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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 429

post #12841 of 15493
2/26/13 at 7:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkcohen View Post

... Make sure you check 3D out as soon as you get it home.

Good advice; if you don't have anything on hand, there is some 3D demo material found in the Smarthub.
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post #12842 of 15493
2/26/13 at 7:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by galonzo View Post

Good advice; if you don't have anything on hand, there is some 3D demo material found in the Smarthub.
The time magician demo thing in the 3d app in smart hub is probably the best demo of 3d tech, even if the content is completely ridiculous. smile.gif
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post #12843 of 15493
2/26/13 at 9:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by galonzo View Post

Sounds defective, my camera was working immediately after the initial setup.

One last thing you could try is the 'ol PC "hard reset"; unplug the TV and hold the power button for at least 5 seconds (to drain all power from the set and hopefully reset all components), leave unplugged for at least a minute total, and then power back up and see what happens. Before you do this, I would reset to factory via the Troubleshooting menu first.

Let us know how it goes!

Thanks, I ened up doing a factory reset from the service menu, still doesn't work. Really disappointing, now i've got to wait for Samsung to send someone out here.
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post #12844 of 15493
2/26/13 at 10:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

Sony1717,

Even if the 65F8000 improves the banding issue to the point where it is barely noticeable on solid color screens, even the faintest of bands are magnified with soccer and hockey. If you watch a ton of soccer, you will be better served with a 60 inch model as anything 65 or larger from any brand will still have at least minimal banding which is a non issue with movies and tv shows, but still a distraction for those who watch a ton of hockey and soccer.

Did you try the 60es8000?

Cmay - nope haven't tried a 60" yet. My strategy now is to stretch out my return on #4 until the F8000 comes out and try that in the 65.

I really love the 65" size - it fills our entertainment center just right and I appreciate the bigger picture.

Set #3 and #4 where I have looked for the banding are pretty darn bad in my opinion. Something with a little more uniformity, but not perfection, I'd be willing to accept.

Hopefully that will be the F8000.

What are you doing at this point?
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post #12845 of 15493
2/26/13 at 12:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by uclabruinn View Post

Interesting. I'll give it a try. Thanks Rico, I tried your default settings experiment on my 7150 and the results are awesome. I had been using 10ks previous movie settings with standard color tone (thank you 10k) and they looked great. His new settings didn't look as good on my panel.
Your advised settings look much better to my eyes though. Thank you! In Movie Mode I set back light to 12 with echo sensor on, lowered sharpness to 15, set dynamic contrast to medium and black tone to darkest. I had also set amp to clear but will now try standard. Thanks again! I guess firmware updates are making a big difference on PQ.

Glad it worked out! Yes, I really believe the firmware updates have made a huge difference in PQ - - especially the last two.

That's not to say that folks shouldn't experiment with the posted settings by all the dedicated calibrators on this forum - - especially if you are not happy with the default settings - - either "Standard" or "Movie" - - even with tweaking.

Personal, subjective opinion - - I think that there is a lot of processing and video aspects of our Sammy sets that can't be calibrated or fully accounted for. Of course, you could simply research the extensive documentation in the manual provided. Wait a minute...what manual? smile.gif

Reminds me of the old "idiot" lights on cars that told you something was wrong (Service Now!!!) but with absolutely no information provided as to the problem itself.
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post #12846 of 15493
2/26/13 at 12:54pm
Rico, that's hilarious broheem!
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post #12847 of 15493
2/26/13 at 1:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

It looks like you used Contrast to set your FtL (~40). I made that mistake my first time calibrating too. I would suggest raising it to 100, or close to it, then lower the backlight to get you to your disired FtL. This will obivously help with your contrast ratio and will greatly enhance your blacks. I didn't see what you have the backlight currently set to, but I suspect it's too high.

Hello Jestered!

Hmm....there is NO WAY I can get 100% Grayscale RGB values to 100% when I have Contrast 90-100. 10p calibration does not work correctly at all. If I go to setting 9 or 10 and change something I get no reaction at all at 90% and 100% Grayscale. The only way yo get those values under control is to lower contrast to somewhere around 80%.

For example when I have contrast 100% my RGB values at 100% (White) are 73%,110%,73% and they do not move at all when I change 10p at 9 or 10 even to +10.

