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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 509

post #15241 of 16125
Darbee Darblet update- - maybe it's my eyes or the recent firmware updates - - but my banding is less noticeable, even on hockey games! (The true test for me.)

I was watching the Ranger & Pens series this past week and I really had to look for banding - - even on the quick moving, "panning" shots. My Darblet is set to 50% - HD.
post #15242 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

Darbee Darblet update- - maybe it's my eyes or the recent firmware updates - - but my banding is less noticeable, even on hockey games! (The true test for me.)

I was watching the Ranger & Pens series this past week and I really had to look for banding - - even on the quick moving, "panning" shots. My Darblet is set to 50% - HD.

Let's hope it's the Darbee smile.gif Otherwise old age could be catching up eek.gif
post #15243 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

Really, really good points by Glenee, Bladerunner & Eric.

Trying to get the "be all, end all" TV set is pretty elusive. Black levels are great but I think the black levels on our Sammy LCD/LED sets are superb. I chose the LCD/LED over the Plasma for many reasons - - heat issues, IR and to me, general "pop" of the PQ plus 3D performance.

There are many Plasma Purists out there (especially with CNET) that continue to push the Plasma "accuracy" and "best picture" message that to me is contrary to my own eyes. But I never let that affect my buying decision. It's not important to me to have the number one rated set - - by anyone's standards. I tried to buy within my price range and the best possible PQ to my eyes - - that's it! Everything else is just icing on the cake. I do not use any of the "Smart Apps" with my Sammy 65" and probably never will. Hence - - the Evo (or Smart Evo?) Kit has no allure for me. I don't even surf the net with my Sammy anymore -- I use my Samsung Tablet 10.2"

And it's o.k. if you are a Plasma Purist and believe that Plasma is a far superior picture to LCD/LED. Just don't say that everyone else is "stupid" or they don't know what they are doing when buying a TV. And vice-versa.

Lastly - - this forum has been a tremendous resource in helping me get the very best out of my set. It's literally day and night - - the PQ - - compared to when I first bought this set back in August, 2012, and today - - NO comparison!

Between the firmware updates and the information I have gained from the settings on this forum - - I have an incredible viewing experience and always look forward to watching my Sammy TV!
Daytime blacks are superb and by turning on the eco setting with a level of 1 or 2 will keep blacks at night with no clouding and give you a great nighttime picture. The reason why a lot of people don't think LEDs look good in the dark is because they keep it to brite for nighttime viewing.

I will say my ST60 did have a superb picture, especially in the dark. I am actually surprised I ended up with an LED as the ST60 did turn me into a plasma lover. At least I ended up with a top of the line Sammy LED. I don't think I would have taken an LG or Sharp LED. I must say I keep questioning if I should try another ST60 then I watch the Sammy and get happy with my choice. Especially not worrying what is on my screen and for how long.....
post #15244 of 16125
Sigh, worthless fedex. Could not be home, would not accept my signed piece of paper saying to leave it. Wont get my EK till tuesday now.
post #15245 of 16125
Looks like I'll have a happy ending after all. Someone from corporate office called me last night and after talking to them I'll be getting a refund. Might take up to 3 weeks, but I'm glad that it worked out.
post #15246 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by xitman View Post

Looks like I'll have a happy ending after all. Someone from corporate office called me last night and after talking to them I'll be getting a refund. Might take up to 3 weeks, but I'm glad that it worked out.

That happened with me. They set a refund in the store for me. Like a credit to buy whatever I wanted.

Took less then a week.
post #15247 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyLyons1977 View Post

That happened with me. They set a refund in the store for me. Like a credit to buy whatever I wanted.

Took less then a week.
Do they just issue the credit for what you paid? What if you got a good deal and the refund won't cover the cost of an equal replacement?
post #15248 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by eric3316 View Post

Do they just issue the credit for what you paid? What if you got a good deal and the refund won't cover the cost of an equal replacement?
In my case I'm getting a full refund of $1800 + $3.99 Amazon Prime overnight shipping via check, not store credit.
post #15249 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

Let's hope it's the Darbee smile.gif Otherwise old age could be catching up eek.gif

I did just get back from vacation in Mexico. It could be the Tequila. Or the Cuban rum....
post #15250 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by xitman View Post

In my case I'm getting a full refund of $1800 + $3.99 Amazon Prime overnight shipping via check, not store credit.
I assume that is what you paid?

Did they give you the choice to take an F series model as an even swap?
Edited by eric3316 - 5/18/13 at 8:50pm
post #15251 of 16125
for those of you who like the color of default Movie mode, but are stuck using standard mode like i do due to better black levels in micro dimming. i've got a solution. since Samsung refuses to enable micro dimming mode in their firmware updates, and i was hoping they would enable this feature in the EVO kit so that we have the same micro dimming feature control (SMART LED) like F8000 users do, unfortunately i got fed up with them pissing on their customers and took matters to my own hand.

i've mentioned before in the past that i work in the visual effects industry and look at colors everyday to judge live action elements vs CG, so my eyes are pretty trained. and since wife is out of town with the baby, i had nothing to do today, so i decided to color correct my own tv using my own eyes like i would do at work on the projects i work on.

low and behold, i was able to reach the same color in Standard mode that matches the default movie mode. i've included my settings below. keep in mind that this is on a 60ES8000, so don't expect that it'll do magic on anything other than the 60ES8000. even so, every panel is different, even within the same model and size, but at least i believe these settings will get you VERY close to the default movie mode.

Standard mode:

Backlight: 14
Contrast: 100
Brightness:45
Sharpness: 20 (preference)
Color: 50
Tint (G/R): G60/R40

Advanced settings
Dynamic Contrast: Low
Black tone: OFF (always!!!)
Flesh Tone: 0
RGB: Off
Color Space: Native
White Balance: default
Gamma: 0
Motion Lighting: Off

Picture Options
Color Tone: Warm2
Digital Noise: off (preference)
Mpeg Noise: off (preference)
Auto motion: Clear (preference)
Led motion: off

the above Standard mode will get you the same movie mode look which i've also included below. For the movie mode, i've made a few personal changes like sharpness, contrast (i believe the default movie mode contrast is 90? too lazy too reset to find out), and color space both to Native.

Movie Mode

Backlight: 20
Contrast: 100
Brightness:45
Sharpness: 20 (preference)
Color: 50
Tint (G/R): G50/R50

Advanced settings
Dynamic Contrast: Low
Black tone: OFF (always!!!)
Flesh Tone: 0
RGB: Off
Color Space: Native
White Balance: default
10 point: off
Gamma: 0
Black Enhancer: on

Picture Options
Color Tone: Warm2
Digital Noise: off (preference)
Mpeg Noise: off (preference)
Auto motion: Clear (preference)
Led motion: off

i know the backlight settings are probably bright for some of your standard. but one thing i've found is that the light output in standard mode isn't as linear as in movie mode. a backlight setting of 14 in standard will get you the same level as movie mode in 20. and 10 in standard will get you 15 in movie. so when you compare the colors, make sure you match those backlight settings, so the light output is level matched. plug those settings in for standard mode, you'll see by switching back and forth between movie and standard that the color is now matched, with the exception that standard mode will have a stronger highlight than movie mode, this is due to micro dimming at work, but color wise, it should match.

again, this was all done by eye, so instrumentally, it might be off by a few values, but by eye you shouldn't tell any difference. this also DOES NOT turn your TV into a calibrated setting. as we all know the default movie mode is close to the ideal calibrated look, but it is not a fully calibrated mode. those settings will simply give you the same color representation as movie mode.

when you switch back and forth between movie and standard, try to close your eyes when you get to Natural mode, and open your eyes again when you get to standard. that way your brain doesn't have the residual image of natural mode.

feel free to chime in. and if the settings don't work for you, oh well tough luck. biggrin.gif
Edited by howzz1854 - 5/18/13 at 10:03pm
post #15252 of 16125
Thanks for the post, I bet that took a lot of time. How did you set the color? Did you use your eyes and a pattern disc or just some regular content? I would imaging it is very difficult to set color/greyscale accurately with your eyes...

Some generic feedback from looking at your numbers. In my experience, a backlight of 20 on movie mode is quite high and I would have horrible flashinglight/clouding and is too much for me. Additionally, with a contrast of 100 on Standard mode, I can promise you that you are getting pink/red push on your whites. Check out my CalMAN guide below in my signature under the setting contrast section and I have a picture showing the phenomenon.

Also, color space set to "native" is the worst preset mode, and "auto" is actually pretty good. Native bypasses the internal processing and is useful for people using external color processors, but should not really be used other than that.

That said, if you like them, congrats! An accurate picture is not necessarily everyones favorite.
post #15253 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mavinwow View Post

Sigh, worthless fedex. Could not be home, would not accept my signed piece of paper saying to leave it. Wont get my EK till tuesday now.
FedEx and UPS are getting hard to deal with. I had a Mac Mini coming Apple said I could download a release paper from them, Sign It and leave it on the door and UPS would leave the package. Well guess what ? The UPS man told me that won't work.
If it is a direct signature you better be home to sign for it.
You can go on line and have it left at a UPS store, or If FedEx at a Kinko's but it adds a day of delivery.
post #15254 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by howzz1854 View Post

for those of you who like the color of default Movie mode, but are stuck using standard mode like i do due to better black levels in micro dimming. i've got a solution. since Samsung refuses to enable micro dimming mode in their firmware updates, and i was hoping they would enable this feature in the EVO kit so that we have the same micro dimming feature control (SMART LED) like F8000 users do, unfortunately i got fed up with them pissing on their customers and took matters to my own hand.

i've mentioned before in the past that i work in the visual effects industry and look at colors everyday to judge live action elements vs CG, so my eyes are pretty trained. and since wife is out of town with the baby, i had nothing to do today, so i decided to color correct my own tv using my own eyes like i would do at work on the projects i work on.

low and behold, i was able to reach the same color in Standard mode that matches the default movie mode. i've included my settings below. keep in mind that this is on a 60ES8000, so don't expect that it'll do magic on anything other than the 60ES8000. even so, every panel is different, even within the same model and size, but at least i believe these settings will get you VERY close to the default movie mode.

Standard mode:

Backlight: 14
Contrast: 100
Brightness:45
Sharpness: 20 (preference)
Color: 50
Tint (G/R): G60/R40

Advanced settings
Dynamic Contrast: Low
Black tone: OFF (always!!!)
Flesh Tone: 0
RGB: Off
Color Space: Native
White Balance: default
Gamma: 0
Motion Lighting: Off

Picture Options
Color Tone: Warm2
Digital Noise: off (preference)
Mpeg Noise: off (preference)
Auto motion: Clear (preference)
Led motion: off

the above Standard mode will get you the same movie mode look which i've also included below. For the movie mode, i've made a few personal changes like sharpness, contrast (i believe the default movie mode contrast is 90? too lazy too reset to find out), and color space both to Native.

Movie Mode

Backlight: 20
Contrast: 100
Brightness:45
Sharpness: 20 (preference)
Color: 50
Tint (G/R): G50/R50

Advanced settings
Dynamic Contrast: Low
Black tone: OFF (always!!!)
Flesh Tone: 0
RGB: Off
Color Space: Native
White Balance: default
10 point: off
Gamma: 0
Black Enhancer: on

Picture Options
Color Tone: Warm2
Digital Noise: off (preference)
Mpeg Noise: off (preference)
Auto motion: Clear (preference)
Led motion: off

i know the backlight settings are probably bright for some of your standard. but one thing i've found is that the light output in standard mode isn't as linear as in movie mode. a backlight setting of 14 in standard will get you the same level as movie mode in 20. and 10 in standard will get you 15 in movie. so when you compare the colors, make sure you match those backlight settings, so the light output is level matched. plug those settings in for standard mode, you'll see by switching back and forth between movie and standard that the color is now matched, with the exception that standard mode will have a stronger highlight than movie mode, this is due to micro dimming at work, but color wise, it should match.

