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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 486

post #14551 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenee View Post

The thing you show in your picture is called a grounding block and is use to ground their cable from Lightening Strikes that the reason the are using the cold water pipe for Ground.

ok just making sure it should be there.
post #14552 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyLyons1977 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenee View Post

The thing you show in your picture is called a grounding block and is use to ground their cable from Lightening Strikes that the reason the are using the cold water pipe for Ground.

ok just making sure it should be there.

For FiOS service, your coax should be grounded at the ONT (the box that has the fiber in/Coax out, typically mounted outside); I wouldn't think having a second ground would harm anything, but I would eliminate it; just be sure there's a similar (green) wire to the ONT that is properly grounded.
post #14553 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by galonzo View Post

For FiOS service, your coax should be grounded at the ONT (the box that has the fiber in/Coax out, typically mounted outside); I wouldn't think having a second ground would harm anything, but I would eliminate it; just be sure there's a similar (green) wire to the ONT that is properly grounded.

Ok let me go check. I will take pictures. The ground I took a picture of is old looking and must of been here when the previous owners had Comcast.
post #14554 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyLyons1977 View Post

Ok let me go check. I will take pictures. The ground I took a picture of is old looking and must of been here when the previous owners had Comcast.


post #14555 of 16125
The grounding in this Picture is the only grounding block you NEED. Check to see how much solid cable can be connected from this point to the first splitter. In other words by pass the First Grounding block you showed grounded to the cold Water pipe. Its a connection that does not have to be there. The reason I am tell you this is that every place you have a splitter or splice that doesn't need to be there is Signal Loss.
post #14556 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenee View Post

The grounding in this Picture is the only grounding block you NEED. Check to see how much solid cable can be connected from this point to the first splitter.

about 12 feet of solid cable to the first splitter
post #14557 of 16125
The optimum that we are trying to achieve here is solid cable from point to point with the least amount of splitters, No Barrel (Splicers) connectors, and No Grounding blocks except the one that is at the Cable entrance to the home you showed in the Last Picture. I would like to see Solid Cable from the entrance point to where you see it split to the Modem and Tv.
post #14558 of 16125
Hi Guys, I wonder if you can advise.
Bought an Es8000 55" about 13 days ago, this Friday will be the 14th Day (Tommorow). I have been through two Es8000, both of which have had more 'torchlighting' than I am comfortable with (especially paying these kind of prices). The first one was returned with no problem. I picked up the second, tested it that night and found it to be worse than the first. I spoke to the store the next day for another exchange, who told me they had no more Es8000's left and would not be getting any more. I thus suggested a refund, however the store told me that as it was my second set, they could only give me credit note at best, or the option of an engineer coming out. An actual refund was not possible according to them. (Note: I bought the TV on my credit card so I may have some recourse)

Can they refuse me a refund?

They have also suggested that they 'may' get the F8000 on Friday. Since having two faulty Es8000, I am willing risking paying a bit more and finally getting a TV that works and looks good.

My question is this:
Are they trying to delay me so it goes over the 14 days (i.e by telling me that the F8000 didn't arrive and thus I am stuck with a faulty ES8000?

If the F8000 should arrive on Friday, would the make out a new reciept so that I have 14 days to test it in or am I likely to get stuck with that too if it turn out to be not so great?

Personally, I would rather have had my money back, and know that I have the control to wait, view the F8000 in the shop and then decide, than being forced into purchasing something I haven't even seen yet.

Am I being too cautious?
post #14559 of 16125
Yasmin, I don't know why they won't just credit back your card, you are within you return time. That Said. If push comes to shove, It sounds like you are going to purchase the F8000, why couldn't you take a credit note and apply it to the F8000. That would be the actual purchase time and date and looks like to me that would start a new purchase time and date from the time you submitted your credit note and the extra payment for the upcharge.
post #14560 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenee View Post

The optimum that we are trying to achieve here is solid cable from point to point with the least amount of splitters, No Barrel (Splicers) connectors, and No Grounding blocks except the one that is at the Cable entrance to the home you showed in the Last Picture. I would like to see Solid Cable from the entrance point to where you see it split to the Modem and Tv.

Only problems is that when the line hits the first splitter one line goes to the bedroom and the other to the living room.
post #14561 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyLyons1977 View Post

Only problems is that when the line hits the first splitter one line goes to the bedroom and the other to the living room.
Well sometimes it is what it is. I wish the splitter for the Modem was on the bedroom TV, But you just can't have everything now can Ya.
post #14562 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyLyons1977 View Post

Only problems is that when the line hits the first splitter one line goes to the bedroom and the other to the living room.
Dude I would go to Comcast or whoever those STBs came from and swap one or both of them out. Costs you nothing. I had a bad one of those once. The stupid thing wouldn't even turn on. Get outta the basement!
post #14563 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenee View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyLyons1977 View Post

Only problems is that when the line hits the first splitter one line goes to the bedroom and the other to the living room.
Well sometimes it is what it is. I wish the splitter for the Modem was on the bedroom TV, But you just can't have everything now can Ya.

Now, this is where my installer said the ideal situation for FiOS is to have the coax out of the ONT (Optical Network Terminal, again where the fiber is converted to coax) into a main splitter, then individual coax runs from there; but to especially have the router on its own run and, depending on the situation, one of the runs could be split two-ways one more time (provided the main splitter is split less than eight times, which mine is but everything has its own run). So maybe you could replace the first one with a three-way and run a fresh coax by itself for the router from there? This was part of the solution I worked out at my brother's place that cleared up his pixellation problem.
post #14564 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by galonzo View Post

Now, this is where my installer said the ideal situation for FiOS is to have the coax out of the ONT (Optical Network Terminal, again where the fiber is converted to coax) into a main splitter, then individual coax runs from there; but to especially have the router on its own run and, depending on the situation, one of the runs could be split two-ways one more time (provided the main splitter is split less than eight times, which mine is but everything has its own run). So maybe you could replace the first one with a three-way and run a fresh coax by itself for the router from there? This was part of the solution I worked out at my brother's place that cleared up his pixellation problem.

I think I got what your saying. Lets see how it goes between tonight and tomorrow.
post #14565 of 16125
I just got the sharp 70le857. Let me just say that it has 0 vertical bands. Even while watching hockey. It does however have some pretty horendous flashlighting.
post #14566 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by fiddler11 View Post

I just got the sharp 70le857. Let me just say that it has 0 vertical bands. Even while watching hockey. It does however have some pretty horendous flashlighting.
I assume you are going to take it back then. This TV doesn't have a flashlighting problem, but some people complain of vertical banding. It depends on the panel and how anal you are about noticing it. I have rarely seen it and my wife has never mentioned it (I never told her what it was).
post #14567 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebignewt View Post

I assume you are going to take it back then. This TV doesn't have a flashlighting problem, but some people complain of vertical banding. It depends on the panel and how anal you are about noticing it. I have rarely seen it and my wife has never mentioned it (I never told her what it was).

All 3 65es8000 i had, had horendous vertical banding. And yes I guess I am a little anal about 100 stripes in the background of my $4500 tv. The first 1 I had also had similar flashlighting as this sharp. But the colors on this sharp are amazing. I cant believe how much more color there is on this tv. I dont want to return it so im going to try and not see the flashlighting and well see how it goes.
post #14568 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by fiddler11 View Post

All 3 65es8000 i had, had horendous vertical banding. And yes I guess I am a little anal about 100 stripes in the background of my $4500 tv. The first 1 I had also had similar flashlighting as this sharp. But the colors on this sharp are amazing. I cant believe how much more color there is on this tv. I dont want to return it so im going to try and not see the flashlighting and well see how it goes.

If you watch a ton of regular TV content, you should be OK. But if you watch a lot of letterbox material, because you are aware of it..... it is going to probably drive you crazy.

A good movie to test your tolerance level to flash lighting is the recent horror movie "Sinister." This is an absolute flash light torture test for any LED, full array or edge lit. If you can watch this and not be distracted, you should be able to watch anything.
post #14569 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by fiddler11 View Post

All 3 65es8000 i had, had horendous vertical banding. And yes I guess I am a little anal about 100 stripes in the background of my $4500 tv. The first 1 I had also had similar flashlighting as this sharp. But the colors on this sharp are amazing. I cant believe how much more color there is on this tv. I dont want to return it so im going to try and not see the flashlighting and well see how it goes.
Some people get 3 bad ones, some people get one good one. I would be pissed if I got a bad one, especially at these prices. I've got a 42" Sammy in the BR that cost about $1000, I never adjusted anything (lost the remote) and the thing looks great.
post #14570 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebignewt View Post

Some people get 3 bad ones, some people get one good one. I would be pissed if I got a bad one, especially at these prices. I've got a 42" Sammy in the BR that cost about $1000, I never adjusted anything (lost the remote) and the thing looks great.

I have a 55 7500 and there is noticable vertical banding... I've noticed most people complaining about banding in larger panels is almost always horizontal. My assumption would be that the different sizes require different positioning of LED lights and thus the differences in banding. Also I think that's why most people find its more apparent on larger panels because panning shots usually involved horizontal movement and not vertical. The LGLM7600 I had before the Sammy had terrible horizontal banding that I couldn't live with...
post #14571 of 16125
WoW, I followed these instructions in post #1 in the link below for the F8000 regarding "How to enable Cal-Day and Cal-Night in the service menu".. It worked perfect for the es8000 using my factory remote.. Only differences is you need to skip over step #3 and our remote works. I now have two extra picture settings to choose from and tweak.. Very Cool!,

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1463286/official-samsung-unxxf8000-owners-thread

*Copy & Pasted from buzzard767 original post, all credit goes to him!

Service Menu

Please don't touch anything in the SM other than what I post below. You can brick your TV.

1. Turn the TV Off.
2. With the remote control press Mute, 1, 8, 2, Power. It takes a few seconds and then the SM will appear
*3. I deleted this step, it is not correct for the ES8000's menu, jump to step 4. (Badabing)
4. Arrow down to Expert and press Enter
5 .Right click on N/D ADJ to ON --- NOT FIX
6. Press Enter
7. Press Power
8. Wait a few seconds
9. Press Power
10. The Picture Mode will start in Dynamic
11. Change Picture Mode
12. Done
Edited by badabing - 4/12/13 at 4:53pm
post #14572 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by badabing View Post

WoW, I followed these instructions in post #1 in the link below for the F8000 regarding "How to enable Cal-Day and Cal-Night in the service menu".. It worked perfect for the es8000 using my factory remote.. Only differences is you need to skip over step #3 and our remote works. I now have two extra picture settings to choose from and tweak.. Very Cool!,

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1463286/official-samsung-unxxf8000-owners-thread

*Copy & Pasted from buzzard767 original post, all credit goes to him!

Service Menu

Please don't touch anything in the SM other than what I post below. You can brick your TV.

1. Turn the TV Off.
2. With the remote control press Mute, 1, 8, 2, Power. It takes a few seconds and then the SM will appear
*3. I deleted this step, it is not correct for the ES8000's menu, jump to step 4. (Badabing)
4. Arrow down to Expert and press Enter
5 .Right click on N/D ADJ to ON --- NOT FIX
6. Press Enter
7. Press Power
8. Wait a few seconds
9. Press Power
10. The Picture Mode will start in Dynamic
11. Change Picture Mode
12. Done

One thing to be aware of is that entering the Service Menu, even if you don't change a single thing, resets all your picture settings to default. I wouldn't suggest going in there. I enabled the CalDay and CalNight modes and don't even use them. Also, if you happen to mess with other stuff, even if you're not intending to change anything, you can really mess up your TV. I accidentally did it to mine. Luckily I purchased the Service Manual and was able to fix it, but it was pretty scary for a few hours.
post #14573 of 16125

smile.gif
post #14574 of 16125
No, No, No. People don't be messing around in that Service Menu. No,No,No, Don't Do it. Everything you could possibly need is in the Customer Accessable Menu's.
99.99999999999% of the people owning any Display Has No Buisness in there.
When you just want to see if you can access your Service Menu and Mess your TV up just trying to get out of it. Why don't you Call BB or Samsung and tell them something's wrong with your TV and you didn't Do a thing. It just hasn't been right the last couple of Days.
I wish they would Ban the Posting of Service Menu Access instructions on this and other forums, It never works out good for anybody. There are things you can do in a Service Menu By mistake that even the Local Samsung Service Center can't fix.
I thought about going into a Service Menu once and Slapped My Ownself.
Edited by Glenee - 4/13/13 at 8:12am
post #14575 of 16125
I have my 60es8000 on 1047.

Has anyone been able to downgrade to 1046.2?
post #14576 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by raist3001 View Post

I have my 60es8000 on 1047.

Has anyone been able to downgrade to 1046.2?
There is nothing wrong with 1047 and no you cannot downgrade.
post #14577 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by xitman View Post

There is nothing wrong with 1047 and no you cannot downgrade.

I dont think that is true. Wasn't there talk about a workaround if you saved previous firmware versions on a flash drive?
Edited by cmay91472 - 4/13/13 at 6:37am
post #14578 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

I dont think that is true. Wasn't there talk about a workaround if you saved previous firmware versions on a flash drive?

Talking about it is one thing. Actually doing it is another. I'm not certain that I read anywhere that someone had successfully reverted to a previous version of FW with the UNESxx8000. I read the "how to" for rolling back the FW but wasn't certain that it was for the UNESxx8000 series TVs.

Maybe I missed something.

Why would anyone want to roll back from 1047. I doubt that there's significant difference other than Smart Hub updates. When you read the so called list of FW improvements, it looks pretty much the same from 1046.2 to 1047?
post #14579 of 16125
I believe one or more of the calibrators here cited minimal adjustments to their settings after updating to 1047, and IIRC, they even said the change wasn't noticeable to their own eyes, but only to their meter readings. Sorry, I don't remember who it was.
post #14580 of 16125
When I watch 3D movies, the Backlit jump to 20 regardless of which mode I'm in. Do you tweak any 3D settings?

The first time I discovered corner lighting was in 3D movies - the ending credit where the screen is black except the credit. If I watch the same movie in 2D using my normal backlit setting, the corner is very difficult to see. Anyone has similar experiences? Mine is 65".
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