Official Samsung PNXXE7000 - PNXXE8000 owners thread - Page 41

Guys, just how bad are these E series sets in terms of the screen turning off when the tv gets a black image. CNET says when it receives an all-black image, like a long fade between credits or scenes, the tv turns the screen off completely, like many LED LCDs. This sounds like it could be dreadfully annoying - how bad is it, and does it kick in often during a movie or normal television watching? How about when gaming?

It isn't a factor at all, really -- I noticed it once, but then someone posted that if you raise the brightess 1 point (from 45 to 46) it stops doing it completely. Since I couldn't see much difference between 45 and 46, I raised it and never saw the TV do it again.

Can't say it bothered me at all either really

I dunno what is the reason why Samsung decided to drop te mjc off from plasma panels. I think it would be a nice feature to have.

Thanks, guys, for the replys about the screen turning off. Glad to hear it's not an issue in real life.

Got my 60" E7000 yesterday. I hear the buzzing easily on scenes where it's quiet. I'm sitting around 10 feet away. It's loud enough to bother me. I can even hear the sound from the wall behind me, so it must be reflecting off of the wall/couch.

Amazon is going to have the shipping company come pick it up next week. Thinking about trying a GT50...

I had a PN59D8000 that had a screen buzz and 5 returns later (none of these were Samsung Plasmas but I decided it was time to take another shot) I purchased a PN60E7000 unit that arrived yesterday.

This unit does have a screen buzz but it's quieter and within my tolerances but just so. The good news is I can only hear it when I turn my head to the left where my right ear detects it. If I'm off axis by 1.5-2 feet to the left I can't hear it regardless. I think I can live with this.

I wanted to avoid a Panasonic plasma if at all possible because of the inferior video processing and the plasticky design.

Has fallen behind in games(input lag).

Dynamic is always a bad idea regardless the source.

@deria
Did you crush details before changing the brightnesssetting?

Just make sure and set your brightness levels correctly, I have the D7000 now and mine started to do that after a recent firmware update but after somebody on here gave me the advice to bring the brightness up a few clicks and calibrate it in correctly it stopped doing that completely.

So if I have a large screen that will judder more,why in gods name can't I turn judder canceller on when I want!?!? My c7000 eats this tv in picture quality, playing games like first person shooters is terrible,I want it to be smooth like the c7000.

This is really annoying me,could a firmware update enable it?

Havent seen any calibration settings shared. I am trying the settings from the cent review.

http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_10...ateThreadPopup


Calibration notes: The default Movie setting was, as usual for Samsung plasmas, quite accurate before I did any adjusting. I appreciated having the myriad settings available, however, and was able to get the TV very close to ideal using the ten-point grayscale and the best-in-class color management system. The exception was a spike at 50 in blue, which I couldn't correct because my reading fluctuated from measurement to measurement, and the adjustment was too coarse. My readings for green and cyan also fluctuated somewhat, but not as much.

--Picture menu Mode: Movie Cell Light: 20 Contrast: 95 Brightness: 45 Sharpness: 0 Color: 50 Tint: G50/R50

Screen adjustment submenu: Picture Size: Screen Fit Position: [no change]

Auto Adjustment submenu: [Grayed out]

3D submenu: N/A

Advanced settings submenu: Dynamic contrast: Off Black tone: Off Flesh tone: 0 RGB Only Mode: Off Color space: Custom White Balance: [see below] 10p White Balance: On Gamma: 0 Expert Pattern: Off xvYCC: Off Motion Lighting: Off [grayed out]

Color Space submenu: Color Space: Custom Red: Red 41, Green 2, Blue 2 Green: Red 13, Green 53, Blue 0 Blue: Red d1, Green 2, Blue 50 Yellow: Red 50, Green 50, Blue 0 Cyan: Red 12, Green 56, Blue 52 Magenta: Red 41, Green 5, Blue 48

White balance submenu: R-Offset: 27 G-Offset: 25 B-Offset: 26 R-Gain: 25 G-Gain: 27 B-Gain: 24

10p White Balance submenu: Interval 1: Red -1, Green -1, Blue -3 Interval 2: Red 0, Green +1, Blue +1 Interval 3: Red +1, Green +2, Blue +2 Interval 4: Red 0, Green 0, Blue +1 Interval 5: Red +2, Green +3, Blue +4 Interval 6: Red +1, Green +1, Blue +4 Interval 7: Red +2, Green +2, Blue +2 Interval 8: Red +1, Green +1, Blue +5 Interval 9: Red 0, Green 0, Blue +5 Interval 10: Red +3, Green 0, Blue +8

Picture options submenu Color tone: Warm2 Digital Noise Filter: Off MPEG Noise Filter: Off HDMI black level: Normal [grayed out] Film mode: Cinema Smooth

After reading a bunch of these Samsung threads, I've come to the conclusion that this is because people sensitive to buzzing will hear it on all of them - no matter how many times they exchange it. People not sensitive to buzzing will not hear it on any of them. If you're in the former group, this TV is not for you - move on and don't waste your time on exchanges.

May I ask what the "cinema smooth weirdness" is?

Is there any truth that the E8000 has more aggressive ABL than the E7000 or is this totally unsubstantiated? I don't see why that would be the case.

