the right by two pixels. Kind of weird, but after trying it at both Best Buy and Costco, and both LC-60LE600U and LC-70LE600U, it seems like it is by design to be like this.

Can someone confirm this? Again, you have to look extremely closely and only appears in dot-by-dot using true 1080p resolution with no over/underscan.

Don't even look at the 600u. Waste of money. I took mine back and paid the extra $300 for the 640u. Well worth it. PQ is night and day.
post #782 of 1124
Does everyone else here get about a quarter inch of black on the top of the screen on every picture mode? The screen goes all the way to the bottom but the top always shows a quarter inch of black. I called customer service but they did' not have an answer for me.
post #783 of 1124
Hi everyone. I just switched from an older 720p hdtv to the 640U and found this forum very helpful - esp Z-Mad's calibration settings. Anyway, from testing out everything from cable, usb, netflix, ps3 etc, I have noticed a few things and am looking for feedback.

1. I have noticed selecting the menu option on the remote, when I have a channel on through my cable box, the channel typically changes to the first sd channel 0002. I have newer samsung dvr's as part of time warners signature home setup. Anyone notice this? I am guessing it is something goofy with crossed remote signals or something.

2. I believe I have it figured out with the AV mode where it saves your changes when you set them ie I set the game mode to Z-Mad's settings and they stick. Well then I noticed that with netflix, game mode is not an option so I set the User mode to the same settings so I can use those settings with netflix. What I found though is I cannot use those same settings to watch stuff through a usb source. I can pick User on usb but is not my saved settings(it says user-usb) and if you try to edit the settings through the menu, most are not available to change. It seems you are forced to use a preset mostly in usb. (It's not a huge issue for me as I have a dvd player that I always use for usb 2.0 playback so I can go that way and use game mode on that input - but it would be nice to have everything at the tv directly)
post #784 of 1124
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill McNeal View Post

Its a break in the solid black line at the edge. It looks like a stuck pixel but the remaning black pixels are black always. It's above the P in the Sharp logo at the base and only visible looking from top down. Not sure how to attach an image file else I'd post a photo.

Here's the picture. The break is more obvious on this image the smaller the picture or further away you are from your monitor. But in real life viewing, it is not significantly noticeable and I'm not sure if it's worthwhile to go through returning or exchanging it:


post #785 of 1124
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill McNeal View Post

Here's the picture. The break is more obvious on this image the smaller the picture or further away you are from your monitor. But in real life viewing, it is not significantly noticeable and I'm not sure if it's worthwhile to go through returning or exchanging it:



If u can't notice it during regular viewing, why go through the hassle of swapping out a set this size foAnother which ccould have the same issue? Unless you have a severe case of ocd, I wouldn't hassle with returning it.
post #786 of 1124
Quote:
Originally Posted by esl1970 View Post

Hi everyone. I just switched from an older 720p hdtv to the 640U and found this forum very helpful - esp Z-Mad's calibration settings. Anyway, from testing out everything from cable, usb, netflix, ps3 etc, I have noticed a few things and am looking for feedback.

1. I have noticed selecting the menu option on the remote, when I have a channel on through my cable box, the channel typically changes to the first sd channel 0002. I have newer samsung dvr's as part of time warners signature home setup. Anyone notice this? I am guessing it is something goofy with crossed remote signals or something.

2. I believe I have it figured out with the AV mode where it saves your changes when you set them ie I set the game mode to Z-Mad's settings and they stick. Well then I noticed that with netflix, game mode is not an option so I set the User mode to the same settings so I can use those settings with netflix. What I found though is I cannot use those same settings to watch stuff through a usb source. I can pick User on usb but is not my saved settings(it says user-usb) and if you try to edit the settings through the menu, most are not available to change. It seems you are forced to use a preset mostly in usb. (It's not a huge issue for me as I have a dvd player that I always use for usb 2.0 playback so I can go that way and use game mode on that input - but it would be nice to have everything at the tv directly)


Interesting. I just played around with USB again and the advanced settings were there to allow me to duplicate my 'game' mode settings. Yesterday everything was greyed out. I have noticed that Netflix is not as good as through the xbox. The settings are displayed as they should be for 'user' mode but it seems a bit off. The lip sync is off a tad too where through the xbox it is fine.
post #787 of 1124
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill McNeal View Post

Here's the picture. The break is more obvious on this image the smaller the picture or further away you are from your monitor. But in real life viewing, it is not significantly noticeable and I'm not sure if it's worthwhile to go through returning or exchanging it:



