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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 124

post #3691 of 16128
20120916_202202.jpg 1802k .jpg file

Dead pixel.on my set!! Absolutely this set will go back to BB.
post #3692 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Standard mode has other features that Movie mode doesn't that help black levels, minimizing flashlighting, like Micro Dimming and CE Dimming. I see minimal flashlighting in the corners in Movie mode, but basically none in Standard. Maybe post some pics of that one corner.

I tried taking a photo with my iphone but it doesn't pick it up, it just takes a picture of a black screen without the flashlight in the corner which is clearly visible with my eyes, im using the apple tv menu (complete black screen) to make the flashlights stand out.

Does Dynamic mode have these benefits you mentioned in regards to black levels or not? how about natural mode?
post #3693 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefanhvt View Post

I'm actually quite surprised how much this is bothering you eagle. Personally I do see it rarely, and when I do see it, It think it does a very great job. I have never before seen a system that has so smooth and quick dimming at the same time. For me it's very hard to even notice it, and when I do notice it, i experience it as a good adjustment. So as some one mentioned earlier, you should maybe consider that your tv has an defect, or at least the dimming future is acting differently on your tv than on other sets.
I highly recommend you to first compare your set to other sets, and then go further on this issue. I have an issue of my own, namely the audio out of sync issue. I see it everywhere, and I am hyper sensitive to it. But this sensitivity seems to be something that's is very personal, and is increasing more and more the more attention you give it. Research lately has proven that people can shift from sensitivity of audio delay at 200 ms, to 20, 10, 1, and even 1/3 of a ms. The out of sync issue which was not noticeable in the past on larges amount of ms delay, now becomes visible at even 1 / 3000 of a second. This is astonishing to me. But now at least I convinced myself I'm not crazy. Lol.
So I would recommend you to consider these two options:
1. You have a sensitivity that others have not.
2. Your set has an defect, or the dimming future is acting differently.

I wish you the best in this because I can understand how frustrating such an issue is.

Thank you for the advice. I'm leaning strongly towards "1". I know many don't seem to mind it but for me it's very distracting. Otherwise I love this set overall. But the dimming is a tough one for me to accept, and we really shouldn't have to. I'd still like to know what the point of it is anyways. If micro-dimming is supposed to do such a great job, then why does the set also need to have auto-dimming as well? Makes me doubt just how effective micro-dimming is. If it produced such a great image then it shouldn't need to auto-dim also, that's just a cheap trick to make the blacks appear darker than they are.

I watched the first half of Titanic in 3D tonight with my girlfriend - it was getting late so we're gonna finish the other half tomorrow hopefully. All I can say is about the 3D in this set is - WOW! I saw the 3D release of Titanic in the theatre several months ago, and without question, the 3D on this set was every bit as spectacular. Of course the 3D conversion was stunning thanks to Cameron, but this set is really breathtaking with 3D material. Neither me nor my girlfriend saw even a hint of crosstalk - not even once during the first half of the film. Razor sharp throughout. This puts the Panasonic plasmas to shame in terms of it's 3D capability. I also managed to get the color, brightness and contrast to a place that I'm really pretty happy with in 3D, and that was no easy task. The tinting of the glasses throws all the color off, so you have to compensate for that when you adjust the color. It was very tricky but I think the colors tonight looked incredibly close in 3D with glasses on compared to my 2D settings. Whites were snow white, faces looked very natural, and blacks looked black, not tinted. I thoroughly enjoyed every minute while watching it tonight. Of course no auto-dimming because I was in movie mode.