Also, the E8000 seems to offer "Clear Image Panel" but nobody here has been able to explain what that is. The E7000 doesn't seem to offer it. Will that make any noticeable difference in image quality between the E7000 and E8000?

Yeayh very stupid. Altough i usually like to watch movies without frame interpolation, but sometimes it is nice.

I would also like to know. I think it is possible, im sure E8000 has much more powerfull hardware inside, but i doubt that Samsung will do it. Maybe if enough people sends email?

So what do you suggest for the best Picture settings for gaming?

I highly doubt you will see that feature added to the E series. Most people don't use it because it degrades picture quality and adds lag. I'd imagine most die hard plasma owners have absolutely no interest in interpolation and may even prefer a model that doesn't even have it as an option, but I agree it would be nice to have it available (Panasonic has it on their new plasmas).

All I'm certain of is that was not the case for the D series so this blanket statement probably isn't accurate, however it could be that truly quiet sets are in the small minority. We had all the same hallmarks, even repeated unsucessful exchanges. While there were lots of buzzing reports, there were definitely some non buzzers out there and several were documented (by those that hear it) in the threads. I'm very sensitive to the noise and have heard a perfectly silent 64D8000 myself.

"If you're in the former group, this TV is not for you - move on and don't waste your time on exchanges."

I'm glad I didn't take your advise.

What I discovered with the ST50 is it forces frame interpolation when fed any 24Hz content - that has been confirmed. Even when it is turned off in the menus. So many people who hate frame interpolation will opt for a set like the Samsungs where it's not even possible to do it.

my PN60E8000 DOES NOT BUZZ also have a PN50C7000 NO BUZZ


Buzzing that occurs in a plasma TV is more noticeable in a room that is very quiet. The noise comes from electrical charges that power the pixels to create images on the screen. The buzzing sound may also come from electromagnetic interference from other items. Your TV's picture settings may cause the noise to occur too. Although the sound will always be there, you can drastically reduce hearing plasma TV buzz.


Remove sources of electromagnetic fields away from the TV. Kitchen appliances, light dimmers, fluorescent lights, mobile telephones, radios, power tools and microwave ovens are a few examples of products that should be distanced from the TV and connected to another outlet.

Set the volume at the normal setting that you prefer and then stand back 10 to 15 feet away from the TV.


Perform a sound test. Most plasma TV models have a Self Diagnostic option accessible from the Menusetting. The steps may vary from your model, but should be similar. Press "Menu" on the remote control and then press "Support." Press "Self-Diagnostic" and then press "Sound Test." Your TV's sound is not defective if you do not hear any buzzing. Refer to your owner's manual on how to perform a sound test for your specific plasma TV model.


Rearrange any cables that you find lying on the back cover of the TV. If the back cover is metal, cables that touch it may cause the TV to produce buzzing sounds.


Turn the TV off, remove all cable connections attached to it and unplug the power cord from the AC wall outlet.


Wait 30 seconds and then replug the TV.


Turn the TV on and then increase the volume to a sound level of 15 to 20.


Stand 10 to 15 feet from the TV and then repeat Step 2 to perform another sound test. If you hear buzzing, reduce your picture settings for "brightness," "contrast," and "back-light" or "cell light" settings by 50 percent. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 to perform the sound test. Otherwise, if you do not hear buzzing after you performed the sound test for the second time, the issue is not with your TV. Replace over-sized cables and avoid connecting devices to the TV that cause it to buzz.

I want an experience that is as close to film as possible; any form of frame interpolation would bother me in principle, so I'm very glad that the Samsung sets do not do it.

I'm not sure what CinemaSmooth -does- do, aside from put the TV in 96hz mode -- but I've enabled it by default when watching Blu-Rays and I have zero complaints about it.

No interpolation is for sure better than forced interpolation, but offcourse optional frame interpolation would be the best :P

People spam Samsung about this :P

Cinema Smooth is just Samsung's term for 96Hz mode. It does no frame interpolation or anything of that nature, which is definitely a great thing. It only works for 24Hz content as you probably already know, but it works great. Perfect for blu-rays and 23.976 encoded video files.

No disagreement there...every set has a "golden sample" but doing simple math the odds are not in your favor and not worth the aggravation. There are numerous reports of people hearing buzzing even after 3 sets. Even if their 4th set was buzz-free, that's at least 75% chance of getting a buzzer. In reality maybe the 4th, 5th, etc. would also buzz so the odds could be much worse. That's why I don't recommend people sensitive to buzzing go through needless exchanges and put a burden on retailers. Just try a different brand/model.

It makes the image clearer

Seriously, this must be marketing only.

I want to turn frame interpolation on when I want!!!!!! Games are **** on this thing....as is free to air tv. I'm watching a mate play a game on it right now and its angering me

Not sure why your built in tuner looks bad when viewing OTA. That should be the most pure video source you can get next to blu-ray/hdmi.

What's your friend playing and on what console? If the console is outputting 1080i or worse yet 480i then it would seem normal to look like crap.
If it's a xbox 360 or ps3 make sure it's hooked up with hdmi and set it to 1080p output.

If it's a wii then buy the component cables and set it to output 480p... but it'll still look like crap just not as bad as 480i.