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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 63

post #1861 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by redtilldead View Post

Yes, I tried 'screen fit' but still get the black vertical bars. HD content is ok but SD doesn't fill the screen.
Any other thoughts?


This is the correct operation of the set.
There is no setting to mangle the aspect ratio of SD while leaving HD intact.
If this is what you really want, look for a zoom function on your cable box. You will however, need to zoom and unzoom when you change channels.
post #1862 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by disturbedenergy View Post

Took delivery of my UN65ES800 and thought I'd post my weekend's work. One last wire to hide - just need to get the extension cord through the wall and I'll be set. First impressions.... LOVE IT! For historical purposes, I just missed out on the UN55B8500 when I was ready to pull the trigger. Ended up with a C Series and wasn't pleased. Then went to the D8000 and *really* wasn't pleased - ended up returning it and went to the 65" VT25 just to give Plasma a chance but realized I'm just not a Plasma guy. Finally placed my order on the 65ES8000 from Best Buy last week and was delivered Saturday. Mounted with a Sanus VLT15 Running it alongside 3 Mythos XTR-50's and 2 Gems and an older, trusty Infinity HPS 1000 subwoofer powered by an SC-37 kept safe by a Panamax m5300 and directed by Harmony 900. Admittedly, was starting to lose faith in Samsung, but am VERY pleased with the 65" and have no intentions of making any other moves. In terms of the feature set, the 3D is nice - but am not a big 3D fan, but I suppose it will be fun as a toybox feature. I have no plans on using the motion or voice control - but at least now - neither are very impressive - but didn't exactly buy it for those features anyhow. I'm using the CNET settings for now and will tweak from there.

Setup looks great. Just finished up the area where my 65" will be hanging on the wall yesterday for arrival tomorrow. Enjoy the new TV
post #1863 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by isupes View Post

Hey man, I'm not sure where you ordered your TV from, but the price went down some more on Amazon. Called today to get them to price match it and got 300 bucks back. Anyway, just wanted to let you know incase you ordered from Amazon.

Thanks. Already acted on it.
post #1864 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by darth_cocatiel View Post

I'm not so sure about that... when I use the AVS disc with the backight at 20 for example I can see a scorching bright white and a super deep black in the SAME screen test (the one that have the black and white scales on the same test pattern); whiter and blacker than anything I've tested so far with any setting in Movie mode.
If the reason for the deeper blacks in Standard mode it's the auto-dimming of the back light I would see as consequence dimmer whites as well and that is not the case in the same test pattern. The micro-dimming have to be working at some capacity to produce deeper blacks and brighter whites at the same time in the same screen, and that I believe it's something that can't be explained by back lighting auto-dimming alone.
Any thoughts?

I would have to say this is Dynamic contrast. In standard mode I think its set to Medium. Dynamic Contrast will make blacks much richer/darker and even make whites pop more, but they will crush the blacks and you will lose a lot of shadow and finer detail in darker scenes. I tested this over the weekend. I can make move mode look just like Standard if I put all the stuff that crushes blacks on like it is in Standard Mode. The TV itself is not doing any other processing methods in standard vs movie other than settings like Dynamic contrast, Black tone, etc. Again all those settings crush blacks and you lose shadow detail. I also talked to a Samsung Technician over the weekend and assured me that Micro-Dimming is working the same in all picture modes and cannot be turned off. It's something that is always on and is not related to any feature in the TV that can be turned on/off.

Some people like over saturated/crushed look. I however like a more realistic natural look for my movies with really nice detail in dark scenes. I am not sure why you keep talking about crazy clouding and flash lighting in movie mode? I am using the cnet settings and Nitra's before that and I have no noticeable clouding or flash lighting in Movie mode. The blacks are inky as can be to the eye day or night, even if the movie is letterbox the bars are really black at night.

