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Official LG XXLM7600 Owners Thread... - Page 71

post #2101 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by StCelery View Post

Putting my local dimming on HIGH made my edge bleed nearly imperceptible. On low and medium it was very visible. On HIGH I only see it when waiting for YouTube etc. to load. And I do not have those bars of black that your screen got.

I had better luck with local dimming on HIGH....but as I said, it made the picture a little too dark for my liking....so it wasn't an option. I'm not going to "settle" for a picture I don't like to get rid of a default.
post #2102 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayjer View Post

Actually you don't know I laughed at the LG person on the phone....actually I was fit to be tied...no laughing involved.
No...I don't think I saw your back and forth. I browsed through several hundred posts until my head hurt....I did see some "flash lighting" pics.
I doubt you know much about the type of fishing I do, but I'd be happy to teach you. I wouldn't tell you not to bother trying and suggest you turn in your new rod for your old net.
Here are some pics.
I took these last week....local dimming was at low.





You should return that TV. None of that light should show up while you are viewing video content.
post #2103 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by StCelery View Post

Yeah, I have and, amazingly, they mention nothing about adding your own apps nor about any plans to add any apps beyond this month which is why I asked here. What's your problem?

I simply asked if you have been to that site. You didn't look too hard if you didn't see how to add your own apps. And LG announces apps approximately week by week. It's probably not known by anyone much past that what app will become available, with the exception of a major app like a premium one that sometimes is announced more than a week away.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by StCelery View Post

Any info from LG about updating with new apps? Any way to toss apps on there oneself?

You never said in your post you were looking for more than a week notice. That site was the answer to your question.
Edited by tampa8 - 12/4/12 at 5:41am
post #2104 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayjer View Post

Actually you don't know I laughed at the LG person on the phone....actually I was fit to be tied...no laughing involved.
No...I don't think I saw your back and forth. I browsed through several hundred posts until my head hurt....I did see some "flash lighting" pics.
I doubt you know much about the type of fishing I do, but I'd be happy to teach you. I wouldn't tell you not to bother trying and suggest you turn in your new rod for your old net.......

"Was told to try it for a week or so...maybe it will "burn in"...lol"

That amount is excessive. As I posted if low does not make it reasonable TV should be returned. There are many examples of why I answered as I did. You gave no pics to judge what you consider too much or if you have experience with back-lighting LED LCD. Several posters said it was too much only to post pictures of the smallest amount of light bleed. Others just decided after trying different brands that technology isn't for them and got Plasma or something else.

I agree with your comment 100% - using medium or high local dimming is not the answer, it may help one fault creating another problem.
Edited by tampa8 - 12/4/12 at 9:11am
post #2105 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by jculp99 View Post

I know you are trying to find a way to use the headphones you already own but it doesn't look like you are going to be able to do that. So now if you are thinking about buying other things (soundbar etc) to try to get them to work you might at least consider getting some nice headphones that WILL work with the optical audio out from the TV instead. I use turtle beach stuff and those headphones are great. ( http://www.turtlebeach.com/ ) I have the XP500's and they are great!!! I use them with an XBox but I think they will work with Playstation also. If not there are also specific Playstation friendly models of the headsets. In this case the sound travels to the headset base via optical signal and the base transmits wirelessly to the headphones. The upper level phones also have bluetooth capability built in to connect with game chat channels and cellular phones. Hope this helps.

Thank you for your response.

Unfortunately, I just passed my 30 day window to return my Pulse headset, so I don't think buying another pair is a reasonable solution for me.

What do you think about something like this, however? I think that would work with 3.5mm audio cables (I'd lose the wireless function, but in theory, this should work). It has a "line out," so I'm assuming I'll be able to make do this way with an audio cable?

OR if I go this route, it lacks the Line Out, but I can get a Y adapter for the left and right audio, and then hook up an audio cable to the headphones. I have the Y adapter cable, so I could save a few bucks this way BUT I don't know if there would be additional signal degradation with this route (due to the additional cable in between the box and headphones) vs the above item ($10 more with shipping). The cheaper unit would be ideal because it qualifies for Amazon Prime shipping and I can easily return it whereas the former, although more convenient, would require me to pay shipping both ways if I were to return it. I only want to go the more expensive box route if there is signal degradation.

Thoughts?

EDIT: This one says it has "Provides electromagnetic-noise-free transmission." Do I take the claim seriously? If a converter box were to not say this on other products, would it deliver a hissing sound?
Edited by rebelx - 12/4/12 at 6:19am
post #2106 of 3596
I am currently away from my TV at the moment, but I just played an AVI off a flash drive yesterday. I had sound on the built in speakers (I do not have externals).I am using the most recent consumer software version as of this date.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sammyon View Post

I am not getting audio when playing back '.avi' home videos on my LM7600 from a USB Drive. No sound from the TV Speakers or via External Speakers connected by ARC.
No problems with CableTV/DVDs or '.mp4' videos played from the USB drive. Seems like a bug in the latest 4.30 engineering software version since the sound for '.avi' videos was working fine before.
Can someone try playing an avi and see whether the sound works. If it does, please mention what software version you are on.
post #2107 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by tampa8 View Post

"Was told to try it for a week or so...maybe it will "burn in"...lol"
.

Yes....this was the manager at Future Shop telling me this.....not the LG "help" line....I hadn't mentioned she told me this. The level of knowledge on the help line wouldn't even know what "burn-in" means ( although the wrong term for this possibly clearing up...lol ) ( that was me lol'ing at myself btw )

New TV Here on Friday.
Last chance for LG I think
post #2108 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayjer View Post

The level of knowledge on the help line wouldn't even know what "burn-in" means ( although the wrong term for this possibly clearing up...lol ) ,,,,,

Sad but true. Hope the new one is good.
post #2109 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by rebelx View Post

Thank you for your response.
Unfortunately, I just passed my 30 day window to return my Pulse headset, so I don't think buying another pair is a reasonable solution for me.
What do you think about something like this, however? I think that would work with 3.5mm audio cables (I'd lose the wireless function, but in theory, this should work). It has a "line out," so I'm assuming I'll be able to make do this way with an audio cable?
OR if I go this route, it lacks the Line Out, but I can get a Y adapter for the left and right audio, and then hook up an audio cable to the headphones. I have the Y adapter cable, so I could save a few bucks this way BUT I don't know if there would be additional signal degradation with this route (due to the additional cable in between the box and headphones) vs the above item ($10 more with shipping). The cheaper unit would be ideal because it qualifies for Amazon Prime shipping and I can easily return it whereas the former, although more convenient, would require me to pay shipping both ways if I were to return it. I only want to go the more expensive box route if there is signal degradation.
Thoughts?
EDIT: This one says it has "Provides electromagnetic-noise-free transmission." Do I take the claim seriously? If a converter box were to not say this on other products, would it deliver a hissing sound?

I don't have any experience with the audio converters that you cite, but fundementally it seems a shame to me to have 7.1 capable headphones and downconvert a digital 5.1 signal from the TV to an analog 2 ch. stereo in order to get a signal to those headphones. I quickly checked ebay and see some lightly used Pulse headphones sell for $100. Don't know your region so I didn't check craigslist. The converters you propose may work but it seems as if you would be throwing away audio quality, surround sound and wireless functionality to get from point A to point B. I'm not trying to hawk Turtle Beach stuff here but now that you are even considering a wired solution vs. wireless, Turtle Beach has some fairly inexpensive wired 5.1 headphones. It may make sense to sell (or gift) the Pulse headphones and get something (wired or wireless) you will be happy with and works well with this fantastic TV. Just my 2 cents. Best of luck.
Edited by jculp99 - 12/4/12 at 11:44am
post #2110 of 3596
The Amazon app has been added. Also more 3D.
Edited by tampa8 - 12/4/12 at 3:27pm
post #2111 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by StCelery View Post

Putting my local dimming on HIGH made my edge bleed nearly imperceptible. On low and medium it was very visible. On HIGH I only see it when waiting for YouTube etc. to load. And I do not have those bars of black that your screen got.

I'll bet you do have banding that can be seen in certain scenes - everyone will if high (or medium) local dimming is used. I can see it in the BB store. If it doesn't bother you all the better. But it most certainly dims the screen and for me to an unacceptable level as Mayjer also points out. In fact I can't even get the correct contrast and brightness settings with the calibration disk when it's on high.
post #2112 of 3596
I may be alone, probably am in fact, but those light-bleed complaints have spooked me enough to no longer want this thing. Not at the current $1700 or so.
post #2113 of 3596
$1700?...wow...got mine (55") at FS for $1300
post #2114 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayjer View Post

$1700?...wow...got mine (55") at FS for $1300

The acronyms are driving me bonkers. smile.gif What is FS?
post #2115 of 3596
Sorry about that....Future Shop
post #2116 of 3596
Hey guys,

I recently purchased the 55 inch LM7600 and I'm satisfied with most everything about it except for one issue that has been bothering me since I brought it home, which like for many on here has been the flashlighting from the corners. I think after playing with it I found a fix but would like your input.

First, I must say that this is the first flat panel and really big tv that i've owned, I did a lot of research and the TV got a lot of positive reviews with a few negative ones, most of which mentioned this problem. I thought, it's such a small percentage, it couldn't be that big an issue. Also it was cheaper on Amazon (at the time) than the Samsung 55ES7100 I was also looking at. I picked it up from Best Buy as they are matching Amazon's pricing in order to stem the tide of all the business they are losing to Amazon. I set the TV up myself which was fairly easy for such a large unit but then had to go out of town for a few days before I was able to really sit down and play with it.

After coming back I used the calibration settings recommended by this review. http://www.flatpanelshd.com/review.php?subaction=showfull&id=1333359799

Picture preset: Expert1
Backlight 47
Contrast 85
Brightness: 50
V/H Sharpness: 50
Tint 0
Dynamic Contrast Off
Super Resolution Off
Colour Gamut Standard
Edge enhancer Off
Color Filter Off
Noise reduction Off
Mpeg noise reduction Off
Black level Low
LED local dimming Off
TruMotion Off
Color temperature Warm
Gamma 2.2
RGB Method 2 point
R high -6
G high -11
B high 18
R low -1
G low -2
B low 4

The picture was great, that is until the lights were off at night and the flashlighting was noticeable from all four corners in dark scenes. I though it was just me, but couldn't bring myself to not be distracted by it. I did more research and found that this was a common problem amongst all edge lit LED's, but still felt this was unacceptable. I ended up calling BB and they scheduled a technician to come out who said that unfortunately the TV was within spec and recommended possibly switching to a plasma. I have my reasons for not choosing plasma, and am still very reluctant. He told me to try reducing the backlighting and contrast lower to like 25 and 50 respectively, but this made the screen look very dim and while reduced I still noticed the lighter corners. I also turned the LED local dimming on to low. I am still within 30 days and he told me that if I was still bothered by it that I could exchange it but otherwise there was nothing to do.

After he left I played with it a little more and the one thing that stuck out in my mind is that every time I turned my PS3 off the no signal screen appeared and the problem virtually went away as the screen was markedly brighter. So I decided to try lowering the backlighting to 25-35 and the brightness anywhere between 65 to 75 while keeping the contrast at 85. I also turned the local dimming up to high and as if by magic the problem was virtually eliminated. I still notice some uniformity issues at the very edges but they are slight in comparison. I currently have my backlight at 25 and my brightness at 75 and local dimming on high with all of the other settings as shown above and to me, in my fairly dark living room, the picture looks great, with minmal uniformity issues which at this point i may only be noticing because I am OCD about it.

The only concerns I'm having are that I may be deluding myself as to the quality of the picture with these settings, the blacks seem satisfactory to me, and my girlfriend said its a vast improvement, and that because the brightness is higher I am also concerned that I may be consuming a significant amount more power and also reducing the lifespan of the TV. I'm also worried that this might put more strain on the eyes, though I watched Into the Wild, which is a 3 hour long movie, after changing the settings and felt fine.

Does this solve the problem? Has anyone else tried this? I'd love to hear your thoughts on this.

EDIT: I've added a couple of photos that show the difference between the recommended callibrations and my changes in a dark room. These are stills from Super 8 off Netflix on my PS3.

Old settings: Backlight 47, Brightness 50, Local dimming off.


New settings: Backlight 25, Brightness 75, Local dimming high.

Edited by DanM412 - 12/5/12 at 3:55am
post #2117 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanM412 View Post

After he left I played with it a little more and the one thing that stuck out in my mind is that every time I turned my PS3 off the no signal screen appeared and the problem virtually went away as the screen was markedly brighter. So I decided to try lowering the backlighting to 25-35 and the brightness anywhere between 65 to 75 while keeping the contrast at 85. I also turned the local dimming up to high and as if by magic the problem was virtually eliminated. I still notice some uniformity at the very edges but they are slight in comparison. I currently have my backlight at 30 and my brightness at 75 and local dimming on high with all of the other settings as shown above and to me, in my fairly dark living room, the picture looks great, with minmal uniformity issues which at this point i may only be noticing because I am OCD about it.

I find this fascinating, and congratulations are in order.

But I want clarification because I don't understand the PS3 thing. The no signal screen appeared when you turned off the PS3, and the screen was markedly brighter. What does this mean?
post #2118 of 3596
Initially the screen was entirely blank after the PS3 powered off and the flashlighting was visible, then the TV prompted you to switch to a different input. If you selected no a screensaver of sorts with a cube with the LG logo on it appears as a sort of screen saver, when this happens the screen brightness increases and the flashlighting vanishes, though the screen does appear grayed out.
post #2119 of 3596
Thanks rebelx..it was also working fine for me earlier so must have been broken by the 4.30 version.
Can someone on 4.30 try playing an avi and see if the sound works?
Quote:
Originally Posted by rebelx View Post

I am currently away from my TV at the moment, but I just played an AVI off a flash drive yesterday. I had sound on the built in speakers (I do not have externals).I am using the most recent consumer software version as of this date.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sammyon View Post

I am not getting audio when playing back '.avi' home videos on my LM7600 from a USB Drive. No sound from the TV Speakers or via External Speakers connected by ARC.
No problems with CableTV/DVDs or '.mp4' videos played from the USB drive. Seems like a bug in the latest 4.30 engineering software version since the sound for '.avi' videos was working fine before.
Can someone try playing an avi and see whether the sound works. If it does, please mention what software version you are on.
post #2120 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by jculp99 View Post

I don't have any experience with the audio converters that you cite, but fundementally it seems a shame to me to have 7.1 capable headphones and downconvert a digital 5.1 signal from the TV to an analog 2 ch. stereo in order to get a signal to those headphones. I quickly checked ebay and see some lightly used Pulse headphones sell for $100. Don't know your region so I didn't check craigslist. The converters you propose may work but it seems as if you would be throwing away audio quality, surround sound and wireless functionality to get from point A to point B. I'm not trying to hawk Turtle Beach stuff here but now that you are even considering a wired solution vs. wireless, Turtle Beach has some fairly inexpensive wired 5.1 headphones. It may make sense to sell (or gift) the Pulse headphones and get something (wired or wireless) you will be happy with and works well with this fantastic TV. Just my 2 cents. Best of luck.

Thanks!

I was able to purchase the Pulse new for around $110 after taxes. The 7.1 only kicks in during use with the Playstation. It does not activate when plugged into any other device (PC included). For general TV viewing, it's not a big deal if I don't have 7.1. With the Playstation, it's obviously taken care of.

The wired turtle beach headphones would still require me to purchase a converter box, no? If I had the audio aux output available from the beginning, I wouldn't mind going fully wired. So I think in the end I might end up in the same position with either device. I guess I don't have much of an alternative but to just buy the boxes and check signal quality. As long as there is no cable noise, I can deal with that at night.
post #2121 of 3596
no light bleeding on all corners! im one of the lucky owners for this set!


post #2122 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by caloyzki View Post

no light bleeding on all corners! im one of the lucky owners for this set!


Your pics don't even show your corners. Why did you post this?
post #2123 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by boxorox87 View Post

Your pics don't even show your corners. Why did you post this?

what do you mean no corners? as you can see the red light on the bottom right is that is where the corner is.thats the whole screen of th tv.that is also on of the benefits you get when you had ISF Professional calibrated ur set. thats how good my set is. no bleeding on all corners. smile.gif
post #2124 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by caloyzki View Post

what do you mean no corners? as you can see the red light on the bottom right is that is where the corner is.thats the whole screen of th tv.that is also on of the benefits you get when you had ISF Professional calibrated ur set. thats how good my set is. no bleeding on all corners. smile.gif

I see....I interpreted the the composition of your picture wrong. Why do I see some desktop icons in the lower right corner??

Nice commercial anyway. Every time you make a post, you mention professional calibration. It's getting old.....
post #2125 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by boxorox87 View Post

I see....I interpreted the the composition of your picture wrong. Why do I see some desktop icons in the lower right corner??
Nice commercial anyway. Every time you make a post, you mention professional calibration. It's getting old.....
that is the end of the corner of the tv.my laptop was sitting next to it. what commercial are you talking about? yes because i am proud of my set, and i guess ur set is crap cant even compete on my set. and u cant even afford to get ur set Pro calibrated. lol. if ur jealous go away. lol.
post #2126 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by caloyzki View Post

that is the end of the corner of the tv.my laptop was sitting next to it. what commercial are you talking about? yes because i am proud of my set, and i guess ur set is crap cant even compete on my set. and u cant even afford to get ur set Pro calibrated. lol. if ur jealous go away. lol.

You had someone calibrate your set..... excellent for you.
post #2127 of 3596
Your "Y" and "O" seem to not work properly on your keyboad caloyzki.

I sure hope my TV looks like this.
How is your dimming set?
post #2128 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayjer View Post

Your "Y" and "O" seem to not work properly on your keyboad caloyzki.
I sure hope my TV looks like this.
How is your dimming set?
LOL. i am sorry sir. that is what happened when you are always texting all the time. my dimming was set to Medium.
post #2129 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by rebelx View Post

Thanks!
I was able to purchase the Pulse new for around $110 after taxes. The 7.1 only kicks in during use with the Playstation. It does not activate when plugged into any other device (PC included). For general TV viewing, it's not a big deal if I don't have 7.1. With the Playstation, it's obviously taken care of.
The wired turtle beach headphones would still require me to purchase a converter box, no? If I had the audio aux output available from the beginning, I wouldn't mind going fully wired. So I think in the end I might end up in the same position with either device. I guess I don't have much of an alternative but to just buy the boxes and check signal quality. As long as there is no cable noise, I can deal with that at night.

To each their own I guess. I really enjoy the 5.1 surround in my headphones from all my sources.
Just FYI I believe that with any of the TBeach headphones there is a base unit that has an optical audio in. So you would not need a converter. You would simply connect a toslink cable from the optical audio output of the TV to the optical audio input of the headphone's base unit. The base unit processes the sound for the headphones and sends the signal to the headphone either by the connected wire (wired versions) or by RF (wireless).
post #2130 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by rebelx View Post

Thank you for your response.
Unfortunately, I just passed my 30 day window to return my Pulse headset, so I don't think buying another pair is a reasonable solution for me.
What do you think about something like this, however? I think that would work with 3.5mm audio cables (I'd lose the wireless function, but in theory, this should work). It has a "line out," so I'm assuming I'll be able to make do this way with an audio cable?
OR if I go this route, it lacks the Line Out, but I can get a Y adapter for the left and right audio, and then hook up an audio cable to the headphones. I have the Y adapter cable, so I could save a few bucks this way BUT I don't know if there would be additional signal degradation with this route (due to the additional cable in between the box and headphones) vs the above item ($10 more with shipping). The cheaper unit would be ideal because it qualifies for Amazon Prime shipping and I can easily return it whereas the former, although more convenient, would require me to pay shipping both ways if I were to return it. I only want to go the more expensive box route if there is signal degradation.
Thoughts?
EDIT: This one says it has "Provides electromagnetic-noise-free transmission." Do I take the claim seriously? If a converter box were to not say this on other products, would it deliver a hissing sound?

You won't lose wireless capability if you supply power to the dongle. Get a cheap USB charger and connect the 3.5mm wire to the dongle you will get sounds wirelessly through the headset. I just did that with my FIOS DVR.
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