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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 114

post #3391 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Hey guys. Sorry for the delay on my impressions for the ES9000. It got delivered alot later than they originally promised, but it made it here in one piece with no damage.
First impression is WOW! This is huge! Lol. Got the tv setup and downloaded the newest firmware. I didn't notice if it was the same as the ES8000. After turning the tv on and viewing some cable, the increased brightness and black levels were definitely noticeable.
As I showed in my previous picture, you can change the Smart Led and turn on or off cinema black. Btw Eagle, the dimming thing that happens on credits............. Still here. Looks like whatever it is can't be controlled on the 9000 either. I have yet to notice any banding, flashlighting or clouding. I haven't been able to fully test yet, but so far so good. The picture on this tv is BEAUTIFUL. But keep in mind, I honestly don't see a huge difference between this and the ES8000. Yes, I see improvements, but nothing that truly justifies the high price tag. I can't tell anyone that it's worth the money and you should run out and buy it. I can say that if you have the money, it's between this and the Sharp Elite.
I haven't tested 3D yet and haven't watched a letterbox movie. I will post more impressions later this evening along with pics. Btw, viewing angles are a little better than the 8000 but no by much. Please ask any questions!

That's huge! I really hope it is everything you were hoping for. Keeps us posted as you tinker with it. Congrats!
post #3392 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by RaylanGivens View Post

The lower the backlight, the more you are going to want to use Dynamic Contrast, Black Enhancer, and also raise your contrast to 100. And I am speaking of Movie Mode only here. Because Dynamic Contrast creates a similar effect as Micro-Dimming, you should see similar contrast in Movie Mode to what you are seeing in Standard with Micro-Dimming, but without the color accuracy issues of Standard Mode. Also, Black Enhancer performs similarly to the kind of active contrast dimming that is going on in Standard mode. Essentially, you want to dim the backlight as low as you can tolerate for your room light. If you can tolerate a lower backlight, you will be rewarded with better black levels. Dynamic Contrast helps to balance the picture by making white less dull because you had to lower the backlight. The higher the backlight, the bigger the effect Dynamic Contrast has, which is why most leave it off. It's more beneficial with the backlight lower.
With values from 0-20 and the ability to toggle everything on/off, you can find your own middle ground. And if you really want to see what effect Micro-Dimming has on your picture, put your tv into store mode and goto tools. There is a demo you can turn on and off that goes over top of your current video. Like I said before, It's a lot like Dynamic Contrast and as such it's not enough for me to switch from Movie Mode with near perfect color to Standard with inaccurate color. For many others, it might be.

I will agree that if you're going to be using movie mode, like I do (I still switch between standard and movie, depending on the type of content), you will be better served having dynamic contrast on at least low. It definitely gets you a bit closer to the look of standard. I don't seem to notice any effect from black enhancer - it seems to not affect my AVS patterns one way or the other, and seems to have no effect at all on regular viewing. One thing I hate about movie is that I have to have the backlight on a lot higher to give the same general brightness with regular viewing. It seems movie mode needs to be like 4 stops higher in backlight brightness over whatever standard mode is set to, which unfortunately makes the clouding all that more apparent, and certainly doesn't help make the blacks any better. But I just can't live with the backlight too low - sure the blacks are deeper but then everything looks like the film lighting crew took the day off. If I wanted a dim-looking image I would have kept plasma. That's why I hate auto-dimming - I want a nice bright image. Not over-bright and blown-out, just bright when it should be. If everything looks like everyone always has the lights turned down in the room on the tv show you're watching, then it's too dim. Actually I tried using black tone and it definitely makes a noticeable difference in how deep the blacks look, but there's no question that it crushes blacks.

