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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 400

post #11971 of 15294
this is great, the posts here are awesome and not splitting threads is going to keep this thread strong, it is rockin almost 12,000 posts. it really is cool having such a wicked community to hang with.

turboman, do you think you can get peak white high enuf with backlight at 1 or 2? there is a balance between checking black and still being able to get peak white high enough when you top out contrast, right?
post #11972 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

Honestly, your better off getting the 60" unless you don't mind playing the lottery. What I mean is, the 65" seem to have vertical banding issues, where as the 60" don't have noticeable banding like the 65" if you get the 65" just be prepared to maybe have to return some until you get a decent panel. Or, you can wait until March and check out the F8000.

If your looking for even bigger then 65", Samsung confirmed that they are releasing a few models in a 70"

Here's their 2013 lineup

http://un65f8000.com/uploads/Samsug_2013_LED_Product_Guide.pdf

So do we have any idea on the release date &/or proce of these sets? I would certainly be interested in the 75" versions as they would fit perfectly between my in-wall speakers.
post #11973 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

jester has the 65, mine is the 55. I am going to take another pass today and try and get the calibration perfect.

Turboman, many thanks for your comments, they were very informative. I'm going to try calibrating at 75% luminance as you suggested to see if that makes a difference. I expect it will since my htpc is set to output 0-255 rgb
hello 10k
That with the 0-255rgb looks Ok from the luminance levels you have at 0% and 100%. Just check those luminance levels when you set black level to low. The setting that gives max contrast is the right one.
I think your calibration with 75% will be much the same, since your 100% does not seem to be clipped, as greyscale is perfect. However it is still good practice to do gamut calibration at 75% luminance.
I would be concerned if you use patterns sent from htpc , as the PC video card might introduce unwanted changes. I would recommend AVSHD patterns from a blue-ray player.
post #11974 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick-t View Post

this is great, the posts here are awesome and not splitting threads is going to keep this thread strong, it is rockin almost 12,000 posts. it really is cool having such a wicked community to hang with.

turboman, do you think you can get peak white high enuf with backlight at 1 or 2? there is a balance between checking black and still being able to get peak white high enough when you top out contrast, right?
hey nick
I have contrast maxed out in Movie (see my post 8007 or around that). However, maxing contrast in Standard would cause clipping.
You must set backlight to your own liking, there is no fixed rule, and it depends on room light conditions. I have backlight 5 for a half dark room, and with my settings I get a peak white of around 120cd/m2. That is the reference level most review sites use.
However, when my living room is bright in daylight, I could increase backlight to 20, and still don't have enough. Peak white is then 300 or 400, not sure, but very high.
Very low backlight could be possible in a complete dark room, and it also depends on your screen size and how close you sit to it.
No fixed rule for backlight: you must be able to see dark scenes properly, and bright scenes should not look dull, but also not cause eyestrain.
post #11975 of 15294
Hey 10k,

You have the x-rite colormunki display or the display pro?
I'm thinking of getting the one... looks fun
post #11976 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

hello 10k
That with the 0-255rgb looks Ok from the luminance levels you have at 0% and 100%. Just check those luminance levels when you set black level to low. The setting that gives max contrast is the right one.
I think your calibration with 75% will be much the same, since your 100% does not seem to be clipped, as greyscale is perfect. However it is still good practice to do gamut calibration at 75% luminance.
I would be concerned if you use patterns sent from htpc , as the PC video card might introduce unwanted changes. I would recommend AVSHD patterns from a blue-ray player.
Turboman, thank you for the feedback. Unfortunately I have long since gotten rid of my bluray player (PS3) and really only use streaming and cable TV. I agree with you that HTPC can do funny things to the colors (just go read HTPC forum here and see all the problems people have). I'm going to re-do the calibration by playing the mp4 files on the TV streamed from my computer using DLNA. That should result in a calibration perfect for the TV, and I will just have to deal with any problems HTPC is introducing later. Thanks again, you and jester have saved me an incredible amount of time getting started with all this.

