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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 383

post #11461 of 15235
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

hey Anthony
That looks really nice. Presently I am looking at 5.1 speakers for my 55ES8000. Yours look like flat speakers and that would fit in very well with my wall mounted panel.
What speakers have you got? How is the sound you got?

take care

Thanks Turboman! Those speakers are actually "I'n wall" speakers made by "Klipsch" I honestly can't even tell you how they sound yet, since these were just put in while I'm away. But from what the installers said, it sounds amazing. I just need to get either a 60" or a 70" or even maybe Sharps 90" on that wall behind where the new screens going.

Hey, have you heard from the member of this forum that you lent your meter too? I feel awful that this happened to you. I didn't realize now expensive they are and I'm shocked that someone here would have the audacity to scam you like that. I almost feel like buying you another one. Seriously. That's just messed up! You seem like such a nice dude. Well, I hope you got some good news on that smile.gif

Take care
post #11462 of 15235
After almost two day of researching meters, I finally ordered the X-Rite Colormunki Display1. It is the exact same meter as the "meter to have" out there now (X-Rite i1Display3), but they crippled the firmware so that it doesn't get readings quite as fast. The price difference (nearly twice as much) wasn't worth it for just that. Also, it works with the HCFR software, which is free. So, the meter is coming and will be delivered on Tuesday. I'll use the free HCFR software with the AVS test patterns and be able to really dial this TV in. All of that for under $200 ($183.27 shipped).

After all my research, if anyone else is considering a meter, here's what I've found:

Spyder4Elite- This costs the same as the i1Display3 (retail version), but won't calibrate your TV with the included software. You would have to spend another $100 to get the TV calibration upgrade kit for it. It's not supposed to be as good as the i1Display3, so it just doesn't make sense to get this meter.

i1Display3- This is widely regarded as the best meter out there unless you're willing to pay $1,000+ on a meter. Even then it measures up well against those more expensive meters. The retail version (Amazon) is about $250 and comes with the software to calibrate the TV, but it's locked to that software. You won't be able to purchase CalMAN or Chromapure and use the retail meter with those softwares. To use CalMAN or Chromapure with this meter, you have to purchase the OEM version. This version is normally bundled with on or the other softwares. Depending on which version of the software you're wanting to use, be prepared to start at $250 (w/ CalMAN Tutorial version) or $420 (w/ Chromapure Basic). If you want to spend more than what I did, or don't think you can use the free software, you should get this. Those softwares have very good step-by-step procedures that walk you through the calibration. The free software does not.

Colormunki Display1- This is the exact same meter as the i1Display3, but has crippled firmware that slows down the reading of the meter. It also comes with software that does not have all the features that the software that comes with the i1Display (retail version) comes with. If you're using the calibration software that comes with this meter, you won't be able to set 10p white balance, but everything else will be calibrated. If you are comfortable using the free HCFR calibration software, which is free, then this is a no-brainer. You're basically getting the i1Display3 meter and can use it with free software to calibrate everything including 10p white balance. All for under $200!

If anyone is interested, I'll be more than happy to share my calibrated settings when it's done.
post #11463 of 15235
So dither isn't what I think it is? I see millions of green pixels on my Plasmas if I sit too close. I always thought that was dither. Yea, I can jack up the contrast all the way up to 100 on the 60" I keep it at 98 though. Another thing that's interesting is that my 65" can't go above 85 and I tried this without using my Onkyo. Just straight from my Comcast box to TV.
post #11464 of 15235
Thanks jestered! I know you spent quite some time on that so glad you figured out what you needed. Yes, please post them! The more the merrier here! How long till you receive it?
post #11465 of 15235
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

Thanks jestered! I know you spent quite some time on that so glad you figured out what you needed. Yes, please post them! The more the merrier here! How long till you receive it?

It is being delivered Tuesday. I'm gonna be itching to get at it, but I probably won't have time to do the calibration until Wednesday. To properly calibrate the TV using one of these meters, it's going to take a couple of hours it looks like (if not more). I can't wait to do it though!
post #11466 of 15235
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

This was the one I got for $200 on sale. I'm surprised we don't hear more people talk about using the sound share with these TVs. This is a amazing feature to have, but I don't think many people know you can have a wireless sound dock, or sound bar with these TVs

http://www.samsung.com/us/video/home-theater/DA-E651/ZA?from_mobile=true

I saw that too but the one I went for looked a lot classier.
post #11467 of 15235
Thanks for the heads up everyone. Im going to go in and look at the set later today. Ill make sure to let yall know how it turned out. smile.gif
post #11468 of 15235
Quote:
Originally Posted by tylerSC View Post

What panel version does the 55ES8000 use? TS02, US02, or other? The panel lottery is a concern with certain Samsung LEDs.

My 55 has a TS01. I have no idea if this is considered good, but it looks remarkable and is better than the SQ01 in my old 52B750, which was a beautiful panel save for some chroma upsampling issues that it had. My TS01 does not exhibit this issue.
post #11469 of 15235
Since we're sharing pics of our set ups...



From left to right:

Subwoofer on the floor (under the clock on the wall)
Front speakers on each side of the TV
Center speaker under the TV
Front height speakers on the wall above the TV
The TV
Surround speakers on speaker stands
Surround back speakers on the back wall on each side of the window
My favorite guitar ever (Martin next to the fireplace)
Ummmmmmmm... yeah, nevermind the camera there

My favorite thing about my set up is that all my equipment is in the room behind the wall the TV is on. Everyone always asks me where all my stuff is. I love the clean look!
post #11470 of 15235
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

Very cool there Shark! I swear at first, I thought you had the new 4K Sony with the speakers attached..lol!

LOL I wish.

The TV is mounted on a diagonal wall in the living room. It swings out so it can directly face the couch.
post #11471 of 15235
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post


My favorite thing about my set up is that all my equipment is in the room behind the wall the TV is on. Everyone always asks me where all my stuff is. I love the clean look!

I'm considering doing that, I have a closet on the other side of the wall my tv is mounted on.
post #11472 of 15235
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZiggyGod View Post

I have a couple questions about the UN55ES8000. My current TV is a PN51D8000 before that I had a Panasonic TC-P42C2. So as you can see I am only used to plasma TVs but I am by no means a fanboy and I dont mind switching to LED from plasma. My PN51D8000 broke and thankfully I had a warranty through Brandsmart. I got credited my full purchase amount, and now have a store credit for $1300 I was planning on getting the Panasonic TC-P55VT50 but according to everyone I have spoken to in Brandsmart no one store carries that model line of TV and its not even in their system. -_- So my other alternative was the UN55ES8000.

I used my PN51D8000 as my gaming tv for 2D/3D games on my xbox, ps3, and pc. I used that TV as my PC's monitor 24/7 and it did a great job as that. I watched a lot of 2D/3D movies through my PC on it and it looked great. Of course there were a lot of ghosting, which was fixed to an extent by calibrating but it was still there on certain games/movies.

My question are as follows. From what I have read through the reviews on Amazon, AVS, and CNet the ES8000 has its issues but have they been fixed via the firmware updates? Will this TV provide me with a great picture when gaming in 2D/3D, watching movies in 2D/3D, and as well when using as a monitor? How is the ghosting in 3D movies and games on this TV compared to the older models? Will my blacks and whites be as good as a plasma? I see this TV has CMR 960 and the previous line had 840, whats that lol? Last question the TV has 240hz whats the difference from 120hz? Is this like the plasma 600hz?

I wont lie I am nervous to make the switch from plasma to LED but if y'all speak highly and great about this TV I will definitely take the plunge and buy it.

Thanks smile.gif

If you've never owned an edge-lit LED display before, possibly the greatest difference you will (or may) notice is that the Sammy has a considerably narrower viewing angle. Off-axis viewing (greater than about 15~20 degrees) you will begin to notice some washing-out of colors, especially on flesh tones. Not a problem if you plan to do all your watching directly in front of it. The 65" model also has banding issues in every one I have seen, some less, some more, but visible in all (if you know what to look for). The problem has not been reported in the 60" and smaller displays. Somewhere I recall hearing that some 65" Sonys were also experiencing similar banding problems. This is believed to be a physical/mechanical issue and not correctable. I have it to a limited degree with my 65" as well. It becomes even more noticeable with panning scenes (where the camera pans left-to-right or vice-versa). Strangely, I have not seen the problem at all in any 4:3 content, such as some commercials inserted between HD programming. I find this particularly bizarre, as you'd think if it was truly a mechanical issue that it's be present all the time. It isn't. In fact, you're more apt to seldom notice it except with certain solid backgrounds, especially off-white and light grey. Example, a live weather shot one morning last week was of an area totally socked-in with zero-visibility fog. On this shot the banding (even on my set) was severe, but that so far has been the worst I have seen. Unless you're a true video purist, it may be an insignificant flaw unless you draw the short straw and get a particularly bad one. Return/exchange is your only recourse. Mine is minor, I can live with it. Again, this anomaly is only being reported with the 65" model.
post #11473 of 15235
Anyone have a summary of what FW rls 1046 gives us (or fixed)?
post #11474 of 15235
I heard there's a game on tonight, super something ??

Might give it a chance, I think I just about get what it's all about wink.gif
post #11475 of 15235
About that game, I will say that the Ravens helmets are deeeep shiny black just as I saw them on a vt50.
post #11476 of 15235
Thought I had it figured but why when the 49rs were 3rd and goal then didn't progress they got a punt at goal? I thought possession passed to the Ravens?