Am I doing something wrong or!?
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post #12848 of 15493
2/26/13 at 1:23pm
i just got the TV delivered 60ES8000. quickly set it up and mounted the thing. there's nothing much to report except standard mode picture is beautiful. color is beautiful, without having to tweak anything like my ES6500. i am happy to report that there's no screen uniformity issue at all, or flash lighting issue what so ever. i tried bumping the backlight to max and still don't see any issues. even in movie mode. looks like samsung has finally mastered their quality towards end of production.

my only issue is, ECO Sensor doesn't seem to be working. i set it and i don't see it bumping up the backlight. my previous ES6500 will bump up the backlight during day time, and i got a sun shining through my window now and still no change in backlight. does anyone else have this eco sensor not working issue?

the tv came default with 1046 firmware. so far i am really happy with the tv. oh yeah, and no green halo ghost trail like the one that plagued my last ES6500.
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post #12849 of 15493
2/26/13 at 1:47pm
Hey guys. So i'm planning to get this model from HHgregg on closeout. Ive always preferred samsung and have had their 6000 level plasma for over a year. But i'm moving up to a 60inch and wanted an LED... Ive seen mixed reviews on the es8000 even though, to me, it looks like an amazing TV based solely on PQ. Dont really want to read through 400 pages and 8 months of ups and downs, so would anyone experienced in this thread and with this tv like to tell me if they've been please with this model? if not, any other suggestions? Thanks (and sorry if this is the wrong place for this question)
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post #12850 of 15493
2/26/13 at 2:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Freelemur View Post

Hey guys. So i'm planning to get this model from HHgregg on closeout. Ive always preferred samsung and have had their 6000 level plasma for over a year. But i'm moving up to a 60inch and wanted an LED... Ive seen mixed reviews on the es8000 even though, to me, it looks like an amazing TV based solely on PQ. Dont really want to read through 400 pages and 8 months of ups and downs, so would anyone experienced in this thread and with this tv like to tell me if they've been please with this model? if not, any other suggestions? Thanks (and sorry if this is the wrong place for this question)
I think it's fair to say that the several regulars on this forum are more than happy with this set. On person's experience was changed with a firmware update in fact. I never had a plasma but from what's been said here this LED edgelit set is way better for everyday viewing. I came from a 56" 2005 DLP so this is a big imrovement for me. I've not had any issues, and have used various settings suggested here and liked them. A few people have had to return their sets for dead pixels and for bad boards, but that happens with any electronics device.
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post #12851 of 15493
2/26/13 at 2:31pm
HHG also sells the 60E7000 plasma if you decide against LED. And lower price. But ES8000 is very nice TV, but make sure you like LED instead of plasma.
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post #12852 of 15493
2/26/13 at 2:42pm
Freelemur, buy it RTFN and you won't look back. IMHO its the best tv for the money.
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post #12853 of 15493
2/26/13 at 3:34pm
Cool, thanks for the feedback. I visited this forum before making my last purchase (the plasma) and was really grateful for the help. moving to a new house where the living room is a bit brighter, also have a larger budget than i did back then... so I think i will go with the LED.
I'll report back once i get it all hooked up.

Btw, i also need help picking out a new AVR so if anyone wants to check out this other thread, that'd be cool too smile.gif
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1445164/help-please-sony-str-dn1030-setup
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post #12854 of 15493
2/26/13 at 3:41pm
Well, trying to calibrate standard mode is an exercise in futility. There is huge blue push at 100%, you can tame it at 80%, but 100 and 109 are a lost cause.

FYI, here is how much light my set puts out at various backlights at 100% contrast in movie mode, so you can tweak your backlight as needed:

6- 24.9
7- 28.4
8- 31.8
9- 35.2
10- 38.7
11- 42.1
12- 45.5
13- 48.8
14- 52.2
15- 55.6

From ChadB, calibrator: "For conventional TVs, I like to end up with around 35 fL in a totally dark room, 45-50 fL in a typical dimly lit media room, and 65 fL in a bright living room."

In contrast, a backlight of 11 on standard mode puts out ~65

Gonna watch these new movie settings for awhile that I came up and see how I like them.
Edited by Mavinwow - 2/26/13 at 3:50pm
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post #12855 of 15493
2/26/13 at 4:09pm
I got about 39fL@ BL 6 and about 34fL@5. Movie mode. 2.2 gamma 6500K. I also gave up on standard mode without 10P adjustment waste of time for me.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1399319/official-samsung-unxxes8000-owners-thread/12330#post_22968745
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post #12856 of 15493
2/26/13 at 4:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickS View Post

I got about 39fL@ BL 6 and about 34fL@5. Movie mode. 2.2 gamma 6500K. I also gave up on standard mode without 10P adjustment waste of time for me.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1399319/official-samsung-unxxes8000-owners-thread/12330#post_22968745

Interesting, wonder why mine is so different? i1D3 with calman basic on 100% white background, movie, warm 2, 2.2 gamma.

