Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 61

It does not.


This option appears to be a repackaging of the [Shadow Detail] control found on previous Samsung LCD televisions. Enabling [Black enhancer] simply dims the LED lights further during dark scenes. With this control enabled, a nearly (but not entirely) black screen measured at 0.016 cd/m2. Of course, this sort of light source manipulation isn’t for free: the trade-offs for perceptibly better blacks are that shadow details will become harder to see, and colour saturation will be lessened during these moments where the ES8000 is dimming the lights.
Edited by nitra - 7/20/12 at 7:09am

It does crush blacks, but only slightly, and only for a second or 2 when the scene changes.

No.

It was hardware, and it caused a lot more issues than it solved, there was serious haloing with it enabled as well as significant bloom.

Yes I watched HD content and the picture can look excellent, I really don't stare at gray slides all day But unfortunately on this panel the bands are visible under normal viewing conditions. Watched soccer, golf, hockey, tennis and the bands come through. I posted this to share my real-world experience with the panel I received as I believe some will find it valuable. I hope to hear mine was an extreme case, in fact part of my purchase decision on the ES8000 was professional reviews (on the 55”) and lack of comments here regarding banding.

I would call Samsung first to report the issue, and promptly return the set for another one.
If you can see bands with normal viewing, that isn't right, it's common to see them on gray screen while cycling through different IRE levels.

Considering no one buys their HDTV the moment it comes off the assembly line, the displays and packaging need to be designed for transport in real world conditions. This means bouncing around in trucks, going through air turbulence, going up and down stairs, and being moved around a warehouse numerous times by various people and equipment.

They can't account for someone just knocking the box over on its face, however that is not typical. It is easier for people working in a warehouse to NOT knock things over compared to working too quickly and having to regularly pick up huge boxes that fell down.
Edited by ocellaris - 7/20/12 at 8:34am

Guys I ran some tests using the test patterns provided on the "Official 4:4:4 / Chroma Subsampling Thread".

My pc is connected via HDMI from my Nvidia video card to my receiver, then from my receiver to HDMI port 2 of my ES7500.

Here's what I learned:

- when HDMI port 2 is not labeled "pc", both the "Quick-and-Dirty Method" and the "Belle-Nuit Method" tests fail 4:4:4

- when HDMI port 2 is labeled "pc", both the "Quick-and-Dirty Method" and the "Belle-Nuit Method" tests pass 4:4:4 with a 60Hz signal. This is with standard ethernet HDMI cables, so it handles audio with 4:4:4. This is great news.

- in game mode, both the "Quick-and-Dirty Method" and the "Belle-Nuit Method" tests fail 4:4:4

- you cannot enable game mode when the HDMI input is labeled "pc", so it's one or the other unfortunately.

So the good news is that full 4:4:4 is supported with audio when HMDI is labeled "pc" (select "source" on remote, select desired HDMI input, hit the "tools" button on the remote while the HDMI input is highlighted, select "edit name", and select "pc" in the list).

So - can anybody answer this - is the input lag in "pc" mode comparable to the input lag in "game" mode? If not, then unfortunately when using my pc for gaming on the tv, I would have to choose either "pc" for 4:4:4 and deal with lag or select "game" mode and have reduced lag but no 4:4:4. I'm hoping input lag for pc mode is similar to game mode.
Edited by eagle_2 - 7/20/12 at 10:30am

For the layman, how would one use what you are talking about? Sorry for the ignorance.

Download this image:

http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/floatpoo/444_faq/tint-blue-rgb-1080p.png

This is the "quick and dirty" method, and is the easiest to spot. View the image through your preferred media player, connected via HDMI. Here's what the official 4:4:4 thread says:

"Quick-and-Dirty Method (a.k.a., Red-Magenta Method): Make sure you’re at 100% zoom, and pay special attention to the Red and Magenta columns. On a 4:4:4 TV, the “Red” and “Magenta” text will be nice and sharp just like the text in the other columns. On a non-4:4:4 TV, the “Red” and “Magenta” text will be noticeably fuzzy, but the text in the other columns will be nice and sharp."

Just as it says, pay special attention to the text in the red and magenta boxes. Look at it first with your HDMI port labeled anything other than pc. The text in the red and magenta boxes should look quite blurry and hard to see compared to the rest of the boxes, which should be sharp and crisp. Now, label your HDMI source to "pc" as I described in my previous post, leaving the image up, and when it switches to pc mode, you should immediately notice the text in the red and magenta boxes will be much sharper and easy to read like the other boxes. Keep in mind that if you've never calibrated with the input labeled "pc" then by default it will look quite different then your calibrated modes, but don't worry about that - you just want to pay attention to the red and magenta text. If it looks sharp and readable compared to non-pc modes, then the tv supports 4:4:4 with your connection.

Here's an example of how they will appear:

http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/floatpoo/444_faq/testx_a.png

I completely agree with this, especially on big screen TVs with tiny bezels and really thin panels. Issues like flashlighting, clouding, bright spots, banding, and the like can occur or get worse when the set is not handled properly.
Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 7/20/12 at 10:36am

yes, I mean the series, not screen size

I'm still confused about the issue with HDMI port 1 being labeled pc - if I can select "pc" mode with any input (which I can), then how is that different than actually using port 1? As I demonstrated above port 2 in pc mode passes 4:4:4, so what's so special about port 1?

It would be great if I could pick up the phone and, you know, ask Samsung for some info, but from my experience, you can't trust anything they say, because half the time they don't know what they're talking about, so even when they actually know something, you won't know when to believe them.

the difference is that it also supports a DVI to HDMI cable, since there is a 3.5mm analog audio input when connecting a PC that doesn't have a HDMI out

PC mode should have significantly less input lag then not using that label. The reason for this being that many video processing features are automatically disabled (which is why the picture menu is much more sparse when you label the input PC)

the VGA input may also be a good choice for minimizing input lag when PC gaming (or even console gaming on the Xbox 360, which supports VGA output)

Sadly, this is not the case. I've seen guys from various B&M retailers handle TV boxes roughly, like when you tell them to load it into your minivan, suv, or pickup. I would never trust them to deliver it from the store to me, which is why I always pickup the TV myself from the store and drive it home very carefully.

Yeah, if you see it on normal program material, that is definitely a dealbreaker (especially for a TV in this price range). If you did only see it on test patterns, you could safely ignore it unless you're extremely picky.

regarding black enhancer (and last year's shadow detail setting), I find if you set it to the highest value possible (which was +2 last year), you can disable auto-dimming on dark scenes... it will still happen on completely black/blank screens but not when even one pixel is not black

EDIT: is black enhancer an off/on control this year or is it exactly like shadow detail (goes from -2 to +2, with a default of 0)?

Ah, I see. So if using standard HDMI cable, pc mode in port 1 and pc mode in port 2 would be the same then?

should be, AFAIK

in that case, leaving it off is the same as +2 on shadow detail

Well, just got the Samsung smart keyboard delivered. Works great. You can pretty much use it in place of either of the supplied remotes. On the browser, when you click in the URL, the usual on screen keyboard comes up. However, the instant you type on the keyboard, the on screen greys out. Still learning the features of the keyboard at the moment.

If I connected my FiOS box using component instead of HDMI, would I sacrifice sound quality coming from the tv to the soundbar? With HDMI the sound would be digital going through the HDMI, and then from the tv's optical out to the soundbar. Using component, I would just be using the ed and white analog cables for audio, from the FiOS box to the tv, and then from tv optical to the soundbar. Would HDMI provide better audio when considering the soundbar isn't surround anyways, or does the soundbar still benefit from the HDMI audio?'

Mighht be luck of panel draw, as I have had the 60 inch for a month now and no banding.

I'm going to get the 65" as soon as it will be available on shops (at least, it's not yet here in Italy).

I know in the US it's being sold since months. Do you guys have any idea why in the EU the 65" was not being shipped at the same time of the other sizes? Do you think there are any chances for the panel to be different

Did you receive your set? How is it? Will you be brave enough for these tests http://www.tested.com/news/how-to/584-how-to-spot-5-common-defects-in-your-lcd-warning-cannot-unsee/?
Edited by got3nks - 7/20/12 at 3:11pm

anybody know if the 65ES8000 is available anywhere in Orange County, CA? I'm ready to buy, but I just can't find it anywhere.