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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 413

post #12361 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

Best community on the Forum period.

Thats cause we a spezual bunch with ES8000's.....kinda like owning the knight rider car "kit" in the 80's tongue.gif
post #12362 of 16126
Except Kit had useful features.. smile.gif
post #12363 of 16126
You go OugaBooga!
post #12364 of 16126
Ah, I'm a g.i.joe kid of the 60's & 70's....but I hear ya!
post #12365 of 16126
Day 3 and I still have not found anything to complain about with the TV. I even get a pretty nice picture with non HD broadcasts, but I have to give some credit to my AVR for that.

Right now I am watching the Golf Channel, looking for any banding or anything weird. Nothing. All good.

Blu-Rays are just plain fantastic. I watched Skyfall last night. The wrinkles on Dame Judi Dench's face look almost reptilian. LOL. Amazing detail.

And the "touch" remote is STILL junk. Hate it. Its going in the drawer with the paperwork.
post #12366 of 16126
The touch remote is awful, throw it out. It's a shame how bad it is, considering how nice the "tilt" remote the LG TV's have is.
post #12367 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

Your contrast ratio is out of this world, I do have a question though, what were the lighting conditions in the room when you were measuring? In my current settings we have similar Y output at 100% and 10%, but you have half the Y at 0% (black) that I do, which leaves me with "only" 1900:1 contrast instead of your result. I ran a few quick tests before running out the door to work today and with the sun shining into my livingroom onto the TV, my same settings only measured around 950:1 contrast, so I guess ambient light does have an impact. Maybe it is reflecting through the glass panel on the screen since I cant see any space between the meter and the screen.

I've calibrated mine in the middle of the day with all the outside light from all the windows coming in, and at night with just normal lighting and don't remember any real difference in contrast ration. I'm gonna do a few things here shortly and will do some lighting tests and see for sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by prsut View Post

Jestered, try to read my post here. Try it on your red. Due this bug, my tv is in certified service center under warranty repair...

Thanks! I did read that and am going to test with the meter to see if my red is exhibiting the same behavior. Will let you know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin Sullins View Post

Ok, I won't do factory reset.

Just because you just got the set does not mean you should not do a factory reset. Apparently that's needed to really take advantage of the updated PQ settings in the firmware. It's been discussed a lot and no one really knows why, but I have a feeling they're changing the Service Menu default settings with the firmware update. The problem is that those default Service Menu settings don't get set (or reset) on the TV until you do a factory reset. So if you don't do one, even though you just got the TV, you probably won't get the new defaults loaded to your TV.

Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

hello Jestered,
Changing a setting in 10p only causes a large jump at low light input or IRE. At larger IRE, the "jumps" are quite small. Just calibrate for lowest dE. You should only need small corrections in 10p: +-1 or +-2 at most. But only change red and blue, and leave green alone, otherwise gamma changes too much.

About your red thing, that is puzzling. Read the post from prsut. There have been reports before on this thread that in order to activate Custom, you have to go directly from Auto to Custom, and NOT Auto->Native->Custom. Try that.

That's good to know! I'm going to calibrate again here in a second and will mess more with the 10P stuff that needs it. I also realized that since I used the "Color" setting to set Red Y level, I should have used the "Tint" setting to set the x and y levels for Cyan. I'm pretty sure if you use one of those you have to use the other to match. Hopefully that makes sense. Anyway, at first I'm going to try again without any "Color" or "Tint". If I have a problem with Red in the CMS, I'm going to set Red and Cyan using "Tint" and "Color" and see how it goes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aaedwards View Post

Thanks Jestered that would be excellent if you can. Also can you tell me what type your tv is in the service menu because mine is showing 40A2UF1E which is different to my last set which was 40A2UFOE regards Anthony

Which model TV do you have? I don't think there was ever a 40" ES8000, so that doesn't make sense. The ES8000 should be 46" (46A2UFOE), 55" (55A2UFOE), 60" (60A2UFOE) and 65" (65A2UFOE). If you don't have an ES8000 you should NOT use the following default ADC settings because they are probably not the right values for your TV. Here are the correct factory ADC values for the ES8000:

Page 1 for factory ADC for ES8000:



Page 2 for factory ADC for ES8000:

post #12368 of 16126
Are all the service menu settings stored on the mainboard
post #12369 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

I've calibrated mine in the middle of the day with all the outside light from all the windows coming in, and at night with just normal lighting and don't remember any real difference in contrast ration. I'm gonna do a few things here shortly and will do some lighting tests and see for sure.
Thanks! I did read that and am going to test with the meter to see if my red is exhibiting the same behavior. Will let you know.
Just because you just got the set does not mean you should not do a factory reset. Apparently that's needed to really take advantage of the updated PQ settings in the firmware. It's been discussed a lot and no one really knows why, but I have a feeling they're changing the Service Menu default settings with the firmware update. The problem is that those default Service Menu settings don't get set (or reset) on the TV until you do a factory reset. So if you don't do one, even though you just got the TV, you probably won't get the new defaults loaded to your TV.
That's good to know! I'm going to calibrate again here in a second and will mess more with the 10P stuff that needs it. I also realized that since I used the "Color" setting to set Red Y level, I should have used the "Tint" setting to set the x and y levels for Cyan. I'm pretty sure if you use one of those you have to use the other to match. Hopefully that makes sense. Anyway, at first I'm going to try again without any "Color" or "Tint". If I have a problem with Red in the CMS, I'm going to set Red and Cyan using "Tint" and "Color" and see how it goes.
Which model TV do you have? I don't think there was ever a 40" ES8000, so that doesn't make sense. The ES8000 should be 46" (46A2UFOE), 55" (55A2UFOE), 60" (60A2UFOE) and 65" (65A2UFOE). If you don't have an ES8000 you should NOT use the following default ADC settings because they are probably not the right values for your TV. Here are the correct factory ADC values for the ES8000:

Page 1 for factory ADC for ES8000:



Page 2 for factory ADC for ES8000:


Hi it is definitely a 40ES8000. but i forgot to tell you it is a european set. Cheers for the info i will give them ago. Thanks again Anthony
post #12370 of 16126
Thanks again Jestered. My set is definitely a 40ES8000 maybe because its a European set as im from the UK regards Again Anthony
post #12371 of 16126
I was thinking maybe we should only have all of the calibrated settings on the main "Master sheet" of the doc (and also on their respective size "sheet"), and have everyone else's settings on the individual size sheets; any objections? I didn't want to just do it and offend anyone by taking them off the main page of the doc. Please weigh in, especially if you already have settings posted on there, thanks.
post #12372 of 16126
Jestered,

I have been in the service menu to enable the day/night mode but, looking at what you posted may be able to get the range for blue/red to dial in the CMS perfectly.
post #12373 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZiggyGod View Post

Hi all, so I finally purchased a UN46ES8000. (I love the TV) I am mainly using the TV as my PC/Steam Big Picture monitor. But I have a problem when viewing 3D movies in Media Player Classic. This did not happen with my old Samsung PN51D8000. When I watch a movie in 3D and hit the 3D button to combine the images as one I get these weird long rectangle boxes on both sides of my screen. Anyone know how I can fix this?

Let me also note that the 3D is focused and looks fine while watching any movie. I know it is not a ghosting issue. It just those boxes make the image in those sections look darker or lighter compared to everything else.

Thanks all.


Quote:
Originally Posted by OugaBooga View Post

I can't comment on the movie 3d since i only have 1 & it never showed those rectangle sides.I can say that moving from my pn50c8000 for 3d is definitely better on this TV & also gaming is better, send me an invite on steam, same name as here "OugaBooga".I am sure u are loving your pc gaming on this es8000 smile.gif

I added ya OugaBooga my steam id is "ziggygod".

