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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 525

post #15721 of 16127
I was looking thru some info and I came across Samsung's claims on the Smart Hub page about a "Cineplex" app delivering HD. I thought I read in here that all content via Smart Hub is 480p.
post #15722 of 16127
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjvnyc View Post

I was looking thru some info and I came across Samsung's claims on the Smart Hub page about a "Cineplex" app delivering HD. I thought I read in here that all content via Smart Hub is 480p.

Hello Cjvnyc. Your data may be misleading. I have been streaming full 1080p from VUDU via the SmartHub on my Samsung bluray e6500 player for almost a year. When the stream is behaving at it's best it looks almost as good as some bluray and FIOS 1080i that I've seen. This should be no different if done via the SmartHub on the tv itself.
post #15723 of 16127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

Hello Cjvnyc. Your data may be misleading. I have been streaming full 1080p from VUDU via the SmartHub on my Samsung bluray e6500 player for almost a year. When the stream is behaving at it's best it looks almost as good as some bluray and FIOS 1080i that I've seen. This should be no different if done via the SmartHub on the tv itself.
Yeah there's no reason for the Evo Smarthub to stream any less resolution than anything else. It's more about the bandwidth of the source than the TV chips.
post #15724 of 16127
Quote:
Originally Posted by parodielin View Post

It seems the issue happens if I pause a screen for a long time in Blu-ray. If I use Samsung's TV apps, for example, Smart TV - Netflix, it will freeze if I touch TV's volume controls (assuming I paused the screen for a while to trigger this problem).

Samsung warranty service wants to replace a LCD panel. Not sure if it would fix the problem or not but at least I think they will try everything until it is resolved. Not sure how I feel about it for a 3 months old TV and the LCD panel will be replaced...



hi

it is a T-con problem. must change the board.
post #15725 of 16127
Rented Oblivion last night 1080p On Demand. Got some awesome results using the built in 2D to 3D conversion set to Auto. The On Demand version was full screen and so the 3D effect was in full effect not hindered by the loss of screen real estate and black bars at top/bottom (aspect ratio)

But back when I first got my ES8000 I noticed that the on the fly conversion algorithm was drastically better than the D8000 I owned for a year. And now with the Evo kit I'm sure we have inherited any algorithm upgrades made to the F series, and it seemed apparent in my movie viewing last night. If you haven't already used the sets conversion process on a HD movie try it out and you might be suprised. I haven't gotten great results with sports and gaming (which prove quite tricky for 3D) but most satellite HD material and especially full screen bluray proves quite stunning

Oblivion is an amazingly beautiful sci-fi movie and some scenes lend themselves quite well and almost seemed to be shot with 3D in mind. As long as you don't expect much pop out (which you're not going to get and trust me you don't want what pop out you can get upon force with the Manual effect). The 2D to 3D conversion provides great depth and an almost window-like experience of looking into another world. That window effect does seem to be getting better as does the natural separation of people and objects judging by past tv's and Samsung bluray players I've owned that have had 3D conversion. I've seen a clear progression that shows improvement with time. Make sure to leave your motion setting to Clear as that has resolved much of the issue with fast moving scenes in on the fly conversion and is a big improvement that was just added to the 3D options upon this set's release
Edited by gamermwm - 8/24/13 at 12:44pm
post #15726 of 16127
Gamermwm, i have enjoyed the 3d conversion as well at times...

Regarding aspect setting; does 16x9 degrade pic or resolution other than filling more of the screen and cutting off some information on the sides?

I use screen fit for bluray and really like how 16x9 cleans up the various channel and material formats on fios.
post #15727 of 16127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

Gamermwm, i have enjoyed the 3d conversion as well at times...

Regarding aspect setting; does 16x9 degrade pic or resolution other than filling more of the screen and cutting off some information on the sides?

I use screen fit for bluray and really like how 16x9 cleans up the various channel and material formats on fios.

