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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 535

post #16021 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mavinwow View Post

Oh I see, sounds like a pain in the ass smile.gif

I just ran through my standard settings, made a few click adjustments here and there, probably wont make a difference in picture.
The difference is pretty big when using 3dlut. I was able to greatly improve standard mode. Check out this comparison of charts with/without:
My Standard Mode calibration based on TV controls alone:



Standard Mode with 3dlut

post #16022 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by AKM03 View Post
 

My UN60ES8000 TV started to act funny...it'll reboot and show random coloured lines. When I unplug it..seems to work fine for a few hours, then the display issue happens again, the reboot cycle with random lined colours. Here is a youtube video I made to demonstrate. Can anyone help with this?
 

Photo/Video Evidence.

 

Youtube video 

 

 

 

 

Still Photo shot

 

 

Same thing started happening to my set purchased in April 2013, repair guy is coming in 3 days.

I read horror stories about these issues on Samsung TVs, I hope new board will resolve the issue for good.

post #16023 of 16126
ok guys i have a question i hope someone can answer.
i went into the advanced service menu about a week or so ago. i was just wanting to see if i could see what panel i had by looking in there. but anyway when i exited the service menu it reset the tv to factory when i exited. (i didnt know it would do that, wasnt sure how to back out of the service menu).

i am wondering does this factory reset change anything that i cant see? because the picture looks totally different now or at least it seems to me it does? i have changed all the settings back to what they were before the reset happened. also i know for a fact i see a ton more flash lighting and clouding effect now than i did before it did the factory reset.
can someone let me know if the factory reset will in deed change settings in the service menu that i wouldnt of wanted changed? it just seems a lot brighter than before, no matter how low i adjust the backlight or contrast or brightness.
thanks
post #16024 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by thl0103 View Post
 

 

 

Same thing started happening to my set purchased in April 2013, repair guy is coming in 3 days.

I read horror stories about these issues on Samsung TVs, I hope new board will resolve the issue for good.

If you get it fixed lemme know. This problem is way too common in Samsung TV's..especially the larger screens. If this is a bust I'm never buying another Samsung TV again, may dabble with Sony next time around. Hope it doesn't come to that.

post #16025 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by AKM03 View Post

If you get it fixed lemme know. This problem is way too common in Samsung TV's..especially the larger screens. If this is a bust I'm never buying another Samsung TV again, may dabble with Sony next time around. Hope it doesn't come to that.
That's what I said about Sony. The only difference is I had 2 XBR's different models fail at the 18 month mark which is just out of warranty.
At least if there is a problem it is showing up while still in warranty.
Different strokes for different manufactures.
post #16026 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by thl0103 View Post


Same thing started happening to my set purchased in April 2013, repair guy is coming in 3 days.
I read horror stories about these issues on Samsung TVs, I hope new board will resolve the issue for good.

I dunno, but hope so.
This'll be our second mainboard in a year and a half of owning the set.
post #16027 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

4k content is years away. The current version of hdmi can't even do 60hz at 4k so gaming is out also.
It's almost less attractive than 3d right now, at least 3d has content.

Oled is way more attractive to me than 4k, it's a shame it is so expensive and curvy.

Yeah, that's pretty much what i want after a 3d gaming projector.
post #16028 of 16126
The following are my updated movie settings as of 1/19/14, after trying out 10k's suggestion (to mute the tv so that backlight stays on at 0 IRE in order to get a proper contrast ratio reading) and Turboman123's suggestion (to try calibrating colors at 75% saturation). Thanks again guys

Looking forward to more tips and suggestions.

TV: 55ES8000 Panel: TSO1; Colorimeter: Colormunki Display, Software: HCFR, Discs: AVS 709, Disney WoW

Backlight 8 (38 ftL)
Contrast 100
Brightness 45
Sharpness 5 (preference)
Color 48
Tint 50/50
Color Space: Custom
Red 52 0 0
Green 7 52 1
Blue 1 6 49
Yellow 53 51 0
Cyan 0 54 58
Magenta 49 5 52
White Balance 24 25 23 40 40 18
10 Pt White Balance: On
1 . +1, 0, -2
2. +1, +1, +1
3. +1, +1, +1
4. +2, +1, 0
5. +1, 0, -2
6. 0, +2, -3
7. 0, 2, -1
8. 0, +1, 0
9. 0, 0, 0
10. 0, 0, 0
Gamma: +1
Color Tone: Warm 2
Auto Motion Plus: Clear
All other dynamic settings are off

