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Would like a 1080p DLP that can do 3D and Zoom 2:35:1. HELP!

post #1 of 32
3/13/12 at 9:57pm
Thread Starter 
My problem is that I've only got 2 grand to spend on a projector. I would love a projector that was a 1080p DLP, that could also do 3D, and worked amazing well doing the Poor Man's Zoom trick. However, I'm stuck with 8 foot, 1 inch ceilings, so I can't have a harsh offset. I have two questions regarding this:


1. Let's pretend that I have 5 grand with which to spend. Could I get something that fits all my needs? What projector would I be looking at?

2. With my actual budget of 2 grand, is there anything currently available that I should be looking at ? Or, should I try to wait for something new to come along ?
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post #2 of 32
3/13/12 at 10:44pm
Dont know about 3D, but HC4000 has what you looking for in zoom. You adjust the image for 2.35:1 and the projector shrinks the image inside the 2.35:1 area when you have a 16:9 source. Dont know yet if they have any 3D projector that can do this.

But another solution is to use a HTPC with any 3D projector and shrink the desktop to 2.35:1. Then the HTPC will play any 16:9 movie inside the 2.35:1 area.
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post #3 of 32
3/13/12 at 10:52pm
BenQ W7000? Don't know its price, but it is 1080P DLP, 3D and has 1.5x zoom with both H and V lens shift.
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post #4 of 32
3/14/12 at 10:35pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MovieSwede View Post

Dont know about 3D, but HC4000 has what you looking for in zoom. You adjust the image for 2.35:1 and the projector shrinks the image inside the 2.35:1 area when you have a 16:9 source. Dont know yet if they have any 3D projector that can do this.

But another solution is to use a HTPC with any 3D projector and shrink the desktop to 2.35:1. Then the HTPC will play any 16:9 movie inside the 2.35:1 area.


The HC4000 would be an absolutely perfect projector, if only.....


1. It didn't have a HUGE offset. My celings are 8'2" or maybe 8'1.5"

2. It supported 3D.
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post #5 of 32
3/14/12 at 11:19pm
Then you either go with CAVX slution or my HTPC solution or a combination of both.
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post #6 of 32
3/15/12 at 4:26am
The Mits will work, just plan on dropping your screen a little lower to the ground and use a flush mount. Otherwise, you can tilt the screen and tilt the projector and then you can reduce the offset without using keystone, and still barely notice if you do it right. Or you can jiust use keystone, or you can just tilt the projector without using keystone and without tilting the screen (in which case a small alignment issue exists, but it won't be as noticeable as you think if you do not tilt it too much).

You can easily shave off 6"+ of the offset or more doing the above, if tilting both PJ and screen, you can shave off much more.
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post #7 of 32
3/15/12 at 5:08am
I think your only solution as of now is the Benq W7000. It has 3D and you can use the the poor man's zoom method for CIH. He can't use the Mits because it doesn't have 3d.
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post #8 of 32
3/15/12 at 3:14pm
What about the Optoma 33?
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post #9 of 32
3/15/12 at 8:58pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX View Post

What about the Optoma 33?

I don't think it has lens shift.
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post #10 of 32
3/15/12 at 9:01pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MovieSwede View Post

Then you either go with CAVX slution or my HTPC solution or a combination of both.


Can you tell me more about this HTPC solution? I will be using a PC to run pretty much everything that I use the projector for. How can a PC program compensate for the fact that you aren't adjusting the projectors position? Is it a fake 2:35:1 (even more so than the zoom method?)


I'm very curious about how this all works, but I'm very much a newb. when it comes to pc stuff that can be a bit more involved. I've never even used Powerstrip or anything like that.
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post #11 of 32
3/15/12 at 10:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony1 View Post

I don't think it has lens shift.

That could be a deal breaker for me then.
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post #12 of 32
3/15/12 at 10:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony1 View Post

Can you tell me more about this HTPC solution? I will be using a PC to run pretty much everything that I use the projector for. How can a PC program compensate for the fact that you aren't adjusting the projectors position? Is it a fake 2:35:1 (even more so than the zoom method?)


I'm very curious about how this all works, but I'm very much a newb. when it comes to pc stuff that can be a bit more involved. I've never even used Powerstrip or anything like that.

Its really simple, you make a custom desktop resolution that create a 2.35:1 ratio. That way the HTPC send out a letterboxed image that you setup your projector after (zoom method).

With the right videoplayer, 2.35:1 movies will be played over the entire screen, and 16:9 movies will be shrinked to fit inside the 2.35:1 area with the right aspect ratio.

You dont lose any quality with 2.35:1 movies, but 16:9 movies lose resolution since they a shrinked. But you have the same resolution/inch for both formats so you have a constant resolution setup.

I only tested this with ATI GPU and TMT5 software player. But should work on other solutions.

And it works with every projector on the market.
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post #13 of 32
3/16/12 at 5:05am
I've had another go at this and it seems the only way I can get the image to letterbox is to create the screen size larger than 1920 x 1080 (I used 2560 x 1080).
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post #14 of 32
3/16/12 at 7:50pm
does the w7000 have auto zoom or do you have to do it manually?
Or when you guys says it shrinks the 16:9 image inside the 2.35 frame/screen, does it do that automatically or do you have to get out of your chair and do it all yourself?

Whats the zoom requirement for the poor mans CIH?
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post #15 of 32
3/17/12 at 7:07am
You need at least 33% zoom to change between 16:9 and 2.35:1.

Most projectors today lack autozoom, I dont think I heard of any DLP that has it.
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post #16 of 32
3/20/12 at 12:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by MAZMAN808 View Post

does the w7000 have auto zoom or do you have to do it manually?
Or when you guys says it shrinks the 16:9 image inside the 2.35 frame/screen, does it do that automatically or do you have to get out of your chair and do it all yourself?

Whats the zoom requirement for the poor mans CIH?

You need 1.33x or more. It is manual so you might want to consider the shrink method.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MovieSwede View Post

You need at least 33% zoom to change between 16:9 and 2.35:1.

Most projectors today lack autozoom, I dont think I heard of any DLP that has it.

The BenQ W7000 has a 1.5x zoom, so is probably the only one that will do the task required.
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post #17 of 32
3/21/12 at 5:58pm
The Acer 9500BD has horizontal and vertical lens shift, has 3D and is around $1500. I'm not sure about the zoom, but it seems to be a pretty popular pj in the under 3k forums. I have an Optoma HD3300 which supports an anamorphic lens in 3D, otherwise I would have bought the Acer. Lack of lens shift kinda sucks.
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post #18 of 32
5/10/12 at 10:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

The Mits will work, just plan on dropping your screen a little lower to the ground and use a flush mount. Otherwise, you can tilt the screen and tilt the projector and then you can reduce the offset without using keystone, and still barely notice if you do it right. Or you can jiust use keystone, or you can just tilt the projector without using keystone and without tilting the screen (in which case a small alignment issue exists, but it won't be as noticeable as you think if you do not tilt it too much).

You can easily shave off 6"+ of the offset or more doing the above, if tilting both PJ and screen, you can shave off much more.


you can also digitally shift the 2.35 image within the 1.78 projected range. this is what i plan to do.
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post #19 of 32
6/12/12 at 3:15pm
I'm in the same position as you, I was looking at the Epson TW6000 for a long time but decided not too as it doesn't seem to have any horizontal lens shift (only keystone).

I was planning on grabbing something that has powered lens shift (doesn't have to do it automatically) and just coding a sequence in to a Harmony One remote to change between 16:9 and 2.4 ratio's.

What about a Panasonic AT5000 http://www.projectorcentral.com/Panasonic-PT-AT5000E.htm
or JVC RS40? http://www.projectorcentral.com/JVC-DLA-RS40.htm

Seems like the JVC is priced higher than the $2k budget but "street price" is close.

Edit: Now it's looking like the Acer H9500 as it has the electronic lens shift - argh!
Edited by wippet - 6/15/12 at 3:28am
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post #20 of 32
6/20/12 at 12:56pm
How about the Mistubishi HC7800D?

http://www.projectorcentral.com/mitsubishi_hc7800d_full_hd_3d_projector_review.htm
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post #21 of 32
6/21/12 at 7:23am
+1....my house will be finished in Sept and this is the PJ I'm getting.
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post #22 of 32
6/28/12 at 5:38am
Looks pretty good, a bit more expensive and it didn't review very well for black levels at all. I think for $2800 I would get the ae4000 just so that I didn't have to worry about trying to program the lens shift for 2.35 movies in to a universal remote. The Panasonic is pretty old now I thought it would be getting a bit cheaper!

Edit - Ended up with Pana AE4000 found one for $2k Australian. Auto zooming will help.
Edited by wippet - 6/29/12 at 8:43pm
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post #23 of 32
7/8/12 at 9:24pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MovieSwede View Post


Its really simple, you make a custom desktop resolution that create a 2.35:1 ratio. That way the HTPC send out a letterboxed image that you setup your projector after (zoom method).


With the right videoplayer, 2.35:1 movies will be played over the entire screen, and 16:9 movies will be shrinked to fit inside the 2.35:1 area with the right aspect ratio.


You dont lose any quality with 2.35:1 movies, but 16:9 movies lose resolution since they are shrinked. But you have the same resolution/inch for both formats so you have a constant resolution setup.


I'd like to try this with my current projector, just to see what you're talking about. I have an Optoma HD7100. Unfortunately, it's a 720p projector, and the zoom is 1.25 not the full 1.33. (My screen is adjusted to deal with the fact that I don't have enough zoom. I have a 16:9 area of my screen (no zoom at all), and a 2:35.1 area (max zoom and shifted) The good news, is that the HD7100 has really good lens shift for both the vertical and horizontal. I have to do it manually, but it's no big deal.

