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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 227

post #6781 of 15317
11/17/12 at 11:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

If your wifi does not work all of the sudden, I assume that's why your 46ES8000 can't find any it. I'm kidding, I know you what you meant. Yeah I think this it's possible that the wifi in the TV is messed up, but have you tried restarting the TV, not just putting it to sleep (off), or tried a full reset? If you do, remember to write down all your settings as they'll be reset.

sorry I meant the TV wifi does not work
I did restart it, did factory reset, nothing works, if I call would they replace the part of the whole thing you think?
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post #6782 of 15317
11/17/12 at 11:22am
I just set up a UN60ES8000, and on the Smart Hub Netflix app I *am* getting DD5.1 from the TV to my HTIB. I am using ARC and when I play a movie with DD sound, the TV automatically selects DD (as shown in Menu/Sound) and it is clearly not 2.0 sound. I don't believe I'm hearing PLII, either, as I set the PLII mode on my HTIB to Stereo. One big differentiator in my setup is that my HTIB is an AnyNet+ device, a Samsung HT-D6730. I didn't really need the TV Smart Hub to work as the D6730 has last year's Smart Hub, but I wanted to see if 5.1 output from the TV worked.
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post #6783 of 15317
11/17/12 at 12:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by anis_ber View Post

sorry I meant the TV wifi does not work
I did restart it, did factory reset, nothing works, if I call would they replace the part of the whole thing you think?

WiFi can be screwy, so it could even the the network it's self for some reason, but it sounds like the TV to me too. Samsung doesn't even replace the TV when there is a bad panel, so I don't they would for this. They'll just replace the parts I'd say.
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post #6784 of 15317
11/17/12 at 2:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by photai View Post

I seem to be having the TV rebooting/restarting problem that was discussed several months back. Looking back it seems to have been network related and was fixed by a firmware update. I've had my set since May and never had this issue until about a week ago. It happens both when watching TV through dish receiver and also occurred while watching Netflix through Smart Hub. I'm on the latest firmware 1041.1 and have all audio through a receiver. Dish via hdmi to receiver and then to ES8000 and Smart Hub audio is through optical. Any suggestions? I disconnected the LAN cable to the TV last night but haven't watched enough to see if that fixes it as it can sometimes happen every 5 minutes or not once in hours.

Mine started continually restarting as well I believe 2 updates ago. It's driving me crazy!!! I've literally tried everything but have come to the conclusion that it has something to do with the Wi-Fi. Once it resets (shuts off briefly & back on) I go back and check the network settings and there is no connection. Hopefully this issue will be resolved with a future update. I'm also wondering if it is an issue with my Wi-Fi router and if the Wi-Fi temporarily loses connection it's forcing the TV to reset. For some reason it does it several times a day then will be fine for a few days in a row. Go figure....
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post #6785 of 15317
11/17/12 at 4:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ponziani View Post

I just set up a UN60ES8000, and on the Smart Hub Netflix app I *am* getting DD5.1 from the TV to my HTIB. I am using ARC and when I play a movie with DD sound, the TV automatically selects DD (as shown in Menu/Sound) and it is clearly not 2.0 sound. I don't believe I'm hearing PLII, either, as I set the PLII mode on my HTIB to Stereo. One big differentiator in my setup is that my HTIB is an AnyNet+ device, a Samsung HT-D6730. I didn't really need the TV Smart Hub to work as the D6730 has last year's Smart Hub, but I wanted to see if 5.1 output from the TV worked.

You can get DD out of any ES series Samsung TV. It will not pass DD from another source, but as long as the TV is the source (example Netflix app via SmartHub), you will receive the DD signal on your AVR.
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post #6786 of 15317
11/17/12 at 4:26pm
Latest firmware update - - no problems but I did perform a full reset after the update. The picture looks better with the full reset and then loading in my previous settings and tweaking, if necessary.

This time - - not much tweaking - - pretty much the same settings. And since I know them by heart, it only took about a minute.

Gee, does this make me Compulsive/Obsessive? Or the other way around? Oh wait a minute - - this could be paranoia or schizophrenia too! At any rate - - very happy with the picture down to Wolf Blitzers teeny hairs on CNN. Underworld Awakening in 3D tonight after dinner. Off to my Gin & tonic....Cheers!
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post #6787 of 15317
11/17/12 at 5:18pm
has anyone had an issue of the tv powering up on its own, for instance I came back from the mall to find the tv on after I had turned it off when I left confused.gif
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post #6788 of 15317
11/17/12 at 5:28pm
My UN60ES8000 just came this afternoon and the tv stand was already pre-installed. Does this mean the TV is open box/used?
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post #6789 of 15317
11/17/12 at 5:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoflashback View Post

Latest firmware update - - no problems but I did perform a full reset after the update. The picture looks better with the full reset and then loading in my previous settings and tweaking, if necessary.
This time - - not much tweaking - - pretty much the same settings. And since I know them by heart, it only took about a minute.
Gee, does this make me Compulsive/Obsessive? Or the other way around? Oh wait a minute - - this could be paranoia or schizophrenia too! At any rate - - very happy with the picture down to Wolf Blitzers teeny hairs on CNN. Underworld Awakening in 3D tonight after dinner. Off to my Gin & tonic....Cheers!