again, this was all done by eye, so instrumentally, it might be off by a few values, but by eye you shouldn't tell any difference. this also DOES NOT turn your TV into a calibrated setting. as we all know the default movie mode is close to the ideal calibrated look, but it is not a fully calibrated mode. those settings will simply give you the same color representation as movie mode.

when you switch back and forth between movie and standard, try to close your eyes when you get to Natural mode, and open your eyes again when you get to standard. that way your brain doesn't have the residual image of natural mode.

feel free to chime in. and if the settings don't work for you, oh well tough luck. biggrin.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mavinwow View Post

Thanks for the post, I bet that took a lot of time. How did you set the color? Did you use your eyes and a pattern disc or just some regular content? I would imaging it is very difficult to set color/greyscale accurately with your eyes...

Some generic feedback from looking at your numbers. In my experience, a backlight of 20 on movie mode is quite high and I would have horrible flashinglight/clouding and is too much for me. Additionally, with a contrast of 100 on Standard mode, I can promise you that you are getting pink/red push on your whites. Check out my CalMAN guide below in my signature under the setting contrast section and I have a picture showing the phenomenon.

Also, color space set to "native" is the worst preset mode, and "auto" is actually pretty good. Native bypasses the internal processing and is useful for people using external color processors, but should not really be used other than that.

That said, if you like them, congrats! An accurate picture is not necessarily everyones favorite.


I have to agree with Mavinwow on color here as I once used native in standard but then realized certain inaccuracy and judged that too be way oversaturated with glowing greens and neon magenta / fuscia's etc etc....Skin tone quality (especially in Afro American) is definitively better and more realistic with my settings

IMHO...Movie mode produces sharper more detailed picture on things such as teeth, lips, eyes as well as some other items.

IMHO...on my 60es8000 the color is most similar to both modes when:

Standard mode:

Backlight: 10
Contrast: 95
Brightness:45
Sharpness: 25 (preference)
Color: 50
Tint (G/R): Default

Advanced settings
Dynamic Contrast: OFF
Black tone: OFF (always!!!)
Flesh Tone: 0
RGB: Off
Color Space: Auto
White Balance: default
Gamma: 0
Motion Lighting: Off

Picture Options
Color Tone: Warm1
Digital Noise: off (preference)
Mpeg Noise: off (preference)
Auto motion: Standard (preference)
Led motion: off


Movie Mode

Backlight: 11
Contrast: 95
Brightness:45
Sharpness: 25 (preference)
Color: 50
Tint (G/R): default

Advanced settings
Dynamic Contrast: Low
Black tone: OFF (always!!!)
Flesh Tone: 0
RGB: Off
Color Space: auto
White Balance: default
10 point: off
Gamma: 0
Black Enhancer: on

Picture Options
Color Tone: Standard
Digital Noise: off (preference)
Mpeg Noise: off (preference)
Auto motion: Standard (preference)
Led motion: off


Samsara and CNN are my demo material to bring color as close as possible. IMHO you cannot get greens and magenta to the same realistic and detailed quality that Movie delivers. Its close but...no cigar. I saw a fuscia sweater on a NBC news lady last week and there was no comparison that Movie displayed a much sharper and detailed texture in the sweater than did Standard. Individual fuzzie strands were much more evident in Movie as well as the base material of the garment such as folds and stitching. It looked great in standard but...it looked real in Movie mode.

Movie mode is my full-time go-to mode and I switch to Standard if a particular source/material displays an intolerable level of flashlights. Just when I thought flashlight was a mild but full time issue in Movie mode I will be pleasantly surprised because bluray and fiosHD do NOT behave consistently in Movie mode. Meaning not all material will display flashlights when you'd expect to see them.

I speak to flashlights as if its a more prevalent issue than intended, but it's for the purpose of this discussion. Flashlight in Movie mode on my unit is rare and mostly very tolerable if/when it does manifest.When intolerable I'm glad that Standard mode is there to alleviate the problem when called upon.

