Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 27

Here are some pics





I don't know why the thumbnails are broken but just click each to view

That is not what I want to hear. Especially for a $3,400 TV. *SMH* @ Samsung.

Hi. Is there the dreaded panel lottery with these as well? Any feedback yet in terms of the good vs the bad.

Thank you

I mentioned a few posts ago that the latest firmware didn't fix the Game Mode issue. I was kinda incorrect. Like the D8000 for some reason the online upgrade through the TV isn't really updating to the latest firmware. I actually download the latest firmware which I think is 1016, and that has corrected the Game Mode video sync issue.

Also I know many have been hammering the voice and gesture controls. Initially I had them off and wasn't planning on using them. For giggles I set them up today, and yeah the gesture controls aren't perfect, however they do work. But the voice control is very good. I mean the only thing I might use it for is powering the tv on and off, and switching inputs, but still it works really well.

Voice controls are terrible for me. I am not on the current firmware- I wonder if that helps? Might try and update this weekend and see if it helps.

Are there really no REAL reviews for this TV? There's reviews for sets that haven't even hit retail yet. hMMmm

Review up from techzilla http://revision3.com/tekzilla/google-drive

Thanks! 2 things that plague this set is black uniformity and cloud spots. That is really disappointing. I agree with what he said, they should have left cinema black. I wonder if the set they were using needed a break-in period or maybe they had the backlight too high causing these issues? My flash light spots have pretty much disappeared on my D8000 after a few weeks & calibration. I wonder if that will still hold true with the ES8000? UgggH decisions, decisions.

I've had the TV since Tuesday and while I am nowhere near the end of the break-in period... I've been jiggling around with the calibration settings (I've also purchased a wow calibration disc to evaluate/assess the set) and last night I've noticed the bleed spots on the edges have improved...

I'll have much more time to test this coming weekend so will provide an update once I get some materal results.

P.S - In response to my original 1st post about the "washing out" of colours... I initially said it wasn't noticeable but when performing a colour purity test (ie: setting the whole screen in a magenta colour) the discolouration was noticable. I was basically adjusting my viewing angle by approx. 10 to 20 degrees from the center point and I can see it. I'll likely retest this over the weekend.

P.P.S - What is the best way to "break-in" an LED LCD? IS there a specific picture I am to be playing or can I just run a pixel flip test overnight???

TIA.

I don't know, I haven't noticed any major black uniformity issues with mine. And the only clouding issues I've noticed is within letterbox bars at times (and I should say my set has very few hours on it so far so I wonder what happens once I fully break-in). Very surprised Cinema Black option is gone as that did wonders with the D8000. Though I wonder if that could find it's way back into the set through firmware. But between using the black level setting and the new black enhancer setting to me images look really good.

The es8000 cannot physically do cinema black, the d8000 achieved cinema black by locally turning off the leds where the black bars are. The es8000 doesn't locally dim it's LEDs so it can't achieve the effect in a dark room. I am interested to see how the TV performs in the real world in a dark room. It seems the reviews that have came out aren't too focused on pq details and black levels.

I returned my UN55ES8000 last week and I'm missing her already. I decided to return her because I felt I wasn't getting all that the TV claimed (voice command, gesture control). I was around Fry's Electronic today and they had the ES8000 next to the LG 55LM7600 and I noticed the Samsung had more detail. I really wanted the LG to be as good (picture quality) as the Samsung because the passive 3d worked better with my eyes (one of my eye is 20/20 and the other 20/30) but I guess I have to keep waiting. I really miss the Samsung, the last movie I watched was Back to the Future and the picture quality was amazing. I felt like I was watching a movie that was filmed recently.

They said that they will get the LG 55LM8600 ( dual core vs 55LM7600 no dual core) next weekend so I hope the picture quality is comparable to the UN55ES8000.

Well in my real world dark room the pq a black level is great. The little clouding in the letterbox bars is only noticeable during some dark scenes. Having had the d8000 I can say the es8000 is a MUCH better set. And compared to other sets I'll take the es8000. And I'm sure some will call me crazy, but I feel all tvs these days have pros and cons, there is no such thing anymore of a perfect tv. It's just a matter of what cons you can live with.