I'm hoping you might be able to answer me a few questions:


1. What custom desktop resolution should I create ?

2. What software (hopefully free) could I use to do this ?

3. What videoplayer (hopefully free), would I use to watch the movies ?

4. How much resolution do you loose when going back to 16:9 ? Is it that noticeable, or not too much ?

5. What happens to PC games that I play ? Do I set the games to the same resolution or just play them in the 16:9 mode ? It would be really cool to play my PC games at 2:35.1 type aspect ratio, if it didn't look too fake.


I might as well try this out on my current projector and see how things look, and then know what to really look for when I upgrade. Here are my PC specs:

CPU = i5 2500k 3.3 GHZ 6MB Cache LGA1155

Motherboard = P8P67 R3 LGA 1155 P67

Ram = G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 1600

GPU = Gigabyte GTX 560 Ti SOC 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 video card
Edited by Anthony1 - 7/8/12 at 9:30pm
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post #24 of 32
7/8/12 at 10:08pm
1. What custom desktop resolution should I create ?

I would guess 1280*540 (2.37:1)

2. What software (hopefully free) could I use to do this ?

I did it with ATIs graphic controller for the custom desktop resolution (dont know how you do it on nvidia) Its the software player that needs zoom/stretch option.

3. What videoplayer (hopefully free), would I use to watch the movies ?

I Used TMT5, dont know if there exist free players that can handle it, Maybe VLC or MPC HT.

4. How much resolution do you loose when going back to 16:9 ? Is it that noticeable, or not too much ?

720-540 = 180 lost lines.

5. What happens to PC games that I play ? Do I set the games to the same resolution or just play them in the 16:9 mode ? It would be really cool to play my PC games at 2:35.1 type aspect ratio, if it didn't look too fake.

Some games work better then others in 2.35:1.
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post #25 of 32
7/9/12 at 3:02pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MovieSwede View Post

1. What custom desktop resolution should I create ?

5. What happens to PC games that I play ? Do I set the games to the same resolution or just play them in the 16:9 mode ? It would be really cool to play my PC games at 2:35.1 type aspect ratio, if it didn't look too fake.
Some games work better then others in 2.35:1.


OK, so if I'm going to play a PC game, you know how the PC game has it's own internal resolution settings, do I mess with those at all ? If I do change the resolution within the game, what res do I set it at ? Doubtful that any games offer a 1280 x 540 resolution.
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post #26 of 32
7/9/12 at 10:53pm
Heres is some good help on the gaming issue.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1289900/cih-friendly-video-games

Can your projector handle a 1080 input signal, because then you could make your desktop 1920*810(+-)
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post #27 of 32
7/10/12 at 4:55pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MovieSwede View Post

Heres is some good help on the gaming issue.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1289900/cih-friendly-video-games
Can your projector handle a 1080 input signal, because then you could make your desktop 1920*810(+-)

Yeah, my projector could handle that, but would I be better off with 1280*640 ? DarkLordJames, in another thread, suggested that I use 1280*640 instead of 1280*540, because he said that most 1st person and 3rd person games look too weird with the 2:35.1 aspect ratio, and would look better closer to 2:1 . I could try the 1920*810 thing, but with all the scaling going on, maybe I'd be better at 1280*640 ? I honestly have no idea, I'm just thinking out loud. I probably should try to play around with it a bit and see how it works.

Thanks for all the tips.
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post #28 of 32
7/10/12 at 11:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony1 View Post

I probably should try to play around with it a bit and see how it works.

Thats often the best solution since it differs from setup to setup.

The thing that speaks against 1280*640 is that you have to adjust the zoom when you shift between games and movies. When you create a desktop that is 1280*540 you basicly converts your projector to a native 2.35:1 projector (more or less).

A 2:1 game should fit within that resolution. And that should be 1080*540. That way you dont have to zoom in and out. Dont know how many games that can handle that resolution on the other hand.
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post #29 of 32
7/11/12 at 2:39pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MovieSwede View Post

Thats often the best solution since it differs from setup to setup.
The thing that speaks against 1280*640 is that you have to adjust the zoom when you shift between games and movies. When you create a desktop that is 1280*540 you basicly converts your projector to a native 2.35:1 projector (more or less).
A 2:1 game should fit within that resolution. And that should be 1080*540. That way you dont have to zoom in and out. Dont know how many games that can handle that resolution on the other hand.

Actually, right now, I'm not using my PC for that much movie watching. I have a separate blu ray player hooked up to my projector that I use, so I don't mind zooming things in and out, and adjusting it as need be.


I just want to try this with games. I can do movies just fine via my Blu Ray player, or via the PS3 with PS3 Media Server. If I'm strictly trying this for games, which resolution do you think I should go with? I tried 1280 x 540, but could only get Portal to work. Also, only worked in windowed mode, so I could kinda see my desktop spilling onto my black walls. When I do the zoom trick with movies, the black bars spill onto my black walls, but it's not really visible.
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post #30 of 32
9/22/12 at 10:24pm
You have to do everything manually and the W7000 does not support anamorphic lens in 3D projection.
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