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The ch.14 "Fire Power" Theater - Page 2

post #31 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by willscam View Post

Nice choice of sub. I have 2 JTR captivators. You may want to think about the possibility of placing 2 subs in your theater, not for the increased overhead, but for more uniform bass throughout the seating area. Easier to reduce nulls and peaks with 2 subs, than with one.

I've got a 2nd sub, it is a Def Tech Supercube Reference. I don't think it'll keep up with the Seaton but will help
post #32 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post


Thanks for joining

I used to work for a company that was based in Oslo Norway. I was disappointed to have never had an opportunity to go there.

Never too late for that. I used to work in Oslo before I moved into the province (Trondheim). Miss it sometimes. For us Norwegians Oslo is the big city *laugh*.

Looking forward to hear your experience with the EN4K screen. I've seen the RS45 at a friend's house. It's really nice with those "inky" colors.

Cheers, Tor
post #33 of 207
Thread Starter 
Off topic, but i'll be finishing this up this weekend and now 90% focus goes to the basement. I did the under cabinet lights a few months back and the under cabinet trim at the same time







post #34 of 207
Nice work, Larry. That looks great!
post #35 of 207
Thread Starter 
Thanks Willscam, it was a lot of work but looks great now. We had to cut almost every single piece of tile to ge the look we were going for.

I should have an update for the basement soon. Unfortunately not the theater room but the framing is 99% done and now that the HVAC (finally installed) is nearly complete I can build the soffits and move along!
post #36 of 207
Looks good, any recent progress?
post #37 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

Looks good, any recent progress?

Progress has been pretty good. I took some pics but forgot to load them to my photobucket account.

Since my last photos:
**I finished framing the rest of the basement, bathroom, and storage room
**Built shelves in the storage room to store several items
**90% through plumbing for the wet bar outside the theater. Just need to order the Zoeller Ejector pump...but at the same time it might be a year before I hook up the bar so I hate ordering the pump
**HVAC is nearly done. The guys have to come back and install another duct, zone controller, additional zone damper, and thermostat
**Placed all my electrical boxes throughout the basement

Tonight i'll probably run some cables to the work boxes.

More exciting news is I returned about $300 worth of additional materials I had. I have a habit of buying every elbow, angle, size so I don't run out of material. Thumbs up to Home Depot and Lowes for now tracking purchases with credit cards and not needing receipts. I handed the lady like 10 receipts all a mile long and she said it would be better if I just gave my credit card

With that money I ended up buying a Bosch Circular Saw and Oscillating tool

With the upcoming 3 day weekend, I am hoping to have electrical and plumbing ready for rough in inspection.

Also been spending a lot of time reading up on Middle Atlantic Rack. I've been following Craigslist and these seem to go pretty cheap in the used market so I'll either wait for a deal or give Mike at AVS a call when the time comes. I'm eyeing the ERK series, just don't know what size I want.
post #38 of 207
Congrats on the return! Seems like free money, doesn't it?

I ordered an ERK 4025 with fantop and plexi front door through Mike. It arrived exactly one week after I placed the order. Much better deal than I was getting though local dealers.
post #39 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

Congrats on the return! Seems like free money, doesn't it?

I ordered an ERK 4025 with fantop and plexi front door through Mike. It arrived exactly one week after I placed the order. Much better deal than I was getting though local dealers.

If I order through Mike, I expect it to come within 45min. I think I am going to go with an ERK4020 or 4025 also...don't want to go too small and hate myself when I run out of space and don't want to go too big and have the wife hate me for this giant piece of furniture behind the bar stools

Middle Atlantic is about 30 min from my house
post #40 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

If I order through Mike, I expect it to come within 45min. I think I am going to go with an ERK4020 or 4025 also...don't want to go too small and hate myself when I run out of space and don't want to go too big and have the wife hate me for this giant piece of furniture behind the bar stools

Middle Atlantic is about 30 min from my house

Hey that's a good neighbor to have! Mine got shipped from Illinois actually, and it ain't small. Where is your rack going?
post #41 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

Hey that's a good neighbor to have! Mine got shipped from Illinois actually, and it ain't small. Where is your rack going?

