or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 308

post #9211 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisjmccord View Post

Do you have a link to Turbo and Nitra's settings so I can try them out and compare to yours?

hello Chris
I think my post was nr 8007.

take care
post #9212 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by sony1717 View Post

Longtime Sony owner and forum member, now a Samsung UN65ES8000 owner.
Need some advice / help please:
Purchased the UN65ES8000 from Amazon in Oct. With holidays, etc. hadn't had time to do a screen test until now (I know, I never should have done this...)
When watching the set, I really like the picture.
BUT, when I did a screen test I identified a stuck pixel (stuck on Green) on the left side of the screen when viewing an entirely black screen (which now of course I see all the time). Don't think I've identified any dead pixels.
So, questions please:
Is there any way to resolve the stuck pixel?
What is Samsung's policy on this? (what is their acceptable # of stuck pixels?)
Worth attempting to get a replacement, or am I asking for more trouble than just one stuck pixel with a replacement?
Does Samsung replace just the panel or the whole TV?
I assume that Amazon is out of the equation at this point since I am past 30 days - correct?
I apologize in advance if this has been asked and answered within the thread (I did search). I really appreciate any expert guidance you all may have.
Happy New Year.
Thanks.

A pixel flipper should be your first fix attempt, such as can be found on the Disney World of Wonder blu ray calibration disc.
post #9213 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

hello Bolt, Rick, (and others),
I know that the professional calibrators say that you should not take over another person's calibrated settings. But having the inquisitive engineering mind, I like to see proof in numbers, and I have never seen data to show how big the error can be on different sets with one setting.
I am asking myself: assume a set with out of the box setting has an error of 10, and a calibrated set has an error of 1, how individual is that calibrated setting? If someone else uses that calibrated setting on his set, sure his error would not become 1. But does his error go down to 5 or increase to 20? If 5 is achieved, then this is a benefit to all who do not want to spend money on calibration equipment or service. If the error becomes 20, then of course you should not use someone elses setting. That said, 10p white balance should only make minor correction on the ES8000 and it is not worth to take that setting from somebody else.
It would be nice to have more data, but unfortunately there are very few calibration reports on the ES8000 thread. I made my meter available to forum members, and I hope that we will have comparable ways for doing the calibration so that in the end we can see if there is a pattern in the calibrated settings. But this will take some time to find out.
However, since you and I have calibration equipment, why don't we each make a fresh calibration. Then I would use your settings and see how much error I get. And you could check your error with my settings.
And we both measure the error with out of the box settings (with special modes off) as well. Then we could see if taking another person's setting makes things worse or better, compared to out of the box. At least in our case.
Are you interested in doing that experiment?

Sounds fair.
post #9214 of 16125
Hey guys,

I have question about a spot on my UN55ES7500. While i do not notice it when viewing the tv from my normal viewing position(s), i do notice it when i have my face 2 inches from the TV. While its not a problem that would bother me just want to know what it is.

The thing is a bright green spot on the screen, it looks like its in between the pixels? Here are some pics on what i am talking about.

Black screen:



White Screen (spot circled in red):



Extreme close-up of last pic:





Thank you and Happy New Year!
post #9215 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by sony1717 View Post

Longtime Sony owner and forum member, now a Samsung UN65ES8000 owner.
Need some advice / help please:
Purchased the UN65ES8000 from Amazon in Oct. With holidays, etc. hadn't had time to do a screen test until now (I know, I never should have done this...)
When watching the set, I really like the picture.
BUT, when I did a screen test I identified a stuck pixel (stuck on Green) on the left side of the screen when viewing an entirely black screen (which now of course I see all the time). Don't think I've identified any dead pixels.
So, questions please:
Is there any way to resolve the stuck pixel?
What is Samsung's policy on this? (what is their acceptable # of stuck pixels?)
Worth attempting to get a replacement, or am I asking for more trouble than just one stuck pixel with a replacement?
Does Samsung replace just the panel or the whole TV?
I assume that Amazon is out of the equation at this point since I am past 30 days - correct?
I apologize in advance if this has been asked and answered within the thread (I did search). I really appreciate any expert guidance you all may have.
Happy New Year.
Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolt45 View Post

Hey guys,
I have question about a spot on my UN55ES7500. While i do not notice it when viewing the tv from my normal viewing position(s), i do notice it when i have my face 2 inches from the TV. While its not a problem that would bother me just want to know what it is.
The thing is a bright green spot on the screen, it looks like its in between the pixels? Here are some pics on what i am talking about.
Black screen:

White Screen (spot circled in red):

Extreme close-up of last pic:

Thank you and Happy New Year!

Hi, just use Pixel Jogger for 24hrs on repeat play straight, I fixed a red stuck pixel on my 8yrs old Sharp LC-26GA3E with this.
While playing pixel jogger, you can try tapping/massaging the stuck pixel a few times, to get the fluid unstuck. (search on youtube stuck pixel to see how to do this).
If after 24hrs doesn't fix it, at least the overall PQ has improved.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1406663/pixel-jogger-break-in-improves-pq-plasma-lcd-led-tv-the-only-way-for-diy-users-only
post #9216 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

hello Bolt, Rick, (and others),
I know that the professional calibrators say that you should not take over another person's calibrated settings. But having the inquisitive engineering mind, I like to see proof in numbers, and I have never seen data to show how big the error can be on different sets with one setting.
I am asking myself: assume a set with out of the box setting has an error of 10, and a calibrated set has an error of 1, how individual is that calibrated setting? If someone else uses that calibrated setting on his set, sure his error would not become 1. But does his error go down to 5 or increase to 20? If 5 is achieved, then this is a benefit to all who do not want to spend money on calibration equipment or service. If the error becomes 20, then of course you should not use someone elses setting. That said, 10p white balance should only make minor correction on the ES8000 and it is not worth to take that setting from somebody else.
It would be nice to have more data, but unfortunately there are very few calibration reports on the ES8000 thread. I made my meter available to forum members, and I hope that we will have comparable ways for doing the calibration so that in the end we can see if there is a pattern in the calibrated settings. But this will take some time to find out.
However, since you and I have calibration equipment, why don't we each make a fresh calibration. Then I would use your settings and see how much error I get. And you could check your error with my settings.
And we both measure the error with out of the box settings (with special modes off) as well. Then we could see if taking another person's setting makes things worse or better, compared to out of the box. At least in our case.
Are you interested in doing that experiment?

Good Idea, but dont really feel like messing with my setup at this time. With CES coming up, I'm pretty tied up from doing any calibration's at this time. Very busy time for work the next few weeks. Maybe when things start to slow down. I really don't think we need to prove to anyone this. It's common sense. I've calibrated many sets that use other peoples settings and got their TV's looking much much better. So much better they were completely blown away by the results. I stand by everything I said, that is using someone else s settings is far from what a actual calibration can accomplish, Especially putting someone Else's 10p White balance in, Completely pointless and in most cases can make the image look worse. It's funny when I hear people say I used so and so's settings and it looks GREAT! the issue with that is, is that they never saw a actual calibrated set. That's why I say people will be surprised at the results from a proper calibrated set compared to what they "thought" looked good. All I am trying to say is that nothing beats a actual calibration and sometimes using other peoples calibration can make the image worse, Especially when messing with 10p white balance which requires a meter to get right.
Edited by Bolt989 - 1/2/13 at 5:52am
post #9217 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

hello Bolt, Rick, (and others),
I know that the professional calibrators say that you should not take over another person's calibrated settings. But having the inquisitive engineering mind, I like to see proof in numbers, and I have never seen data to show how big the error can be on different sets with one setting.
I am asking myself: assume a set with out of the box setting has an error of 10, and a calibrated set has an error of 1, how individual is that calibrated setting? If someone else uses that calibrated setting on his set, sure his error would not become 1. But does his error go down to 5 or increase to 20? If 5 is achieved, then this is a benefit to all who do not want to spend money on calibration equipment or service. If the error becomes 20, then of course you should not use someone elses setting. That said, 10p white balance should only make minor correction on the ES8000 and it is not worth to take that setting from somebody else.
It would be nice to have more data, but unfortunately there are very few calibration reports on the ES8000 thread. I made my meter available to forum members, and I hope that we will have comparable ways for doing the calibration so that in the end we can see if there is a pattern in the calibrated settings. But this will take some time to find out.
However, since you and I have calibration equipment, why don't we each make a fresh calibration. Then I would use your settings and see how much error I get. And you could check your error with my settings.
And we both measure the error with out of the box settings (with special modes off) as well. Then we could see if taking another person's setting makes things worse or better, compared to out of the box. At least in our case.
Are you interested in doing that experiment?

+1, From my limited experience this is solid logic.

I had 3 different panels on a Samsung A850 only 1 panel of the 3 with the exact same setting look slightly different.

I had 4 different panels on a Samsung D6900 every panel looked identical with the exact same settings.

I don't believe Samsung or any other HDTV company would vary their hardware/software that greatly from set to set.

So what other than slight panel variations would cause settings in interchangable parts HDTVs to not be extremely similar ?
post #9218 of 16125
I've got a new problem. I use a Yamaha AVR. My STB, BD player, and Apple TV are connected to it via HDMI, and the AVR to the Sammy via a single
HDMI to #2. That connection make the TV volume control useless, it does nothing, no sound from it. All the sound's via the AVR and my speakers. So today I turn the thing on and there's no sound from the AVR connections, it all if from the Sammy. This literally happened overnight. How can that happen?
post #9219 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolt989 View Post

Good Idea, but dont really feel like messing with my setup at this time. With CES coming up, I'm pretty tied up from doing any calibration's at this time. Very busy time for work the next few weeks. Maybe when things start to slow down. I really don't think we need to prove to anyone this. It's common sense. I've calibrated many sets that use other peoples settings and got their TV's looking much much better. So much better they were completely blown away by the results. I stand by everything I said, that is using someone else s settings is far from what a actual calibration can accomplish, Especially putting someone Else's 10p White balance in, Completely pointless and in most cases can make the image look worse. It's funny when I hear people say I used so and so's settings and it looks GREAT! the issue with that is, is that they never saw a actual calibrated set. That's why I say people will be surprised at the results from a proper calibrated set compared to what they "thought" looked good. All I am trying to say is that nothing beats a actual calibration and sometimes using other peoples calibration can make the image worse, Especially when messing with 10p white balance which requires a meter to get right.

I don't think anyone is disagreeing with you about that. The problem is that most people don't want to spend that much money to have a professional calibration done. The options then turn to doing your own using the AVS files or something like the Disney WoW disk, or playing with other peoples settings and trying to find something that looks good to them. Is that going to give them the best possible picture compared to a professional calibration? No. Will it look much better than the blown out default settings? Yes. So why is it a bad thing to use other peoples settings, which can look better than default settings, if you don't want to pay for pro calibration? I think that what people are not agreeing with you about.
post #9220 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebignewt View Post

I've got a new problem. I use a Yamaha AVR. My STB, BD player, and Apple TV are connected to it via HDMI, and the AVR to the Sammy via a single
HDMI to #2. That connection make the TV volume control useless, it does nothing, no sound from it. All the sound's via the AVR and my speakers. So today I turn the thing on and there's no sound from the AVR connections, it all if from the Sammy. This literally happened overnight. How can that happen?

It sounds like you're referring to the ARC feature of the TV, which I'm assuming your AVR also has. You should probably make sure that the AVR is still "On" in your Anynet menu/settings. I don't know why it reverts to "Off" when powering on the TV, but it does that on mine too. It's annoying, but turning it "On" again quickly fixes the problem. That's assuming you're only talking about the audio from the TV (Smart Hub and other TV related audio) and not other sources that are connected to the AVR. If that's the problem, then the AVR isn't playing the audio like it should and you'll need to check the settings on the AVR to find out why not.
post #9221 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by disturbedenergy View Post

Took delivery of my UN65ES800 and thought I'd post my weekend's work. One last wire to hide - just need to get the extension cord through the wall and I'll be set. First impressions.... LOVE IT! For historical purposes, I just missed out on the UN55B8500 when I was ready to pull the trigger. Ended up with a C Series and wasn't pleased. Then went to the D8000 and *really* wasn't pleased - ended up returning it and went to the 65" VT25 just to give Plasma a chance but realized I'm just not a Plasma guy. Finally placed my order on the 65ES8000 from Best Buy last week and was delivered Saturday. Mounted with a Sanus VLT15 Running it alongside 3 Mythos XTR-50's and 2 Gems and an older, trusty Infinity HPS 1000 subwoofer powered by an SC-37 kept safe by a Panamax m5300 and directed by Harmony 900. Admittedly, was starting to lose faith in Samsung, but am VERY pleased with the 65" and have no intentions of making any other moves. In terms of the feature set, the 3D is nice - but am not a big 3D fan, but I suppose it will be fun as a toybox feature. I have no plans on using the motion or voice control - but at least now - neither are very impressive - but didn't exactly buy it for those features anyhow. I'm using the CNET settings for now and will tweak from there.

Wow, I love the look of this setup, very clean. No matter how I try to keep my cables clean, its all still spaghetti back behind my entertainment center, how do you manage the cables with this look?
It appears from the photo that the AV cabinet is right up against the wall, is this true, if so where are the cables? What brand/model/make is that AV cabinet, its awesome.

I really need to get rid of my floor speakers and get some of these wall mounts like this.
Edited by chrisjmccord - 1/2/13 at 9:18am
post #9222 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

It sounds like you're referring to the ARC feature of the TV, which I'm assuming your AVR also has. You should probably make sure that the AVR is still "On" in your Anynet menu/settings. I don't know why it reverts to "Off" when powering on the TV, but it does that on mine too. It's annoying, but turning it "On" again quickly fixes the problem. That's assuming you're only talking about the audio from the TV (Smart Hub and other TV related audio) and not other sources that are connected to the AVR. If that's the problem, then the AVR isn't playing the audio like it should and you'll need to check the settings on the AVR to find out why not.
Thanks. I do have the AVR connected to the ARC feature of the TV (HDMI 2). The first time I noticed it was this morning after inserting/playing a DVD in my Samsung BD player. The Anynet screen does come up when I use it. So you're saying the Anynet munu is within that screen, or can I access it from the Menu section on the TV?
post #9223 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

It sounds like you're referring to the ARC feature of the TV, which I'm assuming your AVR also has. You should probably make sure that the AVR is still "On" in your Anynet menu/settings. I don't know why it reverts to "Off" when powering on the TV, but it does that on mine too. It's annoying, but turning it "On" again quickly fixes the problem. That's assuming you're only talking about the audio from the TV (Smart Hub and other TV related audio) and not other sources that are connected to the AVR. If that's the problem, then the AVR isn't playing the audio like it should and you'll need to check the settings on the AVR to find out why not.

Do you know if a Denon AVR-2309CI has the ARC feature? I have my system doing the HDMI switching via my AVR as well, and the one HDMI out is going to my ES8000's HDMI 2 (ARC) input. Is there something I need to do in the TV settings or does it automatically send the audio back to the AVR, and vice versa with the AVR is there a setting to turn it on? My AVR is a few years old, so maybe due to the new technology of the Smart Hub stuff and needing of ARC maybe my AVR doesn't handle it either?
post #9224 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

I don't think anyone is disagreeing with you about that. The problem is that most people don't want to spend that much money to have a professional calibration done. The options then turn to doing your own using the AVS files or something like the Disney WoW disk, or playing with other peoples settings and trying to find something that looks good to them. Is that going to give them the best possible picture compared to a professional calibration? No. Will it look much better than the blown out default settings? Yes. So why is it a bad thing to use other peoples settings, which can look better than default settings, if you don't want to pay for pro calibration? I think that what people are not agreeing with you about.

Never said it was a bad thing, Just said for accuracy its not good and that a real calibration is a much better route for people that want that spot on accurate image. Like I have said before, "Movie Theater" accuracy. Share all the settings you want, but know your TV can do much better with a actual pro calibration. It may be worth it for some folks to dive into a pro calibration, they will be surprised how much better it looks than using someone Else's calibrated settings.

To me putting someone elses settings in is silly. That may be because I calibrate my own sets and I go for accuracy. I've seen sets that use "other" calibrated settings, from CNET, to forum members etc. I come in and can always make their TV look better 10 fold. They are always shocked at the results to. IF you want to share settings, nothing wrong with that. the whole point of my post was to inform users that it can get much better from a pro calibration. If the user is fine spending 2K on a TV an not getting the most out of it picture wise, thats fine with me.

With that said, it is fact that using someone else s 10P white balance can make the picture look worse (for accuracy). Look it up. Without a meter, I wouldn't mess with 10P white balance.
Edited by Bolt989 - 1/2/13 at 9:23am
post #9225 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisjmccord View Post

Do you know if a Denon AVR-2309CI has the ARC feature? I have my system doing the HDMI switching via my AVR as well, and the one HDMI out is going to my ES8000's HDMI 2 (ARC) input. Is there something I need to do in the TV settings or does it automatically send the audio back to the AVR, and vice versa with the AVR is there a setting to turn it on? My AVR is a few years old, so maybe due to the new technology of the Smart Hub stuff and needing of ARC maybe my AVR doesn't handle it either?

Your AVR does not support ARC, so you won't be able to send the TVs audio back to the AVR for audio to be output through your sound system. It's basically for the audio the TV produces through the Smart Hub that you're missing. To do this you would need to connect the TVs optical out to the AVR and get the sound that way. Otherwise you'd need to get an AVR that is ARC capable. Also, I don't think your AVR is HDMI 1.4, so you probably won't be able to view any 3D content from sources going through the AVR.
post #9226 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebignewt View Post

Thanks. I do have the AVR connected to the ARC feature of the TV (HDMI 2). The first time I noticed it was this morning after inserting/playing a DVD in my Samsung BD player. The Anynet screen does come up when I use it. So you're saying the Anynet munu is within that screen, or can I access it from the Menu section on the TV?

You need to get to it through the TV menu. You'll find it here:

Menu-> System-> Anynet+

That needs to be turned "On" on the TV and the AVR. If it's "On" in both places you should see a "Receiver" setting in the menu I pointed to above. That "Receiver" setting on the TV needs to be "On" as well. If all is set up correctly you will get all your TV audio (Smart Hub and those things) going through the AVR and not the TV speakers. I don't know what receiver you have, so you'll need to read the manual for the AVR to find out how to enable ARC so this all works.
post #9227 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolt989 View Post

Never said it was a bad thing, Just said for accuracy its not good and that a real calibration is a much better route for people that want that spot on accurate image. Like I have said before, "Movie Theater" accuracy. Share all the settings you want, but know your TV can do much better with a actual pro calibration. It may be worth it for some folks to dive into a pro calibration, they will be surprised how much better it looks than using someone Else's calibrated settings.
To me putting someone elses settings in is silly. That may be because I calibrate my own sets and I go for accuracy. I've seen sets that use "other" calibrated settings, from CNET, to forum members etc. I come in and can always make their TV look better 10 fold. They are always shocked at the results to. IF you want to share settings, nothing wrong with that. the whole point of my post was to inform users that it can get much better from a pro calibration. If the user is fine spending 2K on a TV an not getting the most out of it picture wise, thats fine with me.
With that said, it is fact that using someone else s 10P white balance can make the picture look worse (for accuracy). Look it up. Without a meter, I wouldn't mess with 10P white balance.

Actually you did:

"Using someone else's settings is silly and may even do more worse than good. Using someone else's calibrated settings is far from accurate.

Using someone else's 10p white balance is the worse. With that your really messing up the image..."


No one would argue that pro-calibration will give you the best results. If someone doesn't want to pay for a pro-calibration, there's nothing wrong with testing/using other peoples settings. If someone doesn't want to buy pro-calibration, they will get a much better picture using someone else's settings than using the default settings. That's all I'm saying, which is not what you stated. It doesn't have to be that we're all wrong and you're right. It doesn't have to be that you must pro-calibrate or don't do anything.
post #9228 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

Actually you did:
"Using someone else's settings is silly and may even do more worse than good. Using someone else's calibrated settings is far from accurate.
Using someone else's 10p white balance is the worse. With that your really messing up the image..."
No one would argue that pro-calibration will give you the best results. If someone doesn't want to pay for a pro-calibration, there's nothing wrong with testing/using other peoples settings. If someone doesn't want to buy pro-calibration, they will get a much better picture using someone else's settings than using the default settings. That's all I'm saying, which is not what you stated. It doesn't have to be that we're all wrong and you're right. It doesn't have to be that you must pro-calibrate or don't do anything.

Fair Enough.


How are you so certain that using someone elses settings is more accurate than using movie mode (most accurate out of the box mode)? Have you checked the error data in Calman? Or are you going by what you think looks more accurate? Just wondering.


Cheers!smile.gif
Edited by Bolt989 - 1/2/13 at 9:48am
post #9229 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolt989 View Post

Fair Enough.
How are you so certain that using someone elses settings is more accurate than using movie mode (most accurate out of the box mode)? Have you checked the error data in Calman? Or are you going by what you think looks more accurate?
Cheers!smile.gif

Movie mode was the best of the options out of the box, but the white/black levels were not accurate and neither were the color and tint (using AVS files and WoW). Even with those things set as accurate as they could be using those tools, the red push was way too high. Without having a meter (not yet anyway) I had to test with other peoples settings. I settled on Turbos settings which totally calmed down that red push and my picture has never looked better. Actually all of the settings I tested (Garnoch's, Nitra's, etc...) did a good job of taming that red push, but Turbo's was better for my set.

I too am a perfectionist and plan on getting a meter to really dial this stuff in. Will that give me a better picture than I have now? I'm assuming so or I wouldn't spend the $$$ on a meter. That's a given. That does not mean that I wasn't able to get a much improved picture using others settings until I can get this meter. And if for some reason I decide to not get the meter, I'm totally happy with my PQ that I have now.
post #9230 of 16125
I wouldn't know how to get my set calibrated where I live. I don't think 95% of people ever change any setting on the TV but the volume, I know I never did before I got on this forum. But if the TVs are very similar in how they are made then one person's settings should improve things. It's not quite like EQ settings on an audio source where people's ears vary considerably. The eyes to vary, but not nearly as much as hearing.
post #9231 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

Movie mode was the best of the options out of the box, but the white/black levels were not accurate and neither were the color and tint (using AVS files and WoW). Even with those things set as accurate as they could be using those tools, the red push was way too high. Without having a meter (not yet anyway) I had to test with other peoples settings. I settled on Turbos settings which totally calmed down that red push and my picture has never looked better. Actually all of the settings I tested (Garnoch's, Nitra's, etc...) did a good job of taming that red push, but Turbo's was better for my set.
I too am a perfectionist and plan on getting a meter to really dial this stuff in. Will that give me a better picture than I have now? I'm assuming so or I wouldn't spend the $$$ on a meter. That's a given. That does not mean that I wasn't able to get a much improved picture using others settings until I can get this meter. And if for some reason I decide to not get the meter, I'm totally happy with my PQ that I have now.

Nice. Glad your happy with the picture you have now. You should be able to dial it in even better with a meter.
post #9232 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolt45 View Post

Hey guys,
I have question about a spot on my UN55ES7500. While i do not notice it when viewing the tv from my normal viewing position(s), i do notice it when i have my face 2 inches from the TV. While its not a problem that would bother me just want to know what it is.
The thing is a bright green spot on the screen, it looks like its in between the pixels? Here are some pics on what i am talking about.
Black screen:

White Screen (spot circled in red):

Extreme close-up of last pic:

Thank you and Happy New Year!

I agree with you, that doesn't look like a stuck pixel. It looks like a manufacturing defect. I'd return it.
post #9233 of 16125
Cool..... The "Evolution Upgrade Kit" for our TV will be showcased this January 8th at the 2013 CES. I'm looking forward to knowing more about the features, and especially the cost for the upgrade kit;

http://thenextweb.com/asia/2013/01/02/samsung-unveils-its-future-proofing-evolution-kit-to-bring-new-features-to-its-2012-smart-tvs/
post #9234 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

I agree with you, that doesn't look like a stuck pixel. It looks like a manufacturing defect. I'd return it.

This is odd. It's definitely a stuck pixel. It's green and in the line of green pixels on the panel and it has the same tilt that all the other pixels have. What's odd is that it's in the row where there shouldn't be pixels. I wonder if these panels actually have twice the number of pixels, but are only utilizing every other row of pixels? Very strange and if that's that case, then using a pixel flipper won't help because those rows of pixels aren't being used and the pixel flipper won't actually be doing anything for that pixel.
post #9235 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by badabing View Post

Cool..... The "Evolution Upgrade Kit" for our TV will be showcased this January 8th at the 2013 CES. I'm looking forward to knowing more about the features, and especially the cost for the upgrade kit;
http://thenextweb.com/asia/2013/01/02/samsung-unveils-its-future-proofing-evolution-kit-to-bring-new-features-to-its-2012-smart-tvs/

Nice find! According to that the new Smart Hub interface will not be a simple firmware or download update for our current TVs and will require the evo kit to get the new interface. The evo kit will need to do much more than that for me to get it, so I'm curious to hear what else it does and what it will cost.
post #9236 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

Nice find! According to that the new Smart Hub interface will not be a simple firmware or download update for our current TVs and will require the evo kit to get the new interface. The evo kit will need to do much more than that for me to get it, so I'm curious to hear what else it does and what it will cost.

I think It's all marketing fluff IMO. It's what Samsung is good at. The Evo kit idea is a complete joke IMHO. Kind of like their ES9000 for 10 grand. ( a 75 inch D8000)
Edited by Bolt989 - 1/2/13 at 11:25am
post #9237 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by badabing View Post

Cool..... The "Evolution Upgrade Kit" for our TV will be showcased this January 8th at the 2013 CES. I'm looking forward to knowing more about the features, and especially the cost for the upgrade kit;
http://thenextweb.com/asia/2013/01/02/samsung-unveils-its-future-proofing-evolution-kit-to-bring-new-features-to-its-2012-smart-tvs/

same here, cant find any concrete specs online, they done a pretty good job on keeping it hush hush till its unvailling at CES 2013.
post #9238 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

Your AVR does not support ARC, so you won't be able to send the TVs audio back to the AVR for audio to be output through your sound system. It's basically for the audio the TV produces through the Smart Hub that you're missing. To do this you would need to connect the TVs optical out to the AVR and get the sound that way. Otherwise you'd need to get an AVR that is ARC capable. Also, I don't think your AVR is HDMI 1.4, so you probably won't be able to view any 3D content from sources going through the AVR.

Great! Thanks, you've just confirmed and justified my recent purchase and upgrade ala downgrade to a Denon AVR 1913!!
I upgraded to newer technology but downgraded in class with the 2309CI vs. 1913. I didn't see a need for a 2113 or 2313 or higher, again.
I like that Denon has simplified their AVRs for the recent and all digital movement, so the 1913 should be plenty good for me.

And now I have 2 solid reasons and justifications for the upgrade, to explain to my wife the extra money spent along with the Samsun LED TV! smile.gif
post #9239 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

I agree with you, that doesn't look like a stuck pixel. It looks like a manufacturing defect. I'd return it.

I wonder if this has to do with an interlaced picture source or possibly 720 vs. 1080. I just checked my TV and I don't have what appears to be a missing row, or unused row of pixels. My AVR is up-converting everything to 1080P though. So, I wonder if it's simply a stuck pixel in the row of pixels that would be used with a progressive or 1080 picture source. If that's the case, then the pixel flipper could fix it as long as the tool is using 1080P, which the bluray disc would be using.
Edited by Jestered - 1/2/13 at 10:56am
post #9240 of 16125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

Nice find! According to that the new Smart Hub interface will not be a simple firmware or download update for our current TVs and will require the evo kit to get the new interface. The evo kit will need to do much more than that for me to get it, so I'm curious to hear what else it does and what it will cost.

I hope this upgrade will raise micro dimming to a higher level. I still see the limitations of this function and earlier spoked about unrealistic dimming as show in this picture:



I also found this article which is stating that micro dimming is not worth it and is creating a halo effect on the image:

http://www.rtings.com/info/what-is-local-dimming

I hope this can be bettered somehow, but I'm afraid that this is just the unresolvable limitation of this technology.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: LCD Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread