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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 59

post #1741 of 15295
7/18/12 at 4:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Well if that information is correct regarding HDMI 1 being pc only then it should be available somewhere. If I called Samsung on this would they actually give me any accurate info on that or would they play the "stupid" game?

Hi,

Have a look at the quick quide here - It seems to be the most detailed of the ones listed there. Look at page 20 and then thereafter:

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/UN65ES8000FXZA

Just doing a quick scan through the pdf indicates there may be some limitations with HDMI(DVI) but the aforementioned page 20 states:

"Using an HDMI Cable for an HD connection (up to 1080p, HD digital signals)
For the best quality HD picture, we recommend using an HDMI connection.
Use with DVD players, Blu-ray players, HD cable boxes, and HD Set-Top-Box satellite receivers." and it then shows a diagram with such a device connecting to any of the 3 HDMI inputs.

Edit: I did a more detailed search through the pdf and I actually did not see any restrictions mentioned for HDMI IN 1 (DVI)
Edited by PeterG - 7/18/12 at 7:10pm
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post #1742 of 15295
7/18/12 at 6:13pm
I believe HDMI1/DVI can be used for both types of connections/sources. I can't see any reason why you wouldn't be able to connect something like a STB or BD player (or video game console) to the first HDMI port.

Also, to quote CNET (and certain professional calibrators on the display calibration section of the forum):

"the Samsung passed my 1080i de-interlacing test with its Film Mode set to Auto1, not to the default Auto 2 setting."

http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/samsung-un55es8000/4505-6482_7-35118272-2.html?tag=rvwBody;paginate

In other words, if you want the TV to properly de-interlace film content in 1080i, you must use the "Auto1" setting. This is relevant when watching movies on TV.

For the record, this has always been the case with Samsung and with the right test patterns/test video clips anyone can verify this for themselves. I believe the Spears & Munsil HD Benchmark Blu-ray Disc might have some good patterns to confirm this. The AVS disc also had a pattern for this a while back but the latest version (which I have) no longer has it.
Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 7/18/12 at 6:19pm
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post #1743 of 15295
7/18/12 at 7:02pm
Eagle... I use HDMI 1 for my AVR input which accommodates my Fios set top box, HTPC, XBOX 360 & PS3 all using HDMI cables. I don't experience any frame drops. I had no idea we shouldn't use HDMI 1, that sounds ridiculous. I find it hard to believe that Samsung has this port reserved strictly for PC use. That would be horrible if we technically only have 2 useable HDMI ports where as most tv's nowadays have 4!!!

Nitra... What's your opinion on the panel uniformity using Standard mode vs. Movie mode as Darth indicated in his photos? What's the difference with processing or dimming technologies in these modes?
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post #1744 of 15295
7/18/12 at 7:33pm
So it's official. The Samsung UN75ES9000 has been announced by Samsung. Here is the article I read about it on CNET Today: http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/samsung-un75es9000/4505-6482_7-35123264.html

I know the starting list price based on what Samsung is saying is $9,999, but based on the ES8000 Series, the TV should be around $1,500 cheaper than that. The list price for the 65ES8000 on Samsung's website is over $5,000, but you can buy it almost everywhere for $3,799. I'm assuming that will be the case for the 75ES9000. I'm thinking anywhere between $8,000-$8,500. It will be interesting to find out if it's full array local dimming or edge lit. Unfortunately, it doesn't sound like there will be a 75ES8000. According to all the reports, the 75" is getting it's own series which is the 9000. Looks like I might be getting my money back on the VT50 I just bought smile.gif
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post #1745 of 15295
7/19/12 at 5:54am
So, with all this discussion on HDMI ports and which one to use, can it be said that HDMI port 1 can support a Uverse digital box?

I'm planning to mainly watch regular HD TV and occasional movies on our PS3. Nothing fancy here.

3 hookups is really all I'm looking at.