Notes:
Fisrt off, I did exactly what 10k suggested: to mute my tv while doing greyscale measurements (to make sure the backlight is always on, especially at 0 IRE) to get a proper contrast ratio reading. In the end, I got a Gamma of 2.20 and average delta E of 0.27 with a contrast ration of 2419:1. Now, I don't know what a good/acceptable contrast ratio for this tv is, I know I only had 1500:1 before all suggestions from Zoyd, 10k, and Turboman123.
Secondly, I re-did my whole color calibration using 75% saturation this time (not 100%). I did the whole process again: set color and tint then the advanced CMS. I adjusted my hues and saturations to make sure my primaries and secondaries are close to their x/y values (with “acceptable" errors) and Y (luminance) values consistent, with delta Es for each color below 1.0. So, I ended up with average delta E of 0.24 (down from 0.38 the last time) with delta luminance no more than +/-.4%.
Next thing for me to do (when I have free time again) is to check all colors at each different saturation levels in the CIE diagram and compare both 100% and 75% saturation readings to see which has the better results/measurements.
Thanks again guys!
post #16029 of 16126
hey 10k,

im interested in this 3dlut.. do you know where to get one and for how much? i know you mentioned one for non-htpc users at $700, anything less expensive?.. just curious, how do you use this without the pc?.. thanks
post #16030 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

The difference is pretty big when using 3dlut. I was able to greatly improve standard mode. Check out this comparison of charts with/without:
My Standard Mode calibration based on TV controls alone:



Standard Mode with 3dlut


Will you post your new settings for Standard viewing? I use your current settings now, and would love to try your new ones...:-)
Thanks!
post #16031 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by prme19 View Post

hey 10k,

im interested in this 3dlut.. do you know where to get one and for how much? i know you mentioned one for non-htpc users at $700, anything less expensive?.. just curious, how do you use this without the pc?.. thanks
The cheapest non-htpc solution I am aware of is the eecolor box, which is about $700 from user ConecTEDD in the display calibration forum. For content driven from a PC you can use the free madvr software with argyll cms to create a 3dlut and display video content with 3dlut correction. I do this with Zoomplayer but other players such as MPC-HC work as well.

Here is the 3dlut madvr page, I used the procedure in post #1, you will need a meter to do this - http://www.avsforum.com/t/1471169/madvr-argyllcms
Here is the thread about using argyllcms with the eecolor processor - http://www.avsforum.com/t/1464890/eecolor-processor-argyllcms
Quote:
Will you post your new settings for Standard viewing? I use your current settings now, and would love to try your new ones...:-)
Thanks!
I haven't changed my settings. That 2nd graph is from the PC software I referenced above which does further corrections.
post #16032 of 16126
After some more reading and experimenting I tried calibrating Standard mode.
Thanks again to 10K, turboman123, and others for your suggestions. I found out just how really bad my eyes are when I started over. My previously posted settings stink on ice by comparison.

My thought process this time was to go for color accuracy at 75%S and 75%A with hue being the most important factor during adjustment. Evidently the human eye detects differences in hue more than lightness and saturation.
I used the patterns from Mascior's disc.

The difference in picture quality is day and night. Sometime this year I'll give 3D LUT a go but will have to wait until my budget can afford that shock... be it the HTPC or eeColor route.

Here are my Standard settings.

ES8000 TS01 panel, i1Display 3, Chromapure.
STD Settings (Click to show)
Backlight 11
Contrast 72
Brightness 44
Color 50
Tint 50/50

WB: 25, 24, 23, 50, 48, 11
Color Space
Red 31, 0, 0
Green 16, 48, 0
Blue 0, 2 49
Yellow 53, 48, 0
Cyan 13, 51, 51
Magenta 33, 2, 48

Gamma -1
Color Tone Warm2
All dynamic adjustments off

And here are the charts. STD Mode Charts (Click to show)





With these settings I achieved a contrast ratio of 1:2500 and a gamma of 2.3. 2.2 gamma seemed too light to me.