55 inch panel, TS01
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post #12857 of 15493
2/26/13 at 4:25pm
Very nice price drops on UN65ES8000
Cleveland Plasma Insider
» Get the latest news and updates at the Cleveland Plasma sponsor page.
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Cleveland Plasma Insider
» Get the latest news and updates at the Cleveland Plasma sponsor page.
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post #12858 of 15493
2/26/13 at 4:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

This is an important point. It is impossible to calibrate a set with these features on, but that doesnt mean that you cant or shouldnt enable them after a calibration. Just understand what you are giving up in exchange (e.g. crushed blacks). I would challenge that if you arent getting the right blacks w/o black tone then maybe you should raise brightness a little. In any case, turning black tone on the lowest setting is basically like taking 0-5% brightness and remapping it to 0% so if your current settings (or panel) are not able to reproduce an acceptable dark color between 0% and 5% brightness, then I can see how it would be desirable to instead just make all of that range appear as "black" instead. All down to personal preference.
Frankly, I would not recommend a professional calibration for the es8000 based on what I have learned in the last few weeks.
1 - This set has so many mode specific features, black tone, black enhancer, micro dimming, etc that no pro calibrator will possibly know all of the ins and outs of the set.
2 - The settings in galonzo's spreadsheet should get any panel of like size about 80% of the way there, and maybe you will get lucky and get 90-100% of the way there with some of the settings already posted. The difference between setting color management to "Auto" and to my meter calibrated settings is absolutely observable. I watched some golf this weekend and the grass color reproduction was definitely better with my settings, but Auto was more than acceptable, it was very good.

So what are you paying for? Definitely slightly to moderately better grayscale tracking, but there is no way a pro calibrator knows the specific ins and outs of color calibration on our sets, and Auto is pretty damn good... I'd rather have the $400...

Or not, do what you all want, its your money and your tv and your eyes. Guys like Rico are hugely satisfied with mostly default settings (not meant as a slam at all, full respect!), and as they say, seeing is believing!!!

I couldn't disagree with you more on this statement!

Have you ever had a pro calibrator do one of your display's? You would be surprised at the in's and out's they know as well as service menu. These are not $300 economy displays were talking about here and do benefit from calibration....you should know that.....look at how much time and money you spent to calibrate your TV. The people here are looking at some of the best TV's on the market and to get the best out of them calibration is the only way to get to the best picture.
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post #12859 of 15493
2/26/13 at 4:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Freelemur View Post

Hey guys. So i'm planning to get this model from HHgregg on closeout. Ive always preferred samsung and have had their 6000 level plasma for over a year. But i'm moving up to a 60inch and wanted an LED... Ive seen mixed reviews on the es8000 even though, to me, it looks like an amazing TV based solely on PQ. Dont really want to read through 400 pages and 8 months of ups and downs, so would anyone experienced in this thread and with this tv like to tell me if they've been please with this model? if not, any other suggestions? Thanks (and sorry if this is the wrong place for this question)

If you really are interested in PQ I believe one of the best measures of a tv's capability is its ANSI contrast ratio. I believe one of the resident calibrators in this thread, 10k, said this earlier as well. So I would look at the ANSI ratios (not hard to google them) of the sets you are thinking of getting and comparing. Think the average tends to hover around 3000:1 ANSI from what I've seen and Excellent is anything over 10,000:1 ANSI imo and can only be had on the high end sets geared towards PQ. Color accuracy is important, but most mid to high end sets have CMS systems that allow for them to get calibrated to be accurate, but for some people out of the box accuracy is important.
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post #12860 of 15493
2/26/13 at 4:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by alien2108 View Post

Hello Jestered!

Hmm....there is NO WAY I can get 100% Grayscale RGB values to 100% when I have Contrast 90-100. 10p calibration does not work correctly at all. If I go to setting 9 or 10 and change something I get no reaction at all at 90% and 100% Grayscale. The only way yo get those values under control is to lower contrast to somewhere around 80%.

For example when I have contrast 100% my RGB values at 100% (White) are 73%,110%,73% and they do not move at all when I change 10p at 9 or 10 even to +10.

Am I doing something wrong or!?