I will update my original post once I have a calibration that looks as good as Jestered's.

cheers
10k
post #11977 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek Gosselin View Post

Hey 10k,

You have the x-rite colormunki display or the display pro?
I'm thinking of getting the one... looks fun
Derek, colormunki display. The xrite i1 display pro is the same hardware but has different firmware which allows you to use some expensive software with it. I got mine locally at a camera shop, but here is an amazon link to the colormunki display http://www.amazon.com/Xrite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display1/dp/B0055MBQOM

If you search jestered's posts you will find one where he summarizes the pro/con of the popular meters that dont cost an arm and leg.
post #11978 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

Derek, colormunki display. The xrite i1 display pro is the same hardware but has different firmware which allows you to use some expensive software with it. I got mine locally at a camera shop, but here is an amazon link to the colormunki display http://www.amazon.com/Xrite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display1/dp/B0055MBQOM

If you search jestered's posts you will find one where he summarizes the pro/con of the popular meters that dont cost an arm and leg.

It's fairly easy to use?
post #11979 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

Turboman, thank you for the feedback. Unfortunately I have long since gotten rid of my bluray player (PS3) and really only use streaming and cable TV. I agree with you that HTPC can do funny things to the colors (just go read HTPC forum here and see all the problems people have). I'm going to re-do the calibration by playing the mp4 files on the TV streamed from my computer using DLNA. That should result in a calibration perfect for the TV, and I will just have to deal with any problems HTPC is introducing later. Thanks again, you and jester have saved me an incredible amount of time getting started with all this.

I will update my original post once I have a calibration that looks as good as Jestered's.

cheers
10k

hello Derek
Or mp4 files on USB stick. I tried that and it worked, but I did not make an exact comparison with patterns played from Bluray.
post #11980 of 15294
I appreciate Jestered's and 10k's posted settings, realizing they have different panels. What I notice is the marked difference in their Color Space Custom settings. For example Jestered Green: 0-14-8, 10k Green: 8-53-4, Cyan Jester: 0-32-32, Cyan 10k: 1-59-59, Jester Yellow: 79-34-13, 10k Yellow: 59-53-5. Those are way different and they are using the same equipment and get similar end results. Can anyone explain that?
post #11981 of 15294
Is there such thing as a colormeter rental. I would like to try one for a week or so, would be nice if I could find a local vendor that has these available for weekly rentals. like a photo/camera store or something...

Anyone ever hear of such a thing?
post #11982 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

OK it's getting late but I think I have gotten to a good spot with my calibrated results. This stuff is pretty fun, well worth the money spent considering I stayed in tonight instead of spending about the same amount at the bars, except now I get a nice picture on my TV instead of a hangover.

Here's my results file you can load into HFCR calibrated results.zip 6k .zip file

Gamma


Overall pretty good but I think the Gamma levels could use some work. Any suggestions Jestered?

For better gamma you should do :

-recommended gamma target is 2,22
-to alter it, you can try other setting of gamma at picture settings (set gamma at +1), but then, your calibration will be probably off
-If you have calibrated grayscale and CMS (it seems to be OK), than you can flatten gamma curve by 10pt settings (you CAN NOT ALTER GAMMA with RGB GAINS)
-If you need to lower gamma (in your case 80% and up), tou need to RAISE green level at point 8 by click or two (no more at first iteration), then by measuring grayscale at 80% you have to set red and blue to be equal.
- Do it in small steps, then remeasure 70% and 90% grayscale as well.

Note : white consists from 71% of geen, 21% of red, 8% of blue, so if you need to lower gamma, you have to set higher luminance and common way for it is to first set level of geen.

Some guru calibrators advice for 2pt and 10pt systems is : Set RGB offset at 30% and RGB gain at 100%, then calibrate 10pt.
Edited by prsut - 2/7/13 at 12:50pm
post #11983 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

hello Jestered,
I have a different take on this. Luminance is affected mainly by backlight setting and contrast. And minimum black depends mainly on backlight and brightness.
Target is to have maximum contrast ratio. This can be achieved by increasing contrast and reducing backlight, for a given peak white output. Contrast can be increased as long as no clipping occurs. Clipping is most likely to show if one color drops in level at 100% on the greyscale. Samsung has set the settings of the Movie mode quite conservative in order to prevent clipping. Standard Mode is not so conservative and you have to watch out for clipping.
But for Movie mode, I think you can set contrast high. I think 10ks value of 93 is good, and I have mine at 100 (post 8007), and still no clipping. With contrast maximized without clipping, set your backlight to get the target you want.

Brightness setting: select a picture with 0%black for measuring, but the whole screen should not be black to prevent dimming. APL picture is good for that. Set a higher brightness and measure. Lower brightness and measure. Continue step by step until black level does not reduce further. The highest brightness level where you reach that lowest black is the best. If you reduce brightness further, you crush blacks without reducing minimumblack level.