Using the same 75% philosophy I tried to get Movie mode to match as closely as possible to my STD mode settings.
I left my Custom Color Controls to the STD mode settings with Movie mode set to Auto. Now I can switch back and forth depending on the source and programming. A compromise, yes, but I did adjust the custom color space during calibration but found that Auto wasn't different enough to be distracting.
So far I'm satisfied with the results. I default to STD mode and only use Movie mode for movies or programming that are too dark for STD mode because of dimming. The results are VERY close to STD. Hardly noticeable during normal viewing.

If anyone is interested here are my Movie mode settings. No charts because except for the color tracking (Auto mode) they are very similar to STD. I was able to get a contrast ratio of 1:2246.
I may revisit these settings in the future because there was a bit of color clipping around 95% for green but it isn't noticeable in normal programming. Movie Settings (Click to show)
Backlight 13
Contrast 100
Brightness 44
Color 47
Tint 50/50

WB: 25, 25, 23, 35, 32, 8
Color Space
Red 44, 2, 0
Green 5, 47, 3
Blue 0, 7, 52
Yellow 50, 47, 2
Cyan 4, 50, 50
Magenta 45, 6, 47

10p WB
1: -1,-1,-2
2: 0,0,1
3: 0,0,1
4: 1,0,0
5: 1,0,-1
6: 1,1,0
7: 1,1,0
8: 1,1,2
9: 1,1,2
10: 0,0,3

Color Tone Warm2
Gamma 0
Dynamic Contrast: Low
All other dynamic settings OFF

Edited by easton1813 - 1/19/14 at 12:30pm
post #16033 of 16126
Easton1813, I looked at various methods of calibrating standard mode and various methods of measuring the results. Check out the charts and HCFR .chc files I posted in the 2nd half of this post - http://www.avsforum.com/t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/2940#post_24206797

The final conclusion was that it doesnt matter if you calibrate standard mode with full fields or APL patterns, the only difference is an adjustment to make in gamma settings.
post #16034 of 16126
10K, thanks for that link. I had already read that post prior to my most recent calibration. I chose to stay with an APL pattern just for the sake of consistency so I could compare my old and new results.
It is very interesting how little of an effect full-field has on calibrating STD mode. Originally I would have thought the dimming feature would have thrown the gamma totally out of whack.

I wish Samsung would have offered a second Standard mode to choose from the same way we have Cal-Day and Cal-Night for Movie mode. When messing with Movie mode I use the Cal selections to switch back and forth so I can test the subjective picture quality differences.

Thank you for your exhaustive testing and detailed reporting. Your earlier posts are what inspired me to stop using others' settings and get into this hobby for myself.
post #16035 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by easton1813 View Post

After some more reading and experimenting I tried calibrating Standard mode.
Thanks again to 10K, turboman123, and others for your suggestions. I found out just how really bad my eyes are when I started over. My previously posted settings stink on ice by comparison.

My thought process this time was to go for color accuracy at 75%S and 75%A with hue being the most important factor during adjustment. Evidently the human eye detects differences in hue more than lightness and saturation.
I used the patterns from Mascior's disc.

The difference in picture quality is day and night. Sometime this year I'll give 3D LUT a go but will have to wait until my budget can afford that shock... be it the HTPC or eeColor route.

Here are my Standard settings.

ES8000 TS01 panel, i1Display 3, Chromapure.
STD Settings (Click to show)
Backlight 11
Contrast 72
Brightness 44
Color 50
Tint 50/50

WB: 25, 24, 23, 50, 48, 11
Color Space
Red 31, 0, 0
Green 16, 48, 0
Blue 0, 2 49
Yellow 53, 48, 0
Cyan 13, 51, 51
Magenta 33, 2, 48

Gamma -1
Color Tone Warm2
All dynamic adjustments off

And here are the charts. STD Mode Charts (Click to show)





With these settings I achieved a contrast ratio of 1:2500 and a gamma of 2.3. 2.2 gamma seemed too light to me.

Using the same 75% philosophy I tried to get Movie mode to match as closely as possible to my STD mode settings.
I left my Custom Color Controls to the STD mode settings with Movie mode set to Auto. Now I can switch back and forth depending on the source and programming. A compromise, yes, but I did adjust the custom color space during calibration but found that Auto wasn't different enough to be distracting.
So far I'm satisfied with the results. I default to STD mode and only use Movie mode for movies or programming that is too dark for STD mode because of dimming. The results are VERY close to STD. Hardly noticeable during normal viewing.

If anyone is interested here are my Movie mode settings. No charts because except for the color tracking (Auto mode) they are very similar to STD. I was able to get a contrast ratio of 1:2246.
I may revisit these settings in the future because there was a bit of color clipping around 95% for green but it isn't noticeable in normal programming. Movie Settings (Click to show)
Backlight 13
Contrast 100
Brightness 44
Color 47
Tint 50/50

WB: 25, 25, 23, 35, 32, 8
Color Space
Red 44, 2, 0
Green 5, 47, 3
Blue 0, 7, 52
Yellow 50, 47, 2
Cyan 4, 50, 50
Magenta 45, 6, 47

10p WB
1: -1,-1,-2
2: 0,0,1
3: 0,0,1
4: 1,0,0
5: 1,0,-1
6: 1,1,0
7: 1,1,0
8: 1,1,2
9: 1,1,2
10: 0,0,3

Color Tone Warm2
Gamma 0
Dynamic Contrast: Low
All other dynamic settings OFF

I dont know if its my panel, but everytime I check blue gain on mine I need to set it to 0 otherwise I have huge blue push.
post #16036 of 16126
Mavinwow, I had to do the same thing before as well. I think the TS01 naturally has a blue push for most folks.
My setting of 11 is due mostly because I bumped up the red and green gains to 50 and 48 respectively. This was to squeeze as much contrast out of my panel as I could.
10K has posted similar settings but mine differ a bit because when I set green to 50 I didn't have enough red even though it too was maxed out. I imagine this is because of minor panel differences or calibrating techniques.

My goal was to maximize contrast and yet keep clipping to a minimum. So far I'm happy with what I've found. smile.gif

edit: Sorry, I noticed you were probably referencing my Movie mode settings. I set my red and green gains higher as well in Movie mode. I bet that may be the key.
Edited by easton1813 - 1/19/14 at 1:43pm
post #16037 of 16126
It's nice to see this thread isn't totally dead now. Obviously I haven't been around in a while and just checked my ES8000/Evo Kit and noticed a new FW update (1011). That gave me the idea to check in and see what was going on in the thread again. Looks like the calibration stuff is still going strong. It's been a while since I calibrated my TV so I'm probably going to go through it all again soon. I think this time I'll use the 75% saturation. It's been so long since I've messed with HCFR that I don't remember if there's a setting for doing that calibration or not (I'm assuming so). I'll have to reboot my Mac into Windows and check it out before doing the calibration. I'm assuming there's new versions of HCFR as well since I haven't updated that in probably 8 or 9 months. Is there a preferred version of HCFR I should be using?

10k- Man you're charts are crazy good! You've come a long way in this calibration stuff since we got those meters. Nice work!
post #16038 of 16126
Hey prme19- I'm just wondering why you have Color set to 48 if you're using CMS to set the colors. Is there a reason you did that?
post #16039 of 16126
Jestered,
Thanks buddy! I had put the meter away for over 6 months but had been casually following the madvr + argyllcms 3dlut development. Sometime in December it got to a user-friendly spot so I gave it a go. The difference the 3dlut makes is pretty amazing. I'm seriously considering buying that eecolor box so that I can get 3dlut calibration for all video sources, it's that good.
post #16040 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

Hey prme19- I'm just wondering why you have Color set to 48 if you're using CMS to set the colors. Is there a reason you did that?

Hey Jestered,

As per CurtPalme, I set Color to 48 first to get red luminance down to 21% of 100 IRE white pattern initially, then I was supposed to adjust Tint (by using cyan this time) but didn't have to because the secondaries' x/y coordinates were already close to reference, then I just adjusted CMS afterwards to get x/y and luminance for the rest of the primaries and secondaries. (i had to go back to red and cyan still, to make sure it still is at reference). Coincidentally, I also set color to 48 when i was just using the disney wow disc with the blue film.
Edited by prme19 - 1/27/14 at 3:45pm
post #16041 of 16126
There's a new update on the CurtPalme thread as of January 2014, using the chromapure software. Since i dont have that software yet, i have to mix the old and updated methods when i calibrated my TV. Though I would like to get my hands on that chromapure software/cd and an appropriate colorimeter as well as the eecolor box, when i have some spare cash.
post #16042 of 16126
After re-reading the updated CurtPalme thread, it seems like I dont have to adjust Color/Tint before setting CMS, i can just go straight to CMS, is this right?.. Hmm, i'll probably have to try recalibrating my colors again with Color at 50 and just do the CMS to see if it will give me lower Delta Es.. Thanks Jestered for catching that..
post #16043 of 16126
Yes don't bother with color/tint if you have cms controls. Cms is a scalpel, color/tint is a sledgehammer
post #16044 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

Yes don't bother with color/tint if you have cms controls. Cms is a scalpel, color/tint is a sledgehammer

Ok, thanks 10k.. Will have to redo my color calibration then..
post #16045 of 16126
If you got a good result it probably is fine as is smile.gif
post #16046 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10k View Post

Jestered,
Thanks buddy! I had put the meter away for over 6 months but had been casually following the madvr + argyllcms 3dlut development. Sometime in December it got to a user-friendly spot so I gave it a go. The difference the 3dlut makes is pretty amazing. I'm seriously considering buying that eecolor box so that I can get 3dlut calibration for all video sources, it's that good.

I never paid any attention to that calibration because I'm not using a HTPC. I haven't read anything about it, but I figured that it was creating some sort of display profile on the computer. Basically fixing anything that's being displayed poorly on the TV by changing it before it got to the TV. Is that correct? If so, then I have to assume that this eeColor box is basically doing the same thing. Fixing/adjusting the calibration before it gets to the TV. That's pretty freaking nice if you can fine tune non-HTPC stuff the way you've done. I'm assuming the box is limited to how many devices can connect to it, but I have everything running through my AVR anyway, so I would only need one in and one out for it to work on all my components. I'm very interested in that. Expensive, but that hasn't stopped me before. Of course the wife will never know how much that box costs. I'll have to read up on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by prme19 View Post

Ok, thanks 10k.. Will have to redo my color calibration then..

As 10k said, I wouldn't bother re-doing it just for that. Just wait until the next time you are doing it and make the change then.
post #16047 of 16126
does anyone know if there's any clear distinguishable improvements between Firmware 1046, and the later ones? i've been away from this thread for many months now, and over the course have noticed there were couple subsequent firmware updates that came out while i was gone.
Edited by howzz1854 - 1/28/14 at 4:36pm
post #16048 of 16126
Hi, my cousin purchased the un60es8000 a little over a year ago and now it won't turn on. All it does is click. It is out of warranty. Does any one know if it's worth fixing and how much it would cost.?
post #16049 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by marky12 View Post

Hi, my cousin purchased the un60es8000 a little over a year ago and now it won't turn on. All it does is click. It is out of warranty. Does any one know if it's worth fixing and how much it would cost.?

If your brother bought it new paying with a credit card, the credit card might have the benefit of a 1 year warranty extension. Otherwise, I don't know how much it would cost to fix it.
post #16050 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by marky12 View Post

Hi, my cousin purchased the un60es8000 a little over a year ago and now it won't turn on. All it does is click. It is out of warranty. Does any one know if it's worth fixing and how much it would cost.?

If I remember correctly there's only two main boards in the TV. It's basically a panel (the whole TV), a couple of boards, and the small bluetooth/wifi modules and camera. There's really not much to it. When I was trying to figure out whether or not I was going to purchase an extended warranty I went to find out how much those two boards costs, since one of those boards is likely going to fix anything that goes wrong with the TV (unless you bust the panel). I think they were only about $150 each. That's pretty cheap when you consider how much these TVs cost. I decided that I would rather save the money on the extended warranty and simply buy the board(s) if it ever failed to work. Those prices may have changed since then, so I would check on that.

Even if your cousin isn't capable of replacing the board themself, as long as the parts are still somewhere around that price, I'm sure he can pay an actual repair person to install a new board for not much $$$.
Edited by Jestered - 1/29/14 at 9:54am
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