Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 458

Mavinwow, to get those white balance numbers a little lower, try raising your gamma to 2 and try again, that should definitely get your RGB closer to 0 without those crazy numbers.

Sent from my RAZR MAXX HD - Tapatalk

46fl is about 161 candelas (161Y). Here's a web calculator which should help - http://www.translatorscafe.com/cafe/units-converter/luminance/calculator/foot-lambert-%5BfL%5D-to-candela-per-square-meter-%5Bcd/m%5E2%5D/

The difference in our backlight settings that you observe is because I and others here have observed that Movie mode does not clip, even at 100 contrast. So in white balance you can increase green gain for extra contrast, effectively setting contrast at something like "120".

Blade.... It is a great deal considering what the original MSRP was. For those who get one with minimal banding that they can live with, it's a steal. However, I would tell anyone who watches a lot of sports to really test it out as that is where even minimal banding can drive one crazy. For movies and regular tv.... It may not be as big if an issue and certainly one someone may be willing to overlook to get into that size class at that price.

Finally, something we can agree on.

All good Cmay91472.

I wish I could share the 1046.2 fw in some way shape or form. I'll sit tight on that one for a while as we watch things iron out during the model year transition.

Thanks for the replies. I dont understand how you can max out your green gain to 50. I get massive picture distortion when I do that on my set.

Im also befuddled on why I would have to set my gamma to 2 or that I need such high offsets if this is infact incorrect. When I flip 10p on/off with those settings, all it does is brighten up the picture some and bring out more shadow detail.

It seems like HCFR measures gamma independently of greyscale, whereas Calman uses xyY in one dE calculation.

Sigh, still lots to learn

Everyone's experience is different - - but my 65" with minimal banding is excellent for most sports. The only times it isn't as good is with hockey or golf & soccer - - but that can be an issue or not - - depending on the source signal.

What's funny is that I added a projector (BenQ short throw W1080ST) for movies (Cinemascope) primarily and was able to watch a hockey game this Saturday on the projector. No banding, of course, but I did notice that the coloration in the ice leads to white & black hues on the screen!

For basketball - - the Sammy set is incredible - - great clarity, color and sharpness. Same for football - - incredible picture.

So, like you are both saying, it has to do with your tolerance level for banding - - but I must say, if the price is a grand cheaper than what we bought it for - - I'd buy the set and make sure I have a good return policy in case it didn't work out. That's a heckuva discount!

Rico, banding on sports can be odd. Obviously hockey with fast pans on white/off white ice...... but I did notice on both my ES8000 and HX950 that while soccer can be another problem sport, football was not nearly an issue even though in theory it should band as well. Basketball seems to be fine for me as well. Baseball is extremely hit or miss for me. I was watching a Phillies spring training game and noticed nothing on camera pans, but I remember watching another game on MLB network (I think a WBC game the other day) and did notice minor banding on balls hit to right field, but not left field. Go figure.

I'm actually working on a revision to my settings based on some color clipping I'm observing in blue and magenta, I will probably end up with green gain in the high 30s or low 40s at the end of the day.
One way to think about grayscale vs gamma is to basically ignore gamma and just calibrate your 2pt to get grayscale to balance as much as you can. Then after that calibrate 10pt red & blue to get grayscale as close as you can. After that use the Gamma setting to get the curve as close to zero as you can. I didnt realise you were using Gamma=0, that is probably why you had to do such extreme 10pt adjustments. You will see in my movie mode settings that I had to do gamma=+2. Once you do gamma=+1 or +2 then use the green controls in 10pt adjustment to adjust the shape of the curve to your liking. After that go through 10pt again and adjust red and blue to get white balance (grayscale) back into balance.

Good luck and try to have fun

Oh, I thought you were using gamma +2 only because of the HTPC issues related to 0-255 output?

Maybe Ill set gamma to +2 and re-do my settings, although it seems like that would have the same end point?

I have to say, watching my settings today on broadcast TV, they look pretty darn good to me.

Id be curious if someone else with a 55 could pop them in and see how they look to them.
Edited by Mavinwow - 3/18/13 at 12:44pm

I thought it was due to HTPC but maybe its because on the 55" movie mode is gamma 2.4? Your results are the first from a different source I've seen on a 55" es8000 that has the same movie mode gamma behaviour that I have. Maybe I need to revise my post to remove that htpc explanation...

re: end point, yes you should get to the same place, but with less 10pt adjustment. The benefit being that your gamma response in-between the measurement points will be much smoother, the less 10pt adjustments you have, and you will have less chance of banding.

If I have time tonight I will try your settings out on my set and see how they measure.

Cool, thanks man. I'm getting up the motivation to run my calibrations again with +2 gamma. Some of our differences in gamma will likely be due to your gamma calculation being based on the BT1886 where Im using the power calculation with set gamma of 2.2.

I'll be testing these in about an hour (Hopefully )

After a bit of digging around and experimenting, I found the problem with



Thanks for the guidance.

I downloaded and installed Plex. When I try to add PMS using autodiscover, it doesn't find anything I have all the laptops on but, for some reason, Plex isn't detecting them. Any suggestions?

I also tried manually inputting the I.P. address. Nothing works????
Edited by Tarob - 3/18/13 at 2:07pm

Any comments on facing down the LED and tips for the delivery guy?

OK, so I played around some more. Gamme set to 2 seemed to overdue it, gamma 1 worked best to achieve a gamma of 2.2

So with Gamma set to 1:

Mode: Movie
Backlight: 13 (highly variable depending on environmental light and personal preference). Can use the eco-sensor here with a minimum backlight if you have fluctuating ambient light levels in your viewing environment. This is set for a medium/bright room with peak light output 51.
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 48
Sharpness: 15 (personal preference)
Color: 50
Tint: G51/R49 (not sure why, but this is what the blue mode tells me it should be)

Dynamic: Off or Low, never any higher
Black Tone: Off
Flesh: 0

Color Space: Custom (did not go through these again, will probably need tweeks)

Red: 48,3,0
Green: 7,51,0
Blue: 0,7,49
Yellow: 55,48,3
Cyan: 0,53,51
Magenta: 41,6,46

White Balance:
R-Offset: 22
G-Offset: 25
B-Offset: 25

R-Gain: 23
G-Gain: 24
B-Gain: 1

10p White Balance: On

1: 2, 0, -1
2: 3, 2, 1
3: 1, 1, 1
4: 0, -1, 0
5: 0, 2, -1
6: -1, -4, -2
7: -1, 0, -4
8: 0, -1, -2
9: -1, 0, -3
10: 0, 0, 0

Gamma: 1
Black Enhancer: Off (does nothing but crush blacks)

Color Tone: Warm 2
Noise Filters: Your preference, typically auto for cable TV, off for bluray
AMP: Clear, your preference
LED Motion: Off


Bumping up blue gain to 1 helped with some blue levels at peak white, but resulted in compensatory negative values 60-90. Overall though, much less extreme numbers! I will play around some more and need to re-do the colors but I was losing steam on this tonight

Parodielin, I got mine at HHgregg. Once I made the deal, they wheeled the box out from the back in vertical position, took serial #, 3 days later the truck pulled up, box was vertical nf strapped in, brought in, removed on vertical position and placed on stand (the table top stand was already on it ) I removed it after mounting on the table top arm and brackets. That's my only experience to speak from.

Mavinwow,
Skip the Tint calibration step. R/G Tint control is only for displays which dont have advanced Color Management Systems, which our ES8000's do have. Since we have CMS, any tint type adjustments are taken care of when you do your color calibration in the CMS. Also, by setting tint at 50/50 you will have a clean point of reference to compare your CMS settings against other users.

Your new settings are definitely going in the right direction. For us hobbyist DIY types its definitely an iterative process. I'm sure the pros can get the whole thing done to perfection in a few hrs

Yet another example of panel differences. If you bought the 65inch it comes preassembled with the stand and they keep the box vertical and just take the cover off. I don't think this is a tip worthy service --- of course if I lived in the middle of nowhere where they have to do a lot of crazy driving and heavy lifting to get it to you, then I'd probably feel differently....

Cool, thanks for all the help. Gonna take a break from calibrating for the night and watch the set Hopefully some folks can plug them in and see they look on their set.

Watching CNN right now looks pretty stunning.

Yea man, for all the potential process improvements which you will come to know as you put the hours into calibration and research, you are honestly probably already like 80-90% of the way there with what you have now. The problem is that with the knowledge that the last 10%-20% is within grasp, well you certainly cant just leave it on the table right?

I purchased the 55" version from Amazon. Two people delivered the TV and offered to take the box off, but I declined as I wanted to do it myself. I laid it flat, face down with the foam-ish wrap still covering it, and installed the stand myself. These TVs are so light that 1-person can do the job if you're very careful and have steady hands.

I did the exact same thing, only I laid it face down on a Fluffy Beach Towel on the kitchen counter.
It worked fine.

That's Right and were waiting for you two to get it Right.

It also seems like a lot of my 10p settings has to do with gamma power target, which I left at a default of 2.2. It seems like 10K and Jestered are using 1886 which is closer to 2.4 gamma (darker). If I fiddle with the gamma targets it drastically changes my greyscale curves. I might recalibrate with a higher target gamma. Yet one more variable! At least I understand now why my offsets were so high originally.

Does anyone know what Gamma settings are supposed to correlate to?

IE, What does gamma = 0 supposed to mean, 2.0? 2.2? 2.4?

Has anyone else had this weird screen on start up? there's sound but just this picture, switching it back off and on sorts it but it's happened a few times now

Hey Parodielin. Just a heads up but Amazon has the 65" back in stock. At the $2699 with Prime shipping.

EDIT: Spoke too soon its already gone! Geez, must have been just a few in stock.

That looks like a faulty main board. I'd give samsung a call if you are still under warranty. They should be able to swap it out pretty painlessly since you don't have a wall mount to deal with.

Marvellous . They won't touch the panel will they? Cheers

If it is the main, its as simple as popping the back off and replacing a card. Very similar to switching your video card in your computer if you've ever done that. Nothing to worry about.

Ok, nice one, thanks, think I'll give the retailer a call and have it looked at