Also the Ravens ran backwards once and a 1st and 10 went to a 2nd and 13, I thought it stayed at 2nd and 10 if you don't progress even if you go backwards?
post #11477 of 15235
Quote:
Originally Posted by arenaman View Post

Thought I had it figured but why when the 49rs were 3rd and goal then didn't progress they got a punt at goal? I thought possession passed to the Ravens?

Also the Ravens ran backwards once and a 1st and 10 went to a 2nd and 13, I thought it stayed at 2nd and 10 if you don't progress even if you go backwards?

You get 4 downs. If they had gone for it on 4th down and didn't make it the other team would have got the ball right there. They punted the ball so the other team would have farther to go to score.

You always start where you get tackled. If you go back then that's where you start on the next play. The first down marker doesn't move back with you, so if you lose 3 yards on 1st down, then it's 2nd down and 13 to get a first down.
post #11478 of 15235
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

You get 4 downs. If they had gone for it on 4th down and didn't make it the other team would have got the ball right there. They punted the ball so the other team would have farther to go to score.

You always start where you get tackled. If you go back then that's where you start on the next play. The first down marker doesn't move back with you, so if you lose 3 yards on 1st down, then it's 2nd down and 13 to get a first down.

Ah right thanks, so many stoppages in this game (the game in general) which spoils it a bit. It's more like a game of chess. Not bad though and it's gaining in popularity in the UK year on year
post #11479 of 15235
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

Bladrunner1959 - I'm not married but I might as well be. That was the only way I was able to purchase the beastly Studio CC690 center channel which was "off budget," "off balance sheet," and not, technically, an "approved purchase acquisition" going through normal channels (pun intended!)

This was one of those "ask for forgiveness" as opposed to "ask for permission" situations. I'm allowed one a year as long as it's within reasonable guidelines.

Suggestions to obtain purchase authorization for upgrading HT equipment and projects:

1. But honey, this is so we can spend quality time together.

2. Don't you want to see your movies in their best light?

3. This will make our place more attractive to other guests so we can entertain here and we don't have to leave home and I won't get a DUI - - thus spending two and three times OVER what it would cost to do the upgrade to our Home Theater.

4. It will increase the value of our home....

5. I just can't live with myself if I can't provide you with the very best !!!

smile.gifcool.giftongue.gif

6. Honey, with the light of the calibrated panel shining on your face, you look more beautiful than ever!
post #11480 of 15235
Enjoying the look of the game on my set.
Loving it.....but.......I am having some issues that are shaking the very foundations of my faith.

What kind of a merciful God would allow the power to remain on all the way through Beyonces' half-time show, only to let it go out almost immediately after.
I don't think He chooses sides for a game, so...........I'm having some big issues here.
Lol
post #11481 of 15235
Turboman123, that was genius as well...a very great plan!

BPWingn, ditto...but I would say we really hit a black level and shadow detail test on the outtage tonight. Beyonce, just not football anthem material.
post #11482 of 15235
On the 8000. When you guys say reset are you guys talking about TV reset or Picture reset? After update. Why is that some have update 1064 and some 1064.2? What is the differance? why do I not have the option for 1064.2? I'm in south Texas. Thanks BTW great forum! I love reading all the post.I tried some of the setting you guys posted very cool. The best picture on a TV I ever seen. My buddys freak out.Keep up the testing.Great job.
post #11483 of 15235
I have not even taken it out of the box yet but have a quick setup question. This will be controlled via RS-232 from my Crestron system. I noticed when the display unit was powered up at the store that it powered up to the "hub"? (I guess that's what it's called).
Can it be configured to start up on a selected input vs the "hub"? All my source equipment is rack mounted in another room. A AVR is doing all the source switching so only one HDMI input will be used. As such, I only wish it to come on to the input connected to the AVR.
I will connect it to the internet but don't plan to use that feature much.
post #11484 of 15235
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

6. Honey, with the light of the calibrated panel shining on your face, you look more beautiful than ever!

Touche!!!
post #11485 of 15235
Quote:
Originally Posted by montegoblueguy View Post

On the 8000. When you guys say reset are you guys talking about TV reset or Picture reset? After update. Why is that some have update 1064 and some 1064.2? What is the differance? why do I not have the option for 1064.2? I'm in south Texas. Thanks BTW great forum! I love reading all the post.I tried some of the setting you guys posted very cool. The best picture on a TV I ever seen. My buddys freak out.Keep up the testing.Great job.

The FM official noted update is 1046.2. If your set is displaying just 1046 it is current. They are one in the same.

As for the resetting, it is the TV reset. By doing this everything is reset back to factory. You'll have go back in and setup everything from store mode to home mode etc...
post #11486 of 15235
I found this great info on Crutchfield.com. There's a lot more to this, but just highlighted a little of it. Mainly the "Motion Lighting" that I've been using and getting amazing results from. Better than the Eco sensor. Its strange that they both do the same though.


