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The ch.14 "Fire Power" Theater - Page 6

post #151 of 333
Just read the whole thread driving home from the in-laws. Very nice project.
post #152 of 333
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

Stage looks great Larry! Keep up the good work!
Thanks GWCR, I'm getting there!
post #153 of 333
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesB77 View Post

Just read the whole thread driving home from the in-laws. Very nice project.

I'm glad I was able to entertain you for the ride cool.gif

My in-laws bought me an Ipad for Christmas...now I need to figure out how I am going to incorporate it into the theater.
post #154 of 333
It was a good way to pass the time.
Awesome present from the inlaws. I've seen quite a few people use their iPads as controllers. You could see if that fits your plans.
post #155 of 333
Thread Starter 
Yeah I'd like to see if I can use it for lighting with my Lutron Spacer system as well as control the HTPC, DVR, receiver, BR player, etc.

Essentially let it do what my Harmony One does plus more
post #156 of 333
Resurrected from the dead I see LOL rolleyes.gif
Edited by cw5billwade - 12/27/12 at 12:12pm
post #157 of 333
Hey Larry, looks good! I saw some of your posts over in the iRule thread, so I thought I'd answer here because that thread can get bogged down. I'm using iRule to control everything in the theater on my iPad and iPhone. To use iRule, you need at the least to purchase a license from the iruleathome.com. A pro license allows you to build 5 handsets in their web-based app and also gives you feedback for IP or RS232 controlled components. However, special hardware purchased from Global Cache may also be necessary. These can include the iTach units (they have wired and wireless to connect to your network) or the larger GC-100's, which need an ethernet connection. These devices allow you to send commands from your iOS iRule app which are then "translated" into either IR commands or RS232 commands to control your components. If, as is unlikely, all your components can be controlled via IP, then all you need is an iPad and an iRule license.

iRule is great for allowing you to customize, but it is painstaking and time-consuming to set up. It's taken me over a month to get it where I want it, and I still have more to do and am constantly tweaking it here and there). But it's relatively inexpensive and it really does allow you to customize the interface to exactly what you want. I've got family in town, but I'm planning to take some pics of my finished room after this week and I'll include some screenshots of my iRule interface -- right now all we're doing is drinking and watching movies!
post #158 of 333
Thread Starter 
Thanks RS69

That IRule thread is a bit overwhelming so your comments are really appreciated!
Not sure which of my equipment would be compatible without some of the global cache items. I would bet most of them don't so I am guessing I need at least 1 to control my Lutron Spacer System and projector in the theater room and another in my equipment room to control the Denon 3808, DVR, whatever HTPC, Panasonic BDT-330

I saw some of the units that were listed as powered over Ethernet, this I think would work great for me because I don't have any outlets in my columns...at least I think

Too bad to hear about customization. I saw another thread with screen shots of IRule and on the first page I really liked one of the layouts. I am guessing I can't just take his layout?
post #159 of 333
Just read the whole thread....

Looks great and I cant wait to see the finished product.
post #160 of 333
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Thanks RS69
That IRule thread is a bit overwhelming so your comments are really appreciated!
Not sure which of my equipment would be compatible without some of the global cache items. I would bet most of them don't so I am guessing I need at least 1 to control my Lutron Spacer System and projector in the theater room and another in my equipment room to control the Denon 3808, DVR, whatever HTPC, Panasonic BDT-330
I saw some of the units that were listed as powered over Ethernet, this I think would work great for me because I don't have any outlets in my columns...at least I think
Too bad to hear about customization. I saw another thread with screen shots of IRule and on the first page I really liked one of the layouts. I am guessing I can't just take his layout?

I think the Denon can be IP controlled but I don't think the Lutron Spacer or the BD player are. It's doubtful in any case that you won't need to get Global Cache hardware. I have a single GC-100-12 in my rack -- cost about $230 if I remember correctly. The license cost $100. So you get a fully customizable remote for $330 (plus a whole lot of labor time!).

In terms of templates, iRule does have some default templates but I didn't look at them. Many iRule users publish graphics and background which you can use to build your interface. It actually doesn't take very long to build a simple remote. It's when you get into complicated macros and feedbacks that things get more involved. I used a background image that mborner had published in the iRule builder and then played around in Photoshop to add more graphics and buttons. There's definitely a learning curve, but I'm quite happy with how it's turning out.
post #161 of 333
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

I think the Denon can be IP controlled but I don't think the Lutron Spacer or the BD player are. It's doubtful in any case that you won't need to get Global Cache hardware. I have a single GC-100-12 in my rack -- cost about $230 if I remember correctly. The license cost $100. So you get a fully customizable remote for $330 (plus a whole lot of labor time!).
In terms of templates, iRule does have some default templates but I didn't look at them. Many iRule users publish graphics and background which you can use to build your interface. It actually doesn't take very long to build a simple remote. It's when you get into complicated macros and feedbacks that things get more involved. I used a background image that mborner had published in the iRule builder and then played around in Photoshop to add more graphics and buttons. There's definitely a learning curve, but I'm quite happy with how it's turning out.

What does the GC-100-12 do that differs from the other Itach products?

Ok it looks like an Itach with ,ultiple connections. Makes sense now
Edited by Larry M - 12/29/12 at 4:36am
post #162 of 333
Yep, it has six IR outs and two serial ports for RS232. I'm using both serial ports currently and four of the IR outs. I also installed an IR receiver in the room so I can use the factory remotes if iRule is down for some reason or the other.
post #163 of 333
Thread Starter 
Small update

Framed the columns with 2x4s and was just about to finish them with drywall but I don't like the rigidity of drywall so I am going to finish hem with 3/4" MDF.

Now I am trying to figure out a way to implement removable screens so I can hide my speakers. Does anyone have construction advice on removable panels? I'm completely lost and was planning on using one of the below moulding

image_zps2c22e0ae.jpg

image_zpsf0d47e59.jpg

Here are some photos of the framed columns

12-28-12StageColumns001_zps6006d90a.jpg

12-28-12StageColumns003_zps60fd70a5.jpg

12-29-12Columns001_zps7d849582.jpg

12-29-12Columns003_zps2355cf56.jpg

12-29-12Columns004_zpsfa5366d4.jpg
post #164 of 333
Larry, I like the second molding, what is it?
Sorry, not much help with how to build the removable screens though. I have to do the same thing and have some ideas similar to how Mario built his. I'm not at that that stage though so don't know if it will work.
post #165 of 333
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesB77 View Post

Larry, I like the second molding, what is it?
Sorry, not much help with how to build the removable screens though. I have to do the same thing and have some ideas similar to how Mario built his. I'm not at that that stage though so don't know if it will work.

The 2nd piece is a normal panel moulding. It is in the last picture on the column...too far to show the detail though
post #166 of 333
Thread Starter 
Received another quote to tape, mud, sand the drywall

$2400 frown.gif

Tough pill to swallow so ill call in a few more quotes and go with who I feel most comfortable.
post #167 of 333
Thread Starter 
Hopefully my dad can come by tomorrow with his van to pick up some MDF

I decided I want to finish the columns in MDF instead of Sheetrock. I think the MDF will provide a better surface for the removable grills in the columns
post #168 of 333
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Received another quote to tape, mud, sand the drywall
$2400 frown.gif
Tough pill to swallow so ill call in a few more quotes and go with who I feel most comfortable.

How many sheets are they finishing?
post #169 of 333
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

How many sheets are they finishing?

About 60-65 sheets

~$40 a sheet sounds kind of crazy to me. I honestly thought it would be about $10 on the cheap for a guy I would pick up on the corner to $20 on the high end perfect finish.

Everyone I have brought by has commeneded me on m hanging job so its not like I did a hack up job on hanging and have to pay extra for them to fix. Some of the "bad" parts I pointed out the guys laughed at me and said that is easy.
Edited by Larry M - 1/5/13 at 7:13am
post #170 of 333
I had 50 sheets purchased, hung, taped, mudded & textured for $2100 ($42/sheet). Since you did the hanging, your quote seems a bit high.

I estimated the material portion of my job to be $600, which left $1500 for labor. My entire job took 115 man hours (2 or 3 guys per day for 7 days), so their hourly rate came to $13 an hour. The finishing part of my job (corner bead, taping, mudding & sanding) took 71 man hours, or $923 using the $13 hourly rate. So my labor cost to finish 50 sheets came in at $18.46/sheet. If your finishing job was in Houston, I would expect the labor portion to be between $1100-$1200 . Since you are in NJ, you should bump those numbers up a bit. You should also allow $200 for materials.

You should get at least 3 quotes. My 1st quote was $5500. The 2nd & 3rd were $2400 and $2100.
post #171 of 333
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I had 50 sheets purchased, hung, taped, mudded & textured for $2100 ($42/sheet). Since you did the hanging, your quote seems a bit high.
I estimated the material portion of my job to be $600, which left $1500 for labor. My entire job took 115 man hours (2 or 3 guys per day for 7 days), so their hourly rate came to $13 an hour. The finishing part of my job (corner bead, taping, mudding & sanding) took 71 man hours, or $923 using the $13 hourly rate. So my labor cost to finish 50 sheets came in at $18.46/sheet. If your finishing job was in Houston, I would expect the labor portion to be between $1100-$1200 . Since you are in NJ, you should bump those numbers up a bit. You should also allow $200 for materials.
You should get at least 3 quotes. My 1st quote was $5500. The 2nd & 3rd were $2400 and $2100.