So does anyone know why this is happening to my TV only when I watch 3D movies off of my pc on Media Player Classic? Someone suggested it might of been the aspect ration but its not. I just checked and no its not an issue with the aspect ratio because the black bars don't exist when the file is on side by side mode before I hit the 3d button. I tried changing the aspect ratio through the tv when the 3d mode is on and the tv tells me I cant use that function while 3d is on. This happens with all my 3D movies that I have watched and saw fine on my old set.

Do any1 have any other ideas/suggestions?
post #12374 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

Just because you just got the set does not mean you should not do a factory reset. Apparently that's needed to really take advantage of the updated PQ settings in the firmware. It's been discussed a lot and no one really knows why, but I have a feeling they're changing the Service Menu default settings with the firmware update. The problem is that those default Service Menu settings don't get set (or reset) on the TV until you do a factory reset. So if you don't do one, even though you just got the TV, you probably won't get the new defaults loaded to your TV

Good point and It doesn't hurt to do this now and again just in case

But there have been updates that reset all your settings automatically regardless. And that is the only time I believe it's absolutely needed. In the case that something has been changed in the service menu etc. as you said I believe that's when they push out the updates that wipe your settings. Otherwise a factory reset is probably not really neccesary
post #12375 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by galonzo View Post

I was thinking maybe we should only have all of the calibrated settings on the main "Master sheet" of the doc (and also on their respective size "sheet"), and have everyone else's settings on the individual size sheets; any objections? I didn't want to just do it and offend anyone by taking them off the main page of the doc. Please weigh in, especially if you already have settings posted on there, thanks.

I just added a "Calibrated" sheet after the "Master"sheet
post #12376 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickS View Post

Jestered,

I have been in the service menu to enable the day/night mode but, looking at what you posted may be able to get the range for blue/red to dial in the CMS perfectly.

I won't say I haven't already thought about that. I just really don't want people going in there messing with stuff unless they're completely comfortable with what they're doing. Not just that, but be prepared to ruin your PQ if you mess with something and can't get it back. A reset isn't going to do anything to fix what someone screws up in the Service Menu. There are some of us I think that could get in there and do some tweaking to fix some of these things like you mentioned, but I surely don't want to put that info out there for just anyone to try. That's why I won't tell anyone how to get in there to begin with.

But yeah, I've definitely thought about that already...
post #12377 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

I won't say I haven't already thought about that. I just really don't want people going in there messing with stuff unless they're completely comfortable with what they're doing. Not just that, but be prepared to ruin your PQ if you mess with something and can't get it back. A reset isn't going to do anything to fix what someone screws up in the Service Menu. There are some of us I think that could get in there and do some tweaking to fix some of these things like you mentioned, but I surely don't want to put that info out there for just anyone to try. That's why I won't tell anyone how to get in there to begin with.

But yeah, I've definitely thought about that already...
where are the settings stored?? On the main board? I had a new board put it. I wonder if that reset everything. I dont dare go in there again
post #12378 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by rckrz6 View Post

where are the settings stored?? On the main board? I had a new board put it. I wonder if that reset everything. I dont dare go in there again

They are stored on the main board. If you had the main board replaced, then your Service Menu data is untouched and factory.
post #12379 of 16126
Ok. I just finished my final calibration for awhile. I've put so much time into this that I need a break and it's no longer "fun"! Luckily I got my best results on this one and the TV looks f'ing great! You can find my meter readings and settings in my signature. I'd love to hear what you think about it. The only thing I'm not certain about is the gamma readings, but apparently those are good for the new gamma that everyone is talking about.

I tried not to use the "Color" and "Tint" settings, but I simply cannot get the Red and Magenta colors set in the CMS without having red set to 100 in both. I went ahead with it anyway, but there was obvious red push in my picture when I was done, so I did it all over again using the "Color" and "Tint" settings to set red luminance, which allows me to adjust the CMS settings much easier and more accurate. The TV looks freaking great right now! Very black blacks, great color and good contrast ratio.