As far as gaming, I use game mode with some tweaks to the settings and I got it looking really good. I use game mode because I play a lot of FPS games like CoD and BF. Without game mode there is about a 150- 200 MS lag time with the controller. Game mode on this is reduced a lot and feels a lot better. Game mode can look good as long as you tweak it. The default preset settings look horrible. I also turn off Dynamic contrast and any other enhancement that will crush blacks in game mode. No clouding or flash lighting doing that also. My first set had some noticeable clouding, my second set was pretty damn flawless with clouding only barely vi-sable if the back light was at 20 and I had a pure black screen up (in movie mode) Just keep in mind that with dynamic contrast set to medium and/or black tone etc on, your video games are losing detail (especially darker games like Gears of war 3) Black crush is no good and you lose a good portion of the detail by using it, but it will make blacks look deeper and therefor make whites look whiter.
Edited by Gas0linE - 7/23/12 at 7:23am
post #1865 of 16125
Finally pulled the trigger on a universal remote for my 60es8000 and gear. The Harmony One is an amazing match for this tv. Seemless control of the whole shabang...and it keeps family member from tweaking in error.

Cinema heaven.
post #1866 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Op's Guy View Post

Thanks. Already acted on it.

Looks like we'll be getting our TV's on the same day. CEVA decided to take there sweet ass time with this one. Little annoyed. Amazon was very cool at least and gave me full refund for shipping. Anyways, sorry I couldn't give you any early feedback on the TV.
post #1867 of 16125
We just ordered a 60ES8000 yesterday and are taking delivery this Saturday.

For initial set-up, I gather from this thread that using HDMI 2 and HDMI 3 for my two HDMI sources is preferred; i.e., avoid using HDMI 1. And Movie mode is a good place to start.

Until / if I get an ISF calibration, I've found three sets of settings to try from nitra, CNET, and darth_cocatiel. I assume these settings do not require you to go into the Service Menu and are safe to try.

This set is replacing a 50" 720p Samsung DLP RPTV. It is going into a combination kitchen / family room and will be used for watching TV, enjoying movies, and providing the video for my wife's karaoke.

I noticed Amazon is advertising this set for less money than what I thought was the Samsung approved selling price. How do they do that?

As an aside, I had visited a local store last weekend where they had a Sony 929 set placed just above an LG 9600 set, both 55", playing the same feed from Avatar, and the salesman said both were in movie mode. There was a 60" ES8000 in a different location in the same room playing a different feed and the picture did not look good. I was interested in the LG set so on that day I did not do anything further with the Samsung but spent a good amount of time comparing the Sony to the LG. I thought the colors on the LG were more to my liking than the Sony, which I thought was a bit muted in comparison.

Yesterday I took my wife with me to the same store for her to see the Sony and LG sets and what I thought would be us finalizing a decision to buy the LG. This time I still thought the colors on the LG were better than the Sony, but for some reason the overall PQ of the LG wasn't as appealing (black level? resolution?).

We ventured over the Samsung and asked the salesman to play Avatar on the 60ES8000. We were impresssed and bought that set both for the PQ and for being a slightly larger screen size. Yesterday was the first time I've been able to see the same source material in a representative room environment where I could compare Sony vs LG vs Samsung.

Thanks
Bruce
post #1868 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceOmega View Post

We just ordered a 60ES8000 yesterday and are taking delivery this Saturday.
For initial set-up, I gather from this thread that using HDMI 2 and HDMI 3 for my two HDMI sources is preferred; i.e., avoid using HDMI 1. And Movie mode is a good place to start.
Until / if I get an ISF calibration, I've found three sets of settings to try from nitra, CNET, and darth_cocatiel. I assume these settings do not require you to go into the Service Menu and are safe to try.
This set is replacing a 50" 720p Samsung DLP RPTV. It is going into a combination kitchen / family room and will be used for watching TV, enjoying movies, and providing the video for my wife's karaoke.
I noticed Amazon is advertising this set for less money than what I thought was the Samsung approved selling price. How do they do that?
As an aside, I had visited a local store last weekend where they had a Sony 929 set placed just above an LG 9600 set, both 55", playing the same feed from Avatar, and the salesman said both were in movie mode. There was a 60" ES8000 in a different location in the same room playing a different feed and the picture did not look good. I was interested in the LG set so on that day I did not do anything further with the Samsung but spent a good amount of time comparing the Sony to the LG. I thought the colors on the LG were more to my liking than the Sony, which I thought was a bit muted in comparison.
Yesterday I took my wife with me to the same store for her to see the Sony and LG sets and what I thought would be us finalizing a decision to buy the LG. This time I still thought the colors on the LG were better than the Sony, but for some reason the overall PQ of the LG wasn't as appealing (black level? resolution?).
We ventured over the Samsung and asked the salesman to play Avatar on the 60ES8000. We were impresssed and bought that set both for the PQ and for being a slightly larger screen size. Yesterday was the first time I've been able to see the same source material in a representative room environment where I could compare Sony vs LG vs Samsung.
Thanks
Bruce

