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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 431

post #12901 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by howzz1854 View Post

thanks for the info. i gave it a try today, and sure enough i blocked off the sensor with my hand it and dimmed down. i guess it kinda works differently compare to the ES6500. .
Where is that sensor? For me do make sure it's working I have to turn minimum BL to zero and back out of the menu and see it dim.
post #12902 of 15261
FWIW, from a reliable poster on the UK site:

"Ok guys, some official info for the more curious among you.

1) The final release version of EK will be a few cm thick and is designed to fit with wall mounted setups.
What was shown at CES was an engineering prototype.

2) The new "F" series will use the same LCD panels as the current "E" series.

3) An ES8000 + EK = F8000.

4) There's a big screen OLED in the works coming after the F series"

If this is true, that it is the same exact panel, sounds like cinema black is coming back smile.gif
post #12903 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mavinwow View Post

FWIW, from a reliable poster on the UK site:

"Ok guys, some official info for the more curious among you.

1) The final release version of EK will be a few cm thick and is designed to fit with wall mounted setups.
What was shown at CES was an engineering prototype.

2) The new "F" series will use the same LCD panels as the current "E" series.

3) An ES8000 + EK = F8000.

4) There's a big screen OLED in the works coming after the F series"

If this is true, that it is the same exact panel, sounds like cinema black is coming back smile.gif

mad.gif
post #12904 of 15261
Well I guess anyone needing a TV soon should get an es8000 on clearance prices and then get the EK after a price cut in a year. And anyone looking for a 65" should find another manufacturer lol.
post #12905 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

The ES8000 is probably the worst TV you could have bought if you are the type who likes to stick with factory settings. But as many have pointed out.... with the right tweaking and calibrating, it can rival the VT50 and come close to the HX950 (probably nothing can rival the Sharp Elite at least 2D wise). I had movie mode tweaked using Turboman's pre update settings and it rivaled my 65VT50 for reproducing a true cinema picture. Even with the update, I don't think it can rival my 65HX950, but i'm sure it can come damn close or at least as close as an edge lit can come to equaling a full array with local dimming.

I understand where you are coming from, but the ES8000 does need to be calibrated for it to reach its potential. Otherwise, your out of the box settings especially on standard is going to be blown out of the water by just about every set out there when compared head to head.

I would bet that if Bladerunner posted some pics and you then posted the exact same scene, Bladerunners pics would blow yours away.

All kidding aside as well, nothing wrong with leaving your set in an out of the box mode, but most people who visit these forums are here for 1 of 2 things..... to either discuss a defect or discuss how to maximize potential.

this is interesting because according to Cnet's review, ES8000's factory setting (pre-calibration), is actually one of the closest to reference as any other LCD LED TV they reviewed. the data they published R, G, B values are all closest to reference pre-calibration than any other sets.
post #12906 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mavinwow View Post

FWIW, from a reliable poster on the UK site:

"Ok guys, some official info for the more curious among you.

1) The final release version of EK will be a few cm thick and is designed to fit with wall mounted setups.
What was shown at CES was an engineering prototype.

2) The new "F" series will use the same LCD panels as the current "E" series.

3) An ES8000 + EK = F8000.

4) There's a big screen OLED in the works coming after the F series"

If this is true, that it is the same exact panel, sounds like cinema black is coming back smile.gif

But what of the "crystal black" panel and how are they physically going to add the extra USB and HDMI port? Other changes Cinema Black, precision black, CMR boosting to 1000, smart scene, web clear view then the new smarthub and all the voice and motion nonsense. It's a big ask to get all that. The person that posted that is reliable, I just hope his contact at samsung is.
post #12907 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by darcman View Post

So the question is 7500 or 8000
The TVs are very very close picture wise. One review that I read on the 7500 did alot of comparing of both models. The 8000 has a slightly better processor, better measured blacks, can produce a brighter picture, has better off angle viewing, has lower power consumption, and more zones of micro dimming. The 7500 has an all black bezel where the 8000 is black and has the silver edge.
It really depends on what kind of a deal you can get. I bought the 60-7500 for $2000 on boxing day. The 8000s werent on sale so the price difference was a grand. The 8000 imo wasnt worth a grand more. At one place I was at I was offered the 8000 for $500 more and again imo the $8000 wasnt worth $500 more. If you can get an 8000 in the the same size as a 7500 for $200 or $300 more, go for it. If you can get a great deal on a 7500 go for that too, you will not be disappointed

i just got my 60ES8000 for $100 more than the ES7500, it was a no brainer. $2200 something plus tax.
post #12908 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

Well I guess anyone needing a TV soon should get an es8000 on clearance prices and then get the EK after a price cut in a year. And anyone looking for a 65" should find another manufacturer lol.

Other than actual 4K sets being available..... 2013 is shaping up to be quite a let down on the LED front.

- Samsung recycles ES8000, changes UI and adds a feature they should have left in and voila.... F8000
- Sony essentially stops making any set larger than 55 with the exception of a pair of 4K sets and a pair of basic entry level models.
- Sharp does away with the Elite line.

Looks like 2013 may be the last great hurrah for Plasma with the ZT60 and Samsungs F8500.
post #12909 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by howzz1854 View Post

i just got my 60ES8000 for $100 more than the ES7500, it was a no brainer. $2200 something plus tax.

If you just got it, then you will soon realize CNET is clueless. No way the ES8000 can be considered anywhere close to being decent out of the box.
post #12910 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

Well I guess anyone needing a TV soon should get an es8000 on clearance prices and then get the EK after a price cut in a year. And anyone looking for a 65" should find another manufacturer lol.
My thoughts exactly. If there are no major changes, get an ES series now at a clearance price rather than the F series soon at a much higher price. And add the Ev Kit later when on sale. Although my budget leans more toward the ES7100. Can the Ev Kit be added to this model as well?
post #12911 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

If you just got it, then you will soon realize CNET is clueless. No way the ES8000 can be considered anywhere close to being decent out of the box.

Standard mode does not require a lot of work. At all.

Movie mode just needs to be thrown out.
post #12912 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie1210 View Post

Standard mode does not require a lot of work. At all.

Movie mode just needs to be thrown out.

To each his own I guess.
post #12913 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebignewt View Post

Where is that sensor? For me do make sure it's working I have to turn minimum BL to zero and back out of the menu and see it dim.

it's where the camera is
post #12914 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

If you just got it, then you will soon realize CNET is clueless. No way the ES8000 can be considered anywhere close to being decent out of the box.

it's not just Cnet, others too,
http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/samsung-ue55es8000-ue46es8000-201205301790.htm?page=Calibration

either you see different colors, or you just don't really want to believe it.

i personally find the factory setting to be very pleasing, and with a few notches of adjustments it's perfect for me. although i don't have an expensive equipment to measure it, but my own eyes are my own expensive equipment. i work in the visual effects motion picture industry, i look at images everyday to make sure CG look as close to live action as possible, that mean color, saturation, and levels. so i would say my eyes are more trained than the average consumers. to me this TV is pretty damn accurate right out of the box if you bump the backlight down a couple notches, unlike the ES6500 which was over-saturated out of the box. personally i like to enjoy my movies with high contrast and bright levels, so at home i choose to bump up the backlight and up the dynamic contrast, because that's why i paid the few extra hundred bucks for, for the extra contrast and micro dimming. and it looks the most visually pleasing to me.
post #12915 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

To each his own I guess.

Zombie - - not sure why the hatred of the "Movie" setting. I was never a "fan" of the "Movie" setting and exclusively used the "Standard" setting until the latest firmware updates.

Now, default "Movie" with some tweaks is fantastic! So, I do not know if it's your setup, cable or satellite provider, or if you are not using "default" settings that would render such a horrible setting on "Movie."

It's as close as I can get to "Standard" with some benefits and some negatives. Much better detail, less black crushing and a very vivid, superlative "color" picture. Some flashlighting (really only visible when the screen is going from dark to the next scene) and a very little clouding - - but not on the picture - - really only in transition.

As a long time "Standard" devotee - - I now find that the the PQ is a little harsh (it's a cross between Kentucky Blue Grass and California Sensimilla) and that "Movie," for the first time, even for sports, is my favorite. Go figure.
post #12916 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

Ok, I spill the dirty secret. The Sharp Elite was reported in last year's shootout to have bad color tracking. This means that you can calibrate the 100% saturation to perfection, the below 100% saturation points are way off, in a big way.
The big VT50 fan who wrote in this thread - sorry, forgot the user name, getting old- also said the Elite is excellent , apart from color tracking.

This gives me some satisfaction. About two years ago, almost nobody was checking color tracking. I had a Sharp Aquos top model (not Elite, but probably close), and with the aid of another users excel file, I measured that color tracking on my Aquos was way off. When I reported it, some comments were my meter must have been off. Way off, my xxxx.

Back to the ES8000: color tracking is looking good on this babe.

What I am being told by a reputable, professional calibrator is that Sharp has the worst color of the major Brands. He recommends not to buy Sharp.
post #12917 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

Zombie - - not sure why the hatred of the "Movie" setting. I was never a "fan" of the "Movie" setting and exclusively used the "Standard" setting until the latest firmware updates.

Now, default "Movie" with some tweaks is fantastic! So, I do not know if it's your setup, cable or satellite provider, or if you are not using "default" settings that would render such a horrible setting on "Movie."

It's as close as I can get to "Standard" with some benefits and some negatives. Much better detail, less black crushing and a very vivid, superlative "color" picture. Some flashlighting (really only visible when the screen is going from dark to the next scene) and a very little clouding - - but not on the picture - - really only in transition.

As a long time "Standard" devotee - - I now find that the the PQ is a little harsh (it's a cross between Kentucky Blue Grass and California Sensimilla) and that "Movie," for the first time, even for sports, is my favorite. Go figure.

Its not really MOVIE mode any longer if you severely modify the settings. Am I correct? The term MOVIE is only the placeholder for your custom settings. No?
post #12918 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by howzz1854 View Post

it's not just Cnet, others too,
http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/samsung-ue55es8000-ue46es8000-201205301790.htm?page=Calibration

either you see different colors, or you just don't really want to believe it.

i personally find the factory setting to be very pleasing, and with a few notches of adjustments it's perfect for me. although i don't have an expensive equipment to measure it, but my own eyes are my own expensive equipment. i work in the visual effects motion picture industry, i look at images everyday to make sure CG look as close to live action as possible, that mean color, saturation, and levels. so i would say my eyes are more trained than the average consumers. to me this TV is pretty damn accurate right out of the box if you bump the backlight down a couple notches, unlike the ES6500 which was over-saturated out of the box. personally i like to enjoy my movies with high contrast and bright levels, so at home i choose to bump up the backlight and up the dynamic contrast, because that's why i paid the few extra hundred bucks for, for the extra contrast and micro dimming. and it looks the most visually pleasing to me.

I think our eyes must work the same.
post #12919 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by uclabruinn View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by galonzo View Post

I went ahead and did some testing on this setting myself this evening (after plugging in 10k's movie settings, spot on btw, can’t thank the calibrators enough), and I can say without a doubt that film-based bluray content (and possibly all 24p content) should be played using the "Clear" setting; fans of any other setting (perhaps besides anyone who has a custom setting close to Clear) should at least hear me out about how I arrived at this conclusion:

The opening scene of The Dark Knight is a true, reference IMAX (i.e. no letterbox, full 1080p resolution) transfer, and it is a slow zoom to the all-glass building that gets a window busted. During the zoom (and if you're set to Standard or Smooth), you'll see some rows of windows on the building behind the one being zoomed in on sort of smear, then the same thing will happen to the vertical lines of the decorative rooftop caps in the foreground. Finally, just before the zoom ends, one of the windows is a vent (very obvious) that will show some jumpiness of the vent lines. If you're set to Clear (or a close custom setting), or even “Off”, none of this happens.

Of course, if this doesn't bother you, or if you think it's a small price to pay for the overall look you get with Standard, then by all means, proceed with your favorite setting. I'm only sharing my findings and informing for the sake of anyone who hasn't yet been able to decide on a setting for AMP, or for anyone else curious.

Of course, as 10k pointed out, good animation content can look amazing with a setting of Smooth, so needless to say, it really depends on the source and material being viewed.

Thanks Galonzo for the awesome explanation of amp and your research. I followed your suggestion and totally agree.
Btw, I am back to 10k's settings and they are definitely the best. I feel OCD with all this switching back and forth :-) Thanks 10k and all the calibrators for all your work!

Glad I could shed some light on this setting, this is some serious scientific stuff trying to figure out the ins and outs of these settings wink.gif I also forgot to note (it was late), I did some extensive testing with the AMP presets in conjunction with the "LED Motion Plus" setting as well; trying each one with it both on or off with the same scene, and it had no effect either way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

...Galonzo, an amazing AMP test which I just ran. I appreciate the tip. I have been in Standard amp since June (knowing some anomolies at times) and loving it with Clear having been my 2nd choice. On fw 1046.2 i think Clear actually is improved and closer to the overall characteristics of Standard that I love. In standard amp on Dark Knight,a section of the buildng on the left of "subject with window burst and vent" in the opening pan actually does a Michael Jackson move from Thriller as well as some moulding on the building to the right of subject..and of course the vent is "active" as well. Clear setting definately settles those items down. I have never seen such a severe example of the difference. That all said, I'm still not sure that for my overall viewing that I like clear over standard. I am just at a loss of terminology to explain the "effect"....In Standard amp, something just seems a stitch more lifelike and "being there" under the "hd, window to the world" thing...if that makes sense. I really need to test thi more. I saw less obvious difference in 1080i from FIOS but need to experiment as well... Nice find my man!!! ...and glad you liked the dogs...they just are "in my room" when that commercial comes on..freaky how some commercials are demo material. So, this is another lil wrinkle that shows how fw 1046(47) improved pic performance.

Blade, I was with you, I was using Standard AMP setting at first as well, it just seemed to preserve the detail a little more as a whole. I also saw the other anomaies you describe, but only noted the more obvious (or easier to spot/describe) ones. Regarding 1080i sources, I haven't really looked into the effects there, my main concern was the awesome film transfers we get to enjoy biggrin.gif Agreed that there are some demo-worth commercials from time to time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freelemur View Post

Did you post your calibrations and if so, how far back were they? Thank you sir!

Blade's Standard settings can be found in the spreadsheet in my sig (not from a calibration, so they can be found in the "Master" or "65" sheets), unless he was referring to his more recent Movie mode settings that I believe he arrived at on the advice of Ricoflashback?

Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie1210 View Post

Movie mode just needs to be thrown out.

A properly calibrated picture is somewhat of an acquired taste; you'll make the switch sooner or later, you'll see wink.gif In all seriousness, you'll get the most amount of detail when you have a properly calibrated greyscale, as the color information of the picture is miniscule compared to the picture information found in the luminance channels (at least this is what I've learned over the years here).
post #12920 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie1210 View Post

Its not really MOVIE mode any longer if you severely modify the settings. Am I correct? The term MOVIE is only the placeholder for your custom settings. No?

No. Microdimming is disabled in Movie mode so it is more than just a placeholder for custom setting.
post #12921 of 15261
Sounds kinda like a touch of snobbery, to me.

Sorry.
post #12922 of 15261
Thanks. After having just received it, it went completely completely crashed on me. I had noticed some banding issues with it but they didn't appear to be as egregious as most 65 owners post here. Perhaps, I just didn't have it long enough to really determine the extent. As to the reported flashlighting issues, again, I didn't have it long enough to be able to make a determination. So,...based on the gurus here I'm strongly considering changing to the 6o even though I became spoiled by the size of the 65 - It fit perfect in my unit.
post #12923 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie1210 View Post

Sounds kinda like a touch of snobbery, to me.

Sorry.

Not snobbery. You asked if there was a difference and I answered your question. Plain and simple.
post #12924 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by galonzo View Post

I went ahead and did some testing on this setting myself this evening (after plugging in 10k's movie settings, spot on btw, can’t thank the calibrators enough), and I can say without a doubt that film-based bluray content (and possibly all 24p content) should be played using the "Clear" setting; fans of any other setting (perhaps besides anyone who has a custom setting close to Clear) should at least hear me out about how I arrived at this conclusion:

The opening scene of The Dark Knight is a true, reference IMAX (i.e. no letterbox, full 1080p resolution) transfer, and it is a slow zoom to the all-glass building that gets a window busted. During the zoom (and if you're set to Standard or Smooth), you'll see some rows of windows on the building behind the one being zoomed in on sort of smear, then the same thing will happen to the vertical lines of the decorative rooftop caps in the foreground. Finally, just before the zoom ends, one of the windows is a vent (very obvious) that will show some jumpiness of the vent lines. If you're set to Clear (or a close custom setting), or even “Off”, none of this happens.

Of course, if this doesn't bother you, or if you think it's a small price to pay for the overall look you get with Standard, then by all means, proceed with your favorite setting. I'm only sharing my findings and informing for the sake of anyone who hasn't yet been able to decide on a setting for AMP, or for anyone else curious.

Of course, as 10k pointed out, good animation content can look amazing with a setting of Smooth, so needless to say, it really depends on the source and material being viewed.

Blade, the dogs look great!

That shot in The Dark Knight is a motion torture test, and exactly what I use to test motion on a set.
post #12925 of 15261
If cinema black and other PQ improvements end up in the EVO kit Samsung will have my money... If it doesn't I'm not paying 300+ for a few UI changes and other smart hub rubbish.

1000
post #12926 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie1210 View Post

Its not really MOVIE mode any longer if you severely modify the settings. Am I correct? The term MOVIE is only the placeholder for your custom settings. No?

Yes and no. How's that for a political answer!

For the most part, the "Movie" settings I use are "Default" - - but I've made the following changes (but not "Custom" color changes or White Balance, etc.)

Backlight - 10
Contrast - 90
Brightness - 45
Sharpness - 35 (down to 20, sometimes - - I just like a sharper image - - like "Standard" but with more shadow detail)

Color Space - Auto
Color Tone - Standard
AMP - Standard or Clear - - currently Standard but either one works for me

No other processing. Everything else is "Default."

This has yielded a great picture on my Sammy 65" in conjunction with my video processing (Marvell QDEO) via my Pioneer SC65 AVR.

This may be simple and not calibrated but I assure you, the picture is drop dead gorgeous.

This is also a dramatic change from the "Default" settings that were initially on the TV when I purchased it back in August, 2012. (At least the picture rendered from the settings)

P.S. - one important thing I forgot to add and it has worked for my PQ - - namely, I did a "Picture Reset" after the firmware update (not total reset, just "Picture Reset" - "Movie") and then did my tweaks. I forgot to do this with the 1047 update and initially, I was thinking that gee, 1046 looked better. I know other folks have said this does nothing for them (Picture Reset) - but I find that it has helped me after firmware updates.
Edited by Ricoflashback - 2/27/13 at 12:04pm
post #12927 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

Not snobbery. You asked if there was a difference and I answered your question. Plain and simple.

Not directed at you or anyone in particular

I've been around some other audio forums for a long time. I just pick up on patterns. smile.gif
post #12928 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000 View Post

If cinema black and other PQ improvements end up in the EVO kit Samsung will have my money... If it doesn't I'm not paying 300+ for a few UI changes and other smart hub rubbish.

1000

Does the ES8000 really need cinema black after the update? Returned mine prior to the update so I never got a chance to see the improvements it made.
post #12929 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by howzz1854 View Post

it's not just Cnet, others too,
http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/samsung-ue55es8000-ue46es8000-201205301790.htm?page=Calibration

either you see different colors, or you just don't really want to believe it.

i personally find the factory setting to be very pleasing, and with a few notches of adjustments it's perfect for me. although i don't have an expensive equipment to measure it, but my own eyes are my own expensive equipment. i work in the visual effects motion picture industry, i look at images everyday to make sure CG look as close to live action as possible, that mean color, saturation, and levels. so i would say my eyes are more trained than the average consumers. to me this TV is pretty damn accurate right out of the box if you bump the backlight down a couple notches, unlike the ES6500 which was over-saturated out of the box. personally i like to enjoy my movies with high contrast and bright levels, so at home i choose to bump up the backlight and up the dynamic contrast, because that's why i paid the few extra hundred bucks for, for the extra contrast and micro dimming. and it looks the most visually pleasing to me.

Pre calibration color on my 60ES8000. Movie mode, color Space Auto. Not all sets are the same.

post #12930 of 15261
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkcohen View Post

Pre calibration color on my 60ES8000. Movie mode, color Space Auto. Not all sets are the same.


sounds like you got a lesser than average set, sorry to hear that.
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