I found gamma was helpful for getting the brightness just right, without clipping. I found that bumping up the gamma a bit helped to brighten the image in 3D mode without need to crank up the backlight quite so high, which helps keep flashlighting under control better.
post #3694 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Thank you for the advice. I'm leaning strongly towards "1". I know many don't seem to mind it but for me it's very distracting. Otherwise I love this set overall. But the dimming is a tough one for me to accept, and we really shouldn't have to. I'd still like to know what the point of it is anyways. If micro-dimming is supposed to do such a great job, then why does the set also need to have auto-dimming as well? Makes me doubt just how effective micro-dimming is. If it produced such a great image then it shouldn't need to auto-dim also, that's just a cheap trick to make the blacks appear darker than they are.
I watched the first half of Titanic in 3D tonight with my girlfriend - it was getting late so we're gonna finish the other half tomorrow hopefully. All I can say is about the 3D in this set is - WOW! I saw the 3D release of Titanic in the theatre several months ago, and without question, the 3D on this set was every bit as spectacular. Of course the 3D conversion was stunning thanks to Cameron, but this set is really breathtaking with 3D material. Neither me nor my girlfriend saw even a hint of crosstalk - not even once during the first half of the film. Razor sharp throughout. This puts the Panasonic plasmas to shame in terms of it's 3D capability. I also managed to get the color, brightness and contrast to a place that I'm really pretty happy with in 3D, and that was no easy task. The tinting of the glasses throws all the color off, so you have to compensate for that when you adjust the color. It was very tricky but I think the colors tonight looked incredibly close in 3D with glasses on compared to my 2D settings. Whites were snow white, faces looked very natural, and blacks looked black, not tinted. I thoroughly enjoyed every minute while watching it tonight. Of course no auto-dimming because I was in movie mode.
I found gamma was helpful for getting the brightness just right, without clipping. I found that bumping up the gamma a bit helped to brighten the image in 3D mode without need to crank up the backlight quite so high, which helps keep flashlighting under control better.

Did u watch in a dark room or with some ambient light? does your set have any flashlight/bright corners in dark scenes?
post #3695 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

Eagle,
Do you have another TV in your home that you can compare the dimming too? If so, maybe you can set up a service call and show the tech the issue. He can see how your other TV doesn't do this and this one does. Maybe if it's that noticeable on your 7500, you can get him to see this and then take it up with Samsung to see if they can either refund you, or swap you out for another one, or different model. You can tell Samsung and the tech that your eyes are very sensitive to this and therefor you cannot watch this TV. You can also say its even causing you to have headaches every time you use it and how unhappy you are
Don't let them know how you can't return it because of all your returns from Best Buy otherwise they probably won't do it, but maybe they will let you upgrade to the 8000 and let you just pay the difference which shouldn't be much more. Just a sugestion.. Your obviously really sensitive to this and I think you might have a chance getting it resolved if you can show the tech how bad it is. Obviously the rest of us aren't in your shoes with this, so it really may be either a defect or just how the 7500 is.

Not a bad idea but unfortunately this is my only set in the apartment. Otherwise if I had another set for comparison that really isn't a bad idea.

Of course the thing is other than the dimming I love this set. See my comment above about the 3D tonight - I don't think there is another tv (or series of tvs) on the market that offers such an incredible 3D experience. Being a big 3D fan I would really miss how good it looks on this set. So I would much rather just see Samsung step up and give us a firmware update to give us the option to disable dimming, instead of trying to get rid of the set.
post #3696 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by lamonsasa View Post

Did u watch in a dark room or with some ambient light? does your set have any flashlight/bright corners in dark scenes?

Dark room, with just a small bit of ambient light coming from the other room. I'd eventually like to get some backlighting for this set but for now a bit of ambient light from the other room works well. Flashlighting on my set isn't really an issue thankfully. If I crank my backlighting all the way up I can certainly see it but otherwise it's almost non-existent. The clouding is more noticeable sadly. I wish it wasn't quite as noticeable as it is. In standard mode it's much harder to notice but since I use movie mode it is certainly more noticeable. In 3D mode because the screen is set up brighter to compensate for the glasses, the flashlighting becomes noticeable a bit, but still it's really not an issue - even on the night shots during Titanic, the flashlighting never became a distraction.
post #3697 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post

If it's noticeable in normal viewing, they'll service it, nearly every single LED/LCD will show some banding when you're cycling through different IRE.
If it's very distracting during normal operation, this isn't normal, you shouldn't really see it.

Hi Nitra,
I am using your settings on my recently received 60es8000. There is hardly any flashlight or bleeding. The picture is unbelievable! I still have two more weeks to go for a free calibration from bestbuy. How do they calibrate? Do they touch the panel for any reason during calibration because I am being so cautious about this new panel I don't want them to leave any smudge.

Thank you very much for all help on this forum.
post #3698 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Dark room, with just a small bit of ambient light coming from the other room. I'd eventually like to get some backlighting for this set but for now a bit of ambient light from the other room works well. Flashlighting on my set isn't really an issue thankfully. If I crank my backlighting all the way up I can certainly see it but otherwise it's almost non-existent. The clouding is more noticeable sadly. I wish it wasn't quite as noticeable as it is. In standard mode it's much harder to notice but since I use movie mode it is certainly more noticeable. In 3D mode because the screen is set up brighter to compensate for the glasses, the flashlighting becomes noticeable a bit, but still it's really not an issue - even on the night shots during Titanic, the flashlighting never became a distraction.

What do you have your backlight set to in 2D Mode? and what do you have the backlight set to for 3D mode? also do you have Eco Sensor ON?

i dont know man but for me on my set, i can see the flashlight in the lower left corner only when the room is dark without any ambient lights, if its daylight outside or if i have a lamp on at night i cant see the flashlight but if i turn the light off at night and watch the tv in the dark i can clearly see the flashlight in the lower left corner and i have my backlight set to 7 so i dont know how lower than that i can set it..

so basically this means that i have to have some kind of light on at evening/night to not notice the flashlight in the corner.. what do u guys think?
post #3699 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by lamonsasa View Post

What do you have your backlight set to in 2D Mode? and what do you have the backlight set to for 3D mode? also do you have Eco Sensor ON?
i dont know man but for me on my set, i can see the flashlight in the lower left corner only when the room is dark without any ambient lights, if its daylight outside or if i have a lamp on at night i cant see the flashlight but if i turn the light off at night and watch the tv in the dark i can clearly see the flashlight in the lower left corner and i have my backlight set to 7 so i dont know how lower than that i can set it..
so basically this means that i have to have some kind of light on at evening/night to not notice the flashlight in the corner.. what do u guys think?

It sounds to me like your set has more visible flashlighting than others. I have none, and haven't heard many here complain much about it. You can always set up a service request with Samsung.
post #3700 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by lamonsasa View Post

What do you have your backlight set to in 2D Mode? and what do you have the backlight set to for 3D mode? also do you have Eco Sensor ON?
i dont know man but for me on my set, i can see the flashlight in the lower left corner only when the room is dark without any ambient lights, if its daylight outside or if i have a lamp on at night i cant see the flashlight but if i turn the light off at night and watch the tv in the dark i can clearly see the flashlight in the lower left corner and i have my backlight set to 7 so i dont know how lower than that i can set it..
so basically this means that i have to have some kind of light on at evening/night to not notice the flashlight in the corner.. what do u guys think?

I have intermittent, tolerable and faint flashlight effect MOSTLY int he lower left corner as well. That said, it seems to be very source material oriented at times. It does not always manifest on dark scenes or if room lighting is low. If anything i notice it mor on 3d 2:35 material but I have not played 3d just to test this. Flashlight is minimal enouigh that I have no issue with it. If we find a fix that cool. If not, love this set and dont care too much.

My backlight setting is 9 for all sources with ECO off period.

I've heard people talk about loosening screws to eas pressure and reduce this. Ar they talking about external screws in the back on the glossy rear plastic panels or are we talking about screws only accessable from removing that panel?
post #3701 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Thank you for the advice. I'm leaning strongly towards "1". I know many don't seem to mind it but for me it's very distracting. Otherwise I love this set overall. But the dimming is a tough one for me to accept, and we really shouldn't have to. I'd still like to know what the point of it is anyways. If micro-dimming is supposed to do such a great job, then why does the set also need to have auto-dimming as well? Makes me doubt just how effective micro-dimming is. If it produced such a great image then it shouldn't need to auto-dim also, that's just a cheap trick to make the blacks appear darker than they are.
I watched the first half of Titanic in 3D tonight with my girlfriend - it was getting late so we're gonna finish the other half tomorrow hopefully. All I can say is about the 3D in this set is - WOW! I saw the 3D release of Titanic in the theatre several months ago, and without question, the 3D on this set was every bit as spectacular. Of course the 3D conversion was stunning thanks to Cameron, but this set is really breathtaking with 3D material. Neither me nor my girlfriend saw even a hint of crosstalk - not even once during the first half of the film. Razor sharp throughout. This puts the Panasonic plasmas to shame in terms of it's 3D capability. I also managed to get the color, brightness and contrast to a place that I'm really pretty happy with in 3D, and that was no easy task. The tinting of the glasses throws all the color off, so you have to compensate for that when you adjust the color. It was very tricky but I think the colors tonight looked incredibly close in 3D with glasses on compared to my 2D settings. Whites were snow white, faces looked very natural, and blacks looked black, not tinted. I thoroughly enjoyed every minute while watching it tonight. Of course no auto-dimming because I was in movie mode.
I found gamma was helpful for getting the brightness just right, without clipping. I found that bumping up the gamma a bit helped to brighten the image in 3D mode without need to crank up the backlight quite so high, which helps keep flashlighting under control better.

Yes Titanic in 2d and 3d was off the chart amazing. 3d on this set BLOWS AWAY plasma from any make so I do hope that argument is minimal going forward. Only cave dweller need to give input on plasma, 3d and it's ability versus a great LCD like the 8000. LOL Enought already.