If I am seeing it correctly, what you see is the extension of the actual display panel below the actual bezel, since there seems to be a tiny opening in the edge of the bezel, allowing you to look further in. Maybe it is a small chip that broke off during assembly. But this does not look like any failure of the actual screen, just a tiny chip in the plastic bezel. I am sure it does not affect your actual screen and picture and is therefore nothing to worry about. You wouldn't even see it under any normal viewing circumstances. If it simply bothers you as a small imperfection, you can ask the store if they'd exchange it, but it is so tiny that it may not really qualify as a defect worth replacing... Just food for thought...
post #788 of 1124
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Shankenstein View Post

Do you have any pics of your calibrated set? I am considering the LE640U and forgoing 3D all together. Since I have to replace my HX929 I have been checking out my best options on a budget of between $1,000-1,200.

Here are a couple of random pics from just browsing cable channels. It "kind of" shows the accuracy of skin tones and colors, etc, but some of it gets lost to the quality of the camera that took the picture (it was just a cellphone camera), the lighting and to the computer monitor you are viewing the pictures on. So the pictures cannot reproduce the exact image I am seeing in my living room, but might give you some indication... I can tell you though that you wouldn't be disappointed, as I have shopped around a lot in that price range too, and this is the best value for the money with a really good picture quality... Hope it helps you...




post #789 of 1124
Dusty619, I have about 1/8 inch black all around an 16X9 frame. I'm guessing there is no overscan on this TV you're seeing the entire frame.

Bill McNeal, looking at my set I don't see any break along the edge.

FYI and for what it's worth, I used these settings based on CNET's posted in their review of the set.

AV MODE: USER
1
OPC: Off

Backlight: STD

Contrast: +30

Brightness: +2

Color: +2

Tint: 0

Sharpness: +2

--Advanced sub-menu


C.M.S. -Hue

R: -4

Y: +3

G: +4

C: +1

B: -13

M: +3

C.M.S. –Saturation

R: +3

Y: -5

G: 0

C: 0

B: 0

M: -8


C.M.S. –Value

R: 0

Y: 0

G: -2

C: 0

B: +3

M: +3

Color Temp: Low

R Gain (LO): 0

G Gain (LO): +3

B Gain (LO): -7

R Gain (HI): -5

G Gain (HI): 0

B Gain (HI): -6

Motion Enhancement: 120Hz High

Active Contrast: Off

Gamma Adjustment: +2

Black Level: [grayed out]

Film Mode: Off

Digital Noise Reduction: Off

Monochrome: Off

Range of OPC: [any]
post #790 of 1124
Quote:
Originally Posted by esl1970 View Post

Interesting. I just played around with USB again and the advanced settings were there to allow me to duplicate my 'game' mode settings. Yesterday everything was greyed out. I have noticed that Netflix is not as good as through the xbox. The settings are displayed as they should be for 'user' mode but it seems a bit off. The lip sync is off a tad too where through the xbox it is fine.

Note that my settings were done for the game mode only, so transferring them onto any other mode will likely not do you any good, as every mode is different and has to be calibrated separately. The settings are not transferable between modes, so what looks good in game mode might look completely off in another mode. I would suggest watching Netflix through your xbox where you can still run it in the game mode.
post #791 of 1124
Quote:
Originally Posted by dee zee View Post

Dusty619, I have about 1/8 inch black all around an 16X9 frame. I'm guessing there is no overscan on this TV you're seeing the entire frame.

Bill McNeal, looking at my set I don't see any break along the edge.

FYI and for what it's worth, I used these settings based on CNET's posted in their review of the set.

AV MODE: USER
1
OPC: Off

Backlight: STD

Contrast: +30

Brightness: +2

Color: +2

Tint: 0

Sharpness: +2

--Advanced sub-menu


C.M.S. -Hue

R: -4

Y: +3

G: +4

C: +1

B: -13

M: +3

C.M.S. –Saturation

R: +3

Y: -5

G: 0

C: 0

B: 0

M: -8


C.M.S. –Value

R: 0

Y: 0

G: -2

C: 0

B: +3

M: +3

Color Temp: Low

R Gain (LO): 0

G Gain (LO): +3

B Gain (LO): -7

R Gain (HI): -5

G Gain (HI): 0

B Gain (HI): -6

Motion Enhancement: 120Hz High

Active Contrast: Off

Gamma Adjustment: +2

Black Level: [grayed out]

Film Mode: Off

Digital Noise Reduction: Off

Monochrome: Off

Range of OPC: [any]

