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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 401

post #12001 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebignewt View Post

I appreciate Jestered's and 10k's posted settings, realizing they have different panels. What I notice is the marked difference in their Color Space Custom settings. For example Jestered Green: 0-14-8, 10k Green: 8-53-4, Cyan Jester: 0-32-32, Cyan 10k: 1-59-59, Jester Yellow: 79-34-13, 10k Yellow: 59-53-5. Those are way different and they are using the same equipment and get similar end results. Can anyone explain that?
The color space settings should be evaluated in combination with the color and hue settings. I haven't looked at the details of jestered and 10k settings, but they could be different.
It is best to just leave color/hue at standard, and only calibrate the color space custom settings. That saves time, and it is also easier then to compare the settings of different users.
post #12002 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

Just ask yourself if from a year from now if you will still be in this honeymoon phase and if not then swap it. Or like you said, just enjoy it. I don't know what your financial situation is, so I don't know how long you plan on keeping this TV. I don't mind mine anymore because I usually upgrade every year..lol! But I have to stop that. Its like throwing money out the window.

Yup, money out the window:D
I do an upgrade every 2 yrs, so far from what i can tell every 2nd yr is a revision of the 1st, kinda like an upgraded version of it.
A was 1st with B being a revision, C 1st, D revision, E 1st, F revision.........any1 see this also?
sorta like nvidia does with their graphics cards.
post #12003 of 15499
Here is the pic.. What do you think?


How can I tell what panel I have?
post #12004 of 15499
well my 65es800 is all boxed up ready for a return , Not to sure on what to do now I would like to get the 60" but i have seen some guys on here with the panel lottery with that one aswell

The place iam returning it to i work at and there isnt anymore instock and i cant go 2 weeks without a TV

So i have x2 es558000 instock. Thinking on getting that or a Pana THL60E55A

There is a place with a sammy 60es6500
post #12005 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by supernet9 View Post

Here is the pic.. What do you think?


How can I tell what panel I have?
It will state on the box what panel. It will say Version TS02, or Version US02, etc. Also is listed in the white square on the back of the TV panel itself. TS01 and TS02 are supposed to be the good Samsung panels. Not sure about US02, but reportdly it is good also according to user feedback.
post #12006 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaosx77 View Post

well my 65es800 is all boxed up ready for a return , Not to sure on what to do now I would like to get the 60" but i have seen some guys on here with the panel lottery with that one aswell

The place iam returning it to i work at and there isnt anymore instock and i cant go 2 weeks without a TV

So i have x2 es558000 instock. Thinking on getting that or a Pana THL60E55A

There is a place with a sammy 60es6500

I know you don't want to be without a set for a period of time, but if the 60ES8000 is what you really want... I think it is better to be patient and be happy with the set for years to come, then be semi happy for a few weeks and regret not waiting for the set you wanted. Difference from 65 to 60 is not much, but from 65 to 55 will have you feeling you are watching something really small.
post #12007 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

I know you don't want to be without a set for a period of time, but if the 60ES8000 is what you really want... I think it is better to be patient and be happy with the set for years to come, then be semi happy for a few weeks and regret not waiting for the set you wanted. Difference from 65 to 60 is not much, but from 65 to 55 will have you feeling you are watching something really small.

If i had a backup tv i would but my wife dont really want another but i think i could talk her in to it

I can grab the 60es6500 from another store here locally they have 1 instock

Would prefer to keep bussiness with my work

here is the pana that ic catching my eye because of the ips panel

http://panasonic.com.au/Products/VIErA+televisions/LCD+TVs/TH-L60E55A/Overview
post #12008 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

OK I'm back. I spent some time configuring the TV today and got gamma and RGB levels as close as I could. I tried to configure colors at 75% luminance as suggested, but once I got 75% perfect, putting a 100% luminance color window on the screen measured at 150%+ luminance. I wasn't able to get 75 and 100 to both be correct at the same time so I calibrated for 100 and left it at that.

I'm wondering if maybe this means I set my contrast too high and the TV doesnt have enough range. Anyway thats enough for tonight, if anyone has a 55" es8000 and wants to take a look at my meter calibrated settings, click the link in my sig.

would it be too much to ask you to make a standard settings calibration, also do you game on ur set console/PC? i would really like to see a "entertainment" settings calibration if at all possible........thx
post #12009 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaosx77 View Post

Well ijust sent thru pics yesterday to the service center who repaird samsung tv's he had forwaded the photos to the service manager and they had confirmed the TV is classified DOA

What causes Banding is Dead LEDS in the TV

So anyone with any kind of banding return it or get a panel replacement

Thanks


What? I don't think the service center has a clue what they are talking about. Your set looks like the classic banding issue seen here by many owners of the 65" version of this model family. Your LEDs are likely fine and not dead. What causes the banding is Samsung's apparent inability to create a film layer to dissipate the LED lighting that is a consistent thickness from top to bottom and side to side (thus the light and dark bands).

This problem seems to plague the 65" set more than the 60" and lower models.

Consensus here is that there may be variation in how bad the banding is from set to set, but you will likely never find a 65" set in this model family that does not have the issue altogether.

The banding on your pictures really didn't look horrible in my opinion. Yes noticeable, but not horrible. My set has it as well, but the bands are inconsistently sized making the effect even worse and more heavily banded on the left as opposed to the right (see my past pictures).

I just received set #4 from Amazon yesterday and will be setting it up side by side with #3 to see which is better. Then I will likely pick one and stick with it. Banding stinks when watching my beloved soccer matches, but otherwise for normal TV viewing is barely noticeable except for the rare occasions where there is panning on light background in normal TV (noticed this more when wife is watching HGTV and they pan around a freshly painted room that has a light color).

Can't see going down to a 60" once you've had the 65" in your living room. Sony seems to have the same issues with their 65" XBR set. Samsung's F8000 may or may not have the same issues - we'll see - but will also cost a premium over what we paid for the UN65ES8000 - likely $750-1000 more from what I've seen posted here...

Guess I have another 30 days to see...I'll post comparison pictures when I have a chance of #3 versus #4 to see if there really are visible banding differences between sets.

Cheers.
post #12010 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkcohen View Post

Traded up from my 55 to a 60 today. The 60 has an HS01 panel. It's beautiful.

what is the difference in panels hs01 & 55" tso1?
is there a difference in PQ?
thx
post #12011 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by OugaBooga View Post

would it be too much to ask you to make a standard settings calibration, also do you game on ur set console/PC? i would really like to see a "entertainment" settings calibration if at all possible........thx
Hey I will try and do standard mode once I am happy that I have movie mode perfect. If I am understanding prsut and turboman correctly, I have good graphs but I got to them in an imperfect way and if I calibrate a different way then I might get a better result (sorry so vague, i am trying to understand their advice myself).

As far as xbox goes, I dont see the need since once you have your display calibrated you are good to go. Also, I dont have a way to get the test patterns onto the tv from my xbox.
post #12012 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

Your new calibration readings are insanely spot on! I'll have to mess with mine a little bit over the weekend. I plan on lowering my backlight and upping the contrast. Where did you end up setting your luminance level at? I think I'm going to use 35ftL when I bring my backlight down.
I did 40 but I'm thinking of trying again at 35. 40 is pretty bright, but it just feels a little wrong setting backlight at like 7 so that you can get 35ftl with >90 contrast.
post #12013 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

I did 40 but I'm thinking of trying again at 35. 40 is pretty bright, but it just feels a little wrong setting backlight at like 7 so that you can get 35ftl with >90 contrast.
yup i totally agree, nice colors but a little on the bright side. keep at it man other than blacks being washed out, im impressed
post #12014 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by supernet9 View Post

Here is the pic.. What do you think?


How can I tell what panel I have?
that is definitely clouding. are you using update 1046.2? and are you still on factory settings?
post #12015 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

Here is the result:
1000 separate
turboman123 separate
anthony5362 same
spacerpower separate
opsguy separate
bladerunner same
nick-t separate
marcojames separate
mavinwow same
arenaman separate
derekgosselin same
thebignewt separate
sharkcohen same
mickjcat same
garnoch same
quicknik same
postroad same
fleetski same
gamermwm same
7011jrs same
sympathetic separate

If I have made no mistakes, then it is 12 for keeping the same thread, against 9 for a separate thread. Of course, anyone can start a thread and these things do not depend on a vote. However, for the sake of having a lively community with members contributing, some co-ordination is helpful. In this case it means it would be best to keep calibrated settings discussions in this thread.
Thanks for all contributors.

At first blush I thought it was unfortunate that the team couldn't reach a quorum that supported a new thread, but based on all the recent posts and today's discussion perhaps this is exactly the medicine this thread needed. Jestered and 10k, thanks for sharing. Turboman123, thanks for educating.
Edited by marcojames - 2/7/13 at 7:56pm
post #12016 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by OugaBooga View Post

what is the difference in panels hs01 & 55" tso1?
is there a difference in PQ?
thx

As far as I can tell, they are comparable in picture quality. I was pleased with the TS01, and am very happy with the HS01 in my 60".
post #12017 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

I did 40 but I'm thinking of trying again at 35. 40 is pretty bright, but it just feels a little wrong setting backlight at like 7 so that you can get 35ftl with >90 contrast.

I redid mine tonight with the backlight at 10. Setting the luminance at 35ftL put my contrast at 85 on the TV. I haven't been able to watch it enough since I finished to make any comments on it.

You need to PM your trick for getting the color space in the CIE so spot on like you have. For whatever reason I haven't found the formula for that and it takes me a while to get the primary and secondary colors set correctly in the color space. Even then, I get them close, but not like you have it with yours. For whatever reason I'm having a real hard time with blue tonight. It's still not where I want it, but I'm gonna have to wait until tomorrow to get back to it.

Also, I noticed that you have a lot of 10P white balance adjustments in your settings. I'm wondering if that might hint at what your gamma problem is. Every time I've done my calibration, just setting the basic white balance settings gets me nearly perfectly set. I only have to adjust one or two things at the very low end in the 10P settings. For example, this last one I did tonight, all I had to change in the 10P settings was in interval 1, blue had to go up +1 and that was it. Nothing else was changed. I'm just wondering if you're not setting your regular white balance correctly, which is forcing you to make all those adjustments in the 10P white balance and possible throwing off your gamma. That may not have anything at all to do with the problem, but it did pop in my head when I realized all the 10P white balance adjustments you have.
post #12018 of 15499
I am being offered a pretty good price on the UN46ES8000. Are there any issues on the 46" like the others have with banding?

Also has anyone used the 46" or 55" as a monitor? I am thinking about using this TV mainly for my 3D-PC gaming rig.
post #12019 of 15499
Yes. Newest firmware. Best buy Calibrated the tv 5 months ago.

Can I fix it or should exchange it?
post #12020 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

I redid mine tonight with the backlight at 10. Setting the luminance at 35ftL put my contrast at 85 on the TV. I haven't been able to watch it enough since I finished to make any comments on it.

You need to PM your trick for getting the color space in the CIE so spot on like you have. For whatever reason I haven't found the formula for that and it takes me a while to get the primary and secondary colors set correctly in the color space. Even then, I get them close, but not like you have it with yours. For whatever reason I'm having a real hard time with blue tonight. It's still not where I want it, but I'm gonna have to wait until tomorrow to get back to it.

Also, I noticed that you have a lot of 10P white balance adjustments in your settings. I'm wondering if that might hint at what your gamma problem is. Every time I've done my calibration, just setting the basic white balance settings gets me nearly perfectly set. I only have to adjust one or two things at the very low end in the 10P settings. For example, this last one I did tonight, all I had to change in the 10P settings was in interval 1, blue had to go up +1 and that was it. Nothing else was changed. I'm just wondering if you're not setting your regular white balance correctly, which is forcing you to make all those adjustments in the 10P white balance and possible throwing off your gamma. That may not have anything at all to do with the problem, but it did pop in my head when I realized all the 10P white balance adjustments you have.

this is Dave999 answer to my question, how to work with HCFR and es series CMS:
...
For the primaries and secondaries... while taking continuous readings you can adjust the R,G, or B for each color and watch what it does to your x, y, and Y values. I presume you know what the Rec709 targets are for those values.

But basically, for the red primary:
-- changing R will adjust luminance (Y)
-- for the xy coordinate... technically, changing G & B up and down together evenly will adjust saturation (distace from d650), and changing the ratio of G to B (i.e., moving G and B in opposite directions) will adjust the hue (angle to d650). but instead of looking at it that way and getting bogged down in those terms, just look at the CIE chart: increasing R,G, or B will pull the xy coordinate toward that color, while decreasing R,G, or B will move the xy coordinate away from that color. it's just like pulling on a string.

The other colors work the same way.

Hope this helps.
...

Jestered, changes in 10p : if for all point you have green level at 0, and red , blue with +/- 1, you are not affecting gamma.
If you have white balance at spot after 2pt, then is no need to do 10pt. But once you need alter gamma, you can do it by setting gamma at picture options or by altering green values (and the setting grayscale using 10pt too) at 10pt.
Calibrating colors are tricky using HCFR, I know. If you have perfect x/y for given color, also you must be sure you have luminance at spot too.For primaries, luminance (and you cannot see luminance in CIE, because it is third dimension) is more important as saturation.
So for example for Green, set blue and red = change in saturation (move together) or hue(move opposite), and you still should keep eye on luminance
Edited by prsut - 2/7/13 at 11:46pm
post #12021 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by supernet9 View Post

WIll it really? Can I take a picture and post it?

When the techs came out, they unscrewed it and same thing.

Personally, I would not count on clouding getting better over time. My set has had clouding since day 1 when I got my set last year, and it still has the same amount of clouding. Don't keep a set hoping clouding will go away because in my experience there's a good chance it will persist. If the clouding bothers you, reconsider the tv.
post #12022 of 15499
Guys, quick question. Has anyone conducted a detailed, semi-scientific comparison between the ES8000 series and the base model 70" Sharp series ? I am thinking about a panel for another room, here in Australia you can get a non3D 70" Sharp backlit panel for a bit less than the 60" ES8000. It's for a second media room I'm building. Anyone have any info for me r.e. how well the Sharp picture quality holds up ? I'm only interested in PQ, don't give a shite about 3D (or lack thereof), smart TV features etc.

1000
post #12023 of 15499
well i got the run around from Samsung all day today, and i finally got some one who knew what they were talking about and some of the problems. I knew here in AUS we have a 14 days DOA policy, And it has to be returned to the retailer. So i thought id take a short cut and go straight to samsung for a panel replacement but since i have claimed with in 14 day i have to go threw work, OK fine i contact the REP here in AU, I have met HER a few times, She said to me me joe you can do what ever you want refund or exchange for same model or get a 55es8000 wich is instock plus cash back or return my es658000 and get a es608000 plus cash back, She asked me if i go for the es608000 to TXT her and give her the purchase order number and she will make it a priority

iam thinking right now i play the panel lottery because this is the 1st tv i have had any problems with from Samsung in 5 yrs

I can live with a 55 again because i went from 55 to 65, Will take abit of adjustment

What would you guys do ?

I know it rests on my shoulders but just looking for some opinions

Thanks
post #12024 of 15499
Joe, if it helps you, I just went through the same thing. Bought a 65", wonderful panel but horrible vertical banding. So I went hunting for stores that had the 65" on display. Found only one out of about ten stores that actually had one displayed (speaks volumes) and it had banding. Read all the comments from the forum here, nobody has had a 65" without vertical banding... Sometimes mild, sometimes very noticeable but always present in seem way shape or form.