NICE! I'm joining you with a Jack & Ginger. Cheers.
I didn't realize you had held off on the update until now. And yes, that's makes you a touch OCD, but I can't talk.
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post #6790 of 15317
11/17/12 at 5:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Nguyen View Post

My UN60ES8000 just came this afternoon and the tv stand was already pre-installed. Does this mean the TV is open box/used?

Someone talked about this a few pages ago and I'm trying to remember.... I can say that the 65" sets come with it on and the 60" 7500 comes with it off, but I seem to remember that the 60" 8000 comes with it on. I may be wrong though, but I think you're okay. Congrats and good luck!
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post #6791 of 15317
11/17/12 at 5:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by slopokeR View Post

has anyone had an issue of the tv powering up on its own, for instance I came back from the mall to find the tv on after I had turned it off when I left confused.gif

Do a search because there have been people with that issue but I can't remember the outcome.
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post #6792 of 15317
11/17/12 at 5:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Nguyen View Post

My UN60ES8000 just came this afternoon and the tv stand was already pre-installed. Does this mean the TV is open box/used?

I believe this is the way the 60 and 65 8000 series come packaged. Lot's of good information can be found on this board for settings and tweaks to maximize your overall picture quality and viewing experience.

Enjoy your new TV - you've purchased an amazing set!
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post #6793 of 15317
11/17/12 at 6:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Do a search because there have been people with that issue but I can't remember the outcome.
I was looking it seems it maybe in the firmware( older) I havent Updated mine yet maybe I should try this before. I decided to take the next step Im reaching my 30days in a few days
if anyone else has anymore info please dont be shy smile.gif
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post #6794 of 15317
11/17/12 at 7:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Nguyen View Post

My UN60ES8000 just came this afternoon and the tv stand was already pre-installed. Does this mean the TV is open box/used?

My 55-inch Series 9 came with the stand attached. I don't even know if it can be removed since the TV circuits are in the base, but my TV is wall mountable with the included bracket.
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post #6795 of 15317
11/17/12 at 8:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Nguyen View Post

My UN60ES8000 just came this afternoon and the tv stand was already pre-installed. Does this mean the TV is open box/used?
....hi John, congrats on buying the best. My 60 came in a sealed box with stand mounted. I assembled my table arm and bracket...then mounted the panel to the bracket, then unscrewed the 6-8 stand mounting screws and voila....its floating in my room. Its super easy to add or take away the stand. It leaves room below for an aesthetically pleasing soundbar or center channel.
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post #6796 of 15317
11/17/12 at 11:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by EAnglum View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ponziani View Post

I just set up a UN60ES8000, and on the Smart Hub Netflix app I *am* getting DD5.1 from the TV to my HTIB. I am using ARC and when I play a movie with DD sound, the TV automatically selects DD (as shown in Menu/Sound) and it is clearly not 2.0 sound. I don't believe I'm hearing PLII, either, as I set the PLII mode on my HTIB to Stereo. One big differentiator in my setup is that my HTIB is an AnyNet+ device, a Samsung HT-D6730. I didn't really need the TV Smart Hub to work as the D6730 has last year's Smart Hub, but I wanted to see if 5.1 output from the TV worked.

You can get DD out of any ES series Samsung TV. It will not pass DD from another source, but as long as the TV is the source (example Netflix app via SmartHub), you will receive the DD signal on your AVR.



Are you sure about that? Some people claim that you do not get DD 5.1 from SmartHub applications via optical audio.


http://www.avsforum.com/t/1438853/official-samsung-smart-hub-fiasco-thread#post_22581404
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post #6797 of 15317
11/18/12 at 1:34am
Hi,

I'm new to this forum but have recently bought an ES8000 55" which I have had for a week. I can already see some clouding in all four corners of the set which I'm not happy about but other than this (and still trying to get the calibration settings correct) I'm fairly happy with the set.

I do have a fairly large living room and was hoping to get a larger tv but this is all I could afford.

I was in the Panasonic shop yesterday and they have the 65" ST50 Plasma on offer at £1800 which is obviously a lot more tv for the money and I'm wondering what peoples thoughts are on this set and if I should consider exchanging ?

Never had a plasma and people have steered me away from them saying LEDs are much better.

Any advise would be welcome ! smile.gif
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post #6798 of 15317
11/18/12 at 2:11am
So what Standard settings are people using with the CE dimming workaround? (brightness at 53) It certainly works to control the dimming, I'm just trying to maximise black levels without crush , I can't quite seem to get the balance right, not far off but there's room for improvement.
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post #6799 of 15317
11/18/12 at 4:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Palmer_Cass View Post

Are you sure about that? Some people claim that you do not get DD 5.1 from SmartHub applications via optical audio.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1438853/official-samsung-smart-hub-fiasco-thread#post_22581404

Yes, I am quite sure.

Not all Netflix streams have 5.1, but when it does specify 5.1 as being part of the stream, my AVR goes into DD 5.1 mode and I do hear 5.1 audio - just as if I was watching it on a blu-ray.
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post #6800 of 15317
11/18/12 at 4:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Yeah I agree the picture looked funky so I'm glad that this firmware update fixed that for you. I'm not sure what that is though. Micro Dimming maybe? The dimming I always referred to is when very dark scened are turned turned even darker over the entire picture, basically automatically turning the backlight farther down during dark scenes to minimize perceived clouding and flashlighting and creating better perceived blacks.

Well I think it's the combination of both micro dimming and ce dimming. Are you sure you just saw ce dimming act in dark scenes? I've seen it active in half dark scenes either.
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post #6801 of 15317
11/18/12 at 6:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by EAnglum View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Palmer_Cass View Post

Are you sure about that? Some people claim that you do not get DD 5.1 from SmartHub applications via optical audio.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1438853/official-samsung-smart-hub-fiasco-thread#post_22581404

Yes, I am quite sure.

Not all Netflix streams have 5.1, but when it does specify 5.1 as being part of the stream, my AVR goes into DD 5.1 mode and I do hear 5.1 audio - just as if I was watching it on a blu-ray.



Is your audio connection to the AVR via the TV optical connection or the TV HDMI with ARC connection?
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post #6802 of 15317
11/18/12 at 7:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Yeah I agree the picture looked funky so I'm glad that this firmware update fixed that for you. I'm not sure what that is though. Micro Dimming maybe? The dimming I always referred to is when very dark scened are turned turned even darker over the entire picture, basically automatically turning the backlight farther down during dark scenes to minimize perceived clouding and flashlighting and creating better perceived blacks.

Garnoch,

I had another question. I'm currently using your settings and I think their pretty awesome. However, I'm wondering what the contrast setting should be. There's a big difference between your setting (97) and Nitra's setting (80). Although for the eye 97 really looks more beautiful, I'm wondering if white detail is lost on this setting. When I use the Disney Wow disk for calibration I just can not see the supposed right patterns at all. So I'm not coming any further with that. So, what's the best way to go, and how come there is such a great difference between your settings and Nitra's ?
Edited by Stefanhvt - 11/18/12 at 7:49am
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post #6803 of 15317
11/18/12 at 8:07am
One benefit of a lower contrast setting, at least on my set, is that off axis viewing does not suffer washing out as much....I think Nitra suggested this way back and it certainly helps me. I have also found that when viewing white / red / blue / green clipping patterns that if I can first find a combination of backlight / brightness / contrast / gamma that first meets the white / black patterns AND minimizes the contrast number I suffer less clipping in red and green.
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post #6804 of 15317
11/18/12 at 8:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Palmer_Cass View Post

Is your audio connection to the AVR via the TV optical connection or the TV HDMI with ARC connection?

optical connection from TV to AVR.
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post #6805 of 15317
11/18/12 at 8:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by NP2Wilz View Post

Hi,
I'm new to this forum but have recently bought an ES8000 55" which I have had for a week. I can already see some clouding in all four corners of the set which I'm not happy about but other than this (and still trying to get the calibration settings correct) I'm fairly happy with the set.
I do have a fairly large living room and was hoping to get a larger tv but this is all I could afford.
I was in the Panasonic shop yesterday and they have the 65" ST50 Plasma on offer at £1800 which is obviously a lot more tv for the money and I'm wondering what peoples thoughts are on this set and if I should consider exchanging ?
Never had a plasma and people have steered me away from them saying LEDs are much better.
Any advise would be welcome ! smile.gif

There are settings that will help somewhat with your flashlighting corners (including time) and and because of my watching environment, a plasma wouldn't work, so if money were the issue, I may have done for a 60" ES7500 over a 55" ES 7500. If your environment is usually dark though and you can deal with the downsides of plasma (everything has downsides), then try it out being you would prefer a larger TV for the money.
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post #6806 of 15317
11/18/12 at 8:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by arenaman View Post

So what Standard settings are people using with the CE dimming workaround? (brightness at 53) It certainly works to control the dimming, I'm just trying to maximise black levels without crush , I can't quite seem to get the balance right, not far off but there's room for improvement.

I'm doing it right now still and my settings can be found on pg 117 or by clicking my name, where you'll see a direct link to my settings. Good luck!
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post #6807 of 15317
11/18/12 at 8:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by englechgc View Post

I game with Game mode on with some minor tweaks to the settings. I think it looks great. I play a lot of First person shooters such as Call of Duty and Battlefield 3. There is some noticeable input lag when not in game mode. Game mode on factory settings looks like crap. You will have to bring the sharpness and contrast down a bit.1.gif

I agree all the factory settings look like crap, especially because of sharpness being way too high. Thanks for that. Our Wii U shipped today and I'll set it up that way.
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post #6808 of 15317
11/18/12 at 8:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefanhvt View Post

Garnoch,
I had another question. I'm currently using your settings and I think their pretty awesome. However, I'm wondering what the contrast setting should be. There's a big difference between your setting (97) and Nitra's setting (80). Although for the eye 97 really looks more beautiful, I'm wondering if white detail is lost on this setting. When I use the Disney Wow disk for calibration I just can not see the supposed right patterns at all. So I'm not coming any further with that. So, what's the best way to go, and how come there is such a great difference between your settings and Nitra's ?

I really think that depends on your panel. I think people have panels like Nitra's (80) and panels like CNET (100) and maybe everything in between. With the WOW disc and AVS files, my settings are right for my panel. Here's what I suggest being you're happy with it overall. Keep all the fine tuned color, white balance and extra settings you have but use your discs and files to fine tune your Brightness, Contrast an overall Color setting.

As for the CE Dimming, The scene has to be fairly dark. I'm not sure how to explain it except by describing my Star Wars test. As the beginning scroll goes away to just a star field, you see the screen darken. The as the camera either pans to a ship or a planet, the screen brightens again, even though a lot of the screen is still just a star field.
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post #6809 of 15317
11/18/12 at 8:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtm73 View Post

One benefit of a lower contrast setting, at least on my set, is that off axis viewing does not suffer washing out as much....I think Nitra suggested this way back and it certainly helps me. I have also found that when viewing white / red / blue / green clipping patterns that if I can first find a combination of backlight / brightness / contrast / gamma that first meets the white / black patterns AND minimizes the contrast number I suffer less clipping in red and green.

Yeah, Nitra did suggest this. And although I find it to also be true, I don't care for doing it for that purpose for two reasons. One is that although the difference in viewing angels may be lessened, I find the picture looks worse when viewed from any angle, so I'd rather have more of a difference but a better picture. The second and most important is that I would prefer having the TV set up correctly. Nitra used meters and software when calibrating his panel, so I've never been able to figure out how his settings worked right if he turned down the Contrast just to achieve more consistent viewing angles. Unless of course, the lower Contrast setting is what worked best anyway for the calibration of his panel. And if that's true, then I would again say to have the correct settings for your panel. This is all just my opinion though.
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post #6810 of 15317
11/18/12 at 9:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtm73 View Post

One benefit of a lower contrast setting, at least on my set, is that off axis viewing does not suffer washing out as much....I think Nitra suggested this way back and it certainly helps me. I have also found that when viewing white / red / blue / green clipping patterns that if I can first find a combination of backlight / brightness / contrast / gamma that first meets the white / black patterns AND minimizes the contrast number I suffer less clipping in red and green.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Yeah, Nitra did suggest this. And although I find it to also be true, I don't care for doing it for that purpose for two reasons. One is that although the difference in viewing angels may be lessened, I find the picture looks worse when viewed from any angle, so I'd rather have more of a difference but a better picture. The second and most important is that I would prefer having the TV set up correctly. Nitra used meters and software when calibrating his panel, so I've never been able to figure out how his settings worked right if he turned down the Contrast just to achieve more consistent viewing angles. Unless of course, the lower Contrast setting is what worked best anyway for the calibration of his panel. And if that's true, then I would again say to have the correct settings for your panel. This is all just my opinion though.

I'm not concerned on viewing angle either. Just want to set the contrast at a level to avoid clipping. Cnet's movie mode settings have contrast at 100, but the setting for standard mode is 90 according to their calibration. I think I set to 90 for now. It's a good in-between.
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