Also, no point calibration color and tint. All corrections can be done in the CMS custom color settings. Do the custom color settings at 100% saturation and 75% luminance (safer in case you have some clipping at 100% luminance)

Turboman is right, here are answers from Tom Huffman to my question about 100%, 75% saturations, levels...
post #11984 of 15294
Hello,

I have a Samsung UN65ES8000FXZA with back light issues... The corners have white spots (only when is black)
I called Samsung and they sent a tech out and they swapped the LED and that LED had dead pixels..
So they are going to tell best buy to exchange it for a brand new samsung tv..

My question is do you think the new one could have dead pixels or should i keep mine?

Also when are the new Samsung tv's coming out? should I wait for that so I can "upgrade"?

Thanks
post #11985 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by supernet9 View Post

Hello,

I have a Samsung UN65ES8000FXZA with back light issues... The corners have white spots (only when is black)
I called Samsung and they sent a tech out and they swapped the LED and that LED had dead pixels..
So they are going to tell best buy to exchange it for a brand new samsung tv..

My question is do you think the new one could have dead pixels or should i keep mine?

Also when are the new Samsung tv's coming out? should I wait for that so I can "upgrade"?

Thanks

The white spots were they soft ball sized dim white clouds? If so that is clouding and will desipate over time or panel screws can be loosen to take pressure of the lcd screen.

If it's only only one dead pixel i would live with it, unless you sit 1ft from the screen, then yes return it.

my 2 cents

Derek
post #11986 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek Gosselin View Post

The white spots were they soft ball sized dim white clouds? If so that is clouding and will desipate over time or panel screws can be loosen to take pressure of the lcd screen.

If it's only only one dead pixel i would live with it, unless you sit 1ft from the screen, then yes return it.

my 2 cents

Derek


WIll it really? Can I take a picture and post it?

When the techs came out, they unscrewed it and same thing.
post #11987 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by supernet9 View Post

WIll it really? Can I take a picture and post it?

When the techs came out, they unscrewed it and same thing.

Yeh post some pictures! My set had clouding when I first got it.
post #11988 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek Gosselin View Post

The white spots were they soft ball sized dim white clouds? If so that is clouding and will desipate over time or panel screws can be loosen to take pressure of the lcd screen.

If it's only only one dead pixel i would live with it, unless you sit 1ft from the screen, then yes return it.

my 2 cents

Derek

My recommendation with dead pixels is if you find one prior to a return/exchange period expiring, exchange it. Granted, I've probably exchanged more sets for dead pixels than one can count..... but I only say this because I let a dead pixel slide on a previous set years ago and once I noticed it.... regardless of how small it may be..... human nature will have your eyes gravitate toward the dead pixel. Never again will I make that mistake again. As for likelyhood of another dead pixel.... let's just say out of 7 ES8000s I had, four of them had dead pixels.

As for the white spots, I agree with Derek.... the clouding should lessen fairly quickly. If it hasn't within a week or appears to get worse, then it may be an issue.
post #11989 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

My recommendation with dead pixels is if you find one prior to a return/exchange period expiring, exchange it. Granted, I've probably exchanged more sets for dead pixels than one can count..... but I only say this because I let a dead pixel slide on a previous set years ago and once I noticed it.... regardless of how small it may be..... human nature will have your eyes gravitate toward the dead pixel. Never again will I make that mistake again. As for likelyhood of another dead pixel.... let's just say out of 7 ES8000s I had, four of them had dead pixels.

As for the white spots, I agree with Derek.... the clouding should lessen fairly quickly. If it hasn't within a week or appears to get worse, then it may be an issue.

LOL its so true... about your eyes gravitating to it.

try leaving a pixel flipper on for a full day. Worked on mine, i had a stuck pixel and it went away after i left the flipper on all day.
post #11990 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek Gosselin View Post

Yeh post some pictures! My set had clouding when I first got it.

My TV is 5 months ago and calibrated by Best Buy 4 months ago..

So time has past.
post #11991 of 15294
massaging the screen lightly with a micro fiber cloth has shown to lessen clouding too..
post #11992 of 15294
Running a dead pixel fixer has helped people with clouding too for some reason
post #11993 of 15294
OK I'm back. I spent some time configuring the TV today and got gamma and RGB levels as close as I could. I tried to configure colors at 75% luminance as suggested, but once I got 75% perfect, putting a 100% luminance color window on the screen measured at 150%+ luminance. I wasn't able to get 75 and 100 to both be correct at the same time so I calibrated for 100 and left it at that.