What do people here use for a gamma setting? Are people using 0 or -1?
post #3393 of 16125
I was watching some tv over the weekend and played a bit with the motion smoothing. Clear really seems to be the only option that works for me without stuttering. I read elsewhere that some like to use "smooth" instead of "clear", so I figured I'd try it out - lots of channels stutter on smooth - like frame dropping. Switching back to clear totally eliminated this. No other setting is usable but clear and I really don't know why - I hear lots of blaming the cable signals but Samsung knew when they built this tv that it's likely to be displaying tv content from cable/satellite/fiber sources, so didn't they actually test their motion smoothing on actual cable feeds to see how the sets handled motion with motion smoothing enabled? With all the variety of motion smoothing and even the custom mode, it sucks to not be able to use anything but clear. It's nice clear works but why do no other modes work? Like I said, didn't Samsung actually test these sets with real everyday signals like people use, every day. Not everybody watches just blu-ray 24/ 7 - tons of people watch cable, and they should have tweaked the motion smoothing to handle the imperfections of cable signals. It's kind of a cop-out to just blame the cable company for a less-than-perfect signal, when the tv is designed for receiving cable/satellite signals.
post #3394 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I was watching some tv over the weekend and played a bit with the motion smoothing. Clear really seems to be the only option that works for me without stuttering. I read elsewhere that some like to use "smooth" instead of "clear", so I figured I'd try it out - lots of channels stutter on smooth - like frame dropping. Switching back to clear totally eliminated this. No other setting is usable but clear and I really don't know why - I hear lots of blaming the cable signals but Samsung knew when they built this tv that it's likely to be displaying tv content from cable/satellite/fiber sources, so didn't they actually test their motion smoothing on actual cable feeds to see how the sets handled motion with motion smoothing enabled? With all the variety of motion smoothing and even the custom mode, it sucks to not be able to use anything but clear. It's nice clear works but why do no other modes work? Like I said, didn't Samsung actually test these sets with real everyday signals like people use, every day. Not everybody watches just blu-ray 24/ 7 - tons of people watch cable, and they should have tweaked the motion smoothing to handle the imperfections of cable signals. It's kind of a cop-out to just blame the cable company for a less-than-perfect signal, when the tv is designed for receiving cable/satellite signals.

They do, however, there's many different feeds that the sets are given.
That's why there's so many different settings given to us, so you can adjust it. Some cables providers barely touch the feeds, others mangle the heck out of them with various compression and interlaced to de-interlaced.
I for example, can't run my box on clear, it works great with standard, but not clear. You should also try and not use the interlaced modes, most people think 1080i is superior to 720p, but that's not correct.
In Montreal, the main cable provider Videotron, for example, provides most feeds in 1080i MPEG2, the MPEG2 is highly compressed, the sources are 18megabits, Videotron mangles most of the feeds down to 12 megabits, and to further save space, they interlace the feeds.
My provider FibeTV, provides signals via MPEG4, 7 megabits, @ 720p, while the compression is much higher mpeg2 to mpeg4, the MPEG4 is a much superior format.
So yes, the onus goes back to the cable providers, Samsung can't possibly guess the combination of every form of interlacing and compression that's used along the way, they can only provide us the tools to adjust it.
It's more then just adjusting AMP, you need to look at the flim modes as well.
Edited by nitra - 9/4/12 at 8:30pm
post #3395 of 16125
I see. So then it's not correct to assume then that all AMP modes will work with all cable signals? If I try various AMP settings with blu-ray would the results be better since I'm dealing with a better signal?
post #3396 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I see. So then it's not correct to assume then that all AMP modes will work with all cable signals? If I try various AMP settings with blu-ray would the results be better since I'm dealing with a better signal?

Heh, even channel to channel, you might see issues, depending on the feeds, that's why the odd person points out the notice is during tennis on channel XXXX, but they've never seen it before.
Or say, an old copy of Law and Order on Showcase, the DAT's they're playing it from were coded interlaced, but the broadcaster retransmits it in 720p, the cable provider then upconverts it to 1080i, you may never get a stable signal on it, again, it's not a flaw of the TV, it was the original DAT that should have been broadcasted in 1080i.
You may find a setting that smoothes that feed, then when you flip the channel it's all messed up again.
That's why I say, you need to find out what the majority of the feeds that your cable provider is sending, and match all of your hardware to that.
Mine is 720p, I don't put my cable boxes on 1080i, so there's one less conversion in the chain.

And don't get me started if there's a clock timer that's off somewhere in your equipment, you'd go nuts trying to find it.
IE, Nvidia 24p....
post #3397 of 16125
Does anyone here own a Logitech Revue (google TV) that's hooked up to this TV? I ask because since I bought one and connected my comcast cable though it and out to the TV, everything comes in 1080p. When I hit the info on the TV remote, it says 1080P/ 60p not 60i

I seems that ever since I hooked this up, I don't get the jutter and am able to put it in Standard and smooth with no jutter. I even tried putting it in custom with both options maxed out to 10 and he picture looks great. Yea, I get the Soap opera effect but I like it like that. I wouldn't keep it like this watching a Blu Ray movie though.

