Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 172

hello Garnoch
I am surprised about the Contrast 100. Are you using Standard mode?
I am surprised because Nitra is using Contrast 80 in Standard. Myself, I also had to lower Contrast to prevent clipping at high luminance, and I use 76. And Badwilly in post 4970 has clipping with a Contrast 90.
So to me it shows a trend in Standard mode.
However, in Movie mode, I have no clipping with Contrast 100.

I'm using Movie mode, correct. I was using almost the same settings in Standard for a couple days a few weeks ago, but maybe I should check Standard with the BD so my post is correct, thanks.

According to the clipping tests on the AVS disc, my tv was fine with contrast on 95 or maybe even higher. Currently it's on 95.

I'm very interested in trying the settings you're settling with after using the WOW disc. Will you be posting all the color settings too (white balance, temperature, etc.)?

You may have already, Eagle - except with the minor changes made because of the disc. If not, you're welcome to give it a shot. The MOVIE settings I use is in my settings post on pg 117, or just click my name and you'll find a direct link. They've been updated. I'll update Standard tomorrow.
Everything going okay?

SNIP

I've rented from them, and I also had an email exchange. They are good. Small. They responded very fast and personally to my email. They say they use the disk you buy in the store, rather than the cut down versions usually rented. But you don't get the bonus disk (of course??....how sad this has changed).

But you do get whatever audio is on the purchase disk.

New TV update: The picture is very sharp, considerably sharper than the Samsung 7000. I watched Hunger Games today for the second time (first time was last week on the 7000). Man, the nature scenes with lots of green show so sharply it almost hurts (sharpness set to 20).

I'm finding I keep lowering my contrast and increasing my brightness to get what for me is optimal. I'm also finding, within DirectV movies for example, settings vary by movie. I set up for one movie, change channels, and have to re-set contrast, brightness, and often color. And also setting vary by time of day, with a large window facing west. I guess ALL the calibration reports in this thread assume a dedicated room with complete control of light level.

I was trying to use Standard for TV stuff (60 fps) and Movie for movies (24 fps), but I keep adjusting. I'm thinking of returning to the way I've done it for years; Standard for daytime, Movie for evenings when it starts getting dusky.

Finally, I think the green cast I had is diminishing, but it's hard to tell if I'm just adjusting to it. I posted a question in the calibration area, but the response was not helpful (try using warm1 or warm2). Do you know if decreasing the green gain, or increasing the red gain, might address this issue?

Finally finally, I forget if it was Anthony or Garnoch who had the clouding in the shape of a V in the lower center, but my TV has developed this as well. Out of the box, it was perfect. By the end of yesterday, it was more pronounced. Then today it was not quite as bad. Does this thing sometimes go away during break-in? It's only noticeable occasionally; minor annoyance at this point.

Overall, I am quite happy with it. Tomorrow, it gets the Football Test!

PRS, Mesa Boogie, Carvin...wow.
Great stuff indeed.

I'm a Fender guy.
2 American Strats, including an '04 50th Anniversary Am Standard which is a truly amazing instrument.
And an American Standard Tele, and a Luthier scratchbuilt Tele with the most amazing flamed maple neck, and a split coil HB bridge P/U.

Nitra or anyone else: Urgent question! Does the ES8000 let you keep AutionMotionPlus enabled for 3D games? I know AMP should be available for 3D movies, but can you please check 3D games? I just got an HX950 Sony that allows MotionFlow for 3D movies but disables it for 3D games, plus adds tons of crosstalk on 3D games (but not movies!). So I really need to know if I can play 3D games on the ES8000 with AMP on and no crosstalk?! Thanks!!

Man, that's great that you can compare it to a 7000 for everyone. Glad you're so happy. As for you're tweaks, I'm not sure what to say - we've all done it. These panels usually seem a little red heavy, but if yours is a little green heavy instead, then yes, changing color and white balance can help. In addition to changing your Color Tone, you can try different Color Spaces, or go with a Custom Color Space and White Balance. Here's mine as an example, which works great from me and is from CNET. After doing the Disney WOW BD, I didn't change this at all.

Color Space: Custom

Color Space submenu:
Red: Red 50, Green 0, Blue 0

Green: Red 4, Green 48, Blue 4

Blue: Red 2, Green 6, Blue 46

Yellow: Red 52, Green 50, Blue 4

Cyan: Red 0, Green 50, Blue 51

Magenta: Red 40, Green 6, Blue 44



White Balance submenu:

R-Offset: 26

G-Offset: 26

B-Offset: 23

R-Gain: 25

G-Gain: 26

B-Gain: 27



10p White Balance: On

10p White Balance submenu:

Interval 1: Red 0, Green +1, Blue +1

Interval 2: Red 0, Green 0, Blue +1

Interval 3: Red +2, Green +1, Blue +1

Interval 4: Red +2, Green +1, Blue +1

Interval 5: Red +1, Green +1, Blue +1

Interval 6: Red +2, Green +3, Blue +3

Interval 7: Red +1, Green +1, Blue +2

Interval 8: Red +1, Green +1, Blue +3

Interval 9: Red 0, Green 0, Blue +3

Interval 10: Red 0, Green 0, Blue +3



Color Tone: Warm 2

Now as for your clouding or flashlighting, it really does let up somewhat as 3 to 6 weeks go by. But you will notice it way more in Movie mode than the others, which is why some of us are using Dynamic Contrast, Black Tone and perhaps Black Enhancer in Movie mode.

Nice, man!
I don't play much that lends itself to a strat, but when I need that tone, I have an old Peavey "strat" and a 3-tone satin sunburst Schecter Hellraiser Extreme that I can coil tap that I got this year.

Granoch, u said u're using black tone and dynamic contrast in movie mode, what are they set to?

Dark and Low in Movie mode. My setting can be seen by clicking my name, then you'll see a link to my settings on page 117

Assuming I get the chance today, I'll not only give a quick look over in Standard with the WOW BD, but I'll also double check both against the AVS files.

Cool, thanks man, if you were using standard mode though, you wouldn't use black tone right?

and final question, in 3D mode you also use black tone? , if so what is it set to? and same question about dynamic contrast in 3d mode, is it enabled and what is it set to?

Thanks for the feedback. I'm definitely going to try them when I cancel my Blockbuster subscription.

Not that I didn't like Blockbuster - - the main benefit was their in store "exchange" feature - - I really made use of that since Blockbuster rarely shipped what I listed as a priority in my queue.

But 3D is absolutely stunning on my Sammy 65ES8000. If I can watch at least four movies in quality 3D a month - - one every Fri, Sat or Sun - - then it will be worth it to me.

Bluray is also fabulous on this set. And there is no way with all the compression that a streaming 3D movie will equal the quality (especially soundtrack) of a Bluray 3D disk.

Thanks again for the write up.

Best - Rico

^Thanks Garnoch. I'll do this tomorrow...it's football day today!

My First concern; I just noticed last night ....my "film mode" option is unavailable when watching bluray in standard mode on hdmi/dvi input? Does any one know what I may have toggled? I know"auto 1" was the default and remained that way since I got my tv. I did the "reset to default" and film mode stayed off and didn't return to the original default. Any insight is most appreciated. Hdmi2 is fine in std mode with fios.

This is normal. Film Mode does not work with 1080p Blu-ray content. It is additional processing you can turn on to "enhance" non-1080p film-based content. Personally, I have mine set to off in all modes.

I've only watched one 3D Movie so far other than random stuff, and I set it up exactly like my normal mode, but allowed the set to keep the backlight raised because of the dimming of glasses. I haven't fine turned my 3D experience, but I'm happy so far.

I checked a couple of 3D games (Uncharted 3 & ICO) on my UN60ES8000 and AMP is available in both. I tried Clear and Smooth (both worked) but, I switched back to Off. Myself, I'm not a fan of the S.O.E. and find the additional processing and overhead unnecessary. Crosstalk, btw, was minimal, but I only checked each game for a couple of minutes, so YMMV.

I checked the WOW BD in Standard this time. I also checked Standard and Movie with the AVS files. Brightness on Movie was fine at 47, but on Standard, I'll set it back to 46 on WOW and AVS. Contrast on Movie mode was good at 100 on the AVS disc like it was for the WOW BD. Contrast in Standard though seemed okay on the WOW BD at 100, but I thought it maybe could come down. When I checked the AVS file, I confirmed that I felt 98 worked better (which is where I was before I started the whole process anyway). I'll update my settings post.

Keep in mind, this is while sitting in the sweet spot. Some people prefer Contrast lower out of preference or because it slightly minimizes the off angle difference. Also remember, not all panels are alike.

From the AVS PDF:

Black-Level – Most often this control will be called brightness, and you can use chapters 1 and 2 for adjustment. On the first pattern set black-level to the lowest setting where the bars numbered 17-25 flash. For the second pattern it may be more difficult to see 17 flash, and we suggest setting black-level no lower than where you can see 19-28 flash with typical viewing conditions. Some circumstances give the same black-level setting for chapters 1 and 2, and in other situations using the setting from chapter 2 serves as an acceptable compromise.

White-Level – Manufacturers may call this control contrast or picture, and chapters 2 and 3 allow for adjustments. Start by setting white-level very low so you can easily see the bars flash. Ideally you would want to see all the numbered bars 223-253 flash on these two patterns at a low setting, but in some situations the bars numbered 235-253 may never flash. Begin turning up white-level and watch to see if any bars stop flashing as you increase white-level. Generally we suggest using the highest setting available before 244 or lower disappear, but at minimum the 223-234 bars should always flash. On some displays the bars may not disappear even using the highest setting. The White Clipping description goes into further detail, and it includes other items related to white-level, such as color shift.
Edited by Garnoch - 10/7/12 at 9:08am

now that most of you have bought the es8000, are you happy with your purchase? would you recommed it? I have been reading alot of these threads lately its either the 7500 or 8000 model (60")
Thanks

I'm thrilled. For a $300 difference, money wasn't the issue, but I went with the 7500 because I wanted its base and a black surround.

I believe most here are happy with the set. Yes there's some issues, but that could happen with any brand. I personally have no regrets with the purchase. 65" Here

Said perfectly, Op's Guys!

I'll definitely punch those in and give it a try. I'm still planning on getting Best Buy down here for a calibration, because, well, why not for free? I was waiting to see if Samsung was going to do something about microdimming or ce-dimming before I got the set calibrated but they don't seem to be in a hurry to do anything about it.

Yeah, we're doing well other than some sore muscles. That air bag really hits you hard when it opens up. But I'll take that over the alternative. Now the scary part is waiting to see what happens with the insurance claims.

I just messaged somebody my answer to this...i shopped my ass off..forced demo's, forced sales people to move gear around, took my own bluray player and disks with me. I wasnt effing around when shopping for a 3-4k tv.

Re 3D; I did not buy the tv based on 3d, i knew what ever tv i chose would have it...this 3d performance is just a bonus. Thats said, i did know that the Sammy 8000 and Sony HX were considered very good 3d based on reviews...

I chose the 8000 100% based on the 2d performance and not once...never have I looked back or remorsed my decision in 3 months plus of ownership. . I hope this perspective helps.

I was in BB last night to grab a movie, saw the 8000 and Panny vt50...we sooOOOoo made the right choice. This is the best piece of gear I have ever purchased.

p.s. The Elite is sooOOOoo overpriced. OMG!!!! The VT is so overrated double OMG....

Good to hear and I agree that dealing with the while insurance thing is extremely stressful.

I agree that for free, a BB calibration is a no brainer. Even if you change things after, you'll easily get the Cal-Day and Cal-Night menus.

I also have that same V-shaped clouding in the lower center. I really think this is a production defect that those of us who have it should be reporting and getting service for. I think in general clouding is random, but since many of us are having the same exact V-shaped clouding in the same location, clearly something must be causing that during production. It has not faded even slightly and I've owned my set for several months now. It looks particularly bad when I watch extremely dark films, like Alien.