By the way, not everything black is supposed to be inky-solid-liquidy-hell-frozen -over-pitch black so the whole black level argument is so overblown...just like "reference level" and what "director intended" or ISF standard.

Yes, i keep saying it...cuz it's still true...unless you spring for 6k plus cash, the tv rules the roost.
post #3702 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Thank you for the advice. I'm leaning strongly towards "1". I know many don't seem to mind it but for me it's very distracting. Otherwise I love this set overall. But the dimming is a tough one for me to accept, and we really shouldn't have to. I'd still like to know what the point of it is anyways. If micro-dimming is supposed to do such a great job, then why does the set also need to have auto-dimming as well? Makes me doubt just how effective micro-dimming is. If it produced such a great image then it shouldn't need to auto-dim also, that's just a cheap trick to make the blacks appear darker than they are.
I watched the first half of Titanic in 3D tonight with my girlfriend - it was getting late so we're gonna finish the other half tomorrow hopefully. All I can say is about the 3D in this set is - WOW! I saw the 3D release of Titanic in the theatre several months ago, and without question, the 3D on this set was every bit as spectacular. Of course the 3D conversion was stunning thanks to Cameron, but this set is really breathtaking with 3D material. Neither me nor my girlfriend saw even a hint of crosstalk - not even once during the first half of the film. Razor sharp throughout. This puts the Panasonic plasmas to shame in terms of it's 3D capability. I also managed to get the color, brightness and contrast to a place that I'm really pretty happy with in 3D, and that was no easy task. The tinting of the glasses throws all the color off, so you have to compensate for that when you adjust the color. It was very tricky but I think the colors tonight looked incredibly close in 3D with glasses on compared to my 2D settings. Whites were snow white, faces looked very natural, and blacks looked black, not tinted. I thoroughly enjoyed every minute while watching it tonight. Of course no auto-dimming because I was in movie mode.
I found gamma was helpful for getting the brightness just right, without clipping. I found that bumping up the gamma a bit helped to brighten the image in 3D mode without need to crank up the backlight quite so high, which helps keep flashlighting under control better.

At the moment I'm quite surprised. You know why? After the moment I typed you the message, I watched a movie of my own, and was experiencing that the proper backlight settings where just unreachable. Whatever I tried in standard mode, I just couldn't find a setting that I was comfortable with. So I switched to movie mode for a while, and then back, and then I saw it: The horrible way ce dimming is ruining the image. From that moment I understood you eagle. It depends very much on which kind of content your watching. Movies as avatar, transformers, and name them, make your tv looks awesome in standard mode. But when you watch normal scene movies, like American Pie, the standard mode shows a horrible image compared to movie mode. The blacks are all blurred out, and the surroundings show a very unrealistic lightning. The cause may be ce dimming or micro dimming, or a combination of both. Who knows. Whatever it is, I followed you now eagle. I've been using Nitra's settings up till now, and was quite enthusiastic about them, but I now switched permanently to cnet's movie mode settings. What ce dimming is doing to standard mode is just unacceptable.
Edited by Stefanhvt - 9/17/12 at 5:47am
post #3703 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by lamonsasa View Post

How is standard different than the other modes that i shouldn't be seeing any flashlights?
i mean basically there is one flashlight in the lower left corner, and a tiny one in the upper left corner.
if you turn all lights in the room off in complete darkness and put a black screen on your set ,do you see the flashlights in the corners? in how many corners?
thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by lamonsasa View Post

Did u watch in a dark room or with some ambient light? does your set have any flashlight/bright corners in dark scenes?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lamonsasa View Post

What do you have your backlight set to in 2D Mode? and what do you have the backlight set to for 3D mode? also do you have Eco Sensor ON?
i dont know man but for me on my set, i can see the flashlight in the lower left corner only when the room is dark without any ambient lights, if its daylight outside or if i have a lamp on at night i cant see the flashlight but if i turn the light off at night and watch the tv in the dark i can clearly see the flashlight in the lower left corner and i have my backlight set to 7 so i dont know how lower than that i can set it..
so basically this means that i have to have some kind of light on at evening/night to not notice the flashlight in the corner.. what do u guys think?

I've replied to you on this before.
Please read the CNET post. http://asia.cnet.com/is-tv-brightness-uniformity-a-problem-62213336.htm
Some of this issue is to be expected, correct use of the backlight when combined with the ECO sensor get rid of most of the issue.
The sets have a break-in period of 3-4 weeks somewhere in there the flashlight does go down a bit, but it is expected to have some of the uniformity as mentioned in the CNET post.
After owning several sets over the years, it really does come down to the "panel lottery", I have a D7000 in my bedroom, if I look at the set from off-angle on the right side, it's obvious where the edge lighting is.
My ES8000, if I sit on the left side of the room, there's an ever so slight flashlight from the top right, if I sit on the right side of the room, there's a slight light from the bottom left hand corner.
In my experience, a lot of these sets have the light on the bottom left side, I've seen many sets with it, it leads me to believe that it might be an over tightened screw, the next time I need to move my TV or have to take it off the wall, I'll take the back off and loosen it, however, this might not happen until 2015.

As mentioned in the CNet post, edge lit sets show lighting around the edges a lot more, it's a general problem with all of the sets, it's not a Samsung issue alone, a check with Google will show that every other edge lit set has this issue.
There are some cases where the flashlighting is quite severe, Samsung will service the set, but keep in mind, some of it is considered normal.
If you can't live with the uniformity of LED/LCD's, you can get a plasma, but beware, some of their issues can be a lot more serious than a small amount of edge light bleed.
post #3704 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefanhvt View Post

At the moment I'm quite surprised. You know why? After the moment I typed you the message, I watched a movie of my own, and was experiencing that the proper backlight settings where just unreachable. Whatever I tried in standard mode, I just couldn't find a setting that I was comfortable with. So I switched to movie mode for a while, and then back, and then I saw it. The horrible way ce dimming is ruining the image. From that moment I understood you eagle. It depends very much on which kind of content your watching. Movies as avatar, transformers, and name them, make your tv looks awesome in standard mode. But when you watch normal scene movies, like American Pie, the standard mode shows a horrible image compared to movie mode. The blacks are all blurred out, and the surroundings show a very unrealistic lightning. The cause may be ce dimming or micro dimming, or a combination of both. Who knows. Whatever it is, I followed you now eagle. I've been using Nitra's settings up till now, and was quite enthusiastic about them, but I now switched impermanently to cnet's movie mode settings. What ce dimming is doing to standard mode is just unacceptable.

Me 3.. Just rented Arbitrage last night through my Apple TV(1080p) model and the whole movie showed that unrealistic lighting. It looked horrible.. So switched to movie mode and it looked a little better but still not that great. Just like the movie Collateral and the Walking Dead. But then when you watch Titanic, Avata etc.. They look amazing. This must have to do with the Ce Dimming, and M.D, cause these movies looked great on my UND8000. Very frustrating..

I will point out though that my D8000 didn't always look this good. It wasn't until Samsung released the Firmware version 1026 where they really looked the best. After that update, the blacks became inky black. They didn't release it till around April if I'm not mistaken. Which means the same thing can happen with this series whenever Samsung decides to release that one Firmware that will really make this TV look perfect. I also that since that time, the thread to the D8000 really slowed down. I think most people became happy after that firmware.
post #3705 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

I have intermittent, tolerable and faint flashlight effect MOSTLY int he lower left corner as well. That said, it seems to be very source material oriented at times. It does not always manifest on dark scenes or if room lighting is low. If anything i notice it mor on 3d 2:35 material but I have not played 3d just to test this. Flashlight is minimal enouigh that I have no issue with it. If we find a fix that cool. If not, love this set and dont care too much.
My backlight setting is 9 for all sources with ECO off period.
I've heard people talk about loosening screws to eas pressure and reduce this. Ar they talking about external screws in the back on the glossy rear plastic panels or are we talking about screws only accessable from removing that panel?

I can tell you by seeing a panel replaced that there are no screws on the set that I would say could be loosened. The panel is the chassis. The only screws on the back of the panel are the ones that hold the computer boards and speakers on. There are a ton of little screws that hold the bezel on around the perimeter.
post #3706 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefanhvt View Post

At the moment I'm quite surprised. You know why? After the moment I typed you the message, I watched a movie of my own, and was experiencing that the proper backlight settings where just unreachable. Whatever I tried in standard mode, I just couldn't find a setting that I was comfortable with. So I switched to movie mode for a while, and then back, and then I saw it. The horrible way ce dimming is ruining the image. From that moment I understood you eagle. It depends very much on which kind of content your watching. Movies as avatar, transformers, and name them, make your tv looks awesome in standard mode. But when you watch normal scene movies, like American Pie, the standard mode shows a horrible image compared to movie mode. The blacks are all blurred out, and the surroundings show a very unrealistic lightning. The cause may be ce dimming or micro dimming, or a combination of both. Who knows. Whatever it is, I followed you now eagle. I've been using Nitra's settings up till now, and was quite enthusiastic about them, but I now switched impermanently to cnet's movie mode settings. What ce dimming is doing to standard mode is just unacceptable.

CE Dimming is a function that all manufactures have, it's not unique to Samsung, if you think it's bad on the Sammy, try a Toshiba, it will make a grown man cry.
That said, it doesn't crush blacks, it adjusts the backlight level relative to the overall luminescence on the screen.
Some people cannot live with it, for you, the option is Movie mode.

My personal thoughts;
I can understand why it bothers some people, and I can see how it would exacerbate levels based on content played, if I play a dark 700 meg xvid file, it seems the adjustments are a bit more drastic, if I play a 5gb MKV, it flows better, over the last few weeks I've watched all of the Star Wars/Star Trek Blu-Ray movies, and I could see periods where it was active when playing them back on my PlayStation, however, I feel the net gain is worth it.
I say again, every manufacturer has this function, Samsung has it very well implemented, the issue at hand is, there is no way to turn it off, or adjust the level of CE Dimming.
post #3707 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Op's Guy View Post

I can tell you by seeing a panel replaced that there are no screws on the set that I would say could be loosened. The panel is the chassis. The only screws on the back of the panel are the ones that hold the computer boards and speakers on. There are a ton of little screws that hold the bezel on around the perimeter.

http://www.forodvd.com/tema/108005-tutorial-eliminar-clouding-la-serie-es8000-de-samsung/
http://translate.google.it/translate?hl=it&sl=es&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forodvd.com%2Ftema%2F108005-tutorial-eliminar-clouding-la-serie-es8000-de-samsung%2F

There are a few screws that can cause that in that area.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

Me 3.. Just rented Arbitrage last night through my Apple TV(1080p) model and the whole movie showed that unrealistic lighting. It looked horrible.. So switched to movie mode and it looked a little better but still not that great. Just like the movie Collateral and the Walking Dead. But then when you watch Titanic, Avata etc.. They look amazing. This must have to do with the Ce Dimming, and M.D, cause these movies looked great on my UND8000. Very frustrating..
I will point out though that my D8000 didn't always look this good. It wasn't until Samsung released the Firmware version 1026 where they really looked the best. After that update, the blacks became inky black. They didn't release it till around April if I'm not mistaken. Which means the same thing can happen with this series whenever Samsung decides to release that one Firmware that will really make this TV look perfect. I also that since that time, the thread to the D8000 really slowed down. I think most people became happy after that firmware.

It also has to do with the source and type of movie, streaming is bad at the best of times.
post #3708 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post

http://www.forodvd.com/tema/108005-tutorial-eliminar-clouding-la-serie-es8000-de-samsung/
http://translate.google.it/translate?hl=it&sl=es&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forodvd.com%2Ftema%2F108005-tutorial-eliminar-clouding-la-serie-es8000-de-samsung%2F
There are a few screws that can cause that in that area.
It also has to do with the source and type of movie, streaming is bad at the best of times.

True, but I was comparing the same source on my D8000. You own the D7000, do you notice a big difference from this model? I'm not familiar with the D7000 at all but when I first got the D8000, it had in all corners the flashlight but the picture was so amazing that's I didn't even care, but as time whent on, either my eye got uses to it, or it went away because I don't really notice it anymore.

I'm still debating wether I should keep this, or return it, and if I should put it on the wall or wait for the kit and then put it on the wall, or just return it and get the new 65" Sony. I do want to add though that for $3,500, this TVs pretty good. You get what you pay for...
Edited by Anthony5362 - 9/17/12 at 6:22am
post #3709 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

Yes Titanic in 2d and 3d was off the chart amazing. 3d on this set BLOWS AWAY plasma from any make so I do hope that argument is minimal going forward. Only cave dweller need to give input on plasma, 3d and it's ability versus a great LCD like the 8000. LOL Enought already.
By the way, not everything black is supposed to be inky-solid-liquidy-hell-frozen -over-pitch black so the whole black level argument is so overblown...just like "reference level" and what "director intended" or ISF standard.
Yes, i keep saying it...cuz it's still true...unless you spring for 6k plus cash, the tv rules the roost.

