Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 372

Originally Posted by eagle_2 

Okay, so here's my settings for standard mode - both 2D and 3D, for anybody that wants to give them a shot. Hope somebody here can find some of the settings useful.


Picture Mode - Standard (2D & Game Mode)

Backlight - 7
Contrast - 96
Brightness - 60
Sharpness - 15
Color - 35
Tint (G/R) - 50/50

(Advanced Settings)

Dynamic Contrast - Low
Black Tone - Off
Flesh Tone - +5
Color Space - Auto
10p White Balance - Off (greyed out)
Gamma - 0
Motion Lighting - Off
Black Enhancer - Off (greyed out)

(White Balance)

R-Offset - 3
G-Offset - 7
B-Offset - 7
R-Gain - 5
G-Gain - 25
B-Gain - 27

(Picture Options)

Color Tone - Standard
Digital Noise -Filer - Off
MPEG Noise Filter - Off
Auto Motion Plus - Off/Clear
LED Motion Plus - Off

---

Picture Mode - Standard (3D)

Backlight - 15
Contrast - 92
Brightness - 60
Sharpness - 15
Color - 35
Tint (G/R) - 50/50

(Advanced Settings)

Dynamic Contrast - Low
Black Tone - Dark
Flesh Tone - 0
Color Space - Auto
10p White Balance - Off (greyed out)
Gamma - 0
Motion Lighting - Off (greyed out)
Black Enhancer - Off (greyed out)

(White Balance)

R-Offset - 2
G-Offset - 8
B-Offset - 8
R-Gain - 2
G-Gain - 30
B-Gain - 25

(Picture Options)

Color Tone - Cool
Digital Noise -Filer - Off
MPEG Noise Filter - Off
Auto Motion Plus - Off/Clear (greyed out for 3D game mode)
LED Motion Plus - Off (greyed out)

---

(System)

Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC) - Off


(Eco Solution)

Energy Saving - Off
Eco Sensor - Off
Auto Power Off - Off


(General)

BD Wise - Off
Menu Transparency - High
Sound Feedback - Off
Panel Lock - Off
Boot Logo - Off
Light Effect - Off


A few notes:


- Dynamic Contrast - this is a personal choice. I find sometimes it is helpful, other times it does more harm than good. Generally, I'm finding it seems to improve many of the scenes I test it with - but only on low. Any higher and you're affecting the image in a negative way.

- Black Tone - this is really best left off in my opinion, but it can introduce a bit of improvement in dark areas on the lowest (Dark) setting, at the expense of some minor black crush. Any higher than Dark and you're really starting to crush the black tones pretty bad.

- Auto Motion Plus - Another personal choice - many hate the "soap opera effect" caused by the motion interpolation, some like it. I hate it personally for most regular viewing. In 3D it is sometimes useful, and I have noticed the soap opera effect isn't very noticeable in 3D mode when clear is selected. Clear in general seems to offer the best combination of mild motion interpolation (for motion smoothing), and blur reduction, with the least amount of artifacts and soap opera effect. Clear also seems to be the only mode for many that doesn't introduce stuttering. This can be played with as desired.

- 3D settings - The settings here are designed to compensate for the color tint in my 2011 Samsung glasses. When the glasses are off the image looks way off-color due to the cool color settings, but this is so that when the glasses are turned on, the color balances out through the warm tinting of the lenses. Give the your eyes a couple minutes to adjust to the color when switching over to 3D mode - the immediate change can appear quite drastic until your eyes adjust, but these settings seem to produce good results for me, with color that appears similar to 2D mode once my eyes adjust. The brightness is also much higher to compensate for the dark tint of the glasses. Black tone is used here on low to help improve the blacks - this seems to be a benefit in 3D mode to help the blacks appear deeper.

- Auto-Dimming workaround - my settings may appear quite drastic in general - the brightness is considerably higher than you might normally expect - that is to employ the "CE-Dimming workaround" discovered by another member of the forum and discussed previously. To compensate for the high brightness, the White Balance offsets are reduced drastically to counteract the brightness gain of bumping the brightness so high. The effect is that the "CE-Dimming" that so many dislike is virtually eliminated - under most any viewing material, the screen no longer auto-dims with darker material. It also doesn't turn off the screen when the panel displays all black. At the same time, because this is standard mode, you get the benefit of having a lower backlight setting, keeping clouding and flashlighting to a minimum, and you also get the benefits of Micro-Dimming, which is unavailable in movie mode.

- To my eyes, this combination of settings provides the best viewing experience with my ES7500. The ES8000 offers additional scanning zones for Micro-Dimming, which may result in a somewhat different experience than with the ES7500. Everybody sees color differently, and has different preferences. The color in particular may seem under-saturated for some. In my experience, people often seem to have their sets over-saturated, to my eyes. Of course that's up to each viewer, but I like a very natural-looking image, with flesh tones that appear real, not over-saturated. If my color setting appears too under-saturated, just bump it up to your liking. This is the one area where I deviated from the WOW and AVS discs - it said I could go higher with my color saturation, but I just don't like the color that high personally. For games and animation, that's a different story. I like it higher. My set , like many it seems, also has a quite drastic red push to the color tone. That is why the R-Gain and R-Offset is particularly low in my settings - to counteract the red push. Also, color tone is a personal preference. My color settings with the offsets and gain look good with both standard and warm1 color tones - more often I prefer standard color tone.


- These settings give me very good results using the Disney WOW disc for reference. Dynamic Contrast and Black Tone, as well as all other image enhancements, were left off during my adjustments with the WOW disc. Off course, due to Micro-Dimming, it is impossible to know exactly what is being done to the image in general when using something like the WOW disc in standard mode.

Originally Posted by nick-t 

The ES8000 is in, the GT50 is out. Now to update the firmware and try some of your settings out there.

One question, how are you guys arrviing at such detailed decisions on Gamma, Custom Color, and 10p White Balance without a meter?

Originally Posted by digimat 

No, straight connection.... I had the previous apple TV which is 720p and it was greyed out as well.

Originally Posted by nick-t 

The ES8000 is in, the GT50 is out. Now to update the firmware and try some of your settings out there.

One question, how are you guys arrviing at such detailed decisions on Gamma, Custom Color, and 10p White Balance without a meter?

Originally Posted by sharkcohen 

I tried the THX app out, it's alright. I would suggest not using the camera and phone display for the color tests, though. Rather, use the RGB color modes on the display and adjust the color settings by viewing the pattern directly on the display. You cannot count on the camera and phone display to produce the correct colors.

My recommendation would be to pick up a good Blu-ray calibration disc. I use and recommend the Spears And Munsil disc. I haven't tried the Disney disc, you guys have me interested in checking it out.

Originally Posted by Anthony5362 

I came across this today. It was posted right before they released the ES8000 to the public. What's interesting, is that it shows that are model had the "Smart LED" and "Cinema Black" settings around this time. This is very interesting. What's also Interesting is that these TVs were supposed to come with Google TV search and a QWERTY Remote, but they scratched this at the last minute I guess. I don't remember this though, so this comes at a surprise to me. These calibrated settings in this article are very old though. I don't even think they will work now. That's just a guess though.

http://reviews.lcdtvbuyingguide.com/samsung-lcd-tv/samsung-es8000-picturesettings.html

Originally Posted by Jestered 

I used to adjust my color and tint that way too, but I don't think that's the right way to do it. My thoughts on why... When you bring up the test patterns on the TV, you're no longer adjusting to the source, but the TV instead. By doing that your color and tint will be calibrated properly for how the TV is displaying those things, but may be off compared to what the source is actually displaying. It seemed to be off more than just a little too. So, if you're only using the TV with an OTA antenna, then using the TVs test pattern to set the color and tint is fine, but will probably not be set up correct if you're using another source input.

That's my though anyway...

Originally Posted by gamermwm 

Hey Rico, your post puzzles me. Are you talking about the site links at the top of the "select a thread" forum pages? Those are just their sponsored movie links to Amazon

I was talking specifically about the 3D Buy/Sell/Trade Thread. There's nowhere else that I know of that you can find people selling their 3D discs for around $10 each. A few examples of prices members are currently offering: Spiderman 3D disc $11, Prometheus 3d disc only $10, Avengers 3D Disc in case. - $10 + $2 ship. Frankenweenie 3D disc only $13 shipped, Madagascar 3 $13, Prometheus 3d combo pack Sealed 16.50, John Carter 3d COMPLETE combo pack with slip - $17. You can't beat those prices anywhere

Here's the link to the thread directly, you must be a member to see:
http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=159288&page=34

Originally Posted by Jestered 

I used to adjust my color and tint that way too, but I don't think that's the right way to do it. My thoughts on why... When you bring up the test patterns on the TV, you're no longer adjusting to the source, but the TV instead. By doing that your color and tint will be calibrated properly for how the TV is displaying those things, but may be off compared to what the source is actually displaying. It seemed to be off more than just a little too. So, if you're only using the TV with an OTA antenna, then using the TVs test pattern to set the color and tint is fine, but will probably not be set up correct if you're using another source input.