Congrats on your purchase! You will love it! Let us know when you get it and your thoughts.
post #1869 of 16125
F**k it. I made a blind purchase on Amazon. Should have my set on Saturday morning via scheduled delivery.
post #1870 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceOmega View Post

I noticed Amazon is advertising this set for less money than what I thought was the Samsung approved selling price. How do they do that?

The prices on almost all of the 2012 Samsung TVs have been falling for a few weeks now. Presumably Samsung is lowering the minimum advertised pricing and some retailers are jumping on it before others.
post #1871 of 16125
Blah, was mulling over which size to get last night (60 or 65) and it seems the price have already gone back up to the normal price. Should of jumped yesterday when they were $300 cheaper.
post #1872 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

Finally pulled the trigger on a universal remote for my 60es8000 and gear. The Harmony One is an amazing match for this tv. Seemless control of the whole shabang...and it keeps family member from tweaking in error.
Cinema heaven.

Nice, that is a nice remote, I have one myself, but I may buy another for my ES8000. Also, May I ask what picture settings you are using on your ES8000?
post #1873 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by AUDude View Post

Blah, was mulling over which size to get last night (60 or 65) and it seems the price have already gone back up to the normal price. Should of jumped yesterday when they were $300 cheaper.

I just ordered last night too. It must have gone up this morning. I imagine it will go down again soon.
post #1874 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gas0linE View Post

I would have to say this is Dynamic contrast. In standard mode I think its set to Medium. Dynamic Contrast will make blacks much richer/darker and even make whites pop more, but they will crush the blacks and you will lose a lot of shadow and finer detail in darker scenes. I tested this over the weekend. I can make move mode look just like Standard if I put all the stuff that crushes blacks on like it is in Standard Mode. The TV itself is not doing any other processing methods in standard vs movie other than settings like Dynamic contrast, Black tone, etc. Again all those settings crush blacks and you lose shadow detail. I also talked to a Samsung Technician over the weekend and assured me that Micro-Dimming is working the same in all picture modes and cannot be turned off. It's something that is always on and is not related to any feature in the TV that can be turned on/off.
Some people like over saturated/crushed look. I however like a more realistic natural look for my movies with really nice detail in dark scenes. I am not sure why you keep talking about crazy clouding and flash lighting in movie mode? I am using the cnet settings and Nitra's before that and I have no noticeable clouding or flash lighting in Movie mode. The blacks are inky as can be to the eye day or night, even if the movie is letterbox the bars are really black at night.
As far as gaming, I use game mode with some tweaks to the settings and I got it looking really good. I use game mode because I play a lot of FPS games like CoD and BF. Without game mode there is about a 150- 200 MS lag time with the controller. Game mode on this is reduced a lot and feels a lot better. Game mode can look good as long as you tweak it. The default preset settings look horrible. I also turn off Dynamic contrast and any other enhancement that will crush blacks in game mode. No clouding or flash lighting doing that also. My first set had some noticeable clouding, my second set was pretty damn flawless with clouding only barely vi-sable if the back light was at 20 and I had a pure black screen up (in movie mode) Just keep in mind that with dynamic contrast set to medium and/or black tone etc on, your video games are losing detail (especially darker games like Gears of war 3) Black crush is no good and you lose a good portion of the detail by using it, but it will make blacks look deeper and therefor make whites look whiter.

