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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 487

post #14581 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by parodielin View Post

When I watch 3D movies, the Backlit jump to 20 regardless of which mode I'm in. Do you tweak any 3D settings?

The first time I discovered corner lighting was in 3D movies - the ending credit where the screen is black except the credit. If I watch the same movie in 2D using my normal backlit setting, the corner is very difficult to see. Anyone has similar experiences? Mine is 65".

A minimal amount of flash lighting in 3D mode is normal for just about any Edge Lit LED TV, especially with credits and/or dark scenes. I wouldn't be too concerned about it. If it was occurring in 2D.... then that would be a different story.
post #14582 of 16126
I see flashlights more in 3d as well in movie or standard mode. I imagine the default 20 or close to it, is needed to produce a bright and detailed 3d image. Worthy tradeoff for the great 3d image on this panel IMHO.
post #14583 of 16126
Hey guys. Hope everyone is enjoying their weekend. Just wanted to give an update to all those members who take out the time to help me. My wife also thanks you for keeping me sane.

Splitters didn't change anything. Still get the judder during live sports. Native on the STB doesn't help either. At last tomorrow I get a local HD broadcast so I will be able to watch hockey with the cable plugged directly in the tv. If it still does it I guess I go back to samsung and see if they will do something. They already replaced the panel so I guess the boards are next. Keep your fingers crossed!!
post #14584 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by parodielin View Post

When I watch 3D movies, the Backlit jump to 20 regardless of which mode I'm in. Do you tweak any 3D settings?

The first time I discovered corner lighting was in 3D movies - the ending credit where the screen is black except the credit. If I watch the same movie in 2D using my normal backlit setting, the corner is very difficult to see. Anyone has similar experiences? Mine is 65".

The TV considers 3D as another mode with its own unique settings. If you adjust backlight, contrast, color, tint, etc. in 3D, it won't affect your 2D picture.
post #14585 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyLyons1977 View Post

Hey guys. Hope everyone is enjoying their weekend. Just wanted to give an update to all those members who take out the time to help me. My wife also thanks you for keeping me sane.

Splitters didn't change anything. Still get the judder during live sports. Native on the STB doesn't help either. At last tomorrow I get a local HD broadcast so I will be able to watch hockey with the cable plugged directly in the tv. If it still does it I guess I go back to samsung and see if they will do something. They already replaced the panel so I guess the boards are next. Keep your fingers crossed!!

ah, so you tried putting the router on it's own coax off the main splitter then?
post #14586 of 16126
Hi Guys, hope some one can help me with this.
Recently got an Samsung ES8000 55" (has some torchlighting issues so is to go back and to be replaced with a F8000)

Also got the Yamaha V673.
All seems fine with the amp, until I try to use the ARC facility to get the sound from the TV to play through the amp. After looking through the manual and some advice on the internet, managed to enable the relevant settings in the amp, and get the sound.

Though it is working, I am having a strange issue. If I directly connect a PS3 or a laptop (media player) to the amp (the output to the TV) the sound is fine. However when I use the ARC feature (i.e. so the audio returns to the amp via the HDMI cable, and providing me with sound), I am getting 1 second dropouts at irregular intervals. It almost feels/sounds like the sound stops going to the amp for a fraction of a second, and then come on again. On the display of the amp, the speaker lights (5 speakers) go out for that second, and then re-appear. This happens whatever I am watching directly connected to the TV, whether the sets own FreeSat, or a movie on a USB. It doesn't happen though if the source (PS3 or laptop) is connected directly to the amp via a HDMI.

Messed about with a few settings in the TV, but no joy. The only options that the TV gives me are to switch between PCM or Dolby Digital (rest are greyed out), or if I want to lower or increase the 'audio delay'. Messed with these but no change, its doing exactly the same. Looked at the Yamaha V673 amp but there isn't much more to configure that will fix this.

What am I doing wrong?

Note: someone suggested that I could use an optical cable instead and hook that up from the TV to the amp, and get audio that way, however I am still curious why I am having problems using ARC.

As an addition point, someone else suggested that using the 'optical cable' was actually a better way to get audio from the TV to the amp; is this true?