When I checked the description for the Revue, it says nothing about up scaling your cable to 1080P. It does a fantastic job at this too. Does anyone know anything about this?
post #3398 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Hey guys. Sorry for the delay on my impressions for the ES9000. It got delivered alot later than they originally promised, but it made it here in one piece with no damage.
First impression is WOW! This is huge! Lol. Got the tv setup and downloaded the newest firmware. I didn't notice if it was the same as the ES8000. After turning the tv on and viewing some cable, the increased brightness and black levels were definitely noticeable.
As I showed in my previous picture, you can change the Smart Led and turn on or off cinema black. Btw Eagle, the dimming thing that happens on credits............. Still here. Looks like whatever it is can't be controlled on the 9000 either. I have yet to notice any banding, flashlighting or clouding. I haven't been able to fully test yet, but so far so good. The picture on this tv is BEAUTIFUL. But keep in mind, I honestly don't see a huge difference between this and the ES8000. Yes, I see improvements, but nothing that truly justifies the high price tag. I can't tell anyone that it's worth the money and you should run out and buy it. I can say that if you have the money, it's between this and the Sharp Elite.
I haven't tested 3D yet and haven't watched a letterbox movie. I will post more impressions later this evening along with pics. Btw, viewing angles are a little better than the 8000 but no by much. Please ask any questions!

Very nice Jdaddy! Is that window treatment actualy a center channel speaker??? LOL Anyway, looks good, best of luck and keep the reports flowing.
post #3399 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by garyxrreedy View Post

Has anyone who ordered the 65 incher received their TV yet? If so, could ya post how the uniformity and flash lighting are on the larger model. I'll be getting my 65 on Friday. I'm excited, but I'd just like to hear what I'll be getting into with the larger panel.link
did you order it from Amazon? I ask cause Im waiting for one also from them. They lowered the wait to 2-4 weeks now

Edit** Now it's 2-3 MONTHS! What's up with that?
Edited by Anthony5362 - 9/5/12 at 8:42am
post #3400 of 16125
Nitra, you had said, "HDMI Black Level, a common mistake on this setting is that "Low" will give you a full black palette, this is opposite to the truth. Low = 16-255, Normal = 0-255, if you have a STB where you're noticing the blacks are more of a gray, try adjusting this setting, but as a general rule, you want all of your equipment in "Normal" mode and not clipping out any data."
Why can this happen with a STB? I noticed this with my DirecTV box.
post #3401 of 16125
Oh, forgot about this one... Yesterday I tried to buy something on the Samsung appstore through the TV. It told me I didn't have a credit card on file but I knew I set that up the previous day. I went online and put it in again, even though it was there. I went back to the TV and tried again with no luck. Has anyone had that issue? Thanks.
post #3402 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Nitra, you had said, "HDMI Black Level, a common mistake on this setting is that "Low" will give you a full black palette, this is opposite to the truth. Low = 16-255, Normal = 0-255, if you have a STB where you're noticing the blacks are more of a gray, try adjusting this setting, but as a general rule, you want all of your equipment in "Normal" mode and not clipping out any data."
Why can this happen with a STB? I noticed this with my DirecTV box.

It happens, no idea why, it happens to my IPTV cable provider, which uses the same boxes as U-Verse.
post #3403 of 16125
Weird. Thanks, Nitra.

Does anyone know if you can reorder/delete "apps" in the Smart Hub other than in the bottom section?
Examples: I'd like to move the downloaded Vudu to be up top near Netflix. I also have no need for Family Story in the middle.
post #3404 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Regarding the judder with auto motion plus, if I set it to clear then it is nice and smooth, no frame drops - none that I can see. Any other setting, or using custom with blur reduction at anything other than 0, causes stutter and frame drops. I don't know what it is about clear mode but it's the only AMP setting that works for me without dropping frames.

Agreed.
Sorry, I know this post is over a month old, but I'm moving through the thread. smile.gif
post #3405 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Weird. Thanks, Nitra.
Does anyone know if you can reorder/delete "apps" in the Smart Hub other than in the bottom section?
Examples: I'd like to move the downloaded Vudu to be up top near Netflix. I also have no need for Family Story in the middle.

You cannot move the apps that are in the top portion, only the bottom.
post #3406 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by ELMO45 View Post

You cannot move the apps that are in the top portion, only the bottom.

That's what I thought. Hmmmm. Oh well. Thanks for the reply!
post #3407 of 16125
Curious what people's thoughts are on the Smart Touch Remote. Does it work well? Having to navigate a remote menu on screen vs being able to simply press a button on my remote seems somewhat annoying and simply adds an extra layer of interaction.

