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I want a Little Room Down Under! - Page 2

post #31 of 115
Hey there Pete,
Doing well mate. That roof space does not look like fun. At least it's not too hot now. I have a similar problem. High ceilings but bugger all crawl space. Easier to lift tiles than to get up in there for any length of time.
Bet you're glad that you have your wiring run. It's always a big relief when you plug it all in and it works!
Cheers.
Greg
post #32 of 115
Thread Starter 
Yeh it's good to have them run, but I still have more to run, and also knowing I have to install 260mm thick batts I've decided to remove the ceiling gyprock and redo it in 2 layers. Will update on that soon.

In the meantime I've had the window installer and bricky out again to install the double glazed 20mm (around 4/5 inch) thick window. The bricky had to put bricks above as their was only thin plywood.

Before, 3mm thick non opening rubbish


Window removed


New double glazed opening window installed


Also had a few arrivals too from the UK.

The Grafik Eye wohoo!


And my 14m (45feet) of rope light.
post #33 of 115
Whats the grafik eye thingy?
post #34 of 115
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by damienbuckley View Post

Whats the grafik eye thingy?

Lighting/projector/screen/blinds control system. Basically allows multiple zones to be controlled independently, allowing lights to be dimmed, the projector to start, screen to lower all via one button.

There's a sticky at the top which describes some of what it can do.
post #35 of 115
Hey there Pete,
What's going on? I know i should be the last to call others on short Pauses but it's been a while and you were powering through your room last time. Don't tell me you hung your projector?????
post #36 of 115
Pity to put carpet over that floor. What species is it?
post #37 of 115
Could you tell me how you are going to wire the IR on the back of the GE? My electricians cant figure out how to wire the IR and wall stations. I have two runs of pelv wire to each GE main station with 3 other wall stations and one other main GE.

Sorry if you dont know either as I'e posted in the GE thread with no responses.
post #38 of 115
really high quality build - I love your doors.
post #39 of 115
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dingaling2004 View Post

Hey there Pete,
What's going on? I know i should be the last to call others on short Pauses but it's been a while and you were powering through your room last time. Don't tell me you hung your projector?????

Haha, nah projector is back in the box, although I did hang it for a night to test out sizes. Had no sound yet, so removing it again took no will power What happened was I just took 2 weeks off work to hammer the room, and just need a break from it. I have lots of updates, so just need to get time to post them up. Will do so shortly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Elill View Post

Pity to put carpet over that floor. What species is it?

Good question. It was there when we purchased the house. Was all the way through the place, so we carpeted the whole top floor, and the downstairs study. It will always be there if we want to go back to it. I'm not 100%, but I think it's Jarrah. EDIT: Actually I remembered it is Black Butt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post

Could you tell me how you are going to wire the IR on the back of the GE? My electricians cant figure out how to wire the IR and wall stations. I have two runs of pelv wire to each GE main station with 3 other wall stations and one other main GE.

Sorry if you dont know either as I'e posted in the GE thread with no responses.

Another good question. Your's is more complicated, but for me I'll be using a cat5 from the GE to the front of the room which the IR convertor from the RF Harmony 900 will use. Not sure if that's the right way, but it's how I'm envisioning, and wiring it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by designcouch View Post

really high quality build - I love your doors.

Thank you. The doors seemed to take 3 times longer then I thought they would. Lots of fiddly bits.
post #40 of 115
Thread Starter 
Well I've fallen into the trap of starting a thread, and then trailing off as time goes on. Guilty as charged. Now that doesn't mean I haven't been working on the room, just that I haven't been updating as often as I would of liked.

So in saying that I've collated months of photos and will be posting those up over the next few weeks.

One of the reasons for the delay to the work was 2 sets of double doors I purcahsed a while ago, and only now have got around to installing, sanding, staining, etc. Working full time with 2 little ones under 3 means time is short, so I work on the HT/projects when I can. Here is the work on the doors that kept me busying for many weekends....staining to the level of complete smoothness takes some coats, and some time.

The openings on the left and right are where the doors will go. One leads to a study the other to a formal lounge room that will be a standard lounge room once the HT goes in.
IMG_4730.jpg

From the other side, note my dirty work clothes strewn on the floor, whoops.
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One door in, the frame installed for the 2nd.
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Set up in the garage for staining. You can see the HT deliveries of batts and some old batts which came out of the ceiling. Also there is a few cartons of green glue and sealant on the floor. The same amount is on the other side of the table.
IMG_6547_resize.jpg

Taping all of those panes on both sides x 4 is a...well, a pain.
IMG_6555_resize.jpg

I'll post a completed pic of the doors next.

And here's the completed home theatre! Yeh baby, rocking!
IMG_6136_resize.jpg

7.1 installed and looking good. Actually I was just testing the cabling and general layout. Everything seems fine.
IMG_6139_resize.jpg


Also next will post what happens when you don't know how to remove a ceiling correctly...whoops.
post #41 of 115
Thread Starter 
Orginally I wasn't going to pull the ceiling gyprock (drywall for those north of the equator) off as it would be too much work. Eventually I realised it would be took much work to not pull it off. So I decided to remove the cornice, then start in the far corner and pull the screws out, and the gyprock would come off one piece at a time. Easy....not.

This is what the room looked like early in the day.
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So I pulled the lights out, then this is literally a few mins later.

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I was pulling the corner piece and saw it was moving more then I was pulling, so I ran for the door, which I had already closed. All I could do was stand there and break the fall of the gyprock with my stupid noggin. Also it bent the lights stands a little. Other then that, there was no damage, just shattered gyprock and dust as far as you could see. After it all collapsed and I made sure I was ok, I had a good chuckle to myself, as I was the only one home. Then started on the process of cleaning up.
IMG_6558_resize.jpg

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Luckily I had the door closed. Saved crap going all over the house.
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All clean now, and finally get a decent look at what I need to work on. So much better to have access like this.
IMG_6570_resize.jpg

My first job will be sorting out the air conditioning duct. Need to put a damper in, then install a 10" to 2x8" splitter, and then run the new vents around the side of the room.
IMG_6575_resize.jpg
post #42 of 115
WOW! eek.gif

Glad you're okay. I guess you get the chance to rewire or put something new in the ceiling . . .
post #43 of 115
Thread Starter 
Yeh Nick, I will be taking the oppurtunity to clean up the wiring and lay the batts perfectly how I want. After doing the batts now I don't see how I would ever of done it otherwise. The shots of the inside of the roof cavity show how cramped it was, and always relying on good weather killed many a weekend for me. This way things will run much smoother.

Here's some more updates.

I added the damper to the duct. Seems to be working fine.
IMG_6587_resize.jpg

This is where the rooms return will go, next to an existing one. I need to do a vent here otherwise the tight seal in the room will pressurise and I'll get no new air into it. In the HT the vent will be in the front right corner of the room.
IMG_6596_resize.jpg

This is the return entering the HT. It will be hidden in the soffit.
IMG_6679_resize.jpg

This is where it is in relation to the room.
IMG_6599_resize.jpg

Once the damper was in, I added a 10" to 2 x 8" Y splitter.
IMG_6678_resize.jpg

This is one of the 8" ducts which will supply the left side of the room.
IMG_6717_resize.jpg

My Grandview 112" screen arrived. I was nervous about buying a screen so large, and even now still not sure what it will be like in the completed room. I put it up to see how it felt. So how did it feel? .... HUGE!
IMG_6610_resize.jpg

Also mounted the projector (Panny AE7000) on a sliding bracket so I could get an idea of distance, and where to end the sofitt that will house the projector.
IMG_6667_resize.jpg
post #44 of 115
Looking good.

You know that is the first time I have ever seen "duct tape" used for ducting smile.gif
post #45 of 115
LOL ! That's gotta be the earliest screen and projector hang I've ever seen. Don't turn it on or all work will cease !

BTW ... glad you survived the ceiling collapse unscathed ... do you think it was fastened properly ?

Cheers,
post #46 of 115
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elill View Post

Looking good.
You know that is the first time I have ever seen "duct tape" used for ducting smile.gif

Well it changed it's name from duck tape (due to it's waterproof ability) to duct tape to reflect the usage in air conditioning ducts, so it's strange you haven't seen it used that way. There are also clamps within the tape, so it's more an extra insulator/sealer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter M View Post

LOL ! That's gotta be the earliest screen and projector hang I've ever seen. Don't turn it on or all work will cease !
BTW ... glad you survived the ceiling collapse unscathed ... do you think it was fastened properly ?
Cheers,

haha, I turned it on and watched a few samples, but the interest quickly fades when the picture has no volume.
As for the ceiling it's quite disturbing knowing I only undid about 5 screws from the corner piece and that was the result. I had removed the cornice all around, so I guess that must really assist in holding it all up.
post #47 of 115
Duct tape isn't designed for duct work. The adhesive will dry out over time and leak air.

The correct way to attach is to use zip ties to secure the flex duct. Then two sheet metal screws to prevent the zip tie from being able to slide
off the flex duct. Then use foil tape to seal.
post #48 of 115
Thread Starter 
Thanks Tedd. I have zip ties under the tape actually. Also don't need the metal screws as the duct joints are ribbed to hold the zip in place. Wasn't aware of foil tape though. Does it not use an adhesive, hence no drying out?
post #49 of 115
The foil tape does have an adhesive but apparently it doesn't dry out. That bit of advice comes from a HVAC pro, (when we redid the HVAC sheet metal to a lower/wider profile) and from the Mrs, who works for a company
that distributes foil tape. I could get her to ask one of the engineers if you want the science behind it. My guess would be the adhesive layer is much thinner and less prone to drying out, and the metal foil is much thinner
and seals better when applied. It also is easier to wrap above ductwork since the foil has a waxy paper backer. The HVAC pro also coated the foil tape with a layer of pipe dope to further seal.

The duct tape drying out part, comes from personal experience. smile.gif It's better then not sealing, but consider it a ten year solution. The HVAC pro did nicely inform me duct tape isn't for ducts.
Edited by Tedd - 7/2/12 at 8:23pm
post #50 of 115
Thread Starter 
Well the house is 12 yrs old now, and the original ducting was done at that time, before we were there.

This shot shows the original duct tape still attached to the duct and vent
400

If after 12 yrs it's still attached solidly, which it is, I'm content with that. Besides the room is now sealed so no going back smile.gif
post #51 of 115
Hey there Peter,
Apart from pulling half of the house onto your head..... things are going well. It's always a relief when all of your connections are OK. I would be very reluctant to turn that projector on. Apart from the delays it has caused my project (rapidly approaching 500 hours now!) you may have an issue with dust blogs.
Screen looks great. Looks like a great size for the room. Look forward to seeing more of your progress (and mine!)
Cheers
Greg
post #52 of 115
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dingaling2004 View Post

I would be very reluctant to turn that projector on. Apart from the delays it has caused my project (rapidly approaching 500 hours now!) you may have an issue with dust blogs.

Well it was on for about 15 mins while I checked the screen size, then it was back in the box the same night. Hopefully I've avoided any blogs.

Thanks for the comments, and agree with you about progress. Would love to see more of both of our rooms progressing, but unless you take 3 months off work and just solidly hit the project, life, kids, and love get in the way of committing that amount of time. Hopefully you can knock over your other projects and then get back to your real passion.

Personally I'm at the framing stage now of the soffit, and being a wood head, am loving it. Will post some more updates later today.

Cheers,
post #53 of 115
Thread Starter 
I've added my own mounting boxes for the cabling to assist in containing spillage both in and out. This one contains the sub cable and power, plus the conduit will enable access if needed.
IMG_6675_resize.jpg

Another one near the back corner.
IMG_6672_resize.jpg

This one is for the grafik eye controller, and the run of cables. I have no explanation for the box of tissues.
IMG_6706_resize.jpg

The cabling is essentially done, so I've started adding the straps to contain the batts. This shot also shows the large lumber of holes needed for the front gyprocking as I'll be having 4 x 4 power plugs, as well as all the other connections.
IMG_6699_resize.jpg

Originally I was going to place the gyprock directly onto the exitsing beams. Problem is the beams are a mess and don't all go the same direction, so hitting them for double layers could be difficult. Instead I'll sacrifice the loss of 22mm (almost 1inch) ceiling height and place furling strips the entire length, every 400mm (16inches). I bought a bunch of 5.4m treated pine decking boards. Don't need treated pine, but they were cheap, and they were the right distance as the room is 5.4m long. Here's the start of the strips going in.
IMG_6717_resize.jpg

Some of the room beams go a different direction, so I had to put in some support beams to take the strips.
IMG_6720_resize.jpg

Furling strips all in now.
IMG_6729_resize.jpg

I got help from a mate and we installed all the R6 (270mm/11 inches) ceiling batts. The furling strips were invaluable even for this work.
IMG_6734_resize.jpg'

Fast forward a few days later as another mate gave me a hand with the walls. I used Bradford 2.5 SoundScreen batts here. Very dense, and easy to work with. This shot is after we cleaned up the huge mess all those batts make. For those who have done it, I'm sure you'll agree.
IMG_6739_resize.jpg