Although altering the image in any way shape or form may be counted as degrading the PQ, what does it matter as long as you are happy with the result? As long as it doesn't bother you and serves your purpose well, more power to you

I just leave mine on Screen Fit, and deal with the letterbox bars when I have to, although I have used the zoom on my Samsung BD-D6700 bluray player for 3D material just because 2:35 aspect ratio is not immersive in any way in 3D on a 55" screen. I don't mind that very common aspect ratio for 2D, but even when I use my 100" screen and BenQ 1080st projector, I still grimace when I realize that I have to watch a 3D movie with letterbox bars. The 3D effects just seem squashed or smashed down, for lack of a better term. The experience is lacking when you're losing that vertical real estate that enhances the overall immersiveness of 3D in the home theatre (in my opinion)
post #15728 of 16127
Quote:
Originally Posted by gamermwm View Post

Although altering the image in any way shape or form may be counted as degrading the PQ, what does it matter as long as you are happy with the result? As long as it doesn't bother you and serves your purpose well, more power to you

I just leave mine on Screen Fit, and deal with the letterbox bars when I have to, although I have used the zoom on my Samsung BD-D6700 bluray player for 3D material just because 2:35 aspect ratio is not immersive in any way in 3D on a 55" screen. I don't mind that very common aspect ratio for 2D, but even when I use my 100" screen and BenQ 1080st projector, I still grimace when I realize that I have to watch a 3D movie with letterbox bars. The 3D effects just seem squashed or smashed down, for lack of a better term. The experience is lacking when you're losing that vertical real estate that enhances the overall immersiveness of 3D in the home theatre (in my opinion)


I appreciate your reply. I totally agree that 3d is much improved when reducing letterbox and gaining real estate on the screen. Another benefit is that it reduces further the flashlighting effect that is inherent in the 3d mode due to brightness levels required.

Technically my question still stands, does the 16x9 setting reduce resolution in any way or just reduce minimal right/left image information?

I cannot detect any difference in pic quality but (being more of a video purest than most) i'd still like to know.
post #15729 of 16127
Saw an Auto-Update happen this morning, anyone know what the details are?
post #15730 of 16127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

Technically my question still stands, does the 16x9 setting reduce resolution in any way or just reduce minimal right/left image information?

I cannot detect any difference in pic quality but (being more of a video purest than most) i'd still like to know.

Blade I believe the first few posts in this link will help answer your question:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/799796/question-about-using-the-tv-zoom-button

Using zoom on a tv does degrade PQ, and in your instance using 16:9 for your purpose is basically doing the same thing. Since you are stretching an image that would otherwise be 1:1 pixel mapped for max resolution, resolution is taking a slight hit. You are also losing a small part of the picture on the sides, but that is obviously less of a concern for you than actual resolution

If the trade off is worth it to you and your eyes don't perceive the resolution lost, then the pros outweigh the cons. Exactly how much resolution is being lost...who knows...but judging by the small amount of information lost on the sides - the image is not being stretched much and therefore you can't be losing much. But in my case, stretching the 3D image on 2:40 AR blurays is in fact causing me to lose more on the sides than in your instance but resolution is still noticeably HD - just somewhere between 720p & 1080p
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

I appreciate your reply. I totally agree that 3d is much improved when reducing letterbox and gaining real estate on the screen. Another benefit is that it reduces further the flashlighting effect that is inherent in the 3d mode due to brightness levels required.

Very true. I didn't think about mentioning that but flashlighting is always annoying and can only be ignored so much. Another good point as to why 1:78 AR for 3D is better than 2:35 AR. I'm glad we can agree but much of what I've said would anger the aspect ratio hounds who insist on the director's original intent. I see both sides of the argument & really don't mind 2:35 for 2D, but for 3D James Cameron and others who actually care about the immersiveness of 3D will continue to release their 3D blurays in 1:78 ratio which is far better in this case

It was such a big deal to Cameron that he went back and opened the picture up for Titanic 3D which was originally shot for a 2:40 release (letterbox bars). He didn't crop the film which would have angered the purists, but actually went back and added in part of the larger shot that was cut out from the original shot to make it work. Of course he was genuis enough to have the foresight to shoot the film originally with multiple formats in mind. I wish all directors cared about maximizing the 3D effect but for many its just a tacked on accessory
post #15731 of 16127
Hello - I've had the 65 inch version of the set for several months now and have enjoyed reading the many posts in this forum. I've used several poster's calibrations (Jestered and 10k) and was thoroughly impressed with the changes...thanks guys.

I'm now trying to overcome an issue that I didn't realize during the purchase of my set in that my receiver is not HDMI 1.4 compliant...Pioneer Elite VSX23 -TXH. So I'm not able to view 3D content on the TV through my Panasonic DMP-BDT230 Bluray player, which is 3D capable.

I've tried a HDMI splitter, piping the HDMI from the BD player to the splitter and then from there, two more HDMI cables. One to the receiver and one to the HDMI 2 on the TV. The receiver and the TV seemed to get confused and would blink on and off and I'd get no sound 75% of the time, so I returned that.

I'm looking for suggestions to try and as I came to the forum this morning, I read above how the TV has an auto 2D to 3D conversion. Would that work for my situation? Running BD movie in 2D from the bluray player and have the TV auto convert it?

Another thought was running the HDMI cable from the BD player straight to the TV and then seeing if I could pipe the audio to the Receiver via HDMI 2 (ARC) on the TV? It mentions that my receiver needs to support the ARC function, however I cannot seem to find whether it does or does not.

Any help is appreciated.
post #15732 of 16127
Quote:
Originally Posted by WarmongerX View Post

Hello - I've had the 65 inch version of the set for several months now and have enjoyed reading the many posts in this forum. I've used several poster's calibrations (Jestered and 10k) and was thoroughly impressed with the changes...thanks guys.

I'm now trying to overcome an issue that I didn't realize during the purchase of my set in that my receiver is not HDMI 1.4 compliant...Pioneer Elite VSX23 -TXH. So I'm not able to view 3D content on the TV through my Panasonic DMP-BDT230 Bluray player, which is 3D capable.

I've tried a HDMI splitter, piping the HDMI from the BD player to the splitter and then from there, two more HDMI cables. One to the receiver and one to the HDMI 2 on the TV. The receiver and the TV seemed to get confused and would blink on and off and I'd get no sound 75% of the time, so I returned that.

I'm looking for suggestions to try and as I came to the forum this morning, I read above how the TV has an auto 2D to 3D conversion. Would that work for my situation? Running BD movie in 2D from the bluray player and have the TV auto convert it?

Another thought was running the HDMI cable from the BD player straight to the TV and then seeing if I could pipe the audio to the Receiver via HDMI 2 (ARC) on the TV? It mentions that my receiver needs to support the ARC function, however I cannot seem to find whether it does or does not.

Any help is appreciated.

Hey Warmonger, I would suggest a high speed HDMI cable directly from your bluray player to the tv to bypass your 2D limitation on the AVR. And then just use an optical cable from the bluray player to your AVR. That should solve your issue I believe. The only negative is that you won't get 7.1 audio using the optical cable, it will be limited to 5.1, but until you upgrade to a 3D receiver you will have some tradeoffs
post #15733 of 16127
Quote:
Originally Posted by WarmongerX View Post

Hello - I've had the 65 inch version of the set for several months now and have enjoyed reading the many posts in this forum. I've used several poster's calibrations (Jestered and 10k) and was thoroughly impressed with the changes...thanks guys.

I'm now trying to overcome an issue that I didn't realize during the purchase of my set in that my receiver is not HDMI 1.4 compliant...Pioneer Elite VSX23 -TXH. So I'm not able to view 3D content on the TV through my Panasonic DMP-BDT230 Bluray player, which is 3D capable.

I've tried a HDMI splitter, piping the HDMI from the BD player to the splitter and then from there, two more HDMI cables. One to the receiver and one to the HDMI 2 on the TV. The receiver and the TV seemed to get confused and would blink on and off and I'd get no sound 75% of the time, so I returned that.

I'm looking for suggestions to try and as I came to the forum this morning, I read above how the TV has an auto 2D to 3D conversion. Would that work for my situation? Running BD movie in 2D from the bluray player and have the TV auto convert it?

Another thought was running the HDMI cable from the BD player straight to the TV and then seeing if I could pipe the audio to the Receiver via HDMI 2 (ARC) on the TV? It mentions that my receiver needs to support the ARC function, however I cannot seem to find whether it does or does not.

Any help is appreciated.

I had the exact same problem when I first got my 65ES8000. Read below...

Quote:
Originally Posted by gamermwm View Post

Hey Warmonger, I would suggest a high speed HDMI cable directly from your bluray player to the tv to bypass your 2D limitation on the AVR. And then just use an optical cable from the bluray player to your AVR. That should solve your issue I believe. The only negative is that you won't get 7.1 audio using the optical cable, it will be limited to 5.1, but until you upgrade to a 3D receiver you will have some tradeoffs

I did this when I got my TV and my Onkyo receiver was not 3D ready. I also tried the HDMI splitters, but they won't work because they always downgrade the signal to the lowest common denominator, which is the non-3D receiver, so it won't work. Initially I didn't want to buy a new receiver just yet, so I connected the player directly to my TV over HDMI, then connected it to the receiver using optical. I didn't like this because not only is it limited to 5.1, but more importantly it doesn't support the HD audio codecs. I hated that, so I went looking for a solution that didn't require a new receiver.

What I finally did was found and purchased a Panasonic blu-ray player that had dual-HDMI out. I connected one to the receiver for audio and the other to the TV to send the 3D video. Worked perfect and didn't limit my audio to the receiver. I soon fell tired of not having the video and audio going straight to the receiver so I bought a new Pioneer Elite and was done with it once and for all.

A little off-topic, but... Some of you may remember a while back after getting my TV and the new blu-ray player and then the receiver, I had mentioned that I was trying to stay away from looking at speakers because that was the weak point in my set up and I wasn't ready to spend that kind of money. Well, I finally got the bug and just set up my full blown Polk Audio home theater speaker set up. It's pretty ridiculous! I'm amazed at what I've been missing all this time.
post #15734 of 16127
Thanks for the replies.

Jestered - Yeah that's exactly why i didn't want to go that route too. I have a 7.1 setup and want to keep that as well as continue to have the HD audio codecs. However I wasn't aware that getting a dual HDMI out player would accomplish that. I almost bought the Panasonic 330 that has that too...argh!

Since I'm looking for an interim fix, (the Elite I want, SC-75, is still a pretty penny )this might work. How did you configure the Panasonic to do that or was it automatic?

A little off topic, but I've been keeping tabs on your calibration postings. I currently use them, however I've noticed that since the TV has updated several times since April/May the colors have darkened. I'm currently on 1051. Has anyone else noticed that?

EDIT : Just got done playing around with the 2D - 3D conversion with the TV. Can't believe that I didn't know it could even do that....apparently I need to actually READ the manual and not just skim it wink.gif

For those that have used the 2D to 3D on the TV, two questions. First, did you alter the 3D settings at all on the TV from Auto and second, how does it differ from what a 3D Bluray player can deliver? Is it a big noticeable difference?
Edited by WarmongerX - 8/30/13 at 9:42am
post #15735 of 16127
Quote:
Originally Posted by WarmongerX View Post

Thanks for the replies.

Jestered - Yeah that's exactly why i didn't want to go that route too. I have a 7.1 setup and want to keep that as well as continue to have the HD audio codecs. However I wasn't aware that getting a dual HDMI out player would accomplish that. I almost bought the Panasonic 330 that has that too...argh!

Since I'm looking for an interim fix, (the Elite I want, SC-75, is still a pretty penny )this might work. How did you configure the Panasonic to do that or was it automatic?

A little off topic, but I've been keeping tabs on your calibration postings. I currently use them, however I've noticed that since the TV has updated several times since April/May the colors have darkened. I'm currently on 1051. Has anyone else noticed that?

EDIT : Just got done playing around with the 2D - 3D conversion with the TV. Can't believe that I didn't know it could even do that....apparently I need to actually READ the manual and not just skim it wink.gif

For those that have used the 2D to 3D on the TV, two questions. First, did you alter the 3D settings at all on the TV from Auto and second, how does it differ from what a 3D Bluray player can deliver? Is it a big noticeable difference?

2D to 3D conversion is a novelty at best. Even though this tv does it better than most other devices, it still is more like 2.5D than 3D. And its not even close to the quality of the 3D in movies converted by the studios. And obviously can't hold a candle to native 3D. Having said that, it has come a long way since 2010 or so when I first tried it, and I'm a huge fan

Every year it seems to get better, and motion smoothing has helped tremendously. And remember that the better source material you have the better results you'll get (bluray vs HD 1080i satellite or 720i/p) and with full screen material (vs letterboxed)

I was disappointed Samsung started leaving the feature off their bluray players the last couple years, but it's still in the high end 3D sets. Just use the Auto setting, which actually has been the best setting since they improved the conversion process awhile back. It will provide some great depth and a few out of screen effects. Manual can make things pop more, but gives you more eye strain because it can't really replicate OOS effects. Always select the Clear motion setting and just be aware of eye fatigue which will happen quite a bit faster when using this feature than with native 3D material
Edited by gamermwm - 8/30/13 at 7:04pm
post #15736 of 16127
Quote:
Originally Posted by WarmongerX View Post

Thanks for the replies.

Jestered - Yeah that's exactly why i didn't want to go that route too. I have a 7.1 setup and want to keep that as well as continue to have the HD audio codecs. However I wasn't aware that getting a dual HDMI out player would accomplish that. I almost bought the Panasonic 330 that has that too...argh!

Since I'm looking for an interim fix, (the Elite I want, SC-75, is still a pretty penny )this might work. How did you configure the Panasonic to do that or was it automatic?

It's not automatic, but very simple. You basically use the settings in the blu-ray player to send audio-only over the second HDMI out port. After that you simply connect the other HDMI to the TV and you're done.

Although the 2D to 3D conversion is done fairly well, it's nothing like real 3D. I wouldn't even consider that as a replacement or work-around at all.
post #15737 of 16127
me too,i really cant wait for my pn60e8000. Keep us updated on how well the tv is doing !! enjoy. otiy
post #15738 of 16127
What's the newest FW update out ??
post #15739 of 16127
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDenham View Post

What's the newest FW update out ??

Released on May 10th, 2013 version 1051.2
post #15740 of 16127
Jestered - Congrats on the new speaker setup! Did you go 5.1 or full blown 7.1?

For Bluray movies, the soundtracks are incredible. Don't try Multichannel SACD's --they become addicting.
post #15741 of 16127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

Jestered - Congrats on the new speaker setup! Did you go 5.1 or full blown 7.1?

For Bluray movies, the soundtracks are incredible. Don't try Multichannel SACD's --they become addicting.

Thanks Rico! Originally I was going to go with a standard 5.1 with added front highs. Here's the speaker set up I now have (all Polk Audio):

R/L Fronts- RTiA5 Towers (new)
Center- CSiA6 (new)
Surrounds- RT25i's (already had)
Rear Surrounds- FXiA6's (new)
My old subwoofer- my next purchase

Everything is in the RTi series Polk speakers, so they're all timber matched, even the RT25i's that I already had. Initially I was going to use all the new speakers for my 5.1 set up and use the RT25i's for the front highs. I temporarily put the RT25i's at the surround position and the FXiA6's in the rear surround position and have been super impressed, so I may keep it as a 7.1 setup and not have front highs. I haven't totally made up my mind on that, but I'm leaning that way. I might also replace the RT25I's with two more FXiA6's, but not sure about that yet. Currently as it sits, this is a pretty bad@ss speaker system.

The only thing I have left to do is the subwoofer, which is coming soon. I think I've decided on the SVS PB1000 subwoofer. I don't think I can go wrong with that one. I'll probably have that within the next two weeks. At that point I should be done for a long long time! The only other thing I am considering, but I'm not sure I need it, is an external amp to get more power to the front stage, but I don't have a very large room and my Pioneer Elite seems to have plenty enough to push all this stuff as it sits.

I am very happy with everything so far! Just have to get that sub to finish this all up!
Edited by Jestered - 9/4/13 at 8:39pm
post #15742 of 16127

 

Hi Jestered.  I liked my Polk setup that I had yrs ago, great SQ for the cost.  Currently I also have timbre-matched direct-firing surrounds, really fab for localizing instruments with hirez MC music.

 

However if you're optimizing for film  with your current speakers consider using the RT25s as Heights (heights should be direct-firing) and move the Fx rear surrs forward to surround position, at about 95-100 degrees off centerline.  That will enhance the immersive surround bubble to the side and front and will prob cover the rear pretty well.  

 

Or, if you're quite far off the back wall and so want to retain rear surrs and have some speaker budget, then you could consider buying another pair of Fx  as surrounds, again using the 25s as Heights.

 

I haven't tried Heights but lots of folks really like them.  As you can see, my ceiling acts as a bandshell so I get some natural height effect.  To the side you see my R wide speaker (Audyssey DSX) and then further to the R, the R surr positioned optimally for music (lower than for film).

 

Oh, just so this isn't completely OT, I'm still lovin my 65" ES8000-a fab TV!

post #15743 of 16127
Jestered - - very, very cool! Sounds like your rockin for both movies and music.

