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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 373

post #11161 of 16125
Regarding my settings, keep in mind that although the brightness looks extreme when you see it's at 60, the offsets totally counteract that. I basically set my brightness first since that's the key to disabling auto-dimming, and then adjusting the offsets accordingly using the test patterns to achieve the proper color and brightness. 60 for brightness seems to be around the magic number to totally eliminate auto-dimming. The lower you go from 60, the more aggressive auto-dimming becomes very quickly. With my posted settings, the screen appears just as it did before when I had the brightness at 46, but with the benefit of auto dimming. And the backlight at 7 provides just the right amount of brightness without being blinding and without being too dim.
post #11162 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

All I can say it that each time you change something, other things you already changed should be looked at again. It's like going in a circle until it's right. And if you're not going for the pro standard white temp of 65k, which you're not even close with a Color Temp of Cool, that could throw things off too. Plus you're adjusting the skin tone because I know you've never been happy with the skin tones. You're using Standard so a Color of 48 sounds right, mine could have nee 48 or 49, but other things can add up and throw things off. Anyway my point is, if someone is not going for the standard used in TV, there are many ways we all can set our settings to look basically right with the limited tools we're using. I might plug yours in just to see that the color clipping looks like. If you like what you see though and don't care about the standard, then just go with it. I care 90% - if I cared 100%, I'd hire someone haha.

I'm only using a color temp of cool for 3D to counteract the warm tint of the glasses. I use standard color temp for 2D.
post #11163 of 16125
Yeah I didn't mean your Brightness because I do the same thing though not as extreme - and you're right that it looks identical to before raising Brightness.
post #11164 of 16125
RicoFB- Don't you have either front height or front wide speakers connected to your Elite? I got some for my setup today, but when I enable them (front height) it disables my surround back speakers. Is that normal?
post #11165 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

RicoFB- Don't you have either front height or front wide speakers connected to your Elite? I got some for my setup today, but when I enable them (front height) it disables my surround back speakers. Is that normal?


On my Onkyo, I can't have them all on at the same time either. It kinds sucks, but I think there's a way to change it, I just don't know how.
post #11166 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

On my Onkyo, I can't have them all on at the same time either. It kinds sucks, but I think there's a way to change it, I just don't know how.

I wonder why they would do that. Oh well. If that's just how it works, then I'll switch between the two depending on what I'm watching. Honestly, regular TV watching sounds much better with the front height speakers on and no surround rear. I do have the surround L/R channels, just not the rear and it sounds pretty dang good. I'm not sure which will be better for movie watching yet.
post #11167 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

I on the other hand prefer to "calibrate" the panel and not the source so to speak. To many stations and shows do their own thing. As for the THX app, it's limited, but awesome. And everything I was doing watch matching up with going back and forth between between it and the WOW BD/AVS files. Granted, meters aren't involved, but you can get close and much better than out of the box. Although I will admit that a lot of the default settings look much better to me than they did before all the updates.

Is it possible to calibrate the panel? I guess if you use DLNA with the AVS files, which is how I use those files, then there isn't an outside source involved and would be the closest to calibrating the panel as possible. I you use the WoW BD, then you're actually calibrating for the BD player, not the panel. That's why I said I believe it's better to do the color and tint adjustments on whatever source you're using for calibration since that's what's actually being calibrated. The built-in TV test patterns are not going to match exactly what your other calibration tools will show. I don't think it's off by much, but I think I remember setting color/tint using the WoW disk and then checking those settings with the built-in pattern and they needed to be adjusted to get it right in that pattern. I left the color and tint set to how my bluray player said they should be because when I'm watching a movie on the bluray player I want the color and tint to be correct for that device.

I decided to ditch my individual picture modes being calibrated for different source components, so I'll probably do what you do and use the WoW disk, AVS files and the THX app to get them all as close as possible for my Movie and Standard modes.
post #11168 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

I wonder why they would do that. Oh well. If that's just how it works, then I'll switch between the two depending on what I'm watching. Honestly, regular TV watching sounds much better with the front height speakers on and no surround rear. I do have the surround L/R channels, just not the rear and it sounds pretty dang good. I'm not sure which will be better for movie watching yet.


I think if you bought a pre amp, then you can take advantage of the full 9.1? Or maybe using the pre outs on the reciever? Rico will know this for sure.. And from what I heard, the front height speakers are supposed to be amazing for movies.. I think like helicopters and stuff

Btw, that advise you gave me on disconnecting my TV from the world, worked! So thanks for that..
post #11169 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

I think if you bought a pre amp, then you can take advantage of the full 9.1? Or maybe using the pre outs on the reciever? Rico will know this for sure..

Btw, that advise you gave me on disconnecting my TV from the world, worked! So thanks for that..

Yeah, hopefully Rico will chime in. I'm glad you were able to get your TV disconnected.
post #11170 of 16125
Thanks man... I can't believe there really isn't a setting to turn the wifi on and off. I had to enter those numbers like you said so the TV doesn't recognize the IP address. Its weird that I wanted to do that. I always heard Blade say that's what he did
post #11171 of 16125
Adjusting Contrast, at least on my 7500, really makes no difference... all the test patterns look exactly how they should at 100 percent so it boils down to simply preference.

Also make sure you change the backlight up or down before you adjust anything... I've noticed the backlight is on eco or something by default and changing it turns it off.
post #11172 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by PiratesCove View Post

Samsung HDTV HDMI Black Level: Normal -Xbox360 with HDMI Color Space: RGB and Reference Level: Expanded

Trust me, that's based on alot of research...

Can you fill us in where you researched this? I find some games are way too dark with HDMI at low, there's also that issue when watching video it will looked washed out... I set mine to auto for that reason.
post #11173 of 16125
Alright, since I'm not falling asleep like last night, I gave everything another run through. Using the camera on the THX app works surprisingly well actually, matching using a blue color filter instead perfectly. I thought I was maybe losing it, so had to check it all again. That being said though, I did make some small tweaks with color and contrast. I'll update my settings from 2 pages ago and the link in my signature.
post #11174 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by PiratesCove View Post

Samsung HDTV HDMI Black Level: Normal -Xbox360 with HDMI Color Space: RGB and Reference Level: Expanded

Trust me, that's based on alot of research...

Hey man, I saw that your model 7100 also had a FW update. Do you notice anything different on yours? On Samsung's site, it says for the notes that it updated Netflix to 3.2 codec? I'm wondering what if ours got this also. Of course this is missing from our notes.

Btw, I like Samsung's new web site design. It looks like their UK site does a little
post #11175 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

Hey man, I saw that your model 7100 also had a FW update. Do you notice anything different on yours?

I updated to FW 1026 today...not much difference..thankfully.

I didn't try the reset...I follow this thread too wink.gif.

The firmware notes:

- Support Verizon Apps

- Support Netflix 3.2 codec

- Resolves picture shaking and line noise on 1080p source.

- Supports Yahoo SyncPlus app..

- Resolves escaping issue while watching movie on VUDU.

- Resolves issue Cinemanow does not play certain title.

- Resolves compatibility issue with DLNA devices.

- Improves picture quality.

- Supports Samsung wireless Audio Dock

- Solves the problem closed caption does not show.

I did notice that Source also has Allshare Connected Device as a choice.
post #11176 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Alright, since I'm not falling asleep like last night, I gave everything another run through. Using the camera on the THX app works surprisingly well actually, matching using a blue color filter instead perfectly. I thought I was maybe losing it, so had to check it all again. That being said though, I did make some small tweaks with color and contrast. I'll update my settings from 2 pages ago and the link in my signature.

Did you find that lowering the contrast to 75-85 helped? Also, did you try it with Dynamic contrast and black tone enabled?
post #11177 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

Is it possible to calibrate the panel? I guess if you use DLNA with the AVS files, which is how I use those files, then there isn't an outside source involved and would be the closest to calibrating the panel as possible. I you use the WoW BD, then you're actually calibrating for the BD player, not the panel. That's why I said I believe it's better to do the color and tint adjustments on whatever source you're using for calibration since that's what's actually being calibrated. The built-in TV test patterns are not going to match exactly what your other calibration tools will show. I don't think it's off by much, but I think I remember setting color/tint using the WoW disk and then checking those settings with the built-in pattern and they needed to be adjusted to get it right in that pattern. I left the color and tint set to how my bluray player said they should be because when I'm watching a movie on the bluray player I want the color and tint to be correct for that device.

I decided to ditch my individual picture modes being calibrated for different source components, so I'll probably do what you do and use the WoW disk, AVS files and the THX app to get them all as close as possible for my Movie and Standard modes.

If you don't have any processing on the BD player or anywhere in the chain, then it's a direct digital signal to the TV, so you should be good. I've never had a problem with the difference sources matching because of that. I'm not sure that helps though.
post #11178 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by PiratesCove View Post

I updated to FW 1026 today...not much difference..thankfully.

I didn't try the reset...I follow this thread too wink.gif.

The firmware notes:

- Support Verizon Apps

- Support Netflix 3.2 codec

- Resolves picture shaking and line noise on 1080p source.