The only "bad" cloud I have ever seen in 11 months on this tv is a scene in "The Fifth Element" where in the beginning it transitions from outerspace to our atmosphere before displaying the ancient ruins scene. A strange cloudy purple-eee thing happens in Movie that does not in Standard.
Edited by Bladerunner1959 - 5/19/13 at 8:48am
post #15255 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post


I have to agree with Mavinwow on color here as I once used native in standard but then realized certain inaccuracy and judged that too be way oversaturated with glowing greens and neon magenta / fuscia's etc etc....Skin tone quality (especially in Afro American) is definitively better and more realistic with my settings

IMHO...on my 60es8000 the color is most similar when:

Standard mode:

Backlight: 10
Contrast: 95
Brightness:45
Sharpness: 25 (preference)
Color: 50
Tint (G/R): Default

Advanced settings
Dynamic Contrast: OFF
Black tone: OFF (always!!!)
Flesh Tone: 0
RGB: Off
Color Space: Auto
White Balance: default
Gamma: 0
Motion Lighting: Off

Picture Options
Color Tone: Warm1
Digital Noise: off (preference)
Mpeg Noise: off (preference)
Auto motion: Standard (preference)
Led motion: off


Movie Mode

Backlight: 11
Contrast: 95
Brightness:45
Sharpness: 25 (preference)
Color: 50
Tint (G/R): default

Advanced settings
Dynamic Contrast: Low
Black tone: OFF (always!!!)
Flesh Tone: 0
RGB: Off
Color Space: auto
White Balance: default
10 point: off
Gamma: 0
Black Enhancer: on

Picture Options
Color Tone: Standard
Digital Noise: off (preference)
Mpeg Noise: off (preference)
Auto motion: Standard (preference)
Led motion: off


Samsara and CNN are my demo material to bring color as close as possible. IMHO you cannot get greens and magenta to the same realistic and detailed quality that Movie delivers. Its close but...no cigar. I saw a fuscia sweater on a NBC news lady last week and there was no comparison that Movie displayed a much sharper and detailed texture in the sweater than did Standard. Individual fuzzie strands were much more evident in Movie as well as the base material of the garment such as folds and stitching. It looked great in standard but...it looked real in Movie mode.

Movie mode is my full-time go-to mode and I switch to Standard if a particular source/material displays an intolerable level of flashlights. Just when I thought flashlight was a mild but full time issue in Movie mode I will be pleasantly surprised because bluray and fiosHD do NOT behave consistently in Movie mode. Meaning not all material will display flashlights when you'd expect to see them.

I speak to flashlights as if its a more prevalent issue than intended, but it's for the purpose of this discussion. Flashlight in Movie mode on my unit is rare and mostly very tolerable if/when it does manifest.When intolerable I'm glad that Standard mode is there to alleviate the problem when called upon.

The only "bad" cloud I have ever seen in 11 months on this tv is a scene in "The Fifth Element" where in the beginning it transitions from outerspace to our atmosphere before displaying the ancient ruins scene. A strange cloudy purple-eee thing happens in Movie that does not in Standard.
Movie mode with color tone set to standard? I have yet to see a professional calibration use that setting for a accurate colors....
post #15256 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by eric3316 View Post

Movie mode with color tone set to standard? I have yet to see a professional calibration use that setting for a accurate colors....

If you know me at all, you'll know that I do not consider "professional calibration" anywhere close to where I would enjoy the picture...and I have plugged in many "prof calibrated" settings over time on quite a few tv's...

List includes the Sony 35"xbr crt, Toshiba 60" cinema sries rptv, Sony 60" kvl rpLCD as well as this fine unit....

IMHO, the prof calibrations (considered accurate..LOL) are always too dim, too much red/brown push, too lifeless...for my tastes.

That said I wouldnt want any of the great calibrators on this thread to think this comment dimishes their work and efforts at all. Our thread calibrators are wizards!

