or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 372

post #11131 of 16125
The ES8000 is in, the GT50 is out. Now to update the firmware and try some of your settings out there.

One question, how are you guys arrviing at such detailed decisions on Gamma, Custom Color, and 10p White Balance without a meter?
post #11132 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Okay, so here's my settings for standard mode - both 2D and 3D, for anybody that wants to give them a shot. Hope somebody here can find some of the settings useful.


Picture Mode - Standard (2D & Game Mode)

Backlight - 7
Contrast - 96
Brightness - 60
Sharpness - 15
Color - 35
Tint (G/R) - 50/50

(Advanced Settings)

Dynamic Contrast - Low
Black Tone - Off
Flesh Tone - +5
Color Space - Auto
10p White Balance - Off (greyed out)
Gamma - 0
Motion Lighting - Off
Black Enhancer - Off (greyed out)

(White Balance)

R-Offset - 3
G-Offset - 7
B-Offset - 7
R-Gain - 5
G-Gain - 25
B-Gain - 27

(Picture Options)

Color Tone - Standard
Digital Noise -Filer - Off
MPEG Noise Filter - Off
Auto Motion Plus - Off/Clear
LED Motion Plus - Off




Picture Mode - Standard (3D)

Backlight - 15
Contrast - 92
Brightness - 60
Sharpness - 15
Color - 35
Tint (G/R) - 50/50

(Advanced Settings)

Dynamic Contrast - Low
Black Tone - Dark
Flesh Tone - 0
Color Space - Auto
10p White Balance - Off (greyed out)
Gamma - 0
Motion Lighting - Off (greyed out)
Black Enhancer - Off (greyed out)

(White Balance)

R-Offset - 2
G-Offset - 8
B-Offset - 8
R-Gain - 2
G-Gain - 30
B-Gain - 25

(Picture Options)

Color Tone - Cool
Digital Noise -Filer - Off
MPEG Noise Filter - Off
Auto Motion Plus - Off/Clear (greyed out for 3D game mode)
LED Motion Plus - Off (greyed out)




(System)

Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC) - Off


(Eco Solution)

Energy Saving - Off
Eco Sensor - Off
Auto Power Off - Off


(General)

BD Wise - Off
Menu Transparency - High
Sound Feedback - Off
Panel Lock - Off
Boot Logo - Off
Light Effect - Off


A few notes:


- Dynamic Contrast - this is a personal choice. I find sometimes it is helpful, other times it does more harm than good. Generally, I'm finding it seems to improve many of the scenes I test it with - but only on low. Any higher and you're affecting the image in a negative way.

- Black Tone - this is really best left off in my opinion, but it can introduce a bit of improvement in dark areas on the lowest (Dark) setting, at the expense of some minor black crush. Any higher than Dark and you're really starting to crush the black tones pretty bad.

- Auto Motion Plus - Another personal choice - many hate the "soap opera effect" caused by the motion interpolation, some like it. I hate it personally for most regular viewing. In 3D it is sometimes useful, and I have noticed the soap opera effect isn't very noticeable in 3D mode when clear is selected. Clear in general seems to offer the best combination of mild motion interpolation (for motion smoothing), and blur reduction, with the least amount of artifacts and soap opera effect. Clear also seems to be the only mode for many that doesn't introduce stuttering. This can be played with as desired.

- 3D settings - The settings here are designed to compensate for the color tint in my 2011 Samsung glasses. When the glasses are off the image looks way off-color due to the cool color settings, but this is so that when the glasses are turned on, the color balances out through the warm tinting of the lenses. Give the your eyes a couple minutes to adjust to the color when switching over to 3D mode - the immediate change can appear quite drastic until your eyes adjust, but these settings seem to produce good results for me, with color that appears similar to 2D mode once my eyes adjust. The brightness is also much higher to compensate for the dark tint of the glasses. Black tone is used here on low to help improve the blacks - this seems to be a benefit in 3D mode to help the blacks appear deeper.