I tried 9.1, even 11.1 setup with Front Height speakers.

To me, 7.1 channels works just right as there are a lot of dedicated soundtracks in 7.1 and it's easier to matrix two other channels (front or back) from 5.1 to 7.1.

There is a difference between 5.1 & 7.1 - - especially with Back Rear Surrounds (with Side Surrounds). Spatially, it really brings Home Theater to life with a 7.1 soundtrack. Totally enveloping sound.

And then there is the recent SACD, Multichannel of the Doors - L.A. Woman, with the lyric "Mo Jo Risin - Keep on Risin - - Risin Risin" shooting from speaker to speaker around the room! If I would have had a "black light" and some Neon posters, I'd be totally there, man....
post #15744 of 16127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

...I am very happy with everything so far! Just have to get that sub to finish this all up!

this sub is a steal:

http://velodyne.com/special-offers/vdr-12-subwoofer-refurbished.html

post #15745 of 16127
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

this sub is a steal:
http://velodyne.com/special-offers/vdr-12-subwoofer-refurbished.html

I am so tempted to pull the trigger on that sub! The only thing that's holding me back is that it is rated at 25-120Hz. I really want something that can get under 20Hz for the sub. Do you have any thoughts on the SVS PB1000? Any idea how it compares to the Velodyne?
post #15746 of 16127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

Jestered - - very, very cool! Sounds like your rockin for both movies and music.

I tried 9.1, even 11.1 setup with Front Height speakers.

To me, 7.1 channels works just right as there are a lot of dedicated soundtracks in 7.1 and it's easier to matrix two other channels (front or back) from 5.1 to 7.1.

There is a difference between 5.1 & 7.1 - - especially with Back Rear Surrounds (with Side Surrounds). Spatially, it really brings Home Theater to life with a 7.1 soundtrack. Totally enveloping sound.

And then there is the recent SACD, Multichannel of the Doors - L.A. Woman, with the lyric "Mo Jo Risin - Keep on Risin - - Risin Risin" shooting from speaker to speaker around the room! If I would have had a "black light" and some Neon posters, I'd be totally there, man....

Thanks Rico! I'm very happy with the set up so far. I just need to upgrade the sub and I'll pretty much be done.

BTW. Rico/SoundofMind- I thought my center channel was huge and it took me a few days to get used to seeing that beast sitting under the TV, but you two have some scary @ss center channel speakers!
post #15747 of 16127
Jestered/Sound of Mind - I've been very happy with an older Velodyne sub - 810. It only gets down to 26 Hz and I can't imagine what a 20 Hz sub would sound like. Is there a real audible difference between 25 or 26 versus 20Hz? Are there a lot of subs that go that low? How about movie soundtracks? I wonder if you can find out the range or how deep down a movie mix goes, bass wise (sub).

Yes - - the Paradigm CC-690 is a monster center weighing in at 70 lbs. It really shines with the mids and highs - - especially for movies with its WMTMW driver arrangement - with two 7" woofers flanking dual 7" mid-woofers drivers. The four drivers flank a vertical array consisting of a 1" G-PAL tweeter and a 4.5" midrange driver. (Technical specs, if anyone is interested!)

Its the vertical design with the midrange driver that REALLY makes the difference. Personally - - I think it is as good a center channel that you can get regardless of speaker manufacturer. It really helps you hear the vocal soundtrack on movies if you have high hearing loss like I do.

Here's another tip for those that want the most out of their speakers and receiver/amplifier setup. I recently invested in a Furman ELITE-15 PF i Linear Filtering AC Power Source (Power Conditioner). This replaced a $100 Belkin Power Conditioner.

The biggest benefit is the Furman Sound "Power Factor Technology" that provides over 45 amps peak charge surplus current. Besides protecting your equipment (and it has twelve outlets on the back!) I've never heard my sub sound better or my speakers sound better with explosions and other soundtracks where the audio goes from dead silence to loud, loud noise. Raw, clean power. I didn't think it would make that much difference but it really has. Plus - - I have enough $$$ in my HT setup that I'd like to protect my investment.
post #15748 of 16127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

Jestered/Sound of Mind - I've been very happy with an older Velodyne sub - 810. It only gets down to 26 Hz and I can't imagine what a 20 Hz sub would sound like. Is there a real audible difference between 25 or 26 versus 20Hz? Are there a lot of subs that go that low? How about movie soundtracks? I wonder if you can find out the range or how deep down a movie mix goes, bass wise (sub).