IMHO , enjoy what your eyes tell you. I will not touch them.
Edited by Bladerunner1959 - 5/19/13 at 8:56am
post #15257 of 16125
you don't have to use backlight of 20, it's just for comparison. use anything you like. but 20 in movie mode equates to 14 in standard, and 15 in movie equates to 10 in standard. so all set and done, you can use 10 for backlight in standard mode, that'll get you the same brightness level of 15 in movie.

i used several blu-ray materials, each emphasizes individual channels. those materials are planet earth, dark knight, and sky fall. and yes, i did it by eye.

i use naitive color space because it gives the most pleasing color as oppose to auto. my setup is through an HTPC > AVR > ES8000. it's very important to set the Tint level in standard to the value i specified. standard mode tends to over emphasize the red channel, while the movie mode tends to overemphasize the yellow (G+R). this setting will compensate it and get you to where movie mode is. see it for yourself, do an A/B test between standard and movie, and adjust backlight level after you're all done. but whatever color space setting you use in movie, must also match in standard.
post #15258 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

If you know me at all, you'll know that I do not consider "professional calibration" anywhere close to where I would enjoy the picture...and I have plugged in many "prof calibrated" settings over time on quite a few tv's...

List includes the Sony 35"xbr crt, Toshiba 60" cinema sries rptv, Sony 60" kvl rpLCD as well as this fine unit....

IMHO, the prof calibrations (considered accurate..LOL) are always too dim, too much red/brown push, too lifeless...for my tastes.

That said I wouldnt want any of the great calibrators on this thread to think this comment dimishes their work and efforts at all. Our thread calibrators are wizards!

IMHO , enjoy what your eyes tell you. I will not touch them.
Gotcha...I personally like a duller picture. Makes it feel more plasma like.
post #15259 of 16125
Eric3316, your answer is completely understood ,consistent and makes sense since you do like a plasma-ish picture.
post #15260 of 16125
Hey guys I've been really busy and this one was really fast I don't really have much time to read a whole lot Samsung replace my panel anyway they replaced everything except for the power supply TV seems to be fine some clouding seems like I have to jack up the backlight because this one seems a bit darker than the previous panel then when I jack up the backlight to accommodate my likings in the settings then I get a bit of an edge lit glow in the corners gonna bleed in kind of anyway I was wondering if anybody f8000 relaced for the es8000. I haven't talked to Samsung yet.. About my problem I just wanted to see if it would burn in or breakin... thanks guys
post #15261 of 16125
Slow down and use some punctuation, I can't tell what you are trying to ask.

Go Blue!
post #15262 of 16125
Calibration Part 2

Almost 1 week enjoying my calibrated set. I just thought "is that it?"
Then I decided I wanted to do 3D Calibration. Before having a meter, my color tone was set to WARM1. But I wanted to see if this is the most accurate setting.
Here's how I did the calibration: MOVIE MODE
  • Set up a tripod and attached the i1D3 meter.
  • Using a scotch tape, I attached the 3D glass in front of the meter. (1/16" distance of meter from 3D glass; 1/2" distance of glass from tv set)
  • From this point, all slides loaded from AVSHD (Converted from 2D-3D)
  • I loaded 109% white and set the contrast until one of the R/G/B started clipping (unfortunately RED started clipping at 62 contrast)
  • On the first try you have to turn ON the 3D glass manually
  • Adjusted brightness so Black 16 doesn't flash
  • At this point, I couldn't reach my target, of 35ftL. I only ended up with 7.18 ftL. My guess is that it's because of the flicker on the glasses. So I will not be able to adjust my backlight for now. I'll do it later by eye using real 3D content.
  • Next is the White Balance. (80% & 30% IRE for the gain/offset). Surprisingly, I only needed to adjust R-GAIN. (Well, it makes sense 'coz it's the first one to clip earlier)
  • 10p White Balance is not available in 3D so this is dead end for me. Good thing the WB adjustment gave me good results with 30-100 IRE at a minimum. 20IRE was 3.8 delta E. And forget about 10IRE.
  • Colorspace was a lot easier to calibrate this time. With only minor changes to the settings.
  • Calibration done.

