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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 441

post #13201 of 15334
Quote:
Originally Posted by pong View Post

Tbris.I couln't get Amazon to price match Buydig saying they don't have the Tab bundled with the Tv.How did you do it? Tried a couple of times.

That concern (the free Tablet) had occurred to me when I called in the first time. The price match people weren't in when I called at first, I was told to call back. I guess the guy I spoke with wasn't as thorough as the one you spoke with. I got the credit in my account today.
Edited by tbris84 - 3/5/13 at 4:11pm
post #13202 of 15334
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hamenoskili View Post

Hello all, new to this whole calibration process, anyway I convinced myself to take the plunge and buy some supplies. (I1 pro with calman5 basic) maybe upgrade later. I have a question, when you guys measure your 10pt greyscale do you measure 10-100, or 90-10 then 100. I read you should do 90-10 then 100 and it seems to be giving me better results? Thanks for any input.

Sent from my RAZR MAXX HD - Tapatalk

I'm assuming you're talking about measuring and setting 2PT White Balance and then 10PT White Balance. You don't set just 10PT White Balance the way you've described. What I do:

*Set 2PT White Balance (Gain) at 80%
*Set 2PT White Balance (Offset) at 20%
*Repeat above until you don't need to make any adjustments, then move on and...
*Set 10PT White Balance Interval in this order: 10,9,7,6,5,4,3,1

You'll notice I don't set 10PT White Balance for interval 8 and 2 because I already did it in the 2PT White Balance. Also, keep checking the readings around what you just changed because it could cause the ones around it to need to be set again.

Once you've done all that and cycle through the same steps mulitple times to make sure it's where you want it, then you'll move on to other things, like color (CMS, not the actual Color/Tint setting).
Edited by Jestered - 3/5/13 at 5:34pm
post #13203 of 15334
Thanks for the reply jestered, yes that was what I was talking about, my original 2 point was 80/30, would it be bad if I set my 2 pt to 100/30? Also, you're settings are great on my also 65es8000.

Sent from my RAZR MAXX HD - Tapatalk
post #13204 of 15334
Quote:
Originally Posted by PiratesCove View Post

I had vertical line issue, its a circuit contact problem in the Panel. Only fix is Panel replacement or exchange.

Samsung will try to replace the panel if they have extras (they are older/used) after 3 failed fixes or the inability to order a Panel, they may offer a refund or exchange.

Samsung technician came today. They check the TV and said the problem is with the panel. They also said they will replace the panel with the new one. smile.gifsmile.gif They will call us back once the panel becomes available. I hope they make it soon as it is really annoying watching TV with all those lines .

So you had the same problem as mine? Did they replace your panel with new one or they totally replace your HDTV?
post #13205 of 15334
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

Wonder if its purposeful to release the smaller screens without all the issues early for all the reviews that will get published....then by the time the big 65's come out with problems all the reviews are written and done for the model.

I owned the 46" ES7500 and the panel uniformity was horrible. I keep hearing the rumor that the smaller screen sizes are better but that's not the case at all. That's all it is - a rumor. I also tried several D series LCD panels and they were also awful - all 46". All size Samsung panels suffer from uniformity issues - it's not just the larger ones.
post #13206 of 15334
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hamenoskili View Post

Thanks for the reply jestered, yes that was what I was talking about, my original 2 point was 80/30, would it be bad if I set my 2 pt to 100/30? Also, you're settings are great on my also 65es8000.

Sent from my RAZR MAXX HD - Tapatalk

I don't think it's neccessarily "bad" where you set the 2PT WB. I know it's suggested a lot to use 30 and 80, but I think it really depends on your initial low end readings. For me, 10% is the hardest to get set decently. The best I could get it was by setting the 2PT offset at 20%, which forced/caused 10% to be set as good as I could get it. The low end (10% and 20%) are the hardest for me to set because a single -1/+1 change makes such a drastic impact, so it's hard to get those dialed in. Using 2PT offset at 20% put it in a good place and gave me a decent reading at 10%. The high end is much more precise, so it doesn't really matter what I use up there to set the 2PT gain, because I can dial those in using 10PT adjustments. You'll have to do your own comparisons on what works better using the low/dark scale areas.

Basically, I don't think there's really an absolute position that you MUST use to set the offest and gain. If you set the offset at 30 and notice that 20 and 10 is bad and you cannot get it any better using 10PT, then try setting offset at 20, which should get it real close and also pull in 10 so that it's better. At least that's how it worked out for me.
Edited by Jestered - 3/5/13 at 6:59pm
post #13207 of 15334
pic1.jpg 72k .jpg file pic2.jpg 126k .jpg file

Here are a couple screen shots I took after the report. To be blunt, I think my RGB levels are good, but as far as my CIE Chart and gamut luminnce go, I'm not sure if those numbers are good or bad. Sorry for the "unspecificness" of the charts, I'm still getting used to this program and for some reason it wont let me load a previous workflow (maybe cant do that in the basic version). my gamma reading was a 2.19. The settings I used are as follows for anyone of interest:

Picture Mode - Movie
Backlight - 9
Contrast - 100
Brightness - 43
Sharpness - 20
Color - 52
Tint - 50

Adjust Picture - Screen Fit
Dynamic Contrast - Off
Black Tone - Off
Flesh Tone - 0

Color Space - Custom
Red - 55,1,0
Green - 6,50,10
Blue - 0,7,52
Yellow - 55,46,10
Cyan - 0,50,52
Majenta - 50,8,47

White Balance
R,G,B Offset - 25,25,25
R,G,B Gain - 41,28,18

10pt White Balance
1. 0,-1,-2
2. 1,0,0
3. 0,0,0
4. 1,1,1
5-10. - 0,0,0

Gamma +2
Black Enhancer - Off
Color Tone - Warm 2
Digital Noise Filter - Off
Mpeg Noise Filter - Off
Auto Motion Plus - Clear
LED Motion Plus - Off

My RGB levels were well under 0 when my gamma was set to 0, even +1 for that matter.
Sony Bluray (BDP-S780) connected to a Pionner SC-1222k with all video processing and enhancements off.
HDMI from Pioneer to Television.
Any inputs or advice would greatly be appreciated, like I said, I'm extremely new to this! Thanks Guys!!
post #13208 of 15334
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hamenoskili View Post

pic1.jpg 72k .jpg file pic2.jpg 126k .jpg file

Here are a couple screen shots I took after the report. To be blunt, I think my RGB levels are good, but as far as my CIE Chart and gamut luminnce go, I'm not sure if those numbers are good or bad. Sorry for the "unspecificness" of the charts, I'm still getting used to this program and for some reason it wont let me load a previous workflow (maybe cant do that in the basic version). my gamma reading was a 2.19. The settings I used are as follows for anyone of interest:

Picture Mode - Movie
Backlight - 9
Contrast - 100
Brightness - 43
Sharpness - 20
Color - 52
Tint - 50

Adjust Picture - Screen Fit
Dynamic Contrast - Off
Black Tone - Off
Flesh Tone - 0

Color Space - Custom
Red - 55,1,0
Green - 6,50,10
Blue - 0,7,52
Yellow - 55,46,10
Cyan - 0,50,52
Majenta - 50,8,47

White Balance
R,G,B Offset - 25,25,25
R,G,B Gain - 41,28,18

10pt White Balance
1. 0,-1,-2
2. 1,0,0
3. 0,0,0
4. 1,1,1
5-10. - 0,0,0

Gamma +2
Black Enhancer - Off
Color Tone - Warm 2
Digital Noise Filter - Off
Mpeg Noise Filter - Off
Auto Motion Plus - Clear
LED Motion Plus - Off

My RGB levels were well under 0 when my gamma was set to 0, even +1 for that matter.
Sony Bluray (BDP-S780) connected to a Pionner SC-1222k with all video processing and enhancements off.
HDMI from Pioneer to Television.
Any inputs or advice would greatly be appreciated, like I said, I'm extremely new to this! Thanks Guys!!

What made you set Color at 52 and Gamma at +2?
post #13209 of 15334
Hi jestered, I am away from my TV right now so I don't exactly know the correct term for it but during initial setup the calibration disc gave me the screen with the flashing lines and said to put TV in (I believe RGB mode for testing), so I set my TV to blue only and the flashing boxes seemed more invisible at 52 than at 50. 50 made the black around the boxes seem darker than 52. As far as my gamma goes, When I did my initial 10pt white balance readings, my RGB were well below 0, I tried gamma at +1, still too low, gamma at +2, gave me the better readings, anything I could do to get me RGB values closer to 0 without turning up my gamma to +2?

Sent from my RAZR MAXX HD - Tapatalk
post #13210 of 15334
It's show and tell time

I didn't have a decent player and audio setup since I got the 55ES8000. So in the last month or so, I added a player, receiver and 5.1 speakers. A lot of choices were WAF influenced, but jokes apart, aesthetics are also very important to me.

I started with a bluray player and bought a Pioneer BDP-150 based on a review in AVForums that the player was quiet in operation. But it was not quiet at all, so I returned it to the shop.
Not wanting the same problem again, I went from budget to top class and bought an Oppo BDP-103.
Next was to get a slimline receiver since I have a space constraint. I found a good visual match for the Oppo in the new entry model form Cambridge Audio Azur 351R:


I put the player and receiver in a rather small enclosed space, and player and receiver were getting warm in operation, although not extreme. So I added two quiet 140mm PC fans driven by a USB connection on the Oppo. The fans really cool down the system and cannot be heard:


Next were the speakers, being the focus of WAF. I think we got a good compromise with a 5.1 GoldenEar system consisting of a passive LCR soundbar and separate surround speakers. I found good reviews on the web for the GoldenEar
http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/article/test-report-goldenear-technology-3d-array-ultra-high-performance-soundbar-system
For subwoofer I kept a B&W ASW608 which I had already.
Here is the Samsung with the GoldenEar soundbar. The Samsung was mounted at eye height when sitting down in the couch, in order to avoid off axis picture deterioration:


I am quite happy with the system, but I have to optimize receiver settings a bit.
Here are the picture files in more detail:
AVS Oppo-CambridgeAudio.JPG 1440k .JPG file
AVS CoolingFans.JPG 1696k .JPG file
AVS GoldenEar.JPG 1728k .JPG file
Edited by turboman123 - 3/6/13 at 2:39am
post #13211 of 15334
Turbo, nice setup! Your room pic loot like a magazine ad! I'm jealous of that view. Good thinking on the USB fans, I may need to steal that idea...
post #13212 of 15334
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

It's show and tell time

I didn't have a decent player and audio setup since I got the 55ES8000. So in the last month or so, I added a player, receiver and 5.1 speakers. A lot of choices were WAF influenced, but jokes apart, aesthetics are also very important to me.

I started with a bluray player and bought a Pioneer BDP-150 based on a review in AVForums that the player was quiet in operation. But it was not quiet at all, so I returned it to the shop.
Not wanting the same problem again, I went from budget to top class and bought an Oppo BDP-103.
Next was to get a slimline receiver since I have a space constraint. I found a good visual match for the Oppo in the new entry model form Cambridge Audio Azur 351R:


I put the player and receiver in a rather small enclosed space, and player and receiver were getting warm in operation, although not extreme. So I added two quiet 140mm PC fans driven by a USB connection on the Oppo. The fans really cool down the system and cannot be heard:


Next were the speakers, being the focus of WAF. I think we got a good compromise with a 5.1 GoldenEar system consisting of a passive LCR soundbar and separate surround speakers. I found good reviews on the web for the GoldenEar
http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/article/test-report-goldenear-technology-3d-array-ultra-high-performance-soundbar-system
For subwoofer I kept a B&W ASW608 which I had already.
Here is the Samsung with the GoldenEar soundbar. The Samsung was mounted at eye height when sitting down in the couch, in order to avoid off axis picture deterioration:


I am quite happy with the system, but I have to optimize receiver settings a bit.
Here are the picture files in more detail:
AVS Oppo-CambridgeAudio.JPG 1440k .JPG file
AVS CoolingFans.JPG 1696k .JPG file
AVS GoldenEar.JPG 1728k .JPG file

Love the setup Turboman...its exactly my style of rig. Clean and condensed. Do you live in Japan , i cant remember!!!!
post #13213 of 15334
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hamenoskili View Post

Hi jestered, I am away from my TV right now so I don't exactly know the correct term for it but during initial setup the calibration disc gave me the screen with the flashing lines and said to put TV in (I believe RGB mode for testing), so I set my TV to blue only and the flashing boxes seemed more invisible at 52 than at 50. 50 made the black around the boxes seem darker than 52. As far as my gamma goes, When I did my initial 10pt white balance readings, my RGB were well below 0, I tried gamma at +1, still too low, gamma at +2, gave me the better readings, anything I could do to get me RGB values closer to 0 without turning up my gamma to +2?

Sent from my RAZR MAXX HD - Tapatalk
Hey, I had to set my gamma to +2 in movie mode also. Regarding the color setting, since our TV has a full color management system you should just leave Color at 50 and instead adjust each color individually in the color management system. Also, FYI check out your black and white clipping, and color clipping. You will find that even at contrast 100 you can also increase Green Gain (and then balance R and B after) to get extra contrast without clipping. Standard mode isnt so lucky, max contrast there seems to be in the 70-80 range.
post #13214 of 15334
The first review of the F8000 is out -> http://www.whathifi.com/review/ue55f8000

One interesting thing is in the picture of the settings it looks like "black enhancer" has been renamed "cinema black". Leads me to believe that what we already have is most of what cinema black was in the first place.

Also thought this was interesting:
Quote:
The picture performance is quite a departure from last year’s range: the 2012 Samsung screens aimed to delivered punchy colour, exciting contrasts and an overall impressive and eye-popping performance.

In contrast, this new 2013 screen is a much more grown-up affair: it’s calmed down that burst of exuberance, and might seem subdued at first glance. But look deeper, and the UE55F8000 serves up a more natural palette and composed performance.
post #13215 of 15334
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

It's show and tell time

I didn't have a decent player and audio setup since I got the 55ES8000. So in the last month or so, I added a player, receiver and 5.1 speakers. A lot of choices were WAF influenced, but jokes apart, aesthetics are also very important to me.

I started with a bluray player and bought a Pioneer BDP-150 based on a review in AVForums that the player was quiet in operation. But it was not quiet at all, so I returned it to the shop.
Not wanting the same problem again, I went from budget to top class and bought an Oppo BDP-103.
Next was to get a slimline receiver since I have a space constraint. I found a good visual match for the Oppo in the new entry model form Cambridge Audio Azur 351R:


I put the player and receiver in a rather small enclosed space, and player and receiver were getting warm in operation, although not extreme. So I added two quiet 140mm PC fans driven by a USB connection on the Oppo. The fans really cool down the system and cannot be heard:


Next were the speakers, being the focus of WAF. I think we got a good compromise with a 5.1 GoldenEar system consisting of a passive LCR soundbar and separate surround speakers. I found good reviews on the web for the GoldenEar
http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/article/test-report-goldenear-technology-3d-array-ultra-high-performance-soundbar-system
For subwoofer I kept a B&W ASW608 which I had already.
Here is the Samsung with the GoldenEar soundbar. The Samsung was mounted at eye height when sitting down in the couch, in order to avoid off axis picture deterioration:


I am quite happy with the system, but I have to optimize receiver settings a bit.
Here are the picture files in more detail:
AVS Oppo-CambridgeAudio.JPG 1440k .JPG file
AVS CoolingFans.JPG 1696k .JPG file
AVS GoldenEar.JPG 1728k .JPG file

WOW !!! Beautiful!!! Forget about the pizza and Oban Scotch in Denver. How about Oban and Sushi in Hong Kong!
post #13216 of 15334
Can someone tell me where the date of manufacture is located. I know where the panel version is. I just picked up a 60 and would like to know where the date is.
thanks,Dean
post #13217 of 15334
Quote:
Originally Posted by abnrngr1986 View Post

Can someone tell me where the date of manufacture is located. I know where the panel version is. I just picked up a 60 and would like to know where the date is.
thanks,Dean

Located on the back of the tv on the mid lower right hand side on a white sticker with the serial number.
post #13218 of 15334
Is Samsung going to discontinue production of the ES8000 model after the 2013 F8000 new tv
post #13219 of 15334
thanks i found it, sept of 2012. Seems like this set sat around for a while. I just bought it a few days ago
post #13220 of 15334
Quote:
Originally Posted by abnrngr1986 View Post

thanks i found it, sept of 2012. Seems like this set sat around for a while. I just bought it a few days ago

Where did you get it? I bought one on Friday at Best Buy and it says it was manufactured in November 2012. It had been ordered in from a warehouse somewhere as they didn't have any in stock.
post #13221 of 15334
Nice job Turbo on the space conservation!

Those look like Nexus fans? Did you manage to get them to turn on automatically when the receiver would be on?
post #13222 of 15334
Nice setup Turbo! I did the dual fans on my Pioneer Elite too. My stuff is in the room behind the wall the TV is on, so I wasn't really concerned with how it all looked (my drums and guitars are in that room). I simply put the two fans on top of the receiver where the vents are and I have a temperature sensor that can be set to turn the fans on and off depending on the heat coming from the vents. I ended up not really using that temp sensor though. It's there, but I set it so low that the fans are always on when the receiver is on. My power console is set to power on and off the fans when the receiver is turned on and off.

I can't tell in the picture, but make sure that the fans are set to blow air out of the enclosure, not to blow air in the direction of your components. Every time I set up something similar for a friend they always think the fans should be blowing air into the receiver/enclosure instead of pulling air out of it.

Beautiful view too!
post #13223 of 15334
Gorgeous view turbo and great setup!
post #13224 of 15334
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

Love the setup Turboman...its exactly my style of rig. Clean and condensed. Do you live in Japan , i cant remember!!!!
Very tasteful Turbo. Man Cave? We don't need no steenking Man Cave. But where are the front speakers? All I see is the sound bar. Or did WAF veto the separate speaker idea? It looks like your TV is wall mounted, I don't see the stand.
post #13225 of 15334
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

WOW !!! Beautiful!!! Forget about the pizza and Oban Scotch in Denver. How about Oban and Sushi in Hong Kong!

That is a wonderfully clean setup, well done !

1000
post #13226 of 15334
Quote:
Originally Posted by pilgrimpete View Post

Where did you get it? I bought one on Friday at Best Buy and it says it was manufactured in November 2012. It had been ordered in from a warehouse somewhere as they didn't have any in stock.
i got mine from amazon
post #13227 of 15334
I have a question with regard to Apple TV setup... I experimented with different HDMI settings last night and found a few interesting things.

When set to Auto the TV greys out HDMI level and locks it at normal.... High does the same thing but low sets it to low but allows you to change it to normal on the TV itself which I found provides the best overall black levels and detail.

Anyone else played around with the same setting?
post #13228 of 15334
right On Turbo, that PC fans to USB i will do for my system, keep forgetting to add dust grills like u have on yours for my PC.Where u buy 140mm size grills? do they have 180mm grills like urs cause i have a few 180's originally was tobe on my antec case

what are you using on the opposite side for dust collection? clothes? or another set of the same grills?.
post #13229 of 15334
To my fellow calibrators... I'm totally happy with my last results, but was looking over my readings today and am wondering if I should do some things to get my gamma (BT.1886) better. I've never done anything to intentionally modify my gamma curve, so it's basically sitting where my grayscale calibration left it. I don't think it's bad and it's along the right curve, but if I can get it better, why not?

I just started reading up on how to calibrate gamma and it sounds pretty simple using the 10PT adjustments, but was wondering if any of you made 10PT adjustments for gamma curve and how difficult it is.

Also, I got to thinking about the green Gain that some of us are using, and how much more contrast we're getting because of it, and began to wonder why not lower the Offset for green also until it starts clipping? Wouldn't we be able to get even more contrast out of our TVs by doing that?
post #13230 of 15334
Quote:
Originally Posted by digimat View Post

I have a question with regard to Apple TV setup... I experimented with different HDMI settings last night and found a few interesting things.

When set to Auto the TV greys out HDMI level and locks it at normal.... High does the same thing but low sets it to low but allows you to change it to normal on the TV itself which I found provides the best overall black levels and detail.

Anyone else played around with the same setting?
Are you using ATV3 (I assume)? I don't know where your are going to change the HDMI settings?
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