1. Uverse box to TV - HDMI
2. PS3 to AVR out to TV - HDMI
3. Cat6 network cable from Uverse gateway to TV
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post #1746 of 15295
7/19/12 at 6:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Op's Guy View Post

So, with all this discussion on HDMI ports and which one to use, can it be said that HDMI port 1 can support a Uverse digital box?
I'm planning to mainly watch regular HD TV and occasional movies on our PS3. Nothing fancy here.
3 hookups is really all I'm looking at.
1. Uverse box to TV - HDMI
2. PS3 to AVR out to TV - HDMI
3. Cat6 network cable from Uverse gateway to TV

I'm pretty sure you will be fine on HDMI 1. Any of the three HDMI ports should work just fine. I do know though that if your using a AVR, you should plug that into the ARC HDMI port which is labeled as ARC (but anything will work when plugged into that port). It's kinda like a power center where it labels HDTV, Receiver, blu ray player etc. But the reality is you can plug anything into them and it all works the same.
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post #1747 of 15295
7/19/12 at 6:11am
"And, at the end of the day, the results of calibration should be the same even if you start on Movie Mode or Standard so I'll suggest that, if you're just tired of the cloudiness, light bleeds and un-even uniformity just give the standard mode a try before dismissing it off. The only thing you're gona miss it's the 10p White Balance and the Black Enhancer but... the picture just looks incredible anyway. And most importantly, just use the settings YOU are comfortable with not just some random suggestion from some over-enthusiast reviewer at some random site (David Katsmaier I'm lookin at you! I wasted so much time with the PNE8000 and VT50 even when my eyes where telling me that this LED was far more sexy )"

..exactly...well put Darth!

NITRA!!!

regarding "Don't use HDMI port 1.
HDMI port 1 is meant for Computer use only. (I wish Samsung would detail this more in the manual."....Would you please expand upon and clarify what this is all about? Right now I have hdmi assigned to my bluray player. What precisely are the drawbacks, what will i see...or not see, that will make me swap inputs. I assigned hdmi2 to FIOS, hdmi3 to my HDdvd player.

If there are issues I could move Bluray to hdmi3 and assign the HDdvd player to the unused component in. That Tosh hd player is a superior DVD player as well as supports my 30 disk hd library.
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post #1748 of 15295
7/19/12 at 6:57am
I'd also like to know the benefit of having my pc plugged into HDMI 1 as opposed to HDMI 2 or 3. What would I be gaining by plugging my pc into port 1 versus 2 or 3?
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post #1749 of 15295
7/19/12 at 8:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I'd also like to know the benefit of having my pc plugged into HDMI 1 as opposed to HDMI 2 or 3. What would I be gaining by plugging my pc into port 1 versus 2 or 3?


Try it.

Plug your PC into HDMI1, change the source to HDMI1, press the tools button, and rename the HDMI1 source to PC.
You may need to power cycle the TV after making the change.
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post #1750 of 15295
7/19/12 at 8:24am
The main benefit of using the first HDMI port for PC use is that it has a separate input for DVI audio (in case you're using a DVI to HDMI cable). This is why it's called HDMI1/DVI. Aside from support for DVI connections (which need a separate audio connection), there is no real benefit AFAIK to using the first input over the other two. The PC label can also be used on any HDMI input.
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post #1751 of 15295
7/19/12 at 8:25am
Yes, it can, but the reduced processing only occurs on HDMI1.
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post #1752 of 15295
7/19/12 at 8:26am
I use both Standard and Movie Mode.

I use standard for tv and watching a movie with a lot of pop to it. I use movie mode when watching a darker movie so I can still see all of the detail. Standard mode will adjust the brightness depending on how bright or dark your scene is. When it is a dark scene, it will turn down the brightness. That is probably why people report less flashlighting and clouding on standard mode, but it also makes it harder to see what is actually happening in the scene since it is crushing the blacks.
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post #1753 of 15295
7/19/12 at 8:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post

Yes, it can, but the reduced processing only occurs on HDMI1.

I believe once you apply the PC label on any HDMI input, the picture settings become more limited and various video processing features like AMP are disabled. However, this may require a (HDMI) RGB signal, not (HDMI) YCbCr. My observations are based on other Samsung LCDs, but I think the above still applies.
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post #1754 of 15295
7/19/12 at 8:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronwalker1974 View Post

I use both Standard and Movie Mode.
I use standard for tv and watching a movie with a lot of pop to it. I use movie mode when watching a darker movie so I can still see all of the detail. Standard mode will adjust the brightness depending on how bright or dark your scene is. When it is a dark scene, it will turn down the brightness. That is probably why people report less flashlighting and clouding on standard mode, but it also makes it harder to see what is actually happening in the scene since it is crushing the blacks.

this feature is called auto-dimming (backlight)... the bad part about it is that it is global dimming, not local

Certain Samsung LEDs/LCDs in 2011 had this feature in all picture modes and there was no way to disable it, not even in the service menu. I actually ended up returning one for a LG, which has no such feature in any picture mode. (To be fair, though, I had several other reasons for returning it as well, not just auto-dimming.)
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post #1755 of 15295
7/19/12 at 8:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

this feature is called auto-dimming (backlight)... the bad part about it is that it is global dimming, not local
Certain Samsung LEDs/LCDs in 2011 had this feature in all picture modes and there was no way to disable it, not even in the service menu. I actually ended up returning one for a LG, which has no such feature in any picture mode. (To be fair, though, I had several other reasons for returning it as well, not just auto-dimming.)

I wish samsung would let us demo Micro dimming Ultimate on this panel. Like with micro dimming ultimate and without micro dimming ultimate. You can demo it in store demo mode only though. I hope they add a demo in a firmware update. It will really take all the confusion and questions people have about it to rest.

Edit - I know that micro dimming ultimate is not the same as "Auto Dimming" I am very interested on how Samsung is doing Micro dimming and I think it would be nice to have a demo and see how it really effects the PQ.
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post #1756 of 15295
7/19/12 at 10:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post

Try it.
Plug your PC into HDMI1, change the source to HDMI1, press the tools button, and rename the HDMI1 source to PC.
You may need to power cycle the TV after making the change.

Well me plugging the pc into port 1 and looking at it is unfortunately not going to tell me much if there's some background processing that is either disabled or enabled. How would I know what minute things Samsung has done to differentiate the ports? Is it that obvious?
Edited by eagle_2 - 7/19/12 at 10:24am
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post #1757 of 15295
7/19/12 at 10:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

this feature is called auto-dimming (backlight)... the bad part about it is that it is global dimming, not local
Certain Samsung LEDs/LCDs in 2011 had this feature in all picture modes and there was no way to disable it, not even in the service menu. I actually ended up returning one for a LG, which has no such feature in any picture mode. (To be fair, though, I had several other reasons for returning it as well, not just auto-dimming.)

So then it's still ideal to use Movie mode to avoid crushing blacks and avoid auto-dimming?
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post #1758 of 15295
7/19/12 at 10:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

I believe once you apply the PC label on any HDMI input, the picture settings become more limited and various video processing features like AMP are disabled. However, this may require a (HDMI) RGB signal, not (HDMI) YCbCr. My observations are based on other Samsung LCDs, but I think the above still applies.

HDTVtest listed this under their specs for the ES8000:

Full 4:4:4 reproduction (PC) - Yes, if 60hz signal and input set to “PC” (on any input)

This seems to suggest that the benefit of 4:4:4 reproduction for pc can be applied to any input as long as it is labeled "pc". Can anybody elaborate more on this, and explain why 4:4:4 is desirable for pc?

I'm still trying to decide what to do with my setup. My pc , media players, dvd player and blu-ray player are all going into my receiver via HDMI and then the receiver is connected to HDMI port 2. The only other thing plugged into the tv directly is FiOS which is in port 1 currently.

It seems ideally I should have the pc plugged into the tv separately and labeled "pc" but then I'd lose surround sound from my pc over HDMI. I could run optical from my pc to the receiver but it's a neverending nightmare trying to get ac3filter to work properly with 5.1 and optical. With HDMI it's so simple. I could keep it as is but then I wouldn't be getting the 4:4:4 reproduction.

What if I just changed the label of HDMI port 2 to "pc" whenever I switch my receiver to pc input for gaming or whatever, then I would get the benefit of 4:4:4, and then I could just change the label back after I exit my receiver out of pc input? It's an extra small step to remember to change the label but wouldn't that work? I don't think the tv would care if I switched the HDMI port 2 label back and forth regularly would it?
Edited by eagle_2 - 7/19/12 at 10:33am
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post #1759 of 15295
7/19/12 at 10:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

So then it's still ideal to use Movie mode to avoid crushing blacks and avoid auto-dimming?

Movie mode for me when watching TV/Movies. What people dont seem to understand is that Standard mode has way over saturated colors that are not life like. Some people may prefer this look. I just used the CNET settings for the ES8000 and the picture is awesome! I was using Nitra's which were also very good, but I do notice the CNET ones look much more colorful and brighter. I can see a bit more detail (Backlight set to 13 still but eco set to bottom out at 9 as opposed to 4) The reason for the 9 was becasue CNET said they were using the TV in a dim room with the backlight set to 9. So 13 during day time is perfect and 9 at night is just right so you see the detail in darker scenes. I also used my WOW disc to look at some of the picture test's and using the cnet settings, the pictures from the WOW calibration disc were spot on where they were supposed to be. The backlight set to 9 in the dark still was perfect with the WOW brightness advanced and beginner test's. Also note that CNET settings have contrast set to 100. The contrast test on the WOW disc came back spot on perfect as well. So the CNET settings may be the closest thing you can get to ISF without having your set professionally calibrated.

I also have no issues with excessive clouding or flash lighting at all. The picture pops and I do not see any noticeable clouding. Even with letterbox movies.

For gaming I use Game mode with some tweaks to the settings and I have it looking really good. without game mode, playing CoD or BF3 was some huge lag spikes, even with all of the TV processing turned off from the menus. SO I keep in game mode. If you use Warm 1 and tweak the basic settings, it can look really good! For streaming movies I also calibrated my xbox HDMI to the CNET settings. So when I want to watch a streaming movie, I turn game mode off so it goes into the movie mode with the calibration settings. Then if I want to game all I have to do is turn Game mode on and all my game settings are there.
Edited by Gas0linE - 7/19/12 at 10:59am
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post #1760 of 15295
7/19/12 at 11:02am
I agree with you Gas0linE, the CNEt settings look quite amazing. With those settings plugged in the AVS disc looked spot on. I made a couple minor tweaks like setting to warm1 but really as you said I believe those settings are as close to perfect as you can get with a pro-calibration.

I'm having a hard time getting 3D mode to look as good though. The 3D is unbelievable but with the CNET settings in 3D mode it's way too bright. I'm still working on getting it dialed back a bit. I know 3D won't look as good as 2D but the issue I'm really struggling with is brightness. Even with the glasses on all the whites are way too overblown, all detail in whites are lost. Color is off quite a bit too but I've been using last year's Samsung glasses. I haven't tried the ones that came with the tv yet and I heard these have very little color tint so maybe that will improve things.

BTW, CNET said their ES8000 came with the old glasses:

"Like all Samsung 3D models, and unlike other major-brand TVs that use active 3D technology, the UNES8000 actually comes with 3D glasses: four pairs are packed into every box. They're actually the SSG-3050GBs from 2011, not the newer Samsung SSG-4100GBs from 2012."

My ES7500 came with 4 pairs of the new SSG-4100GBs, so I'm not sure if CNET was mistaken or why they got the old glasses, but the box my glasses came in are labeled SSG-4100GB.
Edited by eagle_2 - 7/19/12 at 11:07am
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post #1761 of 15295
7/19/12 at 11:08am
I have my DirecTV HD receiver plugged into HDMI 1, should I move this to HDMI 2 ?
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post #1762 of 15295
7/19/12 at 11:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I agree with you Gas0linE, the CNEt settings look quite amazing. With those settings plugged in the AVS disc looked spot on. I made a couple minor tweaks like setting to warm1 but really as you said I believe those settings are as close to perfect as you can get with a pro-calibration.
I'm having a hard time getting 3D mode to look as good though. The 3D is unbelievable but with the CNET settings in 3D mode it's way too bright. I'm still working on getting it dialed back a bit. I know 3D won't look as good as 2D but the issue I'm really struggling with is brightness. Even with the glasses on all the whites are way too overblown, all detail in whites are lost. Color is off quite a bit too but I've been using last year's Samsung glasses. I haven't tried the ones that came with the tv yet and I heard these have very little color tint so maybe that will improve things.
BTW, CNET said their ES8000 came with the old glasses:
"Like all Samsung 3D models, and unlike other major-brand TVs that use active 3D technology, the UNES8000 actually comes with 3D glasses: four pairs are packed into every box. They're actually the SSG-3050GBs from 2011, not the newer Samsung SSG-4100GBs from 2012."
My ES7500 came with 4 pairs of the new SSG-4100GBs, so I'm not sure if CNET was mistaken or why they got the old glasses, but my box the glasses came in are labeled SSG-4100GB.

For 3D I am using Nitra's settings becasue in 3D 10p white is not available. I am very pleased with 3D using Nitra's calibrations. I keep my back light at 14 for 3D.

Edit - funny thing was my first es8000 came with the old 3D glasses(2011). My second ES8000 came with the new ones. Maybe they didnt have enough of the new ones manufactured at the time they were boxing them up.
Edited by Gas0linE - 7/19/12 at 11:23am
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post #1763 of 15295
7/19/12 at 11:34am
Can I copy picture settings from one source to another somehow?
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post #1764 of 15295
7/19/12 at 11:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ainatar View Post

Can I copy picture settings from one source to another somehow?

I really wish the answer is yes. I haven't figured out a way to do it but maybe somebody knows. It sure would save a lot of time when putting CNET's settings in for multiple inputs.
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post #1765 of 15295
7/19/12 at 11:49am
Not sure about Samsung, but LG and some other brands have a "Transfer To ALL inputs" feature in the Expert setting menus. Does not the owners manual contain this info? sometimes, by going to the Samsung website for your model TV, a more expensive list of instructions can be found by selecting Support for your TV.

However, that said, usually it is best to make individual settings for each input and device. When that can not be done , then the best thing is, yes, to manually copy, or transfer settings to another input.
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post #1766 of 15295
7/19/12 at 12:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hooterville View Post

I have my DirecTV HD receiver plugged into HDMI 1, should I move this to HDMI 2 ?

This would be good to know for Uverse receiver as well.
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post #1767 of 15295
7/19/12 at 1:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ainatar View Post

Can I copy picture settings from one source to another somehow?

Short answer, no.

Long answer, if you had your set professionally calibrated, the Cal-Day and Cal-Night settings will hold across all inputs, you simply swap inputs and select either one.

It's a like navigating in minesweeper when you're in the service menu, one click left, and you brick your set.
Simply entering the service menu will remove all your settings as well.

I take no responsability for people bricking their sets or entering the service menu, YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED, don't go there.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
ENABLE Day/Night modes:
It's only safe if you know exactly what you are doing. Merely right clicking on an item can trigger a chain of events that might brick your TV.

1. Start with the TV OFF. Press mute, 1, 8, 2, Power fairly rapidly. The TV will power on to the last input and in a few seconds the service menu will appear.

2. Don't do anything other than follow these instructions.

3. Arrow down to Expert and press Enter

4. Select N/D ADJ with up/down arrow key and right click to ON

5. Press the Return key

6. Select Source and either right or left arrow to ALL

7. Press the Return key twice

8. Power OFF

9. Power ON and select Cal-Day Mode.

10. Calibrate to your heart's content. Any setting you select will transfer to all inputs so you only have to enter once. The factory Modes, Dynamic, Standard, Natural, and Movie will remain unmolested
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post #1768 of 15295
7/19/12 at 1:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

So then it's still ideal to use Movie mode to avoid crushing blacks and avoid auto-dimming?

Generally, yes. Something to consider is whether the dimming occurs in dark scenes or on completely black screens only... if it's the latter, then you're not losing details in dark scenes, but the effect can still be annoying when watching something that fades to black a lot.
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post #1769 of 15295
7/19/12 at 1:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gas0linE View Post

Movie mode for me when watching TV/Movies. What people dont seem to understand is that Standard mode has way over saturated colors that are not life like. Some people may prefer this look. I just used the CNET settings for the ES8000 and the picture is awesome! I was using Nitra's which were also very good, but I do notice the CNET ones look much more colorful and brighter. I can see a bit more detail (Backlight set to 13 still but eco set to bottom out at 9 as opposed to 4) The reason for the 9 was becasue CNET said they were using the TV in a dim room with the backlight set to 9. So 13 during day time is perfect and 9 at night is just right so you see the detail in darker scenes. I also used my WOW disc to look at some of the picture test's and using the cnet settings, the pictures from the WOW calibration disc were spot on where they were supposed to be. The backlight set to 9 in the dark still was perfect with the WOW brightness advanced and beginner test's. Also note that CNET settings have contrast set to 100. The contrast test on the WOW disc came back spot on perfect as well. So the CNET settings may be the closest thing you can get to ISF without having your set professionally calibrated.
I also have no issues with excessive clouding or flash lighting at all. The picture pops and I do not see any noticeable clouding. Even with letterbox movies.
For gaming I use Game mode with some tweaks to the settings and I have it looking really good. without game mode, playing CoD or BF3 was some huge lag spikes, even with all of the TV processing turned off from the menus. SO I keep in game mode. If you use Warm 1 and tweak the basic settings, it can look really good! For streaming movies I also calibrated my xbox HDMI to the CNET settings. So when I want to watch a streaming movie, I turn game mode off so it goes into the movie mode with the calibration settings. Then if I want to game all I have to do is turn Game mode on and all my game settings are there.

Actually, the closest thing you can do short of a full ISF/THX calibration is get a setup disc like AVSHD709, Disney WOW, Spears & Munsil HD Benckmark, or DVE HD Basics and do a basic calibration yourself. Copying advanced picture settings like white balance, gamma, and Custom Color Space settings could easily make the set less accurate than the defaults for those parameters. Movie mode is the right mode to calibrate, though.
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post #1770 of 15295
7/19/12 at 1:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

HDTVtest listed this under their specs for the ES8000:
Full 4:4:4 reproduction (PC) - Yes, if 60hz signal and input set to “PC” (on any input)
This seems to suggest that the benefit of 4:4:4 reproduction for pc can be applied to any input as long as it is labeled "pc". Can anybody elaborate more on this, and explain why 4:4:4 is desirable for pc?
I'm still trying to decide what to do with my setup. My pc , media players, dvd player and blu-ray player are all going into my receiver via HDMI and then the receiver is connected to HDMI port 2. The only other thing plugged into the tv directly is FiOS which is in port 1 currently.
It seems ideally I should have the pc plugged into the tv separately and labeled "pc" but then I'd lose surround sound from my pc over HDMI. I could run optical from my pc to the receiver but it's a neverending nightmare trying to get ac3filter to work properly with 5.1 and optical. With HDMI it's so simple. I could keep it as is but then I wouldn't be getting the 4:4:4 reproduction.
What if I just changed the label of HDMI port 2 to "pc" whenever I switch my receiver to pc input for gaming or whatever, then I would get the benefit of 4:4:4, and then I could just change the label back after I exit my receiver out of pc input? It's an extra small step to remember to change the label but wouldn't that work? I don't think the tv would care if I switched the HDMI port 2 label back and forth regularly would it?

There is a thread in this forum on YCbCr 4:4:4. Read the first couple posts on it.
Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 7/19/12 at 4:56pm
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