I believe that's very true. There's are lots of shades of black, and not every instance of black in a film is intended to be pure, inky, deep, pitch black. I think that is often overlooked when discussing black.
post #3710 of 16128
Has anyone watched any Porn in 3D on this set yet? WOW! ......tongue.gif:p
post #3711 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefanhvt View Post

At the moment I'm quite surprised. You know why? After the moment I typed you the message, I watched a movie of my own, and was experiencing that the proper backlight settings where just unreachable. Whatever I tried in standard mode, I just couldn't find a setting that I was comfortable with. So I switched to movie mode for a while, and then back, and then I saw it: The horrible way ce dimming is ruining the image. From that moment I understood you eagle. It depends very much on which kind of content your watching. Movies as avatar, transformers, and name them, make your tv looks awesome in standard mode. But when you watch normal scene movies, like American Pie, the standard mode shows a horrible image compared to movie mode. The blacks are all blurred out, and the surroundings show a very unrealistic lightning. The cause may be ce dimming or micro dimming, or a combination of both. Who knows. Whatever it is, I followed you now eagle. I've been using Nitra's settings up till now, and was quite enthusiastic about them, but I now switched permanently to cnet's movie mode settings. What ce dimming is doing to standard mode is just unacceptable.

I'm glad some people are realizing that standard isn't the holy grail setting of these sets. In some instances, like everyday tv channels playing junk, standard can give the appearance of extra "pop", but I find the color not as accurate as movie, and of course the auto-dimming/CE-Dimming/shadow-detail? whatever they call it makes things much worse. That's why I'm only using movie mode now. It provides the most stable image, and the most accurate color.
post #3712 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post

CE Dimming is a function that all manufactures have, it's not unique to Samsung, if you think it's bad on the Sammy, try a Toshiba, it will make a grown man cry.
That said, it doesn't crush blacks, it adjusts the backlight level relative to the overall luminescence on the screen.
Some people cannot live with it, for you, the option is Movie mode.
My personal thoughts;
I can understand why it bothers some people, and I can see how it would exacerbate levels based on content played, if I play a dark 700 meg xvid file, it seems the adjustments are a bit more drastic, if I play a 5gb MKV, it flows better, over the last few weeks I've watched all of the Star Wars/Star Trek Blu-Ray movies, and I could see periods where it was active when playing them back on my PlayStation, however, I feel the net gain is worth it.
I say again, every manufacturer has this function, Samsung has it very well implemented, the issue at hand is, there is no way to turn it off, or adjust the level of CE Dimming.

I thought Samsung was supposedly listening to our complaints and working on a solution?
post #3713 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by lamonsasa View Post

I tried taking a photo with my iphone but it doesn't pick it up, it just takes a picture of a black screen without the flashlight in the corner which is clearly visible with my eyes, im using the apple tv menu (complete black screen) to make the flashlights stand out.
Does Dynamic mode have these benefits you mentioned in regards to black levels or not? how about natural mode?

I agree with what was said about maybe you should contact Samsung support if you're not happy, but you may be getting confusing info by asking questions here because you have the ES6580, which I believe does not even have micro dimming - in any mode.
post #3714 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Thank you for the advice. I'm leaning strongly towards "1". I know many don't seem to mind it but for me it's very distracting. Otherwise I love this set overall. But the dimming is a tough one for me to accept, and we really shouldn't have to. I'd still like to know what the point of it is anyways. If micro-dimming is supposed to do such a great job, then why does the set also need to have auto-dimming as well? Makes me doubt just how effective micro-dimming is. If it produced such a great image then it shouldn't need to auto-dim also, that's just a cheap trick to make the blacks appear darker than they are.
I watched the first half of Titanic in 3D tonight with my girlfriend - it was getting late so we're gonna finish the other half tomorrow hopefully. All I can say is about the 3D in this set is - WOW! I saw the 3D release of Titanic in the theatre several months ago, and without question, the 3D on this set was every bit as spectacular. Of course the 3D conversion was stunning thanks to Cameron, but this set is really breathtaking with 3D material. Neither me nor my girlfriend saw even a hint of crosstalk - not even once during the first half of the film. Razor sharp throughout. This puts the Panasonic plasmas to shame in terms of it's 3D capability. I also managed to get the color, brightness and contrast to a place that I'm really pretty happy with in 3D, and that was no easy task. The tinting of the glasses throws all the color off, so you have to compensate for that when you adjust the color. It was very tricky but I think the colors tonight looked incredibly close in 3D with glasses on compared to my 2D settings. Whites were snow white, faces looked very natural, and blacks looked black, not tinted. I thoroughly enjoyed every minute while watching it tonight. Of course no auto-dimming because I was in movie mode.
I found gamma was helpful for getting the brightness just right, without clipping. I found that bumping up the gamma a bit helped to brighten the image in 3D mode without need to crank up the backlight quite so high, which helps keep flashlighting under control better.

Very true about micro dimming, I keep wondering the same thing. I just hope it and CE aren't hardwired to each other and that we get some control.

Great advice on the 3D, man, thanks. I agree Cameron did an amazing conversion. I don't care for conversions, but that was top notch.
post #3715 of 16128
I didn't realize you were considering returning the Samsung, Anthony.
post #3716 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I'm glad some people are realizing that standard isn't the holy grail setting of these sets. In some instances, like everyday tv channels playing junk, standard can give the appearance of extra "pop", but I find the color not as accurate as movie, and of course the auto-dimming/CE-Dimming/shadow-detail? whatever they call it makes things much worse. That's why I'm only using movie mode now. It provides the most stable image, and the most accurate color.

I had moved over to Movie for the same reason - I agree Movie once tweaked is the best looking. But I got Standard looking almost exactly like Movie, which was key for me, so dealing with some CE Dimming (minor for me) won in order to get rid of the slight clouding and flashlighting in Movie. If I were to gain micro dimming in Movie though, I'd be there again in a heartbeat. I will say though, that if I never get an update like that, I'm now very content.
post #3717 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

I didn't realize you were considering returning the Samsung, Anthony.

I was until I just watched some Porn on this beast..

After I ordered this TV from Amazon, I heard the new Sony was being released and read things like its going to be the closest thing to OLED, and it's the "best" TV for 2012, even better than the Elite.. Also reading Sonys statement that it's their best LED ever made, and the fact that it's a Full-Array with local Dimming... All those statements and the fact that i have slight banding I notice once in a while, and the fact that my D8000 looks a lot better, make me want to return it for the Sony.

But, I really don't feel like dealing with a return. It's not like it's a 46" where I can pack it up and have UPS pick it up.
Edited by Anthony5362 - 9/17/12 at 7:44am
post #3718 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post

CE Dimming is a function that all manufactures have, it's not unique to Samsung, if you think it's bad on the Sammy, try a Toshiba, it will make a grown man cry.
That said, it doesn't crush blacks, it adjusts the backlight level relative to the overall luminescence on the screen.
Some people cannot live with it, for you, the option is Movie mode.
My personal thoughts;
I can understand why it bothers some people, and I can see how it would exacerbate levels based on content played, if I play a dark 700 meg xvid file, it seems the adjustments are a bit more drastic, if I play a 5gb MKV, it flows better, over the last few weeks I've watched all of the Star Wars/Star Trek Blu-Ray movies, and I could see periods where it was active when playing them back on my PlayStation, however, I feel the net gain is worth it.
I say again, every manufacturer has this function, Samsung has it very well implemented, the issue at hand is, there is no way to turn it off, or adjust the level of CE Dimming.

Well I think my complaint goes out to the combination of both. If I only see the backlight dimming I can live with that. But the combination with Micro Dimming makes it a blurred unrealistic image.
post #3719 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

Me 3.. Just rented Arbitrage last night through my Apple TV(1080p) model and the whole movie showed that unrealistic lighting. It looked horrible.. So switched to movie mode and it looked a little better but still not that great. Just like the movie Collateral and the Walking Dead. But then when you watch Titanic, Avata etc.. They look amazing. This must have to do with the Ce Dimming, and M.D, cause these movies looked great on my UND8000. Very frustrating..
I will point out though that my D8000 didn't always look this good. It wasn't until Samsung released the Firmware version 1026 where they really looked the best. After that update, the blacks became inky black. They didn't release it till around April if I'm not mistaken. Which means the same thing can happen with this series whenever Samsung decides to release that one Firmware that will really make this TV look perfect. I also that since that time, the thread to the D8000 really slowed down. I think most people became happy after that firmware.

For me movie mode looks relatively good. I have no D8000 to compare it to however.
post #3720 of 16128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

I had moved over to Movie for the same reason - I agree Movie once tweaked is the best looking. But I got Standard looking almost exactly like Movie, which was key for me, so dealing with some CE Dimming (minor for me) won in order to get rid of the slight clouding and flashlighting in Movie. If I were to gain micro dimming in Movie though, I'd be there again in a heartbeat. I will say though, that if I never get an update like that, I'm now very content.

Can you tell me which settings you applied to make standard mode almost the same as movie mode ?
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