Ok... I hear you and understand you're point of view but I have to disagree on some points my fellow gamer. As I've said before multiple times... I've been using the SAME settings in both Standard and Movie mode and the difference in clouding and uniformity issues, in my set at least, is undeniable as the pics I posted earlier ilustrates. Even if you use the same settings with the same model as mine (UN55ES8000) you know the resuts can be completely different because of innate differences in the manufacturing process of the panel. I've been giving observations based on my specific set and the difference may not be "crazy clouding" for you but... even with the limitations of the LED technology in mind it's kind of "return-it-back-then-buy-a-plasma-and-forget-LED-till-OLED" kind of difference to my eyes!!! eek.gif Take a look again side by side if you will and then tell me, after paying $2500 for this set, that the difference is tolerable wink.gif Mind you, in normally lit viewing conditions the uniformity issues are almost negligible even in Movie mode so I'm not complaining but only trying to explain my point of view smile.gif.
Movie Mode.jpg 140k .jpg file
Standard Mode.jpg 87k .jpg file

Again, the only variable that changed between those pics is the PICTURE MODE only (and everything behind the scenes that comes with it), not the Dynamic Contrast, not the Black tone, not the Black enchancer, not the back light or anything of that sort. Therefore, if everything but the picture mode is affecting all picture modes equally, then scientific observation dictates that the picture mode must be part of the root cause to explain the difference; that's not my opinion but fact and logic deducted from the observations.
Also, if you see the settings that I posted earlier for gaming in 2D you can clearly see that I don't use Black tone or Black enhancer because, as I said in that same post "it crushes black" and I don't like that. I used the AVS disc with these settings and, again as I said before, even with Dynamic Contrast at low I can see EVERY DETAIL in the gray color scale up to the black reference standard (flashing 17 in the test pattern) and every white detail (up to the 234 reference) therefore I know I'm not loosing shadow detail and my blacks aren't being crushed. I love an oversaturated look for gaming but not crushed blacks... I love to see every dark detail in my games especially darker games like the GoW series.

Regarding input lag... yeah game mode has less input lag but looks horrible at first and even after playing with the settings I couldn't make it look anywhere near as good as the normal pictures modes. But the main reason I don't use Game mode it's that after tasting the ultra buttery-smooth motion introduced by fake-interpolated frames I can't for the love of god bear the juderring frame-skipping like effect in Xbox 3D games again (just try to snipe and zoom in GoW3 or Battlefield3 and look at any object in the far distance while slowly panning from side to side... the faster you move the image splits like a fake blur effect) It's like playing in 3D mode but without the glasses eek.gif Just head-ache inducing! I can tolerate the input lag at Clear and/or Custom setting (judder @ 1-5) so I choose the lesser of two evils and play with AMP specially in slow paced games.

So... I understand if you're perfectly comfortable with the Movie mode and I'm happy for you but, please don't dismiss the results that can be obtained in Standard mode after calibration, specially for gaming where the requirements for a natural and/or realistic look are less stringents due to the nature of the medium. I encourage everyone to give it a try and see if it helps with the uniformity issues, if you have them in the first place to begin with.

Enjoy! smile.gif

Holy flying burritos batman! Freakin-tastic! biggrin.gif
GoW3.jpg 504k .jpg file

Edited by darth_cocatiel - 7/23/12 at 7:14pm
post #1875 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by darth_cocatiel View Post