That's my though anyway...

Originally Posted by sharkcohen 

My goal is in fact to calibrate the display. I set my devices to do as little or no video processing as possible. If the source device is changing what the content should look like, then the device is doing something wrong, in my opinion.

I always get my displays professionally calibrated by http://www.accucalhd.com/, user umr here on the forum. I've got a February appointment setup for my ES8000. umr does great work.

Originally Posted by Ricoflashback 

Gamermwm - I'm at the right place. And you can definitely find deals - - I'm just saying that some of the folks are selling 3D discs for the same price or even over Amazon. (Which means always check to see online prices to verify you're getting the best deal.)

That being said, I am going to try it out - - especially if I can get Frankeweenie for $13.00! (That's what Garnoch and Anthony call me anyway!)

Thanks again for the post and link!

Originally Posted by digimat 

Are you using the MD workaround with these settings? 60 is far to high if not... also your's is the first post I've seen with flesh tone changed let alone at +5....

I used the THX app last night and my tint needed to be adjusted slightly to the green side...

Originally Posted by Garnoch 

Only to your face - Behind your back, it's Tinyweenie.

Originally Posted by Garnoch 

Great link because the fact that it lists Smart LED and Cinema Black is very interesting. Is it possible that the hardware required is there then but just not active?

Originally Posted by Anthony5362 

I came across this today. It was posted right before they released the ES8000 to the public. What's interesting, is that it shows that are model had the "Smart LED" and "Cinema Black" settings around this time. This is very interesting. What's also Interesting is that these TVs were supposed to come with Google TV search and a QWERTY Remote, but they scratched this at the last minute I guess. I don't remember this though, so this comes at a surprise to me. These calibrated settings in this article are very old though. I don't even think they will work now. That's just a guess though.

http://reviews.lcdtvbuyingguide.com/samsung-lcd-tv/samsung-es8000-picturesettings.html

Originally Posted by 1000 

ES8000 owners, do you have your HDMI black level set to NORMAL or LOW for xbox360 gaming ? My panel seems to want to default to LOW and it looks better than normal which looks very washed out.

1000

Originally Posted by Anthony5362 

Eagle, when I used the THX app, it showed me that I needed my Contrast to be at 75-78 anything above that was too washed out. Before this update though, I had my contrast set at 94-97

Originally Posted by eagle_2 

Can somebody maybe answer this for me? I was just checking out the AVS "color clipping" pattern with my posted settings. With my color at 35, color clipping looks good. Virtually all the bars are visible. I will mention also that my contrast at 96 is just right according to the WOW pattern for white clipping.

Now here's what's weird. If I put my color saturation up to where the AVS "flashing color bars" says it "should" be, which is 48 for me, then the color clipping pattern is off the charts - virtually all the color bars are gone. For me to leave the color on 48 and get the color clipping bars to not clip, I need to bring my contrast down to like 70-75, which is not right because then using the white clipping pattern from the WOW disc, all the stars that shouldn't be visible are visible, and the screen appears too dull, indicating that the contrast needs to go higher. 96 is where my contrast needs to be according to WOW, but that totally blows out the color clipping pattern for the AVS disc if I leave my color on 48.

I like my color around 35 anyways, and at that setting, the color clipping pattern and white clipping pattern are both fine. But it's weird that if I put my color where it "should" be according to the AVS disc, it screws up my color clipping test. Anybody know why? It seems like if I bump up my color I need to dial back on contrast to avoid color clipping, but that just screws up my white clipping since my contrast would actually be too low. I tried adjusting my offsets and gain back to 25, just for testing purposes to see what effect that had on the color clipping pattern, and it actually made virtually no difference - the colors were still clipping big time because of the high contrast and the color at 48 for my tests.

The settings I posted in the last page all look good according to the test patterns I used.

Originally Posted by Anthony5362 

Eagle, just buy an Apple TV, and I ipad or iPod..

Garnoch, did you mean that I could see the 8 different boxes with contrast at 75-78? If so, yes.. Anything above that looked too washed out