(edit- I just re-read your post and realize you said you were bi-amping your FH/FW speakers. I'm not very familiar with that, so maybe I'm doing something wrong. I'll have to read up more on that.)
I went into the AVR menu settings and turned on the FH speakers and redid the MCACC mic calibration. It did recognize and calibrate those speakers along with the rest. I can get those FH speakers to work, but it always turns off my back surround speakers. My AVR is listed as a 7.1 receiver, but I thought this would work instead of using the second zone. My FH speakers are connected to the FH terminals on the back of the AVR where you plug in either the FH or FW speakers, so I'm guessing it simply won't work as a 9.1 set up instead of the second zone. I figured it would because it talks about it in the manual and never mentions anything about not being able to use the rear surround with those FH speakers on. Also, when I cycle through the "speakers" button on the front of the AVR I get these options:
SB ON (surround back on)
FH ON (front height on)
OFF (off obviously)
SB/FH ON (surround back/front height on)
Since the first two options allow me to have one or the other on, that last option leads me to believe that it must support having both of those speaker sets on at the same time. Hopefully I can figure out how to get that working because it really does sound much better with those FH speakers on, but I don't necessarily want to lose my SB speakers either. Oh, and I would have preferred to add FW speakers, but my room simply won't allow it, so FH it was. I have plenty of ear level speakers all over too, so the higher up sound is very nice.
Jestered - what model is your Pioneer AVR? If you have 7.1 - you should be able to get FH (Left and Right) along with L, C, R, and Surround Back (L & R) plus your Sub via Dolby IIz or DTS Neo.
There is an Optimum Surround that does a great job of spreading out the dialogue between your front and center speakers. And it's 7.1!
My old Yamaha receiver had what is called Front Presence Speakers that subtracted from the rear surrounds but with Dolby IIz or DTS Neo or even the Optimum setting, that shouldn't happen.
Dudes, reading with great interest that apparently the new firmware marks a significant improvement to picture quality. I noticed a little difference, but do I need to do a full reset to take advantage of the changes ? Is that a complete reset of the panel, or just the picture settings I.e STANDARD picture reset ?
getting things set up here in Movie and have been watching some movies in letterbox...I think I hve the dreaded V. What can I do about it? Is it really possible that a TV that costs this much is going to be this terrible? This one might have to go the way of the GT50.
I have played with backlight, brightness and contrast with the AVS files and I think I have it working OK. I have tried settings posted by other users here too. It won't go away.
getting things set up here in Movie and have been watching some movies in letterbox...I think I hve the dreaded V. What can I do about it? Is it really possible that a TV that costs this much is going to be this terrible? This one might have to go the way of the GT50.
I have played with backlight, brightness and contrast with the AVS files and I think I have it working OK. I have tried settings posted by other users here too. It won't go away.
Is this normal? Is it acceptable?
I'm sure others will have advice for you also. Regarding the dreaded "V", personally, I find it unacceptable for an expensive tv like these. However, I have had no choice but to accept it for reasons I won't get into. It' seems pretty common for this line of sets. For whatever reason (pressure behind the panel at a specific location perhaps?) many of these sets have the same exact "V" issue. You'll have to decide if it's something you can grow to ignore. In my experience, it doesn't go away. Others have said otherwise (not sure how an update can make it go away since from what I understand it is caused by a physical issue with the set).
You may want to consider trying standard mode. It helps to diminish, somewhat, the clouding, just because movie mode tends to need the backlight up higher than standard mode does, and the higher the backlight, the more visible the clouding is. Also micro-dimming helps also I believe, which does not function in movie mode. I understand clouding is quite common with these LED LCD sets, especially the edge-lit type, but the obnoxious way that it literally forms the "V" is extra-aggravating in my opinion. The location and shape of it make it so hard to ignore. It's ultimately up to you if it's a deal-breaker.
getting things set up here in Movie and have been watching some movies in letterbox...I think I hve the dreaded V. What can I do about it? Is it really possible that a TV that costs this much is going to be this terrible? This one might have to go the way of the GT50.
I have played with backlight, brightness and contrast with the AVS files and I think I have it working OK. I have tried settings posted by other users here too. It won't go away.
Is this normal? Is it acceptable?
Make sure your TV has The newest FW 1046.2. Not 1046, 1046.2. Also, I noticed that on my 60" when I did the FW update, it didn't work. So I had to go back into the settings and go into it as I'm downloading the FW again. There's an option called "alternative firmware" which is usually greyed out. I this is not greyed out, then click on this and it will add the new FW to your set. After all this, I would go into the standard picture settings and at the bottom, you can reset these settings. Click on this and let it reset your standard settings to default.
