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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 371

post #11101 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000 View Post

ES8000 owners, do you have your HDMI black level set to NORMAL or LOW for xbox360 gaming ? My panel seems to want to default to LOW and it looks better than normal which looks very washed out.

1000

I run all the processing I can off for gaming on PS3.
post #11102 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000 View Post

ES8000 owners, do you have your HDMI black level set to NORMAL or LOW for xbox360 gaming ? My panel seems to want to default to LOW and it looks better than normal which looks very washed out.

1000
LOW. I think somewhere in the settings you can force the 360 to do rgb 0-255 but there is no point
post #11103 of 16125
Here's an article that talks about the Netflix "Super HD" is says that some Samsung TVs may not display the "Super HD" next to the titles, but that they still may be getting the Super HD

http://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&id=1359634823

I asked this yesterday, but no one responded. Does anyone know how I can get my TV and my Onkyo receiver to turn on together and go right to the "Cable" source rather than the TV source on my Onkyo? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I have the "Any-net" connected on the Samsung so I can have them both turn on and off with each other, but I have to keep changing my Onkyo to "TV". Is this normal? Thanks guys..
post #11104 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Op's Guy View Post

I run all the processing I can off for gaming on PS3.

Ops guy,

I think you said your located in Kansas, so I've been meaning to ask you if you have the "Google Fiber" there? I heard its only In Kansas right now. This is something i hope comes to my states, but am curious if its really that good or not.
post #11105 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

Ops guy,

I think you said your located in Kansas, so I've been meaning to ask you if you have the "Google Fiber" there? I heard its only In Kansas right now. This is something i hope comes to my states, but am curious if its really that good or not.

The infrastructure is in place now for the installation portion to begin. Unfortunately for myself, our neighborhood isn't slated til early 2014 for the service.
post #11106 of 16125
Very cool that your getting it. Thanks.. I haven't heard of any other states getting this except for Kansas frown.gif
post #11107 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by gamermwm View Post

For those of you interested in 3D blurays check out bluray.com (If you don't already know about it). I'll provide a link below that will you take you straight to the Trading Forum which is for members only (you won't be able to see the listings until you sign in). If you're not already a part of the forum it's pretty quick and easy to sign up (and free of course). On that page you'll find the 3D Blu-ray Buy/ Sell/ Trade thread - which is where people seek trades and list their 3D movies for sale

http://forum.blu-ray.com/forumdisplay.php?f=48

I've been a part of the community there for going on 2 years now, and when I first joined most 3D discs went for around $15 there, but I'd say most average around $10 for just the 3D disc now. That way instead of limiting yourself to one $25-30 3D movie once a month, you could go there and get 3 3D discs for that price. It's not uncommon for people to list them at $8 each. And if you're looking for complete combo packs, you'll find them there as well. I've never had one bad trade and most people who trade there are trustworthy. Give it a look if you want.

I don't normally go out of my way to tell people about it because it's kind of my and a handful of others go-to niche for new 3d releases on the cheap. But I like you guys so I thought I'd share the info. Good luck. Disclaimer: Please note that I am not advertising anything here as bluray.com is not a retail site. It's a lot like AVS but with various bluray centric threads for bluray movie & hardware enthusiasts

Thanks for the tip! I did peruse the site and a lot of the prices are high - - you can buy them new from Amazon or on eBay for less.

Not trying to be negative - - it's still a great site to trade 3D discs if you look for values. Thanks for posting.
post #11108 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

I'm going to leave whoever cares hanging until I post my changes tomorrow, but I readjusted Movie mode and both my Standard modes (one diminishing the dreaded CE Dimming) tonight. I found some interesting changes that were bothering me, like my Movie and Standard modes no longer matching after the firmware update. I love both modes even more now than I did at any point since buying the TV. No clipping and no crushing. For those that don't have meters but do use a disc or the awesome new THX app, there is at least one AVS file that I feel is a much - the Color Clipping file. You might be surprised what you find. I use it every time. Anyway, I used The WOW BD, the THX app and the AVS files. I have to get up in less than 5 hours though so I'm off to bed for now. I'll be nice and do an actual repost of each of the three sets of settings, but as always the link in my signature will automatically link back to the current settings I use - starting tomorrow at some point.