I also upgraded with the new firmware and performed a full reset before calibration. I haven't updated my settings on the shared spreadsheet yet, but will do that later. I would actually like to watch this dang TV now.
Edited by Jestered - 2/15/13 at 8:46pm
post #12380 of 16126
Following is my latest Movie and Standard calibration with latest firmware 1010 (Asian model), accurate i1Display3PRO meter and Oppo BDP-103 bluray player in HDMI 4:2:2 mode.
Update February 21

Movie mode:
Target is to reduce flashlighting, clouding and crushed blacks. For this I use max contrast and white balance gain without clipping which gives max contrast ratio. For reduced crushed blacks I use BT1886 gamma which makes dark scenes brighter.
For greyscale and gamma, see following attachment
CalibrationSummaryDetailed.pdf 1310k .pdf file
For greyscale and gamma it is quite easy to achieve good results. Custom color is a bit more difficult. Here is the result taking all saturations and luminances into account, with priority for 75% and 100% luminance and saturation.

Picture results for 75% luminance:


GCD 100% CIE.jpg 21k .jpg file
GCD 100% dE.jpg 19k .jpg file
GCD 50% CIE.jpg 21k .jpg file
GCD 50% dE.jpg 21k .jpg file
GCD 25% CIE.jpg 21k .jpg file
GCD 25% dE.jpg 25k .jpg file

Settings:
Backlight 5
Contrast 100
Brighntess 45
Sharpness 20
Custom
R 48, 3, 0
G 5, 46, 3
B 0, 4, 44
Y 51, 48, 3
Cy 3, 49, 52
M 43, 6 46
White offset 25, 25, 22
White Gain 38, 50, 26
10p level1 6, 6, 6
10p level2 3, 3, 3
10p level3 1, 1, 0
10p level4 1, 0, -1
10p level5 1, 0, -2
10p level 6 0, 0, -2
10p level7 0, 0, -1
10p level8 0, 0, -1
10p level9 0, -1, -1
10p level10 1, 0, -1
Gamma 0
Warm 2
All special modes off
Motion plus Standard (tested this with moving bar test pattern from GCD disk, and I liked Standard better than Clear).

Standard Mode
In standard mode, I reduced backlight to 2 with Contrast at 80. Even then, light output was larger than in Movie mode with backlight 5.
In order to avoid clipping and still have accurate greyscale, it was important to reduce contrast to 80, increase red and green white balance gain, and reduce blue white balance gain.
With these settings, greyscale is almost as good as in Movie mode. Without 10p white balance, it was not possible to make corrections for BT1886 gamma, and gamma is basically flat.
Custom color calibration was done at 75%saturation/75%amplitude, and 100%saturation/75%amplitude and then making an average of both settings. Here is the result for 75%amplitude:



Settings:
Backlight 2
Contrast 80
Brighntess 45
Sharpness 20
Custom
R 32, 2, 0
G 14, 49, 0
B 0, 5, 45
Y 52, 47, 1
Cy 9, 48, 51
M 31, 4, 45
White offset 25, 25, 23
White Gain 38, 36, 0
Gamma 0
Warm 2
All special modes off
Motion plus Standard (tested this with moving bar test pattern from GCD disk, and I liked Standard better than Clear).

Conclusion:
The quality of greyscale and color is almost the same for Movie and Standard in calibrated condition.
Movie has the capability of reducing crushed blacks with a BT1886 gamma calibration, and avoids dimming.
Standard , with these settings, has dimming, which makes flashlighting and clouding less apparent in dark scenes, at the expense of crushed blacks.
Edited by turboman123 - 2/24/13 at 6:22pm
post #12381 of 16126
Do you guys WATCH your 8000's? Or just test them?

JUST KIDDING!!!!!!!!!
post #12382 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickS View Post

Jestered,

I have been in the service menu to enable the day/night mode but, looking at what you posted may be able to get the range for blue/red to dial in the CMS perfectly.

Hello, i would REALLY like to know HOW to enable the day/night mode, i really loved that feature on my c8000 plasma & would Love if i could use it on the es8000.
Beats me why they don't have that feature, i think it was dumb removing it. mad.gif
post #12383 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

Ok. I just finished my final calibration for awhile. I've put so much time into this that I need a break and it's no longer "fun"! Luckily I got my best results on this one and the TV looks f'ing great! You can find my meter readings and settings in my signature. I'd love to hear what you think about it. The only thing I'm not certain about is the gamma readings, but apparently those are good for the new gamma that everyone is talking about.

I tried not to use the "Color" and "Tint" settings, but I simply cannot get the Red and Magenta colors set in the CMS without having red set to 100 in both. I went ahead with it anyway, but there was obvious red push in my picture when I was done, so I did it all over again using the "Color" and "Tint" settings to set red luminance, which allows me to adjust the CMS settings much easier and more accurate. The TV looks freaking great right now! Very black blacks, great color and good contrast ratio.

I also upgraded with the new firmware and performed a full reset before calibration. I haven't updated my settings on the shared spreadsheet yet, but will do that later. I would actually like to watch this dang TV now.

Really stunning. Well done. I am playing around with settings and your latest look great.

And I'll reiterate my views on activity by a bunch of posters - thank you all so much for efforts and especially for sharing. This thread has become an incredible resource - it was already great and now has become indispensable. I am tremendously grateful for having access to this community.
post #12384 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

I've calibrated mine in the middle of the day with all the outside light from all the windows coming in, and at night with just normal lighting and don't remember any real difference in contrast ration. I'm gonna do a few things here shortly and will do some lighting tests and see for sure.
Thanks! I did read that and am going to test with the meter to see if my red is exhibiting the same behavior. Will let you know.
Just because you just got the set does not mean you should not do a factory reset. Apparently that's needed to really take advantage of the updated PQ settings in the firmware. It's been discussed a lot and no one really knows why, but I have a feeling they're changing the Service Menu default settings with the firmware update. The problem is that those default Service Menu settings don't get set (or reset) on the TV until you do a factory reset. So if you don't do one, even though you just got the TV, you probably won't get the new defaults loaded to your TV.
That's good to know! I'm going to calibrate again here in a second and will mess more with the 10P stuff that needs it. I also realized that since I used the "Color" setting to set Red Y level, I should have used the "Tint" setting to set the x and y levels for Cyan. I'm pretty sure if you use one of those you have to use the other to match. Hopefully that makes sense. Anyway, at first I'm going to try again without any "Color" or "Tint". If I have a problem with Red in the CMS, I'm going to set Red and Cyan using "Tint" and "Color" and see how it goes.
Which model TV do you have? I don't think there was ever a 40" ES8000, so that doesn't make sense. The ES8000 should be 46" (46A2UFOE), 55" (55A2UFOE), 60" (60A2UFOE) and 65" (65A2UFOE). If you don't have an ES8000 you should NOT use the following default ADC settings because they are probably not the right values for your TV. Here are the correct factory ADC values for the ES8000:

Page 1 for factory ADC for ES8000:



Page 2 for factory ADC for ES8000:

There's is a 40" model and I have one. Lovely little TV
post #12385 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

updated 2/14/13
This post contains my efforts at calibrating my TS01 panel 55" ES8000 with an Xrite Colormunki Display
Many thanks to Turboman, prsut, jestered, and all the awesome members of this forum for helping me figure out how to do this and offering their time and knowledge throughout

Tools used:
Forked version of HCFR: http://sourceforge.net/projects/zoyd000.u/files/downloads/ updated 2/10/13
HCFR forked version discussion thread: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1380
Kal's guide to HCFR: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
AVS 709 Calibration mp4's: http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration
GCD Calibration mp4's (for 75%sat/75% luminance file - "10% - 75 luminance:75 saturation.mp4"): http://www.avsforum.com/t/1406352/gcd-gamut-calibration-disk
GCD Targets spreadsheet for calculating xyY values for 75/75 pattern (attached to first post in above link): http://www.avsforum.com/attachments/66073
NVIDIA RGB FullRange Toggle - https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/523992/tip-for-nvidia-users-using-hdmi-and-getting-accurate-color-format/

Notes
The main use of my TV is connected to HTPC. I watch cable through Windows Media Center and an HDHomeRun Prime cablecard device. My HTPC has an NVIDIA card which has certain peculiarities with HDMI connections and 0-255 or 16-235 color range. By default NVIDIA over HDMI will only do 15-235 RGB range, which causes problems with video vs desktop applications. Using the toggle tool above you are able to force 0-255 mode for all video and apps. I have that toggle set to "full", and my TV and avr set to HDMI "normal" (0-255).

In NV control panel
Video->Adjust video color settings->advanced->Dynamic Range: "0-255"
Display->Adjust desktop color settings->Digital Color Format: RGB and content type: fullscreen videos

This should make it so games, web video, cable, and bluray all use the same color range. I did some spot check measures of my calibration against using the MP4's via usb stick and all looks well.

CAVEAT FOR NON HTPC USERS - Setting the NVIDIA full range toggle also impacts the gamma the videocard outputs. By default pre-toggle it will output 16-235 color and 2.2 gamma over HDMI. After the toggle it outputs 0-255 color and 2.5 gamma. I had to use the gamma boost function in the TV to offset this difference.

Here's my results file you can load into HCFR calibrated result 2 14 13.zip 2k .zip file
First Version: calibrated result.zip 2k .zip file
BT1886 Gamma settings 2 14 2013 (Click to show)
Backlight 11
Contrast 98
Brightness 43
Sharpness 10 (personal preference)
Color 50
Tint 50/50

ADVANCED SETTINGS
Dynamic Contrast Off (impossible/frustrating to calibrate)
Black Tone Off (same as above)
Flesh tone 0

Color Space
(Color, R, G, B)
Red 44 2 2
Green 9 51 6
Blue 3 6 50
Yellow 53 53 3
Cyan 6 53 53
Magenta 43 6 42

White Balance
Offsets 26 25 22
Gains 25 25 5

10p White Balance
(Level, R, G, B)
1, 2, 2, 2
2, 1, 1, 1
3, 0, 0, -1
4 1, 0, -1
5 1, 0, -1
6 1, -1, -3
7 0, 0, -3
8 0, 0, -2
9 0, 0, -1
10 0, 0, 0

Gamma +2 (see notes)
Motion Lighting Off (grayed out)
Black Enhancer Off

PICTURE OPTIONS
Color Tone Warm2
Digital/MPEG Noise FIlers Off
HDMI Black Level Normal (Based on your hadware, HTPC most likely normal, all other Low)
Film Mode Off (Grayed out)
Auto Motion Plus Clear (Personal Preference)
LED Motion Plus Off

SYSTEM
ECO Sensor ON
Min Backlight 7
V1 Settings (Click to show)
Calibration Charts (Click to show)
Grayscale results


Colorscale results


Luminance

Gamma

RGB Levels

Color Temperature

CIE

ANSI Contrast

Red Saturation

Green Saturation

Blue Saturation

Yellow Saturation

Cyan Saturation

Magenta Saturation

And the settings to get the above results: Settings (Click to show)
55" ES8000 - Panel TS01

Mode: Movie
Backlight 11
Contrast 98
Brightness 43
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 50/50

ADVANCED SETTINGS
Dynamic Contrast Off (Frustrating/impossible to calibrate with this on)
Black Tone Off (same as above)
Flesh Tone 0
Motion LIghting Off
Black Enhancer Off

Color Space: Custom
(Color, R, G, B)
Red 44 2 2
Green 9 51 6
Blue 3 6 50
Yellow 53 53 3
Cyan 6 53 53
Magenta 43 6 42

White Balance (r, g, b)
Offsets - 26 25 22
Gains - 25 25 5

10p White Balance (Level, R, G, B)
7 0 0 1
8 0 0 1
9 0 0 2
10 0 0 2

Gamma +2 (see comment regarding my HTPC setup above. If you are using a cable box and/or bluray player probably set this to 0)
Motion Lighting Off
Black Enhancer Off

PICTURE OPTIONS
Color Tone Warm2
Digital/MPEG Noise Filters Off
HDMI Black Level Normal (depends on your hardware)
Film Mode Off
Auto Motion Plus Clear (personal preference)
LED Motion Plus OFF

10K, what mode is the panel in for these settings, MOVIE or STANDARD ?

1000
post #12386 of 16126
OK my new 60" 7500 has been up for a week It has FW 1041. So far the only adjustment I have done is lower the "sharpness control" down to 20. I couldn't stand it at factory default. Should I go ahead and do the FW update to 1047 now and what should notice between that and 1041. The only complaint I have right now is a occasional studder in motion. I plan on controlling this via the x-link port on the rear from my Crestron system. Is anyone here using rs-232 for control?

I have a question about the camera on this. Obviously I have this set connected to the internet and am wondering, is there a chance that a thief could hack into this and use it to see if someone is home? The fact that there is a camera on this gives me the creeps.
post #12387 of 16126
I have tried many settings from everyone in the forum and want to thank all of you because it takes time to do this. I read the forum every day and found that I just keep going back to Nitra's settings when trying others. 10K's settings are very close to Nitra's standard settings. Thanks again.smile.gif Nitra hasn't been around for sometime now.
post #12388 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by stefuel View Post

OK my new 60" 7500 has been up for a week It has FW 1041. So far the only adjustment I have done is lower the "sharpness control" down to 20. I couldn't stand it at factory default. Should I go ahead and do the FW update to 1047 now and what should notice between that and 1041. The only complaint I have right now is a occasional studder in motion. I plan on controlling this via the x-link port on the rear from my Crestron system. Is anyone here using rs-232 for control?

I have a question about the camera on this. Obviously I have this set connected to the internet and am wondering, is there a chance that a thief could hack into this and use it to see if someone is home? The fact that there is a camera on this gives me the creeps.

Put some duct tape over it so the hacker doesn't catch you jack'n wink.gif ,that would be creepy eek.gif
I'am cover N all bases cool.gif
Edited by OugaBooga - 2/16/13 at 4:56am
post #12389 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000 View Post

10K, what mode is the panel in for these settings, MOVIE or STANDARD ?

1000
movie mode
post #12390 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

Ok. I just finished my final calibration for awhile. I've put so much time into this that I need a break and it's no longer "fun"! Luckily I got my best results on this one and the TV looks f'ing great! You can find my meter readings and settings in my signature. I'd love to hear what you think about it. The only thing I'm not certain about is the gamma readings, but apparently those are good for the new gamma that everyone is talking about.

I tried not to use the "Color" and "Tint" settings, but I simply cannot get the Red and Magenta colors set in the CMS without having red set to 100 in both. I went ahead with it anyway, but there was obvious red push in my picture when I was done, so I did it all over again using the "Color" and "Tint" settings to set red luminance, which allows me to adjust the CMS settings much easier and more accurate. The TV looks freaking great right now! Very black blacks, great color and good contrast ratio.

I also upgraded with the new firmware and performed a full reset before calibration. I haven't updated my settings on the shared spreadsheet yet, but will do that later. I would actually like to watch this dang TV now.
awesome result man, nice work. I'm wondering about using the color and tint controls to get my blue push tamed. I am having to make the same compromises turboman illustrated between various luminance and saturation readings.

Now what are you going to watch? cool.gif
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