Ok... I hear you and understand you're point of view but I have to disagree on some points my fellow gamer. As I've said before multiple times... I've been using the SAME settings in both Standard and Movie mode and the difference in clouding and uniformity issues, in my set at least, is undeniable as the pics I posted earlier ilustrates. Even if you use the same settings with the same model as mine (UN55ES8000) you know the resuts can be completely different because of innate differences in the manufacturing process of the panel. I've been giving observations based on my specific set and the difference may not be "crazy clouding" for you but... even with the limitations of the LED technology in mind it's kind of "return-it-back-then-buy-a-plasma-and-forget-LED-till-OLED" kind of difference to my eyes!!! eek.gif Take a look again side by side if you will and then tell me, after paying $2500 for this set, that the difference is tolerable wink.gif Mind you, in normally lit viewing conditions the uniformity issues are almost negligible even in Movie mode so I'm not complaining but only trying to explain my point of view smile.gif.
Movie Mode.jpg 140k .jpg file
Standard Mode.jpg 87k .jpg file
Again, the only variable that changed between those pics is the PICTURE MODE only (and everything behind the scenes that comes with it), not the Dynamic Contrast, not the Black tone, not the Black enchancer, not the back light or anything of that sort. Therefore, if everything but the picture mode is affecting all picture modes equally, then scientific observation dictates that the picture mode must be part of the root cause to explain the difference; that's not my opinion but fact and logic deducted from the observations.
Also, if you see the settings that I posted earlier for gaming in 2D you can clearly see that I don't use Black tone or Black enhancer because, as I said in that same post "it crushes black" and I don't like that. I used the AVS disc with these settings and, again as I said before, even with Dynamic Contrast at low I can see EVERY DETAIL in the gray color scale up to the black reference standard (flashing 17 in the test pattern) and every white detail (up to the 234 reference) therefore I know I'm not loosing shadow detail and my blacks aren't being crushed. I love an oversaturated look for gaming but not crushed blacks... I love to see every dark detail in my games especially darker games like the GoW series.
Regarding input lag... yeah game mode has less input lag but looks horrible at first and even after playing with the settings I couldn't make it look anywhere near as good as the normal pictures modes. But the main reason I don't use Game mode it's that after tasting the ultra buttery-smooth motion introduced by fake-interpolated frames I can't for the love of god bear the juderring frame-skipping like effect in Xbox 3D games again (just try to snipe and zoom in GoW3 or Battlefield3 and look at any object in the far distance while slowly panning from side to side... the faster you move the image splits like a fake blur effect) It's like playing in 3D mode but without the glasses eek.gif Just head-ache inducing! I can tolerate the input lag at Clear and/or Custom setting (judder @ 1-5) so I choose the lesser of two evils and play with AMP specially in slow paced games.
So... I understand if you're perfectly comfortable with the Movie mode and I'm happy for you but, please don't dismiss the results that can be obtained in Standard mode after calibration, specially for gaming where the requirements for a natural and/or realistic look are less stringents due to the nature of the medium. I encourage everyone to give it a try and see if it helps with the uniformity issues, if you have them in the first place to begin with.
Enjoy! smile.gif
Holy flying burritos batman! Freakin-tastic! biggrin.gif
GoW3.jpg 504k .jpg file

Well the most important thing is that we are both happy with our resaults. I played with it over the weekend and could not manipulate the better blacks etc. Until i put on the dynamic contrast.
post #1876 of 16125
I've opened a ticket with Samsung engineering after finally managing to get them some details on this issue.

I can confirm at this point, Micro-Dimming is _NOT_ working in Movie Mode, Cal-Day or Cal-Night.

The solution for the moment, use standard, and copy all calibration settings from Movie/Cals to Standard and wait for a fix.

They are not sure the reason, but it may have been an unintended change 3 firmware versions ago.

I'll update this as I have more information.


Note: Copying all the settings from Movie/Cal-day etc will net the same results, the goal is to dial the set into 6500K, providing you use the same color temperature, the end results should be the same.

I'll update my calibration settings until this is fixed.
post #1877 of 16125
Update Calibration settings:

ISF calibrated settings.
Panel ID is TS01, can be found on the serial number sticker on the back of the set, or on the box.
Be aware, the goal of ISF is to dial the TV into 6500K which is industry standard, you may feel your set looks at little washed out, if you're used to other blown out settings, try a bluray or other high def movie.

Picture
Picture Mode Movie Standard <-- Currently 7/23/12 Micro-Dimming is not working in Movie Mode.
Backlight 13*** <--- See notes below
Contrast 80
Brightness 45
Sharpness 16
Color 48
Tint G49/R51
Screen Adjustment Screen Fit

Advanced Settings
Dynamic contrast Off
Black Tone Off
Flesh tone 0
RGB mode off
Color Space Custom
Red: 43,0,0
Green: 0,53,0
Blue: 0,0,59
Yellow: 52,52,0
Cyan: 0,51,51
Magenta: 45,0,50
White Balance: on
R-Offset: 27
G-Offset: 25
B-Offset: 24
R-Gain: 5
G-Gain: 25
B-Gain: 20
10p white balance off
Gamma -1
Expert pattern off
xvYCC off
Motion lighting off
Black enhancer off

Picture Options
Color tone Warm 2
Digital Noise Filter Auto
MPEG Noise Filter Auto
HDMI Black Level Normal*** <--- See notes
Film mode Auto2*** <-- See notes
Auto Motion Plus Standard*** <--- See notes
LED motion plus Off*** <--- See notes

System/ECO Solution
ECO Sensor ON
Minimum backlight level 5

NOTES:

The use of the backlight at setting of 13, relies on the combined use of the ECO sensor, during times when watching in near darkness, it's more likely you'll notice light convergence on the panels with higher backlight settings, but when combined with the ECO sensor, the panel will automatically turn down the backlight level as needed, and raise it back up when you're watching in a bright room.