- Auto-Dimming workaround - my settings may appear quite drastic in general - the brightness is considerably higher than you might normally expect - that is to employ the "CE-Dimming workaround" discovered by another member of the forum and discussed previously. To compensate for the high brightness, the White Balance offsets are reduced drastically to counteract the brightness gain of bumping the brightness so high. The effect is that the "CE-Dimming" that so many dislike is virtually eliminated - under most any viewing material, the screen no longer auto-dims with darker material. It also doesn't turn off the screen when the panel displays all black. At the same time, because this is standard mode, you get the benefit of having a lower backlight setting, keeping clouding and flashlighting to a minimum, and you also get the benefits of Micro-Dimming, which is unavailable in movie mode.

- To my eyes, this combination of settings provides the best viewing experience with my ES7500. The ES8000 offers additional scanning zones for Micro-Dimming, which may result in a somewhat different experience than with the ES7500. Everybody sees color differently, and has different preferences. The color in particular may seem under-saturated for some. In my experience, people often seem to have their sets over-saturated, to my eyes. Of course that's up to each viewer, but I like a very natural-looking image, with flesh tones that appear real, not over-saturated. If my color setting appears too under-saturated, just bump it up to your liking. This is the one area where I deviated from the WOW and AVS discs - it said I could go higher with my color saturation, but I just don't like the color that high personally. For games and animation, that's a different story. I like it higher. My set , like many it seems, also has a quite drastic red push to the color tone. That is why the R-Gain and R-Offset is particularly low in my settings - to counteract the red push. Also, color tone is a personal preference. My color settings with the offsets and gain look good with both standard and warm1 color tones - more often I prefer standard color tone.


- These settings give me very good results using the Disney WOW disc for reference. Dynamic Contrast and Black Tone, as well as all other image enhancements, were left off during my adjustments with the WOW disc. Off course, due to Micro-Dimming, it is impossible to know exactly what is being done to the image in general when using something like the WOW disc in standard mode.

Are you using the MD workaround with these settings? 60 is far to high if not... also your's is the first post I've seen with flesh tone changed let alone at +5....

I used the THX app last night and my tint needed to be adjusted slightly to the green side...
post #11133 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick-t View Post

The ES8000 is in, the GT50 is out. Now to update the firmware and try some of your settings out there.

One question, how are you guys arrviing at such detailed decisions on Gamma, Custom Color, and 10p White Balance without a meter?

That's why I don't touch 10p white balance personally. Well, I don't use movie mode anyways, but since I don't have a meter, or do professional calibrations, I just stick to basic color adjustments, going by eye, That's also why leave gamma on 0.
post #11134 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by digimat View Post

No, straight connection.... I had the previous apple TV which is 720p and it was greyed out as well.

It is possible that the setting on your Apple TV is not doing anything, and that the Apple TV is outputting YCbCr regardless of what you have it set to. In my experience, if HDMI Black Level is grayed out, then you are good to go and are receiving a proper signal from the source for the display.
post #11135 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick-t View Post

The ES8000 is in, the GT50 is out. Now to update the firmware and try some of your settings out there.

One question, how are you guys arrviing at such detailed decisions on Gamma, Custom Color, and 10p White Balance without a meter?

Great question and it's of course impossible but here was my method which I haven't mentioned in a while, though it is in the post on page 117 where my settings link takes you... I tried between 10 and 20 different sets of settings before settling on the basic color, gamma and white balance settings of CNET's calibrations. I settled on that looking the most true simply because I work in television and see uncompressed shows on calibrated monitors every day. I would use certain programs to test all the settings I tried. After settling on that, I would use the WOW disc, AVS files and now THX app to dial in certain settings based on my panel. Like I stated earlier today, the custom color settings I use seem to fall right in the middle of Auto and Native and the 10p settings honestly hardly make a difference but I leave them there because of where I got them from and because I've always been so happy with my Movie mode settings. And congrats! I hope you like it, please let us know your thoughts.


Eagle - thanks for posting yours up too, man.
Edited by Garnoch - 1/31/13 at 1:45pm
post #11136 of 16125
I came across this today. It was posted right before they released the ES8000 to the public. What's interesting, is that it shows that are model had the "Smart LED" and "Cinema Black" settings around this time. This is very interesting. What's also Interesting is that these TVs were supposed to come with Google TV search and a QWERTY Remote, but they scratched this at the last minute I guess. I don't remember this though, so this comes at a surprise to me. These calibrated settings in this article are very old though. I don't even think they will work now. That's just a guess though.