My set had the V, but after this update, its gone..
Another thing that I've noticed help with flashlighting, is letting the panel set in. Once it settles, it usually gets better. This is why they don't recommend doing any calibration for 200 or so hours after the set has settled. Edited by Anthony5362 - 2/1/13 at 3:44am
Hi, I currently own a 55es8000 and I have all my sources connected to my denon receiver with arc. I have had this tv now for 10 months with this setup. The issue I'm having is each time I turn on my tv it switches sources on my receiver like the tv is preparing to output and I have to manually change the source to cable or etc... Is anyone else having this issue or have a solution?.
Dudes, reading with great interest that apparently the new firmware marks a significant improvement to picture quality. I noticed a little difference, but do I need to do a full reset to take advantage of the changes ? Is that a complete reset of the panel, or just the picture settings I.e STANDARD picture reset ?
1000
I didn't notice any improvement until I did a full reset. I wish I did just reset just each picture mode first to see if that worked, then do the full reset if it didn't, but I just did the full reset and that seemed to work. My advise would be to try doing just the picture setting reset. If your under standard picture mode, on the bottom, you can just reset that picture mode. Try that first before you do a full reset. Also, what model do you have? 8000 or 7500?
For the 8000 owners here, I strongly recommend resetting the standard settings and starting from the default settings first, then tweak it from there with your eyes and if your not happy, then try other settings like Garnochs. Or, try his as well anyways just to see. But start from the default first. Every panel is different, so all our sets will not look exactly the same as others so using someone else's settings is more for a guide to being close to what it should be. But everyone's lighting conditions are not the same either.
What I'm trying to say is, I have my 60" in a very bright room with 4 sets of double sliding doors leading to a deck and a sun room. Then I have my 65" is a basement man cave with complete control of light, so its pretty much like a cave. Both sets have different settings. I didn't write down settings from my 60" and then dial them into my 65" because of this and also because they are completely different panels, the same goes for a 7500 and 8000. They are different models with different panels and "supposedly" different software. This is where Samsung should really give us more details to their Micro dimming and FW patch notes because this makes us all wondering and confused which setting to use. Its also personal preference. Some people here have said they love Nitras settngs, and some said Garnochs settings worked Best for their panel. The best way is to try all options first before settlling on one. Edited by Anthony5362 - 2/1/13 at 4:11am
Hi, I currently own a 55es8000 and I have all my sources connected to my denon receiver with arc. I have had this tv now for 10 months with this setup. The issue I'm having is each time I turn on my tv it switches sources on my receiver like the tv is preparing to output and I have to manually change the source to cable or etc... Is anyone else having this issue or have a solution?.
Yes, I was just posting this issue yesterday, but no one seemed to know the answer to this fix. Mine has been doing this the whole time also and its really annoying so I understand what you mean. I'm hoping that there is a fix to this and that I don't have to disable the Anynet on the TV or use optical instead, because I really like having my set turn on and off with each other. Especially since I have my TV set to turn off everyday at a certain time at night when I fall asleep, and its nice that when this happens, my Onkyo also turns off Edited by Anthony5362 - 2/1/13 at 3:48am
I'm sure others will have advice for you also. Regarding the dreaded "V", personally, I find it unacceptable for an expensive tv like these. However, I have had no choice but to accept it for reasons I won't get into. It' seems pretty common for this line of sets. For whatever reason (pressure behind the panel at a specific location perhaps?) many of these sets have the same exact "V" issue. You'll have to decide if it's something you can grow to ignore. In my experience, it doesn't go away. Others have said otherwise (not sure how an update can make it go away since from what I understand it is caused by a physical issue with the set).
You may want to consider trying standard mode. It helps to diminish, somewhat, the clouding, just because movie mode tends to need the backlight up higher than standard mode does, and the higher the backlight, the more visible the clouding is. Also micro-dimming helps also I believe, which does not function in movie mode. I understand clouding is quite common with these LED LCD sets, especially the edge-lit type, but the obnoxious way that it literally forms the "V" is extra-aggravating in my opinion. The location and shape of it make it so hard to ignore. It's ultimately up to you if it's a deal-breaker.
This is outrageous. I can not believe that with a set costing this much that anyone should have to live with what I can see. I can still return my set, so I guess I will fall back on that. Aside from this issue though I really like everything else.
If it is just pressure from some screws will Samsung just fix this? Should I contact Samsung or Best Buy?
I have a feeling that your set doesn't have the newest 1046.2 update and may just have the 1046 FW. Also, you say your using movie mode, and my own experience now is that standard is better since it has Micro Dimming enabled which is why you probably went with the 8000 and not the 7500 to begin with since the 8000 has the "Ultimate" and the 7500 has the pro? Dude, I agree and take or from me. I hated my set when I first bought it. You can read my review on Amazon.com and see how bad I reviewed it. I gave it a 1star review because it looked horrible at first. You can read it, its under same name as here. But, after this last update, Im buying another one, that's how much I'm happy now with it. Something doesn't sound right. What settings are you using?
Here's a great link to a guide for anyone interested
When you say "Source" do you mean the source as in to change the source Imput? This may sound stupid, but I ask because I just checked mine and it doesn't have that.
The only choices I have is the usual HDMI and RVU and USB.. Unless the USB showing is the Allshare connected device?
I have Allshare linked to my P.C.
After the FW update the P.C. shows up as a source, via. Source Input.
Ah! That's cool that they did that. Unfortunately I don't own a windows PC yet, but will be buying the Sony tap 20 soon I think. Or maybe wait for Lenovo's giant all in one/tablet called the "Horizon" so I can't have windows 8 and take advantage of this DLNA. I read that Samsung will be supporting Macs soon with the SDK3 or something like that, I just don't know what they meant.
Yes, I was just posting this issue yesterday, but no one seemed to know the answer to this fix. Mine has been doing this the whole time also and its really annoying so I understand what you mean. I'm hoping that there is a fix to this and that I don't have to disable the Anynet on the TV or use optical instead, because I really like having my set turn on and off with each other. Especially since I have my TV set to turn off everyday at a certain time at night when I fall asleep, and its nice that when this happens, my Onkyo also turns off
GREAT link man! Thanks for that.. I just tried to see if I can delete the TV in the source menu and you can't. Guess the only way is to use Optical and not be able to take advantage of the reciever turning on and off with the TV. Edited by Anthony5362 - 2/1/13 at 4:45am
I somehow missed the posts about AVRs changing the source input. I posted about this when I got my Onkyo and did a lot digging on the net about it. It seems to be a known "feature" of ACR that drives a lot of people crazy, especially those using activities on a Harmony, though it only seems to happen when first turning the TV on and doesn't seem to be limited to Samsung TVs. I turned ARC/Anynet off and am using a optical cable because of it.
Trust me, not to be a Debbie downer, all 65' MH02s have noticeable vertical banding. He just hasn't watched something that exploits it just yet.
True, still haven't seen a 65" with zero noticeable banding - if looking for it, but some are much better than others. Nice to see he got a good one. I'd suggest he doesn't try to look for it though.
I just received my new 60es8000 the other day. It has a November build date on it, hs01 panel, and it came with the latest firmware installed. Some minor flash lighting in bottom left corner and a little clouding on right side. So far unable to detect any banding.
Congrats and welcome! I have the same panel number and your flashlighting and clouding areas and the fact that it's minor match mine.
Dudes, reading with great interest that apparently the new firmware marks a significant improvement to picture quality. I noticed a little difference, but do I need to do a full reset to take advantage of the changes ? Is that a complete reset of the panel, or just the picture settings I.e STANDARD picture reset ?
1000
Hey, 1000. I did not reset anything. I'm planning on it this weekend though as a test.
True, still haven't seen a 65" with zero noticeable banding - if looking for it, but some are much better than others. Nice to see he got a good one. I'd suggest he doesn't try to look for it though.
++1
I agree.. Because once you find it and notice it, that's it! The honeymoon immediately becomes a nightmare. Its best to not look for it, if you don't notice it
This is outrageous. I can not believe that with a set costing this much that anyone should have to live with what I can see. I can still return my set, so I guess I will fall back on that. Aside from this issue though I really like everything else.
If it is just pressure from some screws will Samsung just fix this? Should I contact Samsung or Best Buy?
If you decide to do anything about it, the easiest is contacting Best Buy to return it, not Samsung. Some are worse than others and the QC does suck. It can be diminished somewhat though with proper settings for your panel and many, but not all, will say it also will diminish in about 3 weeks. Feel free to explain your lighting and write down your settings here for us and we'll then give suggestions. Some have said taking the back off the TV and loosening the screws inside to the panel help it too but you that may void your warranty. For more info, check out the Guide link in my signature right below this message. Good luck!
I think what it means is that developer can now use Linux or Mac OS to create smart apps where before, smart apps could only be created when using Windows.
I think what it means is that developer can now use Linux or Mac OS to create smart apps where before, smart apps could only be created when using Windows.