HDMI Black Level, a common mistake on this setting is that "Low" will give you a full black palette, this is opposite to the truth. Low = 16-255, Normal = 0-255, if you have a STB where you're noticing the blacks are more of a gray, try adjusting this setting, but as a general rule, you want all of your equipment in "Normal" mode and not clipping out any data.

Flim Mode, this option will only become accessible when you're watching interlaced content, 1080i, 480i etc, so, if you're cable box is set to output at 1080, it's likely outputting in 1080i, if you see quite a bit of stuttering in the scene, try and make an adjustment here first.
Auto Motion Plus, Standard is a good rule of thumb, for some people and some sports, you may want to set this to "Clear", it should only be noticeable during panning scenes or fast motion.

LED Motion Plus, Classic CRT TV's had a strobe effect to them, it was generally not noticeable, but would help trick the eye into not seeing flaws in the picture, enabling this setting, will simulate the same effect, it strobes the backlights to attempt to provide the same effect. If you are new to an LED/LCD panel and the movement/motion on the screen irks you a little, try turning this on for a few weeks until you get use to the panel.

Break in, all of these sets have a minimum of 3-4 weeks before they can be considered broken in.

These settings are only provided as a reference.

Also, for reference regarding panel uniformity, please read the link below.
http://asia.cnet.com/is-tv-brightness-uniformity-a-problem-62213336.htm
Keep in mind given the above link, with the correct use of the Backlight settings when combined with the ECO sensor, the large majority of uniformity issues will go away.
post #1878 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gas0linE View Post

Well the most important thing is that we are both happy with our resaults. I played with it over the weekend and could not manipulate the better blacks etc. Until i put on the dynamic contrast.

Yeap, I couldn't have said it better myself biggrin.gif

Do you mind posting your settings for Game mode? I would like to give them a try and see how they look in my set...

Some BF3 goodness biggrin.gif
post #1879 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post

I've opened a ticket with Samsung engineering after finally managing to get them some details on this issue.
I can confirm at this point, Micro-Dimming is _NOT_ working in Movie Mode, Cal-Day or Cal-Night.
The solution for the moment, use standard, and copy all calibration settings from Movie/Cals to Standard and wait for a fix.
They are not sure the reason, but it may have been an unintended change 3 firmware versions ago.
I'll update this as I have more information.
Note: Copying all the settings from Movie/Cal-day etc will net the same results, the goal is to dial the set into 6500K, providing you use the same color temperature, the end results should be the same.
I'll update my calibration settings until this is fixed.

Holy crap... I can't believe I was right all along! eek.gif
post #1880 of 16125
That was a very quick "weekend only" $300 price drop. Wonder what that was for? Testing out pricing points on the market?
post #1881 of 16125
Nitra, are you sure about this? How can you tell? It always looked gorgeous on my set. Is it only effecting cal day/cal night for those eho fot their sets professionally calibrated? Also did the engineering team confirm this?
post #1882 of 16125
Somebody should report this to cnet so they can re review it then after its fixed. It may change their perspective with black levels etc.
post #1883 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post

Note: Copying all the settings from Movie/Cal-day etc will net the same results, the goal is to dial the set into 6500K, providing you use the same color temperature, the end results should be the same.
I'll update my calibration settings until this is fixed.

If you were to measure the grayscale and gamma response (and color gamut while you're at it) with a meter, you'd see this isn't actually the case. The biggest difference will likely be in gamma and even if you can dial in grayscale to D65 in Standard mode, you will likely need different white balance settings than in Movie mode just to get the same result. There are just too many hard coded differences between Standard and Movie pic modes to make the settings 100% transferable. However, those without a meter may not realize this. Not to mention things like 10-pt white balance aren't even in Standard pic mode.
post #1884 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

If you were to measure the grayscale and gamma response (and color gamut while you're at it) with a meter, you'd see this isn't actually the case. The biggest difference will likely be in gamma and even if you can dial in grayscale to D65 in Standard mode, you will likely need different white balance settings than in Movie mode just to get the same result. There are just too many hard coded differences between Standard and Movie pic modes to make the settings 100% transferable. However, those without a meter may not realize this. Not to mention things like 10-pt white balance aren't even in Standard


As mentioned, the solution for the moment is to use standard mode, the results are far better moving the settings over then using movie mode at this point.