Finally, if I was to use the optical cable method (as a last resort), I can't seem to find the input source for optical on the amp. Can anyone help?
post #14587 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by xitman View Post

There is nothing wrong with 1047 and no you cannot downgrade.


I honestly can't say what a picture looks like on 1046.2 but for me on firmware 1047 my picture looks absolutely amazing. So my question was more for informational purposes, Rather then Instructional. I was just curious if any member was able to successfully downgrade the firmware.

There is a website called Sammy go that instructs people on how to downgrade their firmware. However this procedure has one going into the service menu.

I'd like to say thank you to all the folks here who have provided calibration settings. My 60ES8000 series has one amazing picture. Images are so clear so sharp and so inky smooth. Once I connected my Oppo Blu-ray player, again I was amazed at the picture I was receiving.

My set has very minimal clouding, absolutely no banding. Every hockey game, every basketball game every soccer game is displayed perfectly without any banding.

To say that I am extremely happy with my TV would be an understatement.
post #14588 of 16126
S
Quote:
Originally Posted by galonzo View Post

ah, so you tried putting the router on it's own coax off the main splitter then?[

Still working on that one
post #14589 of 16126
Samsung is going to replace my 65es8000. what is your opinion, should I let them replace it with a 64f8500 now or wait and get a 65f8000 when they come out.
post #14590 of 16126
Easy get the 64F8000 cost wise is in par with what you paid for the ES8000 performance wise not sure lol
post #14591 of 16126
Hello,

I just received my new UN55ES8000 TV today and I connected it, turned it on and everything was working fine until it did a firmware update to 1047, afterwards my Smart Touch remote stopped working along with all the rest of the bluetooth devices. For some reason it has shut off my bluetooth intnernal to the TV. Has anyone else had this problem? If so, what is the fix?
post #14592 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgb24 View Post

Samsung is going to replace my 65es8000. what is your opinion, should I let them replace it with a 64f8500 now or wait and get a 65f8000 when they come out.


Man, get the 64"F8500. You will not be sorry. I just saw this TV right next to a 65"ES8000 and it blew the ES clear out of the water. the F8500 is the best TV I have seen so far and it is #1 on my list. I have seen the F8000 and I was impressed, but not the way the F8500 impressed me. I am not a plasma fan by any means but that TV made me a believer. You want to talk black levels and crisp, sharp picture, that is the TV. Now, there are ABL fluctuations that are a slight issue with the set, but Samsung is working on that fix and it can be reduced a lot until then. It does not keep me away from a TV that spectacular. I have always stayed away from Plasmas as I do not want to worry about the IR they create, but the F8500 set is making be want to take that challenge.
post #14593 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSteel View Post

Man, get the 64"F8500. You will not be sorry. I just saw this TV right next to a 65"ES8000 and it blew the ES clear out of the water. the F8500 is the best TV I have seen so far and it is #1 on my list. I have seen the F8000 and I was impressed, but not the way the F8500 impressed me. I am not a plasma fan by any means but that TV made me a believer. You want to talk black levels and crisp, sharp picture, that is the TV. Now, there are ABL fluctuations that are a slight issue with the set, but Samsung is working on that fix and it can be reduced a lot until then. It does not keep me away from a TV that spectacular. I have always stayed away from Plasmas as I do not want to worry about the IR they create, but the F8500 set is making be want to take that challenge.

Black levels on the F8500 still a notch below the HX950, but very close.

Increased light output from the F8500 may produce more frequent IR issues for anyone who watches regular TV and letterbox movies. If you watch nothing but full screen material with zero crawls or logos, you should be fine. But anything with a logo, forget about it. Watching multiple letterbox movies in a row, forget about it. Have a wife or kids who do not know how to "baby" a plasma, forget about it.

I still like my 65VT30, but my 65HX950 exceeds it in every way without the "babying".
post #14594 of 16126
Hi all, I'm considering acquiring a Samsung 55" and I have a couple of doubts:

It is worth to pay the extra money (about 800€) for the UE55F8000 instead of the UE55ES8000 model?

How is the performance with MKVs? I don't know if it's the right choice, use Samsung's player, or buy a Multimedia device like Popcorn or Dune to have the best experience.

Any feedback will be highly appreciated. Thanks!
post #14595 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yasmin View Post

Hi Guys, hope some one can help me with this.
Recently got an Samsung ES8000 55" (has some torchlighting issues so is to go back and to be replaced with a F8000)

Also got the Yamaha V673.
All seems fine with the amp, until I try to use the ARC facility to get the sound from the TV to play through the amp. After looking through the manual and some advice on the internet, managed to enable the relevant settings in the amp, and get the sound.

Though it is working, I am having a strange issue. If I directly connect a PS3 or a laptop (media player) to the amp (the output to the TV) the sound is fine. However when I use the ARC feature (i.e. so the audio returns to the amp via the HDMI cable, and providing me with sound), I am getting 1 second dropouts at irregular intervals. It almost feels/sounds like the sound stops going to the amp for a fraction of a second, and then come on again. On the display of the amp, the speaker lights (5 speakers) go out for that second, and then re-appear. This happens whatever I am watching directly connected to the TV, whether the sets own FreeSat, or a movie on a USB. It doesn't happen though if the source (PS3 or laptop) is connected directly to the amp via a HDMI.

Messed about with a few settings in the TV, but no joy. The only options that the TV gives me are to switch between PCM or Dolby Digital (rest are greyed out), or if I want to lower or increase the 'audio delay'. Messed with these but no change, its doing exactly the same. Looked at the Yamaha V673 amp but there isn't much more to configure that will fix this.

What am I doing wrong?

Note: someone suggested that I could use an optical cable instead and hook that up from the TV to the amp, and get audio that way, however I am still curious why I am having problems using ARC.

As an addition point, someone else suggested that using the 'optical cable' was actually a better way to get audio from the TV to the amp; is this true?

Finally, if I was to use the optical cable method (as a last resort), I can't seem to find the input source for optical on the amp. Can anyone help?


Hi again…

In relation to my previous issue of 'drop outs' of sound when using ARC to get sound from the TV to the receiver, I just read in the Samsung manual that if you are using a Digital component directly connected to the Tv, and hoping to get 5.1 sound to the receiver, this can be (only) done via the optical cable. The fact that it this is under the section dealing with ARC, appears to indicate that 5.1 cannot be output to the receiver via ARC, unless it a digital broadcast via Freeview HD or FreeSat HD.

Can someone with the Samsung manual please look at the (bit that deals with ARC) and tell me if I am reading this right.

If this is the case, then ARC isn't as amazing as we thought (at least in relation to the Samsung ES8000 55")

Please let me know... (Thanks in advance!)
post #14596 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by raist3001 View Post

I honestly can't say what a picture looks like on 1046.2 but for me on firmware 1047 my picture looks absolutely amazing. So my question was more for informational purposes, Rather then Instructional. I was just curious if any member was able to successfully downgrade the firmware.

There is a website called Sammy go that instructs people on how to downgrade their firmware. However this procedure has one going into the service menu.

I'd like to say thank you to all the folks here who have provided calibration settings. My 60ES8000 series has one amazing picture. Images are so clear so sharp and so inky smooth. Once I connected my Oppo Blu-ray player, again I was amazed at the picture I was receiving.

My set has very minimal clouding, absolutely no banding. Every hockey game, every basketball game every soccer game is displayed perfectly without any banding.

To say that I am extremely happy with my TV would be an understatement.

Had company over last night for "dinner and a movie". The wife who gets motion sickness very easily wanted to test the TV with a 3D movie so she brought home Avatar on Blueray. One our guests gets migrane headaches from certain types of visual stimulation. Neither of them experienced any negatives effects and both thoroughly enjoyed the entire movie. Our guests own four HD TVs and their main set is a fairly new 60' Sony Bravia 3D smart TV. They made more than one comment on the crispness of image, the "excellent" vivid colour and "really good" 3D effect. These people aren't authorities on the subject by any means but the do own four different large panel, relatively new HD TV's. An older 55" Sony, the newer 60" Bravia, one new 46" LG smart TV and one brand new 42" Samsung smart TV. They say the UN60ES is the most stunning TV they've seen.

I repeat that these are regular people with a fair amount of knowledge of what good TV performance is. They're not big time analysts nor enthusiasts. Just regular folks with a lot of TV ownership experience. For them to make unsolicited comments regarding the UN60s performance, tells me that it's got to have something going for it.

Our friends with the troublesome 60" Pioneer plasma are out of town and won't be home until May so their opinion of the UN60ES will have to wait. However, they're more than a little bitter regarding their situation with the prematurely malfunctioning Kuro. That might influence their opinion somewhat.

The guy is a real "Joneser" and simply has to have the best. I't will be interesting to see if he's prompted to go out and spend another 6 grand for a new Plasma or if he can escape the tunnel vision and find himself a nice LED LCD. Knowing him, it will have to be a full array. However, he's got this thing about the sexiness of really thin panels. I'm certain this anal struggle between full array and thinness will cause him considerable angst if he goes for LED LCD. Pretty sure he's more than a bit disenchanted with plasma but hey, you never know?

I'll have to pull out the popcorn and watch the show.
post #14597 of 16126
I hear ya Cmay91472. I am sure the F8500 looks great in the store....but if i was shopping, i'm not so sure i'd roll the dice and play the return game, for a technology that has a proven track record with IR. I'm not buying into the fact that all of a sudden, in probably the last year of plasma, the infamous "I.R." is a cured non issue and nothing to worry about in what may be the brightest plasma ever.

The problems probably wont be truly realized until buyers are out of the ether and at the end or close to the end of the return period.
post #14598 of 16126
There is No Risk Free IR Plasma and never will be. They have made great strides in using orbitor or IR preventive measures, but Do to the technology it will never Be Risk Free and Don't believe anyone that says it is.
post #14599 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

A minimal amount of flash lighting in 3D mode is normal for just about any Edge Lit LED TV, especially with credits and/or dark scenes. I wouldn't be too concerned about it. If it was occurring in 2D.... then that would be a different story.

That's simply not true... it may be normal for active 3D but not for passive.
post #14600 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by digimat View Post

That's simply not true... it may be normal for active 3D but not for passive.

That's why I put "just about" ! Read carefully next time. Besides.... LG TVs suffer from so much flash lighting regardless of 2D or 3D, minimal or maximum backlighting that it's almost a moot point.
post #14601 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

I hear ya Cmay91472. I am sure the F8500 looks great in the store....but if i was shopping, i'm not so sure i'd roll the dice and play the return game, for a technology that has a proven track record with IR. I'm not buying into the fact that all of a sudden, in probably the last year of plasma, the infamous "I.R." is a cured non issue and nothing to worry about in what may be the brightest plasma ever.

The problems probably wont be truly realized until buyers are out of the ether and at the end or close to the end of the return period.

Not sure if I had shared this before with you Blade, but with my 65VT50..... I had the "OPPO" logo on screen for 15 minutes prior to the screen saver kicking in. The logo IR'd itself into the center of the screen and was still present even when I decided to return the set a month later since I felt I would be better served with an LED instead of both a 65VT30 and 65VT50. Best decision ever as I can't even imagine the headaches involved in "babying" not just one, but two plasmas.... granted Panny's tend to have IR issues more so than last years Sammy plasmas, which brings me full circle to my original post of whether the 8500s increased light output will have an effect.
post #14602 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

Not sure if I had shared this before with you Blade, but with my 65VT50..... I had the "OPPO" logo on screen for 15 minutes prior to the screen saver kicking in. The logo IR'd itself into the center of the screen and was still present even when I decided to return the set a month later since I felt I would be better served with an LED instead of both a 65VT30 and 65VT50. Best decision ever as I can't even imagine the headaches involved in "babying" not just one, but two plasmas.... granted Panny's tend to have IR issues more so than last years Sammy plasmas, which brings me full circle to my original post of whether the 8500s increased light output will have an effect.

Of course what I'm saying is an exception but it is happening to me. I have a Sony LCD TV (5 year old) and I get image retention on it a lot. It goes after sometime but I get it a lot. Just like a Plasma.
and many times I have seen OPPO logo on it as IR. Funny and rare but true.

However I agree with you that plasma needs babying. Some might disagree but being a careful person myself I know if I get a plasma I will be babying it.
post #14603 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by galonzo View Post

ah, so you tried putting the router on it's own coax off the main splitter then?


So far one period in. Besides one instance of pixelation there has been NO judder/stutter during the live hockey game on NBC. What do you guys think?

Period 2 is starting now.....
post #14604 of 16126
I'm cable directly into the TV
post #14605 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyLyons1977 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by galonzo View Post

ah, so you tried putting the router on it's own coax off the main splitter then?


So far one period in. Besides one instance of pixelation there has been NO judder/stutter during the live hockey game on NBC. What do you guys think?

Period 2 is starting now.....

The pixelation may have been on the broadcast side. Another thing you could try while using a STB is to temporarily take the splitter and router out of the equation rather than putting it on it's own coax. So, of course you won't have internet during the test (for the video service, the router is only needed for VOD, multiroom, games, and guide data) but at least you can determine whether or not having the router split with a box is causing your issue.
post #14606 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by galonzo View Post

The pixelation may have been on the broadcast side. Another thing you could try while using a STB is to temporarily take the splitter and router out of the equation rather than putting it on it's own coax. So, of course you won't have internet during the test (for the video service, the router is only needed for VOD, multiroom, games, and guide data) but at least you can determine whether or not having the router split with a box is causing your issue.


I had pixelation forever in this house. It was far worse when I had Comcast. The lines outside where awful.

2nd PERIOD UPDATE

No judder/stutter during the 2nd period. One odd event though was towards the end of the period the broadcast paused and the channel NBC displayed. Like when you switch channels and the info displays for what channel your on. It wasn't the HDMI 1920x1080p Samsung info just the channel.

Almost like the signal dropped for a split second.

Thoughts? You think this could be where the cable box produces the judder/stutter.
post #14607 of 16126
Ok here is the final update:

Plugged coax directly in the TV. Had NO judder/stutter during the entire hockey game live on NBC this afternoon.

Had one instance of pixelation during the first period which I do get and have been getting ever since I moved in this house 7 years ago. Its a lot less now with Verizon.

During the 2nd period it looked like I got a signal loss. Picture and audio paused then the name of the channel appeared (NBC-1-10) on the screen and the game resumed. Almost like the channel changed. Note the Samung source info did not appear ex HDMI 1, HDMI 2, etc. It was not the normal judder/stutter I usually get.

I think I have narrowed it down to:

-Set top box
-HDMI cable

I was thinking the TV's HDMI port but I dont think it would just NOT work correctly with live sports. I think it also might be safe to rule out the wiring in the basement.

Please chime in.....
post #14608 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by galonzo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyLyons1977 View Post

So far one period in. Besides one instance of pixelation there has been NO judder/stutter during the live hockey game on NBC. What do you guys think?

Period 2 is starting now.....

The pixelation may have been on the broadcast side. Another thing you could try while using a STB is to temporarily take the splitter and router out of the equation rather than putting it on it's own coax. So, of course you won't have internet during the test (for the video service, the router is only needed for VOD, multiroom, games, and guide data) but at least you can determine whether or not having the router split with a box is causing your issue.

Or, it could still be the fact that when you split the cable with the STB and router at the TV, the internet and video data stream coming in on the same cable run from the main splitter may have been causing it. You could try my last suggestion (quoted above) and temporarily take the router (and extra splitter) out and only hook up the STB and see how the HD sports channels do .
post #14609 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by galonzo View Post

Or, it could still be the fact that when you split the cable with the STB and router at the TV, the internet and video data stream coming in on the same cable run from the main splitter may have been causing it. You could try my last suggestion (quoted above) and temporarily take the router (and extra splitter) out and only hook up the STB and see how the HD sports channels do .

Ok tonight i see there is a hockey game on and some soccer. I am gonna take the internet offline and the splitter and go right to the TV and see what happens.
post #14610 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyLyons1977 View Post

Ok tonight i see there is a hockey game on and some soccer. I am gonna take the internet offline and the splitter and go right to the TV and see what happens.

Last question and then I will be back later. If this works will it be ok to split the line in the bedroom and set the router up there? So basically it will be:

Line from basement to main splitter-One line just to the STB for the Sammy and the other line upstairs and then I will split it again for the tv and router. The TV upstairs is like a 30 inch 720p. My wife watches that TV. She dont even watch HD haha
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