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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 138

post #4111 of 16125
Now I think it's time to set up my game input in game mode for the best latency I can get. Before I do it though, can someone confirm that I can turn that on and leave it on one specific input without effecting my other inputs? I don't need to turn it on and off right? Thanks.
post #4112 of 16125
THAT is interesting. See Nitra - MS messes everything up - my Apple TV is great. smile.gif Just messing with you. Thanks.
post #4113 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

My HDMI needs to be set to low also or else I get a really washed out picture. It's funny though earlier on.. Way earlier on before I joined, when someone posted to never put it on low. That everything should be on normal. Not low.. Then they saw that everyone was using low and retracted that.

Agree. The low setting really produces a good result. Like Garnoch has stated experimenting with different settings is a preference of visual taste. Every set may be just a little different. Mine seems to really look good with dynamic contrast set at medium as well.
post #4114 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

THAT is interesting. See Nitra - MS messes everything up - my Apple TV is great. smile.gif Just messing with you. Thanks.

It's not really Microsoft messing up, but the cable providers not setting the correct flags when they build the firmware. It's incorrectly assigning the colorspace to 0-255 when it should be 16-235.
The boxes are pushing the full palate of 0-255, makes the image look like complete garbage.
post #4115 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Op's Guy View Post

Agree. The low setting really produces a good result. Like Garnoch has stated experimenting with different settings is a preference of visual taste. Every set may be just a little different. Mine seems to really look good with dynamic contrast set at medium as well.

I have mine set to medium also and completely agree..
post #4116 of 16125
HDMI Black Low actually cuts detail level, unless there's a reason to back yourself into 16-235, you should use normal.
If you notice the image on a particular source is washed out, and blacks don't look black, set the HDMI black level to low and check it again, you can also use a component cable and get the same results. Component is limited in colorspace the same way as setting HDMI black to low.

On the same issue, there's also a number of AVR's that won't pass 0-255 properly either, even some high end gear that doesn't, and others have settings that you need to enable to get it working, ie. RGB Enhanced or Deep Color or Brighter Whites etc etc.
post #4117 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post

It's not really Microsoft messing up, but the cable providers not setting the correct flags when they build the firmware. It's incorrectly assigning the colorspace to 0-255 when it should be 16-235.
The boxes are pushing the full palate of 0-255, makes the image look like complete garbage.

One thing I noticed after replacing the bad Uverse DVR I had was some settings were off a bit. I lowered the backlight a notch or two, and was able to run the contrast lower as well. Maybe the new box had better or the most current software compared to the old. All I know is something was definitely different. Looks good though...
post #4118 of 16125
I'm also using picture setting "natural" with some content. Of course I dial it down a little but with some content, I get that pop and a more vivid picture.
post #4119 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post

HDMI Black Low actually cuts detail level, unless there's a reason to back yourself into 16-235, you should use normal.
If you notice the image on a particular source is washed out, and blacks don't look black, set the HDMI black level to low and check it again, you can also use a component cable and get the same results. Component is limited in colorspace the same way as setting HDMI black to low.
On the same issue, there's also a number of AVR's that won't pass 0-255 properly either, even some high end gear that doesn't, and others have settings that you need to enable to get it working, ie. RGB Enhanced or Deep Color or Brighter Whites etc etc.

I run pure. Uverse DVR to set.
post #4120 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

I'm also using picture setting "natural" with some content. Of course I dial it down a little but with some content, I get that pop and a more vivid picture.

I have on very few occasions tried natural. Just not enough adjustments available to get it where it looks good to me.
post #4121 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Op's Guy View Post

I have on very few occasions tried natural. Just not enough adjustments available to get it where it looks good to me.

Yea, same here but after the update, I tried it last night and I got it to look really good. Only on certain stuff though. Natural seems to bring out the red more so that definitely needs to be dialed down.
post #4122 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

This is hard to answer because we all see - and hear, smell and think, differently. If it works for you, I say keep doing what you're doing - or find and try different settings, playing around to see what others might be seeing. The fact that you are running everything through a receiver though, changes things. You seem to be using processing in the receiver so it doesn't surprised me too much that you're not seeing what other's are seeing. Are you connecting all your gear to the receiver then one HDMI to the TV? This can also create an issue with different inputs benefitting from different settings, but perhaps you were able to do that in the receiver. For instance, I have DirecTV and DirecTV really needs the HDMI Black Level to be on Low, where all others of mine need to be on Normal. When I don't do this, DirecTV is very washed out.
With the same setting in Standard and Movie modes, they should look almost identical, but with blacks being better, with less clouding and flashlighting, in Standard because of Standard using Micro and CE Dimming. This is the reason I've added Black Tone to the mix in Movie mode. Being you're seeing such a difference from Standard to Movie mode, I assume their settings are the defaults that came with the TV and not self-calibrated to be almost identical. If you were to calibrate with a pro or even just by getting someone else's settings, Standard and Movie would look even better, and be very similar to each other. Remember though, you would have to change settings for each in every input, including 3D and when using something like Netflix in the SmartHub. Also remember that if your receiver is already processing the picture, everything I wrote may not matter.

Thanks, Garnoch. Much appreciated.

I have everything going through the Yamaha receiver (RX-A2000) and one HDMI to the Samsung UN65ES8000. Everything is being upscaled to 1080P. I originally had a separate HDMI cable for video and audio for my Sony BDP-S790 bluray player but have since changed that configuration and it works much better with one HDMI from the receiver to the Sammy for all my input resources:

1. Directv HR 22-100 with external hard drive
2. Sony BDP-S790 Bluray Player
3. Micca EP350 Media Player

All plugged into a Belkin PF30 Power Console. The only addition I might make is to have a Region Free DVD Player (not bluray) as another DVD player for foreign DVD's.

I found out when I run everything through my Yamaha receiver, everything works much better including Anynet and even using the Sony Bluray option to convert 2D to 3D - through the receiver. (Another option to the Samsung conversion)

So I am getting uniformity on all video sources - - including streaming from Amazon Instant Video (an incredible deal as far as I'm concerned).

I just haven't seen the "pop" factor with the "Movie" mode in my dark man cave in the basement. My backlight is set at "10" and I've even started experimenting with some of the other features, like AMP, that have been totally turned off by most users. I find that the "Smooth" setting helps with streaming video from Amazon - especially the Mission Impossible movie I watched yesterday.

I think my receiver is altering (for the good) my picture compared to other posts, here, and it's probably not "apples to apples." That being said - - I read every single thread on this forum and will continue to do so because it helps me get the most out of my TV and I learn a lot.

Best - Rick
post #4123 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

Thanks, Garnoch. Much appreciated.
I have everything going through the Yamaha receiver (RX-A2000) and one HDMI to the Samsung UN65ES8000. Everything is being upscaled to 1080P. I originally had a separate HDMI cable for video and audio for my Sony BDP-S790 bluray player but have since changed that configuration and it works much better with one HDMI from the receiver to the Sammy for all my input resources:
1. Directv HR 22-100 with external hard drive
2. Sony BDP-S790 Bluray Player
3. Micca EP350 Media Player
All plugged into a Belkin PF30 Power Console. The only addition I might make is to have a Region Free DVD Player (not bluray) as another DVD player for foreign DVD's.
I found out when I run everything through my Yamaha receiver, everything works much better including Anynet and even using the Sony Bluray option to convert 2D to 3D - through the receiver. (Another option to the Samsung conversion)
So I am getting uniformity on all video sources - - including streaming from Amazon Instant Video (an incredible deal as far as I'm concerned).
I just haven't seen the "pop" factor with the "Movie" mode in my dark man cave in the basement. My backlight is set at "10" and I've even started experimenting with some of the other features, like AMP, that have been totally turned off by most users. I find that the "Smooth" setting helps with streaming video from Amazon - especially the Mission Impossible movie I watched yesterday.
I think my receiver is altering (for the good) my picture compared to other posts, here, and it's probably not "apples to apples." That being said - - I read every single thread on this forum and will continue to do so because it helps me get the most out of my TV and I learn a lot.
Best - Rick

Yamaha's generally have very good video processing, yours is near the top.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't that model have Stream-Clean as well?
post #4124 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Now I think it's time to set up my game input in game mode for the best latency I can get. Before I do it though, can someone confirm that I can turn that on and leave it on one specific input without effecting my other inputs? I don't need to turn it on and off right? Thanks.

That is correct. It is tied to the specific input. You will not need to turn it on / off if you want to switch inputs.

Also do you have the 7500 or 8000. Thinking of trying your movie settings but i have the 7500.
post #4125 of 16125
I just received my 65" 8000 on Friday, and based on suggestions in this thread set the backlight lower and sharpness lower that stock. I have hidef cable box connected to HDMI1, Samsung Blueray player to HDMI2, and AppleTV2 to HDMI3. The TV audio optical out and the BlueRay optical out go to an older Yamaha surround sound amp (only 2 inputs so I'll have to switch for Apple TV no biggie). Speakers are Paradigm fronts and rears, and a Yamaha sub and a decent center. The set looks excellent to me in the Standard mode, I haven't tried the Movie mode. Bluray movies look/sound fantastic, as does NFL football. A couple of questions: The Automatic Motion (AMP) feature that everyone hates to use, where is that in the menus? Does anyone use the Voice feature for anything except turning the set on/off? It's kind of cute, but is it useful? I have the remote set to control the STB and Blueray player, that's OK. What's this "upconverting" the cable signal all about, I've never heard of that, and what's the best way to do it? This is a great thread. I'm pretty tech-saavy but some of the video terminology I'm not familiar with. What's this HDMI low/black setting all about? Thanks.
post #4126 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post

Yamaha's generally have very good video processing, yours is near the top.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't that model have Stream-Clean as well?

Nitra - I do not think this receiver has it - - possibly the new RX-A2020

I do know that there is a considerable difference in the picture from my Yamaha RX-A2000 with processing on as opposed to direct pass thru when it is off with Directv - 1080i to 1080P. (HQV Vida Processor)

It's probably the best investment I've made in my Home Theater setup outside of the UN65ES8000 purchase. Even standard DVD's (and they all can have varying "video" quality depending on how they are filmed & processed) look fantastic. I'm sure other folks have receivers that upgrade the signal as well. I'm a fan of Yamaha but I know there are many good receivers out there that help with video processing and improving the picture quality of your source material.

********************************************************************

HQV Vida Processor for High Resolution HD and SD Images

This AV receiver optimizes the video signals sent to the TV by using the most advanced HQV (Hollywood Quality Video) Vida processor. Supporting both SD and HD sources, this processor employs powerful noise reduction functions that even improve low-quality sources. Additional resolution enhancement functions make SD content look like HD.

High Picture Quality

Analog and HDMI video upscaling to full HD 1080p
1080p-compatible HDMI: 8 inputs (1 on front) and 2 outputs (simultaneous)
Supports Deep Color (30/36 bit), x.v.Color, 24Hz Refresh Rate and Auto Lip-Sync compensation
HQV high-class chipset “VHD1900” for HD/SD Video
Video adjustment functionality
- New auto noise reduction (mosquito noise, block noise, temporal noise)
- New auto resolution enhancement (detail/edge enhancement)
- Contrast, Brightness, Saturation
- 6 preset memories
post #4127 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

Nitra - I do not think this receiver has it - - possibly the new RX-A2020
I do know that there is a considerable difference in the picture from my Yamaha RX-A2000 with processing on as opposed to direct pass thru when it is off with Directv - 1080i to 1080P. (HQV Vida Processor)
It's probably the best investment I've made in my Home Theater setup outside of the UN65ES8000 purchase. Even standard DVD's (and they all can have varying "video" quality depending on how they are filmed & processed) look fantastic. I'm sure other folks have receivers that upgrade the signal as well. I'm a fan of Yamaha but I know there are many good receivers out there that help with video processing and improving the picture quality of your source material.
********************************************************************
HQV Vida Processor for High Resolution HD and SD Images
This AV receiver optimizes the video signals sent to the TV by using the most advanced HQV (Hollywood Quality Video) Vida processor. Supporting both SD and HD sources, this processor employs powerful noise reduction functions that even improve low-quality sources. Additional resolution enhancement functions make SD content look like HD.
High Picture Quality
Analog and HDMI video upscaling to full HD 1080p
1080p-compatible HDMI: 8 inputs (1 on front) and 2 outputs (simultaneous)
Supports Deep Color (30/36 bit), x.v.Color, 24Hz Refresh Rate and Auto Lip-Sync compensation
HQV high-class chipset “VHD1900” for HD/SD Video
Video adjustment functionality
- New auto noise reduction (mosquito noise, block noise, temporal noise)
- New auto resolution enhancement (detail/edge enhancement)
- Contrast, Brightness, Saturation
- 6 preset memories


Can you run a simple 5.1 setup with this receiver? I love Yamaha I own an RXV 870. Back in the day was top line. Now it's just in the closet. My HK AVR-247 just isn't any good for anything other that sound in my setup. The wife would kill me right now if I even brought it up!
post #4128 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Op's Guy View Post

Can you run a simple 5.1 setup with this receiver? I love Yamaha I own an RXV 870. Back in the day was top line. Now it's just in the closet. My HK AVR-247 just isn't any good for anything other that sound in my setup. The wife would kill me right now if I even brought it up!

Op's Guy - absolutely. In fact, I virtually use 5.1 for everything these days - - "Straight"

When I first setup the speakers - - I went overboard - - two front "presence" speakers (Yamaha sound processing), two front, side and rear speakers with a mid and sub. My initial thinking was that wow, look at all the speakers and now I can take advantage of 7.1 sound.

Guess what - - there isn't much in 7.1 sound, at least from my video rental source and Directv doesn't provide a 7.1 signal for anything.

And...I found out that after all the experimenting with the sound fields and even listening to 7.1 (on the rare occasion that I can find a Bluray with a 7.1 sound field) I listen exclusively to 5.1 - Straight - no processing from the Yamaha receiver.

So, to make a long story short, 5.1 works great and is the best way to listen using the "Straight" - unmodified soundtrack (no Yamaha sound processing).
post #4129 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

I can only speak to the UN65ES8000 -
4 feet (48") from end to end
27" - Touching, in that the base curves up and approximately 27" of the stand is on the surface
11 1/2 " in Depth - front to back
2" High - elevating the screen
Hope this helps
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

I needed the same info and it took me forever to find - finally found it at crutchfield.com, and it's one of the reasons I went with the 7500. It was great info. I'll copy and paste.
UN60ES8000
detachable stand (stand "footprint" is 41-1/2"W x 8-3/8"D)
54"W x 31-7/8"H x 1-1/4"D (33"H x 8-3/8"D on stand)
UN60ES7500
detachable swivel stand (stand "footprint" is 28"W x 12-1/4")
54-1/4"W x 32"H x 1-1/2"D (35"H x 12-1/4"D on stand)

Thank-you Rico and Garnoch
MY BAD. I should have specified the TV size. It will be a 46" set. Anyone with a 46" who can measure for me?
post #4130 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronwalker1974 View Post

That is correct. It is tied to the specific input. You will not need to turn it on / off if you want to switch inputs.
Also do you have the 7500 or 8000. Thinking of trying your movie settings but i have the 7500.
Great, thanks. I have the 7500. To my knowledge, there is little difference between the two though, although even within the 8000 family (or 7500) you can always get different panels. They're not all exactly the same, but close enough without getting a pro if you don't want to.
post #4131 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

Thanks, Garnoch. Much appreciated.
I have everything going through the Yamaha receiver (RX-A2000) and one HDMI to the Samsung UN65ES8000. Everything is being upscaled to 1080P. I originally had a separate HDMI cable for video and audio for my Sony BDP-S790 bluray player but have since changed that configuration and it works much better with one HDMI from the receiver to the Sammy for all my input resources:
1. Directv HR 22-100 with external hard drive
2. Sony BDP-S790 Bluray Player
3. Micca EP350 Media Player
All plugged into a Belkin PF30 Power Console. The only addition I might make is to have a Region Free DVD Player (not bluray) as another DVD player for foreign DVD's.
I found out when I run everything through my Yamaha receiver, everything works much better including Anynet and even using the Sony Bluray option to convert 2D to 3D - through the receiver. (Another option to the Samsung conversion)
So I am getting uniformity on all video sources - - including streaming from Amazon Instant Video (an incredible deal as far as I'm concerned).
I just haven't seen the "pop" factor with the "Movie" mode in my dark man cave in the basement. My backlight is set at "10" and I've even started experimenting with some of the other features, like AMP, that have been totally turned off by most users. I find that the "Smooth" setting helps with streaming video from Amazon - especially the Mission Impossible movie I watched yesterday.
I think my receiver is altering (for the good) my picture compared to other posts, here, and it's probably not "apples to apples." That being said - - I read every single thread on this forum and will continue to do so because it helps me get the most out of my TV and I learn a lot.
Best - Rick

That's all great to hear then. I wouldn't concern yourself with wondering if you're missing something with Movie mode. I like Standard too. Chalk it up to everyone seeing differently and having different preferences.
post #4132 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by cglenn View Post

Thank-you Rico and Garnoch
MY BAD. I should have specified the TV size. It will be a 46" set. Anyone with a 46" who can measure for me?

You're welcome. That's on crutchfield.com too though...

UN46ES8000
detachable stand (stand "footprint" is 36-1/4"W x 8-1/4"D)
41"W x 24-1/4"H x 1-1/2"D (25-7/8"H x 8-1/4"D on stand)

UN46ES7500
detachable swivel stand (stand "footprint" is 24-7/8"W x 11"D)
41-1/4"W x 24-3/8"H x 1-1/2"D (27-1/4"H x 11"D on stand)
post #4133 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

That's all great to hear then. I wouldn't concern yourself with wondering if you're missing something with Movie mode. I like Standard too. Chalk it up to everyone seeing differently and having different preferences.

Oh one more thing about why some people may prefer Movie though - it has more control over fine tuning settings - and no CE Dimming which darkens the screen during dark scenes, which can be jarring depending on the content.
post #4134 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Op's Guy View Post

Agree. The low setting really produces a good result. Like Garnoch has stated experimenting with different settings is a preference of visual taste. Every set may be just a little different. Mine seems to really look good with dynamic contrast set at medium as well.

Yeah there are certain times I like Dynamic Contrast at medium and even Black Tone on Darker. There are many times though when medium does something to faces and skin tone that I don't like, and in the case of Medium and Darker, there are times I loose some detail. I just decided I didn't want to jump back and forth depending on content, so left am leaving them on Low and Dark for now. It doesn't surprise me at all that people can like those settings.
Natural though... I'm just shaking my head haha
post #4135 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

Nitra - I do not think this receiver has it - - possibly the new RX-A2020
I do know that there is a considerable difference in the picture from my Yamaha RX-A2000 with processing on as opposed to direct pass thru when it is off with Directv - 1080i to 1080P. (HQV Vida Processor)
It's probably the best investment I've made in my Home Theater setup outside of the UN65ES8000 purchase. Even standard DVD's (and they all can have varying "video" quality depending on how they are filmed & processed) look fantastic. I'm sure other folks have receivers that upgrade the signal as well. I'm a fan of Yamaha but I know there are many good receivers out there that help with video processing and improving the picture quality of your source material.
********************************************************************
So you plug your Blueray player and your Direct TV output into this receiver, and then one HDMI out to the TV. You select the source from the Yamaha and it upgrades the signal to the Samsung TV and it looks better. You hook up your surround speakers to the amp and the HDMI input makes an optical input unneccessary. Couple of questions. I've got cable TV, does the Yamaha have a coaxial input for that? And as for selecting the source that the Yamaha sends to the TV, I assume you use the remote that comes with it.
post #4136 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebignewt View Post

I just received my 65" 8000 on Friday, and based on suggestions in this thread set the backlight lower and sharpness lower that stock. I have hidef cable box connected to HDMI1, Samsung Blueray player to HDMI2, and AppleTV2 to HDMI3. The TV audio optical out and the BlueRay optical out go to an older Yamaha surround sound amp (only 2 inputs so I'll have to switch for Apple TV no biggie). Speakers are Paradigm fronts and rears, and a Yamaha sub and a decent center. The set looks excellent to me in the Standard mode, I haven't tried the Movie mode. Bluray movies look/sound fantastic, as does NFL football. A couple of questions: The Automatic Motion (AMP) feature that everyone hates to use, where is that in the menus? Does anyone use the Voice feature for anything except turning the set on/off? It's kind of cute, but is it useful? I have the remote set to control the STB and Blueray player, that's OK. What's this "upconverting" the cable signal all about, I've never heard of that, and what's the best way to do it? This is a great thread. I'm pretty tech-saavy but some of the video terminology I'm not familiar with. What's this HDMI low/black setting all about? Thanks.

I'll do my best but first I'll say I'm glad to hear you have an Apple TV smile.gif If you have a fast internet connected, go get a 3 so you can have 1080p and not be limited to 720p.
Now.... for a lot of use most of the AMP settings stink, but I and a lot of those people are fan of the Clear setting. I feel it's a must personally. It smooths things out without giving you the Soap Opera effect and unlike the other settings (for a lot of us) is doesn't skip frames. AMP = Auto Motion Plus so that should make it easier to find.
I don't use the voice features or any of the included remotes, so I can't help you there.
Upconverting I think is just built in. I've read this set upconvert SD to the HD screen very nicely, but I felt my DirecTV box did a better job, so that's where it happens for me. Nothing you can change on the set to my knowledge.
The HDMI Level should normally just be set to Normal. There are certain inputs though (like my DirecTV DVR) that look washed out with it set to normal, so I have that one input set to Low instead.
post #4137 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebignewt View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

So you plug your Blueray player and your Direct TV output into this receiver, and then one HDMI out to the TV. You select the source from the Yamaha and it upgrades the signal to the Samsung TV and it looks better. You hook up your surround speakers to the amp and the HDMI input makes an optical input unneccessary. Couple of questions. I've got cable TV, does the Yamaha have a coaxial input for that? And as for selecting the source that the Yamaha sends to the TV, I assume you use the remote that comes with it.

I'm sure Rico will answer, but basically, yes, that's what he's doing, although I'm not sold it make the source look better - it can be more convenient though especially if you're doing 5.1 and have built in delays for the sound to match picture perfectly. As for a remote, go grab yourself a Harmony One or 700. You'll control everything with it easily, including your Apple TV with added controls like skipping forward and back like with aDVR. smile.gif You would need a computer to set up the remote though.
post #4138 of 16125
I know several of you have Apple TVs. Apple released a software update today - just so you know.
post #4139 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebignewt View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

Nitra - I do not think this receiver has it - - possibly the new RX-A2020
I do know that there is a considerable difference in the picture from my Yamaha RX-A2000 with processing on as opposed to direct pass thru when it is off with Directv - 1080i to 1080P. (HQV Vida Processor)
It's probably the best investment I've made in my Home Theater setup outside of the UN65ES8000 purchase. Even standard DVD's (and they all can have varying "video" quality depending on how they are filmed & processed) look fantastic. I'm sure other folks have receivers that upgrade the signal as well. I'm a fan of Yamaha but I know there are many good receivers out there that help with video processing and improving the picture quality of your source material.
********************************************************************
So you plug your Blueray player and your Direct TV output into this receiver, and then one HDMI out to the TV. You select the source from the Yamaha and it upgrades the signal to the Samsung TV and it looks better. You hook up your surround speakers to the amp and the HDMI input makes an optical input unneccessary. Couple of questions. I've got cable TV, does the Yamaha have a coaxial input for that? And as for selecting the source that the Yamaha sends to the TV, I assume you use the remote that comes with it.

Yes - HDMI from every source to the integrated Yamaha RX-A2000 amp./receiver and then one HDMI cable to the TV. So any other cable is not needed.

I always thought cable TV connected via HDMI, which would pass video and audio to the receiver. But if you are not connecting your cable box via HDMI (component ??) - then that would handle the audio (L/R to the receiver).

Just in case, the Yamaha receiver does have Coaxial "Inputs" - - as well as "Optical" - - so you could feed audio from your Cable Box that way, as well. Again, and maybe it's my confusion so my apology, but isn't the cable connection to the TV via HDMI? (Two main choices for HDTV - HDMI or Component) If so, that will handle the audio, as well.

Lastly - yes, I use the Yamaha RX-A2000 receiver remote for selecting the right input but I've found that Anynet will make the right connection (even switching to my blu ray &media player) but in reverse, I usually switch the input on the Samsung remote to get back to my Directv. (I turn the Directv box off when watching other sources. Some folks leave it on, but I just turn it off and then reconnect if I'm going to watch satellite.)

It can get a little hairy, at times, with all the remotes but I find it easier than Logitech's Harmony remotes which end up to be as many buttons pushed without as much control. My two main remotes are whatever source I'm watching (Satellite/DVD/Media Player) and my Yamaha RX-A2000 receiver. And...I still fiddle with the Samsung Remote sometimes to optimize the picture (or just cause myself pain??)

The other best purchase I made was a remote "caddy." Most people think I'm nuts when it gets to all the remotes but I know the folks on this forum can relate.

Thx - Rick
post #4140 of 16125
Ricoflashback: Thanks for the reply. My bad, the cablebox output is HDMI. So you think that it's worth it to get a newer surround amp in order for it to upgrade the cable signal and make it look noticably better. I don't know if the cable box itself does that but the picture looks pretty damn good. The amp sounds good with 5.1.
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