So I'll update my normal settings post on page 117 and the link in my signature will continue to work, but I will post all three of the updated settings I use for the firmware released this month with U.S. number 1046.2. These are the three sets of settings below.
Movie Mode
Standard Mode
Standard Mode counteracting CE Dimming


So I'm still not sure why Movie mode's flahlighting etc looks better and more in line with Standard's. The previous update was the first time I had to really change my contrast and gamma, so it was nice to see those go back to where they were being the previous update was the only one I didn't care for. Now more than ever I wis I had a meter though. That would be fun. Also for the first time, some of my color settings slightly changed, and the actual Color setting was bumped up. This firmware allowed me for the first time to have no color clipping at all, even in Standard while having Standard look almost identical in color to Movie mode. But to do that, I had to change Color Temp in Movie and this is the thing that was confusing me after the update. My norm was Warm 2. After testing everything I realized that what I was seeing that that the same Color Temps didn't match any more in Standard and Movie. I'm not sure why but the best way I can explain it is like this... It appears that that Warm 2 in Movie is now a touch warmer that before (which may explain why some people started to prefer Standard, because Standard's Warm 2 now appears to be a touch cooler than before - they no longer match each other. Without meters, I went with my eyes and decided Standard's Warm 2 was closest to what I had been using. Because of that, I left standard as is, and changed Movie mode to Warm 1 - which appears to be a perfect match for Standard's Warm 2. Odd. Also, as far as Color Space is concerned, I noticed during testing that what I use seems to sit right in between what Auto and Native look like. Anyway, here are my new settings. This week I'll use Movie mode and next week I'll use my second Standard mode (I hate CE Dimming).

Panel HS01

MOVIE
Picture Menu:

Mode: Movie

Backlight: To your liking, mine is 17 when Eco Sensor is used (3 or 4 higher than Standard mode)
Contrast: 98

Brightness: 46
 (Possibly higher if Dynamic Contrast, Black Tone or Black Enhancer is on)
Sharpness: 16
Color: 52

Tint: G50/R50



Screen Adjustment submenu:

Picture Size: Screen Fit (16 x 9 for TV if you don't want possible data visible on top or bottom, this will slightly zoom & degrade picture though)

Position: [no change]



Auto Adjustment submenu: [Grayed out]


3D submenu: N/A



Advanced Settings submenu:

Dynamic Contrast: Off

Black Tone: Dark (Changing Black Tone to Dark, can help with blacks in Movie mode but will crush blacks some, losing some detail)

Flesh Tone: 0

RGB Only Mode: Off

Color Space: Custom

Color Space submenu:
Red: Red 48, Green 0, Blue 0

Green: Red 4, Green 48, Blue 4

Blue: Red 2, Green 6, Blue 40

Yellow: Red 52, Green 50, Blue 4

Cyan: Red 0, Green 50, Blue 51

Magenta: Red 40, Green 6, Blue 44



White Balance submenu:

R-Offset: 26

G-Offset: 26

B-Offset: 23

R-Gain: 25

G-Gain: 30
B-Gain: 5

10p White Balance: On

10p White Balance submenu:

Interval 1: Red 0, Green +1, Blue +1

Interval 2: Red 0, Green 0, Blue +1

Interval 3: Red +2, Green +1, Blue +1

Interval 4: Red +2, Green +1, Blue +1

Interval 5: Red +1, Green +1, Blue +1

Interval 6: Red +2, Green +3, Blue +0

Interval 7: Red +1, Green +1, Blue +0

Interval 8: Red +1, Green +1, Blue +0

Interval 9: Red 0, Green 0, Blue +0

Interval 10: Red 0, Green 0, Blue +0


Gamma: -1
Expert Pattern: Off

xvYCC: Off

Motion Lighting: Off [grayed out]

Black Enhancer: Off

 (On helps blacks with very dark scenes & can be subtle but will have a slight (CE) dimming effect during dark content)

Picture Options submenu:

Color Tone: Warm 1 (Warm 2 before 1046.2 update)

Digital Noise Filter: Off
 (Auto for DirecTV)

MPEG Noise Filter: Off
 (Auto for DirecTV)

HDMI Black Level: Normal (If available, set to Low if picture looks light and cloudy)

Film Mode: Off or Auto 1
Auto Motion Plus: Clear (Off can be less smooth - other settings give more Soap Opera effect and can stutter picture - personal pref)
LED Motion Plus: Off (On is suppose to help with fast motion - I have yet to see it make a difference)

System/ECO Solution:
ECO Sensor: ON
Minimum Backlight Level: To your liking, mine is 4 (can be lower because CE Dimming does not kick on like in Standard)



STANDARD
Picture Menu:

Mode: Standard

Backlight: To your liking, mine is 13 when Eco Sensor is used (3 or 4 lower than Movie mode)
Contrast: 94

Brightness: 46
Sharpness: 16
Color: 51

Tint: G50/R50



Screen Adjustment submenu:

Picture Size: Screen Fit (16 x 9 for TV if you don't want possible data visible on top or bottom, this will slightly zoom & degrade picture though)

Position: [no change]



Auto Adjustment submenu: [Grayed out]


3D submenu: N/A



Advanced Settings submenu:

Dynamic Contrast: Off

Black Tone: Dark

Flesh Tone: 0

RGB Only Mode: Off

Color Space: Custom

Color Space submenu:
Red: Red 48, Green 0, Blue 0

Green: Red 4, Green 48, Blue 4

Blue: Red 2, Green 6, Blue 40

Yellow: Red 52, Green 50, Blue 4

Cyan: Red 0, Green 50, Blue 51

Magenta: Red 40, Green 6, Blue 44



White Balance submenu:

R-Offset: 25

G-Offset: 25

B-Offset: 22

R-Gain: 0
G-Gain: 26

B-Gain: 25

10p White Balance: Off [grayed out]


Gamma: -2
Expert Pattern: Off

xvYCC: Off

Motion Lighting: Off [grayed out]

Black Enhancer: Off

Picture Options submenu:

Color Tone: Warm 2

Digital Noise Filter: Off
 (Auto for DirecTV)

MPEG Noise Filter: Off
 (Auto for DirecTV)

HDMI Black Level: Normal (If available, set to Low if picture looks light and cloudy)

Film Mode: Off or Auto 1 (When available)

Auto Motion Plus: Clear (Off can be less smooth - other settings give more Soap Opera effect and can stutter picture - personal pref)
LED Motion Plus: Off (On is suppose to help with fast motion - I have yet to see it make a difference)

System/ECO Solution:
ECO Sensor: ON
Minimum backlight level: To your liking, mine is 5


10-27-12 STANDARD Update to counteract CE Dimming (whole screen dimming during dark scenes)
Picture Menu:

Mode: Standard

Backlight: To your liking, mine is 13 when Eco Sensor is used (3 or 4 lower than Movie mode)
Contrast: 94

Brightness: 53
Sharpness: 16
Color: 51

Tint: G50/R50



Screen Adjustment submenu:

Picture Size: Screen Fit (16 x 9 for TV if you don't want possible data visible on top or bottom, this will slightly zoom & degrade picture though)

Position: [no change]



Auto Adjustment submenu: [Grayed out]


3D submenu: N/A



Advanced Settings submenu:

Dynamic Contrast: Off

Black Tone: Dark

Flesh Tone: 0

RGB Only Mode: Off

Color Space: Custom

Color Space submenu:
Red: Red 48, Green 0, Blue 0

Green: Red 4, Green 48, Blue 4

Blue: Red 2, Green 6, Blue 40

Yellow: Red 52, Green 50, Blue 4

Cyan: Red 0, Green 50, Blue 51

Magenta: Red 40, Green 6, Blue 44



White Balance submenu:

R-Offset: 18

G-Offset: 18
B-Offset: 15

R-Gain: 0
G-Gain: 26

B-Gain: 25

10p White Balance: Off [grayed out]


Gamma: -2
Expert Pattern: Off

xvYCC: Off

Motion Lighting: Off [grayed out]

Black Enhancer: Off

Picture Options submenu:

Color Tone: Warm 2

Digital Noise Filter: Off
 (Auto for DirecTV)

MPEG Noise Filter: Off
 (Auto for DirecTV)

HDMI Black Level: Normal (If available, set to Low if picture looks light and cloudy)

Film Mode: Off or Auto 1 (When available)

Auto Motion Plus: Clear (Off can be less smooth - other settings give more Soap Opera effect and can stutter picture - personal pref)
LED Motion Plus: Off (On is suppose to help with fast motion - I have yet to see it make a difference)

System/ECO Solution:
ECO Sensor: ON
Minimum backlight level: To your liking, mine is 5
Edited by Garnoch - 1/31/13 at 6:00pm
post #11109 of 16125
Wow! Your settings are so different from mine using the THX app. I was able to keep dynamic contrast on low without any crushing. I was only able to do this though because of this app, because before I used it, It was crushing. I'm wondering if the 7500 is really different now from the 8000. Although, I have my color space at "Auto" and Warm 1 is even a little too warm for me. So I have to use standard now. Before the update though, warm 1 was perfect. I have my color set at 49 just like yours though.

Garnoch, did you notice before you tweaked yours how the default settings are pretty spot on now compared to before the update?
post #11110 of 16125
Well, I'm not saying you can't keep DC on if you like it, I just normally don't care for it so I'm not using it - usually. Sometimes I throw it on though. And many people seem to feel Warm2 and even Warm 1 are too warm, so it doesn't surprise me to hear that people prefer cooler settings. I'm so used to looking at correctly calibrated screens at work that I see it the other way, where most people's sets are too cool. Warm 2 in Movie mode now seems too warm though, and definitely no longer matches Warm 2 in Standard. I do believe our panels won't look identical with the same settings, but I don't think they would be too far off. I think it mostly comes down to what we prefer to see which is totally valid.
post #11111 of 16125
People usually say to always keep D.C and black tone off, but since I heard that those two settings have something to do with the Micro Dimming, I tried my hardest to be able to keep them on without crushing anything. The only way I was able to do that though, was from the THX app. I can't find my Wow disk, so that's all I had to use. Before the update though, I had mine on warm 1 and sometimes even warm 2, but since the update, everything to me looks way too warm now and the only setting that helps with the reds and having it on standard rather than warm. I'm curious to see how Eagles settings are also since the both of you have the 7500 and have both not seen a big difference from the update.

Thanks for posting those though. I'm actually going to try them tonight just to see. I had your settings actually dialed in before the update. Or really close to what you had listed from before, but since then I reset everything to default and was shocked at how close those settings were to be nice. Except for the colors, they were too redish..

I'm just trying to figure out why you, Eagle and some others aren't noticing the difference that I am. To me, its a huge difference. Especially in the black levels and brightness. That other member said when he was at BB they updated the display and saw it right away too and called other salesman to update all of them so they look this good. Its funny that they reacted like that, because that's how I did after I updated mine..lol only I was posting on here rather than calling people smile.gif
Edited by Anthony5362 - 1/31/13 at 7:47am
post #11112 of 16125
Like I said, sometimes I like DC too so that kind of thing is just a personal preference. Nothing clipped or crushed with it on in my settings, though it's on the verge of maybe bumping Brightness up 1, but it was a judgement call it was so close. I took care of the overall red push and slight blue push by adjusting in Color Space, which can't be Custom changed for each Mode, then the slight additional red push in Standard was taken care of with R-Gain in Standard and a slight blue push in Movie was taken care of with B-Gain to allow for no color clipping on the AVS files (which neither WOW nor THX has unfortunately). That THX app is awesome by the way.
post #11113 of 16125
Sorry for the double post here
post #11114 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

So I'll update my normal settings post on page 117 and the link in my signature will continue to work, but I will post all three of the updated settings I use for the firmware released this month with U.S. number 1046.2. These are the three sets of settings below.
Movie Mode
Standard Mode
Standard Mode counteracting CE Dimming


So I'm still not sure why Movie mode's flahlighting etc looks better and more in line with Standard's, but I was right about being able to lower Brightness a touch - by 1. The previous update was the first time I had to really change my contrast and gamma, so it was nice to see those go back to where they were being the previous update was the only one I didn't care for. Now more than ever I wis I had a meter though. That would be fun. Also for the first time, some of my color settings slightly changed, and the actual Color setting was bumped up. This firmware allowed me for the first time to have no color clipping at all, even in Standard while having Standard look almost identical in color to Movie mode. But to do that, I had to change Color Temp in Movie and this is the thing that was confusing me after the update. My norm was Warm 2. After testing everything I realized that what I was seeing that that the same Color Temps didn't match any more in Standard and Movie. I'm not sure why but the best way I can explain it is like this... It appears that that Warm 2 in Movie is now a touch warmer that before (which may explain why some people started to prefer Standard, because Standard's Warm 2 now appears to be a touch cooler than before - they no longer match each other. Without meters, I went with my eyes and decided Standard's Warm 2 was closest to what I had been using. Because of that, I left standard as is, and changed Movie mode to Warm 1 - which appears to be a perfect match for Standard's Warm 2. Odd. Also, as far as Color Space is concerned, I noticed during testing that what I use seems to sit right in between what Auto and Native look like. Anyway, here are my new settings. This week I'll use Movie mode and next week I'll use my second Standard mode (I hate CE Dimming).

Panel HS01

MOVIE
Picture Menu:

Mode: Movie

Backlight: To your liking, mine is 17 (3 or 4 higher than Standard mode)
Contrast: 100

Brightness: 46
 (Possibly higher if Dynamic Contrast, Black Tone or Black Enhancer is on)
Sharpness: 16
Color: 53

Tint: G50/R50



Screen Adjustment submenu:

Picture Size: Screen Fit (16 x 9 for TV if you don't want possible data visible on top or bottom, this will slightly zoom & degrade picture though)

Position: [no change]



Auto Adjustment submenu: [Grayed out]


3D submenu: N/A



Advanced Settings submenu:

Dynamic Contrast: Off

Black Tone: Dark (Changing Black Tone to Dark, can help with blacks in Movie mode but will crush blacks some, losing some detail)

Flesh Tone: 0

RGB Only Mode: Off

Color Space: Custom

Color Space submenu:
Red: Red 48, Green 0, Blue 0

Green: Red 4, Green 48, Blue 4

Blue: Red 2, Green 6, Blue 40

Yellow: Red 52, Green 50, Blue 4

Cyan: Red 0, Green 50, Blue 51

Magenta: Red 40, Green 6, Blue 44



White Balance submenu:

R-Offset: 26

G-Offset: 26

B-Offset: 23

R-Gain: 25

G-Gain: 30
B-Gain: 5

10p White Balance: On

10p White Balance submenu:

Interval 1: Red 0, Green +1, Blue +1

Interval 2: Red 0, Green 0, Blue +1

Interval 3: Red +2, Green +1, Blue +1

Interval 4: Red +2, Green +1, Blue +1

Interval 5: Red +1, Green +1, Blue +1

Interval 6: Red +2, Green +3, Blue +3

Interval 7: Red +1, Green +1, Blue +2

Interval 8: Red +1, Green +1, Blue +3

Interval 9: Red 0, Green 0, Blue +3

Interval 10: Red 0, Green 0, Blue +3




Gamma: -1
Expert Pattern: Off

xvYCC: Off

Motion Lighting: Off [grayed out]

Black Enhancer: Off

 (On helps blacks with very dark scenes & can be subtle but will have a slight (CE) dimming effect during dark content)

Picture Options submenu:

Color Tone: Warm 1 (Warm 2 before 1046.2 update)

Digital Noise Filter: Off
 (Auto for DirecTV)

MPEG Noise Filter: Off
 (Auto for DirecTV)

HDMI Black Level: Normal (If available, set to Low if picture looks light and cloudy)

Film Mode: Off or Auto 1
Auto Motion Plus: Clear (Off can be less smooth - other settings give more Soap Opera effect and can stutter picture - personal pref)
LED Motion Plus: Off (On is suppose to help with fast motion - I have yet to see it make a difference)

System/ECO Solution:
ECO Sensor: ON
Minimum Backlight Level: To your liking, mine is 4 (can be lower because CE Dimming does not kick on like in Standard)



STANDARD
Picture Menu:

Mode: Standard

Backlight: To your liking, mine is 13 (3 or 4 lower than Movie mode)
Contrast: 97

Brightness: 46
Sharpness: 16
Color: 49

Tint: G50/R50



Screen Adjustment submenu:

Picture Size: Screen Fit (16 x 9 for TV if you don't want possible data visible on top or bottom, this will slightly zoom & degrade picture though)

Position: [no change]



Auto Adjustment submenu: [Grayed out]


3D submenu: N/A



Advanced Settings submenu:

Dynamic Contrast: Off

Black Tone: Low

Flesh Tone: 0

RGB Only Mode: Off

Color Space: Custom

Color Space submenu:
Red: Red 48, Green 0, Blue 0

Green: Red 4, Green 48, Blue 4

Blue: Red 2, Green 6, Blue 40

Yellow: Red 52, Green 50, Blue 4

Cyan: Red 0, Green 50, Blue 51

Magenta: Red 40, Green 6, Blue 44



White Balance submenu:

R-Offset: 25

G-Offset: 25

B-Offset: 22

R-Gain: 0
G-Gain: 26

B-Gain: 25

10p White Balance: Off [grayed out]


Gamma: -2
Expert Pattern: Off

xvYCC: Off

Motion Lighting: Off [grayed out]

Black Enhancer: Off

Picture Options submenu:

Color Tone: Warm 2

Digital Noise Filter: Off
 (Auto for DirecTV)

MPEG Noise Filter: Off
 (Auto for DirecTV)

HDMI Black Level: Normal (If available, set to Low if picture looks light and cloudy)

Film Mode: Off or Auto 1 (When available)

Auto Motion Plus: Clear (Off can be less smooth - other settings give more Soap Opera effect and can stutter picture - personal pref)
LED Motion Plus: Off (On is suppose to help with fast motion - I have yet to see it make a difference)

System/ECO Solution:
ECO Sensor: ON
Minimum backlight level: To your liking, mine is 5


10-27-12 STANDARD Update to counteract CE Dimming (whole screen dimming during dark scenes)
Picture Menu:

Mode: Standard

Backlight: To your liking, mine is 13 (3 or 4 lower than Movie mode)
Contrast: 97

Brightness: 53
Sharpness: 16
Color: 49

Tint: G50/R50



Screen Adjustment submenu:

Picture Size: Screen Fit (16 x 9 for TV if you don't want possible data visible on top or bottom, this will slightly zoom & degrade picture though)

Position: [no change]



Auto Adjustment submenu: [Grayed out]


3D submenu: N/A



Advanced Settings submenu:

