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Official Samsung PNXXE7000 - PNXXE8000 owners thread - Page 48

post #1411 of 4281
Quote:
Originally Posted by turnne1 View Post

personal preference here

But..I tried those setting and it gave everything a blue hue

Warren

i am sorry when i watch movies i change color tone to warm 1 but i watch alot of baseball on mlb and the games have a great picture in my opinion
post #1412 of 4281
what Picture settings should I use for Video Gaming? The Cnet settings are Too Dark.
post #1413 of 4281
Quote:
Originally Posted by turnne1 View Post

personal preference here

But..I tried those setting and it gave everything a blue hue

Warren


Hi Warren i have a PN60E8000 Is that what you have i do agree that it is a little on the blue side, but like you said it is personal preference. i prefer a cooler look to the picture then a warmer look i find it a more natural looking especially viewing at night
but it is personal preference.
post #1414 of 4281
Quote:
Originally Posted by turnne1 View Post

personal preference here

But..I tried those setting and it gave everything a blue hue

Warren

That is a full calibration copied from cnet. You cannot expect good results from using measured white balance and color calibrations of other sets, it simply doesn't work because each TV is unique. You are probably messing up your grayscale - default movie mode is going to be more accurate (and moving from warm 2 to 1 will INCREASE the blue tone, warm 2 is the closest to a d65 calibration). Additionally, using "custom" color with the default settings posted isn't advisable, I'd use native. You can use those settings, omitting white balance, 10pt and custom color, as a starting point. I would suggest you tweak further with a real test disc (AVS HD 709 is FREE) under your typical viewing conditions, that's the only way to get good results. Get the brightness, cell and contrast where you like it, then use the test disc to tweak the brightness setting for proper blacks. Finally, use the "blue only" mode to set color and tint. Set sharpness as low as you think looks good (lower is, technically, better). Full instructions are here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

Remember, there is no such thing as personal preference if you are making use of full calibrations. They are, by definition, based on a standard so have absolutely nothing to do with how you think it should look. If you want to adjust your picture to your preference, that's fine, but it has not been calibrated in the true sense of the word. If you want to do a real calibration yourself, it is possible with a basic colorimeter and some homework.
post #1415 of 4281
here is a question a little off topic but does anyone know when HBO GO APP be on these E series TV's
post #1416 of 4281
Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View Post

That is a full calibration copied from cnet. You cannot expect good results from using measured white balance and color calibrations of other sets, it simply doesn't work because each TV is unique. You are probably messing up your grayscale - default movie mode is going to be more accurate (and moving from warm 2 to 1 will INCREASE the blue tone, warm 2 is the closest to a d65 calibration). Additionally, using "custom" color with the default settings posted isn't advisable, I'd use native. You can use those settings, omitting white balance, 10pt and custom color, as a starting point. I would suggest you tweak further with a real test disc (AVS HD 709 is FREE) under your typical viewing conditions, that's the only way to get good results. Get the brightness, cell and contrast where you like it, then use the test disc to tweak the brightness setting for proper blacks. Finally, use the "blue only" mode to set color and tint. Set sharpness as low as you think looks good (lower is, technically, better). Full instructions are here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

Remember, there is no such thing as personal preference if you are making use of full calibrations. They are, by definition, based on a standard so have absolutely nothing to do with how you think it should look. If you want to adjust your picture to your preference, that's fine, but it has not been calibrated in the true sense of the word.

I totally agree and understand i changed to what you advised i did tweak further with H D E HD BASIC as that is the disk i have please let me know what you think about D V E HD BASICS blu-ray disk
post #1417 of 4281
If you guys are interested in the process of DIY calibration on Samsung plasmas, a very concise guide was written by LarryInRI which should work just fine for the E series. You can buy a colorimeter for $100-200 and use ColorHCFR freeware with a laptop to dial in your white balance in under 30 minutes with a little practice:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post21785199

Probably won't get you to a pro level of calibration (unless you're very persistant and thorough), but it's a lot cheaper and you can touch it up yourself every few hundred hours for free.
post #1418 of 4281
Guys I have a few concerns today with my E8000 after some issues have made themselves known. I'd like to hear any comments anyone might have regarding these:

1) I've already mentioned the way the screen becomes choppy when changing channels sometimes. Well, twice today, the screen totally froze while I was watching Cinemax, for about 3-5 seconds each time, and then when it unfroze the screen became all choppy, like stop-motion, for close to 2 minutes before normal motion returned. This is starting to make me nervous. My girlfriend and I both watched it happen both times. I'll mention that we have a FIOS DVR - could the box be acting stupid? Again, this never happened on the D7000 or the ST50.

2) We decided to watch a couple movies today on Cinemax with the volume up, since usually the volume has been off as I was just breaking in the set. The audio pops and crackles regularly, whenever anything loud happens - music, sound effects, explosions, yelling, etc. - the tv speakers crackle and pop loudly.

3) Along that same line, the volume seems very poor compared to the D7000 - We had to crank the volume up to 80-90 (out of 100) to hear the set properly over the air conditioner. With the same air conditioner running while using the D7000 up until last month, we never had to turn the volume up anywhere near that loud - usually 45 or 50 was enough. Even at 90 it sounds like it could stand to be a bit louder. We both agree that the volume is much much quieter than the D7000, and that's a problem for us - we can't use the receiver in the evenings or at night because of neighbors. Again, with the D7000 or the ST50, sound level was not an issue. Could there be something wrong with the speakers? I've checked my audio on my cable box and it's set (as always) to fixed volume, no volume compression.

4) For only the second time since I've owned the set, I brought up the tv menu tonight to check the audio settings to see if there was something in there I could adjust to improve the volume (there didn't seem to be). After about a minute in the menus, the entire menu screen locked up - the audio animated icon was still animated, but I couldn't exit out of the menu system, it was totally frozen. I had to turn off the tv and restart it. Not cool. That never happened once on the D7000.

I'm starting to feel nervous a bit here. I love this tv and the picture quality is amazing. But since all of these things happened today, it makes me suspicious that this set needs some firmware tweaks. I have no idea what to do about the speaker volume - it's half as loud as the D7000 was.
post #1419 of 4281
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Guys I have a few concerns today with my E8000 after some issues have made themselves known. I'd like to hear any comments anyone might have regarding these:

1) I've already mentioned the way the screen becomes choppy when changing channels sometimes. Well, twice today, the screen totally froze while I was watching Cinemax, for about 3-5 seconds each time, and then when it unfroze the screen became all choppy, like stop-motion, for close to 2 minutes before normal motion returned. This is starting to make me nervous. My girlfriend and I both watched it happen both times. I'll mention that we have a FIOS DVR - could the box be acting stupid? Again, this never happened on the D7000 or the ST50.

2) We decided to watch a couple movies today on Cinemax with the volume up, since usually the volume has been off as I was just breaking in the set. The audio pops and crackles regularly, whenever anything loud happens - music, sound effects, explosions, yelling, etc. - the tv speakers crackle and pop loudly.

3) Along that same line, the volume seems very poor compared to the D7000 - We had to crank the volume up to 80-90 (out of 100) to hear the set properly over the air conditioner. With the same air conditioner running while using the D7000 up until last month, we never had to turn the volume up anywhere near that loud - usually 45 or 50 was enough. Even at 90 it sounds like it could stand to be a bit louder. We both agree that the volume is much much quieter than the D7000, and that's a problem for us - we can't use the receiver in the evenings or at night because of neighbors. Again, with the D7000 or the ST50, sound level was not an issue. Could there be something wrong with the speakers? I've checked my audio on my cable box and it's set (as always) to fixed volume, no volume compression.

4) For only the second time since I've owned the set, I brought up the tv menu tonight to check the audio settings to see if there was something in there I could adjust to improve the volume (there didn't seem to be). After about a minute in the menus, the entire menu screen locked up - the audio animated icon was still animated, but I couldn't exit out of the menu system, it was totally frozen. I had to turn off the tv and restart it. Not cool. That never happened once on the D7000.

I'm starting to feel nervous a bit here. I love this tv and the picture quality is amazing. But since all of these things happened today, it makes me suspicious that this set needs some firmware tweaks. I have no idea what to do about the speaker volume - it's half as loud as the D7000 was.

For #1: That seems likely to be the set-top box or the handshaking of the HDMI cable. For giggles, try a non-HDMI connection method and see if the problem goes away (to at least rule out the HDMI cable itself).

For #2 and #3: I'll check mine, but the volume seemed to reach uncomfortably loud levels for the few minutes I used it initially. I route everything through my receiver, but I'll try a Netflix movie through the TV to see if I see any problems.

For #4: I haven't had any issues with the menus, and I've used them fairly extensively. I did have a freeze/reboot once when opening Netflix, but never again after that one time.

I'll check the audio stuff out and let you know.
post #1420 of 4281
I checked my TV regarding the volume issue you mentioned; the TV gets uncomfortably loud at a volume level of 100. It isn't anything compared to my receiver, of course, but for tiny little TV speakers its surprisingly loud.

I watched the first 10 minutes of A-Team through Netflix from SmartHub using the TVs speakers (a movie with lots of loud noises and explosions and such) and didn't hear any breakup, distortion, pops, or other oddness.

Not very helpful, I know. I'm actually a little surprised the sound was as good as it was. All things considered, the speakers in a TV, especially a thin TV, are usually total garbage. These aren't great, but they're functional and not really bad at all.

If you're experiencing problems, its most likely the case that you've simply got a defective TV or your source device is having trouble communicating with yout TV. The HDMI issue you mentioned could be related. Are you playing your movie/audio through a source device, or directly from SmartHub? If it isn't SmartHub that you're using, try it and see if you have the same issues.
post #1421 of 4281
sounds like your box i reckon to i some times have similiar problem with tivo when there is a storm

the other thing i would suggest you try is the ol flicking everything off at the power source and back on again see if that sorts any of the issues out

very technical advice NOT
post #1422 of 4281
Compared to the es7500, the e8000 speaker sounded weaker.
Right now it's going thru a receiver so not a big deal.
post #1423 of 4281
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Lol, indeed it does.

I wasn't aware that the cable box handshakes with the set between each channel change though. I thought that was only when you switched sources?

That's not my impression. I know for sure that any change in resolution will trigger a handshake. It's only an assumption that changing from one HD channel to another one will too. If it looks like a duck, and it walks like a duck, it will probably quack like a duck.

Quote:


Very odd because my D7000 and the ST50 never did this, with all the same equipment.

It's not odd given the nature of the copy protection measures that the media industry is using. Each unique HDMI chain, which includes everything in it, from end to end, can behave differently as far as handshake problems are concerned. I think you might have used similar handshake logic when you owned the ST50. It didn't work then and it doesn't work now.

Handshake problems are a moving target that's constantly changing. It almost seems that the media providers want it that way.
post #1424 of 4281
It does almost seem like that, doesn't it?

I find it quite a coincidence though that the cable box never did this once in almost a year with the D7000, and not once with the 3 weeks I had the ST50, but just a week later, on the first day I get the E8000, it starts happening. It makes sense to me to suspect the E8000 since it is the only thing that has changed in my setup, and the only 1 out of 3 tvs (4 if you count my old CRT) that had this issue. Perhaps, if the cable box is glitching, maybe this tv is more sensitive and has a harder time recovering than the other tvs? Does that sound like a possibility?

As far as the volume, I briefly switched around a few network channels, but I'm still breaking in the set so I didn't want to leave any logos on the screen. The volume does seem to be louder on some network channels/cable channels than Cinemax. With Cinemax the volume really needs to be up between 70-90 to hear what people are saying with my fan or air conditioner on. On Network channels, 50-60 seems to work. My guess is maybe Cinemax airs their films with a greater dynamic range, like with DVDs and blu-rays, so the volume can seem soft during dialoge? Also, the crackling during Cinemax movies occurs even when the volume is very low, around 50 or so, so even when the volume isn't up to 90, it still crackles even at 50 when loud things happen in films.

I've noticed the tv doesn't always crackle. Just hopping around the network channels for a couple minutes, I noticed the speakers didn't crackle or pop during some pretty loud scenes (like loud audiences and commercials). So I wonder if certain types of sounds or certain frequencies give the speakers a hard time? I was watching Jurassic Park 2:Lost World last night for a bit on Cinemax and the tv was crackling like nuts even when the tv was at 50. Yet right now Ant Bully is on and it's got some pretty loud stuff going on and there's no crackling or popping.
post #1425 of 4281
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I find it quite a coincidence that the cable box never did this once in almost a year with the D7000, and not once with the 3 weeks I had the ST50, but just a week later, on the first day I get the E8000, it starts happening. I find it hard to believe it's the box when it happens on the very first day of the new tv but never once before it. It makes sense to suspect the E8000 since it is the only thing that has changed in my setup, and the only 1 out of 3 tvs (4 if you count my old CRT) that had this issue.

As far as the volume, I briefly switched around a few network channels, but I'm still breaking in the set so I didn't want to leave any logos on the screen. The volume does seem to be louder on some network channels than on Cinemax. With Cinemax the volume really needs to be up between 70-90 to hear what people are saying. The E8000 never gets uncomfortably loud to me - though 90 is more than I need for network channels. On Network channels, 50-70 seems to work. The tv is definitely not as loud as the D7000, which seems like a step in the wrong direction. Also, the crackling during Cinemax movies occurs even when the volume is very low, around 50 or so, so even when the volume isn't up to 90, it still crackles even at 50 when loud things happen in the film. Certainly this crackling and popping of the speakers should not be considered normal at only 50 volume, especially when 50 is so low? Again, I found the speakers in the D7000 plenty adequate, and I was pretty impressed with the ST50's speakers. I didn't have to turn the ST50 anywhere close to the max volume to fill the room with sound.

The sound distortion shouldn't be considered normal at any volume. I don't think anyone is saying that it should be.

You need to eliminate some variables from your setup to identify the problem. First, eliminate the HDMI cable -and- the set-top-box by using SmartHub to play some content. If you still have problems, then you know right there its the TV and you'll need something done. If the problems aren't happening after that test, connect your set-top-box via a method other than HDMI (to eliminate handshaking). If the problem stops at that point, you know it was the cable. If not, use a source other than the set-top-box (like a Blu-Ray player) and see if the problem goes away. If it does, you know the problem is the set-top-box.

All we can really say is that, over the course of this entire thread, your the only one to experience these problems so its either a bad TV, a bad cable, or a bad set-top-box. Until you do the troubleshooting, you won't know which and there isn't much point in speculating.

EDIT: I quoted the wrong post in my reply. Fixed.
post #1426 of 4281
"The E8000 appears to have more accurate color tones, and again, I haven't even made any adjustments yet. Out of the box, with brightness/contrast at 50% in movie mode, and the colors already appear more promising to me than the ST50. It definitely needs some adjusting, but I think I'll be happier with the flesh tones in the E8000."

To play devils advocate, Samsungs have more accurate colors out of the box but once the Panasonics are calibrated they do have very accurate colors.

I personally think Samsung has a clear advantage in clarity and sharpness while still maintaining natural and rich colors. This really comes into play with STD content and since I personally find that most worthwhile content still comes from less than perfect sources this advantage shouldn't be taken lightly.

In the review of the E8000 cnet's David Katzmaier acknowledges its superb video processing but he didn't seem to give much weight to it given his lovefest for the ST50.
post #1427 of 4281
Deria, thanks for the replies. In a few more days when I'm done breaking in the set I'll try out some smarthub content and see what happens. I altered a bit of my comment I guess while you were responding to me, I added a bit more info.

As you said the sound distortions shouldn't be happening regardless of volume, certainly not at low volume. It hasn't crackled once on me yet this morning but it did all during Jurassic Park last night, and previously on some other material.
post #1428 of 4281
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I've noticed something odd while switching through my Cinemax channels during my break-in period. Sometimes, when I switch to another channel, the motion is extremely choppy, almost like stop-motion for several seconds - very stuttery - sometimes up to 10 or more seconds, before it finally becomes normal. It only happens randomly, and not always on the same Cinemax channels. Sometimes it will happen on 1 channel, but then when I leave and come back, it doesn't do it again. It's totally random it seems. But it happens fairly regularly. The motion is otherwise spectacular. But that first few seconds after tuning into a channel, sometimes it happens. My D7000 never did this even once, and neither did the ST50.

My provider is Verizon FIOS. Any idea what could be causing this? Has anybody else noticed? My girlfriend noticed it earlier today, and it's very noticeable when it happens.

I experience something similar to this, but it occurs when I use Rewind/FF functionality on my DVR. Sometimes it gets so bad that the signal is lost entirely. I then turn the TV off and back on again and that seems to do the trick . . . until I try to rewind/FF again.
post #1429 of 4281
Quote:
Originally Posted by bargervais View Post

Hi Warren i have a PN60E8000 Is that what you have i do agree that it is a little on the blue side, but like you said it is personal preference. i prefer a cooler look to the picture then a warmer look i find it a more natural looking especially viewing at night
but it is personal preference.

I have a 64E8000
I actually prefer the out of the box.."Movie" mode to those CNET setting

which is interesting because I also have a 58C8000...and the CNET setting for that set look great to me

go figure ..I guess

Warren
post #1430 of 4281
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I find it quite a coincidence though that the cable box never did this once in almost a year with the D7000, and not once with the 3 weeks I had the ST50, but just a week later, on the first day I get the E8000, it starts happening. It makes sense to me to suspect the E8000 since it is the only thing that has changed in my setup, and the only 1 out of 3 tvs (4 if you count my old CRT) that had this issue. Perhaps, if the cable box is glitching, maybe this tv is more sensitive and has a harder time recovering than the other tvs? Does that sound like a possibility?

If your E8000 has new handshake requirements that the "D" model didn't have, that may cause the E8000 to force additional handshakes due to your HDMI cables or the other components in the HDMI chain. Any time a HDMI cable has been disconnected and then reconnected there is the possibility that the connection is no longer solid. That can also cause repeated handshake problems.

I just checked our setup. Going from HD to SD channels the the screen goes black with a little bit of scrambled white lines. Going the other way, from SD to HD, takes a little longer. Going from one HD channel to another HD channel is clean. For what it's worth, our setup doesn't share any of your components, and we have never experienced handshake problems.

Systematically following the diagnostic advice you've been getting is probably the best you can do.
post #1431 of 4281
Has anyone tried the Panasonic glasses with the E series?
post #1432 of 4281
I'll mention that after thinking back to the ST50, I do remember a few times the tv speakers crackled and popped just like the E8000 did last night when Jurassic Park 2 was on. So I wonder if it really is just certain frequencies don't do well on these tiny speakers? Or is the cable box outputting the volume too high? It's set to fixed volume like it always is.

After experimenting a bit more with sound volume, my girlfriend agrees that the volume is definitely noticeably lower than the ST50 and the D7000. I noticed there is a sound mode called "amplify" in the tv menu. Has anybody had any experience with this mode? Turning it on definitely increases the volume a bit but I'm wondering if there's any chance that could damage the speakers if something loud happens? Also I noticed "amplify" disables all the other sound options (virtual surround, etc.).
post #1433 of 4281
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I'll mention that after thinking back to the ST50, I do remember a few times the tv speakers crackled and popped just like the E8000 did last night when Jurassic Park 2 was on. So I wonder if it really is just certain frequencies don't do well on these tiny speakers? Or is the cable box outputting the volume too high? It's set to fixed volume like it always is.

After experimenting a bit more with sound volume, my girlfriend agrees that the volume is definitely noticeably lower than the ST50 and the D7000. I noticed there is a sound mode called "amplify" in the tv menu. Has anybody had any experience with this mode? Turning it on definitely increases the volume a bit but I'm wondering if there's any chance that could damage the speakers if something loud happens? Also I noticed "amplify" disables all the other sound options (virtual surround, etc.).

Try the troubleshooting before trying anything else. Treating the symptoms of a problem instead of the root cause isn't going to lead to a happy solution.
post #1434 of 4281
TV just froze again while my girlfriend was watching Grease on Cinemax. This time it didn't stutter afterwards though.
post #1435 of 4281
Quote:
Originally Posted by deria View Post

Try the troubleshooting before trying anything else. Treating the symptoms of a problem instead of the root cause isn't going to lead to a happy solution.

Well it will be a few more days before I can start troubleshooting because I'm still working on breaking in the set. I plan to swap out the FIOS box as well to eliminate that as a possibility. But nothing will change the fact that the volume on this set is lower than the ST50 and the D7000. That can't be blamed on HDMI cables or the FIOS box - the tv just has lower volume output.
post #1436 of 4281
Well, since I haven't heard either of the other two I obviously can't comment on that. All I can really say is that I didn't find the TV to be quiet at all. I'd say resolve your other issues before drawing any real conclusions about anything. Broken = broken.

As for breaking in the TV - not sure why one precludes the other. The troubleshooting steps outlined previously shouldn't take more than 15 minutes to do. All you accomplish by waiting is wasting your time (ie: if you need a replacement TV, you'll need to break that one in too.)
post #1437 of 4281
I want to be careful with logos and menu screens on the set while breaking it in. If I start playing with menus and start watching smarthub stuff with logos then I'm going against the purpose of watching only Cinemax with 16:9/no logos. I can't get Cinemax without using the FIOS box. And I can't do a proper assessment of freezing/volume issues with just a few minutes of watching. The tv can go for hours before freezing. So I want to wait until break-in is over so I can take my time and experiment. Hopefully I won't end up wasting my time breaking it in. My gut feeling about the volume is there's nothing wrong with the speakers other them being less loud than last year. Why else would they include "amplify" this year as a choice when it wasn't there last year?

The freezing has me worried more, but for that I'll have to experiment with other channels/content without the FIOS box connected.
post #1438 of 4281
Quote:
Originally Posted by ferl View Post

Has anyone tried the Panasonic glasses with the E series?

Thought I'd be able to answer that. Unfortunately the only size I can find is M. I would rather have an L, at 80 bucks a pop. T
post #1439 of 4281
Can you imagine buying a set of 4 of those for a family @ $60-$80 each. Yikes. Thankfully Samsung is much more sane with their pricing for glasses.
post #1440 of 4281
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Can you imagine buying a set of 4 of those for a family @ $60-$80 each. Yikes. Thankfully Samsung is much more sane with their pricing for glasses.

Yes. I bought 4 for the C series at $150 a pop. I want a pair that blocks peripheral light. CNET seems to like the Panasonics and they are supposed to work with the E series.
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