To test if I got it right, I loaded "Legend Of The Guardians", did some final adjustment with the Backlight (I ended up with BL15). Woooww!!.. It's like the accuracy of the colors and the shade helps with the 3D. I remember watching it with the kids last month (almost 2x a day) and to be honest, I wasn't impressed and I didn't want to tell the wife. But now, with the calibrated settings, I don't think I will need 3D optimization so I turned it off. 3d effect was set to Auto. Even the kids who watch it most of the time noticed the enhancement on the 3D and were extremely happy. No placebo effect there.
I also loaded "Rise of the Guardians" (movies that I watched recently prior to calibration) and man, the picture is so life like, it feels like you're actually there.

Bottom Line:
Calibrating the set for 3D is really worth the effort.


These are my final settings. 3D MOVIE MODE Settings (Click to show)
Backlight: 15
Contrast: 62
Brightness: 47
Sharpness: 6
Colour: 50
Tint: 50/50
Advanced:
Dyn Contrast: Off
Black Tone: Off
Color Space: Custom
Red: 50, 0, 0
Green: 8, 54, 7
Blue: 0, 2, 50
Yellow: 52, 50, 7
Cyan: 6, 49, 49
Magenta: 50, 0, 50
White Balance:
R-Offset: 25
G-Offset: 25
B-Offset: 25
R-Gain: 15
G-Gain: 25
B-Gain: 25

Gamma: -1
Picture Options:
Colour Tone: Warm2
Digital Noise: Off
MPEG Noise: Off
Motion Plus: Clear
LED Motion: Off

Calibration Charts (Click to show)
Luminance


White Balance


Gamma


CIE Diagram
post #15263 of 16125
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Sympathetik, Are these settings global across movie mode? Meaning will these settings work well also for non 3d movies? Or must I dial in these settings each time I play a 3d movie?

Or is there another setting that holds these settings and switches to them when in 3d?

I apologize if this is a noob question.
post #15264 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by raist3001 View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Sympathetik, Are these settings global across movie mode? Meaning will these settings work well also for non 3d movies? Or must I dial in these settings each time I play a 3d movie?

Or is there another setting that holds these settings and switches to them when in 3d?

I apologize if this is a noob question.

Each HDMI input has a separate memory for 3D setting.
Allshare(straight from your Network Storage) shares the same memory for 3D setting with Plex. So this probably goes for all Smarthub Apps.
post #15265 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by sympathetik View Post

Each HDMI input has a separate memory for 3D setting.
Allshare(straight from your Network Storage) shares the same memory for 3D setting with Plex. So this probably goes for all Smarthub Apps.

Awesome man! Been waiting a looooong time for someone to do a legit 3D calibration. Can't wait to try them out. Only question is...when will you calibrate for Standard mode in 3D?
post #15266 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I previously owned the ES7500, as some might remember who have been here long-term. I had many issues with the Auto Motion Plus - specifically, clear was the only mode that worked without stutter, other than custom (judder reduction=0, blur reduction=10) - this custom setting worked well for me too.

After getting a full refund due to the set being defective, I took the chance on buying the F8000. I can say after using it for a few weeks that the motion issues are not improved even slightly with the quad-core processing - in fact, it's worse than ever!

Clear is still the only mode in AMP that works without stuttering badly, but on top of that, the custom blu reduction setting I used to use last year no longer works without bad stutter. Also, for some reason, it uses some forced frame interpolation (meaning soap opera effect) on all PAL and 25.000fps content, from DVD sources, HDMI, and even .mkv files played directly through the USB port via the built-in media player. I've tested my HDTV FiOS over HDMI and component, set to both 720p and also 1080i - it all stutters the same. There is simply no improvement whatsoever in the motion handling of the F8000 compared to the ES series. Samsung is lying.

Also, for some reason, with that custom setting, which should mean motion interpolation is off, some HDTV channels still show motion interpolation, and the soap opera effect is obvious when you switch AMP back and forth between off and custom, even with judder reduction on 0.

When I called Samsung on that issue a couple days ago, they acted like they've never heard anything about that before (sound familiar)? Bottom line - don't believe that motion handling is improved with the quad-core processor. It isn't. I was hoping the quad-core would improve AMP also - sadly it doesn't. But should we really be surprised?