I still don't have my meter back or I'd post some concrete settings, for now it's safe to move your movie settings directly over.
post #1885 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post

I've opened a ticket with Samsung engineering after finally managing to get them some details on this issue.
I can confirm at this point, Micro-Dimming is _NOT_ working in Movie Mode, Cal-Day or Cal-Night.
The solution for the moment, use standard, and copy all calibration settings from Movie/Cals to Standard and wait for a fix.
They are not sure the reason, but it may have been an unintended change 3 firmware versions ago.
I'll update this as I have more information.
Note: Copying all the settings from Movie/Cal-day etc will net the same results, the goal is to dial the set into 6500K, providing you use the same color temperature, the end results should be the same.
I'll update my calibration settings until this is fixed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post

As mentioned, the solution for the moment is to use standard mode, the results are far better moving the settings over then using movie mode at this point.
I still don't have my meter back or I'd post some concrete settings, for now it's safe to move your movie settings directly over.

If Micro-Dimming is active in Standard mode but not in Movie mode, this will have a profound difference in terms of calibration and the resulting post-cal settings. This may not be an unintended change as features like micro-dimming (aka dynamic picture enhancements) can do more harm than good when the goal is a calibrated display. You wouldn't calibrate a TV with dynamic contrast on, so why would micro-dimming be any different in this matter?
post #1886 of 16125
Hi everyone! I've had a 60ES8000 for about 3 weeks now and it's simply the best looking set I've ever owned! However I've been having problems with certain channels stuttering and breaking up to the point where that channel/station is un-watchable; I wanted to see if anyone else is having this issue. The problem only seems to happen on 2 channels right now. I have FiOS and the channels are ESPN HD (570) and Palladia HD (711). I have the FiOS DVR connected to HDMI port 1 on my Samsung. Anyone else out there that has FiOS and is seeing the same problem?
post #1887 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

If Micro-Dimming is active in Standard mode but not in Movie mode, this will have a profound difference in terms of calibration and the resulting post-cal settings. This may not be an unintended change as features like micro-dimming (aka dynamic picture enhancements) can do more harm than good when the goal is a calibrated display. You wouldn't calibrate a TV with dynamic contrast on, so why would micro-dimming be any different in this matter?


That was my thought as well, I really need to get my hands back on my meter and run some detailed tests.
post #1888 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post

That was my thought as well, I really need to get my hands back on my meter and run some detailed tests.

How can tou confirm micro dimming is not working in movie mode? Did the engineers tell you or did you notice something? Ill wait for a fix because the oicture i am getting now is nothing short of breathtaking in movie mode.
Edited by Gas0linE - 7/23/12 at 8:49pm
post #1889 of 16125
I would really like to know more about how Nitra arrived at this conclusion. If it's true that micro-dimming is not working in movie mode then I'm pretty disappointed considering that I specifically made the jump to the ES7500 instead of the 7100 because of the improved micro-dimming pro on the 7500 vs the 7100.

So Nitra are you saying that micro-dimming used to work in movie mode and doesn't now? How can that be confirmed? Did Samsung verify this? Samsung tends to be pretty uninformed about their own products from my experience talking with them numerous times in the past regarding their plasmas and blu-ray players. It's really hard to believe that Samsung would "break" a key function like micro-dimming after doing so much talking and bragging about how effective it is.

And I have the ES7500 - is this model affected like the ES8000? Or just the 8000 model? I'm wondering if I have ever even seen my set with it active now, or has that function been broken since I got the set. How would I possibly know?
post #1890 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post

That was my thought as well, I really need to get my hands back on my meter and run some detailed tests.

I think that would be very helpful and give us some concrete data. Even if the meter is not 100% accurate (an issue with most colorimeters when used alone), it should show the differences between a fully calibrated Standard mode and a fully calibrated Movie mode.
Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 7/23/12 at 11:21pm
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