http://reviews.lcdtvbuyingguide.com/samsung-lcd-tv/samsung-es8000-picturesettings.html
Edited by Anthony5362 - 1/31/13 at 1:35pm
post #11137 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by gamermwm View Post

Hey Rico, your post puzzles me. Are you talking about the site links at the top of the "select a thread" forum pages? Those are just their sponsored movie links to Amazon

I was talking specifically about the 3D Buy/Sell/Trade Thread. There's nowhere else that I know of that you can find people selling their 3D discs for around $10 each. A few examples of prices members are currently offering: Spiderman 3D disc $11, Prometheus 3d disc only $10, Avengers 3D Disc in case. - $10 + $2 ship. Frankenweenie 3D disc only $13 shipped, Madagascar 3 $13, Prometheus 3d combo pack Sealed 16.50, John Carter 3d COMPLETE combo pack with slip - $17. You can't beat those prices anywhere

Here's the link to the thread directly, you must be a member to see:
http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=159288&page=34

Thanks man.. I just had the chance to check and compare and they look pretty good compared to what Amazon is charging for their used ones.
post #11138 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick-t View Post

The ES8000 is in, the GT50 is out. Now to update the firmware and try some of your settings out there.

One question, how are you guys arrviing at such detailed decisions on Gamma, Custom Color, and 10p White Balance without a meter?

Congrats man! I strongly suggest after you update to the new FW though, that you start off with the Standard mode in the default settings. Then if you don't like what you see, you can tweak them to Garnochs settings. I'm only saying this because every panel is different, and with this new update we just got, there really could be a bigger difference now from the 7500 and 8000 sets.
post #11139 of 16125
I tried the THX app out, it's alright. I would suggest not using the camera and phone display for the color tests, though. Rather, use the RGB color modes on the display and adjust the color settings by viewing the pattern directly on the display. You cannot count on the camera and phone display to produce the correct colors.

My recommendation would be to pick up a good Blu-ray calibration disc. I use and recommend the Spears And Munsil disc. I haven't tried the Disney disc, you guys have me interested in checking it out.
Edited by sharkcohen - 1/31/13 at 1:49pm
post #11140 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkcohen View Post

I tried the THX app out, it's alright. I would suggest not using the camera and phone display for the color tests, though. Rather, use the RGB color modes on the display and adjust the color settings by viewing the pattern directly on the display. You cannot count on the camera and phone display to produce the correct colors.

My recommendation would be to pick up a good Blu-ray calibration disc. I use and recommend the Spears And Munsil disc. I haven't tried the Disney disc, you guys have me interested in checking it out.

I used to adjust my color and tint that way too, but I don't think that's the right way to do it. My thoughts on why... When you bring up the test patterns on the TV, you're no longer adjusting to the source, but the TV instead. By doing that your color and tint will be calibrated properly for how the TV is displaying those things, but may be off compared to what the source is actually displaying. It seemed to be off more than just a little too. So, if you're only using the TV with an OTA antenna, then using the TVs test pattern to set the color and tint is fine, but will probably not be set up correct if you're using another source input.

That's my though anyway...
post #11141 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

I came across this today. It was posted right before they released the ES8000 to the public. What's interesting, is that it shows that are model had the "Smart LED" and "Cinema Black" settings around this time. This is very interesting. What's also Interesting is that these TVs were supposed to come with Google TV search and a QWERTY Remote, but they scratched this at the last minute I guess. I don't remember this though, so this comes at a surprise to me. These calibrated settings in this article are very old though. I don't even think they will work now. That's just a guess though.

http://reviews.lcdtvbuyingguide.com/samsung-lcd-tv/samsung-es8000-picturesettings.html

Great link because the fact that it lists Smart LED and Cinema Black is very interesting. Is it possible that the hardware required is there then but just not active?
post #11142 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

I used to adjust my color and tint that way too, but I don't think that's the right way to do it. My thoughts on why... When you bring up the test patterns on the TV, you're no longer adjusting to the source, but the TV instead. By doing that your color and tint will be calibrated properly for how the TV is displaying those things, but may be off compared to what the source is actually displaying. It seemed to be off more than just a little too. So, if you're only using the TV with an OTA antenna, then using the TVs test pattern to set the color and tint is fine, but will probably not be set up correct if you're using another source input.

That's my though anyway...

