Official Sony KDL-46HX750 & KDL-55HX750 Owners Thread - Page 36

Are you doing this while watching a Blu ray movie or regular tv?

Bought a 750 in November. Have never been really excited about the picture and this week I think I figured out why. TV is hooked to two HD DVR's and each is connected with an HDMI cable directly to the TV. One of the DVR's is basically my wife's. The other I watch 99% of the time. I noticed a few weeks ago that when I watched my wife's DVR that the picture was significantly brighter and sharper than mine. So I swapped the cables and then mine became brighter and sharper and hers was not as good. Well that should be an easy fix I thought - just change out what must be a bad HDMI cable. So I changed the cable and there was no change. It appears that one of my HDMI connections on the TV itself is bad. Is that possible? Has anyone else had this issue? Is there any home remedy to try before I do a warranty call?

Len

Sure it's not just different settings for different inputs? Ie one using standard and the other cinema?

I agree Aaron. I think he has two different settings for the HDMI ports he is using. He can set each port with different or the same settings. I don't think it's the tv itself.

Thanks guys - I think you nailed it. The input with the poor picture was set to custom. The ones with the sharper picture was set to standard. Set the bad one to standard and all is well. Really glad I only made a fool of myself here and not with a Sony warranty call.

Thanks again.

Len

It is while viewing mkv files through Homestream, or converting them to M2ts and playing on USB

No problem Len. Glad we could help.



Thats probably why right there. Your viewing mkv files on a USB drive.

No.
When I use the USB, I first convert them to M2ts files, which are perfectly valid for that input.
When I play Mkv or other kind of video files through Homestream it is exactly the same.

With some files, when I use the Zoom aspect ratio it is like when you use zoom in a camera, but in other cases with zoom I get what I look for, that is just to make black bars dissapear expanding the image without it "eats" part of the image.

I know what you're talking about, and I can't explain it myself. The only thing I can think of from my experience is if the format itself has the black bars on top and bottom but IS ALSO compressed looking (in the sense that the picture is somewhat "squished"), once you activate "Zoom" you will get the "make black bars dissapear expanding the image without it "eats" part of the image". By the same token, if the picture is in a true 4:3 format, and just happens to have black bars around it as well, then you will get the "when you use zoom in a camera" effect.

Then again, I could totally be off base here

I swear I'm going to try this tonight! Cannot count how many times I've gone to do this and simply forgotten hahaha sorry!

Well said gator and I think your right on spot with what you said.



Make sure you try it gator because I am interested to hear your view of this setup.

Wow did Retail Mode make a hell of a difference! So essentially what it does is place the TV in Vivid Mode with everything jacked up to MAX and the temp on Cool, with the Advanced Settings grayed out. It is WAY too powerful for my cave of a living room, but I also believe the blacks look blacker based on how jacked up every setting is.

Gatorboi , try also switching the scene to Graphics . Make sure the screen is set to full pixel . Also after u choose Retail/Shop mode make sure u have the DEMO/E-POP OFF or it will mess up with ur settings display demonstation stuff and so .
The picture settings for me are : Backlight 6-8 depends ( night-day ) , Picture(Contrast) - 100(max) , Brightness 50, Color 50 , Hue 0 , Colour Temperature - Neutral ( or Warm 1 , thought most movies aree already shot in 6500K temperature so i think Neutral is the best choise ) , Sharpness 50 , Film mode : OFF ( unless u r watching interlaced content ) . IN the advanced settings ( u had the wrong scene selected thats why u didnt had advanced settings ) - Black corrector to Low , advanced Contrast enhancer - low/medium and gamma set to -1 or -2 for Film Content and like 0 or -1 for images/pictures and so . Everything else is OFF /Default .

The Vivid mode is very UNNATURAL and ugly , so u should stay away for it . The only TWO picture modes that give u perfect 4:4:4 Colors are Graphics and General , all the rest modes are bs ( thats my opinion because my tv is connected to the PC - HTPC , via HDMI and i want FULL pixel 1:1 RGB ) . Also if you are using a computer u should have the Home - Display - Video input settings - HDMI Dynamic Range changed to FULL ( cos auto might not always select right ) Also the Color matrix should be changed to ITU709 for 720p,1080i,1080p signals - thought the auto settings should select it for every input thats above 1024 pixels horizontal and 600 vertical but just to be sure setting it to custom and ITU 709 .

