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Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 333

post #9961 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Needis View Post

My smart hub still not working. Why is it so bad to expect something to work as advertised...I don't even want to start on the Voice and gesture controls.

Have you done a Reinstall? Open Smart hub --> Click on Tools --> Click on Reinstall.
post #9962 of 16126
It's been installing for last 20 mins. How long should it take?
post #9963 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

I'm actually going to take back and pick up a replacement tonight at a local BB and lay it flat in the back of my wifes SUV eventhough its not recommended. The 65 was too big to try this with, but the 60 should fit fine with lots of moving blankets placed beneath it and around it. At this point, what do I have to lose, since having it delivered 4 times had three dead pixels out of the box anyways.

How did it work out last night with the replacement you picked up?
post #9964 of 16126
Hey guys - need help please - going nuts with stuck / dead pixels:


I posted a few weeks ago regarding my UN65ES8000 that had a stuck green pixel. It looked a lot like what was posted by Jolt45 here that other members thought was a manufacturing defect as it appeared between pixels as opposed to a stuck pixel...

Anyhow, Amazon.com was good enough to take it back and I got a replacement set yesterday.

To my dismay this one has a couple of dead pixels and/or sub-pixels (description and pictures below). No stuck pixels that I can tell.

I am asking for the groups' help to assess:

1) Is it normal for a Samsung UN65ES8000 to have dead pixels?
2) How many should I be willing to accept?
3) Should I keep returning the set? And if so what are the chances I will actually get one without dead or stuck pixels?


I am getting the following results by running a pixel test filling the screen with R/G/B black, white and then gray scales.

- On RED there appears to be a dead pixel on the right edge of the screen (note: this does not show up during the other color tests).

- On BLUE there appears to be a dead pixel on the top right edge of the screen (note: this one is significantly larger than the one on the right edge, it doesn't appear dead under the other color tests, but on a WHITE screen it looks discolored - yellowish).

NOTE: When watching a normal picture (moving TV), it is very hard to see / tell the dead pixel which I thought would be in an "off" condition all the time regardless of what was going on in the picture.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much!



post #9965 of 16126
Hmmm, I think this comes down to personal preference and if you can really notice it during normal viewing. Also, being you have a 65", how happy are you with nay banding that you see or uniformity. I know returning it is a pain, but honestly being Amazon is so good with that, I wouldn't keep it with 3 dead pixels if I were still in the return window.

As for your question about how normal it is. Through out this entire thread, it's been rare to hear of many pixels issues - until recently. Cmay specifically has had a lot of issues - not just with Samsung though.

Let us know what happens and good luck.
post #9966 of 16126
Garnoch - just the person I was hoping to reply (based on your frequency of posting and expertise I see here) - so I appreciate the advice.

I just contacted Samsung who said that for the 65" set it should not have these issues. Of course going through them, they recommend a service call which would of course end up being a replacement panel which I don't think I want to go through and end up with a refurb set.

I think the worst thing I ever did was to use a pixel tester. At my viewing distance (approx 9-10 ft) it is very difficult to see when watching a moving picture (except for the yellowish blob on light/white scenes). BUT, I know it is there and I know that I paid almost $4k for this TV so it is hard to swallow.

The one that shows up on the RED test is smaller and probably would not be a big deal because it is off to the very right edge of the screen, but the one that shows up during the BLUE test is significantly larger (could this be multiple pixels??) and more towards the top- right/center of the screen. (PS - anyone know why the dead ones only show up during certain color tests and not all colors? I thought if a pixel was dead, it was dead for all of the colors? True?)

I think I will be sending it back again.

Question for Amazon purchasers (or those with knowledge): Is there a limit on how many of these TVs Amazon will take back? This may be #3 for me. I don't want to end up with one that is even worse just to have them tell me "sorry 3 is the limit on exchanges."
post #9967 of 16126
I just got the ES8000 last night! I had to transport it lying down in my RAV4 though the screen was facing up. I got it home and noticed a great deal of flash lighting coming from the corners. It's very apparent in movie mode but not so much in standard though I can still notice it. Is this something that will go away if I massage the TV? Is it worth it to try and exchange it for a another TV or is it going to mostly have the same issues? Is there a movie that most people use to test for clouding/flash lighting to see if it's bothersome during actual movie viewing?

Does anyone have any calbration settings for HDMI 1 when re-named to PC? I have my computer hooked up to it and I've re-named the input to PC but I just can't seem to adjust the settings to make it look half-decent. I was hoping someone else could share theirs. I use this PC for gaming on the TV.
post #9968 of 16126
Never settle with a dead pixel.
post #9969 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolt989 View Post

Never settle with a dead pixel.

I'll second that. smile.gif
post #9970 of 16126
I just pretend well. smile.gif I've not heard of a limit on returns from Amazon so being you're in that window still, I'd return it too like I said. Though if it were only one dead pixel and I had a 65" with practically no banding, then I'd be considering all my options. They are great about it and they should just come in with the new one and swap it out. If the pixel was truly dead, then yes it should be always dead, but like you said in your post, you may be dealing with sub pixels. That's my guess after reading your post anyway. Good luck, man!
post #9971 of 16126
Thanks for the advice to not settle with dead pixels on this set. Appreciate the almost immediate feedback.

UPDATE: I decided not to settle with the dead pixels and I called Amazon.com - they are sending me another set - this one will be #3 - for arrival on Thursday/Fri.

I talked to the Amazon.com rep in their "Large Items" department (don't know if that refers to the size of the item, price or both). He said that there is no limit to the number of times a TV can be returned if it has a defect. He did mention that the returns had to be completed within the 31 day return window, but then in the same breath said that Amazon would work with me to ensure that I am satisfied (not sure exactly what policy that is, but it sounds good). So I imagine that if this next one doesn't work out, I still have time for 2 more within the 31 days. I don't think I would ever get this type of service from a big box brick and mortar retailer.

Please keep your fingers crossed for me that this one will be it and not worse than what I have now. My wife is getting tired of the boxing/unboxing process and waiting for me to plug everything in each time...

Cheers!
post #9972 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by MeelaPo View Post

I just got the ES8000 last night! I had to transport it lying down in my RAV4 though the screen was facing up. I got it home and noticed a great deal of flash lighting coming from the corners. It's very apparent in movie mode but not so much in standard though I can still notice it. Is this something that will go away if I massage the TV? Is it worth it to try and exchange it for a another TV or is it going to mostly have the same issues? Is there a movie that most people use to test for clouding/flash lighting to see if it's bothersome during actual movie viewing?

Does anyone have any calbration settings for HDMI 1 when re-named to PC? I have my computer hooked up to it and I've re-named the input to PC but I just can't seem to adjust the settings to make it look half-decent. I was hoping someone else could share theirs. I use this PC for gaming on the TV.

Congrats! It's been said in this thread that laying it down flat can make the flashlighting and clouding much more apparent, but it's also the reason I think it diminishes greatly over 3 weeks or so. If you were to try massaging, I would personally wait 3 weeks. Also, make sure your backlight isn't burning too brightly in a dim room. My guess is that after a few weeks and some tweaking of your settings, you won't have the need to return it. That's your call though so I'll leave it at that.

Someone can correct me on the PC connection but I believe by doing what you've done, you've turned off a lot of internal processing, hence not being able to tweak the picture as much. The more features you turn on etc, the more lag you will have. Some people use Game mode for this reason too and have less tweaking options as a result. I actually don't use Game mode or the way you're doing it but have extras turned off on that input. It reduces lag but perhaps not as much, but I'm just a casual gamer.
post #9973 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by sony1717 View Post

Thanks for the advice to not settle with dead pixels on this set. Appreciate the almost immediate feedback.

UPDATE: I decided not to settle with the dead pixels and I called Amazon.com - they are sending me another set - this one will be #3 - for arrival on Thursday/Fri.

I talked to the Amazon.com rep in their "Large Items" department (don't know if that refers to the size of the item, price or both). He said that there is no limit to the number of times a TV can be returned if it has a defect. He did mention that the returns had to be completed within the 31 day return window, but then in the same breath said that Amazon would work with me to ensure that I am satisfied (not sure exactly what policy that is, but it sounds good). So I imagine that if this next one doesn't work out, I still have time for 2 more within the 31 days. I don't think I would ever get this type of service from a big box brick and mortar retailer.

Please keep your fingers crossed for me that this one will be it and not worse than what I have now. My wife is getting tired of the boxing/unboxing process and waiting for me to plug everything in each time...

Cheers!

Great info right there, thanks! Funny though, in my head I always imagined you had 31 days for each TV, not from the initial purchase date. I'm not sure why I thought that. Good to know they would work with you though. Fingers crossed. smile.gif
post #9974 of 16126
Yes - that 31 day policy was a little unclear to me as well.

For the Amazon.com people here is what I learned:

1) On my first set I was actually outside of the 31 day window before I tested for pixels (which now I wish maybe I never had). I argued the holidays getting in the way, etc. Amazon.com said that for large items and TVs that they are a bit more lenient and gave me a one-time exception to the policy.

2) The replacement set #2 appears in my Amazon.com Orders as a new order with a new order date.

3) When I called Amazon.com and spoke to the "Large Items Dept' (as mentioned above) they used the date for set #2 to talk about the 31-day return window. They alluded to the fact that the window for additional returns was off of this set (#2 in my case).

4) However, when I looked at my Amazon.com Orders page, set #3 appears as another new order (all at $0 of course) with a new order date. So in summary, I don't know if it is 31 days in total, or from each order. Either way I am going to try to get this squared away within my 31 days from yesterday.

Thanks again for all of the great feedback.
post #9975 of 16126
It is 31 days from the new order date.
post #9976 of 16126
So picked up the replacement 60ES8000 last night. No dead pixels, minimal banding, minimal flashlighting..... however, the 3D on this display has an unusual amount of crosstalk on almost every shot compared to the 65ES8000 which had none whatsoever. Is the 3D inferior on the 60 or inferior on an HS01 panel compared to an HS02 panel? All of the 65s I had were MH02s. Is this yet another defective TV or am I missing something or need to adjust something?

Did some more testing..... problem seems to be that even though 3D is activated, and picture is in 3D, either the left or right side image is still prominently displayed creating a double image/massive crosstalk on any part of the image in the foreground or far background. Glasses are fine as they are the same ones I used for the 65ES8000, and using the same Bluray OPPO 103. Readjusted screen size in OPPO to suit the 60, but problem still exists. There is no way the 3D can be this bad on the 60, so I'm assuming there is something wrong with the set. Perhaps transporting it laying down face up broke something in the TV?
Edited by cmay91472 - 1/12/13 at 1:31pm
post #9977 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by sony1717 View Post

Hey guys - need help please - going nuts with stuck / dead pixels:


I posted a few weeks ago regarding my UN65ES8000 that had a stuck green pixel. It looked a lot like what was posted by Jolt45 here that other members thought was a manufacturing defect as it appeared between pixels as opposed to a stuck pixel...

Anyhow, Amazon.com was good enough to take it back and I got a replacement set yesterday.

To my dismay this one has a couple of dead pixels and/or sub-pixels (description and pictures below). No stuck pixels that I can tell.

I am asking for the groups' help to assess:

1) Is it normal for a Samsung UN65ES8000 to have dead pixels?
2) How many should I be willing to accept?
3) Should I keep returning the set? And if so what are the chances I will actually get one without dead or stuck pixels?


I am getting the following results by running a pixel test filling the screen with R/G/B black, white and then gray scales.

- On RED there appears to be a dead pixel on the right edge of the screen (note: this does not show up during the other color tests).

- On BLUE there appears to be a dead pixel on the top right edge of the screen (note: this one is significantly larger than the one on the right edge, it doesn't appear dead under the other color tests, but on a WHITE screen it looks discolored - yellowish).

NOTE: When watching a normal picture (moving TV), it is very hard to see / tell the dead pixel which I thought would be in an "off" condition all the time regardless of what was going on in the picture.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much!




3 out of 5 ES8000s I have had had dead pixels, as well as 2 out of 4 VT50s with dead pixels also. Don't worry, you are not alone.
post #9978 of 16126
I am embarking on calibrating my ES8000 with a meter and ChromaPure software. The first step is to appropriately set Backlight Brightness and Contrast. I am wondering if anyone else here has calibrated their 8000?

I intend on enabling the Eco Sensor function because I do not have very good control of the light.

What is the consensus on how to calibrate this set? Set Backlight at 20 and Eco Sensor at the low point that make sense in the darkest setting? If that is done at what Backlight would it make sense to calibrate the set? At 20? At the midpoint? At the estimated Backlight at which "most" viewing takes place?

Any ideas out there?
post #9979 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by henryoh View Post

I am embarking on calibrating my ES8000 with a meter and ChromaPure software. The first step is to appropriately set Backlight Brightness and Contrast. I am wondering if anyone else here has calibrated their 8000?

I intend on enabling the Eco Sensor function because I do not have very good control of the light.

What is the consensus on how to calibrate this set? Set Backlight at 20 and Eco Sensor at the low point that make sense in the darkest setting? If that is done at what Backlight would it make sense to calibrate the set? At 20? At the midpoint? At the estimated Backlight at which "most" viewing takes place?

Any ideas out there?

First things first - I'm not a calibrator. As for where to set the backlight, I would say where it looks good during your normal viewing. As for where to set it and Eco, that's really up to you, but you can check my Setting link in my signature to get an idea of how a lot of us using Eco are doing it more or less and you can check my Guide link for info on that as well under the Eco Sensor section. I'll point your there first, good luck.
post #9980 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

So picked up the replacement 60ES8000 last night. No dead pixels, minimal banding, minimal flashlighting..... however, the 3D on this display has an unusual amount of crosstalk on almost every shot compared to the 65ES8000 which had none whatsoever. Is the 3D inferior on the 60 or inferior on an HS01 panel compared to an HS02 panel? All of the 65s I had were MH02s. Is this yet another defective TV or am I missing something or need to adjust something?

Did some more testing..... problem seems to be that even though 3D is activated, and picture is in 3D, either the left or right side image is still prominently displayed creating a double image/massive crosstalk on any part of the image in the foreground or far background. Glasses are fine as they are the same ones I used for the 65ES8000, and using the same Bluray OPPO 103. Readjusted screen size in OPPO to suit the 60, but problem still exists. There is no way the 3D can be this bad on the 60, so I'm assuming there is something wrong with the set. Perhaps transporting it laying down face up broke something in the TV?

Whoa, that sounds crazy, Cmay. Glad you have no dead pixels, but this is your second 60" that has banding issues? That alone seems odd. The 3D though sounds like an issue. I have the HS01 panel on my 60" and 3D looks amazing, but I can't compared it to the others like you were able to do. Yours just doesn't sound right though. Your Picture Size is on Screen Fit, right? Sorry, man.
post #9981 of 16126
Banding happens on all edge lit sets regardless of what people here say. The people that say they have no banding at all either dont know what they are looking for or just being a fanboy. Its factual that all edge lit sets have banding to a certain degree. Dont let anyone else fool you. The 60" sets have banding as well, period. Cmay your more than welcome to keep exchanging sets to see for yourself. But keep us posted.

You just have to live and deal with it just like plasma owners have to deal with IR. If your looking for that perfect tv, your expectations are to high.
post #9982 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Whoa, that sounds crazy, Cmay. Glad you have no dead pixels, but this is your second 60" that has banding issues? That alone seems odd. The 3D though sounds like an issue. I have the HS01 panel on my 60" and 3D looks amazing, but I can't compared it to the others like you were able to do. Yours just doesn't sound right though. Your Picture Size is on Screen Fit, right? Sorry, man.

At first last night, I didn't think anything of it because the TV was not on the stand so I hooked up my old PS3 to test for banding and noticed there was ALOT of crosstalk on the Under the Sea 3D bluray. I just assumed that since it was an original 60G fat that it was the PS3 not performing well. But when I got it up on the stand today and hooked up the OPPO 103 and saw the same thing, with both the Panny glasses and Sammy glasses I knew something must be wrong. For instance, on MIB3, anytime there is a face closeup, you can clearly see the 3D image, but the L/R part of the stereoscopic image is still there in the background. Checked all the settings on both the Oppo and ES8000 and everything looks fine.... so making another trip to BB tonight for yet another exchange.

Do you notice any excessive crosstalk on yours on normal shots.... ie... not the extreme popouts, but just normal imagery like face closeups and backgrounds?

So four 65VT50's (two with dead pixels, one excessive buzzer, and one with a problem with the ARC coating), three 65ES8000s (two with dead pixels and one with banding although they probably all had the same issue), and two 60ES8000s (one with dead pixel, one with 3D issue). This is literally going to be the 10th panel in the past few months. Totally insane.
post #9983 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolt989 View Post

Banding happens on all edge lit sets regardless of what people here say. The people that say they have no banding at all either dont know what they are looking for or just being a fanboy. Its factual that all edge lit sets have banding to a certain degree. Dont let anyone else fool you. The 60" sets have banding as well, period. Cmay your more than welcome to keep exchanging sets to see for yourself. But keep us posted.

You just have to live and deal with it just like plasma owners have to deal with IR. If your looking for that perfect tv, your expectations are to high.

Or, if that's true, it's so slight that it can't easily be seen. I know what what banding is and just don't see it, and I'm very very far from a Samsung fanboy. I will admit though that I don't go looking for it too hard, because if it's there to be seen, the moment I see it, I will obsess over it. Very very true about no perfect TV. We all have to deal with certain imperfections based on the technology we decide to go with.
post #9984 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

At first last night, I didn't think anything of it because the TV was not on the stand so I hooked up my old PS3 to test for banding and noticed there was ALOT of crosstalk on the Under the Sea 3D bluray. I just assumed that since it was an original 60G fat that it was the PS3 not performing well. But when I got it up on the stand today and hooked up the OPPO 103 and saw the same thing, with both the Panny glasses and Sammy glasses I knew something must be wrong. For instance, on MIB3, anytime there is a face closeup, you can clearly see the 3D image, but the L/R part of the stereoscopic image is still there in the background. Checked all the settings on both the Oppo and ES8000 and everything looks fine.... so making another trip to BB tonight for yet another exchange.

Do you notice any excessive crosstalk on yours on normal shots.... ie... not the extreme popouts, but just normal imagery like face closeups and backgrounds?

So four 65VT50's (two with dead pixels, one excessive buzzer, and one with a problem with the ARC coating), three 65ES8000s (two with dead pixels and one with banding although they probably all had the same issue), and two 60ES8000s (one with dead pixel, one with 3D issue). This is literally going to be the 10th panel in the past few months. Totally insane.

Good luck.
I won't say I never see crosstalk because sometimes I do, but not what you're explaining.
post #9985 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Or, if that's true, it's so slight that it can't easily be seen. I know what what banding is and just don't see it, and I'm very very far from a Samsung fanboy. I will admit though that I don't go looking for it too hard, because if it's there to be seen, the moment I see it, I will obsess over it. Very very true about no perfect TV. We all have to deal with certain imperfections based on the technology we decide to go with.

I kind of agree that banding exists on all edge lit, but on the 60 it is so minor that majority don't notice or know its banding. On both 60s I noticed no banding in backgrounds or solid colors which is what plagues the 65, but did notice minor banding on extreme pans where it looks like motion jitter perhaps to some, but you can clearly see the bands in the same location regardless of which movie is playing which is exactly what my previous Sony LCD does on extreme pans.
post #9986 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolt989 View Post

Banding happens on all edge lit sets regardless of what people here say. The people that say they have no banding at all either dont know what they are looking for or just being a fanboy. Its factual that all edge lit sets have banding to a certain degree. Dont let anyone else fool you. The 60" sets have banding as well, period. Cmay your more than welcome to keep exchanging sets to see for yourself. But keep us posted.

You just have to live and deal with it just like plasma owners have to deal with IR. If your looking for that perfect tv, your expectations are to high.

Bolt, are you saying that every single edge lit set regardless of size, price, or manufacturer produced since the beginning of time has visible banding? You certainly have viewed many panels...
post #9987 of 16126
Cmay, at best buy when you exchange sts they need to treat it as a return. After so many returns you will get banned from anymore returns. Just a fyi. So be careful with.that and ask them about it.
post #9988 of 16126
cmay, Bolt's blanket statement on returns is untrue. Your limitation on returns will depend on where you live.
post #9989 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by henryoh View Post

cmay, Bolt's blanket statement on returns is untrue. Your limitation on returns will depend on where you live.

Agreed, and why i said ask about it. Dont want him to end up like another member here for that exact reason.
post #9990 of 16126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolt989 View Post

Agreed, and why i said ask about it. Dont want him to end up like another member here for that exact reason.

In that case your initial post needed to say "may" not "will"...
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