I on the other hand prefer to "calibrate" the panel and not the source so to speak. To many stations and shows do their own thing. As for the THX app, it's limited, but awesome. And everything I was doing watch matching up with going back and forth between between it and the WOW BD/AVS files. Granted, meters aren't involved, but you can get close and much better than out of the box. Although I will admit that a lot of the default settings look much better to me than they did before all the updates.
post #11143 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by gamermwm View Post

Hey Rico, your post puzzles me. Are you talking about the site links at the top of the "select a thread" forum pages? Those are just their sponsored movie links to Amazon

I was talking specifically about the 3D Buy/Sell/Trade Thread. There's nowhere else that I know of that you can find people selling their 3D discs for around $10 each. A few examples of prices members are currently offering: Spiderman 3D disc $11, Prometheus 3d disc only $10, Avengers 3D Disc in case. - $10 + $2 ship. Frankenweenie 3D disc only $13 shipped, Madagascar 3 $13, Prometheus 3d combo pack Sealed 16.50, John Carter 3d COMPLETE combo pack with slip - $17. You can't beat those prices anywhere

Here's the link to the thread directly, you must be a member to see:
http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=159288&page=34

Gamermwm - I'm at the right place. And you can definitely find deals - - I'm just saying that some of the folks are selling 3D discs for the same price or even over Amazon. (Which means always check to see online prices to verify you're getting the best deal.)

That being said, I am going to try it out - - especially if I can get Frankeweenie for $13.00! (That's what Garnoch and Anthony call me anyway!)

Thanks again for the post and link!
post #11144 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

I used to adjust my color and tint that way too, but I don't think that's the right way to do it. My thoughts on why... When you bring up the test patterns on the TV, you're no longer adjusting to the source, but the TV instead. By doing that your color and tint will be calibrated properly for how the TV is displaying those things, but may be off compared to what the source is actually displaying. It seemed to be off more than just a little too. So, if you're only using the TV with an OTA antenna, then using the TVs test pattern to set the color and tint is fine, but will probably not be set up correct if you're using another source input.

That's my though anyway...

My goal is in fact to calibrate the display. I set my devices to do as little or no video processing as possible. If the source device is changing what the content should look like, then the device is doing something wrong, in my opinion.

I always get my displays professionally calibrated by http://www.accucalhd.com/, user umr here on the forum. I've got a February appointment setup for my ES8000. umr does great work.
post #11145 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkcohen View Post

My goal is in fact to calibrate the display. I set my devices to do as little or no video processing as possible. If the source device is changing what the content should look like, then the device is doing something wrong, in my opinion.

I always get my displays professionally calibrated by http://www.accucalhd.com/, user umr here on the forum. I've got a February appointment setup for my ES8000. umr does great work.

Nice! I'd say send him to my place after and I'll send you the bill but I have too much fun playing around. smile.gif Good luck with it!
I have the same opinion about sources.
post #11146 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

Gamermwm - I'm at the right place. And you can definitely find deals - - I'm just saying that some of the folks are selling 3D discs for the same price or even over Amazon. (Which means always check to see online prices to verify you're getting the best deal.)

That being said, I am going to try it out - - especially if I can get Frankeweenie for $13.00! (That's what Garnoch and Anthony call me anyway!)

Thanks again for the post and link!

Only to your face - Behind your back, it's Tinyweenie.
post #11147 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by digimat View Post

Are you using the MD workaround with these settings? 60 is far to high if not... also your's is the first post I've seen with flesh tone changed let alone at +5....

I used the THX app last night and my tint needed to be adjusted slightly to the green side...

Yes, I specifically mentioned under "Auto-Dimming workaround" that I am using the CE-Dimming workaround, which is why the brightness is so high. My set in absolutely no way appears too bright to me. The adjustments under offsets bring the brightness right back down to where they should be.

I adjusted the flesh tone because, well, to my eyes, it helped the color a bit. I have the red offsets and red gain dialed way back thanks to the heavy red push of my set. The flesh tone bumped up slightly helps add a bit of warmth back in without needing to touch the offsets or gain, which tend to make more drastic changes to the color. Flesh tone is very subtle which is why I used it.
Edited by eagle_2 - 1/31/13 at 2:47pm
post #11148 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Only to your face - Behind your back, it's Tinyweenie.

