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Official LG XXLM7600 Owners Thread... - Page 83

post #2461 of 3596
Anyone know definitively if the ARC channel on HDMI 1 is lossless/supports full DTS? Does that even matter with a soundbar (Sony HT-CT150). I've read mixed comments. It's clear that the optical output loses DTS without a service tweak, but what about the ARC over HDMI? My TV and soundbar both support ARC.
post #2462 of 3596
I think you nailed it with your second (and rhetorical) question. Doubtful you'd notice the difference with the soundbar.
post #2463 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by tgm1024 View Post

@tampa8, y'know, I'm beginning to wonder if that dimly lit 55LM7600 I saw at Best Buy wasn't set that way by the staff to squash any excessive flashlighting.

Can't say I disagree.
post #2464 of 3596
......received my lm7600 today.
I was worried about ordering one online and getting it delivered but it made it here in fine shape.
I was surprised at how thin the bezel actually is, the web pics on futureshop's website dont do it any justice, its one sexy TV!... full marks there.
First thing i did was open the box and checked the build date, November, phew!!
Next thing after seeing how shiny and new it looked, my OCD kicked in and before i turned it on i cleaned my entire place so everything shines biggrin.gif
Finally i get it mounted and everything organized and turn it on and inspect it for any obvious signs of bleed or flash-lighting....to my amazement, there is none at all, the picture seems near perfect, aside from the crappy out of the box picture settings..............its awesome!
I couldnt resist so straight away i popped on a 3d blu ray of yogi bear.... the 3D is just great on this TV!
After the quick 3D preview... i adjusted the basic settings for picture quality according to the Cnet guide, but only found the basics, no Expert control menu or White Balance submenu at least that i saw in the display menu...
...so i did a software check and now its updating to 4.31.30...update in progress, taking quite awhile i might add.
...well thats as far as ive gotten with it so far, just thought id give a little feedback while im waiting on the update and can further critique it.....i have the Disney WOW dvd so maybe i will try that tomorrow and see how it does.

The deal I got added for free the LG 3D Blu Ray player, an LG Surround sound system with a sub woofer and 3 3D movies.....having no sound system or 3d blu ray, it made this an excellent choice for me personally....but its all about the TV and all in all so far im very impressed!!
post #2465 of 3596
Be sure you find those settings and follow the Cnet settings exactly. Settings are dependent on each other leaving some out will degrade how good the picture looks.
post #2466 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by tampa8 View Post

Be sure you find those settings and follow the Cnet settings exactly. Settings are dependent on each other leaving some out will degrade how good the picture looks.

Tampa8, can you post the link to cnets settings?
post #2467 of 3596
I posted them a few pages back:

Here is the link the Cnet settings for the 47LM7600: http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_102-573198/lg-47lm7600-picture-settings/?tag=contentBody;threadListing


Quote:
Originally Posted by rer420 View Post

......received my lm7600 today.
I was worried about ordering one online and getting it delivered but it made it here in fine shape.
I was surprised at how thin the bezel actually is, the web pics on futureshop's website dont do it any justice, its one sexy TV!... full marks there.
First thing i did was open the box and checked the build date, November, phew!!
Next thing after seeing how shiny and new it looked, my OCD kicked in and before i turned it on i cleaned my entire place so everything shines biggrin.gif
Finally i get it mounted and everything organized and turn it on and inspect it for any obvious signs of bleed or flash-lighting....to my amazement, there is none at all, the picture seems near perfect, aside from the crappy out of the box picture settings..............its awesome!
I couldnt resist so straight away i popped on a 3d blu ray of yogi bear.... the 3D is just great on this TV!
After the quick 3D preview... i adjusted the basic settings for picture quality according to the Cnet guide, but only found the basics, no Expert control menu or White Balance submenu at least that i saw in the display menu...
...so i did a software check and now its updating to 4.31.30...update in progress, taking quite awhile i might add.
...well thats as far as ive gotten with it so far, just thought id give a little feedback while im waiting on the update and can further critique it.....i have the Disney WOW dvd so maybe i will try that tomorrow and see how it does.
The deal I got added for free the LG 3D Blu Ray player, an LG Surround sound system with a sub woofer and 3 3D movies.....having no sound system or 3d blu ray, it made this an excellent choice for me personally....but its all about the TV and all in all so far im very impressed!!


Congrats!!!! I am jealous!

Could you tell us how much you paid in total, where and which retailer?
post #2468 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Shankenstein View Post

I would try Clear Plus which enables backlight scanning and local dimming simultaneously it will give you better motion performance without out adding motion artifacts such overdrive trailing. What you are seeing is the post processing causing your set to (ghost or ghosting) , what is known as color/overdrive trailing now.

I try this and nothing still have the blur.. any other suggestion please???
post #2469 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by merlo View Post

I posted them a few pages back:
Here is the link the Cnet settings for the 47LM7600: http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_102-573198/lg-47lm7600-picture-settings/?tag=contentBody;threadListing
Congrats!!!! I am jealous!
Could you tell us how much you paid in total, where and which retailer?

I got the same deal. It was from Futureshop.ca

It was listed as 1799 but I got it on New Year's day for 1399 with the free LG 5.1 surround sound and 3d blu ray player. I sold it for $250 since I alreayd have a PS3 and a surround sound setup.

Lucky rer420 got one with no bleeding though. Congrats to that!
post #2470 of 3596
Mine also had ZERO bleeding when I first turned it on. Two weeks later, after completing the entire cnet settings, I did notice some light bleeding around the edges. Not sure if it was the settings or just coincidence, but I suspect there are several factors that play into the bleeding and flashlight effect. I know I was playing with the local dimming and edge correction (is that what it's called?) features when I was doing the cnet settings, so I wonder if those may have contributed to it. These might impact the brightness of the pixels when "idle", such as the screen saver, and waiting to connect to sources. This and the tightness of the back panel screws I discussed not far back in this thread are now my top suspects for the issue.

Despite the little bit of flashlight effect I'm now seeing around the edges, it has ZERO effect when a signal is being displayed. I've checked on scenes with full screen or near full screen solid colors, white and black, and there is no lighter/darker areas anywhere when a signal is being displayed. So my thoughts are leaning slightly more toward a software/settings issue versus the possibly physical issue with the back panel screws.

Not to drag this on forever, but another possibility could be the longer the display runs, the panel expands ever so slightly around the edges due to the edge lighting, leading to tighter squeeze in the panel and housing fasteners.
post #2471 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeekerOne View Post

Not to drag this on forever,

Huh????? Please do drag this on forever. It's a problem that is bothering a lot of people, and there is as yet no clear solution.
post #2472 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayjer View Post

4.31 ( I think it is ) finally showed up and installed.
What is/where is the "engineer's update" ?

Anyone?
post #2473 of 3596
post #2474 of 3596
So my 55LM7600 has started rebooting itself every 30 seconds or so. It's very intermittent as well. I had originally thought it was my HTPC, running a not so official version of Win7, causing the issue but after I corrected that the issue is still there at times. It will happen for 30 minutes or so, but if I am able to switch inputs it will stop after awhile being on the different input. Then I can switch back to any input and it's fine for awhile. It could also all be coincidence as well to when it stops. I've had it happen on all the inputs with multiple devices connected. I'm having a repair man come out later this week on a warranty call. They seem to think it is the "power board", that's what they called it. Anyone ever seen or heard of anything like this before? I absolutely love this TV but this is making me wish I had went with a different brand.
post #2475 of 3596
Hi. I'm receiving a 47" tomorrow, and decided to prepare for it by signing up and reading a few posts. Thanks for the pointers to CNet recommended "settings", and I shall watch closely for new posts about the "screws to tight?" backlight repair theory. smile.gif

I don't know, because I don't yet have the TV -- but I wonder if some "frequent-resets-when-internet-is-connected" issues might be might be related to DHCP release-and-renew address updates from your home routers. This would apply to BOTH wired and wireless connections, so it would seem to be a possible match for the symptoms which have been described. If this is the source of the problems, they could be avoided by eliminating "automatic" address assignment, or by reduced (greatly!) by lengthening the Release/Renew "time-to-live" period on the Router.
- - -
SOME BACKGROUND: "DHCP", Dynamic Host Control Protocol, is how the TV and other interenet devices (computers, web cameras which run INDEPENDENT of computers, files servers.... etc.) receive addresses from your router. Your Router sends 4 things:

(1) The address which "YOU" are now being assigned by "ME".
(2) The address from which you may request the address from names you don't know. (The is the "DNS Server Address")
(3) The address to which you send all data which isn't local. (This is the "Gateway")
(4) The "mask" of addresses which are NOT local.

In a "normal" home router setup, the Router itself is used by "downstream" devices (TV, computers, etc) as the Gateway AND the DNS Server. The address will usually be 192.168.0.1 (although some routers use 192.168.1.1), and some people have multiple, or different networks in their houses (I do - and I'll go there in a follow-up if you really want to know about it.)
- - -


HOWTO: FIXED ADDRESSING
This would completely eliminate the problem, but it takes more work. Login to your Router, and find the following information:

The router's address. Be careful: we don't want the address of your ISP/Cable/DSL/UVerse/DirectTV "upstream" address (assigned to your router by them, or by their modem) we want the address which the router uses within your house. It WILL be "192.168.xx.1", unless you have messed with it in a really weird way.
The other thing you need to know is the router's range of DHCP addresses (The addresses which it could "hand out" as dynamic addresses). Most Routers are willing to assign about 40 addresses. Look for the first number in that range, and the last number in that range. These are numbers which you must AVOID USING as "fixed" addresses.

Now go into TV Internet setup, and switch the 4 variables (Address, DNS, NetMask, and Gateway) from "auto", [impossible to enter], "auto", "auto", "auto: as follows:

Address Mode: Manual. This eanbles the field where you enter an explicit address.

Non-Auto Address: A unique number, between 10 and 254, but NOT inside the range of numbers which the router will use for DHCP. For example: If your router is using 160 through 199 for DHCP "dynamic" addressing, you might choose to have your first "fixed address device" as 192.168.0.200.

Network Mask: Unless you have something really weird (as in: YOU are Time-Warner, or ATT, or Charter Cable), then set this as: 255.255.255.0

Gateway: Specify the Router address, (192.168.0.1 , or maybe 192.168.1.1)

DNS Address: Specify the Router itself as Primary (same address as "Gateway"), and specify Google DNS as secondary ("8.8.4.4").

Finally, create a little document on your PC, or paper in your file cabinet, with a picture of your home network -- showing all devices, wires, and wireless NICs, and show that you've used this address for the TV.

BTW, that took me 10x longer to write than it will take you to do the job.


HOWTO: LENGTHEN THE RELEASE/RENEW TIME PERIOD:
This easier, but less likely to be effective: Log in to your Router. In the DHCP parameters section, look for something like "Client Lease Time". If the value is shorter than 1440 minutes, increase it to that figure. (1440 minutes = 24 hours.)
post #2476 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickst29 View Post

lots of interesting information

You could be on to something. I'm not an authority on this stuff but it seems to be a theme that turning off all network connections can solve the reboot problem. This tends to jive with the scenario you're suggesting.
Edited by CorrieD - 1/9/13 at 2:17pm
post #2477 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck Smith View Post

So my 55LM7600 has started rebooting itself every 30 seconds or so. It's very intermittent as well. I had originally thought it was my HTPC, running a not so official version of Win7, causing the issue but after I corrected that the issue is still there at times. It will happen for 30 minutes or so, but if I am able to switch inputs it will stop after awhile being on the different input. Then I can switch back to any input and it's fine for awhile. It could also all be coincidence as well to when it stops. I've had it happen on all the inputs with multiple devices connected. I'm having a repair man come out later this week on a warranty call. They seem to think it is the "power board", that's what they called it. Anyone ever seen or heard of anything like this before? I absolutely love this TV but this is making me wish I had went with a different brand.


After searching the thread for similar issues, which I should have done first, I'm going to disable all the internet connections when I get home and see if that helps. I did notice that it started around the same time I set up my Plex server on my HTPC. I don't even use the apps or anything on the TV since I have my HTPC, so disabling the internet on it will be no issue for me.
post #2478 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by caloyzki View Post

55LM7600 for $1249 with promotion code or $799 for 47". HDTVPROMOSD.
http://www.adorama.com/LOT55LM7600.html?utm_term=Other&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_campaign=Other&utm_source=rflaid62905


Absolutely AVOID them! Here's what their useless return policy states:
Quote:
Originally Posted by the BAD Return Policy of ADORAMA View Post

TV's or other items shipped by truck: Upon delivery, please inspect the item to insure it's the correct model, in operable condition and that it's not damaged. Do not sign the delivery manifest until you have inspected the item. Once you sign for the item, you are accepting the product as is.


Ohhhhhhhh right! Mr. UPS dude, hang on for a couple hours for me to open this up, connect it, run through and check it out. If there's something wrong, then it'll be an additional 20 minutes putting it all back together for you to ship back. And even THEN there's no way to fully test anything. Trust me: saving a couple hundred dollars for THAT level of risk???? Not worth it.
Edited by tgm1024 - 1/9/13 at 6:13pm
post #2479 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by thx1138 View Post

Tampa8,

I had some extra time this evening and figured out how to get the Amazon app based on your previous post. Once in the In-Start menu scroll down to:

12. SDP Server Selection
1. Server Index

Changing the server index to 1 (QA Server) and then pressing OK reboots the TV and the Amazon app will show up. The SDP Test Mode is also automatically changed in this menu when the TV reboots.
Changing the server index to 2 (QA2 Server) and then pressing OK reboots the TV and a Redbox Instant app is now present.

Of note, I was not able to sign into lgappstv while on these QA Servers.

I have a 55lm7600 and just checked the firmware version. It it the 4.31.30. I had it check for updates and it said there wasn't any. How do I get the 4.31.31? I would like to get the Amazon App.
post #2480 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by quattroG View Post

I have a 55lm7600 and just checked the firmware version. It it the 4.31.30. I had it check for updates and it said there wasn't any. How do I get the 4.31.31? I would like to get the Amazon App.

4.31.31 does not give you the amazon app. I have it and no Amazon.
post #2481 of 3596
I like the small samsung-like bezel this year.
post #2482 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickst29 View Post

Hi. I'm receiving a 47" tomorrow, and decided to prepare for it by signing up and reading a few posts. Thanks for the pointers to CNet recommended "settings", and I shall watch closely for new posts about the "screws to tight?" backlight repair theory. smile.gif

I don't know, because I don't yet have the TV -- but I wonder if some "frequent-resets-when-internet-is-connected" issues might be might be related to DHCP release-and-renew address updates from your home routers. This would apply to BOTH wired and wireless connections, so it would seem to be a possible match for the symptoms which have been described. If this is the source of the problems, they could be avoided by eliminating "automatic" address assignment, or by reduced (greatly!) by lengthening the Release/Renew "time-to-live" period on the Router.
- - -
SOME BACKGROUND: "DHCP", Dynamic Host Control Protocol, is how the TV and other interenet devices (computers, web cameras which run INDEPENDENT of computers, files servers.... etc.) receive addresses from your router. Your Router sends 4 things:

(1) The address which "YOU" are now being assigned by "ME".
(2) The address from which you may request the address from names you don't know. (The is the "DNS Server Address")
(3) The address to which you send all data which isn't local. (This is the "Gateway")
(4) The "mask" of addresses which are NOT local.

In a "normal" home router setup, the Router itself is used by "downstream" devices (TV, computers, etc) as the Gateway AND the DNS Server. The address will usually be 192.168.0.1 (although some routers use 192.168.1.1), and some people have multiple, or different networks in their houses (I do - and I'll go there in a follow-up if you really want to know about it.)
- - -


HOWTO: FIXED ADDRESSING
This would completely eliminate the problem, but it takes more work. Login to your Router, and find the following information:

The router's address. Be careful: we don't want the address of your ISP/Cable/DSL/UVerse/DirectTV "upstream" address (assigned to your router by them, or by their modem) we want the address which the router uses within your house. It WILL be "192.168.xx.1", unless you have messed with it in a really weird way.
The other thing you need to know is the router's range of DHCP addresses (The addresses which it could "hand out" as dynamic addresses). Most Routers are willing to assign about 40 addresses. Look for the first number in that range, and the last number in that range. These are numbers which you must AVOID USING as "fixed" addresses.

Now go into TV Internet setup, and switch the 4 variables (Address, DNS, NetMask, and Gateway) from "auto", [impossible to enter], "auto", "auto", "auto: as follows:

Address Mode: Manual. This eanbles the field where you enter an explicit address.

Non-Auto Address: A unique number, between 10 and 254, but NOT inside the range of numbers which the router will use for DHCP. For example: If your router is using 160 through 199 for DHCP "dynamic" addressing, you might choose to have your first "fixed address device" as 192.168.0.200.

Network Mask: Unless you have something really weird (as in: YOU are Time-Warner, or ATT, or Charter Cable), then set this as: 255.255.255.0

Gateway: Specify the Router address, (192.168.0.1 , or maybe 192.168.1.1)

DNS Address: Specify the Router itself as Primary (same address as "Gateway"), and specify Google DNS as secondary ("8.8.4.4").

Finally, create a little document on your PC, or paper in your file cabinet, with a picture of your home network -- showing all devices, wires, and wireless NICs, and show that you've used this address for the TV.

BTW, that took me 10x longer to write than it will take you to do the job.


HOWTO: LENGTHEN THE RELEASE/RENEW TIME PERIOD:
This easier, but less likely to be effective: Log in to your Router. In the DHCP parameters section, look for something like "Client Lease Time". If the value is shorter than 1440 minutes, increase it to that figure. (1440 minutes = 24 hours.)

Thank you for the post.

Do you prefer Google DNS servers to others such as OpenDNS (which I use)? Also, I have to confirm but from memory, the TV doesn't offer the possibility to enter a secondary DNS server, just one/ a primary.

Also would a connection via Ethernet instead of Wireless helps the people experiencing the issue you are trying to help solve?
Edited by merlo - 1/9/13 at 6:45pm
post #2483 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by quattroG View Post

I have a 55lm7600 and just checked the firmware version. It it the 4.31.30. I had it check for updates and it said there wasn't any. How do I get the 4.31.31? I would like to get the Amazon App.

You need to acces the service menu first: http://openlgtv.org.ru/wiki/index.php/Access_hidden_service_menus_/_modes
And then follow the directions I posted.
post #2484 of 3596
But what can you do in the "service menu" that isn't available in the regular user menus?
post #2485 of 3596
I have been checking prices everyday for a 55 since September! I am coming very close to biting. I am moderately familiar with the pros / cons affiliated with this model. Just want to get more owners' feedback.

Despite those pro/cons would you guys (those that own) say you are happy with the purchase? Would you have made a different choice? I would like to hear what individuals think, and also want to hear what you think the general populace of 7600 owners feel collectively about their tv. Also if buying online, do I really have to be ready to keep swapping? Sounding like that is almost a given. That can be so annoying.


Thanks. My first tv was a un55b8000xf, one of the very first LEDs. Problems with shadows and darks but stunning pq, amazes me still.

Then I got a 50in Panny ST30 , inky blacks but the quality was ehhh. and got burn-in so easily and often
post #2486 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by CorrieD View Post

I got the same deal. It was from Futureshop.ca

It was listed as 1799 but I got it on New Year's day for 1399 with the free LG 5.1 surround sound and 3d blu ray player. I sold it for $250 since I alreayd have a PS3 and a surround sound setup.

Lucky rer420 got one with no bleeding though. Congrats to that!

I bought it the same day, but I paid 1499 pre-tax, however I was able to get 2 BH4720P with 3 3D movies for free.
post #2487 of 3596
I connected my 55LM7600 to a Vizio sound bar. Can I used magic remote to control the volume of my soundbar?

thanks
post #2488 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayjer View Post

But what can you do in the "service menu" that isn't available in the regular user menus?

Check here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1399636/official-lg-xxlm7600-owners-thread/930#post_22236794

And here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1399636/official-lg-xxlm7600-owners-thread/2430#post_22797125
post #2489 of 3596
Finally got around to plugging in my Sony HT-CT150 sound bar. Initial reaction is I'm not super impressed. I'm using hi speed HDMI cables from cable box and BD player to the sub woofer, then the HDMI ARC channel from Sub to TV. It's not horrible.

The sub woofer is plenty for our purposes. The center channel and sub woofer can be adjusted to give you the desired balance. But some sound even from HD HBO channels are a bit muddy. Hoping I can clean it up a bit with some of the other settings.

Another thing is the sound projection is not nearly wide enough. You really need to be sitting in the sweet spot to get the best sound. Again, hoping I can improve this with some settings I have yet to dig into.

The sound was not sync'd initially also. It was way off. Even after I turned on AV Sync on both the TV and the sound bar, it didn't seem to be changing anything. Then I changed channels and that seemed to activate it. There still seems to be a very slight delay with the picture.

Finally, this adds another remote to the mix. Now I'm sitting here with a cable box remote, the magic remote, and the sound bar remote, which does also control the Sony BD player. If only Sony would make their remotes universal. To take the headache away from my kids and wife, at this point if they are watching alone, I'm just shutting off the sound bar and it reverts back to the TV speakers automatically. They still don't know they'll need to use the sound bar remote when they want to use the BD player tho... : ) I have an old Harmony I may try setting up for everything later, or maybe I can get the Time Warner remote to control the sound bar and BD player. Definitely an upgrade to the TV speakers. Might have to change it out if I can't improve on things noted above.
post #2490 of 3596
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeekerOne View Post

Finally got around to plugging in my Sony HT-CT150 sound bar. Initial reaction is I'm not super impressed. I'm using hi speed HDMI cables from cable box and BD player to the sub woofer, then the HDMI ARC channel from Sub to TV.

I lost you on the 2nd sentence. What do you mean you're using hi speed HDMI cables from the CB and BD to the subwoofer. You mean to the receiver or to the tv? And then ARCing back *TO* the TV from the sub? This seems all backwards. That reverse channel (ARC) is to reverse feed FROM the tv to your sound system, primarily in order for the tv to supply the audio synced at the right time, and to have it act as bit of a central hub. If you're going straight from the source (STB or whatever) to a sound system, and the sound system itself doesn't have the delay ability, then you'll get sync issues.
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