I didn't understand what the hype was about getting under 20Hz initially, and still haven't personally heard/felt it, but apparently it has little to do with sound at that point. It's not really audible, but you can feel it in your chest without the sub sounding like it's putting out too much bass. You're supposed to feel the soundtrack in your seat, but everything still sounds smooth and clean. A friend of mine just got one of the SVS PB1000 subs and he told me, "Dude, I can feel the movie coming through my couch". After spending this much money on my other speakers, I simply don't want to second-guess my sub purchase. I want to get what I want and be done without re-thinking it. I know me and that will just end with me buying a different sub, which I don't want to do.

I don't know if you're even interested in what a sub that can get that low sounds/feels like with your set up, but SVS has a great return policy. You can try it out for 30 days and if you don't want to keep it they will refund 100% of your payment and pay for shipping it back. So, you're not out any money at all if you decide it's not worth it. If that sub is as good as everyone says, it's a no-brainer at $500 w/ free shipping.

For $500 the SVS PB1000 (19-250Hz), which also gives you quite a bit more range at the upper sub frequency, is generally considered the best you can get at that price point. To go up a level it's the $700 HSU VTF-3 being the one to get. It's very comparable to the SVS sub, but it gets even lower (16Hz). I just don't want to spend that much on a sub. Plus it's about $100 for shipping that one, so it's now a $800 sub. There's obviously equivalent and better subs out there, but the consensus is that you're going to spend well over $1,000 to meet or beat those two. I'm definitely not in the market for a $1,000 sub. The wife would be even more pissed than she is now.

I've yet to hear either of the two subs I've mentioned, so my statement is simply relaying the general consensus that I've found during my sub research. If the SVS is anywhere near what people say, I'll be very happy with it (when I finally get it).
Edited by Jestered - 9/6/13 at 9:21am
post #15749 of 16127
I love how fast and smooth 3D mkv files can be played using the SmartHub on my 55ES8000 but recently I am getting back into playing media content through my newly built HTPC, i7,gpu HD7870 with internal 3dBD player, I want to rip all my blu-rays including 3D discs to ISOs. I didn't even buy a 3D player just using the HTPC running Totalmeda Theatre 5/6 and PowerDVD ultra 13; I am testing out to see which one has the best features and then will decide which one to use as an external player for XBMC.

My questions are around the hz of the TV. I know on regular TVs the input can only accept 60hz so even though the Windows OS HTPC can output at 120hz and the 120hz or 140hz that is advertised is just the internal processing that adds extra frames causing frame interpolation "documentary look".
I also read that 3D tvs like ours can accept 120hz and display 120hz; is this true? I just want to make sure I am using the TV to its full capabilities.

When I output from HTPC I get 1080p 60hz; using Totalmedia Theatre 6 when I play a 3DBD it updates the refresh rate to 1080p 30hz and when I play using PowerDVD 13 I get 1080p 24hz on 3D discs; this is only on 3D content; is that normal and does the same thing happen if I had a external commercial 3D blu-ray player using this tv?
post #15750 of 16127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post


I am so tempted to pull the trigger on that sub! The only thing that's holding me back is that it is rated at 25-120Hz. I really want something that can get under 20Hz for the sub. Do you have any thoughts on the SVS PB1000? Any idea how it compares to the Velodyne?

Either would be a fine sub and a good value. I don't know what a coupla Hz difference in F3 pointtranslates to in real-world listening.  You're right, 20-25 is felt, not heard.  Note that by placing a sub closer to a corner you can gain considerable sub performance with "room gain". The VDR is a 12" and has more sophisticated electronics w/ DSP and presets.  I personally use that feature all the time.  For ex., the music setting gives me accurate, smooth yet punchy bass, the Action Movie setting rattles the walls.  :)

 

Hey, here's an idea.  If still available, order two of the Velos.  Same price as 1 SVS, way more power/headroom, WAY more speaker area-and you'll gain low freq extension.  if you like you can situate two subs to help cancel room modes created by either one for smoother, punchier bass.  Two subs is crazy good, especially at that price!

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