They don't call me "Flicka" for nothing...
post #11149 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Great link because the fact that it lists Smart LED and Cinema Black is very interesting. Is it possible that the hardware required is there then but just not active?

I've always wondered if these sets had that option, and it was just hidden/taken away.
post #11150 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

I came across this today. It was posted right before they released the ES8000 to the public. What's interesting, is that it shows that are model had the "Smart LED" and "Cinema Black" settings around this time. This is very interesting. What's also Interesting is that these TVs were supposed to come with Google TV search and a QWERTY Remote, but they scratched this at the last minute I guess. I don't remember this though, so this comes at a surprise to me. These calibrated settings in this article are very old though. I don't even think they will work now. That's just a guess though.

http://reviews.lcdtvbuyingguide.com/samsung-lcd-tv/samsung-es8000-picturesettings.html

Very interest indeed. Especially the mention of cinema black. I wonder if the ES7500 also had that planned, or was it just the ES8000? IF the ES800 had that feature when I was shopping for sets, that might have made the difference and swayed me over to the ES8000. It didn't, so I went with the ES7500.
post #11151 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000 View Post

ES8000 owners, do you have your HDMI black level set to NORMAL or LOW for xbox360 gaming ? My panel seems to want to default to LOW and it looks better than normal which looks very washed out.

1000

Samsung HDTV HDMI Black Level: Normal -Xbox360 with HDMI Color Space: RGB and Reference Level: Expanded

Trust me, that's based on alot of research...
post #11152 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Very interest indeed. Especially the mention of cinema black. I wonder if the ES7500 also had that planned, or was it just the ES8000? IF the ES800 had that feature when I was shopping for sets, that might have made the difference and swayed me over to the ES8000. It didn't, so I went with the ES7500.

The crazy thing is how come the ES8000 and the ES9000 and 7500 all get the same exact FW? They don't do the same FW for the 7100 and ours. That's really strange and also, if you look on their website for the 9000, you will see that they got the same FW update as us but don't mention the 9000 anywhere.

One of my uncles has the 75" 9000 and the 60" 8000 and said that the update made his 8000 look much better and made it look exactly like the 9000 he has. He said there wasn't any change at all to his 9000 that he can see. I asked him to look at this, because I do believe its a possibly that our sets have these hidden someone deep, or maybe the Dynamic contrast is named that on our sets, but its really the "Smart LED"? And the black tone or black enhancer is really the "Cinema Black" but was changed on our sets to be called black tone or black enhancer. Idk.. I'm just guessing here and putting this out there. Especially after my uncle just told me that his 8000 looks exactly like his 9000 now.

Hey, Samsung is a very smart business. So it wouldn't surprise me at all if they did do this because, if they didn't, how else would they differentiate the two and ask for $10K for an edge lit LED when you can buy a 70" Elite "Full array" for way less. They need something to make the 9000 look like its worth that price right?

So say this is true which we would never know, then that would probably mean that once this Evo kit comes out, there's a possibility we will have these settings back. Maybe they figured they can take them out or hide them, or even change them around now, because they figured once they release this kit, consumers would just assume that its because of this kit that we have these settings back since they are advertising the kit to bring "Software" and "Hardware" improvements to our sets. But really, we had them all along.. Either way, I would just be happy to have them period though.

This is just speculation here. I am not saying this is a fact, just a possibility, that's all.
Edited by Anthony5362 - 1/31/13 at 3:56pm
post #11153 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Only to your face - Behind your back, it's Tinyweenie.

Lmao! You know Rico, Kitty doesn't go for tiny wink.gif
post #11154 of 16125
Can somebody maybe answer this for me? I was just checking out the AVS "color clipping" pattern with my posted settings. With my color at 35, color clipping looks good. Virtually all the bars are visible. I will mention also that my contrast at 96 is just right according to the WOW pattern for white clipping.

Now here's what's weird. If I put my color saturation up to where the AVS "flashing color bars" says it "should" be, which is 48 for me, then the color clipping pattern is off the charts - virtually all the color bars are gone. For me to leave the color on 48 and get the color clipping bars to not clip, I need to bring my contrast down to like 70-75, which is not right because then using the white clipping pattern from the WOW disc, all the stars that shouldn't be visible are visible, and the screen appears too dull, indicating that the contrast needs to go higher. 96 is where my contrast needs to be according to WOW, but that totally blows out the color clipping pattern for the AVS disc if I leave my color on 48.