Right here





Coming into the basement, the wall takes a 45* turn where the 2nd Zone Return is and then another 45* turn where the rack will be followed by a door for the utility room/rack room
post #42 of 207
Thread Starter 
Some updates

Oh yeah I added a Central Vac line which can be seen in the 2nd photo above

Storage room and bathroom framed out


Water and Vent line for bar sink. Also the framing for the rear bar area


2nd zone main trunk for HVAC


1 of 2 zone dampers


1 of 3 HVAC ducts for theater


2nd and 3rd HVAC ducts for theater
post #43 of 207
I noticed you mentioned 3/4" mdf for the soffit. Is there any reason for going with the 3/4" over 1/2"? I only ask because of the weight difference. I was rolling along fine with the 3/4" on my soffit and then when it came time to put the bottom up I wished I had went with 1/2" atleast for the bottom but was too late since a lot of stuff was already built allowing for that dimension. I used PL premium on just about every single thing in the theater and a ton of screws, but with the close spacing of all the dead wood for the soffits I could have gotten away with 1/2" without worries of sagging. Just a thought I'm throwing out there.

Looks good so far! Keep the pics rolling!
post #44 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post

I noticed you mentioned 3/4" mdf for the soffit. Is there any reason for going with the 3/4" over 1/2"? I only ask because of the weight difference. I was rolling along fine with the 3/4" on my soffit and then when it came time to put the bottom up I wished I had went with 1/2" atleast for the bottom but was too late since a lot of stuff was already built allowing for that dimension. I used PL premium on just about every single thing in the theater and a ton of screws, but with the close spacing of all the dead wood for the soffits I could have gotten away with 1/2" without worries of sagging. Just a thought I'm throwing out there.

Looks good so far! Keep the pics rolling!

Never really thought of sagging, I am using the 3/4" OSB more for mass than anything.

I'm pretty sure hanging 3/4" OSB and then 5/8" sheetrock is going to suck. I'll probably hire out the sheetrock work since it'll take me forever
post #45 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Never really thought of sagging, I am using the 3/4" OSB more for mass than anything.

I'm pretty sure hanging 3/4" OSB and then 5/8" sheetrock is going to suck. I'll probably hire out the sheetrock work since it'll take me forever

Looking great! I personally would hire out the sheetrock. Some jobs are just too miserable and take the fun out of the process. I paid to have my riser carpeted. It took two guys 4 hours, with lots of grumbling, to get it done. They each had 20 years experience in carpeting. Would have taken me probably twice as long and the results would have been...uhm, less than perfect. Best $150 I spent on my theater.
post #46 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by willscam View Post

Looking great! I personally would hire out the sheetrock. Some jobs are just too miserable and take the fun out of the process. I paid to have my riser carpeted. It took two guys 4 hours, with lots of grumbling, to get it done. They each had 20 years experience in carpeting. Would have taken me probably twice as long and the results would have been...uhm, less than perfect. Best $150 I spent on my theater.

Carpet for sure if getting hired out and I am highly considering the sheetrock.

I'm curious to it's cost; I have read $0.40 per sq. ft but I have no clue if that is accurate. If it is, that would set me back at about $2,000 for the basement and will make me think long and hard.

$2,000 is another Seaton Submersive ya know
post #47 of 207
Is the $0.40/sq ft just labor? Or is it materials and labor? $2000 is a tough pill to swallow. Guess it all depends on what your time/suffering is worth.
post #48 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by willscam View Post

Is the $0.40/sq ft just labor? Or is it materials and labor? $2000 is a tough pill to swallow. Guess it all depends on what your time/suffering is worth.

Not sure, just what I caught online but didn't state if that includes the actual sheet rock or just labor. I have 2 guys coming tomorrow to give me a quote so we'll see

I tend to price things in electronics, I start thinking of all the cool things I can then buy :-)
post #49 of 207
Thread Starter 
Any plumbing experts out there? Here is the plumbing for my bar and future bathroom area. Any advice is more than welcomed

This first picture represents the vent line to the bar sink. The 3rd bay where the vent pipe T's (second picture) has the PVC to the right and connected to the vent line that goes straight to the attic and connected to the main stack out to the roof. The PVC that goes left head about 15' - 20' to the future bathroom
#1

#2


The 15' - 20' run (1/4" slope per ft) turns down here (original picture from original post) however I plan to put a sink to the left and toilet to the right so here is what I did in picture #3 and #4. As you can see I have about a foot of PVC capped off which will go to the future sink.

#3


#4


The PVC the goes to the right from pictures #3 and #4 are making their way (pic #5) to the ejector pit.

#5


PVC makes a right turn and you can see I have a Y hanging on the ceiling for future connection to the toilet in pictures #6 and #7

#6


#7


And finally another right turn and down turn for a straight shot to the ejector pit in pictures #8 and #9
#8


#9


So does all this look good and not a code violation? I plan to cement everything and call the inspector in the next few weeks.
post #50 of 207
Thread Starter 
So I got my first quote back for sheetrock...

$4,250

Yeah just a tad bit more than I was expecting and I have to buy all the screws, tape, mud, etc...This was strictly labor only
post #51 of 207
So, there will be more quotes, then?
post #52 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

So I got my first quote back for sheetrock...

$4,250

Yeah just a tad bit more than I was expecting and I have to buy all the screws, tape, mud, etc...This was strictly labor only

What's your square footage? I just got my 1100sq ft basement done several months ago for $2500 and that's including drywall, hung, taped, mud and entire basement primed. You definitely need to shop around. The guy quoted me $16 a sheet ($8 hung and $8 taped). If I remember correctly he used 85-90 sheets.
post #53 of 207
I had about 1600 sf (50 sheets) installed last month, which included hanging, taping, mudding & texture.

Quote 1: $5,500 ($110/sheet or $3.43/sf)
Quote 2: $2,600 ($52/sheet or $1.62/sf)
Quote 3: $2,100 ($42/sheet or 1.31/sf)

I went with quote 3 and it took a total of 115 man hours over 7 days (2-3 guys per day)
-2 1/2 days to hang
-1 day for tape/corner bead
-2 1/2 days mudding/sanding
-1 day sanding/texture/cleanup

Assuming materials were in the $600 range, the guys wound up making about $13/hr. You would have to pay me a lot more than that to do the work they did.
post #54 of 207
Economy must be rebounding if people are charging rates like that.
post #55 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

So, there will be more quotes, then?

Yeah I had one guy here today and I will call several more!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadez336 View Post

What's your square footage? I just got my 1100sq ft basement done several months ago for $2500 and that's including drywall, hung, taped, mud and entire basement primed. You definitely need to shop around. The guy quoted me $16 a sheet ($8 hung and $8 taped). If I remember correctly he used 85-90 sheets.

Sq ft of the basement is about 800 sq ft and the scary thing you can knock about 75-100 for the bathroom and storage room. I purchased 109 sheets considering I would want some extra for the bathroom + waste + possibly another layer on the theater ceiling

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I had about 1600 sf (50 sheets) installed last month, which included hanging, taping, mudding & texture.

Quote 1: $5,500 ($110/sheet or $3.43/sf)
Quote 2: $2,600 ($52/sheet or $1.62/sf)
Quote 3: $2,100 ($42/sheet or 1.31/sf)

I went with quote 3 and it took a total of 115 man hours over 7 days (2-3 guys per day)
-2 1/2 days to hang
-1 day for tape/corner bead
-2 1/2 days mudding/sanding
-1 day sanding/texture/cleanup

Assuming materials were in the $600 range, the guys wound up making about $13/hr. You would have to pay me a lot more than that to do the work they did.

Maybe I should fly your guys up to NJ...might cost me less. I already spent about $1,000 on drywall

Quote:
Originally Posted by willscam View Post

Economy must be rebounding if people are charging rates like that.

Yeah I nearly fell out of my seat reading the e-mail. I wrote back what would be the cost if I supplied the screws, tape, mud, etc and they wrote back "That is the labor only price"
post #56 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Yeah I had one guy here today and I will call several more!



Sq ft of the basement is about 800 sq ft and the scary thing you can knock about 75-100 for the bathroom and storage room. I purchased 109 sheets considering I would want some extra for the bathroom + waste + possibly another layer on the theater ceiling



Maybe I should fly your guys up to NJ...might cost me less. I already spent about $1,000 on drywall



Yeah I nearly fell out of my seat reading the e-mail. I wrote back what would be the cost if I supplied the screws, tape, mud, etc and they wrote back "That is the labor only price"

Seems excessive.
post #57 of 207
Wow, that seems really high!! I have approx. 1100 sqft to finish in my basement and I plan to just have someone in to mud/tape/texture (ceiling). Was hoping to be around $1K-$1.3K for just that. I purchased the drywall and will hang it myself.
post #58 of 207
Looks like this is going to be a great build.. subscribing.

Love the tools list - never saw that before, nice touch.

Knowing how anal I am, (in my future build) I'll probably end up doing the drywall myself and regret it throughout the whole process.. until it is complete, then I will be happy. I just did a bathroom floor for the first time (some sub-floor rot and complete tiling), and throughout the whole process my knees and back were yelling.. what the hell are you doing?!?!?! But now that its done, I am pleased with the result and I have another skill added in my quiver of experiences..
post #59 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Any plumbing experts out there? Here is the plumbing for my bar and future bathroom area. Any advice is more than welcomed

Hi Larry, in examining the photos there are a few corrections I would recommend.

In photo #1 & #2, if I am understanding correctly, you will have a bathroom group discharging from the left towards the tee. On the right of the tee is the dry vent directly up to the attic.

If that is correct, you cannot connect the vent like this. There is fancy code language for it, but plain english works best. What may happen is the waste pipe gets obstructed between the tee and the basement floor, causing fun stuff to back up in the pipe. The backup will progress to the right of the tee into the vent. After the obstruction is cleared, the bathroom group will flush out the pipe to the left of the tee. However, all that fun stuff remains to the right of the tee, and you therefore have no vent for the lower level and no way to clear it (without getting on the roof)

Better to service the future bathroom group with a separate 3" waste and tie in below the bar sink.

It's hard to tell but I think all the piping is 2"?

There are a few differences in permitted fittings for drainage when you jump to 3". Sanitary tees and 1/4 bends cannot be used in some of the ways you have used them if they're 3" (fine for 2" and smaller).

Tim
post #60 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Hi Larry, in examining the photos there are a few corrections I would recommend.

In photo #1 & #2, if I am understanding correctly, you will have a bathroom group discharging from the left towards the tee. On the right of the tee is the dry vent directly up to the attic.

If that is correct, you cannot connect the vent like this. There is fancy code language for it, but plain english works best. What may happen is the waste pipe gets obstructed between the tee and the basement floor, causing fun stuff to back up in the pipe. The backup will progress to the right of the tee into the vent. After the obstruction is cleared, the bathroom group will flush out the pipe to the left of the tee. However, all that fun stuff remains to the right of the tee, and you therefore have no vent for the lower level and no way to clear it (without getting on the roof)

Better to service the future bathroom group with a separate 3" waste and tie in below the bar sink.

It's hard to tell but I think all the piping is 2"?

There are a few differences in permitted fittings for drainage when you jump to 3". Sanitary tees and 1/4 bends cannot be used in some of the ways you have used them if they're 3" (fine for 2" and smaller).

Tim

Hi Tim,

Yes it is all 2" PVC throughout. I did make one change since I posted this in the bathroom location. It isn't what your brought up but figured I would post anyway. This is the stub out for the sink which will be to the left


I'm getting confused when you say "Better to service the future bathroom group with a separate 3" waste and tie in below the bar sink."

I don't have the bathroom planned out yet (2-3 years from now) but I was guessing the waste from the toilet would be 3" pipe underground directly routed to the ejector pit with the shower being tied in before it goes into the put. The sink would be tied into the bar's waste line that comes running through the bathroom and eventually tie in underground to the shower. The vent from the sink would connect to where I have the stub out in the picture above.

For the toilet vent I was imagining something like this: a 3" waste tied directly to the ejector pit, with a 3" Y with that has a connection coming out of the concrete with another Y with a cleanout then reduced to a 2" running vertically to the 2" vent pipe I have have hanging by the zip tie in this picture


Something like this except the cleanout would be above the concrete and there wouldn't be a sink waste line connected to it. (I think this makes it a dry vent then?)

or
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