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Official Sony KDL-46HX750 & KDL-55HX750 Owners Thread - Page 63

post #1861 of 1878
Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterXDTV View Post

I went back to Brightness 50 despite the fact that the disney disc was right : perfect black level is at 54, but the amount of clipping is so minimal that it's better to leave things at default with deeper blacks.

About ACE, the blacks' improvement is huge; I don't think that the skin tones are affected, simply ACE boosts the contrast on faces (just a little if it's set on LOW). ACE also solves the problem of light bleeding in the corners typical of LED, because it reduces the backlight on very dark scenes when you watch in dark conditions (night viewing)


Alright, I give..... Warm 2 has grown on me. So when my eyes became used to Warm 2, then i got into this whole juggling act between Backlight and Brightness level. I found the right combination, for me, but I dropped Brightness below 46 when I watch tv shows or movies. Will this be a big influence on black level clipping?
post #1862 of 1878
Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterXDTV View Post

You mean the light sensor? No i dont' use that, never tried it, Every review suggest to turn that off...

I´ll try to turn it off and leave backlight at 2 and see how it goes. I have it on 5 but with light sensor on so in a dark room is less brighter than a backlight at 2.
post #1863 of 1878
Quote:
Originally Posted by willie pastrano View Post

Alright, I give..... Warm 2 has grown on me. So when my eyes became used to Warm 2, then i got into this whole juggling act between Backlight and Brightness level. I found the right combination, for me, but I dropped Brightness below 46 when I watch tv shows or movies. Will this be a big influence on black level clipping?

In my experience Brightness below 50 will give me black level clipping. But it depends of the source and the video. Best bet is to get some calibration video from the same source you wan to calibrate.

If blacks are not that good i recommend to turn on ACE :Low.
post #1864 of 1878
Brightness below 50 will cause serious black clipping in my opinion. I am trying now to stay with ACE OFF, to see if I can get past the reduced blacks, Light bleeding shouldn't be a problem because my backlight setting is very low...

EDIT: The difference in the blacks is very big, to compensate for the ACE (LOW) contrast boosting I am now setting the backlight to 0 (MIN) and Gamma up to +1
Edited by MisterXDTV - 10/9/13 at 8:58am
post #1865 of 1878
Quote:
Originally Posted by booker21 View Post

In my experience Brightness below 50 will give me black level clipping. But it depends of the source and the video. Best bet is to get some calibration video from the same source you wan to calibrate.

If blacks are not that good i recommend to turn on ACE :Low.

My black levels look fine to me. All I get are the screen corners showing just a bit of light how I have it now. But it's not that big of a deal to me.

How am I supposed to tell if there is clipping though. Is there a particular sort of scene or picture that would show it if it was too low?
post #1866 of 1878
Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterXDTV View Post

Brightness below 50 will cause serious black clipping in my opinion. I am trying now to stay with ACE OFF, to see if I can get past the reduced blacks, Light bleeding shouldn't be a problem because my backlight setting is very low...

EDIT: The difference in the blacks is very big, to compensate for the ACE (LOW) contrast boosting I am now setting the backlight to 0 (MIN) and Gamma up to +1

Yes i tried to stay away from ACE but the difference is really big, besides it´s not only gimmick, because if you put a full black screen, when ACE is Low the same screen gets darker. So it´s controlling the leds in the back, not only artificially creating bigger contrast bur rising whites. Blacks, are blacker.

I´ll try to stop playing with the settings and settle on ACE low and the rest as a posted before. I will try to play with the light sensor off and backlight at 2 or 3 to see how it goes.
post #1867 of 1878
After reading that no body had the light sensor I gave it a tried. At 5 the backlight was to high for.my taste. I tried at 2 as some has it on the forum and I can finally say I'm done with the calibration. The picture is perfect now for me.

I thought the screen was to dark because of ace on low, butt it was the back light sensor causing it.

Love it now!

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Edited by booker21 - 10/10/13 at 6:56am
post #1868 of 1878
Has anyone thought that the vertical banding on this set gets worse with age? Is that even possible? I'm not sure if it's in my head or what but when I bought the set (maybe about 6-8 months ago) I did notice some banding but it was light. However now I'm noticing it a lot more. I'm wondering if it's just me noticing it more or if it's actually getting worse over time. Thoughts?

Anyway as for the settings I dunno how you guys can all use 50+ brightness settings, that seems way too high to me (just my opinion). I have mine set to like 37 I think, and think I got to that with a Disney WOW disc so I can't see it being that far off or clipping black badly there. Maybe my set is a bit off I don't know. I'm also a bit iffy on the auto selection for black level (0-255 vs 16-235). I think if you change devices on the same input it keeps it on what it originally detected (for example switching from a cable box to PS3 or PC via a receiver), so I think for the auto setting to work you have to cycle video inputs whenever you change sources that have different black level outputs?

On the brightness setting I did notice on the scale there's a "gain up" point as I've found with other settings on other Sony sets (my friend's EX640 has this with the Picture/Contrast control). Somewhere between 40 and 50 (I think it's like 41 but can't remember) the brightness instead of gradually increasing jumps a huge amount, either going up or down. It's like if you go from 40 to 41 it jumps 10 points instead of just one (despite it only looking like one point on the set's scale). I stay below that point myself because above it, everything that should be black looks terribly grey to me and personally I really hate black looking grey like that.

Also unlike everyone else it seems, I actually use power saving (on low); also I use the light sensor lol. I don't care for a super bright backlight so I find using power saving on low works well (and, well, saves power). It would be much simpler if they just had a wider range of adjustment on the backlight setting though and just had a notification when you went below a certain level that you're now "power saving"...dunno why they place two essentially similar controls in completely different places. I actually find the sensor useful too because of differing room lighting. But I guess it's up to personal preference to a point. I don't think my TV is set all that differently from most people here but I do find those features useful anyway. I have the light sensor on, on my XBR8 and HX909 as well lol. I use the black corrector on low, ACE on low, and pretty much everything else off including MF. I only use MotionFlow on 3D as it actually changes the shutter rate on the glasses and I figure a higher rate on the glasses = less viewing fatigue. Oh and I also have Clear White on low with colour temp at Warm1 because I don't really like the yellowish effect on whites on warmer colour temps (can't even stand going to Warm2 despite it allegedly being more correct). I keep Clear White off though on the Graphics scene which I use for PC/Windows desktop, as I have the colour temp on Cool for that.
Edited by ES_Revenge - 10/25/13 at 5:25pm
post #1869 of 1878
Has anyone successfully used ARC with the 55HX750? I'm trying to use it for the first time tonight and am either getting no audio or the TV tells me no audio system is found, then switches back to TV speakers. I have a Denon AVR-1913 and it shows that the TV has taken control. I have an HDMI cable connected between the TV and receiver on HDMI 1.

I'm at a loss here. The source I'm using is connected to the TV on HDMI 2. Is there an issue using ARC for HDMI sources?
post #1870 of 1878
Quote:
Originally Posted by ES_Revenge View Post

Has anyone thought that the vertical banding on this set gets worse with age? Is that even possible? I'm not sure if it's in my head or what but when I bought the set (maybe about 6-8 months ago) I did notice some banding but it was light. However now I'm noticing it a lot more. I'm wondering if it's just me noticing it more or if it's actually getting worse over time. Thoughts?

Anyway as for the settings I dunno how you guys can all use 50+ brightness settings, that seems way too high to me (just my opinion). I have mine set to like 37 I think, and think I got to that with a Disney WOW disc so I can't see it being that far off or clipping black badly there. Maybe my set is a bit off I don't know. I'm also a bit iffy on the auto selection for black level (0-255 vs 16-235). I think if you change devices on the same input it keeps it on what it originally detected (for example switching from a cable box to PS3 or PC via a receiver), so I think for the auto setting to work you have to cycle video inputs whenever you change sources that have different black level outputs?

On the brightness setting I did notice on the scale there's a "gain up" point as I've found with other settings on other Sony sets (my friend's EX640 has this with the Picture/Contrast control). Somewhere between 40 and 50 (I think it's like 41 but can't remember) the brightness instead of gradually increasing jumps a huge amount, either going up or down. It's like if you go from 40 to 41 it jumps 10 points instead of just one (despite it only looking like one point on the set's scale). I stay below that point myself because above it, everything that should be black looks terribly grey to me and personally I really hate black looking grey like that.

Also unlike everyone else it seems, I actually use power saving (on low); also I use the light sensor lol. I don't care for a super bright backlight so I find using power saving on low works well (and, well, saves power). It would be much simpler if they just had a wider range of adjustment on the backlight setting though and just had a notification when you went below a certain level that you're now "power saving"...dunno why they place two essentially similar controls in completely different places. I actually find the sensor useful too because of differing room lighting. But I guess it's up to personal preference to a point. I don't think my TV is set all that differently from most people here but I do find those features useful anyway. I have the light sensor on, on my XBR8 and HX909 as well lol. I use the black corrector on low, ACE on low, and pretty much everything else off including MF. I only use MotionFlow on 3D as it actually changes the shutter rate on the glasses and I figure a higher rate on the glasses = less viewing fatigue. Oh and I also have Clear White on low with colour temp at Warm1 because I don't really like the yellowish effect on whites on warmer colour temps (can't even stand going to Warm2 despite it allegedly being more correct). I keep Clear White off though on the Graphics scene which I use for PC/Windows desktop, as I have the colour temp on Cool for that.


Your not alone Revenge. I also use the light sensor, Black Corrector, and my ACE on low. I also do not have Brightness set to 50 or above as everyone else does. Now I don't have it as low as you but its at 40 where I find it comfortable. I used to have an HX750 and really enjoyed it but I switched it out with the HX850 which is an awesome tv. I have no issues with banding, clouding or flashlighting as a I did somewhat with my HX750. So again your not alone using those features because I do as well. I find them useful a lot of people don't. I guess it comes down to personal preference.
post #1871 of 1878
I just notice something that I'm not sure if is normal or not.

When I turn all advAnce settings and I put a black screen on hdmi imput from my PC the picture doesn't dim as fast as on the tv input
Unless I turn ace on low the backlight takes a few secs to dim the picture.


I tired different scene selection and same results

When I change channels from the tv antenna between changing channels the screen gets dimer instantly

Any thoughts?
post #1872 of 1878
Here is why is not working

Hi there, for those wondering how turn the the dynamic edge led option on I think I may have found the solution? After searching the Internet and getting no where I stumbled on the answer through the Sony site!

How to use Dynamic Edge LED?

Dynamic Edge LED works when [Adv. Contrast Enhancer] is set "High", "Medium" or "Low"
The setting menu is as follows.

[Home]-->[Display]-->[Picture]-->[Picture Mode]-->[Advanced Settings]-->[Adv. Contrast Enhancer]
or
[Option]-->[Picture]-->[Picture Mode]-->[Advanced Settings]-->[Adv. Contrast Enhancer]

Return back to ( KDL-40HX753 ) Tips and solutions


This is for the European model but is exactly the same tv apart from the last digit!

Hope this helps some people out there because I know this had been bugging the hell out of me!

On a side note- I've tried to post a link to the Sony site but it seems to think that the link does not exist so I have copy and pasted the page!
post #1873 of 1878
I'm going to be getting access to a light meter and will be using it to calibrate my 55hx750. Is there a service menu available to provide more granular control or am I limited to the settings in the user menu?
post #1874 of 1878
Just curious to those that have mounted their TVs to the wall, which mount did you use?
Did the speaker humps down at the bottom cause any problems? I imagine the humps would eliminate the more slimmer mount options.
post #1875 of 1878
Hey Booker,

I have tried ACE on but I can't get past how unrealistic it makes skin tones look. Only people with small pox have yellow skin like that.

The picture looks best to me when you don't mess with ACE. It's just a balancing act backlight level birghtness level. I keep backlight around 4 and brightness between 44 and 47. I also found that having Black Enhancer on low helps.
post #1876 of 1878
It seems the 2014 replacement for the HX750 would be the W800B. It's XR480 and Active 3D. Seems like a reasonable replacement.
post #1877 of 1878
Quote:
Originally Posted by lucidream View Post

It seems the 2014 replacement for the HX750 would be the W800B. It's XR480 and Active 3D. Seems like a reasonable replacement.

Looks thin. Wonder how the vertical banding is on it during panning screens.
post #1878 of 1878
havent seen a firmware update in quite some time has support ended now that the tv is listed as archived on sonys pages.
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