I like my color around 35 anyways, and at that setting, the color clipping pattern and white clipping pattern are both fine. But it's weird that if I put my color where it "should" be according to the AVS disc, it screws up my color clipping test. Anybody know why? It seems like if I bump up my color I need to dial back on contrast to avoid color clipping, but that just screws up my white clipping since my contrast would actually be too low. I tried adjusting my offsets and gain back to 25, just for testing purposes to see what effect that had on the color clipping pattern, and it actually made virtually no difference - the colors were still clipping big time because of the high contrast and the color at 48 for my tests.

The settings I posted in the last page all look good according to the test patterns I used.
post #11155 of 16125
Eagle, when I used the THX app, it showed me that I needed my Contrast to be at 75-78 anything above that was too washed out. Before this update though, I had my contrast set at 94-97
post #11156 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

Eagle, when I used the THX app, it showed me that I needed my Contrast to be at 75-78 anything above that was too washed out. Before this update though, I had my contrast set at 94-97

Anthony, you could distinguish the 8 boxes in the THX app with Contrast above 78?
post #11157 of 16125
Really weird. I've got the latest update, but then again, I've got the 7500, not the 8000. I wonder if there really is that much of a difference? You wouldn't think so. I wish I could use the THX app but alas, I have no apple device to run it on.
post #11158 of 16125
Eagle, just buy an Apple TV, and I ipad or iPod..

Garnoch, did you mean that I could see the 8 different boxes with contrast at 75-78? If so, yes.. Anything above that looked too washed out
post #11159 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Can somebody maybe answer this for me? I was just checking out the AVS "color clipping" pattern with my posted settings. With my color at 35, color clipping looks good. Virtually all the bars are visible. I will mention also that my contrast at 96 is just right according to the WOW pattern for white clipping.

Now here's what's weird. If I put my color saturation up to where the AVS "flashing color bars" says it "should" be, which is 48 for me, then the color clipping pattern is off the charts - virtually all the color bars are gone. For me to leave the color on 48 and get the color clipping bars to not clip, I need to bring my contrast down to like 70-75, which is not right because then using the white clipping pattern from the WOW disc, all the stars that shouldn't be visible are visible, and the screen appears too dull, indicating that the contrast needs to go higher. 96 is where my contrast needs to be according to WOW, but that totally blows out the color clipping pattern for the AVS disc if I leave my color on 48.

I like my color around 35 anyways, and at that setting, the color clipping pattern and white clipping pattern are both fine. But it's weird that if I put my color where it "should" be according to the AVS disc, it screws up my color clipping test. Anybody know why? It seems like if I bump up my color I need to dial back on contrast to avoid color clipping, but that just screws up my white clipping since my contrast would actually be too low. I tried adjusting my offsets and gain back to 25, just for testing purposes to see what effect that had on the color clipping pattern, and it actually made virtually no difference - the colors were still clipping big time because of the high contrast and the color at 48 for my tests.

The settings I posted in the last page all look good according to the test patterns I used.

All I can say it that each time you change something, other things you already changed should be looked at again. It's like going in a circle until it's right. And if you're not going for the pro standard white temp of 65k, which you're not even close with a Color Temp of Cool, that could throw things off too. Plus you're adjusting the skin tone because I know you've never been happy with the skin tones. You're using Standard so a Color of 48 sounds right, mine could have nee 48 or 49, but other things can add up and throw things off. Anyway my point is, if someone is not going for the standard used in TV, there are many ways we all can set our settings to look basically right with the limited tools we're using. I might plug yours in just to see that the color clipping looks like. If you like what you see though and don't care about the standard, then just go with it. I care 90% - if I cared 100%, I'd hire someone haha.
post #11160 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

Eagle, just buy an Apple TV, and I ipad or iPod..

Garnoch, did you mean that I could see the 8 different boxes with contrast at 75-78? If so, yes.. Anything above that looked too washed out

That's really interesting. This update allowed me to bump mine back up to where it was before the previous update. I confirmed it not only on the THX app, the the WOW BD and the AVS file.

Edit: AHHHH, never mind - like RicoFB, I sometimes forget who is using AVR processing before it gets to the TV, which may explain it.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: LCD Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread