Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 402

Originally Posted by supernet9 

I would have to double check, but I don't think it is high....

Would that fix it?

Originally Posted by lbass 

I got my es8000 55". To my eye I noticed horizontal banding straight away. Otherwise the set is perfect as silly as that sounds. Zero flashlighting, clouding or vertical banding. As for the horizontal bands I am noticing them all the time during regular viewing, especially at night. I've tried to take photos of it but can't take one that does it any justice. They basically run from top to bottom horizontally in varying widths. Wanted to get your guys opinion on whether this is pretty standard or whether I should try and get a replacement and try again. My retailer has basically told me I'm on my own on this set which I though was fair enough after returning two HX850s before swapping to this set. So anything I do from here will have to be with Samsung Australia.

Originally Posted by Jestered 

That's exactly what I needed to know! I will mess with getting color space readings set up correctly after work today. Thanks!!!

Originally Posted by cmay91472 

That might actually be one of the worst banding cases I've seen yet on these Samsungs. Horizontal banding from top to bottom with a nice wide vertical band smack dab in the middle. That one needs to go back ASAP.

Originally Posted by 10k 

i basically used prsut's method, just looking at the CIE field and adjusting the color controls to "drag" the arrow into the center. This grayscale stuff is driving me crazy trying to reach perfection.

Good luck!

Originally Posted by 10k 

i basically used prsut's method, just looking at the CIE field and adjusting the color controls to "drag" the arrow into the center. This grayscale stuff is driving me crazy trying to reach perfection.

Good luck!

Originally Posted by canuck09 

I've actually got a 60ES7500 but that thread is dead and these TV's are close so I thought I'd try asking this here...

I've only had my TV for 2 weeks and I was away for work 1 of those weeks so I haven't watched it a ton or dialed in many of the settings yet. I notice something strange that I never saw on my A750 that seems to happen when watching commercials mostly. Certain text/logos/textures seem to dance or vibrate on the screen, I'm not sure how to describe it beyond that.

There's a Domino's commercial where a guy is folding pizza boxes really fast. The Domino's text on each pizza box in the stacks and stacks of boxes around him all shift up and down constantly, even when he's standing still talking and the camera angle isn't moving.

There was a commercial for some furniture company and the curtains of the display house looked like they had waves moving through them.

There's a series of commercials that run with black bars across the top/bottom and sides of the screen and it looks as though the frame in the middle with the image is shaking up and down. At first I thought my TV was shaking it was so obvious.

There's also others that have plain white text on dark backgrounds and it looks like the text is wiggling.

Is all of this a MotionPlus setting? Is it a calibration issue? Or does it sound like a defective TV? Any help or suggestions on how to get rid of this is appreciated.

Originally Posted by sony1717 

lbass - that banding is unacceptable. I would return it ASAP.

I know there is another forum dedicated, but any thoughts from the banding plagued owners here about the 65" F8000 and whether or not it will be similarly plagued? Is it in fact the exact same panel or new?

Originally Posted by canuck09 

I've actually got a 60ES7500 but that thread is dead and these TV's are close so I thought I'd try asking this here...

I've only had my TV for 2 weeks and I was away for work 1 of those weeks so I haven't watched it a ton or dialed in many of the settings yet. I notice something strange that I never saw on my A750 that seems to happen when watching commercials mostly. Certain text/logos/textures seem to dance or vibrate on the screen, I'm not sure how to describe it beyond that.

There's a Domino's commercial where a guy is folding pizza boxes really fast. The Domino's text on each pizza box in the stacks and stacks of boxes around him all shift up and down constantly, even when he's standing still talking and the camera angle isn't moving.

There was a commercial for some furniture company and the curtains of the display house looked like they had waves moving through them.

There's a series of commercials that run with black bars across the top/bottom and sides of the screen and it looks as though the frame in the middle with the image is shaking up and down. At first I thought my TV was shaking it was so obvious.

There's also others that have plain white text on dark backgrounds and it looks like the text is wiggling.

Is all of this a MotionPlus setting? Is it a calibration issue? Or does it sound like a defective TV? Any help or suggestions on how to get rid of this is appreciated.

Originally Posted by prsut 

:10k

what patterns you use for 2pt white balance ???