Oh and has anyone figured out some good audio settings, I'm not digging the presets that much, and haven't been able to get a good EQ?

I can agree all TVs have pros and cons, the d8000 biggest con was its uniformity I hope they improved that on the es8000. I was thinking about getting a es8000 but I think I will skip a few years because I got the c8000 and d8000, I'm quite satisfied with my d8000 for now.

I just wanted to mention a few thing quickly. First off, SD content on this set looks great! My kids watch a lot of Nick Jr on Dish so I noticed it pretty quick. Tekzilla also noted how good SD looked on this set briefly in their video review of the ES8000. My D8000 looked pretty grainy with SD content compared to this

There is still some work to be done with the Auto Motion Plus settings. Even on Clear, which was silky smooth to me last year on the D8000 after a few software updates, I'm noticing this set having a hard time keeping up with the action from time to time. Watching the NBA Playoffs yesterday and today, during fast action it would seem a bit laggy and then AMP would seem to kick on and start to smooth things over. I would rewind to the same trouble spot to try and see the stuttering again, but then the set would have no problem. Weird. I don't know if the response time of AMP is just not fast enough initially or what the deal is

Secondly, I'd like to note the improvement of the 2D to 3D capability again on the ES8000, even when set to "Auto". Watching the NBA Playoffs last year on the D8000 using this feature set to "Auto" just didn't add much to the experience and was kind of weak depth wise. This set adds depth in a very crisp way and handles motion in 3D a lot better. Even the default Auto setting which was thought to be too conservative on last year's D8000 now looks good on Auto (even on playoff basketball) and gives off a nice crisp sense of depth

There are a lot of skeptics of the on the fly 2D-3D conversion understandably. Most CNET reviewers dismiss it right away in every bluray player or tv review it seems. I disagree with that approach because not all 2D-3D is created equally from brand to brand. Even the skeptics should give 2D-3D another go around with the ES8000 as I believe it is the best implementation of the feature to date on a consumer device. But yeah, it's not "real" 3D so it is not going to satisfy the most hardcore purists

Last but not least, I see a lot of people complaining about this thread being too slow! I think that's because most of us are enjoying our sets! Maybe that's a good sign

Hey guys. I had a couple questions. People were saying they could adjust the 3D depth, but whenever I go to change it, it's greyed out. Anyway to get around that?

Also, in terms of break in period, are there proper settings to keep it on? Or just general use?

Thanks guys.

Edit: I think I answered my own question regarding depth. I believe it's only for 2D to 3D conversion?

Correct, I was referring to changing the 3D setting to Manual and adjusting dpeth with 2D-3D conversions (Auto works well on this set too)

With any 3D Bluray, you don't want to change those settings even though some bluray players and tvs allow for it. 3D blurays are already mastered at the right depth and there is no need for change as it will usually create undesirable results

As for breaking your LED tv in, there is no required break in periods for LCD's/LED's but around 100 hours will usually soften the backlight some. I'm not an expert on this but I'd recommend doing it through normal viewing. If you do leave the set on, just remember that an LED is still subject to burn in to some extent and make sure it's a tv channel with no tickers at the bottom or static logos, because it must have a constantly moving image. Don't use a bluray or anything but a tv channel

Again, I would just recommend normal viewing. My set is on and being viewed by family for around 12-15 hours each day with a backlight of 13 and I noticed my corner flashlighting disappeared in less than a week after I first got the set. I remember reading that a warmer tv will always perform better and that Samsung has even gone on record to say that 3D crosstalk is less of an issue once a set has been warmed up

Hi, all. I received the set this morning and let me tell you:

From a somewhat experienced high-end HDTV across all manufacturers, I'm giving the crown to the Sammy UN46ES8000. By "experienced," I mean to say that I've had several deal-breaking issues with just about every set I've owned over the last year, which included the following:

1) LG LX9500
2) Samsung UN55D8000
3) Samsung PN59D8000
4) Sony HX929 (four defective sets in a row)
5) LG LM7600

I've been on a tirade for finding the perfect set ever since I sold some old music equipment during Spring 2011.

First, before I make any direct comparisons, let me express myself a bit over the UNES8000's picture quality and features.

PQ
BRIGHT!!! I recently removed my blackout curtains in order to remedy some of that illness called claustrophobia/depression, and I was a bit worried that my room's newfound brightness would cause the picture to suffer, as I heard the panel was highly reflective and previous sets suffered from lesser light outputs.

Needless to say, I popped in my Disney WoW calibrator disc to get my contrast/brightness/color levels right, and from there I played with the backlight setting. This thing has NO trouble displaying a poppy picture in even the brightest viewing areas! Reflection hasn't been even a slight issue so far.

This thing, despite the reviews I"ve been reading, gets black. Not as black as a full-array dimming set like the Sony HX929, but it has the "it's off" look when black is present on the screen, at least during the day. Night is upon me, and the blacks are still great/above average. I noticed a bit of light bleed on the bottom of the set, and a wee bit of clouding, but that was a consequence of forgetting to dim the backlight for night hours. At 8, which STILL provides tons of light output and punch, the set suffers from VERY MINIMAL black uniformity errors, especially after coming from the much more flawed LM7600, which had flashlighting and clouding galore.

At first, I was convinced that I had some sort of color-enhancing setting turned on after seeing how rich the colors on this set were. If you're looking for a poppy, instantly-gratifying picture, this is it! It saturates without becoming pasty or sacrificing its natural tones in scenes that require it. Surely enough, the WoW disc confirmed that what I was seeing is perfectly set color levels and NOT oversaturation.

The 3D is breathtaking. Having had some extensive hands on with both the PND8000 and the UND8000, both of which had SUPERB 3D PQ, this set raises the bar somehow. There is no flickering or eyestrain, and the various motion settings do well to create a fluid viewing experience. Backlight can be adjusted in this mode, so you can adjust to create eye-gouging brightness or dampened, cinema-esque experieces. I saw absolute NO crosstalk during the many trailers I watched and games I played.

As someone mentioned, 2D-to-3D is far less jarring than has been evident on other sets. Other conversions mix up depth and pop, resulting in a wavy paper trail of pictures; however, from my limited time with this feature on the UNES8000, it actually conveyed realistic 3D depth and the resolution seems just as sharp as with genuine 3D content.

The voice recognition works surprisingly well, even though I would consider myself having a rather muddled voice. I don't speak very clearly, but this thing has responded accurately each time I've said something. No random reactions have occurred yet either.

Gesture control leaves something to be desired. I can't consistently get it to fire up, unless I'm kneeling on the floor. Odd. It's a little less accurate than my Kinect, and functional, but the startup issue is definitely a problem.

The Game Mode issue is here; the screen turns pink randomly when you flip to Game Mode; however, this is easily fixable with a shutdown/startup. Response time is great; I'm a VERY picky Marvel vs. Capcom 2/3 player and I can perform time-sensitive infinites and loops with no problem. Even Skull Girls, a game which requires a more keen sense of timing than the latter two games, is FULLY enjoyable on Game Mode.

I know Sony's HX929 is touted as having the best motion tech around, but honestly, Sammy's "Clear" setting feels more alive and realistic than anything I"ve seen from any other set, including the Sony. Moreover, each Sony set I had was plagued by horrid color shift problems (left to right, cool to warm), banding, random bright spots, etc. Unless I just so happened to draw 4 defective sets, I cannot understand how the Sony has gotten so much praise from critical reviewers. Also, I feel as though the full-array dimming somehow clips SOMETHING, as I was never able to get a fully enjoyable calibration PQ no matter the settings applied. With the Sammy, it was as easy as pushing down the top-end red (this thing starts with a red push) to 15, and BAM! The PQ was immediately satisfying.

Perhaps most importantly, the edge blooming of the UND8000 has been significantly reduced. I don't think it's completely gone, as I can still spot slightly lighter-colored gravel colors, but blues, magentas, and yellows are completely bloom-free!!! These were the headache colors from the UND8000, and now you get a greatly, while not perfectly, uniform picture.

Despite my long and positive rant, I am currently in the process of getting an exchange/repair due to two stuck pixels. Oddly enough, these are covered in Samsung's warranty; however, even with them, NONE of the above sets can compare to the Sammy in my opinion. The closest, in terms of consistency and value, is the PND8000; however, each of the others was seriously lacking in one or more areas.

Currently, I'm running WoW's pixel flipper in hopes of fixing the stuck pixels; if I can manage that without having to resort to drawn-out returns/repairs, then this will be a [FINALLY] happy camper.

Hope this helps and offends not!

is there a way to play split screen games and have each person view it as full screen when they have the glasses on? I see this done on LG, can this tv do it? Can someone give me the correct terms for this?

Thanks a lot swugly for your very insightful review on the ES8000. I for one appreciate your gaming background and your experiences regarding gaming as I too intend on doing a bit of gaming on my set as well. I'm currently waiting for my set as it should arrive early next week, hopefully I'll be in luck and as happy as you are with your set.

I too own a couple of Samsung Plasma's and ready to make the leap to LED and this model is top of the list. I havent seen one in action but read, as many of you have, the reviews: cnet, etc and the issue of banding.

Is it really that bad? Is this worth over looking for you or has it been a deal breaker for you?

Please advise...

There is some DSE, but it is SLIGHT compared to all models I've tested. As for as horizontal or vertical banding? I don't see any, and believe me - I know what banding looks like!

To be perfectly honest, I haven't really seen anyone complain about banding on this set much if at all.

But despite my glowing review posted earlier, I've developed a total of FOUR stuck pixels after playing Skull Girls for about 2 hours.

I'm running the Pixel Flipper all night, and if I can't get it to correct itself, I'm contacting Amazon or Samsung to get this taken care of.

Sucks that I've finally found the nigh-perfect set and THIS has to happen...hahaha.

I just got my UN55ES7500. I looked for a forum for that but when I search, it gave me this forum. So, figured I would just post here. If there is a forum for the ES7500, can someone send me the link?

The other question I have is about a keyboard and mouse. Do we have to buy and use the "Samsung" keyboard? Or are there other compatible Bluetooth keyboards we can use??

Here is a link to the thread on the ES7500.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1401159
There is not much information yet. Ask a few question on that one and maybe it will start to take off. I am also looking for calibration settings. I have the same model as you. I was able to pair a HP Touchpad bluetooth keyboard but I have not tried it yet.

One thing that is really annoying to me is that despite how I program my Harmony 700 remote, it ALWAYS reverts, or sends a signal back to my AVR switching the source to "TV". I have it programmed to turn on TV>AVR>DIRECTV. Everything comes on fine, after about 10 seconds the AVR switches to TV (as opposed to staying on HDMI 2). I assume it's the Samsung sending the signal to the AVR.

Thanks! I'll post the same question there.. Let me know if that keyboard works..

That's a lil comforting as I'm getting rid of my UN55D8000 for something(?) lol I'm looking at this set as a replacement. It's due to 2 horizontal band lines that peak their ugly heads out during vertical camera panning or movies that have flat shades of color(mostly grey). Call me crazy but it drives me nuts! I'm also worried about flashlighting, although my D8000 has broken in and it seems to have dissipated quite a bit.

This problem has been around for years. Since you have a Harmony, simply turn off HDMI-CEC (called Anynet in Samsung devices) on your TV, AVR, Blu ray player, etc. Make sure it stays off by turning them off and then turning them back on... it has a mind of it's own. Then reset your Harmony and program it again from scratch, very simply, and without any delays, extra commands etc.

I know the problem exists on Samsung TVs, HTs, and Blu ray players, and on Denon and Yamaha receivers.

This.

I concur. Compared to the bad banding on many D8000's it really seems to be a non-issue on this set. Probably a good thing they got rid of the hardware dimming (since it wasn't fully backlit anyway) and fixed many of the panel issues that plagued 2011 LED's

I just received my 60" Samsung ES8000. I am terribly dissapointed on the heavy flashlighting from the four courner aiming to the middle of the tv. I owned the C8000 and didnt have this problem at all. On the plus side this must be the best picture quality I have ever seen. But every time theres a dark scene or I change channel and see those damn flashlights I get turned off. This might be a dealbreaker. Does anybody know if this problem will disappear as I break the tv in?