IMG_6742_resize.jpg


Things have been moving fast, but that's because I took 2 weeks leave from work and just hit the room hard, so all this work was done in that block.
Next up is the start of the gyprocking. yeh baby!
post #54 of 115
Thread Starter 
I've been thinking about the projector, and how I'll be venting the air considering it will be in an enclosed area in the soffit. Biggest size fan I could get would be a 6", maybe 8". If I install a fan at the back of the space, with ducting running up into the roof cavity, how can I control when the fan turns on? Is it simple to use it with the projector's (Panny AE7000) 12v option so it turns on/off in sync with the projector?
post #55 of 115
Thread Starter 
Well even though it's been a while since I posted, things have moved along in real life, so time to update the thread a little. I have another 2 weeks leave coming up, so will be working on the soffit and getting the lighting sorted.

I have updated images of the gyprock (drywall) process, and more, so will try and get some updates sorted out and uploaded.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSly View Post

I've been thinking about the projector, and how I'll be venting the air considering it will be in an enclosed area in the soffit. Biggest size fan I could get would be a 6", maybe 8". If I install a fan at the back of the space, with ducting running up into the roof cavity, how can I control when the fan turns on? Is it simple to use it with the projector's (Panny AE7000) 12v option so it turns on/off in sync with the projector?

In regards to this question, I installed 2 x 6" fans, one in and one out, and will control them via the 12v on the panny. Pictures to follow.

What I'm currently stuck on though is the Grafik Eye QS install. I don't know how to configure it so it controls the projector turning on and off. I've ran cat5 between them, but am not sure where to run it too on both ends. If anyone has any info I'd appreciate some input.

Thanks,
post #56 of 115
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSly View Post

What I'm currently stuck on though is the Grafik Eye QS install. I don't know how to configure it so it controls the projector turning on and off. I've ran cat5 between them, but am not sure where to run it too on both ends. If anyone has any info I'd appreciate some input.
Thanks,
Back with an update.
I've now solved this problem by not having the projector connected to the GE. Really no point in doing so. I'll have the lights controlled via remote to the GE, and the projector the same way.

Things have been moving steadily along, so I'll post some updates on what has been done.

Thanks to Greg, I have a great gyprock lift to assist with the work.
IMG_6767_resize-1.jpg

First piece of 16mm Fyrecheck installed.
IMG_6769_resize.jpg

1st layer almost complete. Lucky I always had someone helping, as the 2.7m lengths weigh almost as much as me. You can see the cutouts for the cabinet and 55" on the wall.
IMG_6785_resize.jpg

2nd layer gets started.
IMG_6805_resize-1.jpg

All done! Can see my new LED lights here too. The older tungsten lights made me feel sunburnt after a day of work in there. These are much better.
IMG_7631_resize.jpg

All ready for the sofitt framing now.
IMG_7641_resize.jpg
post #57 of 115
Thread Starter 
Next up is the sofitt. Here's a plan of what I'll be building.

The overhang will allow the rope light to be contained within. Projector housing will be contained as a hush box with a fan for the in and the out vents.
sofitt2.jpg

Ventured to Bunnings and grabbed the timber. Think the overhang off the back was more then should be allowed, but I made it home ok.
IMG_7799_resize.jpg

I'll be doing this part alone, so some creative soloing was required to hold pieces in place while I get them level and attached.
IMG_7807_resize-1.jpg

I built the frame in modular form and then lifted it into place with the help of clamps.
IMG_7831_resize-1.jpg

First piece is up!
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Clamps were invaluable when you need to do this alone.
IMG_7852_resize-1.jpg

Starting to take shape.
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The projector housing is in the middle.
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This is the overhang that will hold the rope lights. I'll attach a 16mmx90mm timber piece to the front. The boxed section is the return for the air con, vented to the room next door. It contains double layer MDF GG'd.
IMG_8180_resize.jpg
post #58 of 115
Hey there Peter. Looking really good mate. You're going a great job. Those gyprock photos look uncomfortably familiar! Glad the lift has gone well for you and saved your back a little. Those soffits are coming along well. Cheers.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
post #59 of 115
Looks great ! I think your soffit framing is a bit light though !! LOL biggrin.gif
post #60 of 115
Nicely done. It's tough to do things like that by yourself. wink.gif
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