From looking at reviews and the power usage in usa , IT seems that the HOME mode capps the output of the tv even in USA!

Warm 2 is far closer to 6500k than neutral.

Aaron

So I take it that "Shop Mode" aint for you gator? It wasnt for me or Aaron either.



Agreed.

Depends on where u want the 6500K to be . I didnt explained well . If you have ur TV connected to the PC and lets say you are watching TV series which are shot normally , like normal broadcast , digital shows , or you shot ur home made 1080@60p Movies with your Sony NEX5R they are show all in natural white balance . So if you have the setting for the tv in Natural , you will get the natural colors of them . If you engage Warm 2 mode it will make that tv show , video cam material look somewhat close to 6500K which will be unrealistic to how the image looked when filmed , especially if you were the one shooting it and knowing how it looked for real , you will understand how redicilous is warm 2 . Still its toleratable and it might ease someones eyes when watching and make sport shows look like movies.

HOWEVER The real problem that setting Warm 2 will be that when u watch a Blu-ray movie they are already shot with the correct color filters , meaning If you Watch a movie that was presented in the cinema in 6500K and u engage Warm 2 It will make it all reddish and much much more warmer . Definately horrific thing is watching a movie at like 2500K -2700K .

So again if you are editing a Word Document or Watching Tv serries and u want to make the colors close to 6500K i would understand warm 1 or warm 2 but doing that on a movie , especially one thats shot with warm colors , it will make the movie so reddish and so pale and ugly . From reading this thread no one really considers the fact that most movies are shot in 6500K or in colors the producer wanted his movie to be . If you put the Warm 2 it can make ur TV news , shows and so look warm , but this warm doubles when u watch a movie ( like if you have a transpared slightly reddish layer of glass and when u put another layer ofcourse it will make the things alot way reddish .

I hope i was not too techy and what i wrote is easy to be understood . Ofcourse , as i said before everyone chooses how to set his tv and some people have very very different opinion to what a picture should look . We have a 4K digital Cinemas here , brand new ones . I believe they use Sony 4K projectors , also ofcourse 35mm Film too , but watching the movies there , the colors are close to Watching a Blu-ray at home with the colors set to Natural . Watching almost any blu-ray in warm 2 is redicilous .

tcruise it sounds as though your settings are heavily tailored for PC based viewing and browsing. I have my viewing times pretty much split 50/50 between set top box cable and video game play. I'll give your very altered settings a go here soon, however I am already wary of the fact that one of your settings calls for Graphics (I'll definitely be using "General" instead here).

Steve ,
iegres81 is absolutely right , the TV as a light source emits LIGHT , that light is going to be reflected by the wall it is facing and emiting the light into . The wall will reflect the light and it will go back to the TV and to the Background around the tv . Thats why in movies and especially everywhere where they use projectors , they have all the Ceilings , Walls , Floors covered in Black matherial that will absorb the light . Also the same goes for the sound , that material and the walls have sound absorbing matherial otherwise u will hear echos and ghosting of the sound .

With LCD the light coming back from the wall wouldnt reduce the contrast so much like in a Projector , but it will , which means IT WILL make the Black lesser blacks . While watching movie with Light ON is good for when you are eating in ur bed while watching or if you have eye problems , it will NOT make the BLACKS more BLACK , they will be WORSE . It is right that ur perception of black will be different but so will the whole contrast of the image . Thats why EVERY cinema has the lights turned off during a movie and they turn it a bit only so can people walk in and walk out of in the beggining or end of the movie .
Again if your walls at home are normals , like latex paint and so they will reflect the light comming from the LCD which itself will brighten the room enough . Well if you have a room huge as a movie theathre and u r 50 feet from the tv it might not lighten the room but for every room thats smaller than 25feet*20feet a 55 " tv will procude enough ambient light . Turning on more ambient light will only result in lower contrast and it will be harder for you to focus watching the movie or watching the walls . As you probably heard there is somehting called marginal/peripheral vision . For the same reason i can tell you that getting a tv with a WHITE frame and stand is a horrible choise , thats why sony makes their frames black , and only in some idiotic Samsung models you can see White frames . I have seen such white frame Samsung , even a SIlver/metal lookish Frame looks horrible even if you have very little light reflecting to it . Having a contrast light or items in your peripheral vision is a bad thing because it will force ur brain to focus on it .


The same reaction was seen from you when i fully explained you about Home and Shop mode . Ofcourse there will be difference between 60W and 112 W of power usage . Sometimes you are so full of what u believe and heard somewhere that u state it like a fact without even checking it out , that is called ignorance . I am sorry i couldnt help myself , when reading the whole thread comment by comment i seen that .

Not exactly . My set up even thought it is mainly for viewing movies on the pc itself and for playing games on xbox360 has for focus achieving perfect 1:1 pixel mapping .
If you have played through ur NVIDIA or ATI video card for example and u tried adding a custom resolution you will see that you have options for custom Timing , Active ppixels , front porch , sync width , polarity and so on . For exaple on older versions of windows like XP SP1 you had to create your resolution step by step to have perfect 1:1 pixel mapping . You had to set the timing to DTM , Horizontal pixels to 1920 , vertical 1080 , Front porch pixels 88 horizontal , 4 vertical , sync width , total pixels and polarity and then voala your older samsung can display perfect 1:1 mapping , otherwise the hedious overscan or downscan was turning on and u was getting horrible image .

Nowdays Sony`s are more advanced than Samsung in that pixel 1:1 mapping , efen if you output a custom resolution that has a little different pixel clock , it will display it thought you will expirience blur and loss in quolity . When you choose GENERAL you use Sony`s internal image processing which for example is needed for MotionFlow ( thats why if you select graphics ) it disables it . So when you select General , or Cinema part of the image will display blurry if you want i will make you a picture with a digital camera and you will clearly see the difference for what i mean ( even my mother can see the difference easy when i showed to her ) . For samsung u have to rename the HDMI 1 to PC so u can have 1:1 pixel mapping . For SONY if you want to achieve the perfect pixel mapping you DO NEED Graphics mode . That is pointed on their site also , not with as much detail but ... here is the link
http://pdf.crse.com/manuals/AE7L100511/ENG/connectpc_europe.html

and if you look you will see : 1920 x 1080, 67.5 kHz/60 Hz (Full HD model only)*

* The 1080p timing, when applied to the HDMI input, will be treated as a video timing and not a PC timing. This will affect the [System Settings] and [Display] settings. To view PC content, set [Scene Select] to [Graphics], [Screen Format]/[Wide Mode] to [Full], and [Display Area] to [Full Pixel]. ([Display Area] is configurable only when [Auto Display Area] is set to [Off].)


Again i am very techy and very detailed about how my tv should behave and i can tell you it is better to have ur scene set to Graphics . If you want i will provide pictures in my next post

Complete and utter tosh.

Warm 2 is the best colour temperature for accuracy. As films are targeted towards 6500k setting the tv to match the source is critical for accuracy.

Whether the director chooses to put a tint to the colour or mess with the brightness etc at least you know that your tv is displaying the picture accurately without a blue push or colour errors.

Of course nothing beats calibration but warm 2 will get you the closest.

Aaron
Edited by HaRd2BeAr - 2/26/13 at 9:44am

Interesting stuff, I will let you know what I find out when I tinker with these settings, at least when gaming. I will say though, if your end goal is to achieve 1:1 pixel mapping, I'm fairly certaint that can be acheived without the need for setting the Graphics Scene Select. Setting the Screen to "Full Pixel" alone should do the trick once you disable Auto Display Area.