I'm moving up from the ES7100, which had the universal remote and seemed to work well, but still waiting on the ES8000 to arrive.
post #3408 of 16125
This sucks guys. I just got my TV last night and I had to leave early this morning for a two day business trip. It was hard to leave my wife this morning but I almost shed a tear when I had to say goodbye to my new TV smile.gif

I'll upload more pics and give updates on my findings and impressions once I have more time with it. I got about two hours last night to really mess with it while my wife was in the other room. To anyone who currently owns the ES8000 series, I wouldn't be too jealous of this model other than the fact it's available in 75" Essentially, it's the ES8000 but bigger. In saying that, it's still one sexy b*tch!
post #3409 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

did you order it from Amazon? I ask cause Im waiting for one also from them. They lowered the wait to 2-4 weeks now
Edit** Now it's 2-3 MONTHS! What's up with that?

Something is definitely up with the 65". Not only does Amazon say 2 to 3 months, but Cructchfield has it on pre-order for months with no ETA given! So either they stopped production completely, or halted it to fix all the problems people have been complaining about??? In either case, it is BAD news for me as this TV was the only contender for me after my 65" plasma experiment was a disaster, and I had ruled out all the Sharp models (quality) and Sony backlit model (price). So I guess I am stuck with my 52" non-3D CCFL for months more to come. mad.gif
post #3410 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavius View Post

Something is definitely up with the 65". Not only does Amazon say 2 to 3 months, but Cructchfield has it on pre-order for months with no ETA given! So either they stopped production completely, or halted it to fix all the problems people have been complaining about??? In either case, it is BAD news for me as this TV was the only contender for me after my 65" plasma experiment was a disaster, and I had ruled out all the Sharp models (quality) and Sony backlit model (price). So I guess I am stuck with my 52" non-3D CCFL for months more to come. mad.gif

Yea, I noticed that also on Crutchfield.com. I did look for it on BestBuy and they seem to have them in stock. I think Sears has them also. The thing is, I already placed my order on Amazon and already received the free 32". I read somewhere that after Sept 8 that bundle is no longer going to be available so that's why I rushed to buy it.

I hope that the reason for the back order is because their fixing whatever issue there was with most of them having the banding issue. Then I don't mind too much waiting
post #3411 of 16125
avuqubup.jpg

Not sure if I uploaded this one from last night.
post #3412 of 16125
I called BestBuy around 1 pm today and they said that they did not have any in stock or in their distribution center. They also did not know when they would be getting any stock.
post #3413 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavius View Post

Something is definitely up with the 65". Not only does Amazon say 2 to 3 months, but Cructchfield has it on pre-order for months with no ETA given! So either they stopped production completely, or halted it to fix all the problems people have been complaining about??? In either case, it is BAD news for me as this TV was the only contender for me after my 65" plasma experiment was a disaster, and I had ruled out all the Sharp models (quality) and Sony backlit model (price). So I guess I am stuck with my 52" non-3D CCFL for months more to come. mad.gif


I just received an Email from Amazon this morning saying my 65" is ready to ship and should receive it next week. Maybe they just added a 2-3 month delay just to be on the safe side. They must be selling these like crazy with the promotion they have running. I just placed the order last week, so it's really only taking 2 weeks. The original delay was 3-4 weeks and im getting it even sooner now.

If your looking to buy it, you should take advantage of the free 32". I received it next day after placing my order and besides being on the small side, the picture is really good. No backlight issues or anything, and Great back levels
post #3414 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdustinb View Post

Curious what people's thoughts are on the Smart Touch Remote. Does it work well? Having to navigate a remote menu on screen vs being able to simply press a button on my remote seems somewhat annoying and simply adds an extra layer of interaction.
I'm moving up from the ES7100, which had the universal remote and seemed to work well, but still waiting on the ES8000 to arrive.

I grabbed a HarmonyOne and it has been the perfect mate for my system flawlessly controlling all levels of features so far. Three HDMI's and one composite input is fed directly to the 8000 and all audio is output to my soundbar.

Soundbar, Smart hub is navigatable in my Sammy blu e6500, Tosh HD-A30 fully functional, Sony VHS (yes!!!) obviuosly working well and the FIOS dvr is fully functional as well.