Thanks Space

If I take your $923 labor cost and add 30% for more sheets (50 --> 65 sheets) I get to nearly $1,200. Add in Cost of Living Adjustment because I live in one of the most expensive parts of the country but I get nothing in return except the highest car insurance, high real estate taxes...ok off the soap box.

Lets say that C.O.L.A is 35% which sounds more than fair that would bring me to $1,620 for labor +$200 for material. Total $1,820 sounds like a decent #. I'm really hoping to find someone for $1,500 or less
Edited by Larry M - 1/5/13 at 8:08am
post #172 of 333
Are you putting speakers in your columns? If so what portion will be drywalled?
post #173 of 333
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

Are you putting speakers in your columns? If so what portion will be drywalled?

Yes I am putting speakers in the columns. I decided to use MDF instead of Sheetrock.

I spent today doing that. I'm almost done and it has come out really nice thus far. I'll post up some photos tomorrow.

Also went to another lumber yard and found a different trim for the columns that I really like. It has a little more detail than the previously pictured panel moulding
post #174 of 333
Thread Starter 
Picked up a few more tools lately. I bought the famous Porter Cable US58 in preparation to build a lot of fabric panels.

Also picked up a camera tri-pod and Dewalt DW087K laser level. I played around with the laser level a little and it is pretty awesome. I just need to figure out how to get it on my tri-pod
post #175 of 333
Thread Starter 
Here are the moulding profiles I am going with. I think I am leaning toward the 2nd one.

image_zpsfa194bf8.jpg

image_zpsa650c927.jpg
post #176 of 333
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

I decided to use MDF instead of Sheetrock.

What size MDF did you wind up going with? 1/2" or 3/4"?
post #177 of 333
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScAndal View Post

What size MDF did you wind up going with? 1/2" or 3/4"?
I ended up going with 3/4 for 2 reasons

1- I overkill everything. I think 1/2" would have been fine but for $40 more why not
2- the 3/4 depth gives me more moulding options. The 2 mouldings pictured above have a 3/4" rabbit so I offset the MDF from the framing a little to give me a larger fabric panel. I essentially picked up an extra 1" making the fabric piece 6 3/4" instead of 5 3/4"
post #178 of 333
Great thread, and a really nice build.

Hope the thumb is better..
post #179 of 333
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickygreen View Post

Great thread, and a really nice build.
Hope the thumb is better..

Haha thumb is better. It took a few months for the bruise to grow out but everything is all good cool.gif

Didn't make much progress today since I was busy fixing the dishwasher and taking care of my construction vehicle.

My construction vehicle is having some transmission problems and I found that the aftermarket transmission cooler has a small crack in the cooling fins and thus a small leak. I'm guessing some of the slipping I felt the last 2 times I drove is because I lost a little bit of fluid.



Well enough of the construction vehicle; I'll take care of her this weekend if the weather is warm again. Luckily my neighbor has been kind enough to lend me his Ford Mustang or Audi S4

So here is what I did yesterday with putting the 3/4 MDF on the framing




Here are the moulding profiles I am deciding between


After consulting with my father, step father, father in law, wife, mother, mother in law we all decided we liked the bottom moulding better. Here are closer photos of the moulding


post #180 of 333
Thread Starter 
OK small update

I spent last week at my in-laws framing a box for their fireplace. Overally it came out real nice and they are ready for the fireplace company to come in and install the fireplace.

As for this weekend, I started building the frame for the screen. As usual it was over built it. I think you can hang a tank from:cool:

I could have planned it a little better and used quite a bit less wood but once I set the top plate and bottom plate I was stuck with my plan. I ended up running 5 studs vertically on each side which I really should have run 3 for what I was looking to do but no biggie. I'm real happy with the outcome and only need to build the 45* corners at this point. Everything for the 45* corners is cut but I really needed to do some homework so I had to stop.

Here are some pics of the progress.




I finished the top and bottom with 3/4" maple ply and finished the sides with 3/4" MDF. I would have used all 3/4" Maple but I didn't have enough and at $40 a sheet I wasn't going to buy more.

I used my laser level to set the Seymour / Screen Excellence brackets. That thing is awesome, I checked the accuracy at ~20' and it is spot on. Saved me quite a bit of time in leveling.

I screwed up the sconce lighting for the screen. I think when I did my measurements early on I intended on the screen being about 6" closer to the seating area so I dropped my wiring about there. Looks like I missed the mark so it'll be a little bit of a PITA to fix but shouldn't be too bad.
Edited by Larry M - 1/20/13 at 6:58pm
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