I'm wondering if maybe this means I set my contrast too high and the TV doesnt have enough range. Anyway thats enough for tonight, if anyone has a 55" es8000 and wants to take a look at my meter calibrated settings, click the link in my sig.
post #11994 of 15294
Well ijust sent thru pics yesterday to the service center who repaird samsung tv's he had forwaded the photos to the service manager and they had confirmed the TV is classified DOA

What causes Banding is Dead LEDS in the TV

So anyone with any kind of banding return it or get a panel replacement

Thanks
post #11995 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

OK I'm back. I spent some time configuring the TV today and got gamma and RGB levels as close as I could. I tried to configure colors at 75% luminance as suggested, but once I got 75% perfect, putting a 100% luminance color window on the screen measured at 150%+ luminance. I wasn't able to get 75 and 100 to both be correct at the same time so I calibrated for 100 and left it at that.

I'm wondering if maybe this means I set my contrast too high and the TV doesnt have enough range. Anyway thats enough for tonight, if anyone has a 55" es8000 and wants to take a look at my meter calibrated settings, click the link in my sig.

Your new calibration readings are insanely spot on! I'll have to mess with mine a little bit over the weekend. I plan on lowering my backlight and upping the contrast. Where did you end up setting your luminance level at? I think I'm going to use 35ftL when I bring my backlight down.
post #11996 of 15294
Traded up from my 55 to a 60 today. The 60 has an HS01 panel. It's beautiful.
post #11997 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkcohen View Post

Traded up from my 55 to a 60 today. The 60 has an HS01 panel. It's beautiful.

Congrats, shark. That's the panel I have and although I didn't have another like you, I love it very much.

10k, Jestered, Turbo... Thanks for all the calibration stuff, and 10k, thanks for testing CNET's, mine and Jestered's so we can really see differences. That was cool. It was interesting to see how your screenshots didn't match theirs with the same setting, which I assume means that if Jestered input yours, his screenshots would also look different than yours.
post #11998 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek Gosselin View Post

Is there such thing as a colormeter rental. I would like to try one for a week or so, would be nice if I could find a local vendor that has these available for weekly rentals. like a photo/camera store or something...

Anyone ever hear of such a thing?
In December, I wrote a post about sending around my meter on loan to the users in this thread, and around 8 users were interested. We have been communicating by PM about the practical aspects. If you are interested, send me a PM, and I will add you on the list.
post #11999 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

OK I'm back. I spent some time configuring the TV today and got gamma and RGB levels as close as I could. I tried to configure colors at 75% luminance as suggested, but once I got 75% perfect, putting a 100% luminance color window on the screen measured at 150%+ luminance. I wasn't able to get 75 and 100 to both be correct at the same time so I calibrated for 100 and left it at that.

I'm wondering if maybe this means I set my contrast too high and the TV doesnt have enough range. Anyway thats enough for tonight, if anyone has a 55" es8000 and wants to take a look at my meter calibrated settings, click the link in my sig.
hello 10k
Sounds like a wrong calibration operation. If you get good results at 100%, you should get good or even better results at 75%. For 75%, your reference is white at 75%, not 100%. So white, and RGBYCM should all be at 75%.
post #12000 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by prsut View Post

For better gamma you should do :

-recommended gamma target is 2,22
-to alter it, you can try other setting of gamma at picture settings (set gamma at +1), but then, your calibration will be probably off
-If you have calibrated grayscale and CMS (it seems to be OK), than you can flatten gamma curve by 10pt settings (you CAN NOT ALTER GAMMA with RGB GAINS)
-If you need to lower gamma (in your case 80% and up), tou need to RAISE green level at point 8 by click or two (no more at first iteration), then by measuring grayscale at 80% you have to set red and blue to be equal.
- Do it in small steps, then remeasure 70% and 90% grayscale as well.

Note : white consists from 71% of geen, 21% of red, 8% of blue, so if you need to lower gamma, you have to set higher luminance and common way for it is to first set level of geen.

Some guru calibrators advice for 2pt and 10pt systems is : Set RGB offset at 30% and RGB gain at 100%, then calibrate 10pt.
hello prsut,
I think it is something else. Normally I have an almost flat Gamma, and Jestered also has a flat Gamma. So I think 10k has a different problem, and he has to find the cause of that. I suggested that he looks at his pattern source.
Also when I change the Gamma setting, Gamma curve moves almost horizontally up or down.
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