Your 2pt, 10pt is :

White Balance
Offsets 33 31 27
Gains 29 31 13

10p White Balance
Interval, r, g, b
1 -4, -3, 0
2 0, 0, 0
3 1, 2, 2
4 2, 2, 2
5 3, ,3 2
6 2, 4, 2
7 3, 4, -1
8 -1, 6, 7
9 1, 0, 0
10 -4, 0, 2

If using 30-80%, you cannot have 8pt -1,6,7. If using 20-90% patterns, then 2 and 9pt seens to be OK, but look on blue at 7-8-9. Something is wrong.
If you have green 31 in RGB offset/gain i believe your picture is on bright side. Did you check color clipping pattern ?
The objective is to set black as low as possible and white as high as no color clips.
My tips:
- I believe you are using field patterns
- eco sensor off
-run 10% white and look if you have banding. Move meter to most average position (not on dark line)
- move meter up a bit verticaly as blue color menu can affect measuring
- wait until play info disapears from screen when measuring
- reset 2pt, 10pt
- using colr plipping and black clipping patterns set brightness and contrast. Do i iterative.
- set grayscale using 2pt. Do not move green. Once you move green, you have to set brightness and contrast again. Note, you cannot alter gamma with 2pt. First set gains, then offsets. If changed one end, you have to check other side.
-If 2pt is OK, again check brightnes/contrast
- 10pt : go from 10%. At this small level of luminance each small change in 1. causes huge change in measurement. If you move picture control, wait a bit as TV accepts new settings bit later.
- go 20%. If you change some value, go back to10% and check
- this way go up.
- do changes in small steps.

Also yo may want to read this article. Must register, but then read DrMark's post. It is outstandig...

Originally Posted by 10k 

updated 2/7/13
This post contains my efforts at calibrating my TS01 panel 55" ES8000 with an Xrite Colormunki Display

Tools used:
IForked version of HCFR: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1380
Kal's guide to HCFR: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
AVS 709 Calibration mp4's: http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration

I played the calibration mp4 files on my tv through DLNA sharing from PC. This should have the benefit of removing any interference/processing from other devices such as bd player or htpc.

Here's my results file you can load into HCFR gamma calibrated.zip 7k .zip file

Grayscale results


Colorscale results


Luminance

Gamma

RGB Levels

Color Temperature

CIE



Here are the settings. I am still working on the colorspace settings as of 2/7 as I am having difficulty getting 75% saturation and 100% saturation to calibrate correctly at the same time without clipping.

Mode: Movie
Backlight 7
Contrast 98
Brightness 48
Sharp 0 (not based on meter, use your preference)
Color 50
TInt 50/50

Screen Adjust - Fit

Advanced Settings
Dynamic Contrast Off (impossible/frustrating to calibrate with this on. Maybe turn on if you like it)
Black Tone Off (same as above)
Flesh Tone 0
Color Space
Red 79 0 3
Green 3 50 2
Blue 0 7 50
Yellow 48 43 5
Cyan 3 46 56
Magenta 50 9 46

White Balance
Offsets 33 31 27
Gains 29 31 13

10p White Balance
Interval, r, g, b
1 -4, -3, 0
2 0, 0, 0
3 1, 2, 2
4 2, 2, 2
5 3, ,3 2
6 2, 4, 2
7 3, 4, -1
8 -1, 6, 7
9 1, 0, 0
10 -4, 0, 2

Gamma 0
Black Enhancer Off

Picture Options
Color Tone Warm2
Filters off
HDMI Black Level Normal (my htpc is configured for this)
Auto Motion plus Clear (personal preference)
LED Motion Plus Off

Originally Posted by marcojames 

For those interested....

This looks like not very much changed from one firmware to the next in terms of measurable static screens.

I do believe that the update has resulted in less flash lighting which leads me to speculate that the update is mostly in the MicroDimming and Dynamic actions of the set behind the scenes.

Originally Posted by turboman123 

hello 10k
Some comments on this. Your original calibration was better. Problems I see here is the following:
black level: your black level is a bit high, and therefore contrast ratio a bit low. Lower brightness setting one step at a time, until black level stops decreasing. Do not decrease brightness further, because that will crush blacks.
Contrary to prsut, I would not use clipping patterns for brightness and contrast settings and use visual observation, because it is very subjective. For brightness, see above. For contrast, you can max as long as there is no clipping (greyscale dE at 100% not too high).

10p white balance: corrections should be at most +-2. Also, do not use the 10p white balance to make large corrections to the gamma curve. I would not even make small corrections to the gamma curve, only correct greyscale.

custom color space: red 79, 0, 3. The base setting is 50, 0, 0. So it seems you make a large correction to red, probably with the aim to get the red dot aligned properly on the graph. But native red gamut of the panel is limited. You might not get a perfect dot on the graph by increasing red. If you do that, you increase red luminance, and dE error increases. So in short: make your custom color space corrections to get a minimum dE, independent of where the dot is on the graph.
Before , I made the recommendation to calibrate custom color space at 100% saturation, 75% luminance. Which is better than 100% luminance. The problem is that with 100% saturation, you are close to clipping. If the native gamut is red undersaturated, you can never achieve perfect 100% saturation, even if you increase red value. Red is clipping. And if you only look at the saturation triangle, you do not notice that you are making a mistake by increasing red.
Better would be to use 75% saturation, but I am not sure if HCFR has that capability. Chromapure and Calman have. This is actually what I prefer: custom color calibration at 75%luminance, 75% saturation. Because it is closer to real content, and avoids the clipping problems.

What I would suggest is to go back to your original settings, and see if gamma gets better when you play the patterns through DNLA or from USB thumb drive.

I know that buying the Colormunki and using HCFR is lowest cost, but HCFR is tricky and more difficult.
Which HCFR are you using? The standard one? Have a look here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1380#post_22940353
This is a variation of HCFR where knowledgable guys like zoyd developed it further, and the last post showed that they should be able to do 75%saturation/75%luminance.
I have not looked at this HCFR version yet, and it was 2 years ago since I used the standard HCFR, but have a look at this special version and see what it can do for you.

Originally Posted by prsut 

My tips:
- I believe you are using field patterns
- eco sensor off
-run 10% white and look if you have banding. Move meter to most average position (not on dark line)
- move meter up a bit verticaly as blue color menu can affect measuring
- wait until play info disapears from screen when measuring
- reset 2pt, 10pt
- using colr plipping and black clipping patterns set brightness and contrast. Do i iterative.
- set grayscale using 2pt. Do not move green. Once you move green, you have to set brightness and contrast again. Note, you cannot alter gamma with 2pt. First set gains, then offsets. If changed one end, you have to check other side.
-If 2pt is OK, again check brightnes/contrast
- 10pt : go from 10%. At this small level of luminance each small change in 1. causes huge change in measurement. If you move picture control, wait a bit as TV accepts new settings bit later.
- go 20%. If you change some value, go back to10% and check
- this way go up.
- do changes in small steps.

Also yo may want to read this article. Must register, but then read DrMark's post. It is outstandig...

Originally Posted by turboman123 

hello Marco
That is interesting. I know that others have reported seeing an improvement, but I was always wondering.

Question: can you switch back and forward between different firmwares? I thought this is not possible.
If you can switch backward and forward, it would be interesting to see calibration results with calibrated setting, with the same settings for both firmwares. Is that possible to do?

Originally Posted by 10k 

Jestered, how are your meter adventures going?

Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 

OMG...12,000 plus posts! Thank you all. What an amazing community for this amazing television.

Originally Posted by thebignewt 

So why do you think that some of your 10p White balance numbers are so far from Zero? Are you happy with your picture now?

Originally Posted by sharkcohen 

Make sure Film Mode is set to Auto 1, and try setting AMP to Clear.

Originally Posted by OugaBooga 

I am not sure if what u mention is what i experience when in PC mode, 1 thing that REALLY pisses me off is the AMP "auto motion plus", i originally thought the smooth would be OK but NO SIR _E, that AMP for me NO matter what content is ALWAAYS OFF.when using a PC that AMP causes what i call "nervous breakdown", **** is moving around when highlighted or mouse over or near, mainly over dark stuff where it seems like it's worms.
Hope this helps, i turn all that stuff off when gaming, not sure how it is for TV/movies.
AMP/LMP i leave ALWAYS OFF, maybe i might try LMP in some racing games, i dunno yet.
Hope this helps.
CYA:)