Note: You can adjust and store Picture Settings for each external device connected to the TV.
Motion Lighting: The TV automatically adjusts the brightness of the screen in response to the brightness of the room. In bright light, the screen brightens. In dim light, the screen dims.

LED Motion Plus: This function removes drag from fast scenes with a lot of movement to provide a clear picture.

HDMI Black Level: You can select the black level on the screen to adjust the screen depth when you have a component connected via HDMI to the television. You can select either Normal or Low.

Noise Filtration: The Samsung TV provides digital noise and MPEG noise filtration.

Digital Noise Filter: If the broadcast signal received by your TV is weak, you can activate the Digital Noise Reduction feature to help reduce any static and ghosting that may appear on the screen. You can select Low, Medium, High, Auto, or Off.
MPEG Noise Filter: This filter reduces MPEG noise of the picture. You can set the MPEG Noise Filter to Low, Medium, High, Auto, or Off.
Film Mode: The TV can be set to automatically sense and process film signals from all sources and adjust the picture from optimum quality. Film mode is supported in TV, AV, Component (480i/1080i),

If anyone else is interested in reading a lot more to this, check out Crutchfield.com and look up the 55" ES8000. Then click on "get more info" and a ton of info will show.

Garnoch, this would be good to add to your guide. Not just what I posted since the stuff I posted everyone pretty much knows about, but the rest of this info that I didn't post. I learned some things from it myself.

As far as the CE workaround goes, that was very helpful. I used it all the time, but now after the update, My picture isn't dimming like it used to and I'm wondering if its because of my settings. It would be very nice if Samsung will tell us which settings helps with this, because I'm trying to figure out why Im able to have my brightness at 45-46 and not have the CE dimming issue anymore. I can even put my brightness on 42 and not have that issue. But, 42 is too low
Edited by Anthony5362 - 2/4/13 at 5:52am
post #11487 of 15235
Quote:
Originally Posted by montegoblueguy View Post

On the 8000. When you guys say reset are you guys talking about TV reset or Picture reset? After update. Why is that some have update 1064 and some 1064.2? What is the differance? why do I not have the option for 1064.2? I'm in south Texas. Thanks BTW great forum! I love reading all the post.I tried some of the setting you guys posted very cool. The best picture on a TV I ever seen. My buddys freak out.Keep up the testing.Great job.

Thanks!
Make sure you don't have the "alternative update" highlighted because that happened to me which meant my TV didn't take the update. If this is highlighted, all you have to do is click it and your TV will turn off and then back on with the 1046.2 update.

Nice cars man! Is that a Mercedes CLS In front of the BMW? I had one of those for a couple years and loved it. Cars is my main hobby, before electronics anyways..biggrin.gif
post #11488 of 15235
So here's a great way to see the difference from before the update and after. If no one else is getting these results, then it has to do with your picture settings. This is why i always start off from Default and tweak from there and only TRY others settings first and then reset and start over with my own just to see the differences so I get the BEST out of my $3K TV. I am only posting this because i want people to get the BEST out of their sets. Just trying to help here. I am in no way a Fanboy, as if you read my Review of this TV on Amazon back from March, you will see I gave it a 1 star which it deserved back then. But, Samsung has stepped up here in a great way and they deserve credit when they earned it and they definitely earned it with this:)

So here's a before the update pic. You can clearly see the flash lighting in the corners and sides and bottom of the screen



Now, Here's after the update. You can see the pitch black letter box bars with NO flash lighting whatsoever! These pics are taken of Comcast Cable. Not Blu ray.



post #11489 of 15235
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

I found this great info on Crutchfield.com. There's a lot more to this, but just highlighted a little of it. Mainly the "Motion Lighting" that I've been using and getting amazing results from. Better than the Eco sensor. Its strange that they both do the same though
...
As far as the CE workaround goes, that was very helpful. I used it all the time, but now after the update, My picture isn't dimming like it used to and I'm wondering if its because of my settings. It would be very nice if Samsung will tell us which settings helps with this, because I'm trying to figure out why Im able to have my brightness at 45-46 and not have the CE dimming issue anymore. I can even put my brightness on 42 and not have that issue. But, 42 is too low

Here is more precise and detailed explanation of all terms used on Sammy LCD set. Not actually es8000 series, but reading is very informative
post #11490 of 15235
Quote:
Originally Posted by Op's Guy View Post

The FM official noted update is 1046.2. If your set is displaying just 1046 it is current. They are one in the same.

As for the resetting, it is the TV reset. By doing this everything is reset back to factory. You'll have go back in and setup everything from store mode to home mode etc...
Thanks. So this needs to be done after every FW update?
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