or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 428

post #12811 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Actually, nope, don't need to be a costco member nor do you need to buy the TV from them (although non-members get charged like $6 more). Very sweet deal. No brainer really - and I never buy warranties. Right before I ran out of time, Anthony was having a lot of issues and relay being insistent that everyone should get it. I've glad I took his advice. As for him being 86ed, no he wasn't, but he did post he'd be laying low real soon because of going over seas.

so how does it work, because i just got a 60ES8000 from Paul's. do i just head over the Costco's website and sign up? what's the process. can you link me?
post #12812 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebignewt View Post

So what's the difference between AMP Clear and AMP Smooth in terms of what you see on the screen? I've never changed that setting from Clear.

I have mine set to Standard. I tested Clear and Standard using a pattern with a moving bar from the GCD disk (see Calibration section on the forum). There are patterns with different frame rates.
With the setting Clear, the moving bar was always stuttering. With Standard, the motion was clear.

I have not compared real content viewing with both settings, except during the credits at the end of a movie. With Standard setting, the credits roll on the screen much smoother.
I know many prefer the Clear setting, but based on my testing, I have set it to Standard.
post #12813 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by howzz1854 View Post

so how does it work, because i just got a 60ES8000 from Paul's. do i just head over the Costco's website and sign up? what's the process. can you link me?

Sure thing. I documented it live as I was doing it just for this reason here.....

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1399319/official-samsung-unxxes8000-owners-thread/5310#post_22481244
post #12814 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

I know I'm leaving someone out) - who further helped with extensive calibration information and a common repository to access these settings.
And the Oscar for perseverance in calibration goes to ..... Jestered!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

It has been an honor and a privilege to be part of this Forum.
In the movies, that is what they normally say in a dramatic way, before the hero saves the world by committing a heroic act and killing himself.
Rick: you have me worried. What's up???!!!
post #12815 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebignewt View Post

Love the Avengers 3D, it was the first 3D movie I bought and watched on it. Excellent.
So what's the difference between AMP Clear and AMP Smooth in terms of what you see on the screen? I've never changed that setting from Clear.

Also I appreciate Turboman and 10k and Jestered posting their recent settings changes. I found it interesting that 10k and Turbo's settings are pretty close. I like it when 2 people calibrate different panels and get similar settings. I also applaud 10k for at least partially recommending using Dynamic Conrast and Black Enhancer. I realize how those may make calibration a nightmare because they are a moving target, but I honestly believe (and it may be wishful thinking) that using these features is why I like Garnoch's Standard settings most of all so far. Again thanks to all, this is one of the best forums I've ever been on. (and did the mods really 86 Anthony?).

Yeah I know it crushes black slightly but I personally really think Black Tone is key to enjoying the set more and if you have the WOW disc or AVS files or any of that stuff, you can get it to almost be a non issue with it turned one - to the eye. Several people in this thread have commented on blacks looking "green", especially off angle. Well, not with Black Tone on low. It's easy to test it. Turn off all the lights, sit off angle to make it obvious, turn on a pure black screen with Black Tone off. You'll notice some flashlighting of course and you'll notice the the black screen isn't really black, it's a different color. Now turn Black Tone on the lowest setting of dark. BAM, the screen instantly looks black with no green or blue tints, flashlighting easily gets cut in half, and I feel my off angle viewing benefits from it. Can you or should you actually calibrated with it on. No. But after going through my process with it off, I do then tweak with it on to minimize crushing. Is it "perfectly calibrated". Nope, but I can enjoy it much more with BT on. Don't get me wrong though, I'm thrilled about the dedication to posting these great calibrations, and it will benefit a ton of people, but it goes back to what I wrote for the regular Joe in the Guide....

"I'm not a professional calibrator. You of course can hire one. If you do, I would give it a month to make sure you are going to keep it and to let it settle though, so to speak.
I would immediately get off of most of the default settings though with either your eye or by trying some of the many ES settings posted here and elsewhere. At a minimum, it is my belief that you should make sure you are on Standard or Movie mode, turn Sharpness down to between 0 and 20 and set your Backlight to a level that looks good in your room. You will get less apparent Clouding if you choose Standard over Movie mode.
Remember that all panels are a little different. My setting may not work perfectly for you and yours may not work perfectly for mine, but someone else's settings could get you very close and you can tweak from there to suit your eye.
If you want to take it to the next step, you can download the free calibration files offered here at AVS and/or buy a Blu-ray calibration disc like the Disney WOW disc (you only really need the one disc, not the two disc set).
AVS Files
http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration
With these, you be able to fairly easily "calibrate" many of the settings with your eye, like Brightness (black level), Contrast (white level) and Sharpness. When it comes to getting the "right" Color, White Balance or Gamma though, you'd really need equipment to measure the output on the panel. Some take it to an additional level and do exactly that rather than hire a professional. If you're just using your eyes though, it sometimes pays to go back to the other calibrations you've found (your favorite), plug in those Color, Gamma and White Balance settings and then adjust what you can for your panel with the files or discs you acquire. Go through your own calibrations more than once, as each time you change something, it will have an effect on what you've already changed. Three times would be enough. After that is done, you can then play with all those extra settings listed above to see which work for you and which don't"
post #12816 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebignewt View Post

What is meant by the "soap opera effect"? Having not watched hardly any of them I don't get a visual when a read that phrase like I do when I read "red push" or "crushed blacks" .

Imagine watching a movie like Dark Knight Rises or Skyfall, but everything looks like you're watching a live hockey or basketball game. That's how I described to a friend of mine.
post #12817 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebignewt View Post

What is meant by the "soap opera effect"? Having not watched hardly any of them I don't get a visual when a read that phrase like I do when I read "red push" or "crushed blacks" .

Imagine watching a movie like Dark Knight Rises or Skyfall, but everything looks like you're watching a live hockey or basketball game. That's how I described to a friend of mine. The visual atmosphere seems oddly bright like a live sporting event inside an arena.
Edited by esoxlee - 2/25/13 at 6:11pm
post #12818 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Can you or should you actually calibrated with it on. No. But after going through my process with it off, I do then tweak with it on to minimize crushing. Is it "perfectly calibrated". Nope, but I can enjoy it much more with BT on. Don't get me wrong though, I'm thrilled about the dedication to posting these great calibrations, and it will benefit a ton of people, but it goes back to what I wrote for the regular Joe in the Guide....
This is an important point. It is impossible to calibrate a set with these features on, but that doesnt mean that you cant or shouldnt enable them after a calibration. Just understand what you are giving up in exchange (e.g. crushed blacks). I would challenge that if you arent getting the right blacks w/o black tone then maybe you should raise brightness a little. In any case, turning black tone on the lowest setting is basically like taking 0-5% brightness and remapping it to 0% so if your current settings (or panel) are not able to reproduce an acceptable dark color between 0% and 5% brightness, then I can see how it would be desirable to instead just make all of that range appear as "black" instead. All down to personal preference.
Quote:
"I'm not a professional calibrator. You of course can hire one. If you do, I would give it a month to make sure you are going to keep it and to let it settle though, so to speak.
I would immediately get off of most of the default settings though with either your eye or by trying some of the many ES settings posted here and elsewhere. At a minimum, it is my belief that you should make sure you are on Standard or Movie mode, turn Sharpness down to between 0 and 20 and set your Backlight to a level that looks good in your room. You will get less apparent Clouding if you choose Standard over Movie mode.
Frankly, I would not recommend a professional calibration for the es8000 based on what I have learned in the last few weeks.
1 - This set has so many mode specific features, black tone, black enhancer, micro dimming, etc that no pro calibrator will possibly know all of the ins and outs of the set.
2 - The settings in galonzo's spreadsheet should get any panel of like size about 80% of the way there, and maybe you will get lucky and get 90-100% of the way there with some of the settings already posted. The difference between setting color management to "Auto" and to my meter calibrated settings is absolutely observable. I watched some golf this weekend and the grass color reproduction was definitely better with my settings, but Auto was more than acceptable, it was very good.

So what are you paying for? Definitely slightly to moderately better grayscale tracking, but there is no way a pro calibrator knows the specific ins and outs of color calibration on our sets, and Auto is pretty damn good... I'd rather have the $400...