Dynamic Contrast: Off

Black Tone: Low

Flesh Tone: 0

RGB Only Mode: Off

Color Space: Custom

Color Space submenu:
Red: Red 48, Green 0, Blue 0

Green: Red 4, Green 48, Blue 4

Blue: Red 2, Green 6, Blue 40

Yellow: Red 52, Green 50, Blue 4

Cyan: Red 0, Green 50, Blue 51

Magenta: Red 40, Green 6, Blue 44



White Balance submenu:

R-Offset: 18

G-Offset: 18
B-Offset: 15

R-Gain: 0
G-Gain: 26

B-Gain: 25

10p White Balance: Off [grayed out]


Gamma: -2
Expert Pattern: Off

xvYCC: Off

Motion Lighting: Off [grayed out]

Black Enhancer: Off

Picture Options submenu:

Color Tone: Warm 2

Digital Noise Filter: Off
 (Auto for DirecTV)

MPEG Noise Filter: Off
 (Auto for DirecTV)

HDMI Black Level: Normal (If available, set to Low if picture looks light and cloudy)

Film Mode: Off or Auto 1 (When available)

Auto Motion Plus: Clear (Off can be less smooth - other settings give more Soap Opera effect and can stutter picture - personal pref)
LED Motion Plus: Off (On is suppose to help with fast motion - I have yet to see it make a difference)

System/ECO Solution:
ECO Sensor: ON
Minimum backlight level: To your liking, mine is 5

I'm replying to this so your settings don't get knocked off this page.. Yes, that app is great! A little limited though, but can't complain. Hey man, so long as your happy. You have always been pretty happy with the set though. Its just the blacks now are so black! Lol! Me on the other hand wasn't too happy with my 65" ever since the last couple of updates. I was really happy for a while back in Oct I think, and then came an update that made my pic dull and lifeless. I think Rico saw this also, and that's when Nitra recommend a reset, but that didn't help either, so its been a while since I was this happy again.
Edited by Anthony5362 - 1/31/13 at 8:20am
post #11115 of 16125
Does anybody have any suggestions on how to reduce 3D crosstalk while gaming on this TV? Movies are fine but games seem to push the 3D a bit more in terms of depth.
post #11116 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkcohen View Post

What resolution is your Apple TV outputting? What colorspace is it outputting?

1080p I've tried RGB and Auto same thing.
post #11117 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by CeeJayII View Post

Does anybody have any suggestions on how to reduce 3D crosstalk while gaming on this TV? Movies are fine but games seem to push the 3D a bit more in terms of depth.

I can't help with this one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by digimat View Post

1080p I've tried RGB and Auto same thing.

My Apple TV requires normal too. Is there a reason you'd want to change it, Digimat?
post #11118 of 16125
My Apple TV requires normal too. Is there a reason you'd want to change it, Digimat?[/quote]

No, I was just stating that HDMI-level is greyed out no matter what color space I select... I'm pretty sure it defaults to low as blacks pretty solid.

Garnoch what process do you use to calibrate your set? I'm only wondering as I went through THX app the other night and my color is perfect around 45.... 53 seems pretty high...
post #11119 of 16125
Mine is greyed out on Normal, so I think blacks look solid because it doesn't require it to be on low similar to my Blu-ray player. But my DirecTV DVR and Wii U are not greyed out and required being set on Low in order to not be washed out.

If you have the app or any discs or files, things like the actual Color slider, Contrast and Brightness I think should be set for your own panel. If you don't, and don't plan on hiring someone, I'd say try a bunch of people's settings until you're happy. As for mine, I was a little surprised by the change in Movie mode up to 53 too. Before the previous update, I was at 50, then I had lowered it to 48, but with the latest update, anything between 52 and 54 looked right, and with zero color clipping on the AVS files. I chose going in the middle. Even at 48 on the previous update, I had a touch of clipping. Before the THX app, I'd used the WOW disc and AVS files. This time I used all three. Remember this is just for Movie mode. Standard mode could have stayed where it was at 48 or gone to 49. Both seemed about right. I went to 49. I usually stay on the conservative side rather than the "pop" side, partially to avoid clipping, so like I said, I was surprised too.
post #11120 of 16125
Garnoch, thanks for your updates, with the standard workaround settings you say Black tone Low when my options are dark, darker and darkest?

This kind of works for me set on darkest or else the blacks aren't black enough but I need colour tone set to standard also or else the whites are too yellow.

I'm really wanting the workaround to look good but I'm not convinced it looks as good as what I'm using already
post #11121 of 16125
AHHHHHHH, thanks. Meant Dark. I'll change that.
post #11122 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

That's actually one of the biggest misconceptions regarding these TVs. Most people think they need a source device that is going to upscale so they get a better picture, which in most cases is simply not true. The thing that most people don't realize is that your TV is already upscaling any signal it gets to 1080P, unless the source signal is already 1080P. The fact of the matter is that the TV will almost always do a better job of upscaling than your device will. I used to NEVER let any of my devices do the upscaling. I now however let my new Elite AVR do the upscaling because I believe it probably does a better job than the TV would. Probably not by much, but hey...

So, you should never let any device upscale the signal unless you believe it will do a better job than the TV will on it's own, which it normally won't, unless you have good equipment with very good video processing.

Now that is out of the way (until people start disagreeing with me), even though your source on your 60" isn't dong any upscaling, your TV is, and does a very good job of it.
Say you have an upscaling AVR, but you don't want to use it to upscale, you want to use the TV. How do you accomplish that? You have to plug all of your sources into the AVR and the AVR to a single HDMI input on the TV. So how do you "shot off" the upscaling feature in the AVR?
post #11123 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebignewt View Post

Say you have an upscaling AVR, but you don't want to use it to upscale, you want to use the TV. How do you accomplish that? You have to plug all of your sources into the AVR and the AVR to a single HDMI input on the TV. So how do you "shot off" the upscaling feature in the AVR?

Take the Onkyo for example. If you set each source to Direct, it passes the original signal. If you set it to Through, it upscales to 1080p but with no additional processing. Then there are other modes with processing etc.
post #11124 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Take the Onkyo for example. If you set each source to Direct, it passes the original signal. If you set it to Through, it upscales to 1080p but with no additional processing. Then there are other modes with processing etc.
My Yamaha doesn't upscale so I guess there's nothing to change. Your revised Standard (the last one) says Brightness 53, Movie Brightness 46. But 4 posts above you said you have Movie at 53 and Standard at 49. Which is it?
post #11125 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Take the Onkyo for example. If you set each source to Direct, it passes the original signal. If you set it to Through, it upscales to 1080p but with no additional processing. Then there are other modes with processing etc.

The same holds true for Yamaha. I don't allow my avr or blu-ray to do any processing at all. I just have them send the original signal to my calibrated panel. The pq is what it is based on the quality of the source.
post #11126 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by digimat View Post



1080p I've tried RGB and Auto same thing.

Film Mode will be grayed out for 1080p.

Do you have a receiver between the Apple TV and the display?
post #11127 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkcohen View Post

Film Mode will be grayed out for 1080p.

Do you have a receiver between the Apple TV and the display?

No, straight connection.... I had the previous apple TV which is 720p and it was greyed out as well.
post #11128 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebignewt View Post

My Yamaha doesn't upscale so I guess there's nothing to change. Your revised Standard (the last one) says Brightness 53, Movie Brightness 46. But 4 posts above you said you have Movie at 53 and Standard at 49. Which is it?

Hey, Newt. Four posts above we were talking about color so the 53/49 are color, not brightness.
post #11129 of 16125
Okay, so here's my settings for standard mode - both 2D and 3D, for anybody that wants to give them a shot. Hope somebody here can find some of the settings useful.


Picture Mode - Standard (2D & Game Mode)

Backlight - 7
Contrast - 96
Brightness - 60
Sharpness - 15
Color - 35
Tint (G/R) - 50/50

(Advanced Settings)

Dynamic Contrast - Low
Black Tone - Off
Flesh Tone - +5
Color Space - Auto
10p White Balance - Off (greyed out)
Gamma - 0
Motion Lighting - Off
Black Enhancer - Off (greyed out)

(White Balance)

R-Offset - 3
G-Offset - 7
B-Offset - 7
R-Gain - 5
G-Gain - 25
B-Gain - 27

(Picture Options)

Color Tone - Standard
Digital Noise -Filer - Off
MPEG Noise Filter - Off
Auto Motion Plus - Off/Clear
LED Motion Plus - Off




Picture Mode - Standard (3D)

Backlight - 15
Contrast - 92
Brightness - 60
Sharpness - 15
Color - 35
Tint (G/R) - 50/50

(Advanced Settings)

Dynamic Contrast - Low
Black Tone - Dark
Flesh Tone - 0
Color Space - Auto
10p White Balance - Off (greyed out)
Gamma - 0
Motion Lighting - Off (greyed out)
Black Enhancer - Off (greyed out)

(White Balance)

R-Offset - 2
G-Offset - 8
B-Offset - 8
R-Gain - 2
G-Gain - 30
B-Gain - 25

(Picture Options)

Color Tone - Cool
Digital Noise -Filer - Off
MPEG Noise Filter - Off
Auto Motion Plus - Off/Clear (greyed out for 3D game mode)
LED Motion Plus - Off (greyed out)




(System)

Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC) - Off


(Eco Solution)

Energy Saving - Off
Eco Sensor - Off
Auto Power Off - Off


(General)

BD Wise - Off
Menu Transparency - High
Sound Feedback - Off
Panel Lock - Off
Boot Logo - Off
Light Effect - Off


A few notes:


- Dynamic Contrast - this is a personal choice. I find sometimes it is helpful, other times it does more harm than good. Generally, I'm finding it seems to improve many of the scenes I test it with - but only on low. Any higher and you're affecting the image in a negative way.