Something is definately not right. Did you set the regular White Balance setting before doing anything else? Your Green level across the scale should be at 100% without you changing anything at all, and not 110%. I don't know what's causing that, but it's not right. The HCFR software should be using Green as your reference and using it at 100%. You should only be changing the Red and Blue using 2P and 10P white balance to get those to match the Green (at 100%). For this basic grayscale set up, you should NOT be changing Green anywhere.

You may be causing this problem with the change you made in the Service Menu. I'd suggest setting that back to default. Then here's what I would do:

*Reset all of your White Balance and 10P settings back to default.
*Run the Grayscale readings using HCFR and your meter, but don't change anything yet.
*Put the 80% test pattern (gray/white) on the TV.
*Put the HCFR software in cont. read mode
*Go to your White Balance settings on the TV and go to the 3 Gain settings
*Change the Red and Blue gain settings until your x and y readings at 80% are 313 and 329 (100% Red and Blue)
*Do the same thing at 30% using the 30% test pattern, the 30% scale readings and using the R and B Offset settings in White Balance.
*Keep going back and forth from 80% and 30% tweaking until you don't need to make any more adjustments on either one and you have the readings you're wanting (313 & 329).

Now, run the grayscale readings again and see where you're set. You should be pretty close on all scale readings now. At this point you'll use the 10P settings to fine tune the scale. You WILL NOT need to make any adjustments to 80% and 30% (interval 8 and 3 in 10P settings) because you've already set those using White Balance Offset and Gain settings.

I'd like to see your RGB and grayscale chart/readings after you've set White Balance and before messing with 10P, if you want to post those.
Edited by Jestered - 2/26/13 at 5:02pm
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post #12861 of 15493
2/26/13 at 5:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by howzz1854 View Post

my only issue is, ECO Sensor doesn't seem to be working. i set it and i don't see it bumping up the backlight. my previous ES6500 will bump up the backlight during day time, and i got a sun shining through my window now and still no change in backlight. does anyone else have this eco sensor not working issue?

Eco sensor works the other way: it reduces backlight in darker room, provided that the value set in Eco sensor is below the backlight setting. E.g. for me, I set backlight to 15 for the bright room, and Eco sensor to 5. Then the Eco mode reduces backlight automaticallty to 5 in a dark room.
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post #12862 of 15493
2/26/13 at 7:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickS View Post

I couldn't disagree with you more on this statement!

Have you ever had a pro calibrator do one of your display's? You would be surprised at the in's and out's they know as well as service menu. These are not $300 economy displays were talking about here and do benefit from calibration....you should know that.....look at how much time and money you spent to calibrate your TV. The people here are looking at some of the best TV's on the market and to get the best out of them calibration is the only way to get to the best picture.
I meant no offense to any pro calibrators with my comments. My main point is that with the settings that people have posted here, chances are that you can get a pretty damn good picture for $0. A pro calibration would obviously be better than settings off the internet, but $400 better? If someone broke into my house and secretly switched my settings with Turboman's I wonder if I would ever notice...

Regarding pro calibrator knowledge of ES8000, I just have to think, how many ES8000's have been sold? What percent of ES8000 owners pay for a pro calibration? How many calibrators in my area have calibrated ES8000 even once? More than five times? Not many I would guess.

As to my own money and time investment, I took to it as sort of a hobby, which is why I bought a cheap meter ($170) and used the free HCFR software. I would not recommend doing what I did to anyone that doesnt already enjoy messing with gadgets and learning these types of things.
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post #12863 of 15493
2/26/13 at 7:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

After an earlier suggestion and now your confirmation - - I've changed to "Standard" for AMP from "Clear." Works great!
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post #12864 of 15493
2/26/13 at 7:06pm
I've tried all AMP settings including fooling around with some custom, and it's Clear for me. Based on these recent comments, just tried Standard and got immediate stutter on pic. Back to Clear for me.
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post #12865 of 15493
2/26/13 at 7:15pm
What looks GOOD to my eyes, is calibration enough for me. I understand the purist thing, but really guys, I think some of you take it just a BIT too seriously.

Some of these posts might give someone the idea that it takes all this work and calibration to have a good picture. It really doesn't.

No offense intended to anyone. Just my thoughts.
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post #12866 of 15493
2/26/13 at 7:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

Eco sensor works the other way: it reduces backlight in darker room, provided that the value set in Eco sensor is below the backlight setting. E.g. for me, I set backlight to 15 for the bright room, and Eco sensor to 5. Then the Eco mode reduces backlight automaticallty to 5 in a dark room.

thanks for the info. i gave it a try today, and sure enough i blocked off the sensor with my hand it and dimmed down. i guess it kinda works differently compare to the ES6500. the ES6500 will bump the brightness to full 100% in day time, and lower it to the min backlight level you set it to at night. looks like i just gotta set my backlight at the level i like during the day and set the Eco sensor to a few notches below that.

thanks for all your help.

this TV is amazing, in standard mode, with micro dimming on, it kills all four corner backlight spills. only in movie mode i could spot faintly on the four corner spills.
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post #12867 of 15493
2/26/13 at 7:34pm
Just an update on my ES8000 picture issues... I called Samsung today as recommended by the place I purchased the tv and they did the remote management thing and were unable to solve the problem this way. They were very nice though and actually seemed concerned about my problem. I was scheduled for a service call and upon receiving a call from the place that was coming to take a look at it was told they would probably be replacing the board again, etc. After explaining that the same stuff was done to my previous ES8000 with no improvement, and since I don't want to go through the hassle again the person suggested "off the record" that I just exchange or return the tv since I am still in the 15 day exchange period, and I also agree with this. I will call the place I purchased it from tomorrow and see what they want to do, but I am thinking on just waiting until the F8000 comes out and getting that one instead.

Thank You to everyone for their suggestions and attempts to help me solve my picture issues! I will let you know how it turns out.
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post #12868 of 15493
2/26/13 at 7:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie1210 View Post

What looks GOOD to my eyes, is calibration enough for me. I understand the purist thing, but really guys, I think some of you take it just a BIT too seriously.

At least for me, and I think most of the others that are calibrating their TVs by meter here, it's not about being a "purist ". I'm not going by the standard ISF calibration model. I don't think most the others are either. I"m simply calibrating my grayscale and colors as acurate as possible while tweaking the things that I personally don't like about the look. I'm still trying to find the right FtL level for my eyes, so I'm not done yet. In my opinion though, the grayscale and colorscale is either acurate or it's not. There's really no arguing about that. That being said, I've never told anyone that isn't doing what I"m doing that they are not being serious enough about the way their TV looks, so I'm not sure why I'm being told I'm being too serious about it.
Edited by Jestered - 2/26/13 at 8:08pm
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post #12869 of 15493
2/26/13 at 8:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

At least for me, and I think most of the others that are calibrating their TVs by meter here, it's not about being a "purist ". I'm not going by the standard ISF calibration model. I don't think most the others are either. I"m simply calibrating my grayscale and colors as acurate as possible while tweaking the things that I personally don't like about the look. I'm still trying to find the right FtL level for my eyes, so I'm not done yet. In my opinion though, the grayscale and colorscale is either acurate or it's not. There's really no arguing about that. That being said, I've never told anyone that isn't doing what I"m doing that they are not being serious enough about the way their TV looks, so I'm not sure why I'm being told I'm being too serious about it.

Why so serious?

smile.gif

Kidding aside. If you like tweaking and tinkering, more power to you. My comment was directed more at people who MAY think all this tinkering is NECESSARY for these TV's.

But what do I know? I still think MOVIE MODE is hideous.
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post #12870 of 15493
2/26/13 at 8:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie1210 View Post

Why so serious?

smile.gif

Kidding aside. If you like tweaking and tinkering, more power to you. My comment was directed more at people who MAY think all this tinkering is NECESSARY for these TV's.

But what do I know? I still think MOVIE MODE is hideous.

The ES8000 is probably the worst TV you could have bought if you are the type who likes to stick with factory settings. But as many have pointed out.... with the right tweaking and calibrating, it can rival the VT50 and come close to the HX950 (probably nothing can rival the Sharp Elite at least 2D wise). I had movie mode tweaked using Turboman's pre update settings and it rivaled my 65VT50 for reproducing a true cinema picture. Even with the update, I don't think it can rival my 65HX950, but i'm sure it can come damn close or at least as close as an edge lit can come to equaling a full array with local dimming.

I understand where you are coming from, but the ES8000 does need to be calibrated for it to reach its potential. Otherwise, your out of the box settings especially on standard is going to be blown out of the water by just about every set out there when compared head to head.

I would bet that if Bladerunner posted some pics and you then posted the exact same scene, Bladerunners pics would blow yours away.

All kidding aside as well, nothing wrong with leaving your set in an out of the box mode, but most people who visit these forums are here for 1 of 2 things..... to either discuss a defect or discuss how to maximize potential.
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