- Supports Yahoo SyncPlus app..

- Resolves escaping issue while watching movie on VUDU.

- Resolves issue Cinemanow does not play certain title.

- Resolves compatibility issue with DLNA devices.

- Improves picture quality.

- Supports Samsung wireless Audio Dock

- Solves the problem closed caption does not show.

I did notice that Source also has Allshare Connected Device as a choice.

When you say "Source" do you mean the source as in to change the source Imput? This may sound stupid, but I ask because I just checked mine and it doesn't have that.
The only choices I have is the usual HDMI and RVU and USB.. Unless the USB showing is the Allshare connected device?
Edited by Anthony5362 - 1/31/13 at 6:20pm
post #11179 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

Did you find that lowering the contrast to 75-85 helped? Also, did you try it with Dynamic contrast and black tone enabled?

Contrast I think should be as high as possible before it starts causing a problem, so having it that low didn't work for mine at all, but I do think it's not apples for apples. I think yours is so much lower because other things are going on in your AVR, so I wouldn't be surprised at all if yours is set right for your setup. If just looking at the Contrast tests alone, I technically could have Standard and Movie up to 100, but that cause some color issues, which is why my Standard was lower than Movie to begin with. But to balance everything out a little more, I did lower Movies Contrast to 98 and Standard's Contrast to 94. I adjusted the overall Color down one on Movie but up 2 on Standard because of the other change. Standard is now 1 below Movie. I also fine tuned some White Balance blue settings a touch in Movie because I somehow missed I was actually clipping there a little.

The only update I wasn't a fan of was the previous one. And this one I love more than all the others. For some reason I am also noticing that my viewing angle looks better too.
post #11180 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Contrast I think should be as high as possible before it starts causing a problem, so having it that low didn't work for mine at all, but I do think it's not apples for apples. I think yours is so much lower because other things are going on in your AVR, so I wouldn't be surprised at all if yours is set right for your setup. If just looking at the Contrast tests alone, I technically could have Standard and Movie up to 100, but that cause some color issues, which is why my Standard was lower than Movie to begin with. But to balance everything out a little more, I did lower Movies Contrast to 98 and Standard's Contrast to 94. I adjusted the overall Color down one on Movie but up 2 on Standard because of the other change. Standard is now 1 below Movie. I also fine tuned some White Balance blue settings a touch in Movie because I somehow missed I was actually clipping there a little.

The only update I wasn't a fan of was the previous one. And this one I love more than all the others. For some reason I am also noticing that my viewing angle looks better too.

Yes, the viewing angle is another plus I noticed. You may be right, but even on my 60" which doesn't have any processing, I had to drop the contrast to 76. Also I have dynamic contrast on and black tone, so maybe that's why? I always had my contrast high though before this update. On my D8000 and E8000 plasma, I have the contrast at 100. Very strange..
post #11181 of 16125
post #11182 of 16125
Oh sorry, I meant to mention Black Tone and DC. Yeah I have Black Tone on Dark, tested it with it on and off, both ways work with my settings. I tried DC on Low too, and with both Black Tone and DC on that way, it's really on the edge and Brightness probably should be bumped up by 1.
post #11183 of 16125
Its too bad this update didn't come when Cmay still had his 60" . I'm curious what he would of thought. I think he may have even kept it. I would love if they would do a new shootout too. I bet this TV would do a lot better then it did at the time. And if David K from Cnet re did the review, I bet it would be ranked a lot higher then it is now. That would be very intersting to see.
post #11184 of 16125
Jestered - - sorry I'm late to the party. Big day at the Ricodome - - my construction buddy just finished up tearing out a "faux" window, running electricity to the wall, drywall patching and texturing so I can paint tonight. Tommorrow, we will mount my 65" Sammy to the back wall of the man cave to allow enough room for the behemoth Studio CC690 center channel that I purchased from a local Paradigm dealer. (Good bye tax return! Already filed and accepted by the IRS and the State of Colorado - - thanks Turbo Tax!)

Back to your question - - my Pioneer SC65 - 9.2 channel AVR is capablle of 9.1 and I originally had that setup as my original configuration. Guess what? There isn't that much material in 7.1 let alone 9.1 or 11.1 (DTS Neo - The Expendables II). (Especially from Blockbuster Rental or even streaming. VUDU has some selections (thanks Anthony!) but there is not a lot.

So, I decided to "Bi-Amp" (not bi-wire) - which is a specific configuration using the FH/FW terminals on the Pioneer SC65 - my front Paradigm Studio 60's - V.2. You have to go into the Pioneer main menu to invoke this change. Lots of opinion on bi-amping but for me, it's made for a much clearer and cleaner sound - - especially at lower listening levels. My current setup is 7.1 - - which I'm very happy with - - especially the new center speaker I'll soon have. The rest (my satellites) are Mod 2's (eight total) which comprise the LS, RS, LSB, RSB.

You can setup your system for FH or FW but not both - - it cannot pass a signal simultaneously to each speaker. Now a lot of people like FH - - it's probably better received than FW - - and it does lift the dialogue and give more of a "presence" - - so to speak. (That's what Yamaha calls their FH - not the same as Dolby IIz or DTS Neo's use of FH in the sound mix.

By the way - - if anyone is looking for some great satellites at a low cost, I have 6 Mirage Nanosat's available - - very cheap.

So - to end this lengthy discourse - - you can certainly setup FH or FW with a 9.1 system and maybe even 7.1 system if it has that flexibility. I liked the sound but due to my high hearing loss and love of movies - - I decided to invest in the absolute best "matching" center I could find so I don't have to ask my girlfriend "what the hell did he say?" And I'm looking forward to viewing movies again like the The Dark Knight Rises - - to see if I can make out some of the dialogue that even my superb hearing girlfriend (and her girlfriend) couldn't hear the first time we played it.

I blame the sound mixers of the world - - like Garnoch - - for the necessity of having to spend so much $$$ on a quality center speaker. I'm sure he gets a "kickback."

Best - Rico
post #11185 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

For some reason I am also noticing that my viewing angle looks better too.

I can confirm that as well on my 8000. I noticed it today and it's much better than it was before the update.
post #11186 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

Jestered - - sorry I'm late to the party. Big day at the Ricodome - - my construction buddy just finished up tearing out a "faux" window, running electricity to the wall, drywall patching and texturing so I can paint tonight. Tommorrow, we will mount my 65" Sammy to the back wall of the man cave to allow enough room for the behemoth Studio CC690 center channel that I purchased from a local Paradigm dealer. (Good bye tax return! Already filed and accepted by the IRS and the State of Colorado - - thanks Turbo Tax!)

Back to your question - - my Pioneer SC65 - 9.2 channel AVR is capablle of 9.1 and I originally had that setup as my original configuration. Guess what? There isn't that much material in 7.1 let alone 9.1 or 11.1 (DTS Neo - The Expendables II). (Especially from Blockbuster Rental or even streaming. VUDU has some selections (thanks Anthony!) but there is not a lot.

So, I decided to "Bi-Amp" (not bi-wire) - which is a specific configuration using the FH/FW terminals on the Pioneer SC65 - my front Paradigm Studio 60's - V.2. You have to go into the Pioneer main menu to invoke this change. Lots of opinion on bi-amping but for me, it's made for a much clearer and cleaner sound - - especially at lower listening levels. My current setup is 7.1 - - which I'm very happy with - - especially the new center speaker I'll soon have. The rest (my satellites) are Mod 2's (eight total) which comprise the LS, RS, LSB, RSB.

You can setup your system for FH or FW but not both - - it cannot pass a signal simultaneously to each speaker. Now a lot of people like FH - - it's probably better received than FW - - and it does lift the dialogue and give more of a "presence" - - so to speak. (That's what Yamaha calls their FH - not the same as Dolby IIz or DTS Neo's use of FH in the sound mix.

By the way - - if anyone is looking for some great satellites at a low cost, I have 6 Mirage Nanosat's available - - very cheap.

So - to end this lengthy discourse - - you can certainly setup FH or FW with a 9.1 system and maybe even 7.1 system if it has that flexibility. I liked the sound but due to my high hearing loss and love of movies - - I decided to invest in the absolute best "matching" center I could find so I don't have to ask my girlfriend "what the hell did he say?" And I'm looking forward to viewing movies again like the The Dark Knight Rises - - to see if I can make out some of the dialogue that even my superb hearing girlfriend (and her girlfriend) couldn't hear the first time we played it.

I blame the sound mixers of the world - - like Garnoch - - for the necessity of having to spend so much $$$ on a quality center speaker. I'm sure he gets a "kickback."

Best - Rico

(edit- I just re-read your post and realize you said you were bi-amping your FH/FW speakers. I'm not very familiar with that, so maybe I'm doing something wrong. I'll have to read up more on that.)

I went into the AVR menu settings and turned on the FH speakers and redid the MCACC mic calibration. It did recognize and calibrate those speakers along with the rest. I can get those FH speakers to work, but it always turns off my back surround speakers. My AVR is listed as a 7.1 receiver, but I thought this would work instead of using the second zone. My FH speakers are connected to the FH terminals on the back of the AVR where you plug in either the FH or FW speakers, so I'm guessing it simply won't work as a 9.1 set up instead of the second zone. I figured it would because it talks about it in the manual and never mentions anything about not being able to use the rear surround with those FH speakers on. Also, when I cycle through the "speakers" button on the front of the AVR I get these options:

SB ON (surround back on)
FH ON (front height on)
OFF (off obviously)
SB/FH ON (surround back/front height on)

Since the first two options allow me to have one or the other on, that last option leads me to believe that it must support having both of those speaker sets on at the same time. Hopefully I can figure out how to get that working because it really does sound much better with those FH speakers on, but I don't necessarily want to lose my SB speakers either. Oh, and I would have preferred to add FW speakers, but my room simply won't allow it, so FH it was. I have plenty of ear level speakers all over too, so the higher up sound is very nice.
post #11187 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by kerednai View Post

I am contemplating which TV to buy right now. Due to the light in my room LED is the only way to go for WAF.
How does the 8000 look for sports - specifically soccer but would be interested in American football too? I would be getting the 65" version if that makes a difference. Sorry for not trawling my way through this thread, but its buge and the latest firmware seesm to make a big difference.

I watch a fair bit of soccer and love it. I even watch soccer in SD when I can't get certain matches in HD and enjoy it (and I can't even tolerate it in SD on some sets). I think this set handles soccer and sports in general very well. That being said, I have a 55" ES8000 with no banding visibile in an normal viewing situation -- this thread is a testament to the many challenges with with vertical banding in the 65" size, which I can imagine might be very distracting when present, and it's known to present itself with the sorts of panning and uniform color backgrounds common to soccer, hockey, golf, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

That's actually one of the biggest misconceptions regarding these TVs. Most people think they need a source device that is going to upscale so they get a better picture, which in most cases is simply not true. The thing that most people don't realize is that your TV is already upscaling any signal it gets to 1080P, unless the source signal is already 1080P. The fact of the matter is that the TV will almost always do a better job of upscaling than your device will. I used to NEVER let any of my devices do the upscaling. I now however let my new Elite AVR do the upscaling because I believe it probably does a better job than the TV would. Probably not by much, but hey...

So, you should never let any device upscale the signal unless you believe it will do a better job than the TV will on it's own, which it normally won't, unless you have good equipment with very good video processing.

Now that is out of the way (until people start disagreeing with me), even though your source on your 60" isn't dong any upscaling, your TV is, and does a very good job of it.

I agree with this principle but want to comment on a related point on the concept. I have a Comcast HD STB that doesn't offer a "pass through" option for the source content -- I have to select from 480p, 720p, 1080i and 1080p for source coming through the Comcast box. Different channels use different formats - principally 720p and 1080i. I can choose to either manually adjust the box output for each individual channel to it's native feed from Comcast and let the TV scale to 1080p, or I can let the box upscale to 1080p and pass to the TV. I choose to let the Comcast box scale to 1080p for all my cable feeds for two reasons: (1) I am far too lazy to internalize which channel feed is coming in whichever format and then change the feed option when I change channels, and (2) regardless of the native feed, the panel will have to scale to 1080p regardless if the box isn't passing a native 1080p signal. Putting aside my laziness, I'd much rather have only one scaling process (even an inferior one) than two (by the Comcast box for certain channels if I haven't overcome the laziness and don't remember that Fox Soccer HD should be in 720p while TNT HD should be 1080i), and then again by the TV for 1080p. So I'd just add to the concept Jestered discusses that you're probably better off with less repeated scaling of the source material even if your device is not the best scaling device in your chain than you are running the feed through a quality upscaler after it's already been scaled in some way (as might happen in certain set-ups).
post #11188 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

. . . even my superb hearing girlfriend (and her girlfriend) couldn't hear the first time we played . . .

This thread is getting interesting again!
post #11189 of 16125
iam in AUS and just received my Samsung UA65ES8000 65" Absolutely love the Tv. Have applied nitr's setting to it great tv upgraded from the 55ES7500

Hardly any backlight bleed or clouding so far i dont see any banding either
post #11190 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Catt99 View Post

This thread is getting interesting again!

AHAHAHAHA, Go Frankenweenie! Nice catch, Catt, and good to see ya.



One other improvement with this update. The transition to turning off the screen during pure black is very smooth now, not jarring, so I don't bother trying to get rid of that "feature" now.
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