- Black Tone - this is really best left off in my opinion, but it can introduce a bit of improvement in dark areas on the lowest (Dark) setting, at the expense of some minor black crush. Any higher than Dark and you're really starting to crush the black tones pretty bad.

- Auto Motion Plus - Another personal choice - many hate the "soap opera effect" caused by the motion interpolation, some like it. I hate it personally for most regular viewing. In 3D it is sometimes useful, and I have noticed the soap opera effect isn't very noticeable in 3D mode when clear is selected. Clear in general seems to offer the best combination of mild motion interpolation (for motion smoothing), and blur reduction, with the least amount of artifacts and soap opera effect. Clear also seems to be the only mode for many that doesn't introduce stuttering. This can be played with as desired.

- 3D settings - The settings here are designed to compensate for the color tint in my 2011 Samsung glasses. When the glasses are off the image looks way off-color due to the cool color settings, but this is so that when the glasses are turned on, the color balances out through the warm tinting of the lenses. Give the your eyes a couple minutes to adjust to the color when switching over to 3D mode - the immediate change can appear quite drastic until your eyes adjust, but these settings seem to produce good results for me, with color that appears similar to 2D mode once my eyes adjust. The brightness is also much higher to compensate for the dark tint of the glasses. Black tone is used here on low to help improve the blacks - this seems to be a benefit in 3D mode to help the blacks appear deeper.

- Auto-Dimming workaround - my settings may appear quite drastic in general - the brightness is considerably higher than you might normally expect - that is to employ the "CE-Dimming workaround" discovered by another member of the forum and discussed previously. To compensate for the high brightness, the White Balance offsets are reduced drastically to counteract the brightness gain of bumping the brightness so high. The effect is that the "CE-Dimming" that so many dislike is virtually eliminated - under most any viewing material, the screen no longer auto-dims with darker material. It also doesn't turn off the screen when the panel displays all black. At the same time, because this is standard mode, you get the benefit of having a lower backlight setting, keeping clouding and flashlighting to a minimum, and you also get the benefits of Micro-Dimming, which is unavailable in movie mode.

- To my eyes, this combination of settings provides the best viewing experience with my ES7500. The ES8000 offers additional scanning zones for Micro-Dimming, which may result in a somewhat different experience than with the ES7500. Everybody sees color differently, and has different preferences. The color in particular may seem under-saturated for some. In my experience, people often seem to have their sets over-saturated, to my eyes. Of course that's up to each viewer, but I like a very natural-looking image, with flesh tones that appear real, not over-saturated. If my color setting appears too under-saturated, just bump it up to your liking. This is the one area where I deviated from the WOW and AVS discs - it said I could go higher with my color saturation, but I just don't like the color that high personally. For games and animation, that's a different story. I like it higher. My set , like many it seems, also has a quite drastic red push to the color tone. That is why the R-Gain and R-Offset is particularly low in my settings - to counteract the red push. Also, color tone is a personal preference. My color settings with the offsets and gain look good with both standard and warm1 color tones - more often I prefer standard color tone.


- These settings give me very good results using the Disney WOW disc for reference. Dynamic Contrast and Black Tone, as well as all other image enhancements, were left off during my adjustments with the WOW disc. Off course, due to Micro-Dimming, it is impossible to know exactly what is being done to the image in general when using something like the WOW disc in standard mode.
Edited by eagle_2 - 1/31/13 at 12:46pm
post #11130 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

Thanks for the tip! I did peruse the site and a lot of the prices are high - - you can buy them new from Amazon or on eBay for less.

Not trying to be negative - - it's still a great site to trade 3D discs if you look for values. Thanks for posting.

Hey Rico, your post puzzles me. Are you talking about the site links at the top of the "select a thread" forum pages? Those are just their sponsored movie links to Amazon

I was talking specifically about the 3D Buy/Sell/Trade Thread. There's nowhere else that I know of that you can find people selling their 3D discs for around $10 each. A few examples of prices members are currently offering: Spiderman 3D disc $11, Prometheus 3d disc only $10, Avengers 3D Disc in case. - $10 + $2 ship. Frankenweenie 3D disc only $13 shipped, Madagascar 3 $13, Prometheus 3d combo pack Sealed 16.50, John Carter 3d COMPLETE combo pack with slip - $17. You can't beat those prices anywhere

Here's the link to the thread directly, you must be a member to see:
http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=159288&page=34
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