I opted for a 60". No banding at all in normal viewing and exceptionally good PQ, I'm very happy with it. Within a week I was used to the 5" drop in size. What's your viewing distance ?

1000
post #12025 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by prsut View Post

this is Dave999 answer to my question, how to work with HCFR and es series CMS:
...
For the primaries and secondaries... while taking continuous readings you can adjust the R,G, or B for each color and watch what it does to your x, y, and Y values. I presume you know what the Rec709 targets are for those values.

But basically, for the red primary:
-- changing R will adjust luminance (Y)
-- for the xy coordinate... technically, changing G & B up and down together evenly will adjust saturation (distace from d650), and changing the ratio of G to B (i.e., moving G and B in opposite directions) will adjust the hue (angle to d650). but instead of looking at it that way and getting bogged down in those terms, just look at the CIE chart: increasing R,G, or B will pull the xy coordinate toward that color, while decreasing R,G, or B will move the xy coordinate away from that color. it's just like pulling on a string.

The other colors work the same way.

Hope this helps.

That's exactly what I needed to know! I will mess with getting color space readings set up correctly after work today. Thanks!!!
post #12026 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by supernet9 View Post

Yes. Newest firmware. Best buy Calibrated the tv 5 months ago.

Can I fix it or should exchange it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by supernet9 View Post

Yes. Newest firmware. Best buy Calibrated the tv 5 months ago.

Can I fix it or should exchange it?
what is your backlight set at? looks high
post #12027 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000 View Post

Joe, if it helps you, I just went through the same thing. Bought a 65", wonderful panel but horrible vertical banding. So I went hunting for stores that had the 65" on display. Found only one out of about ten stores that actually had one displayed (speaks volumes) and it had banding. Read all the comments from the forum here, nobody has had a 65" without vertical banding... Sometimes mild, sometimes very noticeable but always present in seem way shape or form.

I opted for a 60". No banding at all in normal viewing and exceptionally good PQ, I'm very happy with it. Within a week I was used to the 5" drop in size. What's your viewing distance ?

1000

+1

Joe, if your Rep can get you a 60es8000, you will be way more happy with it than either the 55es8000 or 60es6500. I had to exchange numerous sets, was without a primary tv for stretches at a time and ultimately patience and persistence paid off as I finally got a set I was happy with after a 4 month exchange merry go round.

As many of the thread contributors will tell you, the 60ES8000 is really the best Samsung tv out there outside of the 75es9000.
post #12028 of 15499
I got my es8000 55". To my eye I noticed horizontal banding straight away. Otherwise the set is perfect as silly as that sounds. Zero flashlighting, clouding or vertical banding. As for the horizontal bands I am noticing them all the time during regular viewing, especially at night. I've tried to take photos of it but can't take one that does it any justice. They basically run from top to bottom horizontally in varying widths. Wanted to get your guys opinion on whether this is pretty standard or whether I should try and get a replacement and try again. My retailer has basically told me I'm on my own on this set which I though was fair enough after returning two HX850s before swapping to this set. So anything I do from here will have to be with Samsung Australia.
post #12029 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek Gosselin View Post


what is your backlight set at? looks high

I would have to double check, but I don't think it is high....

Would that fix it?
post #12030 of 15499
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZiggyGod View Post

I am being offered a pretty good price on the UN46ES8000. Are there any issues on the 46" like the others have with banding?

Also has anyone used the 46" or 55" as a monitor? I am thinking about using this TV mainly for my 3D-PC gaming rig.

I have the 55 & it's used Mainly for gaming either Mostly PC or xbox & some ps3.
i can't say anything bout the 46 since i never saw 1 or used 1 but there was a review of it stating it's excellent for gaming due to low input lag & PQ.
i wonder if there's a difference between the 46 & 55 in gaming, are the panels the same?
anyhow,Overall i am happy with my set so far, i really love using the natural mode for racing games.
personally i wouldn't use anything larger then 55 for gaming, but if ur into movies, go as big as you can afford.
i am considering a projector after 1 more hdtv, prolly back to plasma f8500/g8500.
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