My Harmomy is nicknamed " Hal-9000 "...hopefully Hal keeps his positive attitude.
post #3415 of 16125
Nitra, thanks for the tip on setting the cable box to 720p for the juddering tennis issue, it cleared things up. Much appreciated.
post #3416 of 16125
Need some help:

Just set up UN65ES8000 with the following: Medicom HD set top box, Samsung BD-E6500 3D WiFi Blu-ray Disc Player and Apple TV.
After numerous testing equipment to HDMI ports I have concluded the following:

1. The Samsung Blu ray player will only play thru HDMI port #1 ( #2 hdmi it says resolution unsupported #3 black screen)
2. HD cable box (Pace brand) will work on port #1 and port #2 ( #3 black screen)
3 Apple TV work with #1 and #2 , #3 port starts out with x-ray looking picture then comes in with static / sparkle.

Am I missing something? I would think if the HDMI cables were bad you would get the same result on each HDMI port for each piece of equipment.
I was online with Samsung support and tried various tests/ resets to no avail. Tech person stated I should be able to run the Bu-ray, cable box or Apple TV on any one of the 3HDMI ports of my choosing with no problems.
Tech wanted to start a service ticket and send repair guy out, but with the TV being brand new my inclination is to return it to Amazon as I think the HDMI ports are bad or going bad.

As a side note the box was pretty beat up when I received the TV (one corner of the box was smashed in and the packing straps were pretty dug into the box) but the panel appeared unharmed.

Thanks for any thoughts or help.
post #3417 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

ydepe7yj.jpg

Cinema Black was a nice feature, glad to see that back on the new ES9000. Now as I understand it this set is not full array. That to me, makes it more of a cross between the ES8000 & the D8000
post #3418 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmclaughlin View Post

Need some help:
Just set up UN65ES8000 with the following: Medicom HD set top box, Samsung BD-E6500 3D WiFi Blu-ray Disc Player and Apple TV.
After numerous testing equipment to HDMI ports I have concluded the following:
1. The Samsung Blu ray player will only play thru HDMI port #1 ( #2 hdmi it says resolution unsupported #3 black screen)
2. HD cable box (Pace brand) will work on port #1 and port #2 ( #3 black screen)
3 Apple TV work with #1 and #2 , #3 port starts out with x-ray looking picture then comes in with static / sparkle.
Am I missing something? I would think if the HDMI cables were bad you would get the same result on each HDMI port for each piece of equipment.
I was online with Samsung support and tried various tests/ resets to no avail. Tech person stated I should be able to run the Bu-ray, cable box or Apple TV on any one of the 3HDMI ports of my choosing with no problems.
Tech wanted to start a service ticket and send repair guy out, but with the TV being brand new my inclination is to return it to Amazon as I think the HDMI ports are bad or going bad.
As a side note the box was pretty beat up when I received the TV (one corner of the box was smashed in and the packing straps were pretty dug into the box) but the panel appeared unharmed.
Thanks for any thoughts or help.

All three ports worked for me. I have my DirecTV in 1, Apple TV in 2 and my Blu-ray in 3. Sounds like a bad port to me too, but maybe someone else will know something I don't.
post #3419 of 16125
Day 3 and after playing around several times, I changed all my settings. I really liked Nitra's in Standard and kept an almost exact copy of it if I want to switch back, but I couldn't take the CE Dimming any more. It's not only terrible with space movies/show and credits, but it plays havoc with my Apple TV menus and last night when I saw it kick in during the scene in UP where you see Charles Muntz for the first time standing in the shadows of the cave, I figured I had to be done with it. I sent Samsung a nice but direct email and today switched to Movie mode. Although I feel CNET's Standard settings are total crap, I like their Movie settings a lot, and although I'd prefer to have Micro Dimming, I don't feel losing it make a big enough difference for me to stick with Standard. I love the way this set looks, although I did change a few of CNET's settings. I'm much happier today than I even was two days ago. Keep in mind I have a 7500 like Eagle, so I have a feeling CE Dimming is more apparent on the 7500, based on other people's opinions.
post #3420 of 16125
Oh also, here are a couple things I noticed specifically with my STB. I have DirecTV and noticed that 720p channels looks better with it's outputting 720p but 1080i channels look better when it outputs 1080i, so I made some changes to my DVR. First, I set it to spit out the native format instead of outputting one or the other. The initial downside to this is that when it sees a 480i/p picture, it changes all the menus temporality to SD when it switches to that mode. So I then set the DVR so that it thinks my TV will only accept 720p, 1080i or 1080p signals. Regular TV now looks much better to me.

The other thing was that on 4 x 3 SD pictures from the DVR, I see the data at the top of the screen, so for only this input, I set the picture size to 16 x 9 instead of Screen Fit.
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