Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 30

Okay, so Amazon delayed my shipment to Monday(few posts earlier I explained that the first 60es8000 they delivered was damaged), so I cancelled it completely, never had a problem with them until now, whatever.

I'm too antsy to wait for another one, so I bit the bullet and settled for the 55" version at bestbuy(god do I hate shopping there, no I don't want to buy $60 HDMI cables).

Went through set-up last night and could not connect to the Samsung app store. Anyone experience the following error: "Network interference, cannot connect" followed by a code with numbers? Kept giving me the same thing when I tried to sign up for the Samsung account.

Other than that, t.v. looks great and the 3d really works well(didn't notice any cross talk).

Did notice a little flashlighting in the corners when standing up close, but really not bad at all.

That error seems to be common but self-remedied occurrence. I had it happen one morning after setting up the internet the previous night. I checked network settings repeatedly and everything was fine, but I still kept getting the error.

It eventually, by the day's end, was fixed without my input. So don't worry too much.

I have a question of my own: does anyone know how to "start" the gesture controls? I can't get it to pick my waving up no matter how hard I try.

I've had the same problem with the gesture controls too, originally I've failed the camera lighting test several times because the area in which I have the set is too dark, I've had to place lights about to increase the brightness in the room. So in my experience what I find works is, being in a well lit environment and sitting about 5.5ft-6ft from my tv at an leveled position to the camera and begin waving slowly, gradually increase speed a lil if it hasn't picked up your motion yet. Hope that helps

Actually for me the ES ended up being $100 less then what I paid for the D. So it all really depends on what you paid.

Oh, so they go off your purchase price. Then I would be paying a lot since I purchased the d8000 for $1785.

You were correct, it remedied itself and I was able to visit the app store yesterday.

Anyone know if they are getting the Angry Birds app like they said they were?

That's if you go through the store return process which is what they try to do first. I got no clue how they handle it if Samsung sends you a replacement directly.

this might be a little off topic sorry for that, but im thinking of getting the 60es7500, and im comparing it to the 70le847 sharp, has any one done any comparisons of the 2, in my situation there both the same price the sam comes with 4 pairs of glasses and a BD player the sharp just 2 pairs of glasses do you guys have any opinions, sorry if its off topic i did post a thread but i wanted to get opinions from people who own the es7500 or es8000 thanks guys

I am pretty sure there is a SEPERATE ES7500 thread..............

I mentioned this before but didn't get any traction... Maybe if I ask a different way.

Does anyone know if you can get real Dolby/DTS to pass out of the optical cable to a receiver?

My only options appear to be PCM and DTS Neo 2:5, the others are grayed out. When plugging the HDMI into my receiver directly instead, I am getting the correct stream.

Thanks.

The es7500 is pretty much identical to the Es8000 (Micro dimming ultra and cosmetics withholding) While Sammy will have better color reproduction, personally I would take +10 inch in screen size any day. Go with the Sharp if you have the space, you won't regret it - it's a good TV.

Unless there is a noticeable difference in picture quality I would say it's a no brainer that the 7100 series is the one to buy. I can do without all the useless features that the higher models bring.

So far I see that only the 46" inch variant is available though.

If the PN60E7000 I have coming has an intolerable panel buzz then the ES7100 may be my next alternative.

You should be able to get 5.1 audio back from your TV using an optical cable, as long as the audio source is an internal app i.e. Netflix, Hulu, etc.

However, your tv cannot be a HD audio passthrough for other device's audio such as a bluray player or sound receiver plugged into your tv via HDMI (and back out with an optical audio cable). In that scenario the manual states you would only get 2.1. Hope this helps

Yes, that helps, not what I wanted to hear, but I must have missed it in the manual. Looks like I need to rethink keeping my Pioneer Elite SC-07.

Thanks!

Anyone tried the latest F/W 1017.8 from the Samsung website?

No update in the UK yet.

Improves picture so be interesting to see if that is visible!

Downloading now, since of course the TV doesn't see any new updates online. The patch notes look exactly the same as the last patch.

I downloaded it last night, I notice NOTHING changed

What is everyone's thought on an extended warranty for the ES8000 tvs?

I am a bit shocked that their flagship model only has a 12 month warranty.
I would hate to be spending $3k again for a new one.
I am not a guy who typically buys an extended warranty for electronics, but this TV has me thinking that I might.
Since I purchased it from Amazon, there doesn't seem to be any warranty to buy, unlike Fry's if I had bought it from them.
I have found http://www.squaretrade.com/pages/ they offer an extended warranty on just about everything.

What is everyone's thought on this?

Mine was attached to.

The patch does look the same (or at least the description does). I wouldn't be suprised to see more picture quality improvements and any further DLNA issues being resolved also in this second patch. But it is suspicious to see the same "Hi TV to Smart TV" command changes listed here that were also on the last patch

From samsung.com:

1. This firmware is for TV Model(s): UN**ES7500 and UN**ES8000.
2. The version is 1017.8
3. This firmware update will improve the following: - Resolves compatibility issue with DLNA devices and network router/switch. - Improves picture quality. - Enhances Voice Recognition feature. - hange the TV Power On command from ''Hi TV'' to ''Hi TV Power On'' or ''Smart TV'' to ''Smart TV Power On.''


Squaretrade is usually cheaper and I have found their service to be mostly hassle free. I bought the accidental drops/spills coverage a year ago for my Xbox and it saved me from having to buy a new 360 when it took a fall. Exchange was easy and hassle free, and I opted for an Amazon gift card rather than waiting on a check. As far as HDTV coverage I don't personally know how good their replacement/in home service is. I would check out some reviews for yourself on Amazon

Here's what I came up with on Amazon for Squaretrade:
$211 for 4 years coverage of up to $2500 for an LCD/LED seems like the best deal for this set (It was almost $90 more for the next highest coverage, up to $3000)

http://www.amazon.com/SquareTrade-4-...pr_product_top

Just be aware that if they service the tv multiple times it is all deducted from that maximum amount of $2500, so you will use your coverage amount up over 4 years if it is serviced multiple times. From what I read, they will also replace your set or pay out the amount

However, with a Samsung extended warranty you are going to pay 2 times more BUT they cover by the length of the contract and not the amount. It is a matter of preference really. The Squaretrade reviews I glanced at were a mixed bag but mostly positive for their tv insurance

Update: I just opened a letter from Samsung that I got the other day. It's an offer for their extended warranty for the D8000 that I exchanged. I expect prices for the ES8000 to be the same or very similar. Here's what was offered:
3 Year Plan $474.99 (or 3 payments of $159.83)
1 Year Plan $194.99 (or 3 payments of $66.50)
You get more financial coverage with the Samsung warranty, but you also pay more than the Squaretrade warranty, and get one less year

For those who didn't already know, when you register on the samsung.com for you one year warranty, you also get an additional 3 months
And when you near the end of your original 1 year warranty, you'll get an "invitation" letter from Samsung to purcnase their extended warranty plan. Depending on how long the model you bought has been out, you may not be able to call and purchase the extended warranty until later on in the year when they introduce that model into their extended coverage, or until you receive an "invitation" letter

Well I took and update over the internet says 1017, But all I can say is that update broke my DLNA. Before I was able to view movies from my NAS now I can not.

Hi guys. I've had an amazing run with this set, and here's a follow-up of my dead pixel situation.

I've since gained two more dead/stuck pixels and using the Pixel Flipper on WoW didn't help at all.

Also, I've begun to notice a faint vertical dark band that shows up on light black scenes. It shows up nowhere else except for this specific screen color.

Lastly, clouding was a bit worse than initially expected, including the "V-shaped" spot above the logo that has refused to go away after multiple hours of gaming/movie-watching.

I've contacted Amazon and they issued a replacement set. I'm a bit nervous the set was pretty amazing, and I really don't want to get a lesser one...

How are you guys faring? Any dead pixels? Clouding better/worse? Any bands such as the one I described?

I haven't as yet seen any calibration results for this set posted (mine is the euro version as you can tell from the UE in the front). My results are about as good as I could hope to get without having an external color management system, as the controls available on the set (10p white balance and RGB color space) allow fine control of both grayscale and color. I'm very happy to say the least.

The only thing marring the results is the delta-E on my blue primary, which has some red in it that cannot be eliminated, although to put it in perspective, it has a delta-E of 3.7, which is close to imperceptible. I'm not sure if this is coming from the TV itself, the source, or my AVR. I'll need to check with a second BD player directly connected to the TV to narrow it down. Anyway, the TV controls will allow me to add red to the blue primary, but not take it away, as they presume there is no red in there to start with (the RGB equivalent for my measured blue primary is RGB [47.35, 0, 244.48], so you can see the bit of red there). This of course affects cyan as well, although I can correct for the error in magenta by taking out some red.

The gamma is almost perfect. I just noticed the slight blip at 80 IRE (it's 2.25 gamma at 80 IRE, rather than the 2.2 I was targeting) which can easily be removed by fiddling a little with the 10p white balance and proportionately decreasing the three RGB controls to get the gamma down a tad. I have almost perfect color temp of D65 across the entire range. The lower end of the range is much more sensitive to adjustments, so harder to get spot on, as an adjustment of one step can scale the R, G or B output by 4% - 8%, which is often too much, causing overshoot.

The only other LCD display I've been able to get such a perfect result out of is my calibrated AND profiled Dell U2711 27" IPS panel. If you're insistent on having a set that can be calibrated properly, then I don't think this one will disappoint you. I'd be very interested to see what other people are achieving out of this TV...

[Click on the images for a full size one]

1. Grayscale



2. Primaries and secondaries



3. Luminance



4. Color temperature



5. Gamma



6. RGB Levels



And for those who want to look at the data more closely, here's a link to the measurements taken in HCFR: Samsung UA55ES8000 Calibration Results.chc

UPDATE: calibration altered slightly to fix the gamma at Gray 80 IRE

Well, now! Don't be stingy! Throw your settings up for all to see, why dontcha???

I'm not sure it would be very useful though, and probably should not be just duplicated. The adjustment is so fine that it's likely very specific to this panel and my source and AVR. Also, I tend to run my display ftL a little bit lower than most people would find comfortable. I'll copy them down and post them when I get a moment...

I'd greatly appreciate it!

I'm of the mentality that specific sets across the same model aren't THAT different in terms of their calibrations.

I had 5 different Sony HX929 sets, which I spent some time calibrating; the calibrations between the sets differed very insubstantially, like one notch from Brightness or one step up to Color.

A good starting point, if nothing else.

Can somebody drop some data on how ES8000 performs on this 3D test? http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1291751

This is what I was thinking................

Here are my settings that achieve the calibration results posted above. Caveat that settings at this level are tied to my specific screen, source and AVR. The brightness at Gray 100 IRE is 33.8 ftL / 115 cd/m2. Upping the backlight by one will increase ftL to 38 or so, which you may prefer.

PICTURE SETTINGS

Picture Mode: Movie
Backlight: 13
Contrast: 79
Brightness: 56
Sharpness: 8
Color: 50
Tint (G/R): G50/R50
3D: not relevant here

Advanced Settings:
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Black Tone: Off
Flesh Tone: 0
RGB Only Mode: Off

Color Space: Custom
Red: 48,0,0
Green: 0,50,8
Blue: 0, 6, 45
Yellow: 55, 48, 7
Cyan: 0, 53, 55
Magenta: 44, 7, 44

White Balance:
R-Offset: 21
G-Offset: 25
R-Offset: 30
R-Gain: 24
G-Gain: 25
B-Gain: 11

10p White Balance: On
Settings below shown as [Interval: R, G, B]
1: +3, 0, -5
2: +4, +2, 0
3: +2, +2, +2
4: +2, +1, +1
5: +2, 0, -1
6: +3, 0, 0
7: +2, 0, -2
8: +2, 0, -1
9: 0, 0, -1
10: -2, -1, -1

Gamma: 0
Expert Pattern Off:
xvYCC: On
Black Enhancer: Off

PICTURE OPTIONS
Color tone: Warm2
Digital Noise Filter: Auto
MPEG Noise Filter: Auto
HDMI Black Level: Normal
Film Mode: Off
Motion Plus; Off
LED Motion Plus: Off

I like my tv on the bright side and I have the back light at 12. It's all relative thanks for posting. It's a good starting point at the least