There you go , Top is Graphics , Bottom is General . Text should be pure red , images are show with NEX 5R 18-55 , with fixed manual exposure , iso , shutter , aperture and so on . You can see how the General scene selection bloats the image and doesnt achieves 1:1 perfect pixel mapping ( even thought it has selected from the sony menu Full PIXEL ) , it flares alot of the blue subpixels and also the red is added to the neighbourhood pixels even to the more distant you can see the red subpixels lighted up displaying like an echo after the ) . Such "halos" after the ) for example can be seen with analog VGA D-SUB because of signal distortion from the high resolution and here its not because of noise its because of bad pixel timing .Also see how the background which is like very very dark gray almost like a black just 1-2 ideas whiter than black has the green subpixels lighter than it should, again that is because General does NOT produce perfect timing because it turns on the internal image processor ( thats why General gives you the option for MotionFlow ) and Graphics does NOT . Obvious you cant have a motionflow with the image processor OFF . So unless someone wants the stupid functions like MotionFlow , noise reduction , mpeg noise reduction , dot noise reductionand skin naturaliser you should USE GRAPHICS .( Note image is taken in a dark room , under the same settings for the tv and for the camera , from the same distance like about 10 cm from the screen ,althought the bottom part was taken with like 2-3 mm closer so it looks just an idea bigger but i didnt wanted to scale it so there will be no interpolation , i just cropped the text and put the 2 layers in one image .
I took more pictures on white background and cos of that they r not as perfect but i will add them soon also .

Also i dont think for timing it will matter if you are using a BLURAY player with HDMI 1080p and computer with HDMI with 1080p unless your blu-ray player sucks . That 1080p signal should have the same timings in both pc and blu-ray .

Edit : Here is the next example : Again top is Graphics , bottom is General .

See how colors are blured again , how colors are emited to the neighbour pixels in the bottom of the sample .
Edited by tcruise7771 - 2/26/13 at 9:20am

Cool stuff indeed man. But is Retail Mode required here? Or can I simply keep Home Mode and flip it over to Graphics with all your other settings?

Aaron I agree with you 100% here. Where tcruise7771 says "Watching almost any blu-ray in warm 2 is redicilous." leaves me speechless. That is the first time I have ever heard anyone say that and where he comes off saying that I dont know. Anybody thats had their tv calibrated by a professional will tell you thats were the calibrator set it because Warm 2 is like you said the best color temperature for accuracy. Again though I agree with everything you said.

Yes you can keep Home mode if you want .

Well the pictures are shot in shop(or for usa owners : retail ) mode but i am talking for the video timing , the difference between Graphics and General will appear also in Home mode .
If you want you can try it out first in home mode , i mean the difference between Graphics and General , the one related to the pixel timing and mapping . Home mode limits and caps the backlight and the contrast also it seems to affect black levels too , because even with higher backlight in shop mode i am getting better blacks than in home mode . Logic is as i said they might have limited the power that is sent to the pixel and since black in LCD = cristal saturation = u need electricity , it will result in grayer blacks and lack of contrast . I will find tommorow or the next test images with 50 % white and 50 % black parts of the image ( how they test contrasts for directives ) and i will take a picture with the camera in both SHOP and HOME mode to the Blacks and the whites. But ill do this in the next 1-2 days because i have alot of work to do in the next 12 hours .

Again if you try the Shop/Retail mode you should also have the scene selection changed to Graphics . You had it in General and thats why the picture settings was for Vivid , Graphics doesnt has such redicilous "vivid " . It has only one mode ( grayd out ) Graphics .

+ 1 Cmay91472 exactly my opinion too ! It seems like Steve has to be always right no matter how ignorant his statements are !

Dude what the heck is your problem? My statements are ignorant? No more ignorant then you trying to sell the idea of people having their tv set to Shop Mode which is called Retail Mode here in the United States!!! And I aint the only one who feels this way. Dont come here and start flaming me because YOU think you have solved the problem as to the differences between the 2 modes and why Sony makes their tv's the way they do. I didnt call you out now did I? So dont call me out. I would say more but I wont.

You need to turn constrast/picture to max to give you good contrast . If you turn Brightness above 50 it will just add +1 and more ot the Deepest black and make it look grayer and grayer . If you turn it Below 50 , for example 49 , it will make the very last level of black before the deepest black equal to the deepest black and you will loose the details in the shadows . It will not make the deepest black deeper . Having said that you shouldnt touch brightness and leave it at 50 ! You can reduce the backlight but it willl also cause loss of contrast thought u will gain deeper blacks .

Ok since my last comments were 'removed" I am going to say this gently. You call me ignorant? Really? My comments aint no more ignorant then you trying to sell the idea that "Shop Mode" is better then "Home Mode".
Edited by steve1971 - 2/27/13 at 6:11am

What is retail mode and home mode? I have a 950 do I have that?