I checked out CNET settings as well before I did mine, but CNET's settings were done in MOVIE mode, not USER mode. Just pointing that out as you seem to have used the user mode, which is probably not at all the same as movie mode, so the settings may not be translating as intended (on top of any screen variances to begin with). It is actually because of CNET using the movie mode with the motion enhancement turned on that I decided to work on calibrating the GAME mode myself to get rid of the SOE, etc... I also found that the movie mode tends to have a greenish tint to it (I believe this was pointed out in one of the online reviews as well), so the game mode gave me (at least in my case) far more accurate skin tones and other colors too. Anyway, that was of course just my personal experience and preference, so just an FYI. Enjoy your TV biggrin.gif
post #792 of 1124
I agree Z-Mad, I used your settings with game, and CNets with movie, and their settings do appear a bit greenish and washed out. The only adjustments I made to your game settings was with brightness, contrast, and color temp. CNET should take note of YOUR calibration wink.gif
post #793 of 1124
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z-Mad View Post

Note that my settings were done for the game mode only, so transferring them onto any other mode will likely not do you any good, as every mode is different and has to be calibrated separately. The settings are not transferable between modes, so what looks good in game mode might look completely off in another mode. I would suggest watching Netflix through your xbox where you can still run it in the game mode.


I can't stand the motion stuff also and like your game mode settings. the issue is you cannot select the game mode on the USB input. The user mode just looks to be all user preference settings for everything so I duplicated the game mode settings exactly including turning off all the motion items. It works great for USB and seems to mimic game mode exactly.
Netflix seems to be the only exception. You can pick user mode just like in USB and the settings you picked are listed but it doesn't look quite the same and the lip sync is just a tad off - enough to be noticeable. I will probably test again but xbox seems the way to go.
post #794 of 1124
I will still say my remote signals are mixing with each other or my tv remote is haunted. I can duplicate it pretty frequently where i can go into the menu and/ or go to the av mode button and I see my cable channel changing by 0's getting typed in - like it senses my fingers close to the 0 on the tv remote so it types in 0 on the cable remote. Pretty funny.
post #795 of 1124
Z-mad, I know what you mean. CNET's were in MOVIE mode but I built my settings off USER mode. Using your settings In my GAME mode just made my set all washed out in color. No offense just saying the settings could be all over place depending on one's starting point. I may get the Disney WOW disc just so I have a reference because so far just going by eye.
post #796 of 1124
I think a lot of us use Z-mad's settings. Thanks for sharing!

Also how did you come up with them? Did you use a calibration disc ilke Disney WOW, had an ISF professional, or just eyeballed it with each individual setting?
post #797 of 1124
I have an audio video sync problem, especially on live broadcasts, on my 640u. The connections are a Directv HD DVR hr24 connected via hdmi to a Sony str-dn1000 receiver and then a single hdmi to the tv. Is there any kind of adjustment to the tv? I can't find one and I can't find one on the receiver either.
Edited by dreamfield42 - 2/12/13 at 1:20pm
post #798 of 1124
I tried Z-mad's settings and found the colors very gray or washed out. I believe it has much to do with the saturation levels being turned down quite a bit actually.

Perhaps there are some models with different parts/panels that cause the big change.
post #799 of 1124
Quote:
Originally Posted by haqattaq View Post

I tried Z-mad's settings and found the colors very gray or washed out. I believe it has much to do with the saturation levels being turned down quite a bit actually.



Perhaps there are some models with different parts/panels that cause the big change.


Moving color temp from low to med-low or middle helps.
post #800 of 1124
I had to buy a new surround amp with lip sync adjustment to get lip sync off DVR or Blu to lock in with this set. I guess this must be a common problem with these bigger screens since receivers are adding lip sync functions.
post #801 of 1124
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamfield42 View Post

I have an audio video sync problem, especially on live broadcasts, on my 640u. The connections are a Directv HD DVR hr24 connected via hdmi to a Sony str-dn1000 receiver and then a single hdmi to the tv. Is there any kind of adjustment to the tv? I can't find one and I can't find one on the receiver either.

No sync issues here with my onkyo receiver. I use the lip sync feature and it works really well. How old is your receiver?
post #802 of 1124
Quote:
Originally Posted by haqattaq View Post

I tried Z-mad's settings and found the colors very gray or washed out. I believe it has much to do with the saturation levels being turned down quite a bit actually.

Perhaps there are some models with different parts/panels that cause the big change.

As stated before by many (including myself), the settings certainly do not translate the same from set to set. Some sets will accept them quite well, some will not. As with anything, these TV's are manufactured in different batches and there are some differences between them. These variances are normal, so it is a bit of a game of chance. I posted my settings for anyone to try, certainly without guarantees how well they will translate onto each set. Also, there is always a matter of personal preferences too of course. Some people like the picture as bright as possible, kind of like they see it in the stores, or may have some other preferences. My settings are based on setting the contrast, brightness and colors in a way proper calibration suggests, so no details are lost in whites or blacks, the colors are accurate and natural looking, and overall picture has a good contrast and "pops". Some have reported washed out looking picture with these settings (which certainly isn't the case o my own set), some have reported fantastic picture. It will certainly depend on the set and some preferences too. Whichever settings work for you and on your set, enjoying your TV is what counts smile.gif Cheers...
post #803 of 1124
Quote:
Originally Posted by dee zee View Post

Z-mad, I know what you mean. CNET's were in MOVIE mode but I built my settings off USER mode. Using your settings In my GAME mode just made my set all washed out in color. No offense just saying the settings could be all over place depending on one's starting point. I may get the Disney WOW disc just so I have a reference because so far just going by eye.

No worries, no offence taken. As mentioned, it will indeed depend on the set, plus some personal preferences, etc. On some sets it works better then others, so these settings are just there for anyone to try if they so choose, or if looking for a starting point.... If you are not finding good settings that translate well for you, WOW Disc is certainly advisable to get you on the right track. Good luck smile.gif
post #804 of 1124
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z-Mad View Post

As stated before by many (including myself), the settings certainly do not translate the same from set to set. Some sets will accept them quite well, some will not. As with anything, these TV's are manufactured in different batches and there are some differences between them. These variances are normal, so it is a bit of a game of chance. I posted my settings for anyone to try, certainly without guarantees how well they will translate onto each set. Also, there is always a matter of personal preferences too of course. Some people like the picture as bright as possible, kind of like they see it in the stores, or may have some other preferences. My settings are based on setting the contrast, brightness and colors in a way proper calibration suggests, so no details are lost in whites or blacks, the colors are accurate and natural looking, and overall picture has a good contrast and "pops". Some have reported washed out looking picture with these settings (which certainly isn't the case o my own set), some have reported fantastic picture. It will certainly depend on the set and some preferences too. Whichever settings work for you and on your set, enjoying your TV is what counts smile.gif Cheers...

I think this is a given in a forum like this.

Perhaps if we dig a little deeper into the serial numbers/parts, we can find some sort of trend in the feedback.
post #805 of 1124
Calibration setting are also dependent on whether you're watching standard channels, HD channels, as well as the caliber/quality of the signal broadcasted.
post #806 of 1124
I purchased and returned the 6400U twice now due to some bad clouding. On both sets there was a large cloud that was bowtie shaped on the left side of the screen, almost where the HDMI inputs are located. I am trying to decide if I should go back and get another Sharp (they only have the 640U now, but I turned all the motion enhancements off so the lack of the 240 is not an issue) or get a Samsung UN60EH6050F which is backlit (or so I have been told) and may have less clouding issues. They are about the same price (1000 for the Sharp and around 1100 for the Samsung). After using the settings in this thread I really liked the picture quality on the Sharp, but the clouding drove me nuts, is the clouding a common problem with the Sharp and if so is the Samsung a better alternative? Thanks for any help.
post #807 of 1124
Quote:
Originally Posted by haqattaq View Post

I think this is a given in a forum like this.

Perhaps if we dig a little deeper into the serial numbers/parts, we can find some sort of trend in the feedback.

Yep, common thing...
post #808 of 1124
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldgregg99 View Post

Calibration setting are also dependent on whether you're watching standard channels, HD channels, as well as the caliber/quality of the signal broadcasted.

Yep, I agree. It is a combination of different factors, which is why everyone may need to make some personal tweaks to reach the optimal PQ...
post #809 of 1124
What method did you use for your posted settings?
post #810 of 1124
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill McNeal View Post

I think a lot of us use Z-mad's settings. Thanks for sharing!

Also how did you come up with them? Did you use a calibration disc ilke Disney WOW, had an ISF professional, or just eyeballed it with each individual setting?

What allowed me to get to this picture quality is my other TV, which is a professionally calibrated Panasonic VT50, currently the reference TV of most if not all pro calibrators and rated as the best picture on the market today. So I was able to use that as my reference and run various calibration patterns to match up the exact color tones, etc. I used Calman calibration patterns generator, which allows me to generate exact shades of each color on both sets and do tweaks to match them as far as possible. I do not have a professional colorimeter, so it is not 100% accurate as professional calibration would be, but it gets me pretty close. Calman has great patterns (like some of the calibration DVD's too) allowing adjustments to brightness and contrast, etc, to assure the proper level of detail in bright or dark scenes, etc. Then testing the setting with various content allowed some minor tweaks to where the settings are today. Hope this gives you some insight biggrin.gif
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