Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 417

Originally Posted by cmay91472 

Sort of off topic.... but here is an article and internal document of Best Buys new and permanent price matching policy. Of interesting note for TV buyers, is that returns exchanges for non silver reward zone members has been decreased from 30 days to just 15. 60 days remains in tact for SRZ members. Also in the article is the list of approved online websites that they will match.

http://consumerist.com/2013/02/15/best-buy-confirms-price-matching-policy-change-with-low-price-guarantee/

Originally Posted by BPWingN 

Wow.

15 day returns, no after-sale price matching on a competitors price.
This is not going to help the death spiral.

Originally Posted by OugaBooga 

lmfao, this won't help sales also the Online competitors usually never have lower prices & if they do i BET you it will be after the BB sale ends, they're all sleeping with each other on this 1.
Glad i got my tv when i did, NO worries, there's other online competitors with better price matching anyways, just gonna be a bitch to send back if anything is wrong with the set
This new policy is ONLY going to hurt the "uninformed" blind shopper, it won't affect most of the shoppers in this forum..
looks like this is the last TV i get from BB unless i get the silver membership..

1 other thing, any1 have problems registering their TV with samsung online? seems it doesn't show this model in the list to pic from (canadian site).

Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 

I bought mine from hhgreg. Very smooth, detailed transaction that addressed all my needs. Bb would not move my old tv and stand down to the Cameroon. That alone was a deal breaker.

Originally Posted by Mavinwow 

So I'm diving in to calibration, i1D3 with Calman 5. I really have no idea what Im doing however. I'm having a few issues:

1) In order to even out my RGB curve with 10p balance, Im using a ton of offsets that I dont typically see other people needing to use, lots of +6/+7

2point RGB after offset/gain setting:



10p prior to calibration:

Originally Posted by OugaBooga 


1 other thing, any1 have problems registering their TV with samsung online? seems it doesn't show this model in the list to pic from (canadian site).

Originally Posted by 10k 

Your brightness and contrast are messed up. If your RGB are even after 2pt calibration, grayscale dE at those levels should also be low. Your 30% dE is high though.
Have you seen this guide http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
its incredibly helpful.

Very briefly:
1 - set white point to desired brightness using backlight and contrast. In movie mode you have almost no risk of clipping so just set contrast to 98-100, and then backlight up to desired white brightness. 30ftl for light controlled room. 40-50ftl for livingroom w/ windows.
2 - set brightness using 10% pattern until Y (light output) is 0.65% of 100% brightness pattern.
3 - Make sure your black isnt clipping at these settings using a black clipping pattern
4 - Set Red and Blue gains (not green, green is basically equivalent to contrast and brightness control, if you need to adjust green, adjust 2pt settings instead) using 80% pattern until RGB are even
5 - Set Red and Blue offsets using 30% patten (again, no green)
6 - Do 4 and 5 over and over again until both balance at the same time. Make small adjustments
7 - Start 10pt adjustments. Start at point 10 and work backwards. Remeasure entire grayscale after each adjustment. Make small adjustments. Brew coffee or get a 6pack.
8 - repeat 7 until you get a good result.

Originally Posted by Mavinwow 

So I'm diving in to calibration, i1D3 with Calman 5. I really have no idea what Im doing however. I'm having a few issues:

1) In order to even out my RGB curve with 10p balance, Im using a ton of offsets that I dont typically see other people needing to use, lots of +6/+7

2point RGB after offset/gain setting:



10p prior to calibration:



10p after calibration:



I also am having issues with individual colors, for example I have too much red in my blue:



And yet, I have no more red to down-adjust. How are you supposed to tone down colors when they are already turned down max?

Originally Posted by terry1hockeyfan 

Make sure you select 3D instead of LED and you should be good. I had the same problem at first.

Originally Posted by alien2108 

Now the big question for me....Do I get the now VERY nicely priced 46" ES8000 or wait on F7500 (F8000 will be to expensive)....I would say take the ES8000, am I wrong? I do not care about the Quad core....

Originally Posted by 10k 

Your brightness and contrast are messed up. If your RGB are even after 2pt calibration, grayscale dE at those levels should also be low. Your 30% dE is high though.
Have you seen this guide http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
its incredibly helpful.

Originally Posted by turboman123 

hello Mavinwow,
2p white balance looks great. That is a true white balance presentation.
10p white balance: I am not sure what that curve in Calman means. It is not a true RGB balance, because a true RGB balance is always centered around 100% (like your 2p). Your curve looks more like a gamma. Ask in the calibration section in the Calman thread about what Calman settings to use for 10p white balance (without gamma!)

Now the color. I also have the same problem as you. Problem is that panel has native undersaturated blue and my panel also has native undersaturated red.
The panel mixes any color by choosing R, G and B in a certain proportion. But if your 100% saturated blue is undersaturated, you CANNOT get it more saturated. You cannot get a point which lies outside the triangle created by the native RGB points of the panel.
Your blue point is undersaturated and is shifted towards red. That is why Calman shows a red component, giving an indication to reduce red, and it does not know you probably have red setting at zero already.
That is the problem when you try to calibrate the 100% saturation points, when some of them are native undersaturated.
For this reason, I think it is better to calibrate the 75% saturation point. However, when done in standard way, you probably get the same problem. Solution could be to reduce the general color setting, and increase Blue component for 75% blue saturation point, while keeping red/green component minimal.
I have not tried this myself, but I plan to do it soon. When done, I will report.

Originally Posted by terry1hockeyfan 

I currently have all of my external components (Bluray, PVR) going into tv via hdmi and an optical cable going to my soundbar. Would there be any benefit in running either of these two components directly to the soundbar? Or will the sound and video be the same the way I have it? Any advice would be appreciated.

Originally Posted by terry1hockeyfan 

Thanks! Am I losing any sound possibilities by going this way?

Originally Posted by Mavinwow 


Depends on the sound bar, some can decode things like dolby digital and whatnot, but the optical from your TV will be able to pass through a 5.1 audio stream. To be honest, you will not really see a significant improvement in sound even if you were using trueHD audio and whatnot given that you are using a sound bar. Your audio quality is limited more by the hardware than the audio stream it is playing.

If your goal is great audio, I would highly recommend getting an AV receiver with HDMI switching and video processing (can get a decent onkyo for $200-$300) as well as standalone speakers/subwoofer. Even decent quality stand-alone speakers will sound much better than any sound bar.

I think sound bars are great for an extra bedroom TV or workout room to improve the terrible built-in sound, but for your main home theatre dedicated speakers are the way to go.

Originally Posted by terry1hockeyfan 

Thanks! Am I losing any sound possibilities by going this way?