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Official LG XXLM7600 Owners Thread... - Page 64

post #1891 of 3924
Hello all. Long time, no post.

I recently received a 55LM7600 from Amazon when they were running their $1299 deal. It replaced my 12 year old Toshiba 50" HD rear projection. Well, I'm having second thoughts about keeping it. It seems to suffer from bleeding at the top. From what I have read, the LGs (and most other edge lit sets) suffer from this. My question is.. would you send this back and get another, live with it, or just get a plasma? I can see the bleeding in dark scenes and in and menus with gray on the top. Most shows look great.

The bleeding in the image below is slightly exaggerated due to the camera taking in a bit more light than it should.

bleeding

What do you think? Thanks.

EDIT: This is with the Cnet calibration settings. I received the set this morning.
post #1892 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by nerftoe View Post

Hello all. Long time, no post.
I recently received a 55LM7600 from Amazon when they were running their $1299 deal. It replaced my 12 year old Toshiba 50" HD rear projection. Well, I'm having second thoughts about keeping it. It seems to suffer from bleeding at the top. From what I have read, the LGs (and most other edge lit sets) suffer from this. My question is.. would you send this back and get another, live with it, or just get a plasma? I can see the bleeding in dark scenes and in and menus with gray on the top. Most shows look great.
The bleeding in the image below is slightly exaggerated due to the camera taking in a bit more light than it should.
bleeding
What do you think? Thanks.
Ridicolous.
post #1893 of 3924
I'd return it.
post #1894 of 3924
LG tech came over today to "fix" my TV. Looked at it and told my wife that he would have to replace the board in it. Of course the board had to be ordered even though LG told me on the phone last week that they were ordering the part. Now we have to wait till Monday to see if this can be remedied. What happens if they can't fix? Do they get you a new one or refund your money?
post #1895 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by tampa8 View Post

Did some other audio setting change perhaps that doesn't now see sub audio tracks? I would try going to the sound setting and toggle or change the settings especially the PCM/auto setting.

Last night I tried going through all the audio settings that I could find and toggled them, but no combination of changing/toggling the settings gave me audio language selection back. I really think this is just something they screwed up in the latest firmware (or some version between what I originally had on my TV and the latest version).
post #1896 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by pntherpaw86 View Post

Last night I tried going through all the audio settings that I could find and toggled them, but no combination of changing/toggling the settings gave me audio language selection back. I really think this is just something they screwed up in the latest firmware (or some version between what I originally had on my TV and the latest version).

Unfortunately it does seem so.
post #1897 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by tampa8 View Post

Unfortunately it does seem so.
Well, I just sent an email to LG Customer Support saying I think I found a bug relating to Audio Language selection and asking them to forward it to their engineering team. We'll just have to see what kind of response I get.
post #1898 of 3924
Picked up my 47 inch yesterday via Amazon price match at a nearby Best Buy. I have relatively minor bleed compared to many of the photos posted. Have not calibrated any settings beyong doing it by eye, but putting local dimming on high gets rids of the worst of my bleed in the uper left hand corner. Tv is currently doing the software update.

Trying to use the built in YouTube app froze the tv up & I had to turn it off to get it working again. I have a 20mbps fiber optic connection to which the tv wirelessly connected easily; is this typical? Do any of the other web apps function?

Also, I haven't checked out any of my digitized VHS files yet, but the relatively low res dvd rips look fine. Had to screw around with the setting for a while to make OTA look tolerable; everything initially looked like a cheap soap opera, no depth of field, badly and overlit, etc. but it all looks good now. And I like being able to lable the various HDMI ports for what they're connected to. And I'm finding the magic remote much easier to deal with than I'd feared; my LG vhs/dvd player/burner remote controls the basics (on/off, volume, channel, input) and Hippo Lite on my iPhone 4s covers all my needs in regard to the laptop functionality.
Edited by StCelery - 11/21/12 at 10:46pm
post #1899 of 3924
Hi,

I just picked up the 47LM7600 a day a few days ago and it looks really good.

Do you guys find that the apps load realy slow? Even pulling video and pics from my pc take a long time to load and youtube only run for line 3 seconds before it has to load more data.

Do you think stepping up to the dual core 8600 would make the apps run faster?

