Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 430

Jestered, I may no longer have my ES8000, but I'll be the first one to say that what you and 10K are doing, and Garnoch and Turboman before you..... the sharing with other ES8000 owners embodies what these forums are all about. Not everyone is going to have either the time to calibrate or the extra money to pay someone to calibrate, but doing all of your tests and sharing your results is very generous especially considering how much time it takes to do so.

They should be giving this set away free at this point to anyone willing to look at 5 wide vertical bands smacking them in the face everytime you turn it on.

Cmay91472, did you see my dog pic back there? LOL


Yes, I really would put pix of scenes from my 8000 up against any comparison...of any tv. My weakness is that I only have a windows phone camera so I don't think it fairly shows my scenes...i could be wrong. I didn't get feedback on the dogs!!! LOL I think they look incredible

I'll check them out.

BTW.... Because of how amazing Skyfall's transfer was, it overshadowed another amazing transfer that came out the same day. Although a corny movie, the Man with the Iron Fists is also an amazing transfer with great detail and amazing sound. The scene with the Gemini Twins is reference material all the way both image and sound wise.

MH02 panel.
Disney WOW blu ray disc.

Is this banding bad enough to get a new unit?

So the question is 7500 or 8000
The TVs are very very close picture wise. One review that I read on the 7500 did alot of comparing of both models. The 8000 has a slightly better processor, better measured blacks, can produce a brighter picture, has better off angle viewing, has lower power consumption, and more zones of micro dimming. The 7500 has an all black bezel where the 8000 is black and has the silver edge.
It really depends on what kind of a deal you can get. I bought the 60-7500 for $2000 on boxing day. The 8000s werent on sale so the price difference was a grand. The 8000 imo wasnt worth a grand more. At one place I was at I was offered the 8000 for $500 more and again imo the $8000 wasnt worth $500 more. If you can get an 8000 in the the same size as a 7500 for $200 or $300 more, go for it. If you can get a great deal on a 7500 go for that too, you will not be disappointed

+1

Train crash among the best sound on any bluray to date.

Loaded question there.....

Yes, it is.

Will you get a better unit..... No.

Don't worry about static images, test panning shots because if a TV has banding that will be unwatchable, it will occur on panning scenes.

I agree! This is a hobby for me (for many years) but have always enjoyed getting the most out of the equipment I have purchased. I've have about 3K into calibration software/hardware. I first got interested a few years back when MichaelTLV from the forum here came to my house to calibrate a new projector. He is a ISF/THX instructor and teaches calibrators. I had him over for my next projector and a combined 6hrs of instruction from him convinced me to get my own equipment. I now calibrate all my displays in my home and even the three flat panels in my RV. The nice thing is when I turn on any of them they all have the same look calibrated to the same baseline I always use. One of the most important things I remember from having a professional calibrate my display was after he did all the measurements and charts he put in a reference disk he always uses(actual video) and said "now lets take a look at the picture" and make the necessary adjustments. I know that the equipment has paid for itself if I would have had all of the displays over the year's calibrated and has been a fun learning curve.

Also, the "Samsara" BD disk is eye candy!

+ 1000

I marvel at the temples in the beginning from Indonesia?

Also love the scene from the sulfur mines.

Very sad to see the kids sifting through the huge mounds of trash though.

I went ahead and did some testing on this setting myself this evening (after plugging in 10k's movie settings, spot on btw, can’t thank the calibrators enough), and I can say without a doubt that film-based bluray content (and possibly all 24p content) should be played using the "Clear" setting; fans of any other setting (perhaps besides anyone who has a custom setting close to Clear) should at least hear me out about how I arrived at this conclusion:

The opening scene of The Dark Knight is a true, reference IMAX (i.e. no letterbox, full 1080p resolution) transfer, and it is a slow zoom to the all-glass building that gets a window busted. During the zoom (and if you're set to Standard or Smooth), you'll see some rows of windows on the building behind the one being zoomed in on sort of smear, then the same thing will happen to the vertical lines of the decorative rooftop caps in the foreground. Finally, just before the zoom ends, one of the windows is a vent (very obvious) that will show some jumpiness of the vent lines. If you're set to Clear (or a close custom setting), or even “Off”, none of this happens.

Of course, if this doesn't bother you, or if you think it's a small price to pay for the overall look you get with Standard, then by all means, proceed with your favorite setting. I'm only sharing my findings and informing for the sake of anyone who hasn't yet been able to decide on a setting for AMP, or for anyone else curious.

Of course, as 10k pointed out, good animation content can look amazing with a setting of Smooth, so needless to say, it really depends on the source and material being viewed.

Blade, the dogs look great!

The general manager at the HHGregg where I bought it said he would give me as many panels as I wanted until I was happy, pr he would make me a fantastic deal on another TV. Very nice guy. I do not want to drop down to the 60" model, I'm not THAT anal about the picture. No offense to anyone who is. My issue though is it is pretty noticeable when watching scenes with a sky or a white background. I also have some black clouding. Very disappointed. The picture on this TV is pretty awesome. The GM also told me I could audition other TV's in home until I found something I liked.

Ok, I spill the dirty secret. The Sharp Elite was reported in last year's shootout to have bad color tracking. This means that you can calibrate the 100% saturation to perfection, the below 100% saturation points are way off, in a big way.
The big VT50 fan who wrote in this thread - sorry, forgot the user name, getting old- also said the Elite is excellent , apart from color tracking.

This gives me some satisfaction. About two years ago, almost nobody was checking color tracking. I had a Sharp Aquos top model (not Elite, but probably close), and with the aid of another users excel file, I measured that color tracking on my Aquos was way off. When I reported it, some comments were my meter must have been off. Way off, my xxxx.

Back to the ES8000: color tracking is looking good on this babe.

Washed , or in user's condition?

Just as i was starting to fall in love with the tv...2nd day...i get a dead pixel -_________-...........TS01 Panel.

Thanks Galonzo for the awesome explanation of amp and your research. I followed your suggestion and totally agree.
Btw, I am back to 10k's settings and they are definitely the best. I feel OCD with all this switching back and forth :-) Thanks 10k and all the calibrators for all your work!

Hey!

I just changed Red Gain in service menu to higher value (168->200). Without the change I was not able to set Red to 100% on 80% Gray even when Gain was +50 (Read was on 97%). I never changed anything for Green anywhere in the menus, I know I am not supposed to change Green.

I did try to reset everything to default and immediately after that I only changed Contrast to 90-100 and Backlight to ~15, looked at it on 100% Gray (White). Red and Blue were too low and chaining anything under White Balance or 10p WB does not raise them at all (but I can set them up/.they react to changes normally at 80% gray of course). The ONLY way to get Red and Blue to 100% at Gray 100% is to set Contrast ~80 and Backlight ~15 (ftL 41.683). So now I ended up with the following and my lines do look quite nice:

MOVIE Mode
Picture Size -> Screen Fit
Color Tone -> Warm1
Contrast 80
Backlight 15 (ftL 41.683)
Brightness 43
Sharpness 15
Color 50
White Balance/Red Gain -> 29
White Balance/Blue Gain -> 31
White Balance/Red Offset -> 28
White Balance/Blue Offset -> 23
10p White Balance -> (5=60%)
1 0,0,-1
2 -2,0,1
3 0,0,0
4 0,0,0
5 -3,0,-1
6 -4,0,0
7 -3,0,0
8 0,0,0
9 0,0,0
10 0,0,0

Unfortunately, you can go through a dozen 65ES8000s and you most likely won't get one that is significantly better than what you posted.

If you are not willing you to drop down to a 60ES8000, your options are limited if you want LED and 65+ and you are going to pay significantly more unless you are willing to get an LG or Vizio.

Agreed, there are many issues with even the vaunted Elite such as the now well known "blob" defects, but I have yet to find any set that will calibrate perfect. Not Sharp, not Sony, not Panasonic and certainly not Samsung either.... and don't even get me started on 3D on any Sharp brand TV or other manufacturers using a "sharp" panel.... cough, ahem 60ES8000.

Not uncommon with Samsung. Change out until you get one without any. Use color slides and you will know if you have any within 5 minutes of turning it on.

Thx for the heads up on the Costco square trade warranty. It was only $5 more for non members. I also got bestbuy to credit the recent discount of the model. The perks of the 45 day return for silver member.


FYI. Word is that the BB return policy will be changing to 14 days in the next couple of months.

...Galonzo, an amazing AMP test which I just ran. I appreciate the tip. I have been in Standard amp since June (knowing some anomolies at times) and loving it with Clear having been my 2nd choice. On fw 1046.2 i think Clear actually is improved and closer to the overall characteristics of Standard that I love. In standard amp on Dark Knight,a section of the buildng on the left of "subject with window burst and vent" in the opening pan actually does a Michael Jackson move from Thriller as well as some moulding on the building to the right of subject..and of course the vent is "active" as well. Clear setting definately settles those items down. I have never seen such a severe example of the difference. That all said, I'm still not sure that for my overall viewing that I like clear over standard. I am just at a loss of terminology to explain the "effect".....In Standard amp, something just seems a stitch more lifelike and "being there" under the "hd, window to the world" thing...if that makes sense. I really need to test thi more. I saw less obvious difference in 1080i from FIOS but need to experiment as well... Nice find my man!!! ...and glad you liked the dogs...they just are "in my room" when that commercial comes on..freaky how some commercials are demo material. So, this is another lil wrinkle that shows how fw 1046(47) improved pic performance.

ditto, an amazing disc. Reminds me that I need to grab Baraka and "Slum Dog GaZillionairre"...Slumdog is razor on may scenes...
...Timmay77, i bought my tv at hhgregg; they were amazing in meeting all of my delivery related concerns as well as client retention practices with regard to price drops and exchanging my 1st bd-e6500 bluray player...They want market share and prove it in how they do business. Being the manager of client operations and solutions where i am, I told their manager to send me his resume when he wants to change games...

Hi there, have you changed the HCFR white point reference away from 6500k to whatever Warm1 corresponds to? If not, you are trying to calibrate 6500k using Warm1 which is probably more like 7500-8000k. If that is the problem then it makes sense that you would run out of red gain trying to get to 6500k whitepoint. Try using Warm2 instead, or if you don't like Warm2, measure color temperature using default white point settings in warm1 and change the whitepoint reference in HCFR to match.

For anyone playing videogames, "Off" is probably the best setting. You can see how badly AMP screws with games easily if you play any game with a third person over the shoulder camera. Stand in one place and spin the camera around. AMP will create a halo of pixel soup around the character while the camera is spinning.

Did you post your calibrations and if so, how far back were they? Thank you sir!