I am not surprised, also iam saving my comments on this evo kit till it's release on may 28-30.
post #15267 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by gamermwm View Post

Awesome man! Been waiting a looooong time for someone to do a legit 3D calibration. Can't wait to try them out. Only question is...when will you calibrate for Standard mode in 3D?

We'll leave that to 10K.. smile.gif
post #15268 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by sympathetik View Post

We'll leave that to 10K.. smile.gif
3d mode calibration probably isn't going to come from me on account of not owning a tripod or any 3d content smile.gif

Watching Game of Thrones last night exposed a flaw in my current standard settings. In the scene where Tyrion and Sansa are in the bedroom after the wedding and they are standing in front of the door with the camera facing them from the side, there is a lot of woodwork half in shadow and half lit by the very yellow candles/oil lamps. That entire scene had a just noticeable green cast to it.

I paused a frame in there and just tweaked the white balance offsets by eye for a few minutes, what seemed to fix it (visually, and for that scene) is to reduce green offset by 1 from what I had previously posted. So white balance should be:
WHITE BALANCE
26 24 22 24 34 1

Not having 10pt adjustment available is pretty annoying in this case. I've circled the issue in the white balance chart below:


I know all the guides and literature say you shouldnt be adjusting green offsets so I guess this weekend I will try again with the meter to get a consistent picture. Either that or go back to Movie mode and be done with it biggrin.gif
post #15269 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post


I know all the guides and literature say you shouldnt be adjusting green offsets so I guess this weekend I will try again with the meter to get a consistent picture. Either that or go back to Movie mode and be done with it biggrin.gif

It's adjust Red/Blue OR adjust Green only. I think adjusting green only is the key to getting good results out of Standard. It will never look like Movie Mode, but the black level in Movie mode will never look like Standard, so you have to make a choice. I would be satisfied if it was close to default Movie Mode.

I have played with it recently and the settings I am using for Standard are here (keep in mind this is by eye):


(I have only listed changes made to the defaults)

Backlight - 5
Contrast - 90
Brightness - 42
Color - 45
Sharpness - 0

White Balance:

Green Gain - 22
Green Offset - 38

Color Space - Auto

Flesh Tone - (-5)

Gamma - (-3)

Color Temp - Warm2

Auto Motion Plus - Custom (Blur Reduction 10, Judder Reduction 0)

Obviously some compromises had to be made. Contrast at 78-82 takes away the pinkish hue in most test patterns, but in real world viewing produces a dull image, so I left it at 90.
post #15270 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by RaylanGivens1 View Post

It's adjust Red/Blue OR adjust Green only. I think adjusting green only is the key to getting good results out of Standard. It will never look like Movie Mode, but the black level in Movie mode will never look like Standard, so you have to make a choice. I would be satisfied if it was close to default Movie Mode.

I have played with it recently and the settings I am using for Standard are here (keep in mind this is by eye):


(I have only listed changes made to the defaults)

Backlight - 5
Contrast - 90
Brightness - 42
Color - 45
Sharpness - 0

White Balance:

Green Gain - 22
Green Offset - 38

Color Space - Auto

Flesh Tone - (-5)

Gamma - (-3)

Color Temp - Warm2

Auto Motion Plus - Custom (Blur Reduction 10, Judder Reduction 0)

Obviously some compromises had to be made. Contrast at 78-82 takes away the pinkish hue in most test patterns, but in real world viewing produces a dull image, so I left it at 90.

I don't think that's correct. If you are going to adjust gamma while doing the 10P white balance, you're going to have to move all three (R,G,B) and not just R & B or G. Moving G by itself is mostly just raising or lowering the gamma level at each interval. To properly perform 10P white balance adjustments you must have a meter and I can't see any way that it could be possible to do it by eye. Also, if your 10P white balance was set properly you should be able to put the Contrast setting on 100 without any tint or hue being added to the contrast test pattern. But, again, you can't do that without a meter.
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