Official LG XXLM7600 Owners Thread... - Page 101

Those settings are excellent. That's the "new TV" flu?

Same as Youtube, which I use all the time that way.

No really do have some kind of flu bug. Sorry.

Yes, it is strange that it seems to always be in the upper right hand corner (or right side of top edge near corner). I have noticed the amount of flashlighting ebb and return in intensity as well. Agree that it's weird that it can change. I wonder if the quality of the signal is changing? I'm on Comcast.

Speaking of Comcast, I had my fourth cable/DVR box in 6 weeks show the same problems as the others--No Signal output to TV. The (temporary) fix is to reboot the box and then re-activate it. But it's kind of a hassle to have to go through a 15-20 minute start up procedure every time you want to watch TV.

This time instead of me swapping out the box at the Comcast store I had a tech come out. He brought a different, newer model of Scientific Atlanta (Cisco) cable box and after he hooked it up and activated it there was no audio output! Simply incredible. He had to swap it out for another box. So now I've got another Sci-Atlanta 8300 box, my sixth cable box in 7 weeks.

I'm on Comcast as well, so you might be onto something.

What's funny is I also have an HD DVR and have been having issues with it (but not the ones you're having). Mine just simply refuses to record scheduled recordings. The recording function works, if I hit record, it will record a currently playing program. But if I schedule it, the scheduled recordings just delete themselves. It's so weird. Does it every time, about 15-30 minutes after I schedule the recording. I look at the guide, and the red recording dot isn't in the Program Guide, and it doesn't show up in the list of Scheduled Recordings, even though I verify it after I schedule it.

Does the latest firmware add Amazon? Thanks. SJ

How serious is the flashlighting issue with this set, should I be looking to purchase a different tv?

I was on Comcast for years, and I think what happened in their case is that they're pushing boxes that designed their HDMI port before the world matured enough. But frankly, in general the comcast STB's I've had in the past have caused no end of trouble, change channels super slowly, dump the sound often until you hit "info", freeze up, etc., etc., and the techs will often just shrug and give their own personal work-arounds saying that it's the way it is. I'm on FIOS now (THANKFULLY!!!: it took forever because my neighborhood has the wires underground), and they have their own set of revision problems, but as far as I can tell, far far far fewer than I ever had with comcast.

The flashlighting varies from set to set and people's tolerance levels vary. Trawl through this massive thread and look for photos of people's screens. Use the advanced search function for this thread.

Should you be looking for a different TV? I've found the combination of internet connectivity, passive 3D, built-in apps, wider viewing angle (for an LCD set), magic remote, and beautiful picture at a decent price is worth seeing a barely noticeable slightly brighter fuzzy edge in the corner of my screen when I flip channels, if I happen to be looking for it.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1399636/official-lg-xxlm7600-owners-thread/840#post_22196600

I just did the latest update and no Amazon. Would be nice to have.

Thanks man, appreciate the feedback. I went ahead and bought one. Will be back in a few days looking for picture settings when I have it set up.

Great, please give feedback on the set after you get it set up and have lived with it for a while.

I was about to pull the trigger on a Panasonic Plasma when I read this post. It seemed so even-handed that now I'm not so sure! It's taken me 11 months to decide on a TV! LOL.

BB

I feel quite fortunate the I have no flash lighting issues. I had my set for 3 days now all is good. The only problem that I have is getting sound from the apps. What am I doing wrong? My av receiver is a Yamaha rx v667. HDMI out to TV, HDMI 1 for bluray and HDMI 2 for Directv receiver. Anyone got any ideas? I can use the apps on the LG 620 bluray and all is good.

The apps are coming from the TV, not something plugged into the receiver then to the TV, that's why. Think about the process of getting the sound to your receiver, and you will realize you have nothing going from the TV to the receiver.....
You only will get sound through your receiver that starts with the TV if you have a digital output from the TV to the receiver..... Otherwise you have to use the TV's speakers.

None of the sound you have now from your receiver is coming from the TV itself, but from other sources to the receiver.

You don't say which Panasonic plasma model, but read the reviews of it and the LG and that might help you decide. Go to a store and compare them, hopefully in a room with dimmed lights. If you have not done so, read the differences of LCD and Plasma. Both have their strong points and weaker points.

I love the LM7600 I am a lifelong gamer and overdrive trailing and to a lesser extent input lag are the bane of my existence (over exaggeration), but I don't like either none the less. I have been nothing but happy with my LG. I have seen no trailing (smearing) I have my input labeled as PC and have imperceptible lag. I had a ST50 at the beginning of this generation and was floor by the picture quality. The Panasonic had amazing black levels, film based motion performance was stellar and overall gaming was good, but juddery. It also had very quick onset IR (image retention) that quickly turned into burn-in. I ran the ST50 for 200+ hours before attempting film based content (zoomed) and bout 300+ before gaming. After a 30 minute session of gaming I had the HUD of Borderlands 2 seared into the screen. I ran my pixel flipper for close to 8 hours before it faded during normal content.

I love Panasonic plasma sets and had looked forward to the ST50 since I sold my 42ST30 from 2011 to a friend. The LG doesn't have the same deep black levels that come with plasma tech, but they are nothing to scoff at either. After watching How to train your dragon (2D & 3D) and Prometheus (stunning) a great film to test contrast and overall image depth on any set I am still blown away. Without hesitation I would recommend this LM7600 to anyone.

I am using hdmi with audio return. Should that be all I need? New to the hdmi world.
Edited by Richard Perkins - 3/2/13 at 7:27am

I HAVE A LG42SL5700 MODEL, JUST DOWNLOADED THE NEW FIREWARE 4.31.43, SINCE THE DOWNLOAD, MY TV ALL OF A SUDDEN BLACKS OUT. CONSTANTLY HAVE TO POWER OFF THE TV AND TURN IT BACK ON TO GET A PIC, TECH WILL BE HERE WITHIN A COUPLE DAYS, GUESS FIND OUT THE RESULTS...ANYONE HAVING THIS ISSUE

hey tampa did you made any changes in CNETs settings?

Well I did, but have since changed back. Using the WOW disc it showed a higher contrast by about 8 notches as well as brightness by four notches. CNET settings are for a dark room, I was in a dim lighted room. Color was just 1 notch higher and Hue 1 notch to red.
It was an excellent picture, but I made the second expert setting (mine is actually day and night settings) with the original CNET settings and like it even better. It's not a big change of course but just enough that faces look even more natural. Many are going to think the picture is too dark, but I found after awhile it's not for me. It's not going to make any real difference overall to the quality of the picture if someone pushes up the brightness from 50 to 52 if they want. 54 does make faces just a little lighter then I like, but that's being very picky.

TV shows and movies from Satellite, as well as from Blu-Ray of course are stunning on this TV, and that includes near blu-ray quality pictures with VUDU with those settings. If you are in a particularly bright room I can see making the picture a little brighter like the WOW disc shows.

Do I need to use a Toslink from the tv to my receiver to receive sound from the apps? Any help is appreciated.

^^^That might be the easiest way to go. Getting ARC to work involves changing settings on the tv and the receiver and even then it's balky.

Yep, Toslink works well. As Steve S. posted, ARC is not the best solution, it may work, may not.

Here's a question:

I know that Game Mode is preferable for playing games because it turns off all extra video processing in order to reduce input lag. I can verify that having it in Standard or Cinema modes does introduce a ton of latency in regards to input. Things are noticeably sluggish and just don't feel right in terms of controller input.

My question is, with Game Mode on, am I still getting any benefit to having a 120 Hz panel? I know that Game Mode turns off the Motion Processing/De-Judder completely, but with it turned on in any other mode, the motion in games looks a lot more fluid (but then again, this introduces the input lag). I guess a better, more direct question would be that with the Motion Processing stuff totally off, is it still displaying the additional frames in order to convert/display the incoming 60 Hz signal as 120 Hz?

Or is gaming at 120 Hz not feasible in the first place? I'm a bit confused regarding this, as I see that most computer monitors preferred for PC Gaming are 120 Hz and that it is generally looked at as a positive thing to have.

yes I believe the Toslink is the way to go. Thanks for all your help

You're confusing what a 120HZ panel is. It doesn't convert anything. There is no 120HZ or 240HZ signal, it's 24HZ or 60HZ here in the US. generally selectable on Blu- ray players for example. The panel is what it is, not more, not less. This TV has a 120HZ panel, and not really ever 240HZ, but that's another story.
Game mode is most defiantly there for a reason, that is what you want for games.
Edited by tampa8 - 3/2/13 at 1:32pm

If you want a few more picture adjustments while keeping input lag at a minimum label your input as "PC". I know that it has been talked about within this forum as well. A quick refresher on how to access is enter menu (hub), select input icon at the bottom of the screen (red icon) select whichever HDMI and it will bring up all the different labels available.
Choose "PC" or "Game" and you will have very little perceptible lag (16ms), but "PC" mode allows for activation of local dimming, custom gamma adjustment and white balance controls. If you label input as "Game" game local dimming will be disengaged.

thanks, going to try them, I also have a dim lighted room, what do you think of the local dimming set to high in CNET settings?