Thanks,
post #1900 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by StCelery View Post

Trying to use the built in YouTube app froze the tv up & I had to turn it off to get it working again. I have a 20mbps fiber optic connection to which the tv wirelessly connected easily; is this typical? Do any of the other web apps function?

This has been a problem for me as well. When you go to Settings => Network Connection => Expert setup (go through the setup manually), once it connects, how many bars do you get on the little antenna icon?

I was getting anywhere from 1 to 3 bars, but not solid on 3 bars. As an experiment I moved the router a bit closer to the TV and away from some metal objects that could have been interfering and all was good. Apps worked fine, no freezing on YouTube or 3D World vids. You can also get a relative network speed test within VuDu. I'm going to permanently move the router this weekend.
http://www.lg.com/us/support/product-help/CT10000004-CT10000018-1338926803325
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1399636/official-lg-xxlm7600-owners-thread/1860#post_22595060

Quote:
Also, I haven't checked out any of my digitized VHS files yet, but the relatively low res dvd rips look fine. Had to screw around with the setting for a while to make OTA look tolerable; everything initially looked like a cheap soap opera, no depth of field, badly and overlit, etc. but it all looks good now. And I like being able to lable the various HDMI ports for what they're connected to. And I'm finding the magic remote much easier to deal with than I'd feared; my LG vhs/dvd player/burner remote controls the basics (on/off, volume, channel, input) and Hippo Lite on my iPhone 4s covers all my needs in regard to the laptop functionality.

I was pleasantly surprised at how well the upconverter worked on lo-def material. I love the magic remote. I can't imagine going back to up arrow, right arrow, right arrow, down arrow, etc. to navigate a traditional TV menu. I changed the icon to a small cross-hair. Agree that labeling the inputs is a nice touch by LG.
Edited by powrwrap - 11/22/12 at 9:55am
post #1901 of 3924
I recently changed my settings quite a bit. I used to turn the backlight down (45 or so) and have the brightness up (around 60 or so). I thought this was helping the flashlighting because it reduced backlight levels and the high brightness would wash out the blacks, causing the flashlighting to blend in.

I now have my backlight at around 60 and my brightness at 57. I'm not sure about your sets, but my set shows a dramatic difference between brightness levels of 57 and 58. The same difference is not seen when going from 56>57 or 58>59. 57 seems to be a real sweet spot. I use brightness of 57, backlight of 60, and contrast around 85, and my flashlighting has been minimized in a way that I had not experienced before. I also have local dimming on low and black levels on low. The set looks fantastic.
post #1902 of 3924


Has anyone played around with the auto backlight adjuster / ambient light sensor much (found under energy saving)? Not the intelligent sensor picture mode, which adjusts quite a bit of stuff. I really enjoyed the ambient light sensor on an older Samsung TV of mine that I thought really nailed the backlight setting with minimal effort. That said, some of the settings for LG's flavor of it leave me scratching my head and I had some questions.

Sensing strength has me pretty confused. Any ideas on what effect this would have? I'll have to play around later when I get more time, but I'd love to hear any thoughts on it.

As for Minimum Luminance, this seems more straight forward, and I'm assuming this sets a "floor" or hard limit for how low the backlight can be set by the sensor. I wonder if this directly corresponds to the manual backlight setting. So if I didn't want the backlight being automatically adjusted below, say, 35, I'd set this to 35? Seems plausible.

Anyways, any thoughts would appreciated!
Edited by Tom4221 - 11/24/12 at 3:24am
post #1903 of 3924
The first setting sets the lowest you want the brightness even in the darkest of conditions. The second setting is how much you want it to vary from the first setting in increased brightness based on lighting conditions. (Exactly the description - makes a range of brightness)

These work with more control than the preset settings still available.
Edited by tampa8 - 11/24/12 at 7:27am
post #1904 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by pntherpaw86 View Post

Last night I tried going through all the audio settings that I could find and toggled them, but no combination of changing/toggling the settings gave me audio language selection back. I really think this is just something they screwed up in the latest firmware (or some version between what I originally had on my TV and the latest version).

Did you go to menu, settings, Option, language and try toggling that?
post #1905 of 3924
Do any of you use simplink with a ps3? I set it up and I'm able to turn the ps3 on with the tv remote, which is great. It doesn't seem to do anything but let you use the arrows to navigate the menu, though. I am able to turn the ps3 on and competently browse my attached hard drive, serviio media server, and netflix interface, as well as play/pause, etc. I can't seem to exit things ot turn the ps3 off, though. Being able to turn it on is very nice, though.
post #1906 of 3924
So I have something of a silly but frustrating question. I recently bought the 47 lm7600 from Amazon Warehouse as a "like new" item and all today it's been totally true to the description. It's a really great set.

The only problem is, though, that whoever had it previously decided to set the TV Lock to ON and set a password. I've been searching for awhile on a way to reset the password but can't seem to find one "0000" and "7777" do nothing.

Does anyone know how I could get around this or how to reset the TV and get rid of this annoying password? It has everything but TV-G blocked, and since I'm not a child that's more than a little troublesome.

Any help would be appreciated!

EDIT: And almost a few minutes later I find it. 0325 is the master. Thanks anyways!
Edited by crosstheatlantic - 11/24/12 at 2:03pm
post #1907 of 3924
Hey did anyone who has an nvidia card, play games in 3d using the zalman edid override to get interleaved 1080p?

Can someone post instructions?
post #1908 of 3924
What's the best method to stream a network connected hard drive to the TV?

I'm planning on selling my PS3 so that I can solely use the Smart TV functions for Netflix, but then I realized that the PS3 allowed me to also stream from networked drives and computers. Do I have that option with the TV?

Additionally, is it just me, or does the video quality on Netflix look much higher resolution when being played from the PS3 instead of the native app?

The only reprieve that the native TV Netflix app gets is that by keeping the input directly on the television, I don't lose the soap opera effect. When I change it to my PS3 input, the TV automatically switches to game mode (I'm assuming this is what is happening) and I get 60hz again. I specifically want to keep the higher hz.
post #1909 of 3924
Hi there, can anyone help me with this?... (I have also posted it in the AVR forum)

I am having problems managing to get my Amp to play sound from the TV via ARC.

I am using a Denon AVR-591 Amp and an LG LM7600 TV.
  • Both units support ARC.
  • The units are connected by an HDMI 1.4 ARC cable.
  • The cable is plugged into the correct slots labelled as ARC... on TV: HDMI IN 1 (ARC); on AMP: Output Monitor (ARC)
  • I have a Foxtel (Satellite) signal going into the Amp. When I select input: HDMI1 on the TV, and set the Amp to play Foxtel, the picture and sound both work. But when I play anything on the TV (eg- a movie via the TV’s USB input), I get no sound.

TV (LG LM7600) settings details are as follows:
  • TV Input set to USB. USB flash drive plugged in. If I select “TV speakers” on input screen, the sound works fine through the TV.
  • If I then select Simplink = ON and Sound = “External speakers”, I do not get any sound through the Amp speakers.
  • The TV gives me a message box saying “if you cannot hear sound, check the speaker volume or optical cable. If home theatre power is turned off, it may take a long time.”
  • Simplink = ON
  • ARC mode = ON
  • Digital sound out = Auto (not sure what PCM means – the only other choice)

Amplifier (Denon AVR-591) settings are as follows:
  • Input = TV
  • Input mode= -ARC
  • Decode mode= Auto
  • Input assign... TV shows as “-“. When I toggle down to TV, the “[ENT]:Select” option disappears. This might the biggest clue to my problem
  • HDMI audio out= AMP
  • HDMI control= ON
  • Other info from 2-3 HDMI signal info: [Rep=1080; Colourspace=4:4:4; pixel depth=8bits; Interface=HDMI 3D
  • When TV input is selected, the AMP displays "VIDEO ONLY TV"

The one thing I have not tried is buying an optical cable and using a different source. But I really don’t think I should have to find “workarounds” of something as ubiquitous as HDMI ARC in order to play TV sound through my amp, when I’ve paid thousands of dollars to do so. This stuff should be easier, seriously.

Anyhow - this has driven me to the edge of insanity. Please. Save me from my technology.
post #1910 of 3924
ARC only works when the TV input is set to HDMI1.
post #1911 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by rebelx View Post

What's the best method to stream a network connected hard drive to the TV?
I'm planning on selling my PS3 so that I can solely use the Smart TV functions for Netflix, but then I realized that the PS3 allowed me to also stream from networked drives and computers. Do I have that option with the TV?
Additionally, is it just me, or does the video quality on Netflix look much higher resolution when being played from the PS3 instead of the native app?
The only reprieve that the native TV Netflix app gets is that by keeping the input directly on the television, I don't lose the soap opera effect. When I change it to my PS3 input, the TV automatically switches to game mode (I'm assuming this is what is happening) and I get 60hz again. I specifically want to keep the higher hz.

Of the 3 devices I have to play Netflix on my LM64000--PS3, Panny BDT220 br player, and the set itself the pq is best from the PS3.
Your set should not automatically switch to game mode on the PS3 input. It remembers what mode and picture adjustments you're using on a per-input basis so you should be able to change the pic mode and settings for the PS3 input manually then the set should use those on that input from then on. If you have the PS3's video output set to something other than tv standard it might also be the cause.
post #1912 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve S View Post

Of the 3 devices I have to play Netflix on my LM64000--PS3, Panny BDT220 br player, and the set itself the pq is best from the PS3.
Your set should not automatically switch to game mode on the PS3 input. It remembers what mode and picture adjustments you're using on a per-input basis so you should be able to change the pic mode and settings for the PS3 input manually then the set should use those on that input from then on. If you have the PS3's video output set to something other than tv standard it might also be the cause.

Darn, I knew it wasn't just my eyes. The PS3 does *look* better. That'll be a wrench in my plans trying to get rid of it. What's the point of a high end television if the source is going to be lousy. Have you tried any of the Roku boxes or the like? PQ similar to the PS3?

I'm not sure what I did for settings on the PS3, but whenever I hit that input, I see "1080p 60hz" automatically on the top right hand corner. I haven't figure out a way to change this to anything else. The PS3's video output is set to HDMI with no changes to the default settings.
post #1913 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by rebelx View Post

What's the best method to stream a network connected hard drive to the TV?
I'm planning on selling my PS3 so that I can solely use the Smart TV functions for Netflix, but then I realized that the PS3 allowed me to also stream from networked drives and computers. Do I have that option with the TV?
Additionally, is it just me, or does the video quality on Netflix look much higher resolution when being played from the PS3 instead of the native app?
The only reprieve that the native TV Netflix app gets is that by keeping the input directly on the television, I don't lose the soap opera effect. When I change it to my PS3 input, the TV automatically switches to game mode (I'm assuming this is what is happening) and I get 60hz again. I specifically want to keep the higher hz.

I run serviio on my laptop and stream media to the tv using the "smartshare" menu. The tv can handle a lot of formats that the ps3 can't, and it does it pretty well.

http://www.serviio.org/
post #1914 of 3924
Interesting, never heard of that program. How's 1080p streaming?

What about Windows HomeGroups? Can the TV recognize those?
post #1915 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by tampa8 View Post

The first setting sets the lowest you want the brightness even in the darkest of conditions. The second setting is how much you want it to vary from the first setting in increased brightness based on lighting conditions. (Exactly the description - makes a range of brightness)
These work with more control than the preset settings still available.

Thanks Tampa. That makes sense.
post #1916 of 3924
Hey all,

Just mounted my 47LM7600 and started testing it. I usually get 33-35ms with Standard,Cinema and Vivid picture modes and 0ms with Gaming without renaming the HDMI inputs to PC. I noticed my set has virtually no clouding or flashlighting which is very nice. The Smart apps aren't so great but I didn't buy this for the Smart TV as my PC is hooked up to it. The 2D PQ and 3D PQ is phenomenal. I have been using nVidia's active shutter technology (3D Vision 2) glasses with an Asus VG236HE 120Hz monitor and I used to end up with headache after a while. Nothing like that over here.

Now for the interesting stuff. I managed to play games in 1080p @ 60hz bypassing the nvidia 3DTV play limitation of 1080p@24Hz or 720p@60Hz frame packed. You need to use the Zalman EDID to activate nVidia's interleaved 3D Mode which allows you to play at 1920X1080@60Hz without adding much input lag at all (you need to change the picture mode to game mode to remove slight ghosting). This was really good but the only downside is that you lose sound to the TV which isn't too bad for me since I use my 7.1 surround sound headphones to play. Overall I am happy with my purchase and I would recommend this TV.

If you guys are interested in getting interleaved 3D working. Please look below:
Interleaved 3D tutorial:

This will allow you to achieve interleaved 3D - 1920x1080@60HZ as opposed to the default nVidia limitation of 3D - 1920x1080@24hz or 1280x720@60hz

To enable:
Get the Zalman unlocked EDID.inf (you can do a google search for it)
Unplug any other monitors and only leave the LG TV connected

Go to Device Manager and right click the Generic PNP Driver for the Monitor and update the driver installation->Click Browse and have disk and point to the Zalman EDID.inf
Restart your PC and make sure when its up again that the monitor the PC recognizes is a Zalman one.

In you nvidia settings you will notice that there is no separate HD 3D resolution, only 1920x1080@60hz which is exactly what we want. Make sure you set the Picture to Game mode
and experience HD3D without any ghosting or input lag
NOTE: You will lose audio


To disable:
You would do this to get the audio back and when you want to watch 3D movies usually.
Go to Device manager and uninstall the Zalman driver, reboot.
Check for the Generic PNP Driver, thats it
post #1917 of 3924
There are a couple of instances where it has to buffer, but it is generally very capable.I would highly recommend it. There are also plugins available that let you view online resources, such as hulu.
post #1918 of 3924
Software update 04.22.00

I don't see anything in the menu's that have changed. Maybe SD looks better and maybe a new Premium app?
post #1919 of 3924
The 55LM7600's that I've seen in stores looked really dim even without the glasses. Is this an out-of-the-box setting? It was set to "Vivid", and I've heard of people running to turn off the ambient light sensor to have it bright all the time.
post #1920 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyGiraffe View Post

Hi there, can anyone help me with this?... (I have also posted it in the AVR forum)
I am having problems managing to get my Amp to play sound from the TV via ARC.
I am using a Denon AVR-591 Amp and an LG LM7600 TV.
  • Both units support ARC.
  • The units are connected by an HDMI 1.4 ARC cable.
  • The cable is plugged into the correct slots labelled as ARC... on TV: HDMI IN 1 (ARC); on AMP: Output Monitor (ARC)
  • I have a Foxtel (Satellite) signal going into the Amp. When I select input: HDMI1 on the TV, and set the Amp to play Foxtel, the picture and sound both work. But when I play anything on the TV (eg- a movie via the TV’s USB input), I get no sound.
TV (LG LM7600) settings details are as follows:
  • TV Input set to USB. USB flash drive plugged in. If I select “TV speakers” on input screen, the sound works fine through the TV.
  • If I then select Simplink = ON and Sound = “External speakers”, I do not get any sound through the Amp speakers.
  • The TV gives me a message box saying “if you cannot hear sound, check the speaker volume or optical cable. If home theatre power is turned off, it may take a long time.”
  • Simplink = ON
  • ARC mode = ON
  • Digital sound out = Auto (not sure what PCM means – the only other choice)
Amplifier (Denon AVR-591) settings are as follows:
  • Input = TV
  • Input mode= -ARC
  • Decode mode= Auto
  • Input assign... TV shows as “-“. When I toggle down to TV, the “[ENT]:Select” option disappears. This might the biggest clue to my problem
  • HDMI audio out= AMP
  • HDMI control= ON
  • Other info from 2-3 HDMI signal info: [Rep=1080; Colourspace=4:4:4; pixel depth=8bits; Interface=HDMI 3D
  • When TV input is selected, the AMP displays "VIDEO ONLY TV"
The one thing I have not tried is buying an optical cable and using a different source. But I really don’t think I should have to find “workarounds” of something as ubiquitous as HDMI ARC in order to play TV sound through my amp, when I’ve paid thousands of dollars to do so. This stuff should be easier, seriously.
Anyhow - this has driven me to the edge of insanity. Please. Save me from my technology.

Did you make sure your HDMI cable fully supports HDMI 1.4? That was my problem, I bought a cheap HDMI cable from Newegg that worked great ... except that it didn't fully support the HDMI 1.4 standard (which includes CEC/ARC) ... it was driving me crazy, too, until I swapped HDMI cables and it started working perfectly. So I would try a newer/better HDMI cable (one that specifically mentions HDMI 1.4) and see if that helps.
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