Or not, do what you all want, its your money and your tv and your eyes. Guys like Rico are hugely satisfied with mostly default settings (not meant as a slam at all, full respect!), and as they say, seeing is believing!!!
post #12819 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

This is an important point. It is impossible to calibrate a set with these features on, but that doesnt mean that you cant or shouldnt enable them after a calibration. Just understand what you are giving up in exchange (e.g. crushed blacks). I would challenge that if you arent getting the right blacks w/o black tone then maybe you should raise brightness a little. In any case, turning black tone on the lowest setting is basically like taking 0-5% brightness and remapping it to 0% so if your current settings (or panel) are not able to reproduce an acceptable dark color between 0% and 5% brightness, then I can see how it would be desirable to instead just make all of that range appear as "black" instead. All down to personal preference.
Frankly, I would not recommend a professional calibration for the es8000 based on what I have learned in the last few weeks.
1 - This set has so many mode specific features, black tone, black enhancer, micro dimming, etc that no pro calibrator will possibly know all of the ins and outs of the set.
2 - The settings in galonzo's spreadsheet should get any panel of like size about 80% of the way there, and maybe you will get lucky and get 90-100% of the way there with some of the settings already posted. The difference between setting color management to "Auto" and to my meter calibrated settings is absolutely observable. I watched some golf this weekend and the grass color reproduction was definitely better with my settings, but Auto was more than acceptable, it was very good.

So what are you paying for? Definitely slightly to moderately better grayscale tracking, but there is no way a pro calibrator knows the specific ins and outs of color calibration on our sets, and Auto is pretty damn good... I'd rather have the $400...

Or not, do what you all want, its your money and your tv and your eyes. Guys like Rico are hugely satisfied with mostly default settings, and as they say, seeing is believing!!!

Exactly, man. Well said. If people without equipment like you "color" so to speak, I suggest they use it, get the free AVS files or WOW disc, to tweak a couple things for their panel, then play around with other settings to see what they like, knowing it's messing some of the "calibration" up.
post #12820 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

And the Oscar for perseverance in calibration goes to ..... Jestered!
In the movies, that is what they normally say in a dramatic way, before the hero saves the world by committing a heroic act and killing himself.
Rick: you have me worried. What's up???!!!

Ah, no worries. I stole it from Apollo 13!
post #12821 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

. . . [snip] . . .

Hey 10K - thanks for all the work and sharing. I am very much enjoying your movie mode settings -- first time I've really felt the strong draw of movie mode. I do bump up the brightness (EDIT: meant to say I bumped up the backlight) a bit for anything other than nighttime lights-out viewing as I have a very sunny / bright room. I also appreciate your attempts to calibrate standard -- I am experimenting with your earliest "sneak peek" standard settings for our cable / regular daytime viewing (without CE-dimming adjustments) and enjoying them. Pretty similar actually to what I was using before (a slightly modified version of Nitra's original settings). I gravitated towards your settings simply beacuse we have the same panel and size, and same firmware (whereas Turboman and Jestered are on different firmware or different panels - though I'll be playing with them more, too). Really, my thanks go out to all you guys who have devoted so much time to calibrating, discussing and sharing here in the thread (especially Turboman and Jestered), and that expressly includes Galonzo for keeping it all easy to digest in the google doc - best reference since Garnoch's guide.
Edited by Catt99 - 2/25/13 at 8:33pm
post #12822 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by howzz1854 View Post

bump please........... anyone?


I'm ready to replace my 65 that I returned for a refund a while back . Can you share where I can purchase a 60 for a hair over $2200?
post #12823 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Catt99 View Post

Hey 10K - thanks for all the work and sharing. I am very much enjoying your movie mode settings -- first time I've really felt the strong draw of movie mode. I do bump up the brightness a bit for anything other than nighttime lights-out viewing as I have a very sunny / bright room. I also appreciate your attempts to calibrate standard -- I am experimenting with your earliest "sneak peek" standard settings for our cable / regular daytime viewing (without CE-dimming adjustments) and enjoying them. Pretty similar actually to what I was using before (a slightly modified version of Nitra's original settings). I gravitated towards your settings simply beacuse we have the same panel and size, and same firmware (whereas Turboman and Jestered are on different firmware or different panels - though I'll be playing with them more, too). Really, my thanks go out to all you guys who have devoted so much time to calibrating, discussing and sharing here in the thread (especially Turboman and Jestered), and that expressly includes Galonzo for keeping it all easy to digest in the google doc - best reference since Garnoch's guide.

hello Catt99,
Maybe you miswrote or I misinterpreted your meaning. But for a brighter room, it is not the brightness setting which has to be bumped up, but the backlight setting!
The backlight setting bumps up the overall brightness. I have a bright room too, and in a bright room I set backlight even at the max setting of 20. For a half dark room, I use 5.

The brightness setting on the panel only has an effect on dark scenes, and even then only minimally.
post #12824 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by quicknick View Post

I'm ready to replace my 65 that I returned for a refund a while back . Can you share where I can purchase a 60 for a hair over $2200?

most stores now will price match. i went to Paul's TV, but Best Buy will do too. you just tell them that the lowest price online is XYZ, and they go and verify online. i did that yesterday when i went back to the store and told them my ES6500 had the infamous halo issue, and i looked around and the wife and i decided on a ES7500, and just when i was giving them the credi card, i went on amazon and saw Paul's was selling the 8000 model for $2200 something, so i told them to stop the transaction on the 7500 and that i wanted the 8000 for the online price, and they went to amazon, sure enough matched it. but like i said, you can do this with best buy as well. you just gotta find the right time where the price is right. i went online today again and the price on amazon is now $2300. so it fluctuates. it'll have to be a reputable store tho, not some joe schmo selling his/her tv through amazon.

did you have the 65inch ES8000? and now you're thinking about buying the 60 inch ES8000?? if so what was the reason.
post #12825 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

hello Catt99,
Maybe you miswrote or I misinterpreted your meaning. But for a brighter room, it is not the brightness setting which has to be bumped up, but the backlight setting!
The backlight setting bumps up the overall brightness. I have a bright room too, and in a bright room I set backlight even at the max setting of 20. For a half dark room, I use 5.

The brightness setting on the panel only has an effect on dark scenes, and even then only minimally.

You're absolutely right - I wrote brightness but meant backlight. I've gone as high as 15 but haven't tried 20 (except in 3D). I'm finding I like 10 or 11 more, and in a dark room even keeping it at 8 or close to rather than lower. Thanks for the correction as I would hate to muddy the waters! I am going to edit my original post just to prevent it from being misinterpreted.
post #12826 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by isupes View Post

I have a 65. I haven't seen the bezels on the 55 and 60's in person but from what I can tell in pics is that it looks like the 65's bezel is slightly thicker. But not by much. I was actually surprised when I got it cuz I thought the bezel would be thinner. In no way does it take away from the window effect you get with the ultra thin-ness of it.

Misleading Images on retailer websites is why you'd expect the bezels to be thinner.



From Samsung's Homepage of UN65ES8000 with black inner frame clearly visible.



60 incher From Future Shop's website with no black inner frame. Even the 60" Demo I saw at Future Shop did not have the black frame.




But here it is on the 60" from Samsung's Website.



Best Buy and Amazon also don't show the frame. Unless each model actually comes in black frame and without black frame.
post #12827 of 16126
thanks a million
post #12828 of 16126
Just got my stand build and put the tv up...man this thing is beast...going from a 1996 sony brt to this...lol.

What flaws should i look far as far as picture goes?

All i know about is dead pixels...anything else i should keep my eye out for?

Also are you guys hooking your AVRs? via optical Cable box>tv>optical to avr or passtru from cable box>avr>tv.
post #12829 of 16126
what kind of short comings are people experiencing with the 65 inch model compare to the 60. i am just curious so i know what to look for. i am getting my 60 inch tomorrow.
post #12830 of 16126
Calibrated my 46" ES8080 (EU model) with HCFR and Huey I had by hand:

First I had to raise R-Gain from 180->200 in Service menu as it was so far off (to low) I almost couldn't calibrate it via regular settings. Then:

MOVIE Mode
Picture Size -> Screen Fit
Color Tone -> Warm1
Black Tone-> Off for calibrating (then maybe Dark)
Contrast 81 (ftL 43.2)
Brightness 44 (Black Clipping)
Color 42
White Balance/Red Gain -> 47
White Balance/Blue Gain -> 34
White Balance/Red Offset -> 26
White Balance/Blue Offset -> 26
10p White Balance:
1 -1,0,-3
2 0,0,1
3 2,0,-1
4 0,1,3
5 -2,0,1
6 -2,0,2
7 0,0,2
8 1,0,3
9 0,0,2
10 0,0,0

BEFORE:



AFTER:



After calibration I also raised Gamma to +1 which I think is a bit better to get more details in dark pictures. Clouding is visible on pure black screen, but not when something is playing...

Since this is my first ever calibration any thoughts?
post #12831 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by alien2108 View Post

Since this is my first ever calibration any thoughts?

It looks like you used Contrast to set your FtL (~40). I made that mistake my first time calibrating too. I would suggest raising it to 100, or close to it, then lower the backlight to get you to your disired FtL. This will obivously help with your contrast ratio and will greatly enhance your blacks. I didn't see what you have the backlight currently set to, but I suspect it's too high.

It doesn't look like you set your grayscale/white balance correctly. You didn't post your grayscale readings, or the RGB chart, so it's hard to tell exactly what you did. The regular White Balance setting is actually setting 2 points on your 10P White Balance settings. If you set the regular White Balance settings correctly (usually at 30% and 80%) you should not have any changes in your 10P White Balance settings in those two intervals.

If you set the grayscale/white balance settings correctly, it will probably give you a much better gamma chart.

Are you not able to set the Color Space using your meter? You should be using Color Space to set the color settings and not the "Color" setting on the first page. Also, if you're not going to use Color Space to set your colors, you can use the "Color" setting to get it better than normal, but you will also need to set the "Tint" in the same place. Even better would be to leave the Color and Tint settings alone and set the Color Space settings to "Auto".

If you're not going to use Color Space to set colors, you should at least be able to get your grayscale much better. For anyone to help you much more in that area, it would really help to see the grayscale number readings and the RGB chart.

Good luck!
Edited by Jestered - 2/26/13 at 5:49am
post #12832 of 16126
These dogs look pretty good on the 60" es8000 for a tv commercial..the pix arent great since they are taken by a Windows Phone
.
post #12833 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

These dogs look pretty good on the 60" es8000 for a tv commercial..the pix arent great since they are taken by a Windows Phone
.

Bladrunner1959 - Pics look fabulous! How did the dog on the left get such beautiful, white "Chiclet" teeth? Hollywood smile....great Dentist!
post #12834 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

I have mine set to Standard. I tested Clear and Standard using a pattern with a moving bar from the GCD disk (see Calibration section on the forum). There are patterns with different frame rates.
With the setting Clear, the moving bar was always stuttering. With Standard, the motion was clear.

I have not compared real content viewing with both settings, except during the credits at the end of a movie. With Standard setting, the credits roll on the screen much smoother.
I know many prefer the Clear setting, but based on my testing, I have set it to Standard.

After an earlier suggestion and now your confirmation - - I've changed to "Standard" for AMP from "Clear." Works great!
post #12835 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

After an earlier suggestion and now your confirmation - - I've changed to "Standard" for AMP from "Clear." Works great!

Standard all the way...an easy choice for me.
post #12836 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by howzz1854 View Post

what kind of short comings are people experiencing with the 65 inch model compare to the 60. i am just curious so i know what to look for. i am getting my 60 inch tomorrow.

Vertical banding is the biggest issue on 65" sets. I've been lucky in that my 65" Sammy has minimal banding - - that apparently isn't the case with other buyers.

The 60" - from all accounts - - is suppose to be less prone to the vertical banding problems. I'm sure a lot of 60" owners can chime in, here, on their experiences.
post #12837 of 16126
I have a Best Buy Price Match question if anyone has some experience in this area.

I originally purchased my 60ES8000 in the first week of December '12, after a week I noticed the frame of the TV appeared to not be put together flush on the right side and I returned that unit and had it replaced on January 19th, 2013.

Today I noticed that this week's Best Buy ad has about a $400 price reduction and I'd like to go get that adjustment. I'm a Premier Silver Rewardzone Member and that extends the exchange window to 60 days.

Will best buy honor the January 19th date as my purchase date and give me the adjustment?
post #12838 of 16126
Been thinking about getting this es8000 or the es7500. Anyone here have the 7500 and take it back to exchange for the 8000? If so what made u do so?
post #12839 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by howzz1854 View Post

what kind of short comings are people experiencing with the 65 inch model compare to the 60. i am just curious so i know what to look for. i am getting my 60 inch tomorrow.

The only issue that my father's 65" has is slight banding. No clouding at all. No other issues. The 60" that I had was perfect except for one major flaw and deal killer: 3D was broken. It would not render 3D properly at all. Make sure you check 3D out as soon as you get it home.
post #12840 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

After an earlier suggestion and now your confirmation - - I've changed to "Standard" for AMP from "Clear." Works great!

Interesting. I'll give it a try. Thanks Rico, I tried your default settings experiment on my 7150 and the results are awesome. I had been using 10ks previous movie settings with standard color tone (thank you 10k) and they looked great. His new settings didn't look as good on my panel.
Your advised settings look much better to my eyes though. Thank you! In Movie Mode I set back light to 12 with echo sensor on, lowered sharpness to 15, set dynamic contrast to medium and black tone to darkest. I had also set amp to clear but will now try standard. Thanks again! I guess firmware updates are making a big difference on PQ.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: LCD Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread