or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Official LG XXLM7600 Owners Thread...
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official LG XXLM7600 Owners Thread... - Page 83

post #2461 of 3924
55LM7600 for $1249 with promotion code or $799 for 47". HDTVPROMOSD.
http://www.adorama.com/LOT55LM7600.html?utm_term=Other&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_campaign=Other&utm_source=rflaid62905
post #2462 of 3924
So my 55LM7600 has started rebooting itself every 30 seconds or so. It's very intermittent as well. I had originally thought it was my HTPC, running a not so official version of Win7, causing the issue but after I corrected that the issue is still there at times. It will happen for 30 minutes or so, but if I am able to switch inputs it will stop after awhile being on the different input. Then I can switch back to any input and it's fine for awhile. It could also all be coincidence as well to when it stops. I've had it happen on all the inputs with multiple devices connected. I'm having a repair man come out later this week on a warranty call. They seem to think it is the "power board", that's what they called it. Anyone ever seen or heard of anything like this before? I absolutely love this TV but this is making me wish I had went with a different brand.
post #2463 of 3924
Hi. I'm receiving a 47" tomorrow, and decided to prepare for it by signing up and reading a few posts. Thanks for the pointers to CNet recommended "settings", and I shall watch closely for new posts about the "screws to tight?" backlight repair theory. smile.gif

I don't know, because I don't yet have the TV -- but I wonder if some "frequent-resets-when-internet-is-connected" issues might be might be related to DHCP release-and-renew address updates from your home routers. This would apply to BOTH wired and wireless connections, so it would seem to be a possible match for the symptoms which have been described. If this is the source of the problems, they could be avoided by eliminating "automatic" address assignment, or by reduced (greatly!) by lengthening the Release/Renew "time-to-live" period on the Router.
- - -
SOME BACKGROUND: "DHCP", Dynamic Host Control Protocol, is how the TV and other interenet devices (computers, web cameras which run INDEPENDENT of computers, files servers.... etc.) receive addresses from your router. Your Router sends 4 things:

(1) The address which "YOU" are now being assigned by "ME".
(2) The address from which you may request the address from names you don't know. (The is the "DNS Server Address")
(3) The address to which you send all data which isn't local. (This is the "Gateway")
(4) The "mask" of addresses which are NOT local.

In a "normal" home router setup, the Router itself is used by "downstream" devices (TV, computers, etc) as the Gateway AND the DNS Server. The address will usually be 192.168.0.1 (although some routers use 192.168.1.1), and some people have multiple, or different networks in their houses (I do - and I'll go there in a follow-up if you really want to know about it.)
- - -


HOWTO: FIXED ADDRESSING
This would completely eliminate the problem, but it takes more work. Login to your Router, and find the following information:

The router's address. Be careful: we don't want the address of your ISP/Cable/DSL/UVerse/DirectTV "upstream" address (assigned to your router by them, or by their modem) we want the address which the router uses within your house. It WILL be "192.168.xx.1", unless you have messed with it in a really weird way.
The other thing you need to know is the router's range of DHCP addresses (The addresses which it could "hand out" as dynamic addresses). Most Routers are willing to assign about 40 addresses. Look for the first number in that range, and the last number in that range. These are numbers which you must AVOID USING as "fixed" addresses.

Now go into TV Internet setup, and switch the 4 variables (Address, DNS, NetMask, and Gateway) from "auto", [impossible to enter], "auto", "auto", "auto: as follows:

Address Mode: Manual. This eanbles the field where you enter an explicit address.

Non-Auto Address: A unique number, between 10 and 254, but NOT inside the range of numbers which the router will use for DHCP. For example: If your router is using 160 through 199 for DHCP "dynamic" addressing, you might choose to have your first "fixed address device" as 192.168.0.200.

Network Mask: Unless you have something really weird (as in: YOU are Time-Warner, or ATT, or Charter Cable), then set this as: 255.255.255.0

Gateway: Specify the Router address, (192.168.0.1 , or maybe 192.168.1.1)

DNS Address: Specify the Router itself as Primary (same address as "Gateway"), and specify Google DNS as secondary ("8.8.4.4").

Finally, create a little document on your PC, or paper in your file cabinet, with a picture of your home network -- showing all devices, wires, and wireless NICs, and show that you've used this address for the TV.

BTW, that took me 10x longer to write than it will take you to do the job.


HOWTO: LENGTHEN THE RELEASE/RENEW TIME PERIOD:
This easier, but less likely to be effective: Log in to your Router. In the DHCP parameters section, look for something like "Client Lease Time". If the value is shorter than 1440 minutes, increase it to that figure. (1440 minutes = 24 hours.)
post #2464 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickst29 View Post

lots of interesting information

You could be on to something. I'm not an authority on this stuff but it seems to be a theme that turning off all network connections can solve the reboot problem. This tends to jive with the scenario you're suggesting.
Edited by CorrieD - 1/9/13 at 2:17pm
post #2465 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck Smith View Post

So my 55LM7600 has started rebooting itself every 30 seconds or so. It's very intermittent as well. I had originally thought it was my HTPC, running a not so official version of Win7, causing the issue but after I corrected that the issue is still there at times. It will happen for 30 minutes or so, but if I am able to switch inputs it will stop after awhile being on the different input. Then I can switch back to any input and it's fine for awhile. It could also all be coincidence as well to when it stops. I've had it happen on all the inputs with multiple devices connected. I'm having a repair man come out later this week on a warranty call. They seem to think it is the "power board", that's what they called it. Anyone ever seen or heard of anything like this before? I absolutely love this TV but this is making me wish I had went with a different brand.


After searching the thread for similar issues, which I should have done first, I'm going to disable all the internet connections when I get home and see if that helps. I did notice that it started around the same time I set up my Plex server on my HTPC. I don't even use the apps or anything on the TV since I have my HTPC, so disabling the internet on it will be no issue for me.
post #2466 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by caloyzki View Post

55LM7600 for $1249 with promotion code or $799 for 47". HDTVPROMOSD.
http://www.adorama.com/LOT55LM7600.html?utm_term=Other&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_campaign=Other&utm_source=rflaid62905


Absolutely AVOID them! Here's what their useless return policy states:
Quote:
Originally Posted by the BAD Return Policy of ADORAMA View Post

TV's or other items shipped by truck: Upon delivery, please inspect the item to insure it's the correct model, in operable condition and that it's not damaged. Do not sign the delivery manifest until you have inspected the item. Once you sign for the item, you are accepting the product as is.


Ohhhhhhhh right! Mr. UPS dude, hang on for a couple hours for me to open this up, connect it, run through and check it out. If there's something wrong, then it'll be an additional 20 minutes putting it all back together for you to ship back. And even THEN there's no way to fully test anything. Trust me: saving a couple hundred dollars for THAT level of risk???? Not worth it.
Edited by tgm1024 - 1/9/13 at 6:13pm
post #2467 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by thx1138 View Post

Tampa8,

I had some extra time this evening and figured out how to get the Amazon app based on your previous post. Once in the In-Start menu scroll down to:

12. SDP Server Selection
1. Server Index

Changing the server index to 1 (QA Server) and then pressing OK reboots the TV and the Amazon app will show up. The SDP Test Mode is also automatically changed in this menu when the TV reboots.
Changing the server index to 2 (QA2 Server) and then pressing OK reboots the TV and a Redbox Instant app is now present.

Of note, I was not able to sign into lgappstv while on these QA Servers.

I have a 55lm7600 and just checked the firmware version. It it the 4.31.30. I had it check for updates and it said there wasn't any. How do I get the 4.31.31? I would like to get the Amazon App.
post #2468 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by quattroG View Post

I have a 55lm7600 and just checked the firmware version. It it the 4.31.30. I had it check for updates and it said there wasn't any. How do I get the 4.31.31? I would like to get the Amazon App.

4.31.31 does not give you the amazon app. I have it and no Amazon.
post #2469 of 3924
I like the small samsung-like bezel this year.
post #2470 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickst29 View Post

Hi. I'm receiving a 47" tomorrow, and decided to prepare for it by signing up and reading a few posts. Thanks for the pointers to CNet recommended "settings", and I shall watch closely for new posts about the "screws to tight?" backlight repair theory. smile.gif

I don't know, because I don't yet have the TV -- but I wonder if some "frequent-resets-when-internet-is-connected" issues might be might be related to DHCP release-and-renew address updates from your home routers. This would apply to BOTH wired and wireless connections, so it would seem to be a possible match for the symptoms which have been described. If this is the source of the problems, they could be avoided by eliminating "automatic" address assignment, or by reduced (greatly!) by lengthening the Release/Renew "time-to-live" period on the Router.
- - -
SOME BACKGROUND: "DHCP", Dynamic Host Control Protocol, is how the TV and other interenet devices (computers, web cameras which run INDEPENDENT of computers, files servers.... etc.) receive addresses from your router. Your Router sends 4 things:

(1) The address which "YOU" are now being assigned by "ME".
(2) The address from which you may request the address from names you don't know. (The is the "DNS Server Address")
(3) The address to which you send all data which isn't local. (This is the "Gateway")
(4) The "mask" of addresses which are NOT local.

In a "normal" home router setup, the Router itself is used by "downstream" devices (TV, computers, etc) as the Gateway AND the DNS Server. The address will usually be 192.168.0.1 (although some routers use 192.168.1.1), and some people have multiple, or different networks in their houses (I do - and I'll go there in a follow-up if you really want to know about it.)
- - -


HOWTO: FIXED ADDRESSING
This would completely eliminate the problem, but it takes more work. Login to your Router, and find the following information:

The router's address. Be careful: we don't want the address of your ISP/Cable/DSL/UVerse/DirectTV "upstream" address (assigned to your router by them, or by their modem) we want the address which the router uses within your house. It WILL be "192.168.xx.1", unless you have messed with it in a really weird way.
The other thing you need to know is the router's range of DHCP addresses (The addresses which it could "hand out" as dynamic addresses). Most Routers are willing to assign about 40 addresses. Look for the first number in that range, and the last number in that range. These are numbers which you must AVOID USING as "fixed" addresses.

Now go into TV Internet setup, and switch the 4 variables (Address, DNS, NetMask, and Gateway) from "auto", [impossible to enter], "auto", "auto", "auto: as follows:

Address Mode: Manual. This eanbles the field where you enter an explicit address.

Non-Auto Address: A unique number, between 10 and 254, but NOT inside the range of numbers which the router will use for DHCP. For example: If your router is using 160 through 199 for DHCP "dynamic" addressing, you might choose to have your first "fixed address device" as 192.168.0.200.

Network Mask: Unless you have something really weird (as in: YOU are Time-Warner, or ATT, or Charter Cable), then set this as: 255.255.255.0

Gateway: Specify the Router address, (192.168.0.1 , or maybe 192.168.1.1)

DNS Address: Specify the Router itself as Primary (same address as "Gateway"), and specify Google DNS as secondary ("8.8.4.4").

Finally, create a little document on your PC, or paper in your file cabinet, with a picture of your home network -- showing all devices, wires, and wireless NICs, and show that you've used this address for the TV.

BTW, that took me 10x longer to write than it will take you to do the job.


HOWTO: LENGTHEN THE RELEASE/RENEW TIME PERIOD:
This easier, but less likely to be effective: Log in to your Router. In the DHCP parameters section, look for something like "Client Lease Time". If the value is shorter than 1440 minutes, increase it to that figure. (1440 minutes = 24 hours.)

Thank you for the post.

Do you prefer Google DNS servers to others such as OpenDNS (which I use)? Also, I have to confirm but from memory, the TV doesn't offer the possibility to enter a secondary DNS server, just one/ a primary.

Also would a connection via Ethernet instead of Wireless helps the people experiencing the issue you are trying to help solve?
Edited by merlo - 1/9/13 at 6:45pm
post #2471 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by quattroG View Post

I have a 55lm7600 and just checked the firmware version. It it the 4.31.30. I had it check for updates and it said there wasn't any. How do I get the 4.31.31? I would like to get the Amazon App.

You need to acces the service menu first: http://openlgtv.org.ru/wiki/index.php/Access_hidden_service_menus_/_modes
And then follow the directions I posted.
post #2472 of 3924
But what can you do in the "service menu" that isn't available in the regular user menus?
post #2473 of 3924
I have been checking prices everyday for a 55 since September! I am coming very close to biting. I am moderately familiar with the pros / cons affiliated with this model. Just want to get more owners' feedback.

Despite those pro/cons would you guys (those that own) say you are happy with the purchase? Would you have made a different choice? I would like to hear what individuals think, and also want to hear what you think the general populace of 7600 owners feel collectively about their tv. Also if buying online, do I really have to be ready to keep swapping? Sounding like that is almost a given. That can be so annoying.


Thanks. My first tv was a un55b8000xf, one of the very first LEDs. Problems with shadows and darks but stunning pq, amazes me still.

Then I got a 50in Panny ST30 , inky blacks but the quality was ehhh. and got burn-in so easily and often
post #2474 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by CorrieD View Post

I got the same deal. It was from Futureshop.ca

It was listed as 1799 but I got it on New Year's day for 1399 with the free LG 5.1 surround sound and 3d blu ray player. I sold it for $250 since I alreayd have a PS3 and a surround sound setup.

Lucky rer420 got one with no bleeding though. Congrats to that!

I bought it the same day, but I paid 1499 pre-tax, however I was able to get 2 BH4720P with 3 3D movies for free.
post #2475 of 3924
I connected my 55LM7600 to a Vizio sound bar. Can I used magic remote to control the volume of my soundbar?

thanks
post #2476 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayjer View Post

But what can you do in the "service menu" that isn't available in the regular user menus?

Check here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1399636/official-lg-xxlm7600-owners-thread/930#post_22236794

And here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1399636/official-lg-xxlm7600-owners-thread/2430#post_22797125
post #2477 of 3924
Finally got around to plugging in my Sony HT-CT150 sound bar. Initial reaction is I'm not super impressed. I'm using hi speed HDMI cables from cable box and BD player to the sub woofer, then the HDMI ARC channel from Sub to TV. It's not horrible.

The sub woofer is plenty for our purposes. The center channel and sub woofer can be adjusted to give you the desired balance. But some sound even from HD HBO channels are a bit muddy. Hoping I can clean it up a bit with some of the other settings.

Another thing is the sound projection is not nearly wide enough. You really need to be sitting in the sweet spot to get the best sound. Again, hoping I can improve this with some settings I have yet to dig into.

The sound was not sync'd initially also. It was way off. Even after I turned on AV Sync on both the TV and the sound bar, it didn't seem to be changing anything. Then I changed channels and that seemed to activate it. There still seems to be a very slight delay with the picture.

Finally, this adds another remote to the mix. Now I'm sitting here with a cable box remote, the magic remote, and the sound bar remote, which does also control the Sony BD player. If only Sony would make their remotes universal. To take the headache away from my kids and wife, at this point if they are watching alone, I'm just shutting off the sound bar and it reverts back to the TV speakers automatically. They still don't know they'll need to use the sound bar remote when they want to use the BD player tho... : ) I have an old Harmony I may try setting up for everything later, or maybe I can get the Time Warner remote to control the sound bar and BD player. Definitely an upgrade to the TV speakers. Might have to change it out if I can't improve on things noted above.
post #2478 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeekerOne View Post

Finally got around to plugging in my Sony HT-CT150 sound bar. Initial reaction is I'm not super impressed. I'm using hi speed HDMI cables from cable box and BD player to the sub woofer, then the HDMI ARC channel from Sub to TV.

I lost you on the 2nd sentence. What do you mean you're using hi speed HDMI cables from the CB and BD to the subwoofer. You mean to the receiver or to the tv? And then ARCing back *TO* the TV from the sub? This seems all backwards. That reverse channel (ARC) is to reverse feed FROM the tv to your sound system, primarily in order for the tv to supply the audio synced at the right time, and to have it act as bit of a central hub. If you're going straight from the source (STB or whatever) to a sound system, and the sound system itself doesn't have the delay ability, then you'll get sync issues.
post #2479 of 3924
How do you turn off the wifi on this TV? I've searched through the menus but I can't figure out how to get it to disconnect from my network. I'm probably missing something very obvious but I'm stumped. Really hoping disabling the internet will fix the rebooting problem I have, even-though it hasn't done it in the last couple of days. So it may not even be the problem with my set.
post #2480 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael_Li View Post

I bought it the same day, but I paid 1499 pre-tax, however I was able to get 2 BH4720P with 3 3D movies for free.

Sorry you're right, mine was $1499 as well. Got the same LG setup free too.
post #2481 of 3924

After reading the first post, I can see that this is describing on how to access unreleased updates. I think I'll wait till they are officially released.

thanks for the info.
post #2482 of 3924

Wow....seems like quite the procedure.....but I'm still not clear on the benefit, or what it is that I can make use of.
I saw referance to PCM and AC3 and 5.1 and THX.
Presently I am using HDMI from set-top box to Denon amp and ARC out to TV. Is there any benefit available to me by going into the engineer settings?
Last thing I want to do is lose all my picture settings.....took a while to get it to where I like it with minimal flashlighting etc.
Thanks
post #2483 of 3924
wow this TV is amazing!!........let the NHL season begin, i am ready now!!! biggrin.gif

...im really liking the combo calibration between my iscanduo and the native tv settings as per the cnet guide.

anyone else use the iscanduo?...it has a huge set of pro calibration tools....also does a great job of displaying standard def channels in 1080p.
more info here if yer interested:
http://www.dvdo.com/iScanDuo.aspx

im also using the logitech k400 wireless keyboard and the logitech vx nano wireless mouse with my lm7600...both work great.

does anyone no how to keep the virtual keyboard from popping up when typing in the browser?
Edited by rer420 - 1/10/13 at 11:23am
post #2484 of 3924
Hello
Just bought the 55lm7600. I have 2 quick questions.

1) How do i check for the manufacturing date of this TV

2) Although I am aware that I can expect some amount of backlight bleeding (It is there) but I am more concerned about the entire top has a very very (say about 2mm) thin band of hotness. That i,s the colors are a shade lighter than the color below the band. Is this something you all have noticed? Is this also to be expected from an edge-lit TV? I have returned one set because of severe backlight issue. I do not recall seeing this 'hot' banding on the returned set.

Should I return this one too? But no gurantee that th replacement could be any better or worse.
post #2485 of 3924
^^^^ there is a sticker on the back of the tv that states the manufacture date.

i would take it back if your at all unhappy with it...it took one user 3 exchanges until his 4th tv was perfect.
you can tell the manufacture date on the box before you leave the store.....
edit:
the first 3 numbers of the serial number on the box tell you the build date..ie mine is 211...the "11" is the month november...."10" would be october etc
Edited by rer420 - 1/10/13 at 6:49pm
post #2486 of 3924
Sorry guys one more question.

I'm using the tridef 3d software with my Radeon HD6970 and I want to know what the best 3D output format to choose would be?

I've read people saying I should output the 3D as interlaced (reversed) and that would provide me the best resolution/frame rate. I tried this but can't seem to get the 3d to look right.

If I use the AMD 3DHD output settings the LM7600 will detect the 3d automatically and go into 3d mode and it looks great, but I'm limited to 24fps.

Any idea what setting I should have the TV on to use line interlaced? I tried side by side and set the TV to the 3d mode with the two side by side pictures. It looked alright but still wasn't as good as 3DHD output.
post #2487 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by tgm1024 View Post

I lost you on the 2nd sentence. What do you mean you're using hi speed HDMI cables from the CB and BD to the subwoofer. You mean to the receiver or to the tv? And then ARCing back *TO* the TV from the sub? This seems all backwards. That reverse channel (ARC) is to reverse feed FROM the tv to your sound system, primarily in order for the tv to supply the audio synced at the right time, and to have it act as bit of a central hub. If you're going straight from the source (STB or whatever) to a sound system, and the sound system itself doesn't have the delay ability, then you'll get sync issues.

The only thing that would ARC back to the sub would be TV over the air (not currently using), and LG apps/internet/etc.. The HT-CT150 has HDMI input ports for AV components. This allows the lossless audio signal from the components to go directly to the sound bar. When using the components directly connected to the sound bar's inputs, we only need the video signal that is passed on the HDMI cable to the TV. That's the same HDMI cable that also carries the ARC when needed for TV sources. This setup does result in a delay, because the sound reaches the sound system before the video reaches the TV. What I was saying above is that the TV and the sound bar must be set to A/V Sync: On in order for the sound to be delayed for the picture. And you may need to change channels or sources, for the setting to take effect. But it's not an exact setting because there is an ever so slight delay still with the picture. Not very noticeable, but I can tell.

Also, regarding the muddy sound for some audio ranges... another thing I should have mentioned is that the speakers need a good break-in.
post #2488 of 3924
Thanks rer420

Found the mfg date: Oct 2012 Does this make any difference either way, other than having a feel of how fresh the TV is?
I am the finiky one. Son and wife are not too bothered about it. So have to take a decision if I can or cannot live with it.
post #2489 of 3924
Newer date means NOTHING. Either you are happy with the TV or not. (Hopefully happy smile.gif )There are plenty with early dates the same as newer ones. There are situations where people actually look for an older date in electronics, XM radio's as one example.....
post #2490 of 3924
Quote:
Originally Posted by ibmab7 View Post

Thanks rer420

Found the mfg date: Oct 2012 Does this make any difference either way, other than having a feel of how fresh the TV is?
I am the finiky one. Son and wife are not too bothered about it. So have to take a decision if I can or cannot live with it.

october sounds like a decent build date...if you do exchange it, in the store look at the first 3 numbers of the serial number on the box...if it says 210..the 10 refers to october and a 211 would